Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2899
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:29 Sep 2005 02:16:17 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Hard start problem
From: Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>

2. Re: LED Rear Light Replacment...
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

3. Re: Need some Air
From: Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>

4. Re: ebay buyer protection
From: "delorean6859" <tmadsop_at_dml_comcast.net>

5. Re: ebay buyer protection
From: "delorean6859" <tmadsop_at_dml_comcast.net>

6. Re: LED Rear Light Replacment...
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

7. Re: Shift Computer
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

8. Re: More good press for DeLorean's and their owners
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

9. Re: ebay buyer protection
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

10. Re: Brake Caliper Seperation
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

11. Re: Turn Signal/Clock
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

12. CarFax's Available!
From: "brandelorean" <brandelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Re: LED Rear Light Replacment...
From: "Marty Galbreath" <marty_at_dml_mediamerge.com>

14. Re: Fanzilla Clones
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

15. Re: Re: Shift Computer
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

16. RE: "Mock" DeLorean needed
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>

17. Re: LED Rear Light Replacment...
From: Qumefox <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>

18. Re: DeLorean FAQ Fact Sheet - Update
From: "Alistair McCann" <pilot25dmc_at_dml_o2.co.uk>

19. Re: ebay buyer protection
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

20. Re: LED Center Console Burnout
From: Qumefox <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>

21. Water pump squeaking. How long have I got?
From: Jason Ferrara <jason_at_dml_discordia.org>

22. RE: Brake Caliper Seperation
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

23. Re: "Mock" DeLorean needed
From: "Michael C. Babb" <mcbabb_at_dml_gmail.com>

24. Re: Water Leaks...again. Any advice/ideas?
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

25. Re: Fanzilla Clones
From: "Shain Brannan" <dsmguy_at_dml_ptd.net>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 12:54:08 -0700
From: Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Hard start problem

Jeremiah,
Don't worry, I have no intention of replacing expensive fuel components 
without testing them first. I wanted to see what possible causes were to 
help with my troubleshooting this. After reading a few posts, I went over 
the vacuum connections and checked the power connection on the warm-up 
regulator. While I cleaned the power connector in the past, I didn't do a 
good job because upon closer inspection the connections were very corroded. 
Now the car cold starts perfectly! I won't know if it's completely fixed 
until the I let the car sit for a few more days and try starting it again.

However, my hot start is still not working too well. So I've ordered the 
Bosch fuel tester. I'm curious as to what it's going to show. I've already 
replaced all the major components that typically cause hot starts issues 
(including the O-rings in the PPR). If the fuel pressures check out, it 
looks like I may need to get the mixture slightly adjusted.

Thanks for the tips,
Chris
VIN 4099

At 11:41 PM 9/25/2005 -0700, you wrote:

>>Ok.  This is where owning the Bosch K-Jetronic Fuel
>>Pressure System and a dwellmeter comes in VERY handy.
>>One owner recently said (paraphrased) - "I don't know
>>why people bend big money on random parts, but won't
>>spend $25.99 on a dwellmeter, and $59.99 on the Bosch
>>Fuel Pressure Gauges".  I completely agree on this.  I
>>used to throw hundred of dollars at random parts, but
>>wouldn't take the time to buy those two tools.  Heh,
>>how times have changed now....






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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 20:38:49 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: LED Rear Light Replacment...

Putting a resistor in series with a device will not make it draw more 
current. It will limit the voltage present on the device, making it 
last longer and perhaps a bit dimmer.

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Marty Galbreath" <marty_at_dml_m...> wrote:

>> No, I suppose you could use a resistor, as I did with my turn 

signal 

>> LEDS, but it seems to negate a lot of the current savings of the 
>> leds in the first place. I am sending you my relay scheme off list, 
>> as I did for others who were interested.
>> 
>> Marty Galbreath
>> #3765
>>  
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_g...> 
>> wrote:
>
>>> > 
>>> > ok this post is a week old, but I just returned from my vacations.
>>> > 
>>> > Marty - did you try to use a resistor instead of the relay ?
>>> > I mean a let's say 470 Ohm to 1k resistor in parallel to the 
>
>> diodes ?
>
>>> > 
>>> > Just a suggestion because it is easier to install and much 

smaller.

>>> > 
>>> > Elvis








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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 15:12:57 -0500
From: Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Need some Air

Japeth,

Your intake should be clean.  There is supposed to be a rubber o-ring that 
goes between the air cleaner assembly and the intake, and I almost always 
lose it, so make sure you have it.  I lube that area with silicone grease 
also.  If this area is sealed, then the filter is the wrong type or is 
incorrectly installed; the upper and lower halves of the assembly should 
clamp down on the air filter edge.

The "heat stove" is designed to warm the intake air when the engine is 
cold, to help the car warm up.  It is only important during the first few 
minutes of cold operation, and frankly the ambient temperature here in 
Texas is plenty warm about 10 months a year.  If the valve fails, however, 
it can restrict the intake or heat it indefinitely, yuk.

I believe the hose from the oil cap is to create a slightly negative 
pressure in the top-end, pulling out the small amount of exhaust gasses 
that sneak past the piston rings.  If the valve covers were completely 
sealed, they'd eventually pop or leak.  Getting the gasses out keeps them 
from getting churned-up into the oil.

The intake ductwork is in pieces, but I'm not sure what it takes to get it 
out of the pontoon.  I remember needing to adjust it, but can't remember 
how.  Here's a diagram:

http://www.usadmc.com/dmcstore/ViewPage.asp?PageID=14

Good luck,

Gus Schlachter
VIN #4695
Austin, Texas




>> Hello everybody,
>> 
>> In the process of replacing my fuel injectors I noticed that the very 
>> restrictive AIR CLEANER was no longer CLEANING AIR.  Even after 
>> replacing the filter not more than a month ago there as a very nice 
>> layer of greasy dirt all over the top of the air flap(can't remember 
>> what it's called)  which means that what ever wants to get into the 
>> engine is.
>> 
>> I'm making it a project this Saturday to work out a less restictive 
>> air cleaner whilst making it less expensive than John Hervey's stuff. 
>> 
>> First question:  How important is the metal heat stove hose that comes 
>> off of the air intake?  I have seen cars with and without it that run 
>> fine.
>> 
>> Second question: How important is the hose that comes off the oil cap 
>> to the air breather?
>> 
>> Third question:  Is the section of the intake that comes out of the 
>> pontoon all one piece or is it sectional and able to be removed?
>> 
>> By the way after replacing my injectors I have to hesitation, my 
>> emissions dropped like a rock and no more sparatic idling in case 
>> anyone is interested. 
>> 
>> I am pretty much just thinking of dumping all the stock intake stuff 
>> and just put in a free flowing hose with a cone K&N filter on it and 
>> just hook that directly up to the scoop on the outside.  If anyone has 
>> any other ideas or input feel free to jet in your 2 cents cuz I'm open 
>> for improvement.
>> 
>> Thanks again,
>> 
>> Japheth Deaux 
>> 
>> VIN:1223



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 21:08:33 -0000
From: "delorean6859" <tmadsop_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: ebay buyer protection

Jake,
There is such a thing as HONESTY and INTEGRITY.  When someone (who is
also a mechanic) describes a vehicle as "Excellent" and "Needs
Nothing", I do feel there is a certain amount of credence that should
be placed in that statement.  

As for why I didn't go to inspect the car, as in my previous post I
outlined that.  I've bought cars on ebay before and expect a certain
amount of work that needs to be done on a vehicle, but never this bad.

So when someone comes on the forum when I am trying to help other
people out by outlining a program, forgive me when I take a little
offense to someone who does not have full knowledge of my situation
tells me I didn't deserve to receive compensation for this. 

Nate
(Name placed on all of my previous posts)






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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 21:20:35 -0000
From: "delorean6859" <tmadsop_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: ebay buyer protection

By the way, when the seller takes material and overt steps to conceal
damage to a car that can be potentially life threatening, that crosses
into criminality.  This is a clear case of criminal fraud as defined
by Maryland law and vehicle tampering.  Not something you would expect
from a mechanic selling a car.  Furthermore, he IS a member of the
Delorean family and THIS forum (or was anyway)!

Nate

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_s...> wrote:

>> 
>> 
>> delorean6859,
>> 
>> This response will seem harsh, but please don't read it in a

negative tone. 

>> It sucks that this guy on Ebay took you for a ride on this car, but 
>> honestly, I'm surprised the insurance program is giving anything.  The 
>> bottom line is, you bought a 24-year-old glorified prototype without

doing 

>> your homework first, and without actually seeing the car.  --Big

mistake! 

>>





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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 22:44:44 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: LED Rear Light Replacment...

The problem is that LEDs have a considerably higher resistance than 
bulbs, so you need to put a load resistor in parallel with the LED, 
which will dissipate the power the bulb did before, so as far as energy 
consumption goes, Marty's spot on. It's all just to force the flasher 
relay to "see" the same current draw. Unfortunately the replacement 
flasher units for LEDs don't work on the DeLorean

Martin

Dave Swingle wrote:


>>Putting a resistor in series with a device will not make it draw more 
>>current. It will limit the voltage present on the device, making it 
>>last longer and perhaps a bit dimmer.
>>
>>Dave Swingle
>>
>>  
>>







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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 21:58:21 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Shift Computer

Look on 

http://www.dmcnews.com/techmain.htm

under "transmission" - 2 articles. Or mail it to Jake K and he'll 
rebuild it for about a million dollars. 

Don't keep driving it too much that way (right Ken?).

Dave Swingle


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...> 
wrote:

>> Does anyone have the instructions on how to rebuild the shift 

computer?

>> Mine is just toasted, it is popping fuses, and shifting from 2nd to 

3rd and 

>> back and forth on the highway....
>> 
>> It is so bad now, I have to pull the fuse on the highway to stay in 

3rd, 

>> then put it back in at a stop light....this is crap.
>> - VB







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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 22:06:00 -0000
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: More good press for DeLorean's and their owners

 More good press for DeLorean's and their owners
 
I remember seeing it advertised back then in 1989 in Hemmings,the
 P.O. 
was asking somewhere in the mid/upper Thirties K's.(when a regular 
issue "new" D (there were "some" untitled D's still around)were 
15K.
 I noticed in the picture that people had their hands on the
 panels,(or  it seems that way)
 Just a word of caution: That gold plating is Very fragile(if you 
notice 
even at the factory,they had to wear special cotton gloves,and 
special 'lab coats' and nobody was allowed near the car for fear of 
rubbing off the 24K plating(they also had a guard protecting it 
24/7)
 From what I understand the 24k cars cannot be driven at high speed
(or 
even in windy conditions)for fear of "sandblasting" parts of the 
24k 
off.(I got this info from one of the most knowledgeable people in 
the Delorean field,(you deal with him everyday)
>From the history I have been made aware of, the panels used on the 
last VIN were not gold plated by Consolidated. DMC was required as 
part of the AmEx deal to have a spare set of panels on hand in case 
one of the owners of the original gold cars needed a replacement 
panel (due to a fender-bender or whatever). When the factory closed 
down operations, the set of extra spare gold panels were used to 
clad the last car,which it so rightly deserved,(and the right thing 
to do with the panels)
instead of the 24K panels being sold
possibly piecemeal going to collectors around the globe, hanging in 
dens/bars
Kinda ;like what is happening with a lot of the orignal  Delorean 
Documents.
A thought came to mind I wonder IF they never went onto  the last D,--
IF DMCH would have gotten them in the deal of buying the inventory.
Or if Kapac would have kept those,History will NEVER know. 
A true piece of history to have either way,
and a big(HUGE) kick in the ass,from all the "d" lovers
to that IDIOT that Knife scratched the finish on the 24K car.
 CBL  







--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Michael Babb <mcbabb_at_dml_g...> wrote:

>> Those links didn't work for me but these did:
>> 
>> http://www.times-

news.com/articles/2005/09/26/sections/regional_news/general/news90.txt

>> 
>> http://tinyurl.com/a7tmz
>> 
>> Michael
>> 
>> 
>> James Espey wrote:
>> 
>
>>> >DeLorean, couple heading to Ireland, with all expenses paid
>>> >Club picking up tab for trip
>>> >  
>>> >







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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 22:50:39 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: ebay buyer protection

An excellent source of information regarding legal issues surrounding
collector cars is the Legal Files column in Sports Car Market.  The 
stories there will definitely change they way you go about buying 
or selling a used car.

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "delorean6859" <tmadsop_at_dml_comcast.net>: -------------- 



>> Jake, 
>> There is such a thing as HONESTY and INTEGRITY. When someone (who is 
>> also a mechanic) describes a vehicle as "Excellent" and "Needs 
>> Nothing", I do feel there is a certain amount of credence that should 
>> be placed in that statement. 
>> 
>> As for why I didn't go to inspect the car, as in my previous post I 
>> outlined that. I've bought cars on ebay before and expect a certain 
>> amount of work that needs to be done on a vehicle, but never this bad. 
>> 
>> So when someone comes on the forum when I am trying to help other 
>> people out by outlining a program, forgive me when I take a little 
>> offense to someone who does not have full knowledge of my situation 
>> tells me I didn't deserve to receive compensation for this. 
>> 
>> Nate 
>> (Name placed on all of my previous posts) 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 22:44:13 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Brake Caliper Seperation

Because the alignment between the caliper halves is critical
to proper fluid flow and sealing.  If you put them together
wrong, they may leak and not work properly, or be impossible
to bleed.

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "cupsdmc" <cupsdmc_at_dml_yahoo.com>: -------------- 



>> I just rebuilt one of my calipers last night. I put in new pistons and 
>> seals. In reading my shop manual it says "DO NOT SEPERATE THE TWO 
>> HALVES OF THE CALIPER" It doesn't say why. I did seperate the two 
>> halves of the caliper by removing the 4 bolts with no problem what so 
>> ever. I even put it back together with no problems. 
>> 
>> Does anyone know why the caliper should not be seperated? 
>> 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 22:57:36 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: Turn Signal/Clock

Hi Gang - Relative to this thread on turn signal light behavior, I 
just had an interesting situation with Winged1.  I started getting 
the "fast flash" on the right hand turn indicator, which suggested 
that one of the bulbs had gone bad, or one of the sockets had 
developed either corrosion or a short circuit.  (As an aside, I have 
both the front and rear side markers flashing with my turn signals)  
Looking at the lights from the outside, the issue was with the right 
front light, so I took it apart to examine the bulb, etc.  The bulb 
appeared to be good, with no apparent issues with the filaments.  The 
socket tested good with a test light.  Hmmmm.  I applied bench power 
to the bulb, and the brighter filament was bad, even though the 
filament looked visually okay.  Another aside - I had installed 
generic bulbs many years ago.  In looking at the OEM replacement 
bulbs that we have in our inventory at DPNW, the bulbs originally 
supplied with the DeLorean are quite different in the appearance of 
the contacts, and are much higher quality.  I was very surprised to 
see the differences.  Bottom line - NEVER assume a light bulb is 
good, even if it looks good with a visual inspection.  Always test if 
in doubt.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com    


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_o...> 
wrote:

>> If the flashers are not blinking right that is they way they tell 

you

>> either you have a bulb out or maybe one of them is the wrong type.
>> Pull ALL the bulbs on the side that is flashing fast and clean and
>> inspect them. Be very careful that you install them correctly. The
>> large ones have 2 pins. One is lower than the other so you must
>> install it correctly to have the right filiment on the stop/turn
>> circuit. You could also have a grounding problem. Make sure all 

ground connections are clean and tight.








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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 18:52:09 -0000
From: "brandelorean" <brandelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: CarFax's Available!

Hey Guys,

I recently got an unlimited carfax report account for the month to 
check on a bunch of cars I was looking into.  Anyways, if anyone needs 
a CarFax on a car they're looking at, let me know as I'll pull a 
report for you.

Email me at Brandelorean(at)yahoo.com if you'd like a CarFax, doesn't 
have to be a DeLorean...just figure I'd put this "UNLIMITED" account 
to use and get all its worth out of it  :) 

Thanks,

Brandon
Vin 3323







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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 23:20:40 -0000
From: "Marty Galbreath" <marty_at_dml_mediamerge.com>
Subject: Re: LED Rear Light Replacment...

Err, Dave,  Elvis said parallel, not series. More current will be 
drawn, depending on the resistor value.

Marty




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:

>> Putting a resistor in series with a device will not make it draw 

more 

>> current. It will limit the voltage present on the device, making 

it 

>> last longer and perhaps a bit dimmer.
>> 
>> Dave Swingle
>> 
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Marty Galbreath" <marty_at_dml_m...> 

wrote:

>>> > No, I suppose you could use a resistor, as I did with my turn 
>
>> signal 
>
>>> > LEDS, but it seems to negate a lot of the current savings of the 
>>> > leds in the first place. I am sending you my relay scheme off 

list, 

>>> > as I did for others who were interested.
>>> > 
>>> > Marty Galbreath
>>> > #3765
>>> >  
>>> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Elvis Nocita" 

<elvisnocita_at_dml_g...> 

>>> > wrote:
>>
>>>> > > 
>>>> > > ok this post is a week old, but I just returned from my 

vacations.

>>>> > > 
>>>> > > Marty - did you try to use a resistor instead of the relay ?
>>>> > > I mean a let's say 470 Ohm to 1k resistor in parallel to the 
>>
>>> > diodes ?
>>
>>>> > > 
>>>> > > Just a suggestion because it is easier to install and much 
>
>> smaller.
>
>>>> > > 
>>>> > > Elvis







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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 16:44:36 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Fanzilla Clones

Marty,


>> The current drawn by John's fan setup is well within the safe
>> operating range of an ordinary 40 amp auto relay, with no need for
>> overly complicated control systems. You can't even tell when they
>> come on, except for the "cooling fan fail" light".
>>
>> PS: My coolant guage needle points to just slightly above the first
>> mark above cold after warm up.


Likewise here. New 3 core radiator from Toby & John's fan upgrade, my
temperature is identical to yours in all conditions. Sitting in stop &
go traffic, 105 degrees outside with the A/C on full blast and the
needle never goes near the halfway mark on the gauge. Sits just above
1/4 most of the time and goes up only slightly in the above
conditions.

I also see no reason for a fan modules or circuit upgrades; John's
fans draw a fraction of the power the original setup did. They're also
extremely quiet. Compared to $200 for a Zilla plus who knows how much
to replace the stock fans when they die, I feel I made the right
decision.

-Ryan


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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 18:46:04 -0500
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Shift Computer


Ha!

Honestly, I'm not in the business of rebuilding them, but like Dave says, I 
*will* do it for a million bucks!  In the midstate club, we haven't had much 
luck with longevity, though.  Still working on that one (right Ron?).

Based on your symptoms, however, there is another thing to check:  If you 
are popping fuses, you could have the large black cable rubbing somewhere, 
or worse yet, draped across the exhaust at some point.  This will cause 
erratic shifting also, and will typically pop the fuse.  We had a couple 
club members that had this problem.  After repairing the melted wire, the 
trouble was gone.  --Just make sure you check it closely at every point from 
the engine bay to the side of the transmission.

Jake Kamphoefner
Manually shifting gears in 1063


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 28, 2005 4:58 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Shift Computer



>> Look on
>>
>> http://www.dmcnews.com/techmain.htm
>>
>> under "transmission" - 2 articles. Or mail it to Jake K and he'll
>> rebuild it for about a million dollars.
>>
>> Don't keep driving it too much that way (right Ken?).
>>
>> Dave Swingle
>>
>>
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...>
>> wrote:
>
>>>> Does anyone have the instructions on how to rebuild the shift
>
>> computer?
>
>>>> Mine is just toasted, it is popping fuses, and shifting from 2nd to
>
>> 3rd and
>
>>>> back and forth on the highway....
>>>>
>>>> It is so bad now, I have to pull the fuse on the highway to stay in
>
>> 3rd,
>
>>>> then put it back in at a stop light....this is crap.
>>>> - VB
>
>> 





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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 16:50:39 -0700
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: RE: "Mock" DeLorean needed

A lot of time at work, and at home from the wife while I think of it,
people pose a difficult question because the obvious answer is
"impossible".  Often it turns out the impossible is easier to lick than
the original challenge.  Help us understand why you can't use a real
Delorean and maybe it will generate some more new ideas...
 







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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 19:47:03 -0500
From: Qumefox <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>
Subject: Re: LED Rear Light Replacment...

Marty Galbreath wrote:


>>No, I suppose you could use a resistor, as I did with my turn signal
>>LEDS, but it seems to negate a lot of the current savings of the
>>leds in the first place. I am sending you my relay scheme off list,
>>as I did for others who were interested.
>>
>>Marty Galbreath
>>#3765
>>
>>
>>

Your completely wrong here. Electronics repair is one of the things I do
for a living.  Resistors limit voltage and current, not increase it.
The higher the resistance, the less current flow the resistor allows.
For instance. a 1k ohm resistor at 12 volts will only pass 12mA of current.

--

Chris
VIN# 03209
http://badger.brazi.net/delorean



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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 00:57:36 +0100
From: "Alistair McCann" <pilot25dmc_at_dml_o2.co.uk>
Subject: Re: DeLorean FAQ Fact Sheet - Update

Any reason why you didnt say that John was dead???

Strange you didnt update that part.....

Al.






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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 18:58:53 -0500
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: ebay buyer protection


Whoa, whoa.  Easy peasy, lemon squeezy.  I never said you didn't deserve 
compensation.  What I actually said was:

"I'm surprised the insurance program is giving anything."

--and I am.  Typically, sales is a "buyer beware" kind of transaction.  It's 
a shame that it has to be this way, I'll admit.  -But relying on any seller 
to have honesty and integrity often results in exactly what you got.  I 
don't think anyone disputes that what this guy did is wrong, and that this 
whole deal really just sucks.  I'm just saying there are ways to help avoid 
it.

Jake Kamphoefner
For me and 1063


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "delorean6859" <tmadsop_at_dml_comcast.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 28, 2005 4:08 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] ebay buyer protection



>> Jake,
>> There is such a thing as HONESTY and INTEGRITY.  When someone (who is
>> also a mechanic) describes a vehicle as "Excellent" and "Needs
>> Nothing", I do feel there is a certain amount of credence that should
>> be placed in that statement.
>>
>> As for why I didn't go to inspect the car, as in my previous post I
>> outlined that.  I've bought cars on ebay before and expect a certain
>> amount of work that needs to be done on a vehicle, but never this bad.
>>
>> So when someone comes on the forum when I am trying to help other
>> people out by outlining a program, forgive me when I take a little
>> offense to someone who does not have full knowledge of my situation
>> tells me I didn't deserve to receive compensation for this.
>>
>> Nate
>> (Name placed on all of my previous posts)
>>
>> 





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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 20:02:41 -0500
From: Qumefox <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>
Subject: Re: LED Center Console Burnout

Robert Lingo wrote:


>>>>Elvis wrote:
>>>>what kind of LED's did you use ?
>>>>
>>>>
>
>>
>>I bought them off EBay about a year ago. All I know is they came in a static
>>proof bag, they are rated at 3.5V, and have a 25000mcd/LED.  I just solder
>>them together and go.
>>
>>
>>

<SNIP>

>>That's why I put them in series.  If I ran them in parallel I would then
>>need resistors for each circuit.
>>
>>Lingo #2034
>>
>>
>>

To make a long storage short.. You still need a current limiting
resistor somewhere in the circuit when using LED's if they don't have
them built in.  Getting the right voltage is only half the battle.  You
have to remember, your dealing with diodes. they conduct current in one
polarity and appear open in the opposite.. When LED's conduct they emit
light.. They will appear in the circuit as a short, therefor trying to
pass all the current supplied until they burn.  This is why you need
current limiting resistors. to limit the amount of current actually
flowing through them.

--

Chris
VIN# 03209
http://badger.brazi.net/delorean



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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 20:06:31 -0400
From: Jason Ferrara <jason_at_dml_discordia.org>
Subject: Water pump squeaking. How long have I got?

I noticed a whirring noise (like a bearing is starting to fail)  
coming from the engine. I removed the belts to check things, and  
found that if I turn the water pump by hand it squeaks a bit. I'm  
assuming thats a bad sign and that its time for a new water pump.

So, my question is, typically how long after a water pump starts  
making those kind of noises will things deteriorate to the point  
where the car isn't usable anymore. If possible I'd like to wait a  
week or two (I usually drive 10 to 20 miles a day) before replacing  
the water pump, but of course I don't want to end up stranded  
somewhere. Unfortunately my backup car is in the shop, and insurance  
is involved (hit a pothole or rock or something and the airbags went  
off. Evil evil airbags), so it may be a while before I get it back.

So, most likely, can I keep driving the Delorean for a week or two,  
or would I be just asking for it?

I could try replacing the pump this weekend, if I can get the parts  
in time, but I'm worried that I may break a bolt or discover some  
other problem that will turn this into a multi day project.

Thanks

- Jason




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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 19:14:35 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Brake Caliper Seperation

If it was the front caliper, then hopefully you replaced the square o ring
seal between them. If not it will leak and that may be what they are talking
about. Other than that it shouldn't be a problem with front or back. Also
make sure you torqued it correctly.
John Hervey



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
cupsdmc
Sent: Wednesday, September 28, 2005 11:41 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Brake Caliper Seperation

I just rebuilt one of my calipers last night. I put in new pistons and 
seals.  In reading my shop manual it says "DO NOT SEPERATE THE TWO 
HALVES OF THE CALIPER"  It doesn't say why.  I did seperate the two 
halves of the caliper by removing the 4 bolts with no problem what so 
ever.  I even put it back together with no problems.  

Does anyone know why the caliper should not be seperated?






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moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 20:13:50 -0400
From: "Michael C. Babb" <mcbabb_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: "Mock" DeLorean needed

No idea - was just passing on n e-mail that I had gotten ...

Michael

Tom Tait wrote:


>>A lot of time at work, and at home from the wife while I think of it,
>>people pose a difficult question because the obvious answer is
>>"impossible".  Often it turns out the impossible is easier to lick than
>>the original challenge.  Help us understand why you can't use a real
>>Delorean and maybe it will generate some more new ideas...
>> 
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>  
>>








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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 19:20:36 -0500
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Water Leaks...again. Any advice/ideas?


Patrick,

I've got a couple more areas to check.  I've noticed on a lot of cars 
(typically early ones) that the fiberglass gets hairline cracks on the 
pontoon on either side of the engine cover hinges.  On my car, they were 
almost invisible, but bad enough that water was leaking in.  On these early 
ones, the fiberglass just isn't of the same quality as the later cars, as is 
rather thin in spots.  When it leaks back there, the water runs in behind 
the back vertical wall and runs down the pontoon, dumping on the carpet. 
Pull the carpet back at the rear base of the console and see if it gets wet 
there (there is that little diagonal piece of pontoon you can see at the 
rear/bottom of the console).  If you remove the back wall and run the garden 
hose all over the engine cover area, you'll see the leak from the inside. 
To fix it, I just used some fiberglass resin from the inside and no one can 
tell the difference.

Another possibility: a lot of the early cars have those extra holes cut in 
the pontoon below the fake air vents (between the door and quarter glass). 
When I spray enough water in the right spot, I still get a little leakage 
into my lock box, and I believe that hole to be the culprit.  For now, it's 
just on my "one of these days" list.  Good luck.

Jake Kamphoefner
1063
Postin' a lot today!


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Patrick Conlon" <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2005 4:51 PM
Subject: [DML] Water Leaks...again. Any advice/ideas?



>> If you all remember, I was the water leak king a few years ago,
>> always posting about this leak and that leak on vin 1880.  Well I
>> still have them, and even Dave Bauerle's shop had no luck, yet
>> stopped one coming in under the passenger door (which I wasn't aware
>> I had).  They thought that fixed it, yet I still have them after
>> washing the car yesterday, and mainly when I run my hand under the
>> driver side carpet after washing and slide it towards the center
>> console area, the closer I get to the console, the wetter the carpet is.
>>
>> At the advice of Ken K. I am going to make a deflector for the big
>> opening/drain on the outside of the car in front of the windshield on
>> the passenger side.  Hopefully somehow water is coming in there, and
>> creating the deflector will shoot the water down farther away from
>> the area where it might be leaking in.  I am sick of breathing the
>> smell of damp carpet.
>>
>> I have performed the factory water leak bulletins, caulked the t-
>> panel, replaced door seals, etc, etc, etc.  Does ANYONE (vendors
>> especially) recall anyone else having this problem in the past 24
>> years, and can anyone else give me any other ideas as to where to
>> look in the event that this deflector doesn't do the trick?  Keep
>> your fingers crossed that it does, I have faith in Ken K.
>>
>>
>> A Very Frustrated Patrick C.
>> 1880
>> 





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Message: 25
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 00:22:40 -0000
From: "Shain Brannan" <dsmguy_at_dml_ptd.net>
Subject: Re: Fanzilla Clones

Ryan,

Installing new fans into your car is an excellant idea, and i have 
heard good things about John's new fans.  Although this is a partial 
solution, you are looking at the problem in the wrong viewpoint.  
The problem is not the cooling system,  but the instant draw of 
current two fan motors places on the electrical system when the fans 
engauge.  Your new fans may only run on 11 amps, and most likely 
pulls double that on startup.  This is why Fanzilla and my module 
attempt to stager the cooling fans.  If the only problem we had were 
fan motors sizes, and the amperage it pulls there would have been 
new fan motors over a decade earlier.  As for fan motors a good 
friend of mine has 600k miles on his fans, and there still going 
strong (bosch builds nice motors).  I'm not trying to say your 
solution is bad,  it is just part of the solution.

-Shain Brannan


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_g...> wrote:

>> Marty,
>> 
>
>>> > The current drawn by John's fan setup is well within the safe
>>> > operating range of an ordinary 40 amp auto relay, with no need 

for

>>> > overly complicated control systems. You can't even tell when they
>>> > come on, except for the "cooling fan fail" light".
>>> >
>>> > PS: My coolant guage needle points to just slightly above the 

first

>>> > mark above cold after warm up.
>
>> 
>> Likewise here. New 3 core radiator from Toby & John's fan upgrade, 

my

>> temperature is identical to yours in all conditions. Sitting in 

stop &

>> go traffic, 105 degrees outside with the A/C on full blast and the
>> needle never goes near the halfway mark on the gauge. Sits just 

above

>> 1/4 most of the time and goes up only slightly in the above
>> conditions.
>> 
>> I also see no reason for a fan modules or circuit upgrades; John's
>> fans draw a fraction of the power the original setup did. They're 

also

>> extremely quiet. Compared to $200 for a Zilla plus who knows how 

much

>> to replace the stock fans when they die, I feel I made the right
>> decision.
>> 
>> -Ryan







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