Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2900
Date:29 Sep 2005 15:36:31 -0000

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: crumple tube
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>

2. Re: Turn Signal/Clock
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>

3. Steering Lock Lube Process
From: "Nick Kemp" <>

4. SOUTHEASTERN DELOREAN CLUB meeting Oct 1 – final info
From: "lakelanier20" <>

5. DeLorean Dealership sign Shipping help needed

6. Re: Brake saga........
From: "basfe25" <>

7. one fan running backwards?
From: "Duke" <>

8. Fuse 8 & 2 have no power?
From: "Duke" <>

9. Re: LED Rear Light Replacment...
From: "Marty Galbreath" <>

10. Re: Water pump squeaking. How long have I got?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>

11. RE: Water pump squeaking. How long have I got?
From: "John Hervey" <>

12. RE: Fanzilla Clones
From: "John Hervey" <>

13. Re: Shift Computer
From: Marc Levy <>

14. RE: Painting the intake manifold
From: "John Hervey" <>

15. Re: Re: Shift Computer
From: "Eric Itzel" <>

16. AW: Brake Caliper Seperation
From: "Elvis Nocita" <>

17. Any DeLorean Owners in Hingham, Massachusetts??

18. RE: DCS and Christopher LLOYD
From: "Tom Tait" <>

19. Re: ebay buyer protection
From: "cbl1739" <>

20. AW: LED Rear Light Replacment...
From: "Elvis Nocita" <>

21. Washer Motor
From: Jeremiah Montee <>

22. Re: Steering lock doesn't unlock & Jiggling didn't help
From: Jeremiah Montee <>

23. Re: DCS and Christopher LLOYD
From: "conundrum1984" <>

24. Re: Turn Signal/Clock
From: "conundrum1984" <>

25. Re: More good press for DeLorean's and their owners
From: "conundrum1984" <>

Message: 1
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 01:09:53 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>
Subject: Re: crumple tube

It is much more likely that the crumple tubes are just rusted out.
Once they rust bad enough they can't hold the front parts in place
anymore and the structure collapses. The other problem was the sway
bar. The factory added reenforcing brackets to spread the load. If you
don't have them that will contribute to the problem.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In, Erik Geerdink <dmcerik_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>> My front crumple tube on my old frame was collapsing on both sides.

 While talking to another Delorean owner with a lot of experience, he
said that was fromthe weight of the car as you brake being sent to the fr


Message: 2
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 01:14:09 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>
Subject: Re: Turn Signal/Clock

When I check bulbs I remove it and "flick" it with a finger. Watch the
filiments. If one end wiggles around it can make contact and work for
a while. Hard to describe, easy to demonstrate. Annoying when it
happens and gives you intermittant problems. Testing IS important
though. Very hard to visually inspect electrical equipment.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In, "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_k...> wrote:

>> Hi Gang - Relative to this thread on turn signal light behavior, I 
>> just had an interesting situation with Winged1.  I started getting 
>> the "fast flash" on the right hand turn indicator, which suggested 
>> that one of the bulbs had gone bad, or one of the sockets had 


Message: 3
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 20:37:15 -0500
From: "Nick Kemp" <>
Subject: Steering Lock Lube Process

Here are the steps I used to lube the steering lock:

- Remove the lower plastic housing (3 screws)
- Remove the ignition switch from the LH side (I don't recall how the
original is installed since I'm using a Nissan switch.  The original may be
secured with the small set screw )
- Remove the "adaptor" that interfaces the tumbler to the ignition Sw
- Using something like a propellant can of foaming bicycle chain lube &
using the tube on the lube nozzle,
	- depress the tumbler tab with a screwdriver
	- Insert the lube tube into the opening between the tab and the wall
	- Give it a squirt into the housing
- Cycle the tumbler to spread the oil
- Repeat for coverage
- Reassemble
- When tightening the third bolt that is under the column, do not over
tighten since the fine threads will strip.

Do not use WD-40.  WD-40 is not a lubricant, at least not for very long
since it evaporates quickly.  As I recall, WD-40 stand for Water
Dispersing-40th formulation (till they got it right).  But I'm subject to
being wrong without notice.

A foaming oil works well since it disperses the oil in all three planes.

Did it solve my problem? The steering lock does move smoother but the lock
is still finicky.


Message: 4
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 02:05:42 -0000
From: "lakelanier20" <>
Subject: SOUTHEASTERN DELOREAN CLUB meeting Oct 1 – final info

Hello everyone,
      Here's an update on the meeting which will take place this 
Saturday, October 1, 2005 in the Atlanta area.

The pub in Alpharetta mentioned in the previous email unfortunately 
will not work for this meeting, so we have decided on a new place 
about 15 miles west of that, near Gwinnett Mall. 

The address is:
Athens Pizza Kouzzina
2205 Pleasant Hill Rd
Duluth, GA 30096
(770) 813-1369

This is a cozy, family-owned greek/pizza restaurant, with a HUGE 
parking lot, and hopefully will be an excellent place for a great 

The time will be 1:00 p.m., and I'll park my DeLorean in the lot 
somewhere in front of the restaurant, and we'll kind of gather
out there until most everyone arrives.

Just so everyone is clear about this, this meeting is about 
discussing the reviving of the Southeastern DeLorean Club, planning 
future events and tech sessions, and of course just having a good 
time and talking DeLoreans.  Those of you who would have to drive 4 
or 5 + hours to get here might be disappointed, as this won't be
an all-day thing with tech sessions yet, but you are ABSOLUTELY 
welcome to come.    

The easiest way to get to Athens Pizza Kouzzina is to take Highway 
85 (Interstate 85) to the Pleasant Hill Rd exit, # 104.  If you are 
coming FROM the north, you would turn right onto Pleasant Hill Rd, 
and if you are coming from the south, you would turn left onto 
Pleasant Hill Rd.
Then travel about half a mile on Pleasant Hill Rd, until you see a 
Barnes and Noble bookstore on the left.  At the next traffic light, 
you will turn left, where there's an "On the Border"
Pass by that place and then veer to the left and you will see the 
Athens Pizza Kouzzina.

The following maps/picture should make finding the place very easy.

~Vital info again~
When:  This Saturday, Oct. 1st, at 1:00 pm
Where:  Athens Pizza Kouzzina, Duluth, GA

If you have any questions, don't hesitate to email me!   
derek4567 (at)

Thank you so much and we hope to see many Southeastern DeLorean 
owners and enthusiasts this Saturday!

-Derek Lukaschus
VIN 5302


From: "lakelanier20" <derek4567 (at)> 
Date: Mon Sep 12, 2005  10:37 pm 
Subject: SEDOC Resurrection

Greetings all former and future Southeastern DeLorean Owners Club
(SEDOC) members,

For the past year and a half or so, SEDOC has unfortunately been
dormant. But hopefully that is about to change…. Some of us
DeLorean owners and enthusiasts in the Atlanta area have greatly
missed the club's events, and have recently taken steps to get
things going again. Among these missed events is the biennial
cruise-in at Lake Lanier in Gainesville, GA. This has been a
fantastic event in the past, attracting around 20 cars as well as
the attendance of DMCH, Rob Grady, John Hervey, and Bob Zilla. The
last one was in September 2003, and since the next one was supposed
to be THIS month, we are really feeling the absence of the active
We would like to have a meeting on Saturday, October 1st, 2005,
(which is in just under 3 weeks from now) to get everyone together
and discuss the legitimacy of reviving SEDOC. The meeting place
will be a private room in the Harp Pub, located at 1425 Market Blvd,
Suite 1330 Roswell, Georgia 30076. This is very near where highway
400 meets Holcomb Bridge Rd, just north of Atlanta. We'd really
like for as many people to come as possible, so if you are at all
interested, please come!!!
We will of course be discussing the future direction of the club,
but one thing we know already is that we'd like to have monthly
or bi-monthly tech sessions. We have a lengthy list of topics, so
we know we're well stocked for tech session activities for a long
In addition to posting this on all the DeLorean forums, we are also
sending this out to our email list, as well as calling the people
who we don't have an email address for. If you personally know
anyone who might be interested, please let them know also.

To gauge interest in making this meeting possible, please respond by
email to:
derek4567 (at)

Thank you so much and we hope to see you on October 1st!!

Derek Lukaschus and Sean Mullins


Message: 5
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 22:31:00 EDT
Subject: DeLorean Dealership sign Shipping help needed

I need help shipping some Dealership signs from California and Tennessee  
back to the Washington DC area. 
 Please email me privately.
Mike Pack


Message: 6
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 02:35:33 -0000
From: "basfe25" <>
Subject: Re: Brake saga........

I did bleed the MC while on the car. I had two clear hoses attached to
each port going back into the MC, no bubbles appeared after 7-8 pumps.
I'm tempted to just purchase the new MC DMCH started to reman and see
if that clears things up. 

There is one more test that I am going to try but I have not had the
time. I was going to make another line that went from the MC directly
to one of the calipers just to see if at least that will work. I may
try the tip another fellow DML'er said he did, get another MC cap and
install a shrader valve on it to compress the cylinder with air and
see if that will help. I mean I did try compressing the system with
one that did it with brake fluid but what do I have to loose?


--- In, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_o...> wrote:

>> A very common reason to have this problem is that you did not properly
>> bleed the master cylinder. It should be "bench bled". This means you
>> put it in a vise, fill it with brake fluid, use 2 short tubes
>> connected to the outlet ports and bent around into the resovoir, and
>> slowly push on the piston until you stop seeing air bubbles coming out
>> of the tubes. Once you have completly bled the master cylinder, put
>> caps on the outlet ports and install in the car. Now bleed the brake
>> system again and you should get fluid out the front brake calipers. It
>> could also be your bleeding technique. Go to a local auto store and by
>> a "one man brake bleeder". It is a piece of tubing with a one-way
>> check valve so you don't pull air back in while you are bleeding the
>> system. Use a large clear cup with some fluid in it and keep the end
>> of the brake bleeder in the fluid so it can't pull air and you can see
>> the bubbles coming out.
>> David Teitelbaum
>> vin 10757
>> --- In, "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_h...> wrote:
>>> > Ok, a while ago I posted that I was having front brake problems. A
>>> > reminder: Master cylinder is brand new, front calipers are rebuilt and
>>> > all lines are new. The only difference in the car is the fact that I
>>> > have the SS braided brake lines rather then the old rubber ones.
>>> > 
>>> > For the life of me....I can't get my front brakes to work!!! Rear
>>> > brakes work great but the fronts just won't clamp down and grab. At
>>> > first I though it was a defective Master cylinder so Rob at PJ Grady
>>> > exchanged it for me, still no luck. I next thought that maybe I didn't
>>> > rebuild the front calipers properly so I purchased a pair that were
>>> > rebuilt professionally, still won't work. I have gone through 6
>>> > b


Message: 7
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 21:31:54 -0500
From: "Duke" <>
Subject: one fan running backwards?

After reading the post about which direction the fans should work, I decided 
to check my fans and make sure they were working ok.  As it turns out, one 
fan is pulling the air away from the radiator like its supposed to, however, 
the other one is pushing the air towards the radiator.  Once again, I looked 
at the wiring at the front of the car and its been 'worked' on in the past. 
My question is how to I fix this? Just reverse the wiring on the one fan or 
is there something more to it?

Thanks for any help!



Message: 8
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 21:39:53 -0500
From: "Duke" <>
Subject: Fuse 8 & 2 have no power?

As my wiring woes continue, I went to turn on my lights the other day (this 
is before I started working on repairing the relay compartment) and my dash 
didn't light up.  I also didn't have any side, rear lights either.  Only 

I then checked the fuses in the relay compartment with a test light and 
found that fuse 8 & 2 had no power at all.  I then took the cover off to 
gain access to the headlight switch in the dash and I swapped out the 
headlight switch thinking that might be the problem but that didn't work.

I then put the cover back on and tried it again and it was working?  I 
didn't touch anything but I decided to try wiggling the wires behind the 
dash at the headlight switch (thinking it might be a loose connection) but 
it never went out.

The next day I tried it again and it didn't work yet again.  Checked the 
fuses and no power to 8 & 2.  Any ideas?

I've finished up the relay compartment rewiring (but it didn't involve the 
fuse box; just relays) and the lights are working fine now, but I'm just 
worried if I'm out one night and they stop.  I'd like to figure out what is 
causing the prob.




Message: 9
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 02:48:59 -0000
From: "Marty Galbreath" <>
Subject: Re: LED Rear Light Replacment...

[MODERATOR'S NOTE: It looks like there is confusion in this discussion about whether the resistor being discussed is series connected or parallel connected. I suggest that it might be helpful in further posts on this to be more specific in clarifying this since it is central to the points being debated.]

Then perhaps you can explain to the rest of us how the 6 Ohm 50 watt 
resistors sold by Superbright can load the stock flasher 
module to work with LED turn signals, or why they get hot in the 
process of doing so, and yet do not draw any current? Does this heat 
come from the ether?

A resistor across an otherwise open or high impedance circuit will 
increase the current flow, the extent of which depending on the size 
of the resistor.

Marty Galbreath

>>> >
>> Your completely wrong here. Electronics repair is one of the 

things I do

>> for a living.  Resistors limit voltage and current, not increase 


>> The higher the resistance, the less current flow the resistor 


>> For instance. a 1k ohm resistor at 12 volts will only pass 12mA of 


>> --
>> Chris
>> VIN# 03209
>> --
>> No virus found in this outgoing message.
>> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
>> Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.8/113 - Release Date: 



Message: 10
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 03:00:10 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>
Subject: Re: Water pump squeaking. How long have I got?

This is a real tough one to answer. It is like going to the doctor and
asking him "How long have I got Doc?". It can make a noise for a long
time before the bearing finally seizes up or it may just start
leaking. It may leak very slowly for a long time or it may just start
gushing out. The safe thing to do is to park the car until you can fix
it. You are gambling with the life of the engine and it can get
expensive if you
were to overheat it. Not to mention the towing bill. The bottom line,
there is no "typical" time to failure. This is also why, when you are
replacing ALL the seals and hoses you just replace the water pump.
After 20 + years you cannot expect it to last much longer and it is
not a simple remove-and-replace like on most other cars. The other
possability is one of the idler bearings for the A/C is failing. Run
the motor without the A/C belt and see if the noise goes away. If it
doesn't it "could" be the alternator, not the water pump. Plan for and
expect at least 1 bolt to break, either on the intake manifold or the
water distribution pipe. If it is your first time it is a long 1 day
project. Take notes and pictures for routing and placement of hoses,
wires, etc. Be especially careful with those pesky copper washers. If
you drop them you cannot get them with a magnet and you MUST be sure
they are all in there when reassembling or you will have leaks. If you
are not very flexible it is easier if you remove the engine cover.
While you are in there you should also replace the spark plugs,
ignition wires, cap, and rotor, idler bearings and belts. For a
complete job replace the injector seals, vacuum hoses, have the fuel
injectors tested and cleaned, air filter, adjust the valves, replace
the O2 sensor and reset the mixture. When done change the oil and oil
filter. As you can see this can turn into a large job best left for
the winter if possible.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In, Jason Ferrara <jason_at_dml_d...> wrote:

>> I noticed a whirring noise (like a bearing is starting to fail)  
>> coming from the engine. I removed the belts to check things, and  
>> found that if I turn the water pump by hand it squeaks a bit. I'm  
>> assuming thats a bad sign and that its time for a new water pump.
>> So, my question is, typically how long after a water pump starts  


Message: 11
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 21:55:01 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <>
Subject: RE: Water pump squeaking. How long have I got?

Jason, I would replace it quick. I don't think you will have that many miles
B 4 it starts to leak or the bearings seize up and then you will loose the
alternator because of the belt.
John Hervey

-----Original Message-----
From: [] On Behalf Of
Jason Ferrara
Sent: Wednesday, September 28, 2005 6:07 PM
Subject: [DML] Water pump squeaking. How long have I got?

I noticed a whirring noise (like a bearing is starting to fail)  
coming from the engine. I removed the belts to check things, and  
found that if I turn the water pump by hand it squeaks a bit. I'm  
assuming thats a bad sign and that its time for a new water pump.


Message: 12
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 22:02:32 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <>
Subject: RE: Fanzilla Clones

Shain & Group, 
The new Special T Fans, being of new technology have less start up current
draw than one of the original Bosch fans, that's why I tell people that if
you buy my new fans then you don't need my Fan Fix or anyone else's. 
If it's less than one Bosch fan then why spend more money. If they still
want to spend it I will take it, but no need. 
John Hervey
The Fan Fix 
Not a Clone  

-----Original Message-----
From: [] On Behalf Of
Shain Brannan
Sent: Wednesday, September 28, 2005 6:23 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Fanzilla Clones


Installing new fans into your car is an excellant idea, and i have 
heard good things about John's new fans.  Although this is a partial 
solution, you are looking at the problem in the wrong viewpoint.  
The problem is not the cooling system,  but the instant draw of 
current two fan motors places on the electrical system when the fans 
engauge.  Your new fans may only run on 11 amps, and most likely 
pulls double that on startup.  This is why Fanzilla and my module 
attempt to stager the cooling fans.  If the only problem we had were 
fan motors sizes, and the amperage it pulls there would have been 
new fan motors over a decade earlier.  As for fan motors a good 
friend of mine has 600k miles on his fans, and there still going 
strong (bosch builds nice motors).  I'm not trying to say your 
solution is bad,  it is just part of the solution.

-Shain Brannan

--- In, Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_g...> wrote:

>> Marty,
>>> > The current drawn by John's fan setup is well within the safe
>>> > operating range of an ordinary 40 amp auto relay, with no need 


>>> > overly complicated control systems. You can't even tell when they
>>> > come on, except for the "cooling fan fail" light".
>>> >
>>> > PS: My coolant guage needle points to just slightly above the 


>>> > mark above cold after warm up.
>> Likewise here. New 3 core radiator from Toby & John's fan upgrade, 


>> temperature is identical to yours in all conditions. Sitting in 

stop &

>> go traffic, 105 degrees outside with the A/C on full blast and the
>> needle never goes near the halfway mark on the gauge. Sits just 


>> 1/4 most of the time and goes up only slightly in the above
>> conditions.
>> I also see no reason for a fan modules or circuit upgrades; John's
>> fans draw a fraction of the power the original setup did. They're 


>> extremely quiet. Compared to $200 for a Zilla plus who knows how 


>> to replace the stock fans when they die, I feel I made the right
>> decision.
>> -Ryan

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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 20:17:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <>
Subject: Re: Shift Computer

Send it to me, and I will put $5 worth of parts in to
it, and charge you $300 for my expert soldering


Or, see this:

--- Videobob Moseley <> wrote:

>> Does anyone have the instructions on how to rebuild
>> the shift computer?
>> Mine is just toasted, it is popping fuses, and
>> shifting from 2nd to 3rd and 
>> back and forth on the highway....
>> It is so bad now, I have to pull the fuse on the
>> highway to stay in 3rd, 
>> then put it back in at a stop light....this is crap.
>> - VB

Yahoo! for Good 
Donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort. 


Message: 14
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 22:53:01 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <>
Subject: RE: Painting the intake manifold

Todd, Take a look at the covers I do on the 2nd page of the engine section.
Then the paint and primer I use is on the accessories page.
John Hervey

-----Original Message-----
From: [] On Behalf Of
Todd Nelson
Sent: Friday, September 23, 2005 11:58 AM
To: DMC-News
Subject: [DML] Painting the intake manifold


I'm looking at painting my intake manifold and valve covers to spruce up the
look of the engine a little bit.  However I'm not sure what paint to use.
I've found a couple posts in the archives about using hi-temp paint only to
have it burn away in a few minutes.  But this could be for a number of
reasons like improper preparation, etc.  Anyone have any experience with
this?  If so what paint did you use?  Any special preparation?

Todd Nelson
1561, Vermont

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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 23:55:09 -0400
From: "Eric Itzel" <>
Subject: Re: Re: Shift Computer

>>In the midstate club, we haven't had much luck with longevity, though.

Still working on >that one (right Ron?).

Hey Jake,

Do you mean that your computer fixes are not lasting? A year ago I repaired
my shift computer using the DMCNews tech articles, and I also replaced a
portion of the harness wire that was toasted by the exhaust. Recently I've
been having shifting problems- the transmission seems sluggish until it has
ample time to warm up. I am curious if any of my repairs have been undone by
the car.


Eric Itzel
vin 4433


Message: 16
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 08:17:07 +0200
From: "Elvis Nocita" <>
Subject: AW: Brake Caliper Seperation

They say that because those are special bolts that shouldn't be reused,
like the cylinder head bolts. same story.

I did that, too several times yet and never had a problem.
But if there's a problem....I'll be in big trouble I guess.


I just rebuilt one of my calipers last night. I put in new pistons and 
seals.  In reading my shop manual it says "DO NOT SEPERATE THE TWO 
HALVES OF THE CALIPER"  It doesn't say why.  I did seperate the two 
halves of the caliper by removing the 4 bolts with no problem what so 
ever.  I even put it back together with no problems.  

Does anyone know why the caliper should not be seperated?


Message: 17
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 01:00:00 EDT
Subject: Any DeLorean Owners in Hingham, Massachusetts??

I have to be in Hingham, Massachusetts for business this coming week.  Anyone 
here from the area?
Mike Pack


Message: 18
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 23:40:06 -0700
From: "Tom Tait" <>
Subject: RE: DCS and Christopher LLOYD

I've run into and also worked with Tom Wilson on a number of occasions,
and I can tell you he is a bright, talented funny and enthusiastic guy.
It should not be hard to track down his agent as he still works
regularly in the industry.  If you can get him to show he will be a real

-----Original Message-----
From: [] On Behalf
Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2005 7:26 PM
Subject: [DML] DCS and Christopher LLOYD

Hey I got  you to look 
I am trying to get one more star to the show and I have been asked a
of times if Christopher Lloyd is avail. More times than I can remember
I asked Bob Gale again if he had heard anything and well below is as
much  as I know here is part of his response to my questions.
I am trying too hard on this one my time machine has bad time  circuits
or I would go to the future and find out for you all if he is  coming.
<<<Ken, I saw Christopher  Lloyd on Sunday.  It's too soon for him to
commit, but he's definitely  interested.  I'll stay on top of it and
keep you posted! 

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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 06:43:33 -0000
From: "cbl1739" <>
Subject: Re: ebay buyer protection


It works on both ends I sold a Bricklin on Ebay(new owner was happy 
with it left me excellent feedback)But anyway what I did and ALWAYS
is videotape everything! As when the transporter came to pickup the 
car,the tape started rolling,as he was the one that drove the car on 
the carrier,loaded it up ect,it served a dual purpose,(A) if he
it up,starter/overreving/hitting something,driving it off the other
of the transporter(ie:taking a dive)rolling off the transporter
it showed the car ran,motor/starter worked flawless,doors
(C)it showed the body allover condition,in case it got delivered 
damaged.(D) I videoed all the extra stuff left in the car ect.(E)
Basically COVERING my ass! As when he got the car,delivered,(DAS took 
3 weeks to go from CT to Texas)it had
flat tires and would not start and the interior was drenched,ok the 
last one was a known fact that most Bricklins leak.(I never drove it
the rain) Then I made a copy,and along with the spare keys mailed it
him,(car destination was the middle of Texas)so in effect he saw the 
car Going and coming,and had keys for it in case they lost them.And 
again IT covered my ass,as my video clearly showed,no flats and 
starting easy(I had put a new battery one day earlier(from Sam's 
Club,so that if problems arose, he could exchange it,at his local
club.and I also installed new tires.My point here Buyer OR seller
your bases,before buying or selling.And be careful on ebay,there are
lot of scammers.
P.S ALWAYS ALWAYS buy Delievery Confirmation,when shipping  parts or 
anything sold on ebay.
To many people,"claim" they never recieved the item.Without D.C. you 
are up S--ts creek.No proof that you even shipped it out! You
I wonder how pissed off the seller got when he found out/ got the
in the mail when you zoomed thru the toll booths,with his ex.Delorean 
and his plate! He got a taste of his own medicine.I think he also 
learned a lesson..Never leave the plate on the car you sold/sell.


   --- In, "delorean6859" <tmadsop_at_dml_c...>

>> Jake,
>> There is such a thing as HONESTY and INTEGRITY.  When someone (who


>> also a mechanic) describes a vehicle as "Excellent" and "Needs
>> Nothing", I do feel there is a certain amount of credence that


>> be placed in that statement.  
>> As for why I didn't go to inspect the car, as in my previous post I
>> outlined that.  I've bought cars on ebay before and expect a certain
>> amount of work that needs to be done on a vehicle, but never this


>> So when someone comes on the forum when I am trying to help other
>> people out by outlining a program, forgive me when I take a little
>> offense to someone who does not have full knowledge of my situation
>> tells me I didn't deserve to receive compensation for this. 
>> Nate
>> (Name placed on all of my previous posts)


Message: 20
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 08:53:04 +0200
From: "Elvis Nocita" <>
Subject: AW: LED Rear Light Replacment...

we were talking about how to solve that problem with the LED 
brake-lights and cruise control problem. Instead of the extra relay I said 
try a resistor in parallel to the LEDs to pull the level down so that the
cruise control ECU can see a real low level, because only with LEDs
installed and resistors in series the level might stay too high.


Marty Galbreath wrote:

>>No, I suppose you could use a resistor, as I did with my turn signal
>>LEDS, but it seems to negate a lot of the current savings of the
>>leds in the first place. I am sending you my relay scheme off list,
>>as I did for others who were interested.
>>Marty Galbreath

Your completely wrong here. Electronics repair is one of the things I do
for a living.  Resistors limit voltage and current, not increase it.
The higher the resistance, the less current flow the resistor allows.
For instance. a 1k ohm resistor at 12 volts will only pass 12mA of current.


VIN# 03209


Message: 21
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 00:54:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeremiah Montee <>
Subject: Washer Motor

Ok, here's one I haven't seen much posted about.

As I have been repairing/working on/modifying/fixing
the car more and more, I got to thinking among the
smaller things, I do not have a properly working
windshield washer motor.  If I push the "washer"
option, my blades move, but no fluid hits the
windshield.  Yes, there is fluid in the reservoir.  So
I figured among other things the most likely culprit
is a burned out washer motor.

I have heard from some owners that the washer motor
sprays literally a very minor amount of fluid and that
it's more trouble than it's worth.  However, I feel as
the car gets more and more complete that it's the
little things - hazard lights switch, cigar lighter
functional, glove box light working, miniature torson
bar that pops the glove box lid up - that really
complete the car, especially the DeLorean.  I'm
irritated if a side marker light goes out in my Nissan
truck, muchtheless if options on my DeLorean don't
work.  So looking at it from two viewpoints:

1.  It isn't worth it - don't do it.  It doesn't
really matter, just take it to a car wash or clean it
at a gas station.

2.  Every little function compliments the car - fix

For those of you that have done this repair, can you
please share your experience?  I read the manual; it
looks to be a straight forward, afternoon kind of job.
 Its location being on the left driver's side
underbody - take cap off reservoir, lossen screws and
washers, pop compartment off underbody, gently pull
the reservoir down, disconnect electrical connections,
pull reservoir assembly out, unscrew motor, install
new motor, and reverse the assembly from there.  As
always, you go out THINKING it'll be 1-3 hours tops,
but with old cars - the unexpected can always occur. 
Any experiences and any unexpected scenarios that
popped up, please share.  I would like to be prepared
to the best of my ability as I look to doing this
before the end of October.

These are the kind of jobs that seem interesting, and
that I would like to add to my book..ERrrr....list of
"Things Done".  Most recently, I finally was able to
repair/replace/reassemble the auto transmission
quadrant and changed out the entire binnacle
instrument cluster with LEDs.  These kind of jobs that
you don't do "yearly" I enjoy and gives me great
feelings of confidence and accomplishment.  I'd love
to add the washer motor to that list.

Thank you for your time.


Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005


Message: 22
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 01:14:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeremiah Montee <>
Subject: Re: Steering lock doesn't unlock & Jiggling didn't help

Not to slight what everyone here has said, but when
this happened to me - and all your symptoms from what
I've read were absolutely identical, I called a
locksmith.  I made sure it was one that specialized in
automotive locks.  What it boiled down to, the
tumblers had to be reset.  After that, I haven't had a
problem since.


Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005


Message: 23
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 13:57:35 -0000
From: "conundrum1984" <>
Subject: Re: DCS and Christopher LLOYD

I doubt that Michael J. Fox would be up to it due to the current 
condition he is in.  But you never know.  Anyone have a news on him 

VIN: 2953

--- In, "Josh Porter" <joshp1986_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>> That would be really cool if him and Micheal J. Fox came to the show.
>> Josh


Message: 24
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 14:11:12 -0000
From: "conundrum1984" <>
Subject: Re: Turn Signal/Clock

Also, check to see if you need to do the "tail-light board fix" with 
the little screws or sodering.  You may even need new boards.  But I 
would try to clean and put in some screws into the rivets or soder 

My DeLorean's left turn signal will have the rapid flash sometimes.  
But I'll just get out and tap the left tail-light, and it comes on and 
works fine.  I'm going to do the tail-light board fix sometime and use 
Tarn-X to clean it.

VIN: 2953


Message: 25
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 14:21:29 -0000
From: "conundrum1984" <>
Subject: Re: More good press for DeLorean's and their owners

I believe they had every gold panel for the last car except for the 
passenger side door.  It is a different shade of gold than the rest of 
the car because they and to have one made for it and I think it was 
applied by hand.  

Yes, it is true that Carl and his wife are getting a pair of tickets to 
go to Ireland with the Gold Delorean.  Except Carl's health will not 
allow him to go.  He told me that if someone buys the car before the 
trip to Eurofest, he will give them his tickets.  He also stated that 
when the car goes over to Ireland, it may not come back.  It will be 
expose internationally to a market and he sais if someone over there 
offers him $250,000, it's staying over there.

VIN: 2953


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