Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2901
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:29 Sep 2005 23:36:01 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 19 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Cooling System Refilling
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>

2. Re: Re: Brake saga........
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>

3. RE: one fan running backwards?
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

4. Chris Lloyd & Michael Fox
From: "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>

5. Re: Brake saga........
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

6. Re: one fan running backwards?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

7. Re: one fan running backwards?
From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>

8. Re: Washer Motor
From: "bkp944" <bkp944_at_dml_comcast.net>

9. Headlight Covers
From: "denverdelorean" <denverdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. Re: DeLorean FAQ Fact Sheet - Update
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. Re: Shift Computer
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

12. Re: one fan running backwards?
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

13. Re: Washer Motor
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

14. Re: Fanzilla Clones
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

15. Re: Washer Motor
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

16. positive DeLorean story about negative shipping problem...
From: "Josh Haldeman" <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>

17. Re: Water pump squeaking. How long have I got?
From: "Mike Bosworth" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>

18. Re: Wiring in some extra juice
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

19. RE: Fuse 8 & 2 have no power?
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 14:41:51 -0000
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Cooling System Refilling

Bob,
You might want to check the wires for those two fuses, mine actually 
came loose and the fans didn't come on.  Put new connectors on them, 
good as new.

Matt
VIN: 2953

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Robert J. Wilson" <rjwilson62_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:I have the two fuses in 

>> the blue relay socket in the area behind the passenger seat.
>> Regards,
>> 
>> Bob W.







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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 10:58:18 -0400
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>
Subject: Re: Re: Brake saga........

Steve,

Since in your original post you stated that the rear brakes work, then you 
might try swapping the front brake circuit line with the port on the MC for 
the rear brake circuit.  If it works then I think that's strong evidence 
that the MC is bad.  I apologize if you have already done this or someone 
else suggested it.

Good Luck
Todd Nelson,
1561, Vermont


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 28, 2005 10:35 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Brake saga........



>>I did bleed the MC while on the car. I had two clear hoses attached to
>> each port going back into the MC, no bubbles appeared after 7-8 pumps.
>> I'm tempted to just purchase the new MC DMCH started to reman and see
>> if that clears things up.
>>
>> There is one more test that I am going to try but I have not had the
>> time. I was going to make another line that went from the MC directly
>> to one of the calipers just to see if at least that will work. I may
>> try the tip another fellow DML'er said he did, get another MC cap and
>> install a shrader valve on it to compress the cylinder with air and
>> see if that will help. I mean I did try compressing the system with
>> one that did it with brake fluid but what do I have to loose?
>>
>> Steve
>>
>>
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_o...> wrote:
>
>>>> A very common reason to have this problem is that you did not properly
>>>> bleed the master cylinder. It should be "bench bled". This means you
>>>> put it in a vise, fill it with brake fluid, use 2 short tubes
>>>> connected to the outlet ports and bent around into the resovoir, and
>>>> slowly push on the piston until you stop seeing air bubbles coming out
>>>> of the tubes. Once you have completly bled the master cylinder, put
>>>> caps on the outlet ports and install in the car. Now bleed the brake
>>>> system again and you should get fluid out the front brake calipers. It
>>>> could also be your bleeding technique. Go to a local auto store and by
>>>> a "one man brake bleeder". It is a piece of tubing with a one-way
>>>> check valve so you don't pull air back in while you are bleeding the
>>>> system. Use a large clear cup with some fluid in it and keep the end
>>>> of the brake bleeder in the fluid so it can't pull air and you can see
>>>> the bubbles coming out.
>>>> David Teitelbaum
>>>> vin 10757
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_h...> wrote:
>>
>>>>> > Ok, a while ago I posted that I was having front brake problems. A
>>>>> > reminder: Master cylinder is brand new, front calipers are rebuilt and
>>>>> > all lines are new. The only difference in the car is the fact that I
>>>>> > have the SS braided brake lines rather then the old rubber ones.
>>>>> >
>>>>> > For the life of me....I can't get my front brakes to work!!! Rear
>>>>> > brakes work great but the fronts just won't clamp down and grab. At
>>>>> > first I though it was a defective Master cylinder so Rob at PJ Grady
>>>>> > exchanged it for me, still no luck. I next thought that maybe I didn't
>>>>> > rebuild the front calipers properly so I purchased a pair that were
>>>>> > rebuilt professionally, still won't work. I have gone through 6
>>>>> > b
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
>> www.dmcnews.com
>>
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> 






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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 10:02:26 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: one fan running backwards?

Duke, Just reverse the wiring on the fan blowing.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com





-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Duke
Sent: Wednesday, September 28, 2005 8:32 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] one fan running backwards?

After reading the post about which direction the fans should work, I decided

to check my fans and make sure they were working ok.  As it turns out, one 
fan is pulling the air away from the radiator like its supposed to, however,

the other one is pushing the air towards the radiator.  Once again, I looked

at the wiring at the front of the car and its been 'worked' on in the past. 
My question is how to I fix this? Just reverse the wiring on the one fan or 
is there something more to it?

Thanks for any help!

Duke





To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links



 






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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 10:18:56 -0400
From: "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>
Subject: Chris Lloyd & Michael Fox

Ken:
What about making the DCS in Pheasant Run a combination DeLorean meet and a fund raiser for Michael J. Fox's favorite charity. Perhaps that may be enough to help induce (seduce) him to appear at the show. A tie in with the Oprah show in Chicago might help pay his expenses to that area. If he showed, the media would jump on the coverage. It would be a win / win deal.

We should have enough time to have our members with the celebrity connections, get a feel of the probability.

Your thoughts?

Marv.
# 17077
marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com 
  ----------

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.6/111 - Release Date: 9/23/2005


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 15:18:49 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Brake saga........

Do not use too much pressure trying to pressure bleed the mater
cylinder. The resovoir is plastic and the seals are not meant for a
lot of pressure in that manner. A better method is to presure bleed
from the calipers to the master cylinder but you shouldn't have to do
it that way. I still have to believe something is not right with your
technique. Another possability is the pushrod from the vacuum booster
is way out of adjustment and you are not "compensating" properly when
the pedal is released. Disconnect the master cylinder from the booster
by removing the 2 nuts leaving the lines connected. Get a screwdriver
and push the piston in the master cylinder to bleed the system. Once
bled replace the master cylinder back on the booster and try to bleed
again. If you can't, you must readjust the pushrod usually by
shortening it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_h...> wrote:

>> I did bleed the MC while on the car. I had two clear hoses attached to
>> each port going back into the MC, no bubbles appeared after 7-8 pumps.
>> I'm tempted to just purchase the new MC DMCH started to reman and see
>> if that clears things up. 
>> 







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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 15:23:28 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: one fan running backwards?

just switching the wires on the fan that is running the wrong way will
get it to run in the other (correct) direction. Be careful to ONLY
change the one fan that is going the wrong way.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Duke" <at88mph_at_dml_w...> wrote:

>> After reading the post about which direction the fans should work, I

decided 

>> to check my fans and make sure they were working ok.  As it turns

out, one 

>> fan is pulling the air away from the radiator like its supposed to,

however, 

>> the other one is pushing the air towards the radiator.  Once again,

I looked 

>> at the wiring at the front of the car and its been 'worked' on in

the past. 

>> My question is how to I fix this? Just reverse the wiring on the one

fan or 

>> is there something more to it?
>> 
>> Thanks for any help!
>> 
>> Duke








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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 17:36:40 +0200
From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>
Subject: Re: one fan running backwards?

Hello

There's nothing more to it! Just reverse the two wires going to the fan and 
that's it. Make sure that both fans move the air from the front towards the 
back (and under) the car. If you can feel the air coming out of the front 
the fan is reversed.
It's that simple  :) 

Tom Niemczewski
tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl -> www.deloreana.com
VIN 6149 (in Poland!)
Save the dream so you can live the dream...


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Duke"

>> After reading the post about which direction the fans should work, I 
>> decided
>> to check my fans and make sure they were working ok.  As it turns out, one
>> fan is pulling the air away from the radiator like its supposed to, 
>> however,
>> the other one is pushing the air towards the radiator.  Once again, I 
>> looked
>> at the wiring at the front of the car and its been 'worked' on in the 
>> past.
>> My question is how to I fix this? Just reverse the wiring on the one fan 
>> or
>> is there something more to it?






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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 15:52:18 -0000
From: "bkp944" <bkp944_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Washer Motor

Your plan is correct Jeremiah, I did the same thing to my car last 
year.

You will need to look out for the usual things that cause problems 
such as corroded hardware and spinning rivnuts.

When you have the reservoir cover out, you will see the wiring
harness 
to the headlamps. It would be a good time to take that connector
apart 
and thoroughly clean and put dielectric grease on the connections.

Be careful when replacing the reservoir cover. It is easy to pinch
the 
washer hose - resulting in no spray (don't ask how I know).

How is the condition of the spray nozzle on your passenger's side 
wiper blade? Most are broken - I replaced mine with a NOS piece.

-Brian
VIN#4494


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:

>> For those of you that have done this repair, can you
>> please share your experience?  I read the manual; it
>> looks to be a straight forward, afternoon kind of job.

<SNIP>







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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 15:53:22 -0000
From: "denverdelorean" <denverdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Headlight Covers

Has anyone purchased or has something to do with the production of 
these?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=4578573471&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

They look like flat, smoked acrylic that is lined with weather 
stripping.

If there is more to them than that, please let me know.

They are 160 after shipping.

Thanks

Matt
16076








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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 09:00:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DeLorean FAQ Fact Sheet - Update


>> From: "Alistair McCann" <pilot25dmc_at_dml_o2.co.uk>
>> Subject: Re: DeLorean FAQ Fact Sheet - Update
>>
>> Any reason why you didnt say that John was dead???
>>


Everybody dies. Not everyone is wrongly accused of dealing cocaine and left to
believe that they were guilty by the media/comedians etc. People usually don't
care if someone is alive or dead, just what they do while they are alive - and
most think he was a cocaine snort'n crook. I would rather try to inform the
masses of his cleared name than just to declare that he is dead. That's just me.
Now to the folks who care... they will usually ask the whereabouts of John now.
And I can tell them that my car and I were present at his wake to see him off. 

If you would like me to customise a version for your display let me know how you
want it worded and I will send you a PDF.


>>
>> Strange you didnt update that part.....
>>


I never said he was alive to begin with  ;-) 

Shannon Y
16506


		
__________________________________ 
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 
http://mail.yahoo.com




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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 16:02:41 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Shift Computer

Check the fluid level and clean (or replace) the filter. It should not
be "sluggish". Finally do the line pressure check.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Eric Itzel" <ericsdmcmail_at_dml_s...> wrote:

>>> >In the midstate club, we haven't had much luck with longevity, though.
>
>> Still working on >that one (right Ron?).
>> 
>> Hey Jake,
>> 
>>in 4433







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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 11:08:43 -0500
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: one fan running backwards?

Well, actually there could be more to it.

I recall Dave Swingle had an issue like this. It turned out that a PO had 
replaced the fan motor with one that looked like a good replacement except 
that it turned the reverse of the factory fan! While it would turn the right 
direction if you simply reversed the wiring that would leave the case of the 
fan motor electrically "hot" in stead of neutral. That would not cause a 
problem normally, but if something that is grounded accidentally touches the 
fan motor case sparks will fly. That would not happen with the correct fan 
installed the correct way.

-Joe Kuchan



>>From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>
>>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>, "\"Duke\"" <at88mph_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
>>Subject: Re: [DML] one fan running backwards?
>>Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 17:36:40 +0200
>>
>>Hello
>>
>>There's nothing more to it! Just reverse the two wires going to the fan and
>>that's it. Make sure that both fans move the air from the front towards the
>>back (and under) the car. If you can feel the air coming out of the front
>>the fan is reversed.
>>It's that simple  :) 
>>
>>Tom Niemczewski
>>tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl -> www.deloreana.com
>>VIN 6149 (in Poland!)
>>Save the dream so you can live the dream...
>>
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Duke"
>
>>> > After reading the post about which direction the fans should work, I
>>> > decided
>>> > to check my fans and make sure they were working ok.  As it turns out, 
>
>>one
>
>>> > fan is pulling the air away from the radiator like its supposed to,
>>> > however,
>>> > the other one is pushing the air towards the radiator.  Once again, I
>>> > looked
>>> > at the wiring at the front of the car and its been 'worked' on in the
>>> > past.
>>> > My question is how to I fix this? Just reverse the wiring on the one fan
>>> > or
>>> > is there something more to it?
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>>
>>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>>Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>







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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 16:10:29 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Washer Motor

I agree, it is the little things that make a car nice. The hood should
"pop" up, the rear sunshade latch should hold, the seatbelts should
retract, all the controls and gauges should work and be accurate, etc.
The biggest problem you will face in fixing the washer pump will be
getting all of those little hex head screws out without having the
rivnuts spinning. Expect the motor to be bad but you MUST check at the
plug to verify power and ground. It could just be full of gunk. It is
easily cleaned out with hot water and rinsing it several times.
Leak-test and operate it before putting ALL the screws back. If you do
not get a good spray either the hose is pinched/kinked, or the tiny
hole in the sprayer tip is plugged up. The job is easier if you jack
the car up and remove the front left tire.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_y...>
wrote:

>> 
>> Ok, here's one I haven't seen much posted about.
>> 
>> As I have been repairing/working on/modifying/fixing
>> the car more and more, I got to thinking among the
>> smaller things, I do not have a properly working
>>








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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 09:15:00 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Fanzilla Clones

Shain,


>> The problem is not the cooling system,  but the instant draw of
>> current two fan motors places on the electrical system when the fans
>> engauge.


As John said, the fans draw less current than a single original fan.
Other vehicles have no problem with the instant draw of a fan coming
on and the DeLorean is no different. I've been running these fans
without any fanzilla type system since early this year and there are
simply no issues.

I also still have my original alternator (Motorola) and no longer have
the headlight dimming problem when the fans come on.

-Ryan


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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 16:26:05 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Washer Motor

The only problem you may have is when it comes time to unbolt 106087, 
the plastic case holding the reservoir in. The bolts may be rusted and 
the little riv nuts sometimes spin so you can't get the bolts out. I 
had to end up cutting mine where the bolt just kept spinning and only 
have 2 bolts holding it up. Hopefully yours isn't in such a bad shape 
as mine was. -----Dani B. #5003






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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 12:36:45 -0400
From: "Josh Haldeman" <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>
Subject: positive DeLorean story about negative shipping problem...

Hey guys,

Thanks partially to the fact that I used to date the assignment editor for our local CBS news station, I got my car and my face on the local news last night in Cincinnati.  Here's a link to the story, (click on "video" to see the fairly positive footage):
http://www.wkrc.com/heyhoward/story.aspx?content_id=6AC9A952-A21F-4A4A-B424-EE9F3A7D459E

Pretty cool...and they got their facts mostly straight!  (woo-hoo)

Josh


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 16:25:04 -0000
From: "Mike Bosworth" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Water pump squeaking. How long have I got?

I agree with David .. Its not just a 'replacing water pump job' its 
all of those things listed in the 'oh and while im in there' category 
Another job is all of the cleaning you end up doing in the 'Valley of 
Death' it can get really grubby in there, especially in the 2 deep 
wells in there, When everythings removed it can look kind of scary 
but nothing that is beyond you. 

Buy a decent small 1/4" drive set with knuckle joint for the manifold 
bolts and soak them in penetrating fluid for a couple of days before, 
give the heads of the same a sharp tap with a hammer before you try 
and get these pesky blighters out  :) 

Write a list up of all the o rings and washers etc you want to 
replace, if you need a list i have one of all the bits i got. Nothing 
worse than starting a job and not having the bits ready.

Replace all of the pump, y pipe and intake manifold bolts with new 
ones copper grease them on replacing them...and buy a 7mm x 1 thread 
tapper to clean up the threads before. 

Good idea to get hold of a 7mm helicoil / drill kit before you start. 
I would say one  manifold bolt and one of the 'long' y pipe bolts 
will give up on you based on my talking to others.

Its a good long weekend job, get a friend to help out if you can 
makes the job more fun and with the bending over the facia count on 
an ackey back  :)  Take lots of photos and lable things up as you go, i 
used a Dymo and carefully tagged the bits ( Most of them are still 
attached 6 months on ...handy references)

Check out Jordan site for references / pics, best online help i have 
ever come across on there....

http://retroserver.no-ip.com/deloreanmain.php

Regards

Mike  
#2001

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_o...> 
wrote:

>> This is a real tough one to answer. It is like going to the doctor 

and

>> asking him "How long have I got Doc?". It can make a noise for a 

long

>> time before the bearing finally seizes up or it may just start
>> leaking. It may leak very slowly for a long time or it may just 

start

>> gushing out. The safe thing to do is to park the car until you can 

fix

>> it. You are gambling with the life of the engine and it can get
>> expensive if you
>> were to overheat it. Not to mention the towing bill. The bottom 

line,

>> there is no "typical" time to failure. This is also why, when you 

are

>> replacing ALL the seals and hoses you just replace the water pump.
>> After 20 + years you cannot expect it to last much longer and it is
>> not a simple remove-and-replace like on most other cars. The other
>> possability is one of the idler bearings for the A/C is failing. Run
>> the motor without the A/C belt and see if the noise goes away. If it
>> doesn't it "could" be the alternator, not the water pump. Plan for 

and

>> expect at least 1 bolt to break, either on the intake manifold or 

the

>> water distribution pipe. If it is your first time it is a long 1 day
>> project. Take notes and pictures for routing and placement of hoses,
>> wires, etc. Be especially careful with those pesky copper washers. 

If

>> you drop them you cannot get them with a magnet and you MUST be sure
>> they are all in there when reassembling or you will have leaks. If 

you

>> are not very flexible it is easier if you remove the engine cover.
>> While you are in there you should also replace the spark plugs,
>> ignition wires, cap, and rotor, idler bearings and belts. For a
>> complete job replace the injector seals, vacuum hoses, have the fuel
>> injectors tested and cleaned, air filter, adjust the valves, replace
>> the O2 sensor and reset the mixture. When done change the oil and 

oil

>> filter. As you can see this can turn into a large job best left for
>> the winter if possible.
>> David Teitelbaum
>> vin 10757
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jason Ferrara <jason_at_dml_d...> wrote:
>
>>> > I noticed a whirring noise (like a bearing is starting to fail)  
>>> > coming from the engine. I removed the belts to check things, and  
>>> > found that if I turn the water pump by hand it squeaks a bit. 

I'm  

>>> > assuming thats a bad sign and that its time for a new water pump.
>>> > 
>>> > So, my question is, typically how long after a water pump starts  
>>> >








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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 10:17:13 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Wiring in some extra juice

Not sure, I'll have to look - it's been awhile since I was in there.

If I recall correctly, the top of my battery compartment does have a
plastic panel. I know there is a ceiling in there. However, I don't
think it was part of a big molded box, and there was space to get
around it. There wasn't a hole that I can recall, but rather the panel
wasn't completely sealed in - like it wasn't quite big enough.

I believe I slipped the wire through the upper right front (when
facing the fuse box - top of the battery compartment, toward the
driver's side and front of the car). I remember there was room to get
my fingers through there. When I dug around the bundle of wires to the
right (driver's side) of the fusebox I could touch my fingers coming
up through the battery compartment.

-Ryan


On 9/27/05, Greg Zapf <x86Daddy_at_dml_gmail.com> wrote:

>> Wow... I think we've found another vehicle difference:  Mine has a
>> plastic panel as the ceiling of the battery compartment.  I've
>> uploaded a photo to the Yahoo group (last photo in main folder:
>> "#2894's battery box ceiling").  Here's an attempt at a link:
>>
>> http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/groups/g_1154320/__hr_%232894%27s+battery+box+ceiling.jpg?bcLddODBfbPNCnSr
>>
>> That green stuff seems to be an epoxy of some sort.  So, does your D
>> have a plastic panel with a hole in it, or no plastic panel, or what?
>>
>> --Greg
>> #2894



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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 11:56:44 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Fuse 8 & 2 have no power?

Duke, Power to #2 comes from #8 and power to # 8 comes from the headlight
switch when depressed. The switch gets it's power from the source via the
brown / purple wire. Check the power going into the back of the switch
before depressed and then when depressed check the other terminal for power.
I fix these all the time and normally it's dirty or the plastic center shaft
isn't centered properly and the transfer won't happen. 
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com

 

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Duke
Sent: Wednesday, September 28, 2005 8:40 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Fuse 8 & 2 have no power?

As my wiring woes continue, I went to turn on my lights the other day (this 
is before I started working on repairing the relay compartment) and my dash 
didn't light up.  I also didn't have any side, rear lights either.  Only 
headlights.

I then checked the fuses in the relay compartment with a test light and 
found that fuse 8 & 2 had no power at all.  I then took the cover off to 
gain access to the headlight switch in the dash and I swapped out the 
headlight switch thinking that might be the problem but that didn't work.

I then put the cover back on and tried it again and it was working?  I 
didn't touch anything but I decided to try wiggling the wires behind the 
dash at the headlight switch (thinking it might be a loose connection) but 
it never went out.

The next day I tried it again and it didn't work yet again.  Checked the 
fuses and no power to 8 & 2.  Any ideas?

I've finished up the relay compartment rewiring (but it didn't involve the 
fuse box; just relays) and the lights are working fine now, but I'm just 
worried if I'm out one night and they stop.  I'd like to figure out what is 
causing the prob.

Thanks,

Duke





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