Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2918
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:8 Oct 2005 18:59:17 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Re: DMCH's Performance Exhaust
From: "Stephen M. Jones" <smj_at_dml_cirr.com>

2. Re: more technical help needed
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

3. DMC Maryland
From: Chuck McKnight <gullwingdoors_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. Re: more technical help needed
From: "delorean6859" <tmadsop_at_dml_comcast.net>

5. Re: Nostalgic DMC Video
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

6. Re: Clock repaired - thanks DML
From: Dan Haney <DRHANEY_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

7. ?? Separating Tie rod end from steering knuckle, HOW?
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>

8. Re: Nostalgic DMC Video
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

9. Abandoned in Vegas
From: "secret_jedi_guy" <secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. You too can own some DeLorean stock...
From: "gbsdelorean" <gbsdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. DMC Netherlands lowering springs and shock kit
From: "Jeremy" <thesmokingman_at_dml_comcast.net>

12. RE: Re: Nostalgic DMC Video
From: "Chris Hawes" <chris_at_dml_chawes.demon.co.uk>

13. Re: New Owner in Memphis?
From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>

14. RE: I'm Looking for a Drivers Side Rear Quarter Panel (without dents)
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

15. Looking for the definative LED Taillight part numbers
From: "delorean6859" <tmadsop_at_dml_comcast.net>

16. RE: DMC Netherlands lowering springs and shock kit
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

17. A/C Recharge Success!
From: "John Spangler" <johnspangler_at_dml_netzero.net>

18. Re: ?? Separating Tie rod end from steering knuckle, HOW?
From: Japheth Deaux <secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_yahoo.com>

19. Re: ?? Separating Tie rod end from steering knuckle, HOW?
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

20. Request for DMC at community event Halloween eve near Portland
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>

21. Re: ?? Separating Tie rod end from steering knuckle, HOW?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

22. Re: ?? Separating Tie rod end from steering knuckle, HOW?
From: "Rex" <sephiroth_at_dml_merriman.com>

23. Re: Clock repaired - thanks DML
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

24. Re: Abandoned in Vegas
From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

25. RE: Looking for the definitive LED Taillight part numbers
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2005 16:37:28 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Stephen M. Jones" <smj_at_dml_cirr.com>
Subject: Re: Re: DMCH's Performance Exhaust

matt writes:


>> I still would like to hear a sound sample.  Anyone got a recorder?


I could make a stereo recording with my minidisc this weekend .. I had
the exhaust done with the HP197 mod in 2000.  It really makes the car
sound bigger than it actually is.   :) 
 




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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 07 Oct 2005 23:35:55 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: more technical help needed

Check out the vacuum hoses for the warm-up regulater and the
distributer advance. You may have knocked something loose. Also check
the plug that goes to the vacuum solenoid for the advance. You can
check that the mechanical AND vacuum advance is working correctly with
that timing light. Your mixture could also be off or you might just
have a vacuum leak.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "delorean6859" <tmadsop_at_dml_c...> wrote:

>>
>> Thanks everyone for the timing advice.  I was a little disappointed

I wasn't able to burn the first few layers of skin off, think of the
lack of fingerprint marks on the stainless from not having sweat
glands and fingerprints anymore after adjusting the timing at
operating temperatures.

>> 
>> 








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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2005 15:43:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chuck McKnight <gullwingdoors_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: DMC Maryland

Just thought I'd let everyone know, DMC Maryland has expanded so owners/entusiasts from Maryland, New Jersey, Delaware, Washington D.C., Virginia, West Virginia, and Pennsylvania may join.  You're still welcome to if you haven't allready.


Chuck McKnight 

DMC Maryland - for all De Lorean owners and/or enthusiasts in Maryland, New Jersey, Delaware, Washington D.C., Virginia, West Virginia, and Pennsylvania.

		
---------------------------------
Yahoo! for Good
 Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort. 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 07 Oct 2005 23:39:26 -0000
From: "delorean6859" <tmadsop_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: more technical help needed

Thanks for the info.  Here is the additional curveball.  In some of my
previous postings I outlined some of the boneheaded moves the previous
owner made.  One of them was replace a fuse taht I assumed to
continually blow with a higher amperage fuse.  He continued to
"upgrade" this fuse until it was a 30 Amp fuse.  I discovered this by
going through my car with a fine tooth comb and inspecting every fuse
was and insuring they were the proper rating.  The first clue was the
existance of one blown 30 amp fuse in the fuse box.  The additional
evidence was the fact that this fuse was WAY over what the recommended
rating was. And that fuse.........controlled among other things the
diagnostic plug.  I looked at the diagnostic plug to see that the
pickup wire and everything else were a melted mass of shorted wires
and plastic.  Sooooo the dwell meter may not be a current option.

The mixture screw has been tampered with.  In fact, I dialed it back
because the car had been backfiring on deceleration and when ever I
took my foot off of the gas and then reapplied it. I dialed it back
and that was eliminated.  I think it may need readjustment as a result
of the tune-up and the removal of the metering unit.  This screw may
have been moved when I change the gaskets.

Thanks! I'll let you know!

Nate

>>> > But if I started it to put it on the ramps and shut
>>> > it off then tried restarting it, it sounded almost
>>> > like the starter was engaging for about three
>>> > seconds too long, it would sputter for a few seconds
>>> > then die.  Subsequent attempts at starting resulted
>>> > in it just cranking.  Leave it for half an hour and
>>> > it would start right up.  
>
>> 
>> This to me sounds like the air/fuel ratio is out of
>> whack.  Not badly, but just needs to be "tuned".  My
>> car used to do this.  It would sputter and almost hold
>> on, then just die.  Cranking it like that can flood





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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 08 Oct 2005 01:19:27 -0000
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Nostalgic DMC Video

Greg,
Unfortunately those are Not Future Delorean SS panels,But just 
Mercedes S Series Front Fenders of that Time area(Made from what 
seems like Stainless Steel)Either Mercedes SL SLC or SEL Series,I 
just wonder if they were ever used on a Mercedes(after they were 
taken off the wall)(I know those cars(Mercedes) quite well) or if a 
Complete Mercedes of that era was made Stainless Steel,anybody know?
cbl



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Greg Zapf <x86Daddy_at_dml_g...> wrote:

>>
>> Did anyone else notice the wall with various right front quarter
>> panels, presumably different iterations of the design process?  The
>> middle two (seen 52 seconds in) have some alternate, rather 

futuristic

>> looks to them; the top, shorter one looks like some of the modern
>> designs out right now!
>> 
>> --Greg
>> #2894
>> 
>> On 10/3/05, cbl1739 <cbl302_at_dml_s...> wrote:
>
>>> > the general public! The mystery thing in the video is: Was that 

frame

>>> > on the Tellas(remote assembly line car transporter)towards the
>>> > beginning of the video,I swear that frame is Stainless Steel! It 

also

>>> > has a very different front frame extension.
>
>> 
>
>>>>> > > > http://www.dmc-delorean.de/videos/dmcfabrik.wmv
>
>>









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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2005 23:07:52 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dan Haney <DRHANEY_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: Clock repaired - thanks DML


>>From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
>>Subject: RE: Clock repaired - thanks DML
>>
>>Greg, That's great. I'll do that on the next clock sent in for repair. By,
>>the way, were picking up a car for a lot of restoration work and would you
>>believe the clock was working. 1st one I have seen in a while that was
>>working.
>>John Hervey



John,

You saw my car about 2 years ago and the clock has always worked and keeps excellent time.

But there are several other parts with a history for failure that I would like some feedback on.

I still have the original Angle drive and it has been very reliably but will probably break tommorow now that I mention it. I have never lubricated it (Since 1985 - If it ain't broke why fix it!)! I know some of us have replaced this thing many times! Any ideas whY?? The only speedometer problem I've ever had was while replacing the front springs/shocks I broke the fitting off the original lower Speedo cable, otherwise my whole system from the gauge to the wheel would be original after 50K miles and 24 years!


Also I just now after 24 years need to replace the original struts for my Bonnet and Louvers! I'd say that is superior longevity!  Anyone else still looking at original struts??

Dan Haney
3254




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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2005 22:15:43 -0500
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>
Subject: ?? Separating Tie rod end from steering knuckle, HOW?

I'm trying to replace the boots on the tie rod end.  But I can't separate
the tie rod end from the steering knuckle.

Does anyone have any good suggestions?

It is soaking in WD40 and I've been tapping it with a hammer.

Thanks,

Nick





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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 08 Oct 2005 04:49:09 -0000
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Nostalgic DMC Video


Is there a FULL length Version of this Video as I WOULD love to buy a copy, :Dor is it just the 3 minute video the whole thing  :( 

CBL

 

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_s...> wrote:

>>>>>> > > > > http://www.dmc-delorean.de/videos/dmcfabrik.wmv
>>
>>> >
>
>>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 08 Oct 2005 03:47:26 -0000
From: "secret_jedi_guy" <secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Abandoned in Vegas

This is mostly to all Las Vegas owners on the list, but anyone else 
is welcome to chime in.

I got a tip from work the other day that there was a D' parked in a 
guy's driveway on Jones near Rancho.  It's kind of down the street 
from a U-Haul depot and carwash. I was kind of skeptical at first as 
to whether it really was a D' so I went to have a look.  Sure enough 
sitting in the Las Vegas sun for what looks like 5+ years is another 
sad Delorean surrounded by garbage cans and filled with other 
people's car parts.  The windshield is broken and the glass is heat 
fogged pretty good, the interior as far as I could tell was full of 
dirt and dust.  The dash, binnacle, center console all seemed to be 
in 1 peice and intact though.  Nothing in the interior was 
dismantled, it just had other car parts in it.  It looks like at 
some point the seats were changed over to cloth instead of leather 
or they are just so worn it looks like cloth.  I couldn't really 
tell if it was a 5-speed or auto there was a bunch of other stuff on 
top of the shifter.

The body is in great shape.  The stainless has less dings and 
scratches than my car!  The front and rear fascias are intact and 
undamaged.  The wheels are the best looking things on the car.  In 
fact they look brand new, but the tires are all flat and heat worn.  
The only noticeable hitch in the body is one of the plastic panels 
under the driver door is hanging off.  Not too hard to fix since it 
just hanging off and still in one piece.

These are all observations I made at a quick once over since I 
didn't want the person to think I was casing his driveway and I was 
on a lunchbreak so I didn't get the VIN off of it.  However, I am 
thinking of going back and offering to take this car off of his 
hands since it is obvious he doesn't know what the heck he has got!  
I feel bad to see another DMC die such an ignaminious death.  Who 
knows maybe it's one of the missing VIN# 500's.  Can't remember if 
it is 530 that is said to not exist or another one.  Doubtful but 
there is still hope.  In which case I would have 2 Deloreans and I 
would be picking this one up on the anniversary of owning my first.

By the way in case anyone is intereseted VIN# 1223 is in great 
running condition.  The engine loves me and my new cold air 
breather.  All it really needs is some electrical work; the dash, 
binnacle and seats need to be recovered.  Needs new window motors 
and switches and an AC overhaul.  With that it would be almost as 
good as new.

Japheth 

VIN: 1223  







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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 08 Oct 2005 03:20:48 -0000
From: "gbsdelorean" <gbsdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: You too can own some DeLorean stock...

Memorabilia
The problem I see with collecting stock certificates, DeLorean in 
particular, is that:   
#1 The NYSE did not allow the company to issue stock.
#2 The stock certificate does not have Delorean's signature on it.
#3 The stock certificate is generic.  By that I mean the logo 
engraving is used by many companies - they simply drop their name in 
on the mast heading.  Now if it had DeLorean's portrait and the car 
manufacturing plant in the background with an authentic signature, 
then it would really be something...
But then again I am sure there are things I collect...

   







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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 08 Oct 2005 09:24:08 -0000
From: "Jeremy" <thesmokingman_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: DMC Netherlands lowering springs and shock kit

I've decided to lower my DeLorean and change out the shocks in favor
of something that provides better performance. I drive my car hard and
I need a suspension that is firm, gives excellent road feel, and is
stable during very hard cornering.

I've looked at Houston's and Rob Grady's setups and I don't think they
are right for my car (although I am still considering the DMCH Eibach
springs). 

I was referred to Ed Uding's DMC Netherland site and their adjustable
power shocks (Article SB003) and lowering springs (Article VS004). 

http://www.dmc-service.nl

The shocks look very nice and the springs claim to be a bit stiffer
than the OEM ones. If I decide to go this route, I will either go with
the full DMC Netherlands kit, or a combination of Netherland shocks
and DMCH Eibach springs.

I'd love to hear some impressions from owners who are running this
setup on their car before I take the plunge. 

Jeremy Delaney
10842










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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2005 10:31:07 +0100
From: "Chris Hawes" <chris_at_dml_chawes.demon.co.uk>
Subject: RE: Re: Nostalgic DMC Video

I believe the company that manufactured the stainless steel panels was
German.  The panels on display were from various German cars of the time and
at least one of the wing's on display was from the Audi 100 of the time.
The reason if I remember from something I read is that the panels were for
experimentation of Stainless steel, aluminium and various brushed effect
finishes.

Regards,

Chris Hawes

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
cbl1739
Sent: 08 October 2005 02:19
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Nostalgic DMC Video

Greg,
Unfortunately those are Not Future Delorean SS panels,But just 
Mercedes S Series Front Fenders of that Time area(> > the general public! The mystery thing in the video is: Was that 
frame

>>> > on the Tellas(remote assembly line car transporter)towards the
>>> > beginning of the video,I swear that frame is Stainless Steel! It 

also

>>> > has a very different front frame extension.
>
>> 
>
>>>>> > > > http://www.dmc-delorean.de/videos/dmcfabrik.wmv
>
>>










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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2005 22:20:12 -0500
From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>
Subject: Re: New Owner in Memphis?

Good to meet you Chris.  We'll have to get together sometime so our D's can 
reunite...

Lingo #2034

Chris wrote:

>>
>> I'm in Jackson. about an hour east on I40. But it definatly wasn't me
>> because my D is currently in pieces, plus i'll probably get new seat
>> covers from DMCH whenever I get that far.
>>
>> --
>>
>> Chris
>> VIN# 03209






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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2005 10:26:34 -0400
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: RE: I'm Looking for a Drivers Side Rear Quarter Panel (without dents)

Jason,

I would like to take the opportunity to let you, and the group, know that
our facility excels at stainless repair but should repair not be cost
effective you can chose from new, used, or refurbished panels in stock and
at fair prices. We guarantee your satisfaction or your money back.

Rob Grady

P.J.Grady Inc. 

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Jason Perkins
Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2005 11:26 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] I'm Looking for a Drivers Side Rear Quater Panel (without
dents)

I thought I would ask the group first, before I buy one from one of the
vendors.  My lovely wife decided that the current rear quarter panel
needed to be rammed by her car  :-) 

If anyone has one that they are willing to part with, please let me
know.

Thanks,
Jason Perkins
Charlotte, NC.
Jasperkins_at_dml_hotmail.com

  




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-- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.8/113 - Release Date: 9/27/2005
-- Internal Virus Database is out-of-date. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.8/113 - Release Date: 9/27/2005 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 15 Date: Sat, 08 Oct 2005 14:26:43 -0000 From: "delorean6859" <tmadsop_at_dml_comcast.net> Subject: Looking for the definative LED Taillight part numbers OK, in my ongoing project to upgrade 6859 into a 21st century RELIABLE Delorean, I have ordered the PJ Grady Tail light boards. In those boards I would like to install LED's. I have seen numerous posts on part numbers for all of the other LED replacements except tail lights. Who has 'em? Does anyone have experience with the LED electronic flasher unit being sold on Superbrightleds.com? I am toying with leaving the turn signals and reverse lights incandescent. I ordered a third bake light for a Hummer H2, it hasn't been mounted yet but by placing it on the louvers, it sure looks SWEET! 16 inches of third brake light, baby! Thanks, Nate ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 16 Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2005 11:17:13 -0400 From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com> Subject: RE: DMC Netherlands lowering springs and shock kit Jeremy, I want to let you know that we are currently using the same shock and Eibach spring setup as DMCH and at the same price. Our previous supplier raised their price by seventy five percent when we went to re-order so we dropped that supplier. Unfortunately there has been a price increase on these shocks as well by the manufacturer but we are sticking with them because it's a proven setup. This is the first I've heard of Ed's setup so I can't comment on it's merit's but I can say if there is any warranty issues the customs and freight situation would be complicated and very expensive. Just food for thought but Ed's setup does at least sound interesting. Rob Grady P.J.Grady Inc. -----Original Message----- From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jeremy Sent: Saturday, October 08, 2005 5:24 AM To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com Subject: [DML] DMC Netherlands lowering springs and shock kit I've decided to lower my DeLorean and change out the shocks in favor of something that provides better performance. I drive my car hard and I need a suspension that is firm, gives excellent road feel, and is stable during very hard cornering. I've looked at Houston's and Rob Grady's setups and I don't think they are right for my car (although I am still considering the DMCH Eibach springs). I was referred to Ed Uding's DMC Netherland site and their adjustable power shocks (Article SB003) and lowering springs (Article VS004). http://www.dmc-service.nl ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 17 Date: Sat, 08 Oct 2005 15:25:08 -0000 From: "John Spangler" <johnspangler_at_dml_netzero.net> Subject: A/C Recharge Success! Most of the time we just post our problems to the board so I thought I'd share a nice refreshing success story. I bought my '81 about 2 months ago and it was completely devoid of any refrigerant for who knows how long (PO lived in Ohio). I finally got the courage to drive it across town to get the A/C pressure tested to see what parts I needed to order. Much to my delight and surprise, it held a charge on the first try and blows icy cold. The R12 was pricey but not having to monkey with anything else was worth it, and this ought to last for a long time. Makes for a completely different driving experience in AZ. Now I can start making good on my promises of giving rides. -John #5572 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 18 Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2005 08:51:57 -0700 (PDT) From: Japheth Deaux <secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_yahoo.com> Subject: Re: ?? Separating Tie rod end from steering knuckle, HOW? Great question Nick, as I just recently replaced my own steering rack I'll tell you what you need. The cheapest way to do it is to get a "pickle fork" or tie-rod tool. Any Checker, Autozone or Pep-boys should have one. It looks like an oversized tuning fork. Mak sure you get one that says it's a tie-rod end removal tool though because there are different sizes. The fork is wedged and has a long handle. You have to use a hammer to tap the end of the handle to wedge the fork between the boot and the steering knuckle then you just use it as a leaver and pop the tie rod out and it will pop. Depending on how old the boots are you may just want to replace the tie rod ends all together. The other method is to use and air hammer with a similar kind of attatchment to the pickle fork but it pops the tie rods out with less of a fuss. Japheth VIN: 1223 --- Nick Kemp <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net> wrote:

>> I'm trying to replace the boots on the tie rod end. 
>> But I can't separate
>> the tie rod end from the steering knuckle.
>> 
>> Does anyone have any good suggestions?
>> 





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Message: 19
Date: Sat, 08 Oct 2005 16:06:39 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: ?? Separating Tie rod end from steering knuckle, HOW?

This will tear up the boots - generic urethane replacements are 
available just about anywhere, but I agree that if the car has many 
miles on it just replace the whole tie rod end. 

Another route on this is to unscrew the locknut on the tie rod end and 
just back the tie rod out of the end. You need to mark and measure 
everything, count the exposed threads etc or you'll be visiting the 
front-end-alignment guy when you are done. 

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Japheth Deaux <secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:

>>
>> Great question Nick,  as I just recently replaced my
>> own steering rack I'll tell you what you need.  The
>> cheapest way to do it is to get a "pickle fork" or
>> tie-rod tool.  Any Checker, Autozone or Pep-boys
>> should have one.  It looks like an oversized tuning
>> fork.  Mak sure you get one that says it's a tie-rod
>> end removal tool though because there are different
>> sizes.  
>> 
>> 








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Message: 20
Date: Sat, 08 Oct 2005 16:51:57 -0000
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>
Subject: Request for DMC at community event Halloween eve near Portland

Hi Folks,

I received a request from a group that is organizing a community event 
on halloween evening 6-8pm in the general Portland, Oregon area for a 
DeLorean to be out front of their event. Their event theme is 
apparently "Back to the Future" and they want to arrange it to be nice 
for the kids. I'm on vacation during that time and cann't be 
avaialble, but if there is anyone else in the area that is willing to 
park their car out front of their event facilities for a couple hours 
on Halloween evening, please contact me off list and I'll give you the 
information to contact the organizers directly.

  Knut








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Message: 21
Date: Sat, 08 Oct 2005 16:56:55 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: ?? Separating Tie rod end from steering knuckle, HOW?

The "pickle fork" does damage the seal and it can potentially damage
the tie rod end too. Not a big deal if you are replacing the parts but
definately bad news if you are trying to save things. It is fast so
most shops use them because they are replacing everything anyway.
There are 2 other ways you can separate the tie rod end. Back up the
knuckle where the tie rod end attaches with a jackstand so it can't
move, remove the nut, turn it over and thread it back on so it is
flush with the end of the threads. Now WHACK it HARD and STRAIGHT with
a HEAVY hammer. One shot should loosen it. This can also damage the
tie rod end. The "safest" way is to use a tie rod seperator that looks
like a puller. You tighten up the center screw and shock it with a
hammer. Even these can damage the seal so in all cases you have to
figure at least replacing the seals. If you do replace the tie rod end
figure on getting an alignment. You will not be able to count the
turns and put the new one in, you can be off a 1/2 a thread and that
is a lot. If the old end is loose or sloppy it should be replaced.
When replacing make sure the taper is VERY CLEAN on the tie rod end
and inside the knuckle. It must fit very tightly or it will loosen up. 
   There are 2 alignment adjustments here, toe and centering the
steering wheel. You cannot do this accurately without a machine. You
also cannot do it accurately with worn parts. There should be NO play
in the steering, it should not "lead" to either side on a smooth road,
no heavy vibrations, and the steering wheel is supposed to be centered
when going straight. If your car does not drive like that you have a
problem that has to be fixed before you can have an alignment. Look at
the tires and see how they are wearing and check the pressures.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:

>>
>> This will tear up the boots - generic urethane replacements are 
>> available just about anywhere, but I agree that if the car has many 
>> miles on it just replace the whole tie rod end. 
>> 
>> Another route on this is to unscrew the locknut on the tie rod end and 
>> just back the tie rod out of the end. You need to mark and measure 
>> everything, count the exposed threads etc or you'll be visiting the 
>> front-end-alignment guy when you are done. 
>> 
>> Dave Swingle
>> 
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Japheth Deaux <secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_y...> 









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Message: 22
Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2005 13:06:01 -0400
From: "Rex" <sephiroth_at_dml_merriman.com>
Subject: Re: ?? Separating Tie rod end from steering knuckle, HOW?

General procedure im used to doing, im sorry if its different with a D.

If it has a castle nut on it, flip the castle nut upside down, screw it back 
on just enough so it catches the thread a few turns and bang it with a 
hammer...

Rex

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>
To: "Delorean Mailing List (DML)" <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, October 07, 2005 11:15 PM
Subject: [DML] ?? Separating Tie rod end from steering knuckle, HOW?



>> I'm trying to replace the boots on the tie rod end.  But I can't separate
>> the tie rod end from the steering knuckle.
>>
>> Does anyone have any good 





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Message: 23
Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2005 10:12:42 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Clock repaired - thanks DML

My clock works great. Keeps perfect time, too. I hope it stays that
way, I really like it.  :) 

-Ryan

On 10/7/05, John Hervey <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com> wrote:

>> Greg, That's great. I'll do that on the next clock sent in for repair. By,
>> the way, were picking up a car for a lot of restoration work and would you
>> believe the clock was working. 1st one I have seen in a while that was
>> working.
>> John Hervey
>>



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Message: 24
Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2005 18:16:59 +0100 (BST)
From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Abandoned in Vegas

Hey hopefully you do get it, and save it! 
I dont understand why people treat these cars in this way. My car was a mess when I got it (Texas), and a year on from ownership, it is starting to look half decent!
 
Good luck, keep us updated!
 
Thomas Mc Auley
Vin #4087
Belfast

secret_jedi_guy <secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
This is mostly to all Las Vegas owners on the list, but anyone else 
is welcome to chime in.

I got a tip from work the other day that there was a D' parked in a 
guy's driveway on Jones near Rancho.




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Message: 25
Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2005 14:51:38 -0400
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: RE: Looking for the definitive LED Taillight part numbers

Nate & the DML group,

Thank you for purchasing our circuit boards. Over the years since we
introduced (1994 I believe) them we have sold well over a thousand of our
"Life-Time" guarantee boards which fortunately for us have proven to be
extremely reliable. Our warranty rate is less than one percent compared to
an approximately seventy five percent failure rate (My best guess-timate!)
of the stock boards. If you've never had a problem with your taillights your
boards probably have our name on them!

We have had inquires about making special LED specific boards available and
have considered offering them but haven't come across any that appear to
satisfy the lighting requirements involved. If anyone is aware of some LED's
that would be bright enough we'd like to hear about it.

Another issue is would there be sufficient demand as it would appear many
DMLers prefer to patch up their old boards rather than invest in a superior
product. I don't mean to slight anyone on the list for being thrifty but I'm
not sure the demand would be there to make an LED equipped board justifiable
in cost verses demand. Perhaps a poll would shed more light on the subject
(No pun intended)?

BTW we've just received a large quantity of our circuit boards and, for a
limited time while supply lasts, will offer them for $98.00 a pair.

Anyone who's "on the fence" about buying them might want to reconsider  now
as this is the first time in eleven years that we've offered them for under
one hundred dollars. If you order the boards (Part# 110488G) via our website
just type in $98.00 under "special instructions" to receive the discounted
price.

Thank you,

Rob Grady 
P.J.Grady Inc.

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
delorean6859
Sent: Saturday, October 08, 2005 10:27 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Looking for the definative LED Taillight part numbers

OK, in my ongoing project to upgrade 6859 into a 21st century RELIABLE
Delorean, I have ordered the PJ Grady Tail light boards. 




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