Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2921
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:9 Oct 2005 21:20:25 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 23 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Carfax
From: "Matthew P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>

2. Re: Looking for the definitive LED Taillight part numbers
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

3. Mobile, AL Delorean Rental
From: "tuxr" <tuxdarby_at_dml_msn.com>

4. Re: Separating Tie Rod end from steering knuckle, HOW ?
From: wingd2_at_dml_aol.com

5. Video - "Car Crash - the DeLorean Story"
From: "gbsdelorean" <gbsdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Re: DMCH's Performance Exhaust
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>

7. Re: Re: DMC Netherlands lowering springs and shock kit
From: Patrick Conlon <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>

8. RE: ?? Separating Tie rod end from steering knuckle, HOW?
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

9. Re: I hate my doors
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

10. Re: DMCH's Performance Exhaust
From: "dmc_5180" <dmc_5180_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. RE: Fir tree replacements?
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

12. Sloppy Shifting / High Idle / Shock replacement
From: Erik Geerdink <dmcerik_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Re: 10989 update
From: "Josh Porter" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>

14. RE: Re: DMC Maryland
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

15. Re: Looking for the definitive LED Taillight part numbers
From: "Mike Bosworth" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>

16. Re: Tie rod end tool
From: "Stephen Card" <stephen_at_dml_procomroofing.com>

17. Re: Looking for the definative LED Taillight part numbers
From: "Mike Bosworth" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>

18. Re: Nostalgic DMC Video
From: "S" <theborderisopen_at_dml_yahoo.com>

19. Re: ?? Separating Tie rod end from steering knuckle, HOW?
From: Josh Keady <joshkeady_at_dml_msn.com>

20. Re: Re: DMCH's Performance Exhaust
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>

21. RE: Re: Tie rod end tool
From: "Gary Hull" <Specialty_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>

22. Re: DMCH's Performance Exhaust
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>

23. Re: DMCH's Performance Exhaust
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2005 23:16:55 -0700
From: "Matthew P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>
Subject: Carfax

Ok,
        Couldn't find the last carfax post so I have to clog your boxes.
Does anyone still have an open carfax account to run a VIN for me?

Thanks!

Matt Olans
VIN 16816






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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 09 Oct 2005 12:06:43 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Looking for the definitive LED Taillight part numbers

Hi Rob

I'm one of thsoe Thrifty ones  :-)  Seriously there's  reason you probably 
haven't sold many "across the pond" and it's because on your replacement 
boards, the modification to run the inner lights as fog lights (which is 
part of the original design of the board and the plug - the un-used pin 
in the connector) is not there and the tracks on the board are much 
harder to modify. For those who don't know, it's a requirement over here 
to have high intensity focused red lights which can be turned on 
independently. The inner brakelights on the D -are- actually foglights - 
if you look at the beam pattern, they're not the same as the outer ones.

The original boards can be patched up quite successfully as far as those 
pesky rivets on the bulb holders go, but the connector where the plug 
goes onto the board still causes problems.

Martin

rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com wrote:


>>Another issue is would there be sufficient demand as it would appear many
>>DMLers prefer to patch up their old boards rather than invest in a superior
>>product. I don't mean to slight anyone on the list for being thrifty but 
>>

<snip>






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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 09 Oct 2005 14:51:17 -0000
From: "tuxr" <tuxdarby_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Mobile, AL Delorean Rental

I got an e-mail from an events coordinator in the Mobile, Alabama area 
that might need a Delorean to rent for events.  I don't get up to 
Alabama, don't go that far to rent mine.  E-mail me off line and I'll 
give you the contact information if anyone is interested in renting 
their car for events in that area.







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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 9 Oct 2005 11:38:44 EDT
From: wingd2_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Separating Tie Rod end from steering knuckle, HOW ?

One other way that causes the least amount of damage to any of the parts is 
to remove the nut and take a big hammer and hold it up against one side of the 
steering arm where the tie rod stud goes thru. Now take another hammer and 
smack the opposite side of the steering arm. The tie rod stud is actually tapered 
and the hole in the steering arm is tapered to match. By smacking one side of 
the steering arm while holding a hammer on the opposite side, you will cause 
the tapered hole in the steering arm to flex/go oval just enough to release 
the stud. I've found this method to work about 50% of the time. Sometimes the 
parts are pulled together just to tight for this to work, but I always try it 
first because it causes no damage to any of the parts. 

   Marty


<  In a message dated 10/8/2005 2:01:09 PM Central Standard Time, 
   From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: ?? Separating Tie rod end from steering knuckle, HOW?

The "pickle fork" does damage the seal and it can potentially damage
the tie rod end too. Not a big deal if you are replacing the parts but
definitely bad news if you are trying to save things.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 09 Oct 2005 16:06:02 -0000
From: "gbsdelorean" <gbsdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Video - "Car Crash - the DeLorean Story"

Any way of finding a copy?

Disclaimer: (Without violating anyones copywrite laws?)








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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 09 Oct 2005 16:39:30 -0000
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: DMCH's Performance Exhaust

Dennis,
Does it replace everything like DMCH's system or just a few parts?

Matt
VIN: 2953

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmc_5180" <dmc_5180_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>> I am currently experimenting with a drop in polished stainless 
>> replacement that sounds better and is freer flowing.
>> 
>> Dennis








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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2005 23:23:33 -0400
From: Patrick Conlon <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Re: DMC Netherlands lowering springs and shock kit

I second what Dennis just said.  On bumps, cracks, and railroad  
tracks the car will be quite bumpy and stiff with the DMCH shocks and  
springs. On smooth curvy  roads, the car handles and rides like a dream.

-Patrick C.
1880


On Oct 8, 2005, at 10:25 PM, dmc_5180 wrote:


>> Jeremy,
>>
>> I have the DMCH suspension set up  and the ride is very firm and  
>> corners like it's on rails
>> this is mostly because their  rear shocks are quite stiff. if you  
>> have smooth twisty black top
>> roads in your area you will love them. if you drive on roads with  
>> cracks and bumps as
>> there are in my area you will hate them, because of the stiff rear  
>> shocks. unfortunately this
>> shock set up recently doubled in price.
>>
>> Dennis




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 9 Oct 2005 14:25:47 -0400
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: RE: ?? Separating Tie rod end from steering knuckle, HOW?

Rex,

That's an old trick I also used to utilize too but since the DeLorean came
from the factory with Nylock nuts I would substitute a regular 3/8"-24 hex
nut as the "sacrificial lamb". Now I have a T.R. removal tool that protects
the boot while you screw the (adjustable threaded) stud. I'll leave a
picture of that to your imagination  :)  It's made by "Stahlwille" and the
part number is #12616. I've had the tool at least twenty years so I don't
know if it's still available or the cost but that company's prices are more
comparable to Snap-On than Sears if you know what I mean. Over the years
that little tool has saved hundreds of DeLorean T.R. boots from an early
demise. The most important thing however is to use a NEW Nyloc nut to
re-secure the tie-rod as it's the only thing keeping you from a rather
sudden unintended change of direction!

Rob Grady,

P.J.Grady Inc.
-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Rex
Sent: Saturday, October 08, 2005 1:06 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] ?? Separating Tie rod end from steering knuckle, HOW?

General procedure im used to doing, im sorry if its different with a D.

If it has a castle nut on it, flip the castle nut upside down, screw it back

on just enough so it catches the thread a few turns and bang it with a 
hammer...

Rex

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>
To: "Delorean Mailing List (DML)" <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, October 07, 2005 11:15 PM
Subject: [DML] ?? Separating Tie rod end from steering knuckle, HOW?



>> I'm trying to replace the boots on the tie rod end.  But I can't separate
>> the tie rod end from the steering knuckle.







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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 9 Oct 2005 11:51:16 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: I hate my doors

I wanted to post an update on this issue, as I solved the problem a
few minutes ago.

There were several times when I had the doors "almost" adjusted right
over the past few months. I'd get it "close enough", it would release
nicely for awhile and then start sticking again. I'd try to adjust it
just a tiny bit and it would stick hard. Hours and hours of screwing
with the thing never seemed to help.

I started thinking I might have to play with the main door hinges, but
was afraid to. Until today. I was again screwing with the striker pins
and got into a situation where there was no way to get a smooth close
even with the front pin removed. The back pin was adjusted as high up
as it could go and it needed to go higher. It was then that I noticed
a slight scraping sound at the top of the door when it was fully
opened. I'd noticed this before but it was always very slight, this
time it seemed worse. The skin of the door was rubbing the t-panel a
bit on full open.

It was obvious the door needed to come "forward" (up) a bit on the
back hinge. So I pulled the strut, propped the door up about halfway
with a bar stool and loosened the bottom bolt. When I went to loosen
the top bolt (that holds the door strut) I found it was already loose.
Barely finger tight! No wonder I could never get my doors to stay
adjusted. I brought the door forward ever so slightly, tightened the
bolts back down, and what do you know - the t-panel scraping went away
and, after a 5 minute striker pin adjustment, the door closes smoothly
again.

Unfortunately I broke my door strut trying to get it back on - head
just snapped right off. I figure that's a good excuse for a set of
Toby's temperature compensating struts, so they're on their way.

Anyway, just wanted to post this since others have had similar
problems with their doors. If you can't get the back striker pin
adjusted to save your life, check the hinges. Be careful doing so, as
the torsion bar could cause you to have a very bad day. I left mine
alone as I was only loosening the rear slightly, but if you plan to
take the bolts out completely or adjust the front at all, the torsion
bar should be removed first.

-Ryan

On 9/16/05, Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com> wrote:

>> Thanks for the replies, again.
>>
>> On 9/16/05, Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
>>> >
>>> > Other than that, it sounds like you're doing everything right.  Also, where did you
>>> > get the seals?
>
>>
>> Seals are Grady's. I'm quite happy with the quality, if only I could
>> get this problem worked out.
>>
>
>>> > suggestion would be that if going up another 1/8th inch appears it would work, maybe
>>> >  try moving the pin down and in so the striker enters the latch a little later in its travel.
>
>>
>> Yep, I've tried and tried to do this. Here's the problem: If I move it
>> in at all, the pin is too far away. The door will then close so
>> tightly I can only open it from the inside. It seems to be a losing
>> battle.
>>
>> After reading Luke's post, it sounds like I need to play with the
>> seals some more:
>>
>
>>> > This includes grinding away a part of the rear captive nut area so I could get the
>>> > pin another 1-2mm up and away from the body
>
>>
>> Yes! See, that's exactly what I've been thinking about doing. Looks
>> like we have the same darn problem. Thank you for letting me know this
>> didn't work for you - that saves me from having to try it. I'll try
>> aligning these one pin at a time, as well as playing with the seals
>> for a better fit (if that's possible). Hopefully that will get me
>> somewhere.
>>
>> Rob, if you're lurking here -- do you have any ideas on this?
>>
>> Thanks everyone.
>>
>> -Ryan
>>



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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 09 Oct 2005 18:50:52 -0000
From: "dmc_5180" <dmc_5180_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DMCH's Performance Exhaust

Sorry, I missed one word in that statement.   Muffler.  I forgot to reread my post before 
sending it.   The dimensions of the muffler body are a little larger thickness 5 inches v. 4 
from the flowmaster.  But it does fit.  

Dennis

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_h...> wrote:

>>
>> Dennis,
>> Does it replace everything like DMCH's system or just a few parts?
>> 
>> Matt
>> VIN: 2953
>> 
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmc_5180" <dmc_5180_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>
>>> > I am currently experimenting with a drop in polished stainless 
>>> > replacement that sounds better and is freer flowing.
>>> > 
>>> > Dennis
>
>>









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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 9 Oct 2005 14:15:20 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Fir tree replacements?

Daniel, New fir trees, Not NOS are on the web site under accessories.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/accessories.html






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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 9 Oct 2005 12:20:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: Erik Geerdink <dmcerik_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Sloppy Shifting / High Idle / Shock replacement

How would I go about tightening up my shifting?  Its not as tights as it once was.  Going over bumps the shifter rattles.  Also, my reverse lights don't always come on and I believe it is because of the sloppy shift.  If I wiggle it a bit the lights come on.  ideas?

As for my high idle, i fixed that.  It was the contact pins that depress the ECU.  I couple of twists and my idle went down from 1500 to around 800.  nice.

A guy who works on the fire department with me has a lift in his pull barn.  i'm going there this week to replace my front suspension.  Any tips as to make this easier while the body is on?  I've only replaced them when the body has been off of the frame.  The front is lowered with Grady springs.

Thanks,
Erik


		
---------------------------------
 Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 09 Oct 2005 19:08:12 -0000
From: "Josh Porter" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 10989 update

John, Thanks but Mike will most likely get my old one rebuilt. I'm 
amazed at what that guy can do. He sold me the rebuilt pump that I 
used and missed up, he was the guy that rebuilt and we got the pump 
to..try to pump, it torgued so I think that he will get it running.

Josh
10989

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:

>>
>> Josh. I have 1 left of a rebuilt pump for $50.00 or new HP pumps 

for $109.95

>> if you want to use it instead of messing up a new pump and all the 

other

>> parts for the fuel pump your having trouble with. 
>> By the way, if the tie rod ends are NOS inventory, then the 

plastic that

>> protects the joint will crack off. All mine are brand new with new 

rubber

>> seals and might I say a little cheaper.
>> John Hervey
>> www.specialtauto.com
>> 
>> 
>>    
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On 

Behalf Of

>> Josh Porter
>> Sent: Saturday, October 08, 2005 9:43 PM
>> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>> Subject: [DML] 10989 update
>> 
>> --
>> Mike noticed that the 
>> pump was not pumping so we took the thing out and what do you 

know, 

>> rust and junk all in the gas and the pump is seized. It's like 
>> taking two steps forward and three steps back. I know it's an old 
>> car and normally take in stride but for some reason I was 

frustrated 

>> with this one because I just knew that it would be running by now, 
>> now I have to replace everything that I have to do in the tank. 
>> Tuesday I get the new Tie rod ends from DMCH and will replace them 
>> Saturday.
>>









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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 9 Oct 2005 15:17:54 -0400
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: RE: Re: DMC Maryland

Gary & Chuck,

Perhaps you guys should consider joining forces or at least try to combine
group events in the hope of larger turn-outs at events? BTW neither of you
mention New York even though the DMA's president, the most honorable Mike
Deluca, and other members reside there. I don't know why it is Mike but us
New Yaawkers we "get no respect".  :)   

Rob Grady
-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
DmcGman_at_dml_comcast.net
Sent: Saturday, October 08, 2005 4:11 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: DMC Maryland

 Sounds like Delorean Mid Atlantic to me.  (with members from Maryland, New
Jersey, Delaware, and Pennsylvania) as well as other states  :-) 





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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 09 Oct 2005 19:21:15 -0000
From: "Mike Bosworth" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Looking for the definitive LED Taillight part numbers




>> As most of you know I sell kits of LED's, and I have tried just 

about every 

>> sort of LED
>> bulbs with our tail lights and nothing looks as bright as the 

originals.


Sorry Bob but i have to disagree with you there... im sure you have 
looked at my rear light comparison but just in case you missed my 
post please look at 

http://www.orgsites.com/tx/bozzzydmc/_pgg6.php3

In the day time the results are just as impressive and far brighter 
clearer and quicker reacting than stock bulbs... these LEDs are 
the 'super bright' range... all 8 bulbs bought off a seller on 
Ebay.com for less than $50 inc the  $13 shipping to the UK.


Kind Regards

Mike
#2001


>> 
>> - Videobob
>> 
>> 
>> 
>
>>> >From: <rob_at_dml_p...>
>>> >Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>> >To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
>>> >Subject: RE: [DML] Looking for the definitive LED Taillight part 

numbers

>>> >Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2005 14:51:38 -0400
>>> >
>>> >Nate & the DML group,
>>> >
>>> >Thank you for purchasing our circuit boards. Over the years since 

we

>>> >introduced (1994 I believe) them we have sold well over a 

thousand of our

>>> >"Life-Time" guarantee boards which fortunately for us have proven 

to be

>>> >extremely reliable. Our warranty rate is less than one percent 

compared to

>>> >an approximately seventy five percent failure rate (My best guess-

timate!)

>>> >of the stock boards. If you've never had a problem with your 

taillights 

>>> >your
>>> >boards probably have our name on them!
>>> >
>
>>









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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 09 Oct 2005 19:20:41 -0000
From: "Stephen Card" <stephen_at_dml_procomroofing.com>
Subject: Re: Tie rod end tool

"It's made by "Stahlwille" and the part number is #12616. I've had the 
tool at least twenty years so I don't know if it's still ....."
----------
$123.75 at there website. It is half way down the "specialty tools" 
page listed as a BMW tool.
http://www.stahlwille.com/special_tools.htm
Thanks for the tip Rob,
Stephen
Vin 3601







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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 09 Oct 2005 19:47:33 -0000
From: "Mike Bosworth" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Looking for the definative LED Taillight part numbers

Hi

Like you i had my concerns, but after seeing some LEDS fitted to a 
fellow d owners car (during the day) and followed him to a meet i 
was more than impressed, that day was a bright sunny day, i couldnt 
stop thinking how bright and 'new' his rear lights looked. Hence my 
reason to obtain the same.

For the hell of it , I will be removing one set of LEDS from my 
right hand cluster very soon and replacing with 'normal' bulbs and 
will post some 'day time' pics for a comparison... 

I dont think its a case of being brave, they work, hence the reason 
why new car manufactures have been fitting these as OEM. if i had 
any concerns now , i would have refitted my origional bulbs  :) 

Kind Regards

Mike
#2001

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:

>>
>> How come I have a feeling the whole list looked at me
>> at once  ;) ?
>> 
>> psst.  *points this way*
>> http://www.orgsites.com/tx/bozzzydmc/_pgg6.php3





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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 09 Oct 2005 19:31:57 -0000
From: "S" <theborderisopen_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Nostalgic DMC Video

I don't suppose there is anyway that I'll ever be allowed to view 
old materials without someone getting upset?  It's not that I'll 
believe/ won't believe what in particular is said, so much as it 
will add to my total field of information.

Where were you lucky enough to find the video?  Will there ever be 
any hope for fans that deperately want to see these older 
productions?





--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Packodenton_at_dml_a... wrote:

>>
>> Oh Gee!
>> You're not kidding VideoBob.
>>  
>> I found a video from 1986 from the UK that is a documentary on 

the  book, 

>> Dream Maker: The rise and fall of John Z. DeLorean by Fallon &  

Strodes. WOW! 

>> Incredible details, excellent interviews, and footage.The film  

interviews people 

>> that were devastated (forced into bankruptcy)  by going into 

business with 

>> John DeLorean and Roy Nesseth. 









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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 9 Oct 2005 12:49:27 -0700
From: Josh Keady <joshkeady_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: ?? Separating Tie rod end from steering knuckle, HOW?

That is the only kind of tool I use to separate ball joints; I  
consider pickle forks the absolute last resort.  You can find the  
threaded stud type joint separators at any parts store and in a range  
of sizes.

Josh

On Oct 9, 2005, at 11:25 AM, <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com> <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com> wrote:


>> Rex,
>>
>> That's an old trick I also used to utilize too but since the  
>> DeLorean came
>> from the factory with Nylock nuts I would substitute a regular  
>> 3/8"-24 hex
>> nut as the "sacrificial lamb". Now I have a T.R. removal tool that  
>> protects
>> the boot while you screw the (adjustable threaded) stud. I'll leave a
>> picture of that to your imagination  :)  It's made by "Stahlwille"  
>> and the
>> part number is #12616. I've had the tool at least twenty years so I  
>> don't
>> know if it's still available or the cost but that company's prices  
>> are more
>> comparable to Snap-On than Sears if you know what I mean. Over the  
>> years
>> that little tool has saved hundreds of DeLorean T.R. boots from an  
>> early
>> demise. The most important thing however is to use a NEW Nyloc nut to
>> re-secure the tie-rod as it's the only thing keeping you from a rather
>> sudden unintended change of direction!
>>
>> Rob Grady,
>>
>> P.J.Grady Inc.






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Message: 20
Date: Sun, 9 Oct 2005 15:08:35 -0500
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: DMCH's Performance Exhaust

OK-
I recorded a small sample with my mp3 player. It's not great, and it took a
couple of takes to get one close to ok because it's so loud.  :) 

It is in the files section, DMCh_perf_Exhaust.wav.

Enjoy, though it is nothing like the real thing. They've brought the joy
back to motoring in the D.

-Kevin

On 10/7/05, conundrum1984 <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:

>>
>> I still would like to hear a sound sample. Anyone got a recorder?
>>
>> Matt
>> VIN: 2953
>>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 21
Date: Sun, 9 Oct 2005 13:46:22 -0700
From: "Gary Hull" <Specialty_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Tie rod end tool

This site has it with a "sale price" of $105.19
http://mdmetric.com/sw/nn30e/stahlwillepricelist.htm 

Number   Item   Description               List Price     Sale Price
71050000 12616   Univ BallJoint Seperator  $123.75        $105.19

Here is a picture:
http://thetoolnetwork.com/tierod_puller_pt_stw_12616.html 



>> "It's made by "Stahlwille" and the part number is #12616. I've had the 
>> tool at least twenty years so I don't know if it's still ....."


Gary
IN2TIME



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Message: 22
Date: Sun, 09 Oct 2005 20:50:31 -0000
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: DMCH's Performance Exhaust

Kevin,
That sounds great!  Is that a stock engine or the DMCH Performance 
engine with 197 HP?  If it is the later of the two, would a stock 
engine sound like that as well?

Matt
VIN: 2953

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_g...> wrote:

>>
>> OK-
>> I recorded a small sample with my mp3 player. It's not great, and 

it took a

>> couple of takes to get one close to ok because it's so loud.  :) 
>> 
>> It is in the files section, DMCh_perf_Exhaust.wav.
>> 
>> Enjoy, though it is nothing like the real thing. They've brought 

the joy

>> back to motoring in the D.
>> 
>> -Kevin








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Message: 23
Date: Sun, 09 Oct 2005 20:51:36 -0000
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: DMCH's Performance Exhaust

Nevermind, I played it again and heard you say stock.  I did hear that 
right didn't I?

Matt







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