Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2924
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:11 Oct 2005 22:20:20 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 24 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Re: Sway Bar was: DMC Netherlands
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

2. Re: kevlar wrapped header bottle
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

3. Re: Re: Other quality PJ Grady parts (request)
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

4. Delorean Events in NJ
From: "dmcgman" <DmcGman_at_dml_comcast.net>

5. Re: Other quality PJ Grady parts (request)
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

6. Climate control problems
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

7. What is Air Filter Number?
From: "birdwell77095" <birdwells_at_dml_usa.net>

8. Gradys, HRC Angle drive
From: "dmc_5180" <dmc_5180_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Re: DMCH's Performance Exhaust
From: "dmc_5180" <dmc_5180_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. Re: Re: Other quality PJ Grady parts (request)
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com

11. Raffle Car Question answered
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

12. Drive Shaft Seal
From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>

13. Angle Drive Cable Length .... too long?
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>

14. Quality of Aftermarket Parts
From: "Shain Brannan" <dsmguy_at_dml_ptd.net>

15. Re: What is Air Filter Number?
From: Joey Morgan <jlm1701music_at_dml_yahoo.com>

16. RE: Grady's, HRC Angle drive
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

17. RE: Re: DMCH's Performance Exhaust
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

18. RE: Door Strut Mounting Posts
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

19. vin 11501, first week of ownership blues (crankshaft seal)
From: "natesky1980" <ncskalsk_at_dml_mtu.edu>

20. Re: Angle Drive Cable Length .... too long?
From: Johnny Sawyer <johnny.sawyer_at_dml_gmail.com>

21. Re: Door Strut Mounting Posts
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

22. Re: De Lorean Photomosaic
From: ComposerZelgadis_at_dml_aol.com

23. Re: Door Strut Mounting Posts
From: "John Spangler" <johnspangler_at_dml_netzero.net>

24. Re: De Lorean Photomosaic
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2005 18:17:23 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Sway Bar was: DMC Netherlands

Just a FYI - the Lotus Esprit never had a rear anti-roll bar either.

Martin

Dave Swingle wrote:


>>A DeLorean rear sway bar is still available from Addco. Check 
>>addco.com or swaybars.com. I've never seen one on a DMC, but I know 
>>there are a few of these installations out there. It requires some 
>>drilling of the frame and makes the bottom of the car even lower (the 
>>bar hangs lower than the frame).
>>
>>Dave Swingle
>>
>>  
>>







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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2005 18:15:55 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: kevlar wrapped header bottle

You almost never see anything made from just kevlar - it nearly always 
has a layer of carbon on it for the simple reason that it's impossible 
to finish a pure kevlar composite off, unless you have a lot of gelcoat 
on it. Why? Because you can't sand Kevlar - it just goes fluffy  :-) 

How are you going to do the neck? Again, you can't really machine kevlar 
easily.

Martin

delorean6859 wrote:


>>A recent thread about concerns for a galvanic reaction between a stainless header coolant bottle and aluminum sparked an idea.  This group tends to shoot ideas down pretty quickly by spotting flaws so I am posting this.... What if I wrapped a coolant bottle in kevlar using a fiberglass epoxy to strengthen it and protect it from heat? 





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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2005 13:09:36 -0500
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Other quality PJ Grady parts (request)

I would also take two, and I'd consider $75 for the gears cheap.  --And I 
can install them myself!  I've done it so many times, I can crack an angle 
drive open in my sleep.

Jake
1063




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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2005 20:38:20 -0000
From: "dmcgman" <DmcGman_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Delorean Events in NJ

Just sending this out to those who may be interested.  There is a 
car show at the Chatsworth Cranberry Festival this coming Sunday 
October 16th in Chatsworth NJ.  I plan to attend and several of our 
members have gone in the past.  Always a nice event.  Here is the 
web site for more info.  Email me if interested in attending.
 
http://www.cranfest.org/activities.html
 
On another note I plan to attend the Christmas Parade on Long Beach 
Island, NJ again this year.  The date is December 3rd which is a 
Saturday so mark your calendars.  Last year we had 7 Deloreans.  
Some members like Mike Deluca and Rob and Debby Grady came down on 
Friday night and stayed over.  Atlantic City is close by and there 
is a brand new Holiday Inn here which just opened in Manahawkin, 
N.J.  I plan to attend the parade and stop somewhere afterwards for 
a late lunch or early dinner as we did last year.  Anyone interested 
in attending email me back.  The parade is televised.  Pictures and 
the TV Broadcast from last years parade can be found on our website 
in the scrapbook section so check it out!
 
www.deloreanmidatlantic.com
 
Gary Gore
Vice President
Delorean Mid Atlantic







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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2005 20:46:26 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: Other quality PJ Grady parts (request)

Rob and others,

There certainly is nothing wrong with thrifty and in fact, I am as
thrifty as I am a pack-rat, when it comes to used DeLorean parts.
I keep way too many parts that I will probably never use, but I
just cannot bring myself to dispose of them if they could be used.

Like others here, I was attempting to fix damaged angle drives for
years before I came across the HCR angle drive option.  Just as
you promote your improved tail light boards as a better option,
I would prefer purchasing the HCR angle drive again, if available.

I do not think you would have a problem selling at least 25% of the
initial build of 200 units, but that's were a poll would come in.

Later,
Rich W.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, <rob_at_dml_p...> wrote:

>>
>> Rich W.,
>> 
>> Thanks for the compliment but I wasn't really wasn't complaining 

about

>> "thrifty" owners. Many new owners are younger and less financially 

endowed

>> than the previous generation of owners which tended toward the 

"upwardly

>> mobile" side. Actually I see this as a positive development as there 

is

>> nothing more promising than a new and younger crop of enthusiasts 

assuming

>> the drivers seat. 
>>
>> snip <








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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2005 16:31:41 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Climate control problems

My car has had climate control problems since I bought it a year ago.
Earlier this year I finally got all of the mixed up vacuum controls
and the mode switch fixed, so that's done. However, I still have one
big problem:

My temperature selector actually moves air from one area to another,
and causes dramatic temperature problems. Some examples:

1. Sometimes it's too hot for "vent" but too cold for A/C. So I run
the A/C and move the temperature toward the warm side a bit. Problem:
When I move from cold to warm on Max A/C, air is directed away from
the vents and toward the floor! Worse, while the air coming out of the
vents hits the temperature I want, the air coming from the floor is
freezing cold no matter where the temperature is set. With the temp as
hot as it will go and the A/C & fan on max I get virtually no airflow
out the vents (but it's hot like it should be) and a lot of super cold
airflow by my feet.

2. Today, it was perfect outside and slightly hot in the car. So I
turned on "vent" and temperature all the way to cold. I got outside
temperature air out the vents, like I should, but I also got super hot
air at my feet - making the vent setting unusable.

What could be wrong? As far as I know changing the temperature
controls should not change air direction between the vents and my
feet. Not to mention the frustrating temperature differences.

-Ryan


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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2005 00:11:58 -0000
From: "birdwell77095" <birdwells_at_dml_usa.net>
Subject: What is Air Filter Number?

I'm trying to locate an air filter for my car. I took it to Pep Boys 
and Auto Zone and neither had one that size. The brand stamped on the 
side is "Crosland 9053". Where do you find that brand or what is a 
cross reference number for that and where can you find those brands?

Shannon 16113







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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2005 00:43:07 -0000
From: "dmc_5180" <dmc_5180_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Gradys, HRC Angle drive

I agree, it would be nice if the were still availiable.

I am speaking with the experiance of having had one once. It lasted 
me several years I am guessing 40K mi. When it did finally give up, 
It was after the Cheaper units were available and Rob had decided it 
was no longer cost effective to make them. He sold them for about 
$165. which at the time was only 40 bucks more than the regular 
units sold for back then. Now we are talking over a 100 spread. So I 
had to settle for the cheaper one. well, after hearing about some 
individuals who had been plaged with problems using them. I was 
worried I may end up in the same boat. As it turns out, the one and 
only new Delorean.com unit I have now has about 8k on it KNOCK ON 
WOOD. I did have a friend who who replaced his with  one of them 
about a month before I had too. His broke backing out of his garage. 
after just installing it. GO figure. anyway it was warranteed and 
replaced and its been fine ever since. I had heard that a batch had 
shipped by the manufacturer lacking grease. That would explain alot. 
when I recieved my new unit from Rob it was greased and turned 
smoothly.


Dennis







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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2005 00:05:06 -0000
From: "dmc_5180" <dmc_5180_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DMCH's Performance Exhaust

Bolting the new stuff on is the easy part. Getting the old stuff off 
could be a challange. Depending on rusty exhaust studs and nuts. 
When I did mine,I replaced all the manifold studs and nuts. I got 
those from Rob Grady, along with his one-piece exhaust gaskets the 
studs are expensive though but in my opinion worth the trouble. One 
of the best tools I have found is a set of metric GEARWRENCHES brand 
name. In addition to a small socket set with wobble type extensions. 
they allow for slight misalignment to the fastener. There may be 
some studs that unscrew from the head instead of the nut coming off. 
Thats ok if you plan in replacing them. Removing the old studs are 
fairly easy by taking two nuts and doubling them to each other 
creating a jam setup. It usually works best if you back the stud out 
using the inside nut. Sometimes the stud will be so tight that the 
jammed nuts can turn on the stud. In that case what usually works 
for me is to put a wrench on each nut staggered far enough apart 
that I can apply squeeze pressure with one hand and rotate the whole 
setup at once. 
 
Removing the crossover pipe could be troublesome if you are unable 
to get at all the Cat. studs. One is kind of hinden and I don't 
remember how I did that one. I think it was with a few 3/8 
extentions. but I'm not sure. Overall it is fairly straight forward 
to switch the system. baring in mind a possible glitch now and then. 
you should not have to much trouble. Famous last words:-)

Dennis

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_h...> 
wrote:

>>
>> Dennis,
>> Is the change over to the DMCH exhaust pretty simple like for me 

to do it?  I don't have a lot of tools and I'm still learning stuff.




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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2005 21:58:08 EDT
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Other quality PJ Grady parts (request)


As Houston did a preorder for light switches, I'll put my money where my  
mouth is, and preorder whatever is necessary to get the ball rolling to start  
production of those parts again.
 
Anyone else want to join in on the fun?
 
Sincerely,
Mike Pack
 




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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2005 21:27:14 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Raffle Car Question answered

I have had this question asked a number of times again this year about the  
raffle car
 
Why are you limiting the sale to 600 tickets only
 
The reason is again based on tax law
To do this as  a non profit we can only bring in a certain amount of  money 
outside the "membership" (membership is based on the magazine and car show  
attendance)
If we exceed that then we loose the tax status.
At some time this may be to our advantage but as of now it is not.
So 
The limit to 600 
We expect a much bigger group this time and we have about twice the room as  
last show so we should do fine and we will defiantly be selling raffle  tickets
 
They are so far WAY above last year what we had sold in March so  the with 
any luck we will sell out the tickets this time.
 
Ken 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2005 21:10:04 -0500
From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>
Subject: Drive Shaft Seal

My car is a manual 5-speed.  I recently replaced a leaky driveshaft seal. 
Now I hear a clanking sound from the rear of the car when coasting.  The 
sound stops when I press the accelerator.  I purchased the seal from 
SpecialT.  Has anyone else experienced this?

Lingo #2034 





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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2005 21:15:51 -0500
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>
Subject: Angle Drive Cable Length .... too long?

OK, I have never been able to get my Speedo working.  Now I have a new angle
drive and bracket.  Have not had it on the road yet since there are other
things to get finished before it is tested.

BUT ... I did see something interesting.  I pushed on the plastic cover
until it was seated as far as it would be when the wheel is installed.  I
noticed the angle drive moved on the other end.  The cable is up against the
cup's end and exerting pressure on the angle drive.  Not very much, but a
bit.

That begs the question about the cable being too long and causing angle
drive problems.  Worse case is that it flexes in the axle and rubs in the
"tube". Either way, it probably puts a bit of unwanted force on the angle
drive mechanism.

Thoughts?

Nick





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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2005 02:18:33 -0000
From: "Shain Brannan" <dsmguy_at_dml_ptd.net>
Subject: Quality of Aftermarket Parts

Hello Group,

Recently after reading a few posts regarding some aftermarket 
products (tailight boards, hcr angle drives etc.) i'd like to post a 
thank you letter.  Recently, after having researched, designed and 
built a product for the DeLorean i would like to give a large thank 
you to all of those who have been designing and comming up with new 
products to keep our cars moving.  

Attempting to come up with a solution to a specific DeLorean problem 
is alot more work then the average owner understands.  After a 
design or idea is created, comming up with a solution, or more 
specificaly a long term reliable solution is more difficult.  Since 
our cars are produced in a small number,  compared to say a corvette 
or other production car, products are produced in smaller 
quantities, and alot of vendors only like to make an item in larger 
quantities for profit reason.  When i designed my new fan module,  i 
cannot tell you how many plastic manufactures i talked to that would 
not sell boxes in amounts less than 1000 units.  After you have have 
suitable vendors you need to come up with every idea possible how 
your new item is going to fail, so you can make changes so this does 
not happen.  Personally i have tried of 22 diffrent fuse holders, 15 
prototype units, 6 circuit board revisions, 42 diffrent software 
version of the microcontroller software, before Rob and I were 
happy.  It really is a love affair in a since.

After the above stages of development, you now have to make the part 
somewhat profitable,  so most items we use are hand assembled, which 
ensure quality, but slows down production.  What I am trying to say 
is that prices are going to be slighty high, but you are receiving 
what the builders sees as a quality product.  Everythign single 
vendor out there goes through all these stressful proccess every day 
to bring us the highest quality products available.  After building 
my own product i now appreciate our vendors and what they do for 
us.  I just wanted to share this with everyon who make become 
unpatient with a product,  or insult the way it was designed.  

-Shain Brannan







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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2005 21:22:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joey Morgan <jlm1701music_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: What is Air Filter Number?

 AC		A815C
 Bosch		AF235	
 Champion	AF343
 Crossland	042115
 FRAM		PH287A
 NAPA		6112
 NOPI		AF235
 Purolator	AF4275
 Volvo		269308-3
 WIX		46112
 World		W27-623

Joey
#6297





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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2005 08:01:50 -0400
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: RE: Grady's, HRC Angle drive

To the group,

Before I rush off and make more HCR gears I'll have a talk with Stephan Winn
to find out what the hardness spec is on the new gears. Before Houston built
these new ones he asked me for input on the project and I mentioned that the
original gears were soft but I thought harder gears like the HCR's (C60)
were only a partial answer to the problem. The design of the housing allows
little capacity for lubrication so that is another stumbling block. I don't
know if the new unit's gears are harder so I'll ask him! I've had a pretty
low failure rate on the HCR's (definitely below 10% after three years) but
it's not up to the standards of the circuit boards or the Zilla products. No
matter what you do with this design it won't last forever. A completely new
(electro-magnetic?) design would be best IMHO.
 Houston invested in quite a few units to bring the price down so perhaps
Stephan could pressure the manufacturer to come up with a better solution
whether it's harder gears, better &/or more initial lubrication, quality
control or some combination of the three. That's what I tried to do with the
HCR's so maybe he can pressure the supplier to do the same? If the next
batch he makes cost some more I think it would be a fair tradeoff. The
venders have been working together more closely as of late so I don't see
why together we can't put this problem to bed and move on to more
interesting stuff for our beloved Dee's.

Rob Grady

P.J.Grady Inc.





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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2005 09:15:28 -0400
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: RE: Re: DMCH's Performance Exhaust

Dennis,

I'm going to answer this post with a shameless plug. I've been too busy to
promote these and other new products on our website so this is a way to get
the word out. The hardened 7mm studs (#102167GS) have been working out
really well. Besides the one piece gaskets the key to longer exhaust gasket
life is these improved studs. I'm on my second batch of them and would never
go back to stock....these are just so much better. We also include stainless
10mm studs in the kits. If you already have the gaskets we offer a S/S stud
kit (#112167GS $99.50 w/7&10MM studs) with all the other fasteners you need.
Although our exhaust service kit (#112259GS $149.95) is pricier than some
when you think of having to do an exhaust gasket job with the stock setup
every 5 to 10 years these studs are a relative bargain. Currently we are the
only vender to have this kit but inquiries are invited. We do a lot of
exhaust work and no one wants to do the job twice on the same car...with our
exhaust kit you won’t have to.

Rob Grady

P.J.Grady Inc. 

-----Original Message-----
From: dmc_5180
Subject: [DML] Re: DMCH's Performance Exhaust

Bolting the new stuff on is the easy part. Getting the old stuff off 
could be a challange. Depending on rusty exhaust studs and nuts. 
When I did mine,I replaced all the manifold studs and nuts. I got 
those from Rob Grady, along with his one-piece exhaust gaskets the 
studs are expensive though but in my opinion worth the trouble.




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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2005 09:26:29 -0400
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: RE: Door Strut Mounting Posts

Todd,

Sorry for the extended delay (Six weeks!) in answering this but we do offer
a heavy duty lower door strut mounting kit for exactly this purpose. The
part #'s are 108653G & 108654G and are $19.50 each. We've been installing
these brackets for over ten years with no failures reported.

Rob Grady,

 P.J.Grady Inc.


-----Original Message-----
From: Todd Nelson
Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2005 7:46 PM
Subject: [DML] Door Strut Mounting Posts

I noticed today getting out of my car that the lower mounting post (one on the body) for the door struts is not completely perpendicular to the body. It looks like over the years with the doors being closed 99% of the time all of that force has bent the mounting plate for this post outward.  Is this right?  Or were these posts always a little bent out even when new. 




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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2005 15:19:30 -0000
From: "natesky1980" <ncskalsk_at_dml_mtu.edu>
Subject: vin 11501, first week of ownership blues (crankshaft seal)

Last Saturday I was driving the Delorean and developed a serious oil 
leak (actually at first I thought it was the alternator, as the 
ammeter went offscale low), however when I pulled over I quickly lost 
what was left of the engine's oil.  The belts and pulleys were 
drenched in oil.   The rear of the car was also drenched in it.  It 
honestly looked like the engine exploded.   I had a flat-bed tow 
truck take 'us' back to homebase.  I was fairly upset, both by not 
knowing what combination of seals/gaskets had failed, and wondering 
if there was internal damage to the engine.  That and the fact that I 
had to be towed home, which contrasts with the image that your 
neighbors saw you excitedly leaving for a relaxing drive in 
your 'new' delorean with a image of it on a flatbed, you with oil on 
your jacket,jeans and a generaly depressed look.

Sunday morning I pulled the exhaust, rear fascia and the crank pulley 
(I had previously refilled the oil and ran the car in my garage to 
find the leak, coming from the crank pulley, remenicent of a water 
wheel boat).  The crank pulley nut was really on there, took a few 
hours to muscle it off (broke a extension to my breaker bar in the 
process).

When I pulled the crankshaft oil seal I noticed there was a thin blue 
film around most (but not all) of the seal's perimeter.. otherwise it 
looked basically ok.  Adding to my puzzlement was the fact that the 
oil I caught in a tray while looking for the leak had a milky/blueish 
substance mixed into the oil.  At first I fiqured I had coolant 
mixing in due to bad head gasket(s).  I took some coolant out of the 
overflow bottle and put it in the pan, it didn't look at all like 
this blue-ish stuff.  Adding to the mystery (for me, you may have 
known right off) was that if I took oil from the pan (via the plug) 
the oil was normal looking.  

So by now it all hits home. The previous owner must have had the 
same catastrophic leak, and instead of replacing the seal with a new 
part, he put liquid gasket maker around it.  The blue-ish substance 
is bits of the liquid gasket material being ejected with the oil.  
Sound reasonable?

I ordered a new seal from DMC/houston, a new exhaust clamp (mine was 
really clean as far as those things go but it broke anyway), and new 
belts.   Normaly once I striped a car to this point I would do more, 
like replace the water pump, maybe even the head gaskets.etc.  
However my wife is flying in (she's a grad student many states away 
from me) this weekend, and I was going to take her for a nice drive 
in this car that cost us quite a bit.   I'm really hoping that I can 
install the new seal today (had it overnight'ed, the shipping was as 
much as the order) and button things back up so that we can still do 
that.  After this weekend though, I think I'm going to retire it 
until next spring and do some more work/checking to see what else may 
have been crazy glued.  

I do wish I would have ordered a new oil pressure sensor (gauge) I 
looked at it on my scope, I don't think its working properly. 

Anyway, I apologize for the length of the post.  I'm many things, 
but concise is not one of them.  Even though I had hoped for more 
reliablility, the car was pretty easy to work on, bolts move, frame 
looks brand new, clean.  I'm hoping once I compelte a critical mass 
of needed maintenance it will become more reliable.

-Nate

VIN 11501  









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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2005 09:01:42 -0700
From: Johnny Sawyer <johnny.sawyer_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Angle Drive Cable Length .... too long?

Nick, I have worked on one DeLorean that had what you describe. The lower
cable was about a meter in length, (maybe a bit longer), and it looked like
it could get kinked-up in some spots.
 I tried to keep the cable as slack as possible both in and out of the cabin
and I also removed the cable from the sleeve to give it a good measure of
grease. Then I made sure that the bracket was holding the cable firmly in
place.
 Unfortunatly, the owner hasn't driven her car since I replaced the AD, so I
can't report on any problems.
 The VIN was in the 4800's. Not sure if that makes a difference.
 Makes me wonder if some lower cables were produced in different lengths or
if this one was an oddball part from another type of car that just happen to
fit the DeLorean.
 Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
 Johnny
5518

 On 10/10/05, Nick Kemp <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net> wrote:

>>
>> OK, I have never been able to get my Speedo working. Now I have a new angle drive and bracket.
>> BUT ... I did see something interesting. I pushed on the plastic cover until it was seated as far as it would be when the wheel is installed. I noticed the angle drive moved on the other end. The cable is up against the cup's end and exerting pressure on the angle drive. Not very much, but a bit.





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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2005 17:08:27 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Door Strut Mounting Posts

We had an interesting one in recently where the lower mount had been 
ripped clean out of the fibreglass. It was a genuine manufacturing error 
- the lower mount was 1/2" closer to the hinge on the pass door. The 
combination of struts with too-long ball joints and the original 
mounting point had pulled it out. There was also evidence of poor 
glassing in that area with only a small amount of glass and a lot of gel 
coat. I'm sorry to say that the strengthing kit I had was of no use - 
the new mounts just got pulled strait out. I suspect the intention is 
fit them before the mount breaks completely though!

The car went to our Lotus specialist who revelled in the chance to work 
on a bit of Lotus "engineering" that he hadn't seen before. He did a 
fantastic job and the whole car rocked when the door was bounced 
(gently!) on the strut afterwards. We had to remove the roof, and 
quarter panel, inside and out for him to cut up and completely 
reconstruct the roof in that area because it had been so badly laid at 
the factory. That side now looks better than the driver's side (not that 
you can see it with all the panels on!)

Martin
DMC Ltd

rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com wrote:


>>Todd,
>>
>>Sorry for the extended delay (Six weeks!) in answering this but we do offer
>>a heavy duty lower door strut mounting kit for exactly this purpose. The
>>part #'s are 108653G & 108654G and are $19.50 each. We've been installing
>>these brackets for over ten years with no failures reported.
>>
>>Rob Grady,
>>
>> P.J.Grady Inc.
>>
>>  
>>







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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2005 12:26:34 EDT
From: ComposerZelgadis_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: De Lorean Photomosaic

Sounds fun.  I have a *decent* camera, so I'll see what I can  do.  My DMC is 
fairly average for an early '81, but I'd be glad to send you  a few pics.
 
Where do you want us to send the imagery?  Does Yahoo really give you  that 
much space these days?


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2005 17:11:59 -0000
From: "John Spangler" <johnspangler_at_dml_netzero.net>
Subject: Re: Door Strut Mounting Posts

Hey Rob-

I've got a similar problem (though it's not really bugging me), and
I'd like to know what's involved in installing these?  What
parts/panels need to be removed?

Thanks,

-John
#5572

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, <rob_at_dml_p...> wrote:

>>
>> Todd,
>> 
>> Sorry for the extended delay (Six weeks!) in answering this but we

do offer a heavy duty lower door strut mounting kit for exactly this purpose. The part #'s are 108653G & 108654G and are $19.50 each. We've been installing these brackets for over ten years with no failures reported.

>> 
>> Rob Grady,
>> 
>>  P.J.Grady Inc.





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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2005 17:17:30 -0000
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>
Subject: Re: De Lorean Photomosaic

Hi Chuck.

You can use the Delorean specific pictures from my site.  Please 
don't use the circuit design pictures from my site.  The Delorean 
pictures are here:

http://www.gendreaumicro.com/tenpointtwo/11472index.htm

Rick Gendreau


---  "Chuck McKnight" <gullwingdoors_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>>
>> I am going to try to make a De Lorean Photomosaic (or maybe 

several)using only photos of De Loreans.  That means I need probably about 1000 pictures to work with.




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