Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2925
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:12 Oct 2005 20:03:24 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. B280 engine question
From: Skip Albright <salbrigh_at_dml_nycap.rr.com>

2. Re: What is Air Filter Number?
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

3. oil leak in valley-o-death (was first week of ownership blues (crankshaft seal))
From: "natesky1980" <ncskalsk_at_dml_mtu.edu>

4. Re: kevlar wrapped header bottle
From: Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>

5. Re: vin 11501, first week of ownership blues (crankshaft seal)
From: "brandelorean" <brandelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. What else used our alternators?
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>

7. RE: Angle Drive Cable Length .... too long?
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>

8. Re: Grady's, HRC Angle drive
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

9. Re: Drive Shaft Seal
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

10. Re: Angle Drive Cable Length .... too long?
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

11. Re: kevlar wrapped header bottle
From: "dmc_5180" <dmc_5180_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Re: Grady's, HRC Angle drive
From: "dmc_5180" <dmc_5180_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Torsion bar adjustment
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

14. Re: vin 11501, first week of ownership blues (crankshaft seal)
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

15. Re: Drive Shaft Seal
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

16. ITAY-JAPAN
From: "Edoardo Auteri" <kin_taro_oe_at_dml_hotmail.com>

17. Blower motors
From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

18. Re: B280 engine question
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

19. Re: What else used our alternators?
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. Re: Torsion bar adjustment
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>

21. Re: ITAY-JAPAN
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>

22. Re: Blower motors
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

23. Paint to match epoxy on frame
From: Jamie Hamlin <jamiepierce2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>

24. Re: Torsion bar adjustment
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

25. Re: Torsion bar adjustment
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2005 18:17:41 -0400
From: Skip Albright <salbrigh_at_dml_nycap.rr.com>
Subject: B280 engine question


I'm taking a B280 PRV  engine  apart, to sell the pieces.
It's new experience to me, and I wonder about things.

there are two sensors in the valley, that look like you need to take 
most of the upper end to get to. what do they do? and do they fail 
often? Seems like a nightmare to get to them.

thanks

Skip










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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2005 17:21:58 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: What is Air Filter Number?

Purolator # is wrong, it should be 14275

Mark V


On Oct 10, 2005, at 11:22 PM, Joey Morgan wrote:


>>  AC		A815C
>>  Bosch		AF235	
>>  Champion	AF343
>>  Crossland	042115
>>  FRAM		PH287A
>>  NAPA		6112
>>  NOPI		AF235
>>  Purolator	AF4275





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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2005 22:28:56 -0000
From: "natesky1980" <ncskalsk_at_dml_mtu.edu>
Subject: oil leak in valley-o-death (was first week of ownership blues (crankshaft seal))


 I just finished installing the new crank seal and pulley.  I topped 
off the oil and gave it a spin.  The engine sounds great.. however when 
I ran to the back of the car, there was a steady stream of oil, like 
seeing lava move down a mountain comming from the 'valley of death' 
region down the 'rear' of the engine (pulley side).  

My question is.. not knowing what I'll find when I get down there, is 
there something legitimate that could be causing the leak? a line, 
gasket/seal or something.  Or is it very likely that I have a hole in 
the engine?  

I think I may have been taken a bit on the car.  Its all oil(water) 
under the car(bridge) now I suppose.   There is still lots of blue 
substance in the oil.  I'm guessing maybe the liquid gasket theory may 
still yet apply in the valley somewhere.  

Sometimes I wish I could have been a bicycle enthusiast, or perhaps a 
avid stamp collector...

-Nate



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "natesky1980" <ncskalsk_at_dml_m...> wrote:

>>
>> Last Saturday I was driving the Delorean and developed a serious oil 
>> leak (








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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2005 17:31:06 -0500
From: Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>
Subject: Re: kevlar wrapped header bottle

Nate,

The P.O of my car (thank you, Harold) used a pair x-large hose clamps 
around the outside of the coolant bottle.  They held up for over 100,000 
miles in the Texas heat.  I only replaced the bottle because the plastic 
was starting to show spider-cracks everywhere, and I was worried more 
about it bursting than splitting in half.

You should have seen that bottle, though...the plastic had swollen around 
the clamps.  It looked like a balloon with a string tied around it.  With 
fiberglass, you could probably make a new header bottle with sufficient 
strength...or just buy a new tank.

Kevlar?!??


Gus Schlachter
VIN #4695
Austin, Texas





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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2005 23:04:06 -0000
From: "brandelorean" <brandelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: vin 11501, first week of ownership blues (crankshaft seal)

Hey Nate,

Sorry to hear your problems....it's a shame when an owner uses 
a "band-aid" and sells it to you at X price saying everything is 
perfect.  

As for the problems you are fixing, I say hurry up and get it done.  
Letting the car sit till next Spring, will pretty much only cause 
more problems in the long run.  Who knows what might happen by then 
(cold rat crawls into the body and chews out wiring etc) and by the 
time it gets to spring, you may have lost the inspiration to get the 
car running.

One spring turns into two and things start pissing you off.  The main 
concern should be fixing the seal, cleaning the engine, replacing 
some of the gaskets (valve, oil, exhaust) and putting the sucker back 
together.  Run some clean oil through the system and drain and 
replace with the good synthetic stuff that's been talked about many 
times on the forum....point being to make sure you get all the little 
bits of blue stuff out.  If your head gaskets are in good shape, 
don't touch them as by the time they do, you'll have driven enough 
and saved enough to get a stage 2 or 3 engine..who knows.  Do a once 
through on all your wiring and replace a few bolts and nuts while 
you're in there.  If you let the car sit, you may need new tires by 
the Spring, the fuel will need replacing, the fuel pump might have 
seized, and some of the fuel lines may have cracked or rusted up a 
bit....there are a ton of things that happen when cars just sit.  

You bought the car, get it driving so that when you write the check 
you relate the experience to something positive.

I've spent 6 months rebuilding my D from the ground up (powder 
coating frame etc) and though it looks nice, nothing will be nicer 
than driving the car on the open road.  Believe me, it's way easier 
to write a check out when you know you can drive what you're paying 
for.  Tis why I have spent so much time getting this car torn apart 
and rebuilt in only 6 months....hopefully it'll only be a couple more 
months till I'm trying to fit my arm out the tollbooth window to act 
as my AC.

Get'r Done!

Brandon
Vin 3323

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "natesky1980" <ncskalsk_at_dml_m...> wrote:

>>
>> Last Saturday I was driving the Delorean and developed a serious 

oil 

>> leak (actually at first I thought it was the alternator, as the 
>> ammeter went offscale low), however when I pulled over I quickly 

lost 

>> what was left of the engine's oil. 








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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 00:03:12 -0000
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: What else used our alternators?

Hello all,
I'm trying to find out what other vehicles used our Motorola and 
Ducillier alternators.
Does anyone know of a make and year that used the same?  
Also can someone take a look at their Motorola alternator and tell me 
the part number?  Not the Delorean part number, the Motorola number.

Matt







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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2005 18:11:04 -0500
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>
Subject: RE: Angle Drive Cable Length .... too long?

The cable I'm referring to is the cable through the axle that is part of the
angle drive.  I noticed that when I put the plastic hub on all the way that
it was moving the angle drive on the other end.

Nick

-----Original Message-----
From: Johnny Sawyer
Subject: Re: [DML] Angle Drive Cable Length .... too long?


Nick, I have worked on one DeLorean that had what you describe. The lower cable was about a meter in length, (maybe a bit longer), and it looked like it could get kinked-up in some spots.
 I tried to keep the cable as slack as possible both in and out of the cabin




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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 00:14:55 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Grady's, HRC Angle drive

I wonder just how much "hardness" plays a role in the longevity of the
gearset. In many instances of gearsets one gear is purposly made
softer than another so that you only replace 1 gear instead of 2. In
any case there are many origional angle drives out there still
operating with plastic gears. My theory is that the angle drive fails
because the speedometer gets jammed up with parts that break loose
inside and the metal clips get attracted into the magnet and jam up
the works. Before over-engineering the angle drive it is better to
find the ultimate cause of the failures and correct it. In any case we
do need a source for angle drives that fail but the "best" solution
would be to replace the angle drive with some type of rotary encoder
feeding an electronic drive for the speedometer (or a completely
electronic speedometer). On the subject of the difficulty in
lubricating the angle drive, I ask, how many owners lubricate theirs
and how often?
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757





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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 01:02:36 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Drive Shaft Seal

Are you sure you tightened the shaft bolts adequately? Shaft seated 
properly on flange?

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_m...> wrote:

>>
>> My car is a manual 5-speed.  I recently replaced a leaky driveshaft 

seal. 

>> Now I hear a clanking sound from the rear of the car when coasting.  

The 

>> sound stops when I press the accelerator.  I purchased the seal from 
>> SpecialT.  Has anyone else experienced this?
>> 
>> Lingo #2034
>>









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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 01:11:31 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Angle Drive Cable Length .... too long?

You can either shorten the angle-drive shaft - I wouldn't recommend 
that - or just drill - from the outside end of the plastic "cup" - a 
hole that will allow the shaft to go deeper. Careful to just drill 
enough to open up the end and not to affect the square drive portion.

Is the cup new? I would recommend that you try a new one if it is 
not. An old cup can get damaged when the angle drive malfunctions.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_b...> wrote:

>>
>> OK, I have never been able to get my Speedo working.  Now I have a 

new angle drive and bracket. 

>> BUT ... I did see something interesting.  I pushed on the plastic 

cover until it was seated as far as it would be when the wheel is 
installed.  I noticed the angle drive moved on the other end.  The cable is up against the cup's end and exerting pressure on the angle drive.




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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 01:41:06 -0000
From: "dmc_5180" <dmc_5180_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: kevlar wrapped header bottle

BANG!!

Galvanic corrosion does exist between Aluminum and stainless when in 
direct contact. Say, stainless bolts in aluminum. The header bottle 
is completely separated from any physical contact and todays Coolants 
are safe to use in the engines also. Years ago there was an anti-
freeze that was not safe for use in aluminum engines. I don't think 
it even exists any more, because most engines these days use aluminum 
heads. Some dealerships were not aware of it and unfortunately used 
it in the deloreans they serviced. I have heard on several occasions 
from our reputable suppliers of blocks rotting from the inside out. 
Because of the improper coolant being used. All the suppliers now 
sell stainless tanks if there was an issue they would NOT be selling 
them.  They would all be aluminum. 

Imagine this senerio

Costumer: I installed this stainless header bottle you supplied me 3 
years ago. Now I have a bad block Because of it. It's your fault for 
not doing further research. You owe me a new engine.

"I don't think so Tim!"

No reputable business person would put themselves into that position 
knowingly. I know the stainless header bottle topic has been around 
in the past.Thus far it has been unsubstantiated. However, the wrong 
coolant is bad news. Remember many of our cars were used early in 
there life and then sat for 10-20 years. If they had the wrong 
coolant in them for that amount of time, you can see where the 
problem lies.


Dennis

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "delorean6859" <tmadsop_at_dml_c...> wrote:

>>
>> A recent thread about concerns for a galvanic reaction between a 

stainless header coolant bottle and aluminum sparked an idea.




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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 02:14:46 -0000
From: "dmc_5180" <dmc_5180_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Grady's, HRC Angle drive

Rob, 

Stephen, did look into an electric speedometer 6 years ago, I saw a 
prototype unit at his shop during they're first open house. It had 
the magnetic signal generator in place of the angle drive gear 
housing.

The head unit was VDO w/digital odometer/trip like most cars today.

but I'm guessing the whole cost was $400

Also the new angle drive gears are a harden steel but I don't know 
how hard. This was according to the fliers they used to send out.

Dennis


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, <rob_at_dml_p...> wrote:

>> 
>> Before I rush off and make more HCR gears I'll have a talk with 

Stephan Winn to find out what the hardness spec is on the new gears. Before Houston built these new ones he asked me for input on the project 




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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2005 20:23:15 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Torsion bar adjustment

I need to loosen my torsion bars. I put new struts on and boy, the
doors fly. Previous owner must have cranked them up big time. Since
I'm 4 hours away from the nearest torsion bar expert (that I know of),
I'm going to buy/build the stuff, grab a buddy and do this in my
garage. Tomorrow.

I've watched this done and I mostly understand the procedure and
potential liabilities. I just need some questions answered:

1. Where can I find a template for building the wood thing at the back
of the car? I've seen this before but of course, didn't save it.

2. Which size bit, and how long should my extensions be?

3. Do I need to prop the doors up and remove the lift struts, or can I
perform this with the doors open & the struts on? My plan is simply to
loosen one notch at a time, put the bolts back in and test the door.

4. While I'm here, I'd like to get a good door prop rod. I've seen
these sold by our vendors but if I need to prop the doors up tomorrow,
I'm going to have to find something locally. Any ideas on what I
should be looking for? If not, I'll make do with something else and
order one from a vendor for next time.

Any other tips or bits of advice would be welcome as well.

Thank you!

-Ryan


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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 03:57:23 -0000
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: vin 11501, first week of ownership blues (crankshaft seal)

Nate,
Congrats on your new Delorean,


OBOY! The Dreaded (D.P.O.) syndrome! It kinda reminded be of the 
Matlock series where Don Knotts,first buys his Delorean and waves at 
Andy Griffin(Matlock)(his Neighbor) on his first maiden ride from his 
home,Only to have it Towed back into his driveway a short while 
later,with Andy Griffin watching it being towed into his 
Driveway,with Don Knotts,in a embarrassed position.If you have not 
seen it you should,it is very entertaining.

If he did a "quick patch job" there,then how much more patch jobs 
were done? Check the sensitive  areas (fuse box and wiring and 
Relays,plastic areas on the radiator,under the intake manifold,fuel 
pump area,taillight area,and anything else that visually looks not 
right.

Regards
cbl


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "natesky1980" <ncskalsk_at_dml_m...> wrote:

>>
>> Last Saturday I was driving the Delorean and developed a serious 

oil leak




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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 04:20:53 -0000
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Drive Shaft Seal

Lingo,


Does the noise sound like it comes from the same side as the seal 
repair?
If it does it coasting,then,you should be able to jack up the rear 
(using a wood 2by wrapped in a rag)
and spin each side(by hand) in Netural,(block the front wheels)and be 
able to better hear the noise,with your ears by each rear wheel when 
spinning(fast) by hand.
Hope that helps,

Regards
cbl




-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_m...> wrote:

>>
>> My car is a manual 5-speed.  I recently replaced a leaky driveshaft 

seal. 

>> Now I hear a clanking sound from the rear of the car when 

coasting.  The 

>> sound stops when I press the accelerator.  I purchased the seal 

from 

>> SpecialT.  Has anyone else experienced this?
>> 
>> Lingo #2034
>>









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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 08:08:31 -0000
From: "Edoardo Auteri" <kin_taro_oe_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: ITAY-JAPAN

Dear Friends, 
I would like to share with you the pictures taken during my meeting in 
Japan (August 27th / September 4th) with the President Osamu Shimohara 
and the official (unique) mechanic of DMC, Tatsuji Tsuji. 

http://www.outatime.it/delorean/giappone/ 

I hope that you enjoy them 
Thanks again for the kind attention
_________________
Edoardo Auteri 
DeLorean Italian Club 
Secretary 
VIN 00788 March 1981







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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 16:43:32 +0100 (BST)
From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Blower motors

Does anyone know what other car used the blower motor? Mine is squealing like a pig, and time I had it changed. I thought they were a bit expensive on www.delorean.com
 
Thanks
Thomas
Belfast

		
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Messenger  NEW - crystal clear PC to PC calling worldwide with voicemail 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 16:57:30 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: B280 engine question

Knock sensors

Martin

Skip Albright wrote:


>>there are two sensors in the valley, that look like you need to take 
>>most of the upper end to get to. what do they do? and do they fail 
>>often? Seems like a nightmare to get to them.
>>
>>thanks
>>
>>Skip
>>
>>  
>>







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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 09:11:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: What else used our alternators?

>From the label on mine;
 
Volts 14    Amp 90
Type 9 AR 2 938 T
SEN 43    AN 81
 
Chris
6301



dmcchaser <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com> wrote:
Also can someone take a look at their Motorola alternator and tell me 
the part number?




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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 12:14:35 -0400
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>
Subject: Re: Torsion bar adjustment

Ryan,

When I did this all I used was the following...

- 2 People (Including myself)
- 1 LONG 3/8" Allen wrench
- Socket and ratchet to remove bolts on torsion bar retainer
- 4' black iron pipe to hold the allen wrench and give leverage.

Obviously with this method you have to remove the louvre's.  Open the door 
as far as it will go and prop it up.  You don't need anything special here, 
just the right length 2x4.  After removing the plastic cover plate hiding 
the mounts, have the other guy put some pressure on the bar with the allen 
wrench and pipe assembly, then you start to loosen the bolts.  The guy 
holding the pipe will quickly get a feel for how much pressure is needed. 
Once you've removed both bolts and the retaining bracket move the pipe 
towards you since you are relieving pressure (if you're doing the drivers 
side, the one with the pipe will be standing on the drivers side of the 
car).  Put the bracket back on and tighten the bolts down.

I've also heard that taking the strut off is a good idea because you can 
move the door up higher, thus relieving more pressure for the guy holding 
the pipe.  Sounds like a good idea, but I did not do it that way so can't 
vouch for it.  But if I had to do this again I would try that method.  The 
other thing you might want to look at is if your bars are hitting the rear 
hinge of the door.  Most people will blame this on the mounting plate being 
bent, but mine is perfectly straight and my bars still rub.  For now I've 
used David T's trick of the rubber between the hinge and the bar, so far so 
good.  But for a more permanent fix you might try putting a washer on the 
outside bolt of the torsion bar retaining bracket, between the metal plate 
it bolts into and the bracket.  You'll notice that the bracket forces the 
bar to bend in a little bit, thus hitting the hinge, by using a washer it 
allows the bar to sit more straight.  So check the bar/hinges before you 
loosen the torsion bars.

Most people will tell you that removing the louvre's is a bad idea because 
they're hard to line back up again.  While this can be true, if you have the 
right tools you can do it in a few minutes.  I've always had good luck using 
a series of "wobbly ratchet extensions".  This allows you to close the 
louvre's and tighten the bolts from the outside since you can guide the 
ratchet out one of the louvre slots.  It's hard to explain using words, but 
works every time.

I've always looked at this process as a little "safer" than using the jig. 
Mainly because you are not relying on so many tools.  If you're using the 
jig you will have to get a lot of extensions and if one of them breaks then 
you're in trouble.  By only using a pipe and allen wrench there are no 
ratchets to break and you're keeping the load right at the bar rather than 
spread over a bunch of extensions.

Sorry this is so long, but there's quite a bit to it, if all goes well 
you'll be done in a matter of minutes.

Good Luck,
Todd Nelson
1561, Vermont
http://www.rit.edu/~tan5732





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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 16:15:43 -0000
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: ITAY-JAPAN

Very nice pictures!  Thank you for sharing!  What are those wires for 
on top of the coolant bottle bracket?

Matt
VIN: 2953

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Edoardo Auteri" <kin_taro_oe_at_dml_h...> 
wrote:

>>
>> Dear Friends, 
>> I would like to share with you the pictures taken during my meeting 

in 

>> Japan (August 27th / September 4th) with the President Osamu 

Shimohara 

>> and the official (unique) mechanic of DMC, Tatsuji Tsuji. 
>> 
>> http://www.outatime.it/delorean/giappone/ 
>> 
>> I hope that you enjoy them 
>> Thanks again for the kind attention
>> _________________
>> Edoardo Auteri 
>> DeLorean Italian Club 
>> Secretary 
>> VIN 00788 March 1981
>>









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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 18:10:50 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Blower motors

Probably nothing you'll find in the UK. It's a GM USA part used on 
the Chevrolet Monza (and maybe some others) of that era with one 
issue - the Chevy cross reference will run backwards. If you reverse 
the wiring it will turn normally and blow tons of air, but now the 
outside of the motor is electrically "hot".

A problem we're starting to see with cross-references is that they 
are starting to "fall out" of the parts supply. The normal boring 
cars that the parts cross to are 25 years old and no longer being 
repaired, so the folks running the parts stores see no reason to keep 
stuff in stock. Stay friendly with your favorite vendor!

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>>
>> Does anyone know what other car used the blower motor? Mine is 

squealing like a pig, and time I had it changed. I thought they were 
a bit expensive on www.delorean.com

>>  
>> Thanks
>> Thomas
>> Belfast









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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 11:23:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jamie Hamlin <jamiepierce2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Paint to match epoxy on frame

I want to touch up the epoxy on my frame does anyone
know a good paint and color that matches
(the car sets inside 99.9% of the time so rust is not an issue)
 
Jamie Hamlin
Vin#2606
Vin#5677


		
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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 11:18:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Torsion bar adjustment

Prop the door up on the door sill, not on the ground.


--- Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com> wrote:
<SNIP>

>> 
>> Any other tips or bits of advice would be welcome as
>> well.
>> 




		
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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 19:05:58 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Torsion bar adjustment

There was an excellant write-up on the torsion bar adjustment in an
old Delorean World. It will answer all of your questions if you can
get your hands on it. In the meantime, If you don't want to build the
thing the next best method is to remove the rear sunshade. You can use
an Allen wrench and a pipe, both easily obtained locally. I am not
sure but I think it is 3/8" for the allen wrench. The pipe should be
at least 3 feet long (4 feet is OK). You DO need to prop the doors
open. Just cut a 2x3 to the right length and wrap a rag on each end.
Do it from the sill to the bottom of the open door, NOT FROM THE
FLOOR! If the car was to move even slightly it could dislodge the prop
and the door would come down. You can leave the strut in place. Use a
pencil or marker to mark the spot the bracket is so you can see when
you move it. You probably need to loosen it 2 splines. Be careful not
to strip the bolts, break the plastic valence, bang or scratch the
torsion bars. Stay away from the rear window and be careful of the
sharp edges on the S/S Tee roof. Stick a 1x2" strip of rubber from an
old inner tube between the torsion bar and the rear hinge. Leave it
there when done. Do not try this alone, get a helper. You could have
some difficulty in sliding the anchors off and you will not do it with
only 1 hand. If the end of the torsion bar (where the allen wrench
goes in) has a crack and you can't get the anchor off do not try to
remove it without EXPERT help. The bar may have cracked and is very
difficult to remove under pressure as it is forcing itself larger in
the anchor bracket (rare but it does happen). Have all your tools
ready in advance so you don't kill your helper. Use towels or fender
covers over the rear facia and the S/S. 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_g...> wrote:

>>
>> I need to loosen my torsion bars. I put new struts on and boy, the
>> doors fly. Previous owner must have cranked them up big time. Since
>>








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