Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2927
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:13 Oct 2005 18:49:20 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Paint to match epoxy on frame
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

2. Re: Re: Drive Shaft Seal
From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>

3. Re: vin 11501, first week of ownership blues (crankshaft seal)
From: "brandelorean" <brandelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. RE: Re: Blower motors
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

5. Re: Re: ITAY-JAPAN
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. ITAY-JAPAN
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

7. RE: oil leak in valley-o-death (was first week of ownership blues (crankshaft seal))
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

8. RE: What else used our alternators?
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

9. RE: Angle Drive Cable Length .... too long?
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

10. RE: Re: Grady's, HRC Angle drive
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

11. Re: Torsion bar adjustment
From: "byrondelorean" <celiambyron_at_dml_msn.com>

12. Re: Blower motors
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

13. Grady's, HRC Angle drive (third post of this email)
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com

14. Noise
From: "tuxr" <tuxdarby_at_dml_msn.com>

15. Re: Re: Grady's, HRC Angle drive
From: <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

16. Struts
From: "gbsdelorean" <gbsdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. Re: Paint to match epoxy on frame
From: "sandorp1" <piszar_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

18. Re: Torsion bar adjustment
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

19. Re: Blower motors
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

20. Re: Struts
From: "Josh Porter" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. Re: oil leak in valley-o-death (was first week of ownership blues (crankshaft seal))
From: "natesky1980" <ncskalsk_at_dml_mtu.edu>

22. Re: Struts
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

23. RE: Paint to match epoxy on frame
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

24. There is another...
From: "Gary Weaver II" <gw2tulsa_at_dml_cox.net>

25. RE: Re: Grady's, HRC Angle drive
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 20:13:34 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Paint to match epoxy on frame

Depending on how much it's discolored (epoxy seems to turn browner) 
over the years, Rustoleum Smoke Grey Gloss is usually very close 
match. POR15 Grey is a better paint but much darker. 

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jamie Hamlin <jamiepierce2000_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:

>>
>> I want to touch up the epoxy on my frame does anyone
>> know a good paint and color that matches
>> (the car sets inside 99.9% of the time so rust is not an issue)
>>  
>> Jamie Hamlin
>> Vin#2606
>> Vin#5677
>> 
>> 
>> 		
>> ---------------------------------
>>  Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.
>> 
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>









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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 15:14:07 -0500
From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Drive Shaft Seal

Dave Swingle made me see the light on this problem.  I needed to turn the 
adjustment assembly one more revolution to fully tighten it down and 
eliminate the rattleing.

thanks


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Wrote:



>> Are you sure you tightened the shaft bolts adequately? Shaft seated
>> properly on flange?
>>
>> Harold McElraft - 3354
>>
>>






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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 20:23:43 -0000
From: "brandelorean" <brandelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: vin 11501, first week of ownership blues (crankshaft seal)

Hey Nate,

Yep, do what he says.  And since you ran the engine again and 
there's more oil, definitely pull the intake out and check the 
valley of death.

All of us are here to help and hopefully you won't have to let the 
car sit till next spring.

Brandon
Vin 3323




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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 16:49:09 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Blower motors

Thomas, Check out my web site on the blower motor. $59.95.
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/blower-motor.html

John Hervey


-----Original Message-----
From:Dave Swingle
Subject: [DML] Re: Blower motors

Probably nothing you'll find in the UK. It's a GM USA part used on 
the Chevrolet Monza (and maybe some others) of that era with one 
issue - the Chevy cross reference will run backwards. If you reverse 
the wiring it will turn normally and blow tons of air, but now the 
outside of the motor is electrically "hot".




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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 13:30:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: ITAY-JAPAN

Looks like a supplemental grounding system.  The one
wire looks like it just bolts to the valve cover bolt,
then that's a junction block up by the water bottle.

Also looks like he has one of those magnets strapped
around one of the fuel lines.  (I think they're
"supposed" to increase milege)

Steve

--- conundrum1984 <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:


>> Very nice pictures!  Thank you for sharing!  What
>> are those wires for 
>> on top of the coolant bottle bracket?





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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 17:54:22 EDT
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: ITAY-JAPAN

 
 
Edoardo,
 
Nicer set of pictures from your trip.  It looks like your otterstat is  in 
the upright position.  Think of that if you have any overheating  problems.
 
D≤ &  6530
Dave  Delman


 
(Still  looking for a pair of door AC vents.)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 18:06:07 -0400
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: RE: oil leak in valley-o-death (was first week of ownership blues (crankshaft seal))

Nate,

Unfortunately it sounds like Todd's diagnosis is probably correct. If you
can't find an external leak it's time to remove the intake manifold and have
a look.

Rob Grady,

P.J.Grady Inc.



-----Original Message-----
From:Todd Nelson
Subject: Re: [DML] oil leak in valley-o-death
Nate,

Doesn't sound good.  In fact it sounds just like some one else's problem in which one of those deep pockets in the valley of death was eaten through into the crank case.




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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 18:27:06 -0400
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: RE: What else used our alternators?

Matt,

None (In the U.S. at least)! The part # won't do you any good as it's been
out of production for over ten years. The Motorola can be rebuilt but a
Delco custom built up for a DeLorean is the better choice. We sell them as
do most of the other vendors (Take your pick!). If you have a Ducy don't
waste any time on it as it was a marginal unit when brand new.

Rob Grady,

P.J.Grady Inc. 

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
dmcchaser
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2005 8:03 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] What else used our alternators?

Hello all,
I'm trying to find out what other vehicles used our Motorola and 
Ducillier alternators.
Does anyone know of a make and year that used the same?  
Also can someone take a look at their Motorola alternator and tell me 
the part number?  Not the Delorean part number, the Motorola number.

Matt







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-- Internal Virus Database is out-of-date. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.8/113 - Release Date: 9/27/2005
-- Internal Virus Database is out-of-date. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.8/113 - Release Date: 9/27/2005 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 9 Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 18:31:59 -0400 From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com> Subject: RE: Angle Drive Cable Length .... too long? Nick, I've seen this problem before and you're right that it's not good. Trimming the end slightly on a bench grinder is the safest way but you could probably do it on the car with a muffler cutter or other grinder if you're very careful. Rob Grady, P.J.Grady Inc. -----Original Message----- From: Nick Kemp Subject: RE: [DML] Angle Drive Cable Length .... too long? The cable I'm referring to is the cable through the axle that is part of the angle drive. I noticed that when I put the plastic hub on all the way that it was moving the angle drive on the other end. ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 10 Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 19:26:19 -0400 From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com> Subject: RE: Re: Grady's, HRC Angle drive David, I've seen you mention "plastic gears" before but I can assure they are not and have NEVER been plastic. Take it from someone who has replaced &/or rebuilt hundreds of angle drives over the years. I still say the only way to make this inherently weak design last longer is harder gears, better lubrication, and tight tolerances on the gear-set via better quality control. Been there done that! The cause most often is that the shallow cut helical gears jamb up due to poor lubrication and even the slightest wear. I have examined many failed units and the gear-sets almost always show wear on the load bearing side of the smaller gear's teeth. I'll send you a few if you want to see it for yourself. The smaller gear then jams momentarily on the larger gear and "poof" goes either the short axle cable or it's interference fit in the larger gear (Of this I m sure). The answer is how best to control the wear or come up with a completely different design that won't "break the bank". I spoke to Stephen this morning about the failures on the new unit's (you can tell them from the originals because they use a grease fitting instead of an, shall we say, oil access screw to allow for re-lubrication. He said the factory blamed the problem on inconsistent fitment of the brass bushings the gears ride in. We're back to poor Q.C.! He did not know if the gears were harder but if the bushings arenít a perfect fit the gears will jamb anyway. He further explained that all of the units are spun for about 15 minutes forwards and backwards on some sort of drill setup to weed out the most obvious ones with Q.C. problems. Personally I have seen about a 10% failure rate on the new units my shop has sold within the last year which is higher than my HCR units after three years so obviously there is room for improvement using the methods I've already indicated. The next step is to have the FACTORY incorporate similar methods so I won't, or you, have to spend countless hours stuffing tiny little gears into teeny little gearboxes with handmade pressed in cables! I'm tired of it and can think of better ways to make a living such as restoring DeLorean's instead of angle drives. If I have to however I will... but I think we should give the factory ONE more chance to get it right as I'd hate to see another thousand lot batch of angle drives with the same problem. I'm going to start by taking the next failed new angle drive apart and checking the tolerances and send the gears out for hardness testing. I'll report my findings to Stephan and see if we can get the longevity of this lousy design into at least the forty to fifty thousand mile range. I believe in many cases I achieved this with the HCR units (Stands for "Hard core rebuilt" for those who would pose the question) using the methods I already suggested. I'll update you when I have more to offer. Rob Grady P.J.Grady Inc. -----Original Message----- From: David Teitelbaum Subject: [DML] Re: Grady's, HRC Angle drive I wonder just how much "hardness" plays a role in the longevity of the gearset. In many instances of gearsets one gear is purposly made softer than another so that you only replace 1 gear instead of 2. In any case there are many origional angle drives out there still operating with plastic gears. ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 11 Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 00:36:30 -0000 From: "byrondelorean" <celiambyron_at_dml_msn.com> Subject: Re: Torsion bar adjustment I would research your door situation further before you adjust the torsion bars. I spoke to Ed Bernstein a while back and I recall a statement he made regarding torsion bar adjustment. "the Torsion bar should never need adjusting form factory stock" "Simply buy new pistons" I believe he said that evryone believed that torsion bar adjustment was the way to fix a low slung door, and actually illustrated the torsion bar adjustment methods in DW magazine. I am fortunate to have a Delorean with very little use, so I am unsure of individual situations to comment with clear vision. My dad bought two Deloreans brand new, I own one of them. I recall as a kid how the doors opned. It is exactly the same way they open know after I installed new struts. When the doors open, the door will bounce a couple times when fully sprung in warm climate. If your doors fly up more harsh, you may want to simply open the door and guide it to a slow stop instead of potentially damaging your car. The fact your doors open fast is a suggestion it may be right. Byron --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_g...> wrote:

>>
>> I need to loosen my torsion bars. I put new struts on and boy, the
>> doors fly. Previous owner must have cranked them up big time. Since





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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 00:55:38 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Blower motors

The reason most start squealing is, usually, the lower bearing 
surface of the motor shaft has gotten moisture in it and the felt 
that lubricates the bearing surface of the shaft has dried out. 
Shine a strong light into the breathing hole of the motor you will 
see it. Clean the lower area out and put some thin oil on the felt 
(I think I used 5w-30 the last time I did it). It will absorb quite 
a bit - maybe a half teaspoon. Clean the blower cage off - don't 
remove the balancing weights - and it should work like new.

Harold McElraft - 3354


-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>>
>> Does anyone know what other car used the blower motor? Mine is 

squealing like a pig, and time I had it changed. I thought they were 
a bit expensive on www.delorean.com

>>  
>> Thanks
>> Thomas
>> Belfast





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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 21:07:03 EDT
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Grady's, HRC Angle drive (third post of this email)

Hello;
 
I'm ready to put my money where my mouth is and ask for a pre-order for HCR  
angle drives and other performance products from PJ Grady's...similar to the 
DMC  Houston Headlight switch preorder. 
 
Come on guys (D owners), step up to plate and play!
 
Who else wants to join in on the fun?  
 
Sincerely,
Mike Pack
 




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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 01:17:14 -0000
From: "tuxr" <tuxdarby_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Noise

I bought some sound deadening material at Circuit City, layered alot 
of it behind the back wall.  Seems to have worked to an extent for 
engine noise (of course not perfect, but helped), of course there are 
alot of other places where the noise comes in, particularly the 
floor.  I plan on taking out the seats and putting alot of it on the 
floor.  Total cost was about $90 for the back wall, and will be $90 
for underneath each of the seats.  Pricey, but I'm hoping it works.  
Has anyone had any experience in this, or will I be wasting my money I 
could use to reserve a couple of the angle drives everyone has been 
talking about?  To take the seats out, it looks pretty 
straightforward, just unscrew from the bottom and it's done, am I 
missing anything?  This is a daily driver, a quieter car will make a 
difference, I drive it 65 miles each way to work.  (Am I the only one 
that drives it like this, anyone else put this type of mileage on it, 
or do I win the prize?).







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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 20:43:36 -0500
From: <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Grady's, HRC Angle drive

I've seen plastic gears refered to more than once on the list. I've rebuilt
a couple of angle drives starting with the original one that came with my
car when new. Both had brass gears. Was there a change in angle drives at
some point during the production years?

Bruce Benson


>> In any case there are many origional angle drives out >there still
>> operating with plastic gears.


>> David Teitelbaum
>> vin 10757






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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 02:13:05 -0000
From: "gbsdelorean" <gbsdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Struts

Dear Owners
Was looking at a Delorean and the owner said that the doors droop in 
winter because the struts are gas filled and set for 72 degrees, temps 
much below that will cause the gas to exert less pressure.

Now my new Nissan has gas struts and I never noticed that, am I 
correct in believeing that 'cold temps cause wing droop' might be a 
stretch?  (pun somewhat intended...)

Thanks
GBS 








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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 02:20:30 -0000
From: "sandorp1" <piszar_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Paint to match epoxy on frame

I had a spot on one of my tow hooks that needed touching up, and 
Rustoleum Industrial Light Machine Gray was a PERFECT match.


Sandor




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jamie Hamlin <jamiepierce2000_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:

>>
>> I want to touch up the epoxy on my frame does anyone
>> know a good paint and color that matches
>> (the car sets inside 99.9% of the time so rust is not an issue)
>>  
>> Jamie Hamlin
>> Vin#2606
>> Vin#5677
>> 
>> 
>> 		
>> ---------------------------------
>>  Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.
>> 
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>









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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 04:17:41 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: Torsion bar adjustment

Byron - You may not have noticed the intent of this thread, but Ryan 
is actually installing new struts, and is assuming that the PO 
(previous owner) had adjusted the torsion bars in the past, rather 
than installing new struts.  So, with his new struts, he finds that 
the doors have too much energy.  Ryan also has remote door openers, 
so being there every time to guide the doors open would take 
something away from the utility of the remote operation.  Ed is 
probably right in that the torsion bars should not require frequent 
periodic adjustment when set properly for a new set of struts.  The 
reality is that people will naturally want to save some money by 
adjusting things like this, rather than buying new parts, when 
tooling and help is available.  I have not touched my torsion bars 
for nearly 8 years (1997) because they were adjusted for a very good 
set of struts that are still in there and working perfectly.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "byrondelorean" <celiambyron_at_dml_m...> 
wrote:

>>
>> I would research your door situation further before you adjust the 
>> torsion bars. I spoke to Ed Bernstein a while back and I recall a 
>> statement he made regarding torsion bar adjustment. "the Torsion 

bar should never need adjusting form factory stock" "Simply buy new 

>> pistons" 








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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 03:53:47 -0000
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Blower motors


Thomas,

Harold is correct,but the danger is that if it has gotten that bad,it 
is just putting a band-aid on a damaged item(the bearing part)it will 
quiet it down most likely,but the damage to the bearing is(might be) 
already done(and combined with the age)could acutally cause it to 
catch fire! As the bad bearing,can actually heat up,and use the new 
lube,as fuel.(ask me how I know)I had one catch fire on me on a GM car
(they are made by Delco-Remy)and the same as most 1980's GM cars,(in 
size, shape, and looks)but from what I understand,the main difference 
is it runs backwards from the standard GM models,so you have to make 
sure you get the correct one.It is possible to change the bearing,but 
a real p.i.t.a. to do,and just not worth it.Also the OTHER end of the 
shaft would need lube to at the same time,as that end might also be 
seizing.

Hope that helps
cbl



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_a...> 
wrote:

>>
>> The reason most start squealing is, usually, the lower bearing 
>> surface of the motor shaft has gotten moisture in it and the felt 
>> that lubricates the bearing surface of the shaft has dried out. 





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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 04:00:13 -0000
From: "Josh Porter" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Struts

I believe that is correct. When working on my car in the nice cool 
weather the driver door droops. I have a video from Tamir's website 
that has Bob Gale explaining the BTTF crew discovering this.

 On a Nissan it is probably the hood or trunk? They are not as heavy 
has the doors on a DeLorean so maybe that has something to do with it?

Josh
10989


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "gbsdelorean" <gbsdelorean_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:

>>
>> Dear Owners
>> Was looking at a Delorean and the owner said that the doors droop 

in 

>> winter because the struts are gas filled and set for 72 degrees, 

temps 

>> much below that will cause the gas to exert less pressure.
>> 
>> Now my new Nissan has gas struts and I never noticed that, am I 
>> correct in believeing that 'cold temps cause wing droop' might be a 
>> stretch?  (pun somewhat intended...)
>> 
>> Thanks
>> GBS
>>









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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 11:10:42 -0000
From: "natesky1980" <ncskalsk_at_dml_mtu.edu>
Subject: Re: oil leak in valley-o-death (was first week of ownership blues (crankshaft seal))

I figured as much, I was hoping it could be anything other than a 
defect in the block.  

I took the intake off this morning (early).  Three of the four bolts 
that secure the manifold were easy to remove, the fourth was 
completely seized.  I had let it sit in penetrating oil for 24hours, 
to no avail it broke anyway.  About a half inch of the bolt is still 
exposed.  Oh well, one more thing.

It was a gory sight under the manifold.  I vacumed as much as I could 
and was taking near handfuls of sludge out of the recesses.  In one 
the deaper recesses near the front (flywheel side) there is a 
1/16inch diameter hole in the bottom on the side.  I'm trying to be 
careful not to get any of this sludge in the hole, its very coarse, 
oil and sand mixture.  This car has been slowly leaking for some 
time, it may be that the whole enlarged itself recently.

I'll take good pictures once I clean things up.  I'm still open to 
suggestions concerning a repair. I realize that the engine (or at 
least block) will have to be replaced in the not-so-distant future, 
however I'd like to make a few payments on the thing before I put 
that kind of money into it.  I belive there is got to be a way to 
patch it.  

One idea of mine was to drill out the channel so it is round and 
tap/cap it with a short bolt (putting paper in the bottom first to 
catch shavings).  I'm not sure if there's enough material.

The other was since it has french roots, to put a small amount of 
cork material and wedge it down there good, and follow up with two-
part epoxy mix on top of that.  That would keep epoxy from seaping 
into the oil resevor via the unauthorized hole.  

The third idea was to have a aluminum arc welder stick a rod down the 
recess and seal the hole shut (no idea if thats pratical).  Its hard 
to get the metal clean enough for one thing.

Or perhaps maybe a large bit of rubber seal, sized to just larger 
than the recess and 'installed' with a rubber mallot and sealed would 
do it.

Anyway, I know these are all patches.  Some of you would likely 
suggest I just bite the bullet and replace at least the block.  I 
couldn't afford to if I wanted to, so the car would have to sit for 
many-a-month (maybe into the year scale) until I could.  This way I 
can get the car on the road, and cautiously enjoy it while I fiqure 
out/enact a better long term solution.  

Any comments/suggestions are more than welcome, they are needed. 
Thanks!

-Nate

Vin 11501



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, <rob_at_dml_p...> wrote:

>>
>> Nate,
>> 
>> Unfortunately it sounds like Todd's diagnosis is probably correct. 

If you

>> can't find an external leak it's time to remove the intake manifold 

and have

>> a look.
>> 
>> Rob Grady,
>> 
>> P.J.Grady Inc.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From:Todd Nelson
>> Subject: Re: [DML] oil leak in valley-o-death
>> Nate,
>> 
>> Doesn't sound good.  In fact it sounds just like some one else's 

problem in which one of those deep pockets in the valley of death was 
eaten through into the crank case.

>>









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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 07:18:51 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Struts

Nope - simple gas laws state that a gas has lower pressure at lower 
temperature.

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "gbsdelorean" <gbsdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>: -------------- 



>> Dear Owners 
>> Was looking at a Delorean and the owner said that the doors droop in 
>> winter because the struts are gas filled and set for 72 degrees, temps 
>> much below that will cause the gas to exert less pressure. 
>> 
>> Now my new Nissan has gas struts and I never noticed that, am I 
>> correct in believeing that 'cold temps cause wing droop' might be a 
>> stretch? (pun somewhat intended...) 
>> 
>> Thanks 
>> GBS 
>> 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 08:53:44 -0400
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: RE: Paint to match epoxy on frame

Jamie,

If you want an exact match for the epoxy on your frame just order part #'s
109264 & 109265 from us or your favorite vendor. It is the original two part
epoxy but count on a couple of days drying time because that happens when
epoxy components sit on the shelf for extended periods (Like about 24
years!). It's OK though...once it dries it'll be fine.

Rob Grady

P.J.Grady Inc.

-----Original Message-----
From:Jamie Hamlin
Subject: [DML] Paint to match epoxy on frame

I want to touch up the epoxy on my frame does anyone
know a good paint and color that matches
(the car sets inside 99.9% of the time so rust is not an issue)




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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 12:44:24 -0000
From: "Gary Weaver II" <gw2tulsa_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: There is another...

Well, look at that. I was driving in late to the office this morning 
and saw another Delorean on the Broken Arrow Expressway...

As near as I could tell it was an 82 or 83 with the flat hood and 
sidestripes. Plate number was 962-ZCK

Not sure if they are on the DML, but if you are I'd love to hear from 
you.

Gary Weaver II
Grey, 5 speed, 81









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Message: 25
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 07:17:02 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: RE: Re: Grady's, HRC Angle drive

We really need to look at the speedo drive mechanism from a
system perspective.  Focusing on the angle drive alone isn't 
enough.  All of that wear you are seeing is because of the 
load on the output side from the speedo cables and 
lambda counter.  The lower cable needs to spin freely 
in it's sleeve, and the lambda counter must also move
freely.  Any binding in either will increase the load on 
the angle drive and cause the wear you are seeing.  Tight
radius curves in the cables, pinching the cables with 
cable ties, dirt and poor lubrication in the cable will
damage any angle drive, no matter how hard the gears.

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>: -------------- 



>> David, 
>> 
>> I've seen you mention "plastic gears" before but I can assure they are not 
>> and have NEVER been plastic. Take it from someone who has replaced &/or 
>> rebuilt hundreds of angle drives over the years. I still say the only way to 
>> make this inherently weak design last longer is harder gears, better 
>> lubrication, and tight tolerances on the gear-set via better quality 
>> control. Been there done that! 
>> 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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