Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2928
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:13 Oct 2005 23:54:19 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 10 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Re: Torsion bar adjustment
From: "Michael Substelny" <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>

2. RE: Re: Drive Shaft Seal
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

3. RE: Re: Grady's, HRC Angle drive
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

4. Re: angle drive
From: Dan Haney <DRHANEY_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

5. BTTF Screening Ft Lauderdale THIS SAT NITE!
From: "Dan Harris" <whocruiser_at_dml_aol.com>

6. Re: Noise
From: "S" <theborderisopen_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Radiator install questions
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>

8. Re: Re: Torsion bar adjustment
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

9. Re: Noise
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>

10. Headlight Switch Decals
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 08:43:58 -0400
From: "Michael Substelny" <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>
Subject: RE: Re: Torsion bar adjustment

Byron said:


>> I spoke to Ed Bernstein a while back
>> and I recall a statement he made
>> regarding torsion bar adjustment.
>> "the Torsion bar should never
>> need adjusting form factory stock"
>> "Simply buy new pistons"


I agree that the statement attributed to Mr. Bernstein applies to most
DeLoreans.  However, if you do something which changes the mass of a
door the statement no longer applies.

If you make a door heavier you may need to increase the energy stored in
its torsion bar.  If you make a door lighter you may need to reduce the
energy stored in its bar.  Examples include: adding door guides,
replacing door solenoids with heavier or lighter models, replacing
window motors with heavier or lighter models, and completely removing
solenoids or window motors.

Those struts work hard and they do wear out.  If your doors open nicely
on warm days but sag on cold days you should try new struts before you
adjust the torsion bars.  Take your torsion bars seriously.  There is
probably no part on a DeLorean you would regret abusing more than those
powerful and unique cryo-twist torsion bars!

- Mike Substelny
  VIN 01280
  Very respectful of my torsion bars





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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 09:41:59 -0400
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Drive Shaft Seal

Robert,

I think you misunderstood what Harold &/or Dave was saying. I'm sure they
were referring to the C.V. shaft bolts. It sounds like you took off the
differential preload adjuster nut like the workshop manual mistakenly
recommends. If you do this without marking a reference point and noting the
number of turns you are potentially in deep trouble as you cannot reset the
preload without a complete teardown. Note to others...DON'T DO THAT! It's
much safer to remove the seal without touching the adjuster.

Rob Grady,

P.J.Grady Inc.

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Robert Lingo
Sent: Wednesday, October 12, 2005 4:14 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Drive Shaft Seal

Dave Swingle made me see the light on this problem.  I needed to turn the 
adjustment assembly one more revolution to fully tighten it down and 
eliminate the rattleing.

thanks


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Wrote:



>> Are you sure you tightened the shaft bolts adequately? Shaft seated
>> properly on flange?
>>
>> Harold McElraft - 3354
>>
>>






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-- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.14/130 - Release Date: 10/12/2005
-- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.14/130 - Release Date: 10/12/2005 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 3 Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 09:48:47 -0400 From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com> Subject: RE: Re: Grady's, HRC Angle drive Bruce & Dave, The stock gears are not brass and they're not plastic. They are STEEL...VERY SOFT STEEL. Is anybody listening? Rob Grady, P.J.Grady Inc. -----Original Message----- From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com Sent: Wednesday, October 12, 2005 9:44 PM To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Grady's, HRC Angle drive I've seen plastic gears refered to more than once on the list. I've rebuilt a couple of angle drives starting with the original one that came with my car when new. Both had brass gears. Was there a change in angle drives at some point during the production years? Bruce Benson

>> In any case there are many origional angle drives out >there still
>> operating with plastic gears.


>> David Teitelbaum
>> vin 10757





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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 10:28:14 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dan Haney <DRHANEY_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: angle drive

David Teitelbaum wrote:


>>On the subject of the difficulty in lubricating the angle drive, I ask, how many owners lubricate theirs
>>and how often?



Vin 3254 - No and never
Original Angle Drive still on car and working great! (Knock on Wood!)

Dan Haney
Vin 3254

________________________________________
PeoplePC Online
A better way to Internet
http://www.peoplepc.com




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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 14:59:06 -0000
From: "Dan Harris" <whocruiser_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: BTTF Screening Ft Lauderdale THIS SAT NITE!

Sorry for the short notice everyone, but I only found out about this 
earlier today!

The Fort Lauderdale International Film Festival will be 
screening "Back To The Future" and the new documentary "Fans Of The 
Future" THIS Saturday night, 15 October.  The films start at 9:45pm, 
and after contacting my old friend Greg Von Hausch, the festival 
director, we now have a reserved, spot lit area out in front of the 
theatre to park and display several of our cars at the screening.  Of 
the local Ft Lauderdale bunch so far, I'll be there with 1662 and 
Steve Alves will be there with 2700, and hopefully a few more of you 
will make it out there too.  Obviously these two yahoo Groups (DMC 
News and FLDMC) are good public points to spread the news and make 
contact with each other if you want to come.  BTTF is scheduled to 
start at 9:45pm, the film before that starts at 8pm, and the one 
before that at 6pm.  I'm assuming then that we'd do best to plan to 
arrive and set up AFTER the 6pm film starts, but BEFORE the crowds 
begin come for the 8pm film, so we can target arrival around 7pm to 
display for the rest of the evening.  The screening is in downtown 
Fort Lauderdale at the Cinema Paradiso, located at 503 SE 6 Street, 
Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301 (Box Office Phone is 954-525-FILM)  
Festival web site is at www.fliff.com  If anyone gets lost on the 
way, my cell phone is 954-232-3448.

See y'all there - Dan Harris - VIN#1662 - FL Tag# MY 81DMC




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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 16:03:30 -0000
From: "S" <theborderisopen_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Noise

I guess that would depend on how much total mileage you've put on it


I drive it 65 miles each way to work.  (Am I the only one 

>> that drives it like this, anyone else put this type of mileage on 

it, 

>> or do I win the prize?).
>>









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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 11:04:00 -0700
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: Radiator install questions

I'm putting in a new metal radiator and cooling fans and have a couple
of questions:

I've got the car up on ramps, wishing I had a lift.  Is it going to be
easier to unbolt the radiator top support brackets at the radiator, the
frame, or both before removing the old radiator and fans?

The nuts at the top of the radiator are a real pain to get to, should I
lower the radiator, fans and condenser as an assembly so that it is
easier to get to the top mounting nuts/studs on the condenser?

When its time to check the fans for proper rotation I need to switch on
the ignition and jump out the otterstat wires together (I can't run the
engine as intake manifold is off)?




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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 11:58:49 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Torsion bar adjustment

On 10/12/05, Toby Peterson <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com> wrote:

>> Byron - You may not have noticed the intent of this thread, but Ryan
>> is actually installing new struts, and is assuming that the PO
>> (previous owner) had adjusted the torsion bars in the past, rather
>> than installing new struts.  So, with his new struts, he finds that
>> the doors have too much energy.


Exactly.

The old struts were obviously weak and it's almost certain the torsion
bars were tightened to compensate before I bought the car. My new
struts cause the doors to fly open like a rocket, and that's not the
struts' fault. Quite frankly I can't imagine why anyone would crank up
the torsion bars to save a measly hundred bucks on struts. Anyway,
after I reset mine I should never have to touch them again - just
replace the struts when the doors start to sag.

Thanks to everyone for your input. I have the tools and info I need to
get this done, and my helper is coming over this evening. With any
luck I won't be back here begging for a new rear windshield and/or
torsion bar later tonight.

-Ryan


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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 18:07:28 -0000
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Noise

My D is a daily driver also.  I put about 50 miles a day on it, so 
you have me beat for distance.  

I think the engine noise is remarkably low. I do catch a bunch of 
road noise here in Vegas, especially from elevated grooved highway.  
Not sure whether it's my tires (Michelin Pilots) or what. It's a low 
frequency vibration that's unpleasant. For awhile, the tires were a 
little over-inflated. Reducing them to 23 front, 30 rear made a huge 
difference in ride and general vibration/noise. 

Of course, most of the time, I'm driving too slowly in rush hour 
traffic for any of the above to be much of a factor. I really 
haven't been able to establish whether I get more noise pollution 
from the exterior of the passenger compartment or from my stereo.  :) 

Just for grins, I recently considered picking up a noise-cancelling 
headset to see what difference that might make, but I don't want to 
cancel out stuff I "should" hear (like horns, sirens and tire noise 
from adjacent vehicles when the windows are open). It would 
certainly be less work than adding passive insulation and "maybe" 
roughly equal in price. Plus, it has a great geek factor.

Marv
#10820

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "tuxr" <tuxdarby_at_dml_m...> wrote:

>>
>> I bought some sound deadening material at Circuit City, layered 
>> alot of it behind the back wall.  Seems to have worked to an 
>> extent for engine noise (of course not perfect, but helped)...


>> This is a daily driver, a quieter car will make a 
>> difference, I drive it 65 miles each way to work.  (Am I the only 
>> one that drives it like this, anyone else put this type of mileage 
>> on it, or do I win the prize?).










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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 11:23:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Headlight Switch Decals

I've been getting alot of emails recently about my headlight switch decal. So I
put the file up here for others who want to make their own.  
http://www.ohiodeloreans.com/gallery-TipsTricksMods.htm
Instructions on how I installed it are on the PDF file.

Shannon Y
16506


	
		
__________________________________ 
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 
http://mail.yahoo.com




________________________________________________________________________
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