Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2929
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:14 Oct 2005 14:23:49 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Struts
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

2. Re: oil leak in valley-o-death (was first week of ownership blues (crankshaft se
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

3. Re: Blower motors
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>

4. Re: Re: Drive Shaft Seal
From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>

5. RE: Radiator install questions
From: "Cameron, Peter" <cameron_at_dml_bnl.gov>

6. Re: oil leak in valley-o-death (was first week of ownership blues (crankshaft seal))
From: "brandelorean" <brandelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Re: What else used our alternators?
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>

8. Re: Grady's, HRC Angle drive
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>

9. Re: What else used our alternators?
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

10. Ft Laud BTTF Screening Update
From: "Dan Harris" <whocruiser_at_dml_aol.com>

11. RE: Struts
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

12. RE: Noise
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

13. Re: Noise
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

14. RE: Grady's, HRC Angle drive (third post of this email)
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

15. Re: What else used our alternators?
From: "Jason" <rowejj_at_dml_tds.net>

16. DMA - Fall Tour VI - Website and photos
From: Delorean Mid-Altantic Club <clubevents_at_dml_deloreanmidatlantic.com>

17. Seeking lower link
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

18. RE: There is another...
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

19. Re: Re: Torsion bar adjustment
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

20. RE: Re: oil leak in valley-o-death (was first week of ownership blues (crankshaft seal))
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

21. Re: What else used our alternators?
From: Qumefox <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>

22. Re: Re: oil leak in valley-o-death (was first week of ownership blues (crankshaft se
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>

23. DML Owner's Map
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

24. Re: oil leak in valley-o-death (was first week of ownership blues (crankshaft se
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

25. Re: oil leak in valley-o-death (was first week of ownership blues (crankshaft seal))
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 12:00:53 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Struts

On 10/12/05, gbsdelorean <gbsdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:

>> Dear Owners
>> Was looking at a Delorean and the owner said that the doors droop in
>> winter because the struts are gas filled and set for 72 degrees, temps
>> much below that will cause the gas to exert less pressure.
>>
>> Now my new Nissan has gas struts and I never noticed that, am I
>> correct in believeing that 'cold temps cause wing droop' might be a
>> stretch?  (pun somewhat intended...)
>>
>> Thanks
>> GBS


Nope -- This is perfectly normal. Previous owner was being honest with you.

However, Toby _at_dml_ DPNW sells a set of temperature compensating struts
that are supposed to fix this from my understanding. I just bought a
pair myself earlier this week.

-Ryan


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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 19:32:47 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: oil leak in valley-o-death (was first week of ownership blues (crankshaft se

Probably the "best" way to repair the block is to use an epoxy and
just fill the cavity. You will not get it clean enough to weld without
completely disassembling it and you also have the danger of fire. You
would also get slag in from the welding. Even though you may have some
of the broken bolt exposed it won't help much. The only thing you can
try is to heat it up to cherry red, let it cool, and try with a
vise-grip. After it breaks off you will have to drill it out. Retap
all the holes and check the threads, you may have to retap and
heli-coil some of the others, sometimes when the bolts come out they
remove the aluminum threads as they unscrew. In that case you will
never be able to properly tighten up the parts to the necessary
clamping pressure. Use never-seize on all the threads as you
reassemble. The block is salvageable, you do not need to replace it,
it can be repaired. I would, after a proper repair, do an oil change
and oil filter. The sand you found is what is left after you evaporate
anti-freeze, it is part of the additive package, mostly for sealing
small leaks. The anti-freeze collects in the recesses and boils off so
you never see the leaks. You should probably also drain, flush, and
replace with fresh anti-freeze. The old stuff may have gone bad and is
corrosive. Especially if it is over 4 years old. If you do weld it the
way to go is to make a small plate and weld it in. Trying to weld the
hole shut will not be easy, the metal is thin and corroded where the
hole is. Maybe just epoxy the plate in near the top and leave it at that.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "natesky1980" <ncskalsk_at_dml_m...> wrote:

>>
>> I figured as much, I was hoping it could be anything other than a 
>> defect in the block.  
>> 
>> I took the intake off this morning (early).  Three of the four bolts 
>> that secure the manifold were easy to remove, the fourth was 
>> completely seized.  I had let it sit in penetrating oil for 24hours, 
>> to no avail it broke anyway.  About a half inch of the bolt is still 
>> exposed.  Oh well, one more thing.
>> 
>> 








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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 19:52:20 -0000
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Blower motors

I used a blower from Action Auto Parts, they were able to cross 
reference the AC Delco number 15-895 to their number PM106 or that 
might be BM106, my reciept isn't that clear.
I haven't checked to see if it spins the right way, but it does blow 
air.
Hope that helps.
Matt


>> -- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>
>>> >
>>> > Does anyone know what other car used the blower motor? Mine is 
>
>> squealing like a pig, and time I had it changed. I thought they were 
>> a bit expensive on www.delorean.com
>
>>> >  
>>> > Thanks
>>> > Thomas
>>> > Belfast
>
>>









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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 14:59:59 -0500
From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Drive Shaft Seal

Argggggggg!!!  That manual has gotten me nearly in trouble twice now.  Once 
with the timing chains and now this....   I really hope I got it fixed 
because I don't want to do a complete tear down of the tranny.  I haven't 
heard a peep from the drivers side drive shaft since I reset the adjuster 
nut.  The passenger side appears to be leaking now though.  Any advice on 
that side before I look at the workshop manual again?

Lingo #2034


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2005 8:41 AM
Subject: RE: [DML] Re: Drive Shaft Seal



>> Robert,
>>

 It sounds like you took off the differential preload adjuster nut like the 
workshop manual mistakenly

>> recommends. If you do this without marking a reference point and noting 
>> the
>> number of turns you are potentially in deep trouble as you cannot reset 
>> the
>> preload without a complete teardown. Note to others...DON'T DO THAT! It's
>> much safer to remove the seal without touching the adjuster.
>>
>> Rob Grady,
>>
>> P.J.Grady Inc.
>>






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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 16:02:46 -0400
From: "Cameron, Peter" <cameron_at_dml_bnl.gov>
Subject: RE: Radiator install questions

Tom,
 
I did this replacement (radiator only, not the fans) recently on my car, on ramps as you are. I unbolted the fans and condensor and left them in place, supported with sash cord. I removed the plastic duct/surround, which required a bit of bending but came out (and went back in) OK. Disconnected the support brackets at the frame, and reprimed and painted them while I had them out, as they were showing a bit of rust. I also ended up pulling out the wire mesh grille from the front to get access to some of the nuts, and cleaned, reprimed, and painted that while I had it out.When it came time to reinstall radiator, I left in place the protective cardboard sheets that were taped to the radiator when I got it from Grady, then pulled them out after radiator was in place. And to state the obvious, I replaced every hose I could at the same time. Everything came apart and went back together fairly easily, tho as you say the nuts on the top were a bit of a reach. 
 
Pete Cameron
vin 3579

	-----Original Message----- 
	From: Tom Tait 
	Subject: [DML] Radiator install questions
	
	

	I'm putting in a new metal radiator and cooling fans and have a couple of questions:




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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 20:25:00 -0000
From: "brandelorean" <brandelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: oil leak in valley-o-death (was first week of ownership blues (crankshaft seal))

Hey Nate,

Did a dealership sell you this car?  There are laws against selling 
a car like this where they say everything is great and just patch up 
the holes so it'll last for a day.  Especially when a person 
knowingly does this.  Take him to Judge Judy, she'd refund all your 
money and let you keep the car  :) 

It truly is ridiculous that you only got to drive it for a couple 
hours and then this happens and now the car is pretty much in the 
condition mine is.....inoperable.  

You could just buy a new block, or a used block, and slap everything 
back together....which would cost you probably around 1k to 1.5k 
like it says on Michael Babb's site.  Way better than trying to band-
aid it.  Or if you didn't get the car for TOO much, you could just 
put a Stage II engine in it, which in turn increases the value of 
your car (as most on DMCH's site are selling in the 31k range).

Before you go patching, think of the long term investment and what 
you want out of the car.  If you're not thinking of selling the car 
EVER, throw an Eagle Premier engine in there or pick up a used block 
& slap your cars stuff back on.  Pretty much the only choices you 
have.

Brandon
Vin 3323

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "natesky1980" <ncskalsk_at_dml_m...> wrote:

>>
>> I figured as much, I was hoping it could be anything other than a 
>> defect in the block.  
>> 
>> I took the intake off this morning (early).  Three of the four 

bolts 

>> that secure the manifold were easy to remove, the fourth was 
>> completely seized.  I had let it sit in penetrating oil for 

24hours, 

>> to no avail it broke anyway.  About a half inch of the bolt is 

still 

>> exposed.  Oh well, one more thing.









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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 21:50:40 -0000
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: What else used our alternators?

All,

While we are talking about Alternators:

For sale to the highest bidder!  An original Ducy alternator for the 
DeLorean, just removed from the car, replaced with a SpecialTAuto 
140 Amp unit, the Ducy works, but I can guarantee you don't want to 
reinstall in on any D, that you drive at night in the summer, talk 
about light dimming and loss of power.  If your looking to replace a 
one on a Concours car let me know.

Bernie




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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 21:53:54 -0000
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Grady's, HRC Angle drive

I have only done it once so far since the car is new to me.

I was able to do it in about 10 mins without lifting the car.  Just 
turned the wheels hard to one side to gain access. I vaguely recall 
doing most of the work from the rear, so hard right makes sense?

It was easy enough to do that I plan to do it at every oil change.  


Marv 
#10820


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_o...> 
wrote:


>> On the subject of the difficulty in
>> lubricating the angle drive, I ask, how many owners lubricate 

theirs

>> and how often?
>> David Teitelbaum
>> vin 10757










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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 22:35:51 -0000
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: What else used our alternators?

Re: What else used our alternators?



Matt,

If your orignal alternator is going or dead,TRY to stay away from a 
orignal DMC alternators,One of the MAIN reasons for Delorean engine 
fires(on the lower bottom part of the engines)was in  fact from the 
low amperage(output) of the factory alternators,as they were marginal 
AT BEST,when working correct,but when they started having 
problems/acting up watch out!,And as explained in previous posts,when 
the original alternators,don't produce enough current,
(ie:failing,granted the battery acts to satisfy this demand,but only 
to a certain extent)to satisfy THE demands of running the engine
(ie:spark)some fuel may not get burned,which in turn gets passed down 
the line,into the catholic Converter,and if enough unburned fuel is 
allowed to get into the catholic converter,it in itself,becomes it's 
own combustion chamber!! Which in turn burns this unburned fuel,BUT 
unlike the engine(it has no radiators or cooling system,except for 
air flow,and being WAY back of the car in the Delorean,when 
overheated) has nowhere to expel this white hot heat,that is 
generated,so the Catholic converter in itself,now becomes a white hot 
glowing radiator,which in turn,is now trying to expel the heat into 
the air,BUT being in a confined area,in this case(in a Delorean)it is 
incased in a BIG plastic box!!  So the first things to transfer this 
heat to is ANY shields,then to any metal(namely the frame rail
(s),since the frame rail is coated in epoxy,it shields(takes) some of 
the heat,up to a certain point,then that starts melting/or burning
(the epoxy),which then completes the cycle which is to expand(or 
radiate) onto the fiberglass sides of the engine pontoons,once that 
happens,then it becomes a melting pot of fuel,which the heat/ fire 
could feed upon itself. I would stress not to use the original 
alternators(especially the Ducies or is it the Motorolas,either 
way),and go with the vendors updated GM higher amp alternators.LOOK 
at any Delorean that had a lower case engine fire,and 99% of them 
started at or by the converter.(where the burn started from)
Granted,some were started by electrical or gas line failures,or poor 
repair,but those are usually on the top side of the engine,NOT the 
bottom side of the engine.Malcom Bricklin saw a issue in that and 
USED NO CAT converters on his car.That is when,you usually hear the 
stories about someone cruising along in their D,and their cars catch 
on fire mysteriously in the engine compartment.

Hope this helps

cbl






--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_j...> wrote:

>>
>> Hello all,
>> I'm trying to find out what other vehicles used our Motorola and 
>> Ducillier alternators.
>> Does anyone know of a make and year that used the same?  
>> Also can someone take a look at their Motorola alternator and tell 

me 

>> the part number?  Not the Delorean part number, the Motorola number.
>> 
>> Matt
>>









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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 22:42:07 -0000
From: "Dan Harris" <whocruiser_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Ft Laud BTTF Screening Update

I just spoke to Kevin Bosch, the director of Fans Of The Future, and 
he's looking forward to having us there at the theatre this Saturday 
night.  He called to let me know that the screenings are FREE, despite 
some media PR that may mistakenly state otherwise.  But you'll still 
have to pay for the popcorn and drinks of course   ;-) 

See y'all there...







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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 18:41:41 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Struts

Most struts will drop, but if the doors is adjusted properly and the correct
strut like factory original are used then the drop will be minimal if any.
The Japan struts are made different so it also is minimal to none.
I have tried to get a quote for the largest company in Japan, but the
quantity is out of sight.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com


  

-----Original Message-----
From:gbsdelorean
Subject: [DML] Struts

Dear Owners
Was looking at a Delorean and the owner said that the doors droop in 
winter because the struts are gas filled and set for 72 degrees, temps
much below that will cause the gas to exert less pressure.




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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 18:48:08 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Noise

I have a complete set of sound material on the site made from industrial
type closed rubber cell. $129.95
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/accessories.html




-----Original Message-----
From:tuxr
Subject: [DML] Noise

I bought some sound deadening material at Circuit City, layered alot 
of it behind the back wall.  Seems to have worked to an extent for 
engine noise (of course not perfect, but helped), of course there are 
alot of other places where the noise comes in, particularly the 
floor.




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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 19:53:30 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Noise

Just a reminder there is a noise deading kit avail that is precut and fits  
in on top of existing insulation or replaces it if yours is damaged 
John Hervey currently is selling it.
 
I think there are 11 pieces that come with it all precut. You can assemble  
it with or without adhesive.
 
Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 18:53:55 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Grady's, HRC Angle drive (third post of this email)

I will do at least 20 for the customers and shop.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From:Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: [DML] Grady's, HRC Angle drive (third post of this email)

I'm ready to put my money where my mouth is and ask for a pre-order for HCR angle drives




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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 19:48:40 -0500
From: "Jason" <rowejj_at_dml_tds.net>
Subject: Re: What else used our alternators?

             I went to a place that rebuilds alternators and starters asking if 
they could give my motorola some more power. The guy there looked 
at it and asked why I don't just put on a Delco CS130. One small 
modification to the alternator housing where the long bolt that connects
the alternator to the engine and it's been perfect since. I got the alternator
plus wiring harness for it for $105.00.  Just an option.  

                                      Jason #5903




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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 22:42:40 -0400
From: Delorean Mid-Altantic Club <clubevents_at_dml_deloreanmidatlantic.com>
Subject: DMA - Fall Tour VI - Website and photos

Just a note to let you all know that a recap and photos of the Delorean
Mid-Atlantic Fall Foliage Tour VI is now available on our web site!
http://www.deloreanmidatlantic.com/updates/updates.htm
 
Enjoy!
 
- DMA Officers


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 02:47:04 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Seeking lower link

Does anyone happen to have a passenger side lower arm (lower link) 
#105177? No ball joint installed is perfered. Thanks guys! -----Dani 
B. #5003







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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 21:50:47 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: There is another...

Gary, I have several customers in Oklahoma and one is in Broken Arrow. If
you will call me and give me your information I want to do a tech session
soon if your interested.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com
Toll free 1-888-278-1629



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Gary Weaver II
Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2005 6:44 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] There is another...

Well, look at that. I was driving in late to the office this morning 
and saw another Delorean on the Broken Arrow Expressway...

As near as I could tell it was an 82 or 83 with the flat hood and 
sidestripes. Plate number was 962-ZCK

Not sure if they are on the DML, but if you are I'd love to hear from 
you.

Gary Weaver II
Grey, 5 speed, 81









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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 18:51:40 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Torsion bar adjustment

Hi again folks,

OK, there's a problem. One of the bolt holes on the passenger side is
stripped beyond repair. We relieved all pressure on the torsion bar
and now I have to figure out how to fix this. I'm guessing it's "tap &
die" time?

I've never used a tap & die set before. Looks like I get to purchase a
new toy and learn a new techinque. Any advice on how to proceed from
here would be greatly appreciated.

Driver's side bolts are just fine. Came off & went on without a
problem. The bracket is stuck to the torsion bar and won't come off; I
knew this before I started, I was just hoping the PB Blaster had done
it's job. We bolted it back down and I'll keep shooting it with PB
Blaster daily, then we'll try again every week or so until we get it.
For now I can catch that door manually.

-Ryan


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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 21:58:33 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: oil leak in valley-o-death (was first week of ownership blues (crankshaft seal))

Nate, 
All is not lost. Another customer had a hole in the block with water coming
out. No problem, drill the hole out to the size of a freeze plug, snap it in
and you will be fine. They did and it's ok. The only difference is higher
pressure with oil and if the aluminum welder can get to it ok. It only takes
about 11-15lb's of torque per bolt to hold the intake down.
It's the oil passage that needs to be looked over. 
John Hervey

   

-----Original Message-----
From:natesky1980
Subject: [DML] Re: oil leak in valley-o-death (was first week of ownership
blues (crankshaft seal))

I figured as much, I was hoping it could be anything other than a 
defect in the block.




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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 23:19:53 -0500
From: Qumefox <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>
Subject: Re: What else used our alternators?

Bernie wrote:


>>All,
>>
>>While we are talking about Alternators:
>>
>>For sale to the highest bidder!  An original Ducy alternator for the
>>DeLorean, just removed from the car, replaced with a SpecialTAuto
>>140 Amp unit, the Ducy works, but I can guarantee you don't want to
>>reinstall in on any D, that you drive at night in the summer, talk
>>about light dimming and loss of power.  If your looking to replace a
>>one on a Concours car let me know.
>>
>>Bernie
>>
>>
>>
>>

If its acting that badly it probably has one or more of the charging
loops dead.. Either from open coils or bad diodes.

--

Chris
VIN# 03209
http://badger.brazi.net/index.pl/delorean



--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.14/130 - Release Date: 10/12/2005






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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 23:18:44 -0400
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>
Subject: Re: Re: oil leak in valley-o-death (was first week of ownership blues (crankshaft se

Hmmmm, according the website I referenced in my first post he tried the 
epoxy technique and it wound up completely destroying his engine since a 
chunk of the hardened epoxy fell into the crank case and blocked one of the 
oil passages, and I'm sure you can imagine what happened from there.  I 
guess the problem is you will never really know if any of the epoxy or 
whatever you decide to put in there, stays in there.

Good Luck,
Todd Nelson
1561, Vermont
http://www.rit.edu/~tan5732



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: [DML] Re: oil leak in valley-o-death


>> Probably the "best" way to repair the block is to use an epoxy and
>> just fill the cavity.





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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 00:16:55 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: DML Owner's Map

Just for fun - follow this link to a site where I've started an Owners 
Map of the DML. This is also linked off the main page of 
www.dmcnews.com in case you lose this message. 

It does not ask for your email address so it doesn't appear to be 
a spam generator. I'm not sure what happens if you put in a non-US
location but I'm sure we'll find out. 

http://www.risingconcepts.com/frapper/dmldeloreanmailinglist

or 

http://tinyurl.com/debk4

Dave Swingle







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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 04:01:38 -0000
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: oil leak in valley-o-death (was first week of ownership blues (crankshaft se

Just wondering,Is it possible to do(after cleaning up the mess to 
spotless)aluminum welding,a "patch" across the WHOLE ribbed area,
(lengthwise or widthwise whichever works)in other words to in-case 
the mess,in a sorta welded "valley pan" to seal the whole thing in.
Just a thought
cbl


.--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_r...> wrote:

>>
>> Hmmmm, according the website I referenced in my first post he tried 

the epoxy technique and it wound up completely destroying his engine 
since a chunk of the hardened epoxy fell into the crank case and blocked one of the oil passages




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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 04:23:52 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: oil leak in valley-o-death (was first week of ownership blues (crankshaft seal))

Maybe you can find someone with a innershield aluminum mig welder? 
They could weld a thick bead of weld over the whole, and that fix 
would easily last for a while with proper penetration.

You could grind any areas under the manifold smoth after you weld.

Maybe something like that would work, using welding rod in such a 
tight area probably wouldn't be a good idea. Metal doesn't need to be 
spotledd to get a good weld, just get good penetration, and a good 
patch over the hole, you should be ok.


-Joe



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "natesky1980" <ncskalsk_at_dml_m...> wrote:

>>
>> I figured as much, I was hoping it could be anything other than a 
>> defect in the block.





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