Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2930
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:14 Oct 2005 23:20:04 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 11 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. DMC sliding windows.
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

2. catholic converter?
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Re: Re: What else used our alternators?
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>

4. Re: Torsion bar adjustment
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

5. Re: Re: What else used our alternators?
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

6. Re: DML Owner's Map
From: "Josh Porter" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Ring illumination questions
From: Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. Re: Re: oil leak in valley-o-death (was first week of ownership blues (crankshaft seal))
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

9. Re: Radiator install questions
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. Re: Re: What else used our alternators?
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. RE: Re: Torsion bar adjustment
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 03:11:10 -0000
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: DMC sliding windows.

This may sound simple,BUT why hasn't anybody tried to remanufacture the 
sliding window concept for the Delorean,as it was meant to be.I am sure 
there are a "few" people that would love to get rid of those toll booth 
windows,it sounds like a very simple concept,just roll down the toll 
booth window,(disconnect switches)remove the fixed glass,and install 
the hardware for a 
sliding window,install sliding window,making it so that it can be 
reinstalled to original again if so desired.Just something for someone 
to ponder on.
cbl







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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 21:53:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: catholic converter?

catholic converter??

Please, don't proselytize to us.   :) 


Also, the Bricklin does not have a catalytic converter
because the US government did not require it back
then.  they became standard in 1975.  DeLorean has it
because the law requires it.


--- cbl1739 <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net> wrote:

<SNIP>

>> the line,into the catholic Converter,and if enough
>> unburned fuel is 
>> allowed to get into the catholic converter,it in
>> itself,becomes it's 
>> own combustion chamber!!





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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 22:10:50 -0700
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>
Subject: Re: Re: What else used our alternators?




On Oct 13, 2005, at 3:35 PM, cbl1739 wrote:


>> which in turn gets passed down
>> the line,into the catholic Converter,and if enough unburned fuel is
>> allowed to get into the catholic converter,it in itself,becomes it's
>> own combustion chamber!!



This made me laugh!!!   Could be anyone converting to any religion  
for that matter. LOL
Phil Priestley

Vin 2105
IN FLUX

http://alessandros120.com/
(503)370-9951
1(866)225-7985





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 06:07:51 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: Torsion bar adjustment

Ryan - We have seen this sort of issue a number of times.  A couple 
of us in the PNDC carry a little kit to each tech session with a 
thread tap and some new bolts for this challenge.  If you don't want 
to buy an entire tap and die set, you can purchase individual taps 
from just about anywhere.  It takes an 8mm X 1.25mm tap.  Make sure 
the tap is square to the hole, and take it slowly.  Match the 
threads on the tap to any existing threads in the rivnut.  If the 
threads in the rivnut are totally gone, you will have to replace 
that.

For the driver's side that is stuck on the end of the torsion bar, 
the only way to get them off is to "walk" them off with two flat 
screw drivers.  It's tedious, but usually successful if you give 
yourself time to work it off.  If that absolutely isn't going to 
work out, email me off-list and we can talk about other options.

When reinstalling the bolts after all of this is sorted out, 
remember to use antiseize compound in the threads, and also on the 
splines of the bar.  Call me if you need me.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_g...> wrote:

>> OK, there's a problem. One of the bolt holes on the passenger side 

is stripped beyond repair. We relieved all pressure on the torsion 
bar and now I have to figure out how to fix this. I'm guessing 
it's "tap & die" time?

>> 
>> Driver's side bolts are just fine. Came off & went on without a
>> problem. The bracket is stuck to the torsion bar and won't come 

off; 







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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 07:55:20 +0200 (MEST)
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: Re: Re: What else used our alternators?

Now that's a very strange theory about religious converters
and Deloreans.

Have you ever thought about what could happen if people set the mixture too
rich ? I mean some guys here set their cars by ear or nose which 
may lead to a rich mixture and the cat will glow, too.
Or when a Spark plug fails - will the car burn, too ?

I had a glowing cat on my car in the past, the epoxy showed heat
problems, but the fibre glass was perfect. (probably one plug was bad or the
mixture was way off).
And nobody will drive around for too long with a really bad alternator.
First you see it on the volt gauge and then the car will run like crap, too.

For sure there are other reasons why the car could burn or the cat overheat,
but I really doubt that the alternator is a main reason. 
Biggest problem of the alternators is, that they don't produce enough
current at low rpms. Above 1200-1500 everything is fine. 

This is the first time I hear that theory - and I don't believe it !

Elvis & 6548


>> 
>> Re: What else used our alternators?
>> Matt,
>> 
>> If your orignal alternator is going or dead,TRY to stay away from a 
>> orignal DMC alternators,One of the MAIN reasons for Delorean engine 
>> fires(on the lower bottom part of the engines)was in  fact from the 
>> low amperage(output) of the factory alternators,as they were marginal AT BEST,when working correct,but when they started having 
>> problems/acting up watch out!


>> cbl





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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 05:00:18 -0000
From: "Josh Porter" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DML Owner's Map

Is it going to be permenent?

Josh
10989

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:

>>
>> Just for fun - follow this link to a site where I've started an 

Owners 

>> Map of the DML. This is also linked off the main page of 
>> www.dmcnews.com in case you lose this message. 
>> 
>> It does not ask for your email address so it doesn't appear to be 
>> a spam generator. I'm not sure what happens if you put in a non-US
>> location but I'm sure we'll find out. 
>> 
>> http://www.risingconcepts.com/frapper/dmldeloreanmailinglist
>> 
>> or 
>> 
>> http://tinyurl.com/debk4
>> 
>> Dave Swingle
>>









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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 00:23:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Ring illumination questions

Ok.  I went to test/fix some things.  I broke more
things  ;) .

Ok, so I found an LED light that fits the
headlight/hazzard switch and the cigarette lighter.  I
try to gently pull the lighter out, being extra
careful to the "ears" that hold the illum ring in. 
SNAP.  *sigh*

So than I get the LED light in its place in the
illumination ring.  Put key in - turn.  Nothing.  No
light in the illumination ring at all.  Now, this is
where my question kind of "spreads" into multiple
questions.

1.  Does this light only come on with the headlight
switch on?  Problem with me testing that...my switch
went bad tonight.  Until I get a new one in, I can't
know for sure if the ring only comes on with the
headlights/dashlights on, or if it's supposed to come
on with the key in position two in the ignition..

2.  If the illum ring should come on with only the
turning of the key, than why in the world is mine not
lighting up?  I checked fuse #8 - it is good, and
every single other thing that fuse #8 controls works
just fine.

Could it have something to do with the ear on the ring
being broken that it isn't making a good enough
connection to the cigarette lighter - since I assume
the cigarette lighter is grounded (2 wires going to
it, I assume one positive and one ground)..?

3.  The illum ring only has 1 wire - and that is the
little housing where the light goes.. why isn't it
like the auto trans shifter light that has a ground,
or the sidemarker lights - they are both similar in
design by both having ground wires that are soldered
to the bulb housing.  Why doesn't the illum ring wire
have one too?  Is it because the lighter itself has a
ground, and when the illum ring and lighter are both
held in place tightly by the "little clips" - the
illum ring utilizes the ground provided by the
lighter?

4.  If I'm completely offbase, and the wire fed to the
illum ring is getting no power, could I splice another
wire (say..the auto tranny shifter light) for power,
and utilize a ground wire, run it under the center
console, and attach it to the steering column
(grounded to the frame) to get light back in the ring?
 

Lots of questions there - I know, but this got awfully
frustrating at 1:15am.  If anyone could provide me
with a solution to get the ring lit up again, that
would be great.  As said earlier, it's all the little
things working that make the car great.

Jeremiah


		
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Yahoo! Music Unlimited 
Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.
http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited/




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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 07:11:52 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Re: oil leak in valley-o-death (was first week of ownership blues (crankshaft seal))

You can probably ignore the hole as long as you patch the area.  I'm
not completely familiar with the location of the hole in your block, 
but I think you can cover the hole with paper or plastic film and then
fill the space in the webbing with epoxy.  The paper will keep epoxy
out of the block until it hardens, and the plug in the webbing will 
keep the area around the hole from getting worse.  

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "natesky1980" <ncskalsk_at_dml_mtu.edu>: -------------- 



>> I figured as much, I was hoping it could be anything other than a 
>> defect in the block. 





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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 05:54:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Radiator install questions


   From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: Radiator install questions

< I'm putting in a new metal radiator and cooling fans and have a couple
< of questions:
< 
< I've got the car up on ramps, wishing I had a lift.  

If your working by yourself the ramps are better than a lift. This gives you an
option of putting some wood support from the floor or using one of your legs as a
third arm/hand when you can't do it with just two. Easier a couple of feet off
the ground vs. 6 feet or so  ;-) 

< Is it going to be
< easier to unbolt the radiator top support brackets at the radiator, the
< frame, or both before removing the old radiator and fans?

To drop it down & out you need to remove the bolts AT the radiator. You cannot
pull the radiator down with the brackets attached. "While your in there" you
might as well remove those brackets, scrape any rust off and shoot it with a
fresh coat of paint.

< The nuts at the top of the radiator are a real pain to get to, should I
< lower the radiator, fans and condenser as an assembly so that it is
< easier to get to the top mounting nuts/studs on the condenser?

Yes.
Again... if your by yourself make sure you have some wood handy to put under the
radiator in case your ramps are too high to allow it to rest on the ground by
itself due to the extremely short amount of play there is with one of the
condenser hoses.


>>>>snip<<


Shannon Y
16506


		
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Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.
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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 05:03:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: What else used our alternators?

Sounds like those "catholic converters" are nothing
but trouble.  I bet the problem started back in
Ireland.

;  )

Steve

--- cbl1739 <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net> wrote:


>> (ie:spark)some fuel may not get burned,which in turn
>> gets passed down 
>> the line,into the catholic Converter,and if enough
>> unburned fuel is 
>> allowed to get into the catholic converter,it in
>> itself,becomes it's 
>> own combustion chamber!! Which in turn burns this
>> unburned fuel,BUT 
>> unlike the engine(it has no radiators or cooling
>> system,except for 
>> air flow,and being WAY back of the car in the
>> Delorean,when 
>> overheated) has nowhere to expel this white hot
>> heat,that is 
>> generated,so the Catholic converter in itself,now
>> becomes a white hot 
>> 



	
		
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Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 
http://mail.yahoo.com




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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 08:42:57 -0400
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Torsion bar adjustment

Ryan,

If you've never re-tapped a thread before this area is not the place to
learn. If you want to keep the same size thread you will need an 8mm
"time-sert" thread repair kit at least. You must also be prepared for the
stripped weldnut that is used at this spot to possibly fall off if the welds
have been compromised. At that point you will need to cut open the roof and
weld in a new nut. To complete the repair you will want to weld the seam you
cut, for access to weld, back together grind and refinish the repaired area
to avoid water entry and rust. The repair can get involved very quickly so
you may wish to give this job to a professional. Just a heads up to
consider...I don't mean to sound discouraging but thought you should this
information before you start!

Rob Grady, 

P.J.Grady Inc.

-----Original Message-----
From:Ryan Wright
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Torsion bar adjustment

Hi again folks,

OK, there's a problem. One of the bolt holes on the passenger side is
stripped beyond repair. We relieved all pressure on the torsion bar
and now I have to figure out how to fix this. I'm guessing it's "tap &
die" time?




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