Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2931
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:15 Oct 2005 01:10:35 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: What else used our alternators?
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

2. Re: oil leak in valley-o-death (was first week of ownership blues (crankshaft seal))
From: "natesky1980" <ncskalsk_at_dml_mtu.edu>

3. Outer door seals
From: "lingolor" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>

4. Re: DML Owner's Map
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

5. Early Door Keys
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>

6. Re: DMC sliding windows.
From: "Josh Porter" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Re: catholic converter?
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

8. RE: Re: Grady's, HRC Angle drive
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

9. Parking brake fitting & adjustement
From: "Chris Williams" <chris_at_dml_cwilliams68.fsnet.co.uk>

10. Re: Torsion bar adjustment
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

11. Re: oil leak in valley-o-death (was first week of ownership blues (crankshaft se
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

12. Re: First year with a DMC..
From: "John Poland" <jpoland13_at_dml_charter.net>

13. Re: Re: oil leak in valley-o-death (was first week of ownership blues (crankshaft seal))
From: Jamie Hamlin <jamiepierce2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>

14. Re: Ring illumination questions
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

15. Re: oil leak in valley-o-death (was first week of ownership blues (crankshaft seal))
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>

16. Taillight housing fasteners
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>

17. All the stuff by the bonnet release
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>

18. Fuse #5 blowing
From: "Louie" <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>

19. Re: DMA - Fall Tour VI - Website and photos
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

20. DeLorean Owners in Long Island & New Jersey
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com

21. Re: Torsion bar adjustment
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>

22. Automatic Governor
From: "gbsdelorean" <gbsdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

23. Re: Fuse #5 blowing
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

24. Re: DMC sliding windows.
From: "S" <theborderisopen_at_dml_yahoo.com>

25. Re: Ring illumination questions
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 09:48:14 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: What else used our alternators?

I was reading in one of my old Delorean World magazines from the late 80's / 
early 90's
and they mention taking a Caddilac Eldorado alternator and adjusting the 
mounting bracket
by trimming it and drilling a new hole.
When a mechanic friend of mine saw my alternator he immediately knew it was 
a GM,
and Caddilac in particular.
All you need is a $100 alternator with some minor modifications.
- VB


>>From: "Jason" <rowejj_at_dml_tds.net>
>>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
>>Subject: Re: [DML] What else used our alternators?
>>Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 19:48:40 -0500
>>
>>              I went to a place that rebuilds alternators and starters 
>>asking if
>>they could give my motorola some more power. The guy there looked
>>at it and asked why I don't just put on a Delco CS130. One small
>>modification to the alternator housing where the long bolt that connects
>>the alternator to the engine and it's been perfect since. I got the 
>>alternator
>>plus wiring harness for it for $105.00.  Just an option.
>>
>>                                       Jason #5903
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>>
>>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>>Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>







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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 14:54:21 -0000
From: "natesky1980" <ncskalsk_at_dml_mtu.edu>
Subject: Re: oil leak in valley-o-death (was first week of ownership blues (crankshaft seal))

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>>
>> Maybe you can find someone with a innershield aluminum mig welder? 
>> They could weld a thick bead of weld over the whole, and that fix 
>> would easily last for a while with proper penetration.
>> 


Thanks for all the reply's.  I think cbl and Joe both are on the right 
track for a perm fix (welding a al plate across the honeycomb, or at 
least welding the hole's shut at the tops.  The problem I have is that 
I'm not up for removing the engine right now, especialy if it can be 
fixed via other methods (even if they are less palatable).  From the 
looks of what i've seen, the valves, etc. the engine could use a 
rebuild.  

I went with a variation of the cavity approach that Dave suggested, and 
was infamously detremental to one engine, but I belive if done 
correctly there shouldn't be any epoxy entering the hole.  I cut a 
peice of aluminum that fit the wall of the cavity that contains the 
hole.  On the back of this peice I put a good, but not excessive amount 
of JB Weld.  I pressed it against the side of the cavity and put 
springs in to continue to press it while it cured ~15hours.  I then 
filled the cavity with devcon(sp) epoxy (comes in a self mixing 
syringe).  By having the plate with jb weld on it (litteraly a bandaid 
for cars) I could then expoxy the hole, with some pressure and not fear 
seapage.

If it works, I'll drive the car in a short radius of my home and in a 
month or so I will take it apart and see how its holding up.  

The 'perfect' situation in my mind, would be to find another b28f out a 
wrecked Delorean or a volvo with the same basic engine.  A delorean 
engine would be best, as I would have all the parts I need to rebuild 
and prep the engine without having to the current engine apart. 

I considered a engine swap (nothing larger, just something more 
available).  Tempting, but I think no matter how you crunch the numbers 
swaping in or rebuilding the prv is gotta be cheaper, and arguably 
better for the long term value of the car.   

I'll let everyone know what the status of the fix is once I put it back 
together.  I'm started to drill out the intake bolt, I want to do it 
right so I'm going to finish it later.  Any problems with securing the 
intake with the three remaining bolts (anti-seized of course) and 
leaving the fourth out (leak air much)? 

Thanks

-Nate
vin 11501    







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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 15:10:25 -0000
From: "lingolor" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>
Subject: Outer door seals

I was wondering if anyone had some good picturs of their outer door 
seals installed?  I bought some new outer door seals but am reluctant 
to install them because I can't figure out where exactly they go.  My 
car didn't have outer door seals on it when I purchased the car. Also, 
the illustrations in the parts manual, service manual and web sites 
aren't very detailed.
I was planning on using permatex contact cement for the installation.  
Will the permatex be appropriate for this application?

Thanks yall,
Lingo #2034
Lakeland, TN









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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 15:28:00 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: DML Owner's Map

It is until:

--the people that own the site go out of business;
--the internet goes down;
--it fills up with stupid stuff and I kill it off.

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Josh Porter" <joshp1986_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>>
>> Is it going to be permenent?
>> 
>> Josh
>> 10989
>> 
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
>
>>> >
>>> > Just for fun - follow this link to a site where I've started an 
>
>> Owners 
>
>>> > Map of the DML. This is also linked off the main page of 
>>> > www.dmcnews.com in case you lose this message. 
>>> > 








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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 11:56:56 -0400
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>
Subject: Early Door Keys

List:

My Delorean has the early two-key locking system.  The door key has the little light and battery in it (which still works!).  I've been able to make copies of the ignition keys at my local hardware store, but am having trouble tracking down the door keys.  I looked Delorean up in the X-ref. book at the hardware store and amazingly enough it was listed and said to use an Ilco X169 for the door, which complies with the information on the DMCNews site.  Question is, where do I find these, my local hardware store didn't have them and is having trouble locating them, so any tips are welcome.

Thanks,
Todd Nelson
1561, Vermont
http://www.rit.edu/~tan5732


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 16:00:09 -0000
From: "Josh Porter" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DMC sliding windows.

There is a man, I forgot who he is but on his Back to the future car 
that's what he did, it has the sliding windows. Very impressive but I 
like the toll booth windows, especially when people don't know that 
that is the only part of the windows that rolls down and they discover 
it for the first time.

Josh

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_s...> wrote:

>>
>> This may sound simple,BUT why hasn't anybody tried to remanufacture 

the 

>> sliding window concept for the Delorean,as it was meant to be.I am 

sure 

>> there are a "few" people that would love to get rid of those toll 

booth 

>> windows,it sounds like a very simple concept,just roll down the toll 
>> booth window,(disconnect switches)remove the fixed glass,and install 
>> the hardware for a 
>> sliding window,install sliding window,making it so that it can be 
>> reinstalled to original again if so desired.Just something for 

someone 

>> to ponder on.
>> cbl
>>









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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 16:32:49 -0000
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: catholic converter?


Sorry if I spelled "Catalytic" wrong I was a little tired,remember 
the "B" was a safety vehicle,and the exhaust was made to crush or 
tear off,in the event of a major collision,Hey I am just trying to 
make people aware of a fault in the "D" and to take action to avoid 
the situation,That is what this ML is about isn't it? 
OK, on the 74,(cat not needed)but the major amounts 
were made in 75.(first year for cat)He TOTALLY redid(re-engineered) 
the exhaust in 76(made it as a single exhaust for crush/tear off 
factor) to include the "Cat" in the few 76 models

cbl



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>>
>> catholic converter??
>> 
>> Please, don't proselytize to us.   :) 
>> 
>> Also, the Bricklin does not have a catalytic converter
>> because the US government did not require it back
>> then.  they became standard in 1975. 





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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 13:06:07 -0400
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Grady's, HRC Angle drive

Mike,

Point well taken as the speedometer system is only as strong as its weakest
link. The angle drive gets blamed for many failures caused by problems
upstream in the rest of the system. Everyone with a VIN # before #005179
should consider upgrading to the shorter (26" verses 36" before this VIN #)
cable (Part #111412G) and the revised support bracket (#110528) used on
later cars. The shorter cable goes straight to the wheel instead of looping
over to the A.C. hose like the earlier cars. The bracket gives the cable a
straighter route to the angle drive as well as more support at the wheel.
This is a must if you want the angle drive to last longer. Decreasing the
load or drag even more would help also. Years ago someone offered a one
piece cable to eliminate the Lambda counter. Being a purist I didn't like
the idea at the time but if you follow factory directions on oxygen sensor
replacement then the counter is redundant and could be eliminated. If there
is interest I could have these cables made again. There is also a
weather-proofing kit that used to be available which kept water and debris
from entering the angle drive which helped prolong its life.  It consisted
of a molded boot, a machined axle nut, and misc. o-rings. Recently I came
across about a dozen of these kits (#113263) and have put them on the
website (No picture as of yet so just type in the #). I could make this
weatherproof kit again if there's enough interest. 

Rob Grady

P.J.Grady Inc.


-----Original Message-----
From:mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: RE: [DML] Re: Grady's, HRC Angle drive

We really need to look at the speedo drive mechanism from a
system perspective.  Focusing on the angle drive alone isn't 
enough.




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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 17:08:57 -0000
From: "Chris Williams" <chris_at_dml_cwilliams68.fsnet.co.uk>
Subject: Parking brake fitting & adjustement

Hi All,

I am about to fit a new parking brake arm & base plate, along with 
replacing the rear pads and parking brake pads. I seem to remember 
somewhere a procedure for setting the adjustment on the parking brake 
pads, but despite searching for this I can no longer find it. If any 
one can point me in the right direction and or explain the procedure 
it would be appreciated.
thanks to all

Chris
Vin#4584
www.delorean-hire.co.uk








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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 17:14:47 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Torsion bar adjustment

As Rob points out this is a very high stress area. You do not want to
compromise any of the parts by weaking them or improperly tapping
them. If you cannot get the anchor bracket off easily it can mean the
head of the torsion bar is split. If you do manage to force the
bracket off, once the bar is not restrained by the bracket the head
can expand to the point where the allen wrench slips inside and the
torsion bar unwinds uncontrolably. This is one area of the car where
if things go wrong they can quickly get way over the level of skill of
the "average" owner. You may want to reconsider and drive 4 hours to
someone more experienced. Retapping and using a thread insert is not
recomended in such a high stress area and replacing the nut is a big
process. It could be that only the threads on the bolt are "munched
up" from not relieving all the stress on it as you unscrewed it.
Reinserting such a "munched up" bolt then does damage the threads in
the nut. A careful examination of the threads will tell. When I do
door adjustments for the members at our annual Spring Social, if I
cannot get a bolt out easily or the bracket does not come off easily I
have to pass on it, I am not able to spend the time required to
properly fix it. Besides I don't like doing that around a lot of
people, there is always the danger things can get away even from an
experienced person!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, <rob_at_dml_p...> wrote:

>>
>> Ryan,
>> 
>> If you've never re-tapped a thread before this area is not the place to
>> learn. If you want to keep the same size thread you will need an 8mm
>> "time-sert" thread repair kit at least. You must also be prepared

for the

>> stripped weldnut that is used at this spot to possibly fall off if

the welds

>> have been compromised. At that point you will need to cut open the

roof and

>> weld in a new nut. To complete the repair you will want to weld the s








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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 13:48:13 EDT
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: oil leak in valley-o-death (was first week of ownership blues (crankshaft se

I have these "soldering rods" that make it easy to solder aluminum.  Has 
anyone ever tried to fix a VOD hole using this type of repair?  Maybe even to just 
solder a plate in place.  I'm not sure I would trust epoxy.  I'd always be 
worrying about it.

Dē & 6530
Dave Delman




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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 18:39:43 -0000
From: "John Poland" <jpoland13_at_dml_charter.net>
Subject: Re: First year with a DMC..

Thanks Marc.  Brakes are completely rebuilt now.  After only getting 1 
responce to my post I really feel alone out here.  I'll try these 
questions one more time:
1) Front and rear facias don't line up with body.  Anyone know how to 
fix this?
2) Large dent in drivers door.  Does anyone know somebody who can fix 
this in the Greenville, SC Charlotte or Atlanta area?
Also, anyone else in this area available for get togethers, tech talk, 
etc
John in Easley(Greenville), SC
5935







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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 12:11:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jamie Hamlin <jamiepierce2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: oil leak in valley-o-death (was first week of ownership blues (crankshaft seal))

I think it would be better to TIG weld a little square plate over the hole
just cap it off and forget it
 
Jamie Hamlin
2606
5677



Joe OBrien <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:

Maybe you can find someone with a innershield aluminum mig welder? 




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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 19:13:34 -0000
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Ring illumination questions

Jeremiah,

Don't have any more "D"s but checked on my other cars and they all 
come on with the light switch,which only makes sense,since you really 
do not need the light during daylight,it lights up as a safety 
feature,so that at night(while driving,or whenever the lights are on)
you can "see" 
the C.lighter socket without burning up the interior(ie:making ring 
burns)in the interior at night,and to keep your eyes focused on the 
road instead of fumbling at night trying to plug the C.lighter back 
into the socket,and making another "D" into a "parts cars".That was a 
item that was Not installed (lighter and ash tray)in a "B" as 
M.Brick.did not want people to smoke in that car and drop ashes on 
themselves,and take their eyes off the road,and doing as above,
(making it into a parts car)a safety thing,one of my pet peeves,is 
that,I really really hate patching cigarette ash burns,and the 
stains,and the smells etc.When I buy a used car.Too bad all car 
makers didn't follow the "B"s idea.
Hope that helps
Regards,
cbl


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:

>>
>> Ok.  I went to test/fix some things.  I broke more
>> things  ;) .





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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 19:28:02 -0000
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: oil leak in valley-o-death (was first week of ownership blues (crankshaft seal))

Sorry to hear about your oil leak problem.

  From what you describe and the amount of oil you have pouring out of 
the valley area, you may have a hole into the pressurized oil passage 
to the head.  I might be wrong, and someone with more knowledge of the 
PRV engine might have more insight...
Here's what I gather:
  1. You have a hole in the block from the exterior into an oil area.  
That might be only return oil pooling up and spilling out, but from the 
amount of oil and the rapid failure once the leak started, I would 
guess that you've struck an oil feed channel.
  2. Since you may need to replace the whole block anyway, you might as 
well try anything to reair the hole.  However, if the hole is indeed 
into the oil feed passage for the cylinder head you risk damaging the 
cam and valve train, also possibly damaging the head if oil flow is 
lost to that area.  Then you go from needing a block to needing a block 
and a head, and a cam, and followers, etc...
  3. Since you may have hit an oil feed channel, the oil leak you are 
attempting to fix is going to be under pressure.  Possibly 80psi or 
higher.  Anything that you fix it with will need to be solid and 
secure.  The first warning of a failure of the repair might be the oil 
pressure dropping!  Of course all the drivers behind you would have 
known about your leak for quite some time :P  James Bond anyone?
  I may be off base on all this since I don't know exactly where the 
leak is, someone more experienced may have better insight.

Matt

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, mike.griese_at_dml_w... wrote:

>>
>> You can probably ignore the hole as long as you patch the area.  I'm
>> not completely familiar with the location of the hole in your block, 
>> but I think you can cover the hole with paper or plastic film and then
>> fill the space in the webbing with epoxy.  The paper will keep epoxy
>> out of the block until it hardens, and the plug in the webbing will 
>> keep the area around the hole from getting worse.  
>> 
>> --
>> Mike
>> 
>> 









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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 19:35:21 -0000
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Taillight housing fasteners

Hello all,
  I pulled the circuit boards out last weekend to re-solder the circuit 
connections.  While I wish that I had the funds to buy some upgraded 
boards, that will have to wait.
  My question is - Is there a way to replace the rusted nuts that mount 
into the rear facia to hold the light assemlies?
Mine are quite rusted out, some no longer hold the screws in and some 
have broken screws in them from the P.O..
My plan is to get some stainless screws from a local supplier and re-
tap what I can of the nuts.  Hopefully I can replace those fasteners 
though.

Matt








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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 19:40:06 -0000
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: All the stuff by the bonnet release

Hello all.

I had my head stuck under the dash last night trying to figure out why 
my driver's front speaker had stopped working.  While under there I 
noticed that the P.O. had haphazardly zip-tied up the little panel with 
the wiper module and chime module on it.  The panel seems to have clips 
on it, but I can't see what It's supposed to hook to.
Does anyone know how this is supposed to be organized?  Can someone 
snap a pic of that area correctly assembled?
I'll try to sort things out in the meantime. :P
Matt







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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 21:45:41 -0000
From: "Louie" <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Fuse #5 blowing

Hi Group,

The other day my car started repetedly blowing out fuse #5. When this
happens the idles suddenly drops very low, and all my dash gagues
cease working. I looked in my workshop manual and see that fuse #5
powers the dash gagues and the service interval counter. Is there a
common failure that causes fuse #5 to blow? Any help would be great...
I miss driving the car this time of year when it's so nice outside!

Louie Golden
VIN 5252 Charlotte, NC







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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 20:46:19 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: DMA - Fall Tour VI - Website and photos

Looks like you guys (and gals) had great weather and a great time,
however I will have to disagree with one photo caption, on page 5.

I actually prefer to see more photos of the DeLorean with the doors
closed.  I think the doors open photo was taken at a better angle,
but all doors open photos are not better than doors closed photos.
However, I agree the D Rex looks better in photos with doors open.

I don't want to start a big debate (like the HCR angle drive post),
but I do enjoy seeing well posed, door closed photos of DeLoreans.

Again, a great looking event.  I hope I can attend in the future.
Any way you look at it, a photo looks better with a DeLorean in it.

Later,
Rich W.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Delorean Mid-Altantic Club 
<clubevents_at_dml_d...> wrote:

>>
>> Just a note to let you all know that a recap and photos of the 

Delorean

>> Mid-Atlantic Fall Foliage Tour VI is now available on our web site!
>> http://www.deloreanmidatlantic.com/updates/updates.htm
>>  
>> Enjoy!
>>  
>> - DMA Officers
>> 
>> 
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>









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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 19:03:19 EDT
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: DeLorean Owners in Long Island & New Jersey


I've been reading & watching the evening news about the terrible  flooding 
around Long Island and New Jersey. Anyone that needs a place to stay or  
relocate to, I have a few extra guest rooms available. Hope all is well with you  and 
that you were not personally effected by the storm.
 
Sincerely,
Mike Pack
Maryland
 
NOTE:   THIS DOCUMENT MAY CONTAIN CONFIDENTIAL AND NONPUBLIC INFORMATION.  IT 
IS  INTENDED ONLY FOR THE USE OF THE INDIVIDUAL(S) OR ENTITY(IES) NAMED 
ABOVE, AND  OTHERS SPECIFICALLY AUTHORIZED TO RECEIVE IT.  If you are not the 
intended  recipient of this document, you are notified that any review, 
dissemination,  distribution or copying of this communication is prohibited.  If you have 
 received this communication in error, please notify me immediately by return 
 email, delete the electronic message and destroy any printed copies.  Thank  
you for your cooperation.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 23:57:41 -0000
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Torsion bar adjustment

Ouch, I hope I never have to do that.  Cut open the roof,and weld?  
What is there to cut and weld?  Is there no other way to get to the 
captive nut?

Bernie



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, <rob_at_dml_p...> wrote:

>> 
>> If you've never re-tapped a thread before this area is not the 

place to learn........  You must also be prepared for the stripped weldnut that is used at this spot to possibly fall off if the welds
have been compromised. At that point you will need to cut open the 
roof and weld in a new nut. To complete the repair you will want to weld the seam you cut




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Message: 22
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2005 00:36:17 -0000
From: "gbsdelorean" <gbsdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Automatic Governor

Have been looking at a DeLorean with an automatic trans.  The fellow 
says the only thing wrong with it is the control unit that tells the 
gears to shift.  (No, not so bad that it will shift into first on the 
freeway...)  But come to a stop sign and he puts the shifter into 
first gear (remember it's an automatic), even then it starts in second 
gear.  
It does run, but how difficult - expensive would that be to fix?
He called it an automatic governor unit which controls the 3 speed 
trans. 

Thanks
GBS 
 







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Message: 23
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2005 00:42:34 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Fuse #5 blowing

I had this problem, and it turned out to be that I had reversed the 2
same-sized white bulkhead connectors underneath the ignition coil cover.  

You can tell the difference between them because one of them has a
wire where the other one doesn't.  

Matt
#1604


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Louie" <louie_at_dml_d...> wrote:

>>
>> Hi Group,
>> 
>> The other day my car started repetedly blowing out fuse #5. When this
>> happens the idles suddenly drops very low, and all my dash gagues
>> cease working. I looked in my workshop manual and see that fuse #5
>> powers the dash gagues and the service interval counter. Is there a
>> common failure that causes fuse #5 to blow? Any help would be great...
>> I miss driving the car this time of year when it's so nice outside!
>> 
>> Louie Golden
>> VIN 5252 Charlotte, NC
>>









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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 15:50:21 -0000
From: "S" <theborderisopen_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DMC sliding windows.

While the split sliding window wasn't as pleasant to look at, it does 
look like it would have been more useful and saved some more weight.  
I wonder if the original concept could be improved to hide the split 
down the middle even more.

Barring that, I've looked at the toll booth window and wondered if 
anyone else had been tempted to make those slide down windows.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_s...> wrote:

>>
>> This may sound simple,BUT why hasn't anybody tried to remanufacture 

the 

>> sliding window concept for the Delorean,as it was meant to be.I am 

sure 

>> there are a "few" people that would love to get rid of those toll 

booth 

>> windows,it sounds like a very simple concept,just roll down the toll 
>> booth window,(disconnect switches)remove the fixed glass,and install 
>> the hardware for a 
>> sliding window,install sliding window,making it so that it can be 
>> reinstalled to original again if so desired.Just something for 

someone 

>> to ponder on.
>> cbl
>>









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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 23:48:52 -0000
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Ring illumination questions

Jeremiah,

Lucky you, I have 5 reproduction headlight switches on order, I only 
need two, and someone else has spoken up for one of them.  So that 
leaves 2 available, if you want one contact me off list.

And stop trying to fix something that you don't know why it failed.  
You will only get more frustrated.  I know, figure out where the 
problem is and fix that, then find the next problem and fix that, it 
seems to be a never ending cycle, until you find the root cause, 
then you fix that problem and all the others are already fixed.  No 
more problems.

Put your old bulbs back in and see if they work.  If they do, your 
LED's are not compatible with the system.

Bernie

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:

>>
>> Ok.  I went to test/fix some things.  I broke more
>> things  ;) .
>> 
>> Ok, so I found an LED light that fits the
>> headlight/hazzard switch and the cigarette lighter.  I
>> try to gently pull the lighter out, being extra
>> careful to the "ears" that hold the illum ring in. 
>> SNAP.  *sigh*
>> 
>> So than I get the LED light in its place in the
>> illumination ring.  Put key in - turn.  Nothing.  No
>> light in the illumination ring at all.  Now, this is
>> where my question kind of "spreads" into multiple
>> questions.
>> 
>> 1.  Does this light only come on with the headlight
>> switch on?  Problem with me testing that...my switch
>> went bad tonight.  Until I get a new one in, I can't
>> know for sure if the ring only comes on with the
>> headlights/dashlights on, or if it's supposed to come
>> on with the key in position two in the ignition..
>> 

<Snip>







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