Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2933
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:16 Oct 2005 22:56:11 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 19 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. engine weight?
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

2. Re: tie rod end removal is complete
From: "Josh Porter" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Re: What else used our alternators?
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

4. Paper DeLorean
From: "coreysmoo" <coreysmoo_at_dml_hotmail.com>

5. Re: Struts
From: Lacy <heylacy_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Engine vacuum problems?
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

7. Re: Bare Metal/car show
From: "gbsdelorean" <gbsdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. Re: Re: DMC sliding windows.
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

9. DMCNews Parts for sale/wanted pages....
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

10. Float Charger on Sale
From: "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com>

11. Re: tie rod end removal
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

12. Re: tie rod end removal
From: "dmc_5180" <dmc_5180_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Re: Ring illumination questions
From: Greg Zapf <x86Daddy_at_dml_gmail.com>

14. Blending
From: Joey Morgan <jlm1701music_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. c02
From: "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com>

16. Bernie's Ticking
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>

17. Re: Early Door Keys
From: rodney rael <rodrael1_at_dml_gmail.com>

18. update: engine lives! (was oil leak in valley-o-death)
From: "natesky1980" <ncskalsk_at_dml_mtu.edu>

19. Re: Bernie's Ticking
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2005 18:31:44 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: engine weight?

Hey group,

This fall I am pulling my engine out for exhaust work and other maintenence.  

How heavy is the engine?  I need to know so I know how big of an engine stand 
I should buy.  

When removing the engine, do you usually pull the trans through the top at 
the same time or do you remove the trans from underneath, then pull the engine 
from the top?

If you do both at once, what is the weight of the engine plus trans so I know 
my max load for the cherry picker.

Thanks!
Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2005 18:03:09 -0000
From: "Josh Porter" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: tie rod end removal is complete

I got the tie rod ends off after Mike Clemens told me that they are 
left hand and right hand thread, I didn't know that so I was 
thightening them when I thought I was loosening them. Now I am putting 
the sway bar back on and clean the fuel system, again, and I'll be on 
the road within a few weeks. I'm shooting for the 29th.

Josh
10989

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Josh Porter" <joshp1986_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>>
>> I am trying to replace both tie rod ends but can not or don't know 

how 

>> to get them off. I thought I knew but they are being very honory. 

any 

>> ideas on how to get those suckers off? I sprayed PB blaster on them 
>> and let them soak for a few minutes and put a pair of vice grips on 
>> the old end and used a wrench on the nut but it didn't move. I tried 
>> the vise versa but the same result. My guess is that it is stuck on 
>> there due to it being 23 years old and I am a weakling, but that's 
>> just me.:)
>> 
>> Josh
>> 10989
>>









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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2005 12:51:16 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: What else used our alternators?

I wonder if it would be better to just take in an OEM DeLorean alternator to 
a rebuild shop and have them rebuild it? I wonder if they can beef it up?
I have my original sitting in the garage.....hmmmmm....
-VB



>>From: "John Poland" <jpoland13_at_dml_charter.net>
>>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: Re: [DML] What else used our alternators?
>>Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2005 11:51:12 -0000
>>
>>I just had a rebuilt GM 105 amp alternator put in my car about a month
>>ago.  No 





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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2005 19:27:56 -0000
From: "coreysmoo" <coreysmoo_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Paper DeLorean

I thought this was kinda neat...

http://papertoys.com/delorean.htm

Corey
2423







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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2005 15:46:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: Lacy <heylacy_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Struts

Hi, I bought a set of new struts earlier this year. The temp was 55 and one door drooped lower than the other, so I switched them and the opposite door drooped. The vender says I need to adjust rods but I  think I got a odd match set of struts. Do  you think I should ask for a repacement strut before I fool with door rod adjustments? Should I send them back for refund and buy temperature adjusted struts? I'm in Mich. and the temp went to 55 and they are drooping already. Looks really low tech when getting out somewhere. One more thing, I had a chance to switch my new struts with another D owner  and  his worked fine on my car. Why don't all newer cars' struts droop in cold weather?  Thanks for listening, any advice would be helpful, lacy


mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net wrote:Nope - simple gas laws state that a gas has lower pressure at lower 
temperature.

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "gbsdelorean" : -------------- 



>> Dear Owners 
>> Was looking at a Delorean and the owner said that the doors droop in 
>> winter because the struts are gas filled and set for 72 degrees, temps 
>> much below that will cause 





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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2005 22:47:00 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Engine vacuum problems?

I don't understand this... maybe someone can help me out here. Before
I begin, the ported switch lines are routed correctly, timing is on 13
and both vac/mechanical advances in/on the distributor are verified to
work. I have my vacuum supply line to ported switch disconnected at
the source (left/drivers side rear intake), my car (cold) starts up
great, and you can hit the road immediately with no engine/running
problems or smoke. I plug the vacuum line in and upon cold start, the
engine sputters and blows bluish/whitish smoke for a minute or 2.
Hitting the road immediately results in misfiring under even light
acceleration until warm, and once warm the engine still misfires under
load or going straight down the road with 3/4 accelerator travel.
Unplug this line and these problems do not exist; the engine runs
flawlessly -this is how I've been running for the past few weeks.
Unplugging the WUR and only running vac advance still makes the engine
misfire near 4,000 RPMs. Obviously the advance and WUR are what to
suspect- but my vac advance is fine and WUR is brand new. I'm not sure
what to make of this, but I would like to get it back to how it should
be with no problems. Thanks for any ideas/suggestions -----Dani B. #5003







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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2005 00:45:22 -0000
From: "gbsdelorean" <gbsdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Bare Metal/car show

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "byrondelorean" <celiambyron_at_dml_m...> 
wrote:

>>
>> If any of you ever tried to buy a classic, 
>> paint may prevent you from the truth. On our cars the proof is 
>> always in front of you.
>> Drive safe.
>> 


If one ever decided to purchase a classic, and you've got permission 
from the owner, take a felt wrapped magnet, that will reveal the bondo 
parts. 









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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2005 19:49:18 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Re: DMC sliding windows.

Bob Brandys did it, see here.....
http://www.delorean-midwest.org/97window.html


Mark V



On Oct 14, 2005, at 11:00 AM, Josh Porter wrote:


>> There is a man, I forgot who he is but on his Back to the future car
>> that's what he did, it has the sliding windows. Very impressive but I
>> like the toll booth windows, especially when people don't know that
>> that is the only part of the windows that rolls down and they discover
>> it for the first time.
>>
>> Josh
>>
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_s...> wrote:
>
>>>>
>>>> This may sound simple,BUT why hasn't anybody tried to remanufacture
>
>> the
>
>>>> sliding window concept for the Delorean,as it was meant to be.I am
>
>> sure





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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2005 01:55:54 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: DMCNews Parts for sale/wanted pages....

Are now back up and running after an hour or two of figuring out the 
mysteries of MS Front Page. I've recreated the recent ads and dumped 
the stale ones. 

Dave Swingle

http://www.dmcnews.com/buynsell.html







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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2005 03:04:46 -0000
From: "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Float Charger on Sale

It's that time of year again when our cars often stay dormant until 
next Spring.  Harbor Freight Tools has an Automatic Battery Float 
Charger on sale for $8.99.  I have used it on my motorcycle for several 
years and it works well. It goes by the number Lot No 42292.

They also have a Digital Multimeter for $3.99 LotNo.30756.

(...and NO I don't have any financial connection with them, I just know 
they do have some bargains...)

Dē & 6530
Dave Delman







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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2005 04:21:17 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: tie rod end removal

Go back a little, this subject was recently gone over. The tie rod end
is a taper fit into the steering knuckle. Even after removing the nut
it is a very tight fit and needs a lot of "encouragement" to come
apart. You either whack it out or use a tie rod remover (a miniature
press) or a "pickle fork". PB blaster won't help you much here, it is
not rusted together. Don't use a vise grip on it, you will not get it
to turn. The nut should come off fairly easily if you remove the
cotter pin.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Josh Porter" <joshp1986_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>>
>> I am trying to replace both tie rod ends but can not or don't know how 
>> to get them off. I thought I knew but they are being very honory. any 
>> ideas on how to get those suckers off? I sprayed PB blaster on them 
>> and let them soak for a few minutes and put a pair of vice grips on 
>> the old end and used a wrench on the nut but it didn't move. I tried 
>> the vise versa but the same result. My guess is that it is stuck on 
>> there due to it being 23 years old and I am a weakling, but that's 
>> just me.:)
>> 
>> Josh
>> 10989
>>









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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2005 04:30:17 -0000
From: "dmc_5180" <dmc_5180_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: tie rod end removal

Josh

First, I assume you are talking about the outer Tie rod ends.  Have you removed them from 
the Steering arms yet?  If not, the subject of there removal was covered in several postings 
about a week ago. Go back and check them out. As far as loosening the jam nut goes, I've 
seen some pretty rusty looking tie rod components where you would have thought that the 
nut was surely frozen to the threaded shaft, but cracked loose easily. Once loose the tie 
rod end usually unscrews with your fingers. Remember they are right hand thread. If you 
happen to have the correct size line wrench it will have a stronger and tighter fit around 
the nut so you can put a lot of force on it without damaging the nut. Surely your not a real 
weakling:-)

Dennis

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Josh Porter" <joshp1986_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>>
>> I am trying to replace both tie rod ends but can not or don't know how 
>> to get them off. I thought I knew but they are being very honory. any 
>> ideas on how to get those suckers off? I sprayed PB blaster on them 
>> and let them soak for a few minutes and put a pair of vice grips on 
>> the old end and used a wrench on the nut but it didn't move. I tried 
>> the vise versa but the same result. My guess is that it is stuck on 
>> there due to it being 23 years old and I am a weakling, but that's 
>> just me.:)
>> 
>> Josh
>> 10989
>>









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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2005 00:03:11 -0500
From: Greg Zapf <x86Daddy_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Ring illumination questions

LEDs are usually directional...  one side is +.  I recommend reversing
the polarity to see if that helps.

--Greg
#2894




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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2005 01:45:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joey Morgan <jlm1701music_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Blending

I was wondering...on average, how long does it take to
blend the entire D by hand, no power tool? I am
wanting to do this soon and just want to prepare
myself and get a time frame. A day? A week? To do it
right (without having to send it off to Houston or
Grady or Special T, I know you guys will make it look
like it just came off the show room floor but this is
something I want to do) and have it look nice....about
how long? 
To anyone that has done this, please let me know how
long it took you to do it and if it was a good or bad
experience for you.
Thanks.

Joey
#6297


	
		
__________________________________ 
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 
http://mail.yahoo.com




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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2005 13:57:06 -0000
From: "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: c02

Hi all I just recently set my c0 adj with a dwell meter using the following 
instructions.. I the car runs and idles pretty damn good .. but  a little rough at 
idle. I have a question it seems the only way I can get the car to idle completly 
smoothly is to adj it a little bit richer so the frequency valve is not buzzing 
constantly but kind of in intermittent spurts..... any one have any input on this.. 
I have the stainless exhaust system from the UK with no cat anymore.. dont 
know if that would make a difference in the setting... any input is 
appreciated..The plugs dont get any build up on them at all at either setting 
but I dont know what else this would affect..thanks..Dave..vin.. 15275

http://mysite.verizon.net/vze7u0gn/id6.html







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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2005 15:28:03 -0000
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Bernie's Ticking

DML,
Here is a video I took of Bernie's Black Beauty DeLorean yesterday with 
the ticking noise.  I told him I'd record it for everyone to look and 
and maybe find out what is wrong.  Any thoughts?

http://media.putfile.com/100_014843

Matt
VIN: 2953







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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2005 10:22:34 -0600
From: rodney rael <rodrael1_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Early Door Keys

Todd:
 I agree with LLoyd, I had a similar problem, I finally went to a locksmith
shop and they matched the door key with a volvo blank the key number is an
"x81" the key blank name is taylor. It works just fine.
  Rodney
#3300

 On 10/14/05, Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu> wrote:

>>
>> List:
>>
>> My Delorean has the early two-key locking system. The door key has the
>> little light and battery in it (which still works!). I've been able to make
>> copies of the ignition keys at my local hardware store, but am having
>> trouble tracking down the door keys. I looked Delorean up in the X-ref. book
>> at the hardware store and amazingly enough it was listed and said to use an
>> Ilco X169 for the door, which complies with the information on the DMCNews
>> site. Question is, where do I find these, my local hardware store didn't
>> have them 





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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2005 00:35:58 -0000
From: "natesky1980" <ncskalsk_at_dml_mtu.edu>
Subject: update: engine lives! (was oil leak in valley-o-death)


Before I (temporarly) reinstalled the intake and returned the engine to 
proper configuration I placed a long peizo electric flex strip over the 
two front channels.  One end is secured by bolt, the other end is 
expoxied into the cavity.  I ran the wires up the rear 'firewall'.  
This way I should be able to check if the the flex strip changes its 
orientation significantly while I run it in the garage (indicating that 
the epoxy is being pushed out).  

I realize their would be air leaks, thats okay, I'm not going on a trip 
or anything, just running it in the garage to see if I have plugged the 
only hole, and to see how it holds.  I put some liquid gasket around 
the intake ports near the broken bolt.  Then I gave it a oil+filter 
change and let it rip.  I'm glad to report, no oil leaks.   The engine 
sounds great. The flex strip hasn't changed resistance since 
installation, I'm going to wire it to a solid state LED bar display in 
the engine compartment that will indicate visualy if resistance has 
changed.  Before I call the repair a tentative sucess I'm going to 
replace the oil pressure sender and verify a stable reading there.

I've been working on the bolt carefully tonight.  I broke a couple of 
my nicer small bits, so I'm thinking of having someone qualified work 
on it instead:).  Anyway, thanks again for everyone's support and 
technical insight.  I very much appreciate it!  I'll post a picture 
that will indicate where the hole was found, and the repair.  


-Nate
vin11501

 


>>
>> Do not attempt to reinstall the intake manifold without repairing the
>> broken bolt. You will not be able to install without having a large
>> air leak and the motor will run badly. If the corrodded hole went into
>> a pressurized oil passage you may not have enough oil pressure if you
>> just epoxy it, pressurized oil will just leak out.









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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2005 14:31:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Bernie's Ticking

See how much movement there is in the idler bearings on the AC.
 
Chris
6301

conundrum1984 <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:
DML,
Here is a video I took of Bernie's Black Beauty DeLorean yesterday with 
the ticking noise. I told him I'd record it for everyone to look and 
and maybe find out what is wrong. Any thoughts?

http://media.putfile.com/100_014843

Matt
VIN: 2953




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