Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2934
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:17 Oct 2005 18:22:57 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: c02
From: "David Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

2. Hard start problem UPDATE
From: Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>

3. Window channel seal replacement
From: "Daniel" <dmcburn75_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. RE: Bernie's Ticking
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>

5. Re: Bernie's Ticking
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>

6. Car show Oct 22, Mobile Alabama
From: "soenksen_scott" <soenksen_scott_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Re: Struts
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

8. Re: Float Charger on Sale
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

9. Re: update: engine lives! (was oil leak in valley-o-death)
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. Re: Bernie's Ticking
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

11. 2 Questions Trunk & Pipes
From: "gbsdelorean" <gbsdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Re: engine weight?
From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>

13. Cleaning the wheels
From: ComposerZelgadis_at_dml_aol.com

14. Re: Engine vacuum problems?
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>

15. Re: engine weight?
From: "Christophe Vieira" <chris_delorean_at_dml_hotmail.com>

16. Re: Engine vacuum problems?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

17. JZDs Original Time Machine
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. Re: Re: engine weight?
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

19. Re: Cleaning the wheels
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. Re: Window channel seal replacement
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>

21. Re: Speedo cable bracket
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. Re: Re: Cleaning the wheels
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

23. Re: Re: Cleaning the wheels
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

24. Water in gas?!?
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>

25. FW: Northstar
From: "Chris Hawes" <chris_at_dml_chawes.demon.co.uk>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2005 18:41:29 -0400
From: "David Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Re: c02

Since it was my web site you used I'll answer your question. I found that
the dwell meter method is a pretty good estimate of the proper setting. If
you make it richer a hair and it runs better then your in good shape. There
is a fine line of adjustment here and you may have to make more adjustments
as you drive the car but each should be less than an tenth of a turn and no
more. Always make sure the car is completely warmed up and the cooling fans
have cycled at least once before making any changes. I found a lean setting
gives me more power at takeoff but a richer setting makes the engine idle
smoother and start better.

Dave Sontos

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 16, 2005 9:57 AM
Subject: [DML] c02



>> Hi all I just recently set my c0 adj with a dwell meter using the

following

>> instructions.. I the car runs and idles pretty damn good .. but  a little

rough at

>> idle. I have a question it seems the only way I can get the car to idle

completly

>> smoothly is to adj it a little bit richer so the frequency valve is not

buzzing

>> constantly but kind of in intermittent spurts..... any one have any input

on this..

>> I have the stainless exhaust system from the UK with no cat anymore.. dont
>> know if that would make a difference in the setting... any input is
>> appreciated..The plugs dont get any build up on them at all at either

setting

>> but I dont know what else this would affect..thanks..Dave..vin.. 15275







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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2005 16:12:14 -0700
From: Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Hard start problem UPDATE

Below is my original message regarding a hart starting issue I had. To 
bring you up to date, I've resolved the cold starting aspect. After 
cleaning the warm up regulator electrical connections, my car cold starts 
easier now.

Last week I received the fuel pressure gauge and hooked it right up. All 
the pressures checked out with the pump running (as expected since the car 
would otherwise run fine). However when checking the rest pressure, it 
would start at about 3 bar, hold for about three minutes and then slowly 
drop to 0 over two minutes. Since then I've replaced the o-rings in the PPR 
and confirmed the injectors aren't leaking, but still have the rest 
pressure drop too soon. So I have just the check value and accumulator left.

Am I correct in assuming that because the pressure briefly holds then 
slowly drops, it's the accumulator? I would think that if the check valve 
was somehow stuck, I would loose pressure a lot faster then 5 minutes. If 
it turns out to be the accumulator, then it failed after about 3 years. 
Since the PO replaced it, I don't know if it was NOS or new, so I can't 
contribute to that debate.

Thanks for the tips so far. I feel like I'm on the home stretch of fixing 
this problem.
Chris



>>Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 13:46:45 -0700
>>Subject: [DML] Hard start problem
>>
>>I'm having a bit of a problem starting my car. When the engine is warm, it
>>has the typical hot start problem. After about 20-30 seconds of cranking,
>>it finally turns over. It may stumble for another few seconds before it
>>gets up to idle speed. But afterwards, the engine runs perfectly. As for
>>the fuel system, the accumulator was replaced about 3 years ago. The fuel
>>pump/check valve, fuel filter, and O rings in the primary pressure
>>regulator were replaced within the last year.
>>
>>Now here is where it really gets interesting. If the car has been sitting
>>for more then a day or two, it has problems cold starting. It will usually
>>fire right up for a second then die. This tells me the ignition system is
>>working and so is the cold start valve (directly tested as well). Once the
>>engine starts, it's just like the hot start were it stumbles for a few
>>seconds before reaching idle.
>>
>>I'm not too sure what the problem is here. The technical manual says for
>>hot/cold start problems only, it's the air sensor rest position. However it
>>sits flush with the funnel, so I don't think that's the issue. Is it
>>possible to have a bad warm up regulator and dirty injectors without
>>causing problems once the engine is running? Or do I need to just cave in
>>and get a fuel pressure gauge to test the different pressures?
>>
>>Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks,
>>Chris
>>VIN 4099






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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 00:01:13 -0000
From: "Daniel" <dmcburn75_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Window channel seal replacement

Dear group.

This weekend I "attempted" to replace the window channel seal on the
toll booth window. My 81 DeLorean was originally sealed with RTV
giving it a somewhat sloppy appearance. I would like the use the
rubber gasket that was implemented around vin 6300.

I followed directions posted in the technical section by Mr Grimsrud,
but was unable to get it seated. Does anyone have any tips or
shortcuts on how to accomplish this? There must have been an easier
way to do this in the factory. 

-Dan








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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 01:05:07 +0000
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: RE: Bernie's Ticking

I think it's the rockers making such a racket and possibly coupled with an 
exhaust gasket leak.  Remove the rocker cover and check/adjust valve 
clearance.  Check for a leak in the exhaust gasket.

However, this one sounds particularly bad and I believe it is possible that 
the cams have been rubbed down.  They sound very worn.  If that's the case I 
do not believe a valve adjustment will fix this one...only new cams.

Jeff in NC



>>From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>
>>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: [DML] Bernie's Ticking
>>Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2005 15:28:03 -0000
>>
>>DML,
>>Here is a video I took of Bernie's Black Beauty DeLorean yesterday with
>>the ticking noise.  I told him I'd record it for everyone to look and
>>and maybe find out what is wrong.  Any thoughts?
>>
>>http://media.putfile.com/100_014843
>>
>>Matt
>>VIN: 2953





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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 00:06:34 -0000
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Bernie's Ticking

The noise is coming from Cylinder #4, not from the front of the 
engine.

Bernie

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:

>>
>> See how much movement there is in the idler bearings on the AC.
>>  
>> Chris
>> 6301
>> 
>> conundrum1984 <jeepno1_397_at_dml_h...> wrote:
>> DML,
>> Here is a video I took of Bernie's Black Beauty DeLorean yesterday 

with 

>> the ticking noise. I told him I'd record it for everyone to look 

and 

>> and maybe find out what is wrong. Any thoughts?
>> 
>> http://media.putfile.com/100_014843
>> 
>> Matt
>> VIN: 2953
>>









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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 01:02:55 -0000
From: "soenksen_scott" <soenksen_scott_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Car show Oct 22, Mobile Alabama

Just to let those along the gulf coast know that there will be a car 
show in Mobile, Alabama on October 22.
It will be at the Springdale Mall Hooters.
If some of you remember, in 1998, we had 11 Deloreans at the show. Even 
Steve from DMC Houston was able to come to that one!
Let's make it 12 this time!

"Pensacola Scott"







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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2005 19:10:27 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Struts

On 10/15/05, Lacy <heylacy_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:

>> Hi, I bought a set of new struts earlier this year. The temp was 55 and one


Hi Lacy,

I wouldn't touch your torsion bars. If you swapped the passenger &
driver struts and the problem switched doors, then the strut is your
problem. I would ask for a replacement of the bad strut, or refund
both and buy a new pair elsewhere.

--
- Ryan
http://www.memfrag.com - Memory Fragment Search & Storage


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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2005 21:43:24 EDT
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Float Charger on Sale

 
 
 
Sorry,
 
I just called Harbor Freight Tools at 1-800-423-2567 and they told me that  
the items in the flyer are for in store purchase only.  The nearest store  to 
me is 60 miles but perhaps one is closer to you.
 
Dē & 6530





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 03:50:15 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: update: engine lives! (was oil leak in valley-o-death)

Epoxy may be an easy fix, but I hope you don't plan on depending on it 
to last at all. A list member here also had the same epoxy bandage done 
to his car, and the bandaid started to crumble and block oil passages 
in his engine.

He only found out when the engine siezed on him.

Don't use the epoxy.


-Joe O'Brien









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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 02:55:56 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Bernie's Ticking

When was the last valve adjustment? I know people who have done a 
valve adjustment the wrong way causing a tick. They would have the 
engine at #1 TDC, do the adjustment and upon turning the crankshaft 
360 degrees to get to #1 again-they stopped at the #6 mark thinking it 
was the #1. This will cause a tick on the driver's side, I think it 
was #5 cylinder, but I can't remember exactly. That car runs pretty 
damn smooth though! -----Dani B. #5003







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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 04:27:54 -0000
From: "gbsdelorean" <gbsdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: 2 Questions Trunk & Pipes

Is it hard to locate an '81 hood with a gas flap?  I believe there 
were very few produced.  It seems as though this would make it easier 
to fill, instead of raising the whole trunk(?).


The sound file DMCh_perf_Exhaust.WAV - What was done to create such a 
rich sounding DeLorean?










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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2005 23:48:19 -0500
From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>
Subject: Re: engine weight?

I seperated the tranny before pulling the engine.  Thought it would be to 
bulky a job otherwise.  The engine minus the heads isn't overly heavy.  I 
used a stand rated for 750lbs.  perfect,



----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Soma576_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2005 5:31 PM
Subject: [DML] engine weight?



>> Hey group,
>>
>> This fall I am pulling my engine out for exhaust work and other 
>> maintenence.
>>
>> How heavy is the engine?  I need to know so I know how big of an engine 
>> stand
>> I should buy.
>>
>> When removing the engine, do you usually pull the trans through the top at
>> the same time or do you remove the trans from underneath, then pull the 
>> engine
>> from the top?
>>
>> If you do both at once, what is the weight of the engine plus trans so I 
>> know
>> my max load for the cherry picker.
>>
>> Thanks!
>> Andy





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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 04:28:30 EDT
From: ComposerZelgadis_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Cleaning the wheels

Greetings, list.  I have the older dark-gray wheels.  They look  good when 
kept perfectly clean, but look like total Hell when even slightly  dirty.  
Anyone else have this problem?
 
So far, I've been using soap & water with a toothbrush to get in  between 
each spoke, but that's a real pain in the rear, especially since I'm one  of 
those guys where everything has to be clean all the time.  I have some  spray-on, 
hose-off wheel cleaner, but it just isn't up to snuff (think it's made  by 
Black Magic... and is just called "Wheel Cleaner").  I was wondering if  someone 
knew of an easier way?  I was thinking about pressure washing  them, but that 
introduces a number of risks, including striking the tire, not to  mention 
possibly damaging the finish on the wheels?
 
Could really use a miracle product / great idea right about now!   Thanks in 
advance!
 
Regards,
William F.
#1366


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 07:15:16 -0500
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Engine vacuum problems?

I'm not an expert but it doesn't look like anyone responded so I'll take a
swing.
First, I would double (or triple or quadruple if that is the case) the
vacuum tube routing and verify they are all good.
Second... connect it back up and play with the fuel/air mixture. I'm
guessing leaning it out, it might be too rich/not enough air with the WUR
functioning.
If you disconnect the the vac line, are you plugging it or is it sucking
extra air to run good?
-Kevin


On 10/15/05, stainlessilusion <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net> wrote:

>>
>> I don't understand this... maybe someone can help me out here. Before
>> I begin, the ported switch lines are routed correctly, timing is on 13
>> and both vac/mechanical advances in/on the distributor are verified to
>> work. I have my vacuum supply line to ported switch disconnected at
>> the source (left/drivers side rear intake), my car (cold) starts up
>> great, and you can hit the road immediately with no engine/running
>> problems or smoke. I plug the vacuum line in and upon cold start, the
>> engine sputters and blows bluish/whitish smoke for a minute or 2.
>> Hitting the road immediately results in misfiring under even light
>> acceleration until warm, and once warm the engine still misfires under
>> load or going straight down the road with 3/4 accelerator travel.
>> Unplug this line and these problems do not exist; the engine runs
>> flawlessly -this is how I've been running for the past few weeks.
>> Unplugging the WUR and only running vac advance still makes the engine
>> misfire near 4,000 RPMs. Obviously the advance and WUR are what to
>> suspect- but my vac advance is fine and WUR is brand new. I'm not sure
>> what to make of this, but I would like to get it back to how it should
>> be with no problems. Thanks for any ideas/suggestions -----Dani B. #5003





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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 08:31:04 -0000
From: "Christophe Vieira" <chris_delorean_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: engine weight?

Hello Andy,A person is enough to carry the transmission and two people to carry the engine (test done yesterday (engine without intake and accessories) to get an extra engine).Usually, I take out engine only but you can do both at once, you just need to have the possibility (with a balancer/leveller) to incline the engine-transmission assembly to get all out of the car. Removing the transmission after the engine is out is very easy.Cranes can take about 1 Ton or more so it is not a problem to handle the engine only or both engine and transmission.As far as you do not need to separate engine bloc from crankcase (Like me on my own engine) you can put the engine on a stand.I bought an engine stand that can handle a 940kg because when a bolt is quite resistant, the engine stand has to handle the engine weight and my weight, jumping on the wrench. ;-)See ebay item #4582952767 for example.Hope this help.Best regards,Chris.#04271 / DL1981.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 13:50:52 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Engine vacuum problems?

Check a couple of more things. Make sure the air sensor plate is
centered and not touching the sides of the venturi. Check the rest
position that it is not too high or too low. If the air filter is old
or dirty replace it. Make sure the Frequency valve is buzzing and does
not cut in and out. It should buzz steadily. Check the engine vacuum.
It should be up around 18". If you have leaks you will never get the
mixture right. Be certain the air tube for the idle motor is properly
inserted and the "O" ring is sealing properly in the mixture unit. My
guess is your are set up too rich to compensate for a dead Lanbda
and/or vacuum leaks.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:

>>
>> I don't understand this... maybe someone can help me out here. Before
>> I begin, the ported switch lines are routed correctly, timing is on 13
>> and both vac/mechanical advances in/on the distributor are verified to
>> work. I have my vacuum supply line to ported switch disconnected at
>> the source (left/drivers side rear intake), my car (cold) starts up
>> great, and you can hit the road immediately with no engine/running
>> problems or smoke. I plug the vacuum line in and upon cold start, the
>> engine sputters and blows bluish/whitish smoke for a minute or 2.
>> Hitting the road immediately results in misfiring under even light
>> acceleration until warm, and once warm the engine still misfires under
>> load or going straight down the road with 3/4 accelerator travel.
>> Unplug this line and these problems do not exist; the engine runs
>> flawlessly -this is how I've been running for the past few weeks.
>> Unplugging the WUR and only running vac advance still makes the engine
>>








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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 06:39:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: JZDs Original Time Machine

I ran across a few articles about John DeLorean in "The Legend" - the GTO
Association of America's magazine and thought I'd share.
http://www.ohiodeloreans.com/ss/JZD-LegendArticles.jpg

Shannon Y
16506


		
__________________________________ 
Yahoo! Music Unlimited 
Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.
http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited/




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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 09:51:16 -0400
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: engine weight?

Thanks for the help guys.  Looks like I am going to buy a 750 lb stand 
and just rent the cherry picker.  What size bolts do I need to hold the 
engine to the stand?

Andy

-----Original Message-----
From: Christophe Vieira <chris_delorean_at_dml_hotmail.com>
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 08:31:04 -0000
Subject: [DML] Re: engine weight?

   Hello Andy,A person is enough to carry the transmission and two 
people to carry
the engine (test done yesterday (engine without intake and accessories) 
to get
an extra engine).Usually, I take out engine only but you can do both at 
once,
you just need to have the possibility (with a balancer/leveller) to 
incline the
engine-transmission assembly to get all out of the car. Removing the
transmission after the engine is out is very easy.Cranes can take about 
1 Ton or
more so it is not a problem to handle the engine only or both engine 
and
transmission.As far as you do not need to separate engine bloc from 
crankcase
(Like me on my own engine) you can put the engine on a stand.I bought 
an engine
stand that can handle a 940kg because when a bolt is quite resistant, 
the engine
stand has to handle the engine weight and my weight, jumping on the 
wrench.
;-)See ebay item #4582952767 for example.Hope this help.Best
regards,Chris.#04271 / DL1981.





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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 08:37:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Cleaning the wheels

William,
Once you get them clean might I suggest installing a set of Don Steger's dust
shields.
http://www.deloreanmotorcenter.com/_w000010_wheel_shield.html
Does a GREAT job of keeping the rims clean from brake dust. Now I rarely have to
spend any extra time scrub'n the rims.

Shannon Y
16506
-------------------

From: ComposerZelgadis_at_dml_...
Date: Mon Oct 17, 2005  4:28 am
Subject: Cleaning the wheels 	
Greetings, list. I have the older dark-gray wheels. They look good when
kept perfectly clean, but look like total Hell when even slightly dirty.
Anyone else have this problem?

So far, I've been using soap & water with a toothbrush to get in between
each spoke, but that's a real pain in the rear, especially since I'm one of
those guys where everything has to be clean all the time. I have some
spray-on,
hose-off wheel cleaner, but it just isn't up to snuff (think it's made by
Black Magic... and is just called "Wheel Cleaner"). I was wondering if someone

knew of an easier way? I was thinking about pressure washing them, but that
introduces a number of risks, including striking the tire, not to mention
possibly damaging the finish on the wheels?

Could really use a miracle product / great idea right about now! Thanks in
advance!

Regards,
William F.
#1366


	
		
__________________________________ 
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 
http://mail.yahoo.com




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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 15:10:32 -0000
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>
Subject: Re: Window channel seal replacement

Hi Dan,

Maybe you could clarify the aspect of the process that you're having 
trouble with?

I think this is already in the tech section, but I put the seal in the 
channel and then started with the front of the channel assembly by 
getting the seal separated (using a jewler's screwdriver to coax it 
apart) and over the edge of the glass at the very front. Once it's 
started it's a matter of working slowly towards the real and using the 
little jewler's screwdriver (or something similar) to help guide the 
seal over the edge of the glass as you work your way back. It was a 
little tedious but not particularly difficult. I suppose the seal 
could be lubricated to help it slip over the edge of the glass, but I 
put mine on dry.

You're right that the seal looks a lot nicer than the sloppy RTV and 
leaves much more finished appearance.

   Knut


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Daniel" <dmcburn75_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>>
>> Dear group.
>> 
>> This weekend I "attempted" to replace the window channel seal on the
>> toll booth window. My 81 DeLorean was originally sealed with RTV
>> giving it a somewhat sloppy appearance. I would like the use the
>> rubber gasket that was implemented around vin 6300.
>> 
>> I followed directions posted in the technical section by Mr Grimsrud,
>> but was unable to get it seated. Does anyone have any tips or
>> shortcuts on how to accomplish this? There must have been an easier
>> way to do this in the factory. 
>> 
>> -Dan
>>









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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 17:23:25 -0000
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Speedo cable bracket

You could just link up a cresent wrench on the end so that you can 
get a bit more leverage (I used to do this when I worked in a shop 
and getting the impact gun in there was not possible due to the 
sheer size of the gun)

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_o...> 
wrote:

>>
>> The bolts are threaded in the normal direction. Get a bigger 

wrench.

>> PB blaster is not going to help much, they are just torqued very 

tight.

>> David Teitelbaum
>> vin 10757
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_a...> wrote:
>
>>> >
>>> > I tried in vain to remove my broken Speedometer Cable Support
>
>> Bracket from 
>
>>> > the LF wheel yesterday...the bolts would not budge despite my 

best 

>>> > efforts.
>>> >
>
>>









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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 12:08:08 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Cleaning the wheels

Or you can get the dust shields at a fraction of the price here.

http://tinyurl.com/c43cv

Mark V


On Oct 17, 2005, at 10:37 AM, Shannon Yocom wrote:


>> William,
>> Once you get them clean might I suggest installing a set of Don 
>> Steger's dust
>> shields.
>> http://www.deloreanmotorcenter.com/_w000010_wheel_shield.html
>> Does a GREAT job of keeping the rims clean from brake dust. Now I 
>> rarely have to
>> spend any extra time scrub'n the rims.
>>
>> Shannon Y
>> 16506
>> -------------------
>>
>> From: ComposerZelgadis_at_dml_...
>> Date: Mon Oct 17, 2005  4:28 am
>> Subject: Cleaning the wheels 	
>> Greetings, list. I have the older dark-gray wheels. They look good when
>> kept perfectly clean, but look like total Hell when even slightly 
>> dirty.
>> Anyone else have this problem?
>>
>> So far, I've been using soap & water with a toothbrush to get in 
>> between
>> each spoke, but that's a real pain in the rear, especially since I'm 
>> one of
>> those guys where everything has to be clean all the time. I have some
>> spray-on,
>> hose-off wheel cleaner, but it just isn't up to snuff (think it's made 
>> by
>> Black Magic... and is just called "Wheel Cleaner"). I was wondering if 
>> someone
>>
>> knew of an easier way? I was thinking about pressure washing them, but 
>> that
>> introduces a number of risks, including striking the tire, not to 
>> mention
>> possibly damaging the finish on the wheels?
>>
>> Could really use a miracle product / great idea right about now! 
>> Thanks in
>> advance!
>>
>> Regards,
>> William F.
>> #1366





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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 10:37:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Cleaning the wheels

 
I always thought the nice thing about my grey wheels was that they already look like they're covered in brake dust, so you can't tell when they are dirty!
 
Seriously though, I always liked the early cars, but never particularly liked the dark wheels.  Over the last couple of years, they've grown on me and I kind of like the "dying breed" status.
 
Shannon is right; I run the brake dust shields on my car and they work quite nicely.  They might source some criticism from die-hard auto enthusiasts, but it's a lot better than constantly cleaning wheels.  Besides, nobody can see them anyway....
 
Jake Kamphoefner
1063


Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
William,
Once you get them clean might I suggest installing a set of Don Steger's dust
shields.
http://www.deloreanmotorcenter.com/_w000010_wheel_shield.html
Does a GREAT job of keeping the rims clean from brake dust. Now I rarely have to
spend any extra time scrub'n the rims.

Shannon Y
16506
-------------------

From: ComposerZelgadis_at_dml_...
Date: Mon Oct 17, 2005 4:28 am
Subject: Cleaning the wheels 
Greetings, list. I have the older dark-gray wheels. They look good when
kept perfectly clean, but look like total Hell when even slightly dirty.
Anyone else have this problem?

So far, I've been using soap & water with a toothbrush to get in between
each spoke, but that's a real pain in the rear, especially since I'm one of
those guys where everything has to be clean all the time. I have some
spray-on,
hose-off wheel cleaner, but it just isn't up to snuff (think it's made by
Black Magic... and is just called "Wheel Cleaner"). I was wondering if someone


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 10:53:10 -0700
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>
Subject: Water in gas?!?

Last time I took the D out it was running well until I pulled in to  
get gas. The tank was fairly empty so I filled it and took off then  
about a mile later the car started hesitating like it was starving  
for fuel. I was sitting at a light and when I gave it gas to take off  
the engine died but restarted when I turned the key. The car kept  
acting like it was starving for fuel and after a block or so it  
started running fine.

Yesterday I pulled it out of the  garage to take it out for a run and  
as soon as it was in the driveway it died. I restarted it and it died  
again. I  pulled the fuel pump and verified that it was working by  
jumping the relay connectors.  I finally pulled an injector and stuck  
it in a bottle , jumped the relay again and pushed down on the air  
flow meter.  The fuel that sprayed out into the bottle was a cloudy   
and seems to have a lot of water in it.  Put everything back and  
tried firing it up again thinking If I could get it running It would  
pull the water through the system. After cranking it  a couple times  
there was one hell of a backfire but no starting.  The battery was  
almost dead from all the starting attempts and It wouldn't start with  
a jump so It was pushed back into the garage.

This morning I took it off the charger and tried to fire it up. It  
starts but as soon as fires up it dies and there seems to be a fair  
amount of water coming out of the the exhaust . I would hate to think  
that the back fire could have blown a head gasket and they were  
changed 200 miles ago. I'm not looking forward to having to pump out  
a full tank of gas for a little bit of water in the bottom but was  
thinking that since gas floats on water I might be able to pump a gal  
or two out and get the bulk of it, then add a fuel drier and run that  
tank of gas out and refill.  Anyone have any ideas?

Phil Priestley

Vin 2105
IN FLUX

http://alessandros120.com/
(503)370-9951
1(866)225-7985



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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 18:55:57 +0100
From: "Chris Hawes" <chris_at_dml_chawes.demon.co.uk>
Subject: FW: Northstar

http://members.tripod.com/~grannys/enginescadillac.html

 

The above link for surplus Northstar V8's a while back illustrates the
weight of the engine as bare, approximately 400lbs, ready to run 413lbs and
with all Cadillac accessories 470ish.

 

Can anyone clarify what the weight of a DeLorean PRV is in comparison?

 

The engines unsurprisingly sold out quickly at just $2500!

 

Thanks in advance

 

Chris

Vin 5255



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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