Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2935
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:17 Oct 2005 23:55:00 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 8 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Doors
From: Joey Morgan <jlm1701music_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. Re: Water in gas?!?
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>

3. What do I need to replace a water pump?
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>

4. Re: Cleaning the wheels
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Re: Blending
From: Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>

6. Re: Water in gas?!?
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

7. Re: What else used our alternators?
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>

8. Re: Doors
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 10:54:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joey Morgan <jlm1701music_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Doors


Hey Matt,

You have quite a bit of D door experience  :)  
My driver side door is having problems. It sometimes
will not open from the outside. You said something
this past Saturday at Bernies about adjusting it. Can
you give me some details? I dont want to end up like
you....locked in my D. Thanks.

Joey
#6297


	
		
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http://mail.yahoo.com




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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 19:18:33 -0000
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Water in gas?!?

  I don't have a lot of experience with water in the fuel on our 
Deloreans, however I am familiar with the K-Jetronic system on other 
vehicles.  So my two cents may be a little off.

  First off I don't think you need to worry about blowing a head 
gasket during the backfire, possibly damaging/bending the fuel 
metering flap or blowing out a weak muffler but the head gaskets 
should be fine.

  From past experience I know that the fuel distributor can be very 
picky about any water of debris in the fuel supply.  The fuel 
distributor itself is non-servicable but if you were to take it apart 
the fuel metering piston (the correct name escapes me) will not fit 
back into its bore with fingerprints on it.  Not dirt, just oils from 
fingerprints.  So you see the tolerances are very fine and the fuel 
supply must be clean.
  If you have enough water in your fuel that it is coming out of the 
injectors cloudy I would recommend draining the fuel tank completely 
and starting with fresh fuel.  Also change your fuel filter.  I know 
it's a hassle, but it's better than having to replace your fuel 
distributor.

Matt Smith
  

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_a...> wrote:

>>
>> Last time I took the D out it was running well until I pulled in 

to  

>> get gas. The tank was fairly empty so I filled it and took off 

then  

>> about a mile later the car started hesitating like it was starving  
>> for fuel. I was sitting at a light and when I gave it gas to take 

off  

>> the engine died but restarted when I turned the key. The car kept  
>> acting like it was starving for fuel and after a block or so it  
>> started running fine.
>> 
>> Yesterday I pulled it out of the  garage to take it out for a run 

and  

>> as soon as it was in the driveway it died. I restarted it and it 

died  

>> again. I  pulled the fuel pump and verified that it was working by  
>> jumping the relay connectors.  I finally pulled an injector and 

stuck  

>> it in a bottle , jumped the relay again and pushed down on the air  
>> flow meter.  The fuel that sprayed out into the bottle was a 

cloudy   

>> and seems to have a lot of water in it.  Put everything back and  
>> tried firing it up again thinking If I could get it running It 

would  

>> pull the water through the system. After cranking it  a couple 

times  

>> there was one hell of a backfire but no starting.  The battery was  
>> almost dead from all the starting attempts and It wouldn't start 

with  

>> a jump so It was pushed back into the garage.
>> 
>> This morning I took it off the charger and tried to fire it up. It  
>> starts but as soon as fires up it dies and there seems to be a 

fair  

>> amount of water coming out of the the exhaust . I would hate to 

think  

>> that the back fire could have blown a head gasket and they were  
>> changed 200 miles ago. I'm not looking forward to having to pump 

out  

>> a full tank of gas for a little bit of water in the bottom but was  
>> thinking that since gas floats on water I might be able to pump a 

gal  

>> or two out and get the bulk of it, then add a fuel drier and run 

that  

>> tank of gas out and refill.  Anyone have any ideas?
>> 
>> Phil Priestley
>> 
>> Vin 2105
>> IN FLUX
>> 
>> http://alessandros120.com/
>> (503)370-9951
>> 1(866)225-7985
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>









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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 19:24:22 -0000
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: What do I need to replace a water pump?

Hello all.
  I'm getting ready to replace the water pump in my D to fix a slow 
drip from the pump.  My question is, what else do I need and what else 
should I replace while I'm in there?
It looks like I'll need intake gaskets, and fuel injector seals might 
be a good idea to have handy.  Also, I'd like to replace any rubber 
hoses under the intake and on the water pump while I have it apart.
Is there anything else I should replace while I have it apart?
Are there any other parts I need?

Thanks,
Matt Smith







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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 12:22:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Cleaning the wheels

Mark,
(I'm not trying to rip into you, just being nit-picky.)

Do you know which product number/s fit the DeLorean's rims? 
I see only two that go all the way around. One shows different depths for rims
but gives no options on rim size or depth info.

The "dust shields turbo vented" [ ZX786976BF ] show different depths but no rim
sizes. When you do place it in your cart the DeLorean is not an option. Let alone
cars pre-1986.

The "universial-fit dust shields" [ ZX816445T ] don't offer a 4 lug 15" rim size
only a 4 lug 14" for the front. 	

I'm all for thrifty but the Don's extra price is worth avoiding a headache &
possible returns/re-shipping fees.

Shannon Y
16506


-----------------
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 12:08:08 -0500
   From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Cleaning the wheels

Or you can get the dust shields at a fraction of the price here.

http://tinyurl.com/c43cv

Mark V


On Oct 17, 2005, at 10:37 AM, Shannon Yocom wrote:


>> William,
>> Once you get them clean might I suggest installing a set of Don 
>> Steger's dust
>> shields.
>> http://www.deloreanmotorcenter.com/_w000010_wheel_shield.html
>> Does a GREAT job of keeping the rims clean from brake dust. Now I 
>> rarely have to
>> spend any extra time scrub'n the rims.
>>
>> Shannon Y
>> 16506



		
__________________________________ 
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Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.
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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 12:56:02 -0700
From: Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Blending

Joey,
I've done this twice now and both times took me about a weekend to do it. 
You could do it in just half a day, but it's a lot of work. For me, I also 
took a lot of time just to mask off the glass and trim. Then went over it 
section by section.

It's not terribly difficult, but there are some sections that are easy to 
screw up. The front pillars and the section of rear quarter panel between 
the glass and louvers are the most tricky parts. You must keep moving the 
pad in the direction of the grain, otherwise you will make ugly cross 
grains. Also, make sure you do a good job covering large areas like the 
hood. One time I didn't do it well enough and caused dark strips from where 
I didn't run the pad nearly as much as the other areas. I had to go back 
and reblend to whole hood to remove the stripes.

Just follow the suggestions in the DML archives. Unless you have really 
deep scratches or dents, blending it with the proper Scotch Brite pads 
should be all that's needed.

Good luck,
Chris - VIN 4099

At 01:45 AM 10/16/2005 -0700, you wrote:

>>I was wondering...on average, how long does it take to
>>blend the entire D by hand, no power tool? I am
>>wanting to do this soon and just want to prepare
>>myself and get a time frame. A day? A week? To do it
>>right (without having to send it off to Houston or
>>Grady or Special T, I know you guys will make it look
>>like it just came off the show room floor but this is
>>something I want to do) and have it look nice....about
>>how long?
>>To anyone that has done this, please let me know how
>>long it took you to do it and if it was a good or bad
>>experience for you.
>>Thanks.
>>
>>Joey
>>#6297






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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 20:50:27 -0000
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Water in gas?!?

Phil,I would suggest Pulling All the gas out(as described in my old 
posting below,using a Bulb type non-electric pump for Kerosene 
heaters)It is just NOT worth the risk of possible damage to the fuel 
system/exhaust system and possibly the motor to save on/or the gas in 
the tank.If you own a House,save it for your household lawn 
equipment.That gas will work just fine on your(small) lawn 
equipment,or if you rent a car,for some reason the newer cars can 
handle it.(ask me how I know) Deloreans ARE only happy with clean 
fresh gas,and even then they act up,What you might also have 
done,since your tank was almost dry,you might have disturbed the fine 
c-ap in your gas tank,if that stuff started flowing thru the 
system,it could make it act up,but then on the other hand your 
strainer in your tank might just be clogged/dirty,if you have a 
compressor,you might try cleaning that,but then again if it is water 
in the tank,next time you go to the gas station,look at the gas pump 
real close,most pumps(not all) usually have a little analog meter 
that tells when that pump(tank) is low on fuel(usually located on the 
lower part of the pump)if you see it says "LOW" DON'T pump from that 
gas pump.Otherwise you will find out the hard way, AFTER leaving the 
gas station.Been there.

cbl 

From: CBL302_at_dml_aol.com
Date: Sun, 28 Nov 1999 13:56:50 EST
X-Mailing-List: dmcnews_at_dml_egroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Draining gas
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
I found that the safest way to remove the gas from a Delorean tank 
after removing the fuel pump was to use one of those plastic kerosene 
pumps,it is all plastic
so that there is no chance of any kind of spark,they are found in any 
hardware store and they cost under $5.00,you put one end in the fuel 
tank and the other end in a plastic gas can,pump the bulb a few times 
and then it sucks the gas out,no electrical power needed
just be careful you do not over fill the gas can.With no gas in the 
tank it then is a snap to remove the gas tank.If you do not know what 
the kersone pump looks like I could e-mail a pic. 
Claude
000570  








--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_a...> wrote:

>>
>> Last time I took the D out it was running well until I pulled in 

to  

>> get gas. The tank was fairly empty so I filled it and took off 

then  

>> about a mile later the car started hesitating like it was starving  
>> for fuel. I was sitting at a light and when I gave it gas to take 

off  

>> the engine died but restarted when I turned the key. The car kept  
>> acting like it was starving for fuel and after a block or so it  
>> started running fine.
>> 
>> Yesterday I pulled it out of the  garage to take it out for a run 

and  

>> as soon as it was in the driveway it died. I restarted it and it 

died  

>> again. I  pulled the fuel pump and verified that it was working by  
>> jumping the relay connectors.  I finally pulled an injector and 

stuck  

>> it in a bottle , jumped the relay again and pushed down on the air  
>> flow meter.  The fuel that sprayed out into the bottle was a 

cloudy   

>> and seems to have a lot of water in it.  Put everything back and  
>> tried firing it up again thinking If I could get it running It 

would  

>> pull the water through the system. After cranking it  a couple 

times  

>> there was one hell of a backfire but no starting.  The battery was  
>> almost dead from all the starting attempts and It wouldn't start 

with  

>> a jump so It was pushed back into the garage.
>> 
>> This morning I took it off the charger and tried to fire it up. It  
>> starts but as soon as fires up it dies and there seems to be a 

fair  

>> amount of water coming out of the the exhaust . I would hate to 

think  

>> that the back fire could have blown a head gasket and they were  
>> changed 200 miles ago. I'm not looking forward to having to pump 

out  

>> a full tank of gas for a little bit of water in the bottom but was  
>> thinking that since gas floats on water I might be able to pump a 

gal  

>> or two out and get the bulk of it, then add a fuel drier and run 

that  

>> tank of gas out and refill.  Anyone have any ideas?
>> 
>> Phil Priestley
>> 
>> Vin 2105
>> IN FLUX
>> 
>> http://alessandros120.com/
>> (503)370-9951
>> 1(866)225-7985
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>









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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 15:35:55 -0500
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: What else used our alternators?

If it's a Ducillier, forget it.  The best use I ever found for one of 
those was on my '82 Le Car.  Worked great, plugged right in, belt 
tension maintained by 2x4. But they don't rebuild any better than they 
work.  It would be money wasted even if the armature shop would deign to 
look at it.
Warren at DMC


Videobob Moseley wrote:

>> I wonder if it would be better to just take in an OEM DeLorean alternator to 
>> a rebuild shop and have them rebuild it? I wonder if they can beef it up?
>> I have my original sitting in the garage.....hmmmmm....
>> -VB
>> 
>> 
>> 
>
>>>>From: "John Poland" <jpoland13_at_dml_charter.net>
>>>>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>>>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>>>Subject: Re: [DML] What else used our alternators?
>>>>Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2005 11:51:12 -0000
>>>>
>>>>I just had a rebuilt GM 105 amp alternator put in my car about a month
>>>>ago.  No 





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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 19:28:47 -0000
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Doors

Joey,
I should've showed you before I left.  But you take the top door 
panel off.  Open the window and start pulling the top of the panel 
off.  Watch out you don't break the "furr tree" connectors.  They 
pretty much hold the panel on.  Once you get it off, you can look 
down through I hole on the rear part os the doot and see the inside 
of the outside handle.  There is a cable hooked to it.  Follow it to 
where it connects somewhere near the middle of the door where there 
is a rocker lever with two rods hooked to it.  One rod operates the 
front latch of the door, and the other does the rear latch.  I 
believe Rich A. Referred to this moving part as the "tumbler."  Am I 
right Rich?  They way I saw your door acting, I believe you need to 
tighten up that cable.  On the tumbler where the cable connects, you 
will see a little nut and where the cable goes in is threaded.  
Loosen the nut and turn the cable like you would to take it 
completely out of where it connects.  Only do a litle bit at a time.  
It may only need a little adjustment.  Too loose, won't open.  Too 
tight and you'll end up like me stuck in my car.  I had to figure all 
that out while in there.  Let me know how it goes Joey.  

Matt
VIN: 2953

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Joey Morgan <jlm1701music_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>>
>> 
>> Hey Matt,
>> 
>> You have quite a bit of D door experience  :)  
>> My driver side door is having problems. It sometimes
>> will not open from the outside. You said something
>> this past Saturday at Bernies about adjusting it. Can
>> you give me some details? I dont want to end up like
>> you....locked in my D. Thanks.
>> 
>> Joey
>> #6297
>> 
>> 
>> 	
>> 		
>> __________________________________ 
>> Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 
>> http://mail.yahoo.com
>>









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