Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2936
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:18 Oct 2005 15:27:02 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. DeLorean owners in Ashland, VA? Or nearby?
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_delorean.com>

2. RE: What do I need to replace a water pump?
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>

3. Re: Engine Weight Reference Link
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

4. Re: Bernie's Ticking
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>

5. Re: Bernie's Ticking
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>

6. Idle adjustment screw?
From: "stefandmc" <stefandmc_at_dml_yahoo.ca>

7. Re: What do I need to replace a water pump?
From: "jangwin" <jeff_at_dml_delorean.com>

8. Re: What do I need to replace a water pump?
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

9. Re: 2 Questions Trunk & Pipes
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>

10. Re: Struts
From: "byrondelorean" <celiambyron_at_dml_msn.com>

11. New stereo system
From: "lingolor" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>

12. Re: Car show Oct 22, Mobile Alabama
From: "tuxr" <tuxdarby_at_dml_msn.com>

13. Re: Bernie's Ticking
From: "gullwingmag" <gullwing-magazine_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

14. Gullwing Calendar
From: "gullwingmag" <gullwing-magazine_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

15. RE: DeLorean owners in Ashland, VA? Or nearby?
From: "Jack Singer" <jsinger_at_dml_i-c.net>

16. Re: Engine vacuum problems?
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

17. RE: Struts
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

18. Re: Idle adjustment screw?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

19. RE: Water in gas?!?
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

20. Re: Engine vacuum problems?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

21. Black Interior Pieces Needed
From: "Adam Lee" <delorean852003_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. Flooded Delorean on Ebay
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

23. Re: New stereo system
From: ComposerZelgadis_at_dml_aol.com

24. Torsion bar adjustment: Complete
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

25. Re: 2 Questions Trunk & Pipes
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 15:55:53 -0500
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: DeLorean owners in Ashland, VA? Or nearby?

I'll be in Ashland Friday/Saturday this week, and DeLorean owners in 
these parts want to get together for a coffee/beer?

James Espey
DMC (Texas)
http://www.delorean.com
800/USA-DMC1




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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 14:22:52 -0700
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: RE: What do I need to replace a water pump?

Others will add to this, but...  While you are in the Valley of Death
also look at:

Must Do:
Soak all bolts in PB blaster well in advance!
Replacing all Back of Radiator Hoses
6 o rings for intake manifold
Coolant Y pipe o rings
Air horn gaskets
Thermostat and seal
Clean and inspect valley of death
New gaskets for inlet flanges on either side of water pump
Clean and refinish back of waterpump (you usually reuse your old
backplate)
All new bolts for back of waterpump (w/ anti seize)
All new bolts for Y pipe bolt down (w/ anti seize)
All new bolts for inlet pipe flanges (w/ anti seize)
All new bolts for intake manifold (w/ anti seize)
New Copper seals for injectors (if you replace the seals)


Should do:
Distributor Cap and Rotor
Plugs and Wires
All vacuum hoses
Vacuum port switch
New waterpump/alternator belt
Otterstadt sensor (while the system is drained anyway)
Metal Coolant Bottle
Oil Change (might as well)

Maybe Do:
New water return pipe
Coolant Y pipe
Temp sensor in coolant Y pipe
All new rubber hoses throughout right down to radiator (while the system
is drained anyway)
Water pump temp sensor
New Clutch Slave Cylinder (with bleeder kit?) or full clutch hydraulics
including SS line
New water heater control valve
Oxygen sensor

If your feeling ambitions its also a good time to:
Upgrade to metal radiator and new fans (while system is drained
Valve Cover Gaskets (while you have the room)
Upgrade Alternator (while the belt is off)
New Coil/Resistor (if your doing the plugs wires and caps it's a good
time to upgrade to 8mm and higher spark)
Replace all fuel lines in the Engine bay


SpecialTauto.com has lots of good photos, kits, and tempting doo-dads -
it's a good place to help figure out what you want - but all vendors
have great deals and different prices and kits - shop around.

Tom




-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of dmcchaser
Sent: Monday, October 17, 2005 12:24 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] What do I need to replace a water pump?

Hello all.
  I'm getting ready to replace the water pump in my D to fix a slow drip
from the pump.  My question is, what else do I need and what else should
I replace while I'm in there?
It looks like I'll need intake gaskets, and fuel injector seals might be
a good idea to have handy.  Also, I'd like to replace any rubber hoses
under the intake and on the water pump while I have it apart.
Is there anything else I should replace while I have it apart?
Are there any other parts I need?

Thanks,
Matt Smith







To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

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www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
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Yahoo! Groups Links



 








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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 21:27:24 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Weight Reference Link

FYI

Engine Weight reference link: 

http://www.team.net/sol/tech/engine.html 

I think this was posted awhile back by Dick Ryan?

Later,
Rich W.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Chris Hawes" <chris_at_dml_c...> wrote:

>>
>> http://members.tripod.com/~grannys/enginescadillac.html
>> 
>> The above link for surplus Northstar V8's a while back illustrates 

the

>> weight of the engine as bare, approximately 400lbs, ready to run 

413lbs and

>> with all Cadillac accessories 470ish.
>> 
>> Can anyone clarify what the weight of a DeLorean PRV is in 

comparison?

>> 
>> snip <  









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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 22:18:12 -0000
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Bernie's Ticking

This problem came up when the throttle got stuck for about 5 seconds, 
not wide open only hit about 5-6K RPM.  I'm thinking its the cam shaft.

Thing is the engine still runs, and idles great.  See other message 
from me about what is going to happen.

Bernie

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:

>>
>> When was the last valve adjustment? I know people who have done a 
>> valve adjustment the wrong way causing a tick. They would have the 
>> engine at #1 TDC, do the adjustment and upon turning the crankshaft 
>> 360 degrees to get to #1 again-they stopped at the #6 mark thinking 

it 

>> was the #1. This will cause a tick on the driver's side, I think it 
>> was #5 cylinder, but I can't remember exactly. That car runs pretty 
>> damn smooth though! -----Dani B. #5003
>>









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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 22:15:14 -0000
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Bernie's Ticking

All,

After haveing lot's of people look and hear, the noise from the 
engine, I have determined two things:

1.  I know I am horrible using feeler guages, never could get the 
feel for them.  Trust me on this one, I could never get a set of 
points set right in a distributor, ever, and I have been working on 
old cars since 1978.  Someone else would always have to do it for me.

2.  BB begs for upgrades, so with that said, she is going to Houston 
for the Stage II engine upgrade, which will replace the cams and 
valves anyway.  

And I get the performance exhaust, Nology ignition system, all for 
the very low price of, way too much.  But what the heck, it's only 
money, and if they had a stage 3 engine, I would probably go for 
that.

Now I have another problem, which car do I bring to Pheasent Run?  
Crash and Burn, or Black Beauty?  I know I will be able to find BB 
in the parking lot a whole lot easier than C&B.  I can't drive both 
at the same time, and a D can't tow anything.

Bernie


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jeff Friday" 
<DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_m...> wrote:

>>
>> I think it's the rockers making such a racket and possibly coupled 

with an 

>> exhaust gasket leak.  Remove the rocker cover and check/adjust 

valve 

>> clearance.  Check for a leak in the exhaust gasket.
>> 
>> However, this one sounds particularly bad and I believe it is 

possible that 

>> the cams have been rubbed down.  They sound very worn.  If that's 

the case I 

>> do not believe a valve adjustment will fix this one...only new 

cams.

>> 
>> Jeff in NC
>> 
>> 
>
>>> >From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_h...>
>>> >Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>> >To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>> >Subject: [DML] Bernie's Ticking
>>> >Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2005 15:28:03 -0000
>>> >
>>> >DML,
>>> >Here is a video I took of Bernie's Black Beauty DeLorean 

yesterday with

>>> >the ticking noise.  I told him I'd record it for everyone to look 

and

>>> >and maybe find out what is wrong.  Any thoughts?
>>> >
>>> >http://media.putfile.com/100_014843
>>> >
>>> >Matt
>>> >VIN: 2953
>
>>









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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 22:34:26 -0000
From: "stefandmc" <stefandmc_at_dml_yahoo.ca>
Subject: Idle adjustment screw?

Ok. Im buring really rich and when i start my car from cold sometimes 
black smoke comes out. It was so bad that last week my car wouldnt 
start because the spark plugs were coated with carbon. Once clean the 
car started right up. So i called john hervey and he says to adjust my 
mixture. But the delema is that i dont have an adjustment screw (allen 
wrench) and the hole it is sussposed to go down is still sealed from 
the factory. Now i was reading a pamphlet that i believe was published 
from the delorean motor center. (its about 10 pages long) about basic 
delorean maintenece and care, plus what to check if the car wont 
start. So on one of the pages it says the idle adjustment screw never 
needs to be adjusted just the idle computer etc that controls 
everything. So im debating whether or not to drill and adjust or to 
replace computer (which is expensive and i dont want to do) any 
opinions/thoughts are appreciated. 








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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 22:44:04 -0000
From: "jangwin" <jeff_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: What do I need to replace a water pump?

Since it's such a pain to get to the distributor with everything in
the way, you might want to check the condition of the rotor and cap,
and the wires as well, and replace them if they look worn. Also, as
long as the valve covers are off, check the valve adjustments. I just
replaced my water pump (leaky hoses, but I replaced the pump as long
as I was there) two weeks ago, so now I'm expecting everything there
to last a good long time.

Jeff Angwin
VIN 3034









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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 23:10:54 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: What do I need to replace a water pump?

Almost anything under there that you can unscrew and replace - do it. 
I'm sure there are more lists coming, but at a minimum do all the O-
rings and hoses, both water and vacuum. Great time for a cap and rotor 
too. 

I'm also a big fan of cleaning and painting (POR15) the entire valley. 
For a pic of what it looks like completed, take a look at my car for 
sale page (shameless plug) at the very bottom of the page. 
Unfortunately after you put the intake back on all this beauty is 
hidden. 

http://www.dmcnews.com/BuyNSell/2466forsale.html

Dave Swingle



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_j...> wrote:

>>
>> Hello all.
>>   I'm getting ready to replace the water pump in my D to fix a slow 
>> drip from the pump.  My question is, what else do I need and what 

else 

>> should I replace while I'm in there?
>> It looks like I'll need intake gaskets, and fuel injector seals might 
>> be a good idea to have handy.  Also, I'd like to replace any rubber 
>> hoses under the intake and on the water pump while I have it apart.
>> Is there anything else I should replace while I have it apart?
>> Are there any other parts I need?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Matt Smith
>>









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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 18:55:41 -0500
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: 2 Questions Trunk & Pipes

That file was my car; it's an otherwise stock engine with the
delorean.com<http://delorean.com>performance exhaust. Brings a smile
just thinking about it.
-Kevin

On 10/16/05, gbsdelorean <gbsdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:

>>
>> Is it hard to locate an '81 hood with a gas flap? I believe there
>> were very few produced. It seems as though this would make it easier
>> to fill, instead of raising the whole trunk(?).
>>
>>
>> The sound file DMCh_perf_Exhaust.WAV - What was done to create such a
>> rich sounding DeLorean?





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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2005 00:41:04 -0000
From: "byrondelorean" <celiambyron_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: Struts

When I picked my Delorean after a years long worth of restoration, I 
was dissapointed in the fact that the doors didn't open up like I 
remembered, same with my hood. I thought this was unnacceptable and 
that a new set of struts should be tried. Sure enough th doors flew 
up and bounced nicely. I am also in Michigan, my doors still fly up 
perfect even in 50 degree temp. I have a feeling there are reject 
struts for sale unknowingly at the various vendors or may just be 
too old.  I have a friend with new DMCH struts, his doors droop. I 
have new DMCH struts and they operate perfect. Specialty Auto says 
they have the best around and they are warranteed for 5 years. I 
would buy a couple sets to try. I am anxious to read your new post 
regarding the outcome. I bet you will uncover the mystery of the 
drooping doors. The torsion bar should not be touched unless you 
have exhausted every option.

Question thou, When cleaning the inside of my windows, sometimes I 
hold the door down half way, I noticed oil/gas spew from the piston. 
I am sure this takes a little life away from the piston when this 
happens. 
Byron

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Lacy <heylacy_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>>
>> Hi, I bought a set of new struts earlier this year. The temp was 

55 and one door drooped lower than the other, so I switched them and 
the opposite door drooped. The vender says I need to adjust rods but 
I  think I got a odd match set of struts. Do  you think I should ask 
for a repacement strut before I fool with door rod adjustments? 
Should I send them back for refund and buy temperature adjusted 
struts? I'm in Mich. and the temp went to 55 and they are drooping 
already. Looks really low tech when getting out somewhere. One more 
thing, I had a chance to switch my new struts with another D owner  
and  his worked fine on my car. Why don't all newer cars' struts 
droop in cold weather?  Thanks for listening, any advice would be 
helpful, lacy

>> 
>> 
>> mike.griese_at_dml_w... wrote:Nope - simple gas laws state that a gas has 

lower pressure at lower 

>> temperature.
>> 
>> --
>> Mike
>> 
>> 
>> -------------- Original message from "gbsdelorean" : --------------

 

>> 
>> 
>
>>> > Dear Owners 
>>> > Was looking at a Delorean and the owner said that the doors 

droop in 

>>> > winter because the struts are gas filled and set for 72 degrees, 

temps 

>>> > much below that will cause
>
>>









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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 23:17:12 -0000
From: "lingolor" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>
Subject: New stereo system

I'm in the market for a new stereo system for my D (figured I'd do it 
while my dash and center console was removed) and am looking for people 
that have recently done this.  My budget is between five and 1K dollars 
for this stereo upgrade.  
Crutchfield doesn't list a DeLorean on their website. So what stereos 
have yall installed sucessfully? (Without an adapter plate for the 
face).
Should I get an amplifier?  If so, how much is to much (watts?)?  
Woofer? Is a single 10inch to much or not enough?  Should I put 3-way 
speakers in the dash?  Or just tweeters?  Will four speakers (two in 
the dash and two in the rear (not counting the woofer)) be enough for 
superior sound, or should I add some extra speakers somewhere?
I would have looked in the archives for this info. but stereo 
technology changes about as much as personal computers do. So I thought 
I had better ask directly.
Any help in this new arena for me would be greatly appreciated.

Lingo #2034 







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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2005 00:02:25 -0000
From: "tuxr" <tuxdarby_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: Car show Oct 22, Mobile Alabama

We fully expect a future posting with a link to pictures  :) 

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "soenksen_scott" <soenksen_scott_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:

>>
>> Just to let those along the gulf coast know that there will be a car 
>> show in Mobile, Alabama on October 22.
>> It will be at the Springdale Mall Hooters.
>> If some of you remember, in 1998, we had 11 Deloreans at the show. 

Even 

>> Steve from DMC Houston was able to come to that one!
>> Let's make it 12 this time!
>> 
>> "Pensacola Scott"
>>









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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2005 01:35:29 -0000
From: "gullwingmag" <gullwing-magazine_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Bernie's Ticking

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_c...> wrote:

>>

I can't drive both 

>> at the same time, and a D can't tow anything.
>> 
>> Bernie


Dont tell my Yellow D that... it pulls a trailer just fine :~}

Ron







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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2005 01:41:47 -0000
From: "gullwingmag" <gullwing-magazine_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Gullwing Calendar

Last call to submit pics for the 2006 Gullwing Calendar.  Remember, 
this will be an anniversary edition calendar.  We have a nice selection 
but would like to give everyone one more chance to give it a shot (or 
give us the shot)  If we use your pic you get a free calendar!

Ron
gullwing-magazine_at_dml_sbcglobal.net







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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 22:22:06 -0400
From: "Jack Singer" <jsinger_at_dml_i-c.net>
Subject: RE: DeLorean owners in Ashland, VA? Or nearby?

James,

Please stop on by.  I have two Deloreans in Ashland.  I own the Carvel
Ice Cream shop on Rt. 33 in Glen Allen, just a couple of miles from
Ashland.

Jack Singer
(804) 399-2552 cell
20069, 10002

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of James Espey
Sent: Monday, October 17, 2005 4:56 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] DeLorean owners in Ashland, VA? Or nearby?

I'll be in Ashland Friday/Saturday this week, and DeLorean owners in 
these parts want to get together for a coffee/beer?

James Espey
DMC (Texas)
http://www.delorean.com
800/USA-DMC1




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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2005 02:11:17 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Engine vacuum problems?

At first, I didn't realize I had forgotten to hook up this vacuum 
line and so the barb was left open sucking in the air. When I 
finally noticed this I hooked the line back up and had the problems 
I described in my previous post; so I then removed the line and 
capped off the barb. Other then the one ridiculously huge leak I 
have on one side- the exhaust sounds like the engine is running a 
bit rich. For checking the vacuum: I hooked up my gauge to the RH 
rear barb of the intake, have the LF side capped, the cold start 
barbs running to themselves and finally the throttle body barb 
capped. I then switched between LH and RH sides and experimented 
uncapping/hooking up lines to make sure the lines weren't leaking. 
Checking the vacuum and my meter read about 16.5 in Hg; when I first 
started up the gauge went from 14-16 with the slight idle seek for 
about 10 seconds until it steadied. If I hold about 1,500 RPM it 
will jump to 18 in Hg, let go and there is the normal sudden 
increase in vacuum to about 20-and then back down to 16.5. So I'm 
guessing this means I have a leak somewhere? Now, I know that my "W" 
air horn to intake gaskets aren't leaking, as well as the O rings 
going to the throttle body. I also know the joint between the 
throttle body and metering unit isn't leaking. All my engine's O 
rings are brand new and the vacuum lines are silicone-were inspected 
for any cuts and they are fine. The lines that also slide onto a 
connection easily (t-body barb) have a clamp to tighten the lines 
onto their barbs so they don't leak. My sensor plate sits at the 
correct height and doesn't touch any of the sides-I verified this by 
pushing it down, and with the throttle body removed; pushing it up 
to hit the stop. The frequency valve is buzzing constantly naturally 
(not forced with a bypassed full throttle switch) and the O2 sensor 
is brand new. The brass tube slides easily into the base of the 
metering unit; is this supposed to be, or is it supposed to be snug? 
Other then that, the only thing left would be the intake to head O 
rings right? Both the hoses for the idle motor are new and snug as 
well as clamped down. Am I missing somewhere else? Thanks for the 
help guys -----Dani B. #5003







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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 21:25:49 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Struts

Byron, The struts I sell are the new factory original Stabilus and after
over 1000 sold I have not a defective one out of the box. The point is they
are warranted for any mechanical defects like length, or premature oil
seepage rendering them defective. 
Please note they will wear out as any strut will do over time, but till then
you can rest assured they are most likely the strongest you will see.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com


   

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
byrondelorean
Sent: Monday, October 17, 2005 6:41 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Struts

When I picked my Delorean after a years long worth of restoration, I 
was dissapointed in the fact that the doors didn't open up like I 
remembered, same with my hood. I thought this was unnacceptable and 
that a new set of struts should be tried. Sure enough th doors flew 
up and bounced nicely. I am also in Michigan, my doors still fly up 
perfect even in 50 degree temp. I have a feeling there are reject 
struts for sale unknowingly at the various vendors or may just be 
too old.  I have a friend with new DMCH struts, his doors droop. I 
have new DMCH struts and they operate perfect. Specialty Auto says 
they have the best around and they are warranteed for 5 years. I 
would buy a couple sets to try. I am anxious to read your new post 
regarding the outcome. I bet you will uncover the mystery of the 
drooping doors. The torsion bar should not be touched unless you 
have exhausted every option.






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2005 02:44:27 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Idle adjustment screw?

Since you still have the tamper-proof plug you should not be very far
off on the mixture adjustment. You either have dirty fuel injectors or
misfiring spark plugs. You should see a nice pattern from the
injectors, not a stream or a dribble. If you don't know how old the
wires are replace them, the cap and rotor. A new set of plugs would
also be good. If it is still very rich on start-up the cold start
system may not be working correctly. Make sure that there is nothing
plugged into the Hot Start Plug by the fuse block. Make sure that the
air filter is not dirty and the air sensor plate does not rub on the
sides of the venturi.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stefandmc" <stefandmc_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>>
>> Ok. Im buring really rich and when i start my car from cold sometimes 
>> black smoke comes out. It was so bad that last week my car wouldnt 
>> start because the spark plugs were coated with carbon. Once clean the 
>> car started right up. So i called john hervey and he says to adjust my 
>> mixture. But the delema is that i dont have an adjustment screw (allen 
>> wrench) and the hole it is sussposed to go down is still sealed from 
>> the factory. Now i was reading a pamphlet that i believe was published 
>> from the delorean motor center. (its about 10 pages long) about basic 
>> delorean maintenece and care, plus what to check if the car wont 
>> start. So on one of the pages it says the idle adjustment screw never 
>> needs to be adjusted just the idle computer etc that controls 
>> everything. So im debating whether or not to drill and adjust or to 
>> replace computer (which is expensive and i dont want to do) any 
>> opinions/thoughts are appreciated.
>>









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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 21:50:57 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Water in gas?!?

Phil, You might want to take the fuel line off the bottom of the filter and
run it into a glass jar and have someone jumper 87 / 30 on the fuel pump
relay to see what comes out. If there is water then correct that and then
take the return fuel line off the metal line going into the FP boot, extend
it and run that into a glass jar also. 
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Phil Priestley
Sent: Monday, October 17, 2005 11:53 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Water in gas?!?

Last time I took the D out it was running well until I pulled in to  
get gas. The tank was fairly empty so I filled it and took off then  
about a mile later the car started hesitating like it was starving  
for fuel. I was sitting at a light and when I gave it gas to take off  
the engine died but restarted when I turned the key. The car kept  
acting like it was starving for fuel and after a block or so it  
started running fine.






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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2005 02:50:38 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Engine vacuum problems?

Pul the intake manifold. One of the "O" rings to one of the holes in
the cylinder head is not sealing. You should be able to get 18" at
idle. The other possability is a leak in the large hose going to the
vacuum booster for the brakes. Pull it off and plug it and then see if
the vacuum gets any higher. It is the large hose coming off the front
of the intake on the right side. The air tube should be snug, you can
see it from inside the venturi. Make sure the "O" ring is sealing and
the tube is all the way in. Use a bit of silicon on it and the "O"
rings on the intake manifold to cylinder head. Make sure the intake
manifold is properly positioned and sealing fully when tightened up.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:

>>
>> At first, I didn't realize I had forgotten to hook up this vacuum 
>> line and so the barb was left open sucking in the air. When I 
>> finally noticed this I hooked the line back up and had the problems 
>> I described in my previous post; so I then removed the line and 
>> capped off the barb. Other then the one ridiculously huge leak I 
>> have on one side- the exhaust sounds like the engine is running a 
>> bit rich. For checking the vacuum: I hooked up my gauge to the RH 
>> rear barb of the intake, have the LF side capped, the cold start 
>> barbs running to themselves and finally the throttle body barb 
>> capped. I then switched between LH and RH sides and experimented 
>> uncapping/hooking up lines to make sure the lines weren't leaking. 
>> Checking the vacuum and my meter read about 16.5 in Hg; when I first 
>> started up the gauge went from 14-16 with the slight idle seek for 
>> about 10 seconds until it steadied. If I hold about 1,500 RPM it 
>> will jump to 18 in Hg, let go and there is the normal sudden 
>> increase in vacuum to about 20-and then back down to 16.5. So I'm 
>> guessing this means I have a leak somewhere? Now, I know that my "W" 
>> air horn to intake gaskets aren't leaking, as well as the O rings 
>> going to the throttle body. I also know the joint between the 
>> throttle body and metering unit isn't leaking. All my engine's O 
>> rings are brand new and the vacuum lines are silicone-were inspected 
>> for any cuts and they are fine. The lines that also slide onto a 
>> connection easily (t-body barb) have a clamp to tighten the lines 
>> onto their barbs so they don't leak. My sensor plate sits at the 
>> correct height and doesn't touch any of the sides-I verified this by 
>> pushing it down, and with the throttle body removed; pushing it up 
>> to hit the stop. The frequency valve is buzzing constantly naturally 
>> (not forced with a bypassed full throttle switch) and the O2 sensor 
>> is brand new. The brass tube slides easily into the base of the 
>> metering unit; is this supposed to be, or is it supposed to be snug? 
>> Other then that, the only thing left would be the intake to head O 
>> rings right? Both the hoses for the idle motor are new and snug as 
>> well as clamped down. Am I missing somewhere else? Thanks for the 
>> help guys -----Dani B. #5003
>>









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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2005 04:41:21 -0000
From: "Adam Lee" <delorean852003_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Black Interior Pieces Needed

Hey Group. I am looking for a black passenger side knee pad and a 
drivers side armrest (with built in strap hole). If you have any of 
these please email me privately. 

Thanks,
Adam Lee







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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2005 04:34:26 -0000
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Flooded Delorean on Ebay

I was wondering if this Delorean on Ebay:

http://tinyurl.com/8yftc  (vin#4004)

is the same Salvage Flood car from New Orleans La.

as this Delorean in the Photos section on DMCNEWS

http://tinyurl.com/asyxq

or were there two cars that got flooded out.

cbl







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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 23:58:12 EDT
From: ComposerZelgadis_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: New stereo system

Sorry man, but you will *have* to either cut the face plate, or buy the  DMCH 
upgrade.  There is simply *no* way around this, unless you wanna opt  for 
another tape deck.
 
Amplifier? - YES
Woofer? - Maybe.  Depends on how much bass you want.  If you  listen to a lot 
of rap and the like, this is obviously a must.  Where do  you plan to mount 
this sub?  DMCH / DMCF's upgrade is about $1,000 or so,  and they really give 
you the works!  My only gripe with this setup is that  you lose the driver-side 
lockbox for the 8" sub.  Some people remove the  spare tire and drop in big 
subs in there.  I personally don't recommend  this setup, only because I've had 
to use my spare tire before!
 
I have four 5.25" speakers, two in the footwells, two on the  rear-shelf.  
The deck is a Sony MP3 CD player... I forget the model number,  but it cost 
about $120.  52 x 4 peak, around 20 ~ 22 RMS.  In my  experience, this has been a 
real lousy setup.  The deck was really worth  the $120, and the sound is good 
too... up until around 55 mph.  I'm  thinking an amplifier may solve this 
problem, but I haven't decided anything  quite yet.  I may go 6x9s in the rear 
shelf, and tweeters in the front dash  (where the old 3s were).  Subwoofer in the 
trunk, alongside an amp or  two.  But I digress.
 
If you really like the sound of your home stereo set, you're going to have  
to spend some real money to copy that sound over to your DeLorean (you can 
quite  easily run up your $1k budget).  If you're really a nutball like I am, you  
may also take a few avenues to reduce the level of sound the DeLorean itself  
produces (wind noise, engine noise, etc etc). Dynamat (it is Dynamat, right?) 
is  a popular choice.  And there's always new seals and what not.
 
Hope this helps.
 
Regards,
William F.
#1366
 
 
 
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 22:23:51 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Torsion bar adjustment: Complete

First, big thanks to everyone who helped me out here. Both the driver
& passenger side torsion bars have been adjusted properly. The doors
now open with virtually no bounce at the end of travel. With any luck,
I should never have to touch them again; just replace the struts when
they start to droop.

Some notes from the procedure:

1. The threads on the right of the passenger side bracket were
stripped beyond repair. A "recoil" kit was used to fix this. Let me
tell you, these recoil kits aren't cheap, but it did one hell of a
job. Quite frankly, I believe the repair is stronger than the original
threads were. I was very hesitant to do this but when all was said and
done, it was a simple 5 minute procedure.

2. There's no need to make that wooden thing and mess with long
extensions, etc. A hex key, pipe, and removing the louvers takes care
of it. Huge thanks to those who pointed this out, you saved me a good
deal of time and money.

3. Removing & reinstalling the louvers is a simple task. Again,
literally a 5 minute procedure.

4. The tension on these torsion bars is really no big deal. We were
prepared for a lot of wrestling and pain - pulled the bolts and
thought, "That's it?" Carrying my 2 year old around a store is more
work than holding the tension on these bars. If it weren't for the
back and forth nature required to get the brackets off, I could do
this by myself.

5. The driver's side bracket finally came off. We bent a couple of
screwdrivers up in the process, but it came off. Lubed it up with
anti-sieze and the next 3 times we had to take it off (due to me
missing the proper notches twice in a row, doh!) it was much easier.

Again, I appreciate everyone's assistance.

--
- Ryan
http://www.memfrag.com - Memory Fragment Search & Storage


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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2005 06:13:11 -0700
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>
Subject: Re: 2 Questions Trunk & Pipes

RE the hood with gas flap.   I guess there are various schools of thought on 
that....of course it would make it more convenient I am sure, but I do NOT 
have one and have never wanted one....you can pop the hood very quickly to 
get to the filler....on the other hand I don't drive my car all that much, 
like many drive it a LOT and are using that filler a lot....Mine might be 
once a month or so.   I like the smooth uncluttered lines of the D.   I DO 
have the hood lines though, which I like.  Just depends on your thinking .
Murray
Vin: 05962
Lic: DMC-XII




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