Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2938
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:19 Oct 2005 23:15:31 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 24 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: New stereo system
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>

2. Re: mounting a speed sensor magnet
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

3. Re: Re: Flooded Delorean on Ebay
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

4. Re: mounting a speed sensor magnet
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

5. Re: Bernie's Ticking
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>

6. Re: Idle adjustment screw?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

7. Re: : mounting a speed sensor magnet
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

8. RE: trailer hitch (was Bernie's Ticking)
From: "Arnie Brandon" <arnie_at_dml_pndc.org>

9. Re: trailer hitch
From: Dan Haney <DRHANEY_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

10. Re: Engine vacuum problems?
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

11. Reinstalling Air manifold
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>

12. Re: trailer hitch
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

13. Re: Struts
From: "John Poland" <jpoland13_at_dml_charter.net>

14. RE: trailer hitch
From: "Gary Hull" <Specialty_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>

15. Re: mounting a speed sensor magnet
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

16. Thermister wiring polarity?
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>

17. Mid Atlantic Track Event
From: "vtdmc" <wmack_at_dml_vt.edu>

18. Re: Thermister wiring polarity?
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

19. Newbie Owner - First Question
From: "o0shoryuken0o" <dmc06976_at_dml_mail.com>

20. Re: Newbie Owner - First Question
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

21. Re: Engine vacuum problems?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

22. Re: Newbie Owner - First Question
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

23. Re: Newbie Owner - First Question
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

24. Re: Newbie Owner - First Question
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2005 21:56:37 -0000
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: New stereo system

I've been wanting lately to put in a new stereo with new speakers and 
speaker wires.  I'm not wanting anything big for a stereo contest or 
anything.  Just something good to listen to while cruising around.  I'm 
getting the DMCH mounting plate and the speakers and wires.  Do I still 
need the wire harness that Videobob has or do I just get in there and 
cut away?

Matt
VIN: 2953







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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2005 16:32:58 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: mounting a speed sensor magnet

http://www.ryanwright.com/delorean/ccs100

I have this exact same setup on my car.

Mark V


On Oct 18, 2005, at 10:44 AM, Owen Emry wrote:


>> I'm trying to install a digital speedometer that uses a magnet mounted 
>> on an axle to count wheel revolutions.  A while back I read a post 
>> from someone who'd done the same thing, and found a perfect mounting 
>> hole in an axle for the magnet (and the accompanying sensor), but I 
>> can't find that post, now, and I can't find that mounting hole, 
>> either!
>>
>> If you've put a magnet/sensor setup on your car, please tell me where 
>> you put it!
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Owen





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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2005 15:18:02 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Flooded Delorean on Ebay

On 10/18/05, Qume Fox <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net> wrote:

>>
>> I'd watch out for this car as well for anyone interested. If it was
>> submerged in saltwater then it needs alot more work then just being
>> washed and having the fluids flushed. The car would probably have to
>> be completely stripped and every component dismantled and cleaned
>> thoroughly.. Saltwater is hell on anything and there's no way it could
>> have been cleaned out of everything with just the work listed in that
>> auction as having been done thus far.  As it sits everything electrical
>> would probably die or self destruct in 6months to a year if left untouched.


Right -- That would be why flooded DeLoreans sell for 1/4 the price.

--
- Ryan
http://www.memfrag.com - Make your favorites globally accessible


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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2005 15:10:24 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: mounting a speed sensor magnet

On 10/18/05, Owen Emry <owen_at_dml_aerodrome.us> wrote:

>> If you've put a magnet/sensor setup on your car, please tell me where you put it!


Hi Owen,

I installed a pair of magnets on my car for my cruise control setup.
They were installed on the driver's side rear half-shaft. At the point
where the shaft mounts to the transmission (I have a 5 speed; no
experience with an automatic), it's much larger and perfectly suited
for a magnet installation. I was able to modify the mounting bracket
that came with the sensor to mount into an existing bolt hole on the
transmission.

I've got a rough picture here: http://www.ryanwright.com/delorean/ccs100/10.jpg

It's not much, I know, but it was the best I could do without a lift.
A few months ago I had the transmission out of the car. I took
detailed closeups of the sensor & magnet mounting while it was out but
I seem to have lost the photos.

--
- Ryan
http://www.memfrag.com - Memory Fragment Search & Storage


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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2005 22:26:56 -0000
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Bernie's Ticking

But can it tow another DeLorean, full size?

Bernie

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "gullwingmag" <gullwing-magazine_at_dml_s...> 
wrote:

>>
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_c...> wrote:
>
>>> >
>
>> I can't drive both 
>
>>> > at the same time, and a D can't tow anything.
>>> > 
>>> > Bernie
>
>> 
>> Dont tell my Yellow D that... it pulls a trailer just fine :~}
>> 
>> Ron
>>









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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2005 22:39:52 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Idle adjustment screw?

Injector cleaner seems to help keep injectors clean, it does not seem
to do alot to actually clean them. The best bet is to remove them and
send them out to someone with a tester so they can be cleaned and
tested. You could pull them, jumper the fuel pump, and watch them
spray into cups. I would also replace the seals on them at the same
time. There should be a loose plug on a couple of wires under the wood
cover by the fuse block up by the rear wall. There should be nothing
plugged into it. It kind of looks like you could plug a relay into it
or a big flasher. Just push on the sensor plate and see if it touches
the sides while it moves up and down. You can also look for scratches
on the side where it rubs (it it is rubbing). You would also feel it
as it sticks and rubs (again if it rubs). Mileage is not an indicator
of the health of the injectors. One bad tank of gas or sitting for a
prolonged period can mess them up. It is also a good idea, if the
injectors are dirty, to pull the fuel pump, drain the gas tank, and
wipe it out. Once you get the car running again change the filter
after a a tank or 2 of fresh gas.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, stefan diklich <stefandmc_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>>
>> Thanks Dave!
>> Will adding fuel injector cleaner give me a good chance to have the

injectors cleaned, after all the car only has 21,000 miles on it? I j







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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2005 19:51:21 EDT
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: : mounting a speed sensor magnet

 On my car, which is an automatic, there was something that appeared to be 
just a hole on the left/drivers side of the tranny.  As it turns out it was 
threaded and allowed me to mount the sensor's bracket there.  I had to make 
several bends in the bracket to get it to line up with the magnets that I mounted on 
the inner CV hub.

BTW I used the Audiovox model which I mounted in the bonnet just to the right 
of the latch and it pulls the gas pedal so there is no interference with the 
throttle spool.

I was originally going to mount the vacuum servo under the dash near the 
bonnet release but the instructions mentioned that the soleniods inside the servo 
make noise...

Dē & 6530




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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2005 17:27:24 -0700
From: "Arnie Brandon" <arnie_at_dml_pndc.org>
Subject: RE: trailer hitch (was Bernie's Ticking)

Hey, it has pulled the ORIGINAL DeLorean trailer around the west for 22
years real well.
Arnie

 -----Original Message-----
From: 	dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]  On Behalf
Of Qume Fox
Sent:	Tuesday, October 18, 2005 8:42 AM
To:	dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject:	Re: [DML] trailer hitch (was Bernie's Ticking)

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "gullwingmag" <gullwing-
magazine_at_dml_s...> wrote:

>>
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_c...> wrote:
>
>>> >
>
>> I can't drive both
>
>>> > at the same time, and a D can't tow anything.
>>> >
>>> > Bernie
>
>>
>> Dont tell my Yellow D that... it pulls a trailer just fine :~}
>>
>> Ron
>>


I'm kinda scared to ask, but where in the heck did you find an area sturdy
enough to mount a hitch to? And for another matter Why would you want
to? I wouldn't think the PRV would be up for pulling much.






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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2005 20:38:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dan Haney <DRHANEY_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: trailer hitch

Bernie Wrote:

 "I can't drive both at the same time, and a D can't tow anything."

As some one already pointed out, there are Delorean's out there set up to tow trailers and I think there is even a tow truck Delorean. Although that could be a hoax.

But this reminded me of a story.

I was once at work when my wife called and left me a voice message (Pre cell phones). It seems her car broke down in front of the Burger King and needed my help. Well I live in the Denver area (Read about 500+ Burger Kings), but after a bit of thought I figured I knew which one. So I looked up the number and gave Burger King a call. The manager answers and I explain I am looking for my wife and what kind of car she's driving would he mind taking a look. A few minutes later I hear the manager yell "Hey guys come look there is a Delorean outside." It seems my father had come to help her and his only form of transport at the time was the Delorean.

To make a long story shorter... He hooked up a tow rope to the "D" car and our Ford Escort Wagon and towed it to our favorite garage, about two miles away. The Delorean had no trouble towing the car until... He went over a speed bump and then had to stop. When he started up again he couldn't pull the Escort over the speed bump due to lack of torque.... Now this is where the story gets a bit embarassing for us Delorean owners, The garage owner came out with a special "golf cart" hooked up my dead car and finished moving it into the garage...

So yes a Delorean can tow, just watch those speed bumps.

Dan Haney
vin 3254 - Part time tow truck
    


________________________________________
PeoplePC Online
A better way to Internet
http://www.peoplepc.com




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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 03:09:38 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Engine vacuum problems?

The hose going to the booster is the one I'm removing in order to 
hook up the gauge. You say make sure the intake is properly 
positioned, all I'm doing is resting the intake down and putting the 
bolts in finger tight-and then torque them. Is there something I'm 
missing? Which reminds me, is there a sequence for the intake? Is it 
possible for the intake to warp? I'm not sure how to make sure the 
intake is sealing other then the starting spray method. Thanks for 
the help -----Dani B. #5003



>> Pul the intake manifold. One of the "O" rings to one of the holes 

in

>> the cylinder head is not sealing. You should be able to get 18" at
>> idle. The other possability is a leak in the large hose going to 

the

>> vacuum booster for the brakes. Pull it off and plug it and then 

see if

>> the vacuum gets any higher. It is the large hose coming off the 

front

>> of the intake on the right side. The air tube should be snug, you 

can

>> see it from inside the venturi. Make sure the "O" ring is sealing 

and

>> the tube is all the way in. Use a bit of silicon on it and the "O"
>> rings on the intake manifold to cylinder head. Make sure the intake
>> manifold is properly positioned and sealing fully when tightened 

up.

>> David Teitelbaum
>> vin 10757








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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2005 20:26:14 -0700
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: Reinstalling Air manifold

As soon as my new bolts arrive I'm reinstalling my intake manifold.

What is the best order for reinstallation of components?

Plug wires on the plugs and injector hoses on injectors, pulled away from
center of engine?  Then intake, etc?





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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 04:12:03 -0000
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: trailer hitch

Isn't that what a Bricklin is for?(it has the high torque v8)and a 
beefy frame to attach a trailer hitch.That would look cool a Bricklin 
towing a Delorean on a trailer to a gathering.
cbl

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Dan Haney <DRHANEY_at_dml_p...> wrote:

>>
>> Bernie Wrote:
>> 
>>  "I can't drive both at the same time, and a D can't tow anything."
>> 
>> As some one already pointed out, there are Delorean's out there set 

up to tow trailers and I think there is even a tow truck Delorean. 
Although that could be a hoax.

>> 
>> But this reminded me of a story.
>> 
>> I was once at work when my wife called and left me a voice message 

(Pre cell phones). It seems her car broke down in front of the Burger 
King and needed my help. Well I live in the Denver area (Read about 
500+ Burger Kings), but after a bit of thought I figured I knew which 
one. So I looked up the number and gave Burger King a call. The 
manager answers and I explain I am looking for my wife and what kind 
of car she's driving would he mind taking a look. A few minutes later 
I hear the manager yell "Hey guys come look there is a Delorean 
outside." It seems my father had come to help her and his only form 
of transport at the time was the Delorean.

>> 
>> To make a long story shorter... He hooked up a tow rope to the "D" 

car and our Ford Escort Wagon and towed it to our favorite garage, 
about two miles away. The Delorean had no trouble towing the car 
until... He went over a speed bump and then had to stop. When he 
started up again he couldn't pull the Escort over the speed bump due 
to lack of torque.... Now this is where the story gets a bit 
embarassing for us Delorean owners, The garage owner came out with a 
special "golf cart" hooked up my dead car and finished moving it into 
the garage...

>> 
>> So yes a Delorean can tow, just watch those speed bumps.
>> 
>> Dan Haney
>> vin 3254 - Part time tow truck
>>     
>> 
>> 
>> ________________________________________
>> PeoplePC Online
>> A better way to Internet
>> http://www.peoplepc.com
>>









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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 05:13:09 -0000
From: "John Poland" <jpoland13_at_dml_charter.net>
Subject: Re: Struts

Got a new pair from SpecialT a few months ago.  Doors bounce at 90, 
open perfectly in the 80s, but nedd a little help at temps lower 
than this.  Bought these to replace ones I bought on eBay earlier 
this year.  They were horrible.  I guess nothing likes to pick up 
these 90 lb. doors when it's not warm out.
John
5935

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:

>>
>> Byron, The struts I sell are the new factory original Stabilus and 

after

>> over 1000 sold I have not a defective one out of the box. The 

point is they

>> are warranted for any mechanical defects like length, or premature 

oil

>> seepage rendering them defective. 
>> Please note they will wear out as any strut will do over time, but 

till then

>> you can rest assured they are most likely the strongest you will 

see.

>> John Hervey
>> www.specialtauto.com
>> 
>> 
>>    
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On 

Behalf Of

>> byrondelorean
>> Sent: Monday, October 17, 2005 6:41 PM
>> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>> Subject: Re: [DML] Struts
>> 
>> When I picked my Delorean after a years long worth of restoration, 

I 

>> was dissapointed in the fact that the doors didn't open up like I 
>> remembered, same with my hood. I thought this was unnacceptable 

and 

>> that a new set of struts should be tried. Sure enough th doors 

flew 

>> up and bounced nicely. I am also in Michigan, my doors still fly 

up 

>> perfect even in 50 degree temp. I have a feeling there are reject 
>> struts for sale unknowingly at the various vendors or may just be 
>> too old.  I have a friend with new DMCH struts, his doors droop. I 
>> have new DMCH struts and they operate perfect. Specialty Auto says 
>> they have the best around and they are warranteed for 5 years. I 
>> would buy a couple sets to try. I am anxious to read your new post 
>> regarding the outcome. I bet you will uncover the mystery of the 
>> drooping doors. The torsion bar should not be touched unless you 
>> have exhausted every option.
>>









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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2005 21:10:44 -0700
From: "Gary Hull" <Specialty_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>
Subject: RE: trailer hitch


>> I think there is even a tow truck Delorean. Although that could be a hoax.


See www.IN2TIME.com

Gary
IN2TIME





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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2005 23:15:59 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: mounting a speed sensor magnet

On 10/18/05, DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com> wrote:

>> http://www.ryanwright.com/delorean/ccs100
>>
>> I have this exact same setup on my car.
>>
>> Mark V


I really need to finish that page. I've actually got it mostly done,
just have to find time to post it. I want to get the car on a lift and
take some better photos of the magnet installation - that seems to be
a big point of concern for most people. I know it was for me; I came
close to dropping $500 on a different setup because it used a VSS
inserted between the lambda sensor and the speedo cable. Sticking
magnets on the car just seemed so tacky; a real hack, and one I didn't
want to attempt.

Then I did it anyway and found out it was no big deal. Easy
installation, relatively clean, and it saved me $400+ on a cruise
control. I'm hoping some better pictures of this particular point in
the installation will give others who might be on the fence the push
they need...

--
- Ryan
http://www.memfrag.com - Make your favorites globally accessible


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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 00:17:44 -0700
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: Thermister wiring polarity?

No joke, a rat ate through the wires leading to the idle speed thermistor in
the coolant Y pipe. (the car sat untouched for 12 years or so) I have gotten
a pristine plug from the salvage yard and nicely spliced it on to the
original wiring.  A buddy who is an electronics engineer assures me that the
thing is not polarity sensitive - just run one wire to each pole and your
fine - anyone know any differently before the intake goes back on? 





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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 11:07:03 -0000
From: "vtdmc" <wmack_at_dml_vt.edu>
Subject: Mid Atlantic Track Event


I know its late notice, but anyone interested in taking their Delorean 
out on the track is welcome to sign up and come out.  
My dealership will be out at Summit Point West Virginia this weekend. 
For more details visit www.fwash.com

Hope to see some of you there.
Willie

V5043







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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 13:16:36 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Thermister wiring polarity?

Your friend is correct

Martin

Tom Tait wrote:


>>No joke, a rat ate through the wires leading to the idle speed thermistor in
>>the coolant Y pipe. (the car sat untouched for 12 years or so) I have gotten
>>a pristine plug from the salvage yard and nicely spliced it on to the
>>original wiring.  A buddy who is an electronics engineer assures me that the
>>thing is not polarity sensitive - just run one wire to each pole and your
>>fine - anyone know any differently before the intake goes back on? 
>>
>>  
>>







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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 11:33:09 -0000
From: "o0shoryuken0o" <dmc06976_at_dml_mail.com>
Subject: Newbie Owner - First Question

Hello everyone.  

I've been lurking here for quite some time as I've had an interest in
buying a DMC - finally bought one this month!  

There is so much that I have to learn but my first question is:

What the heck is "Negative Earth"?  What about this vehicle's
electrical system gives it that classification?  One thing that the
owner made me aware of is that over time, the battery will lose its
charge.  After about two weeks I am starting to notice that.  It still
starts, but gradually it is losing it.

I bought a charger, the "trickle" kind that will automatically shut
off when the battery is charged, but I don't want to F up my DMC by
doing something stupid.

What is the proper method for charging a battery on a DMC?  Also, are
there any good walkthroughs or sites of interest that have to do with
the electrical system that would be good for a newbie like myself?  I
really want to learn more about the car and start checking stuff out
for myself.

Thanks!

Bill
06976







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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 13:48:06 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Newbie Owner - First Question

Negative earth simply means that negative is ground, and that's all. 
Because negative earth is and has been standard for quite some time 
today on all new cars, you will never see warnings all over the 
place for negative earth. On some old cars (mainly foreign) the 
systems used to be positive earth-positive terminal being the ground 
and hooked up to the frame; the negative terminal hooked up to the 
starter. There are still endless debates and discussions about why 
positive earth systems were even used in the first place. I'm not 
aware of any advantages of a positive earth system. Your battery 
shouldn't loose charge that fast. Provided all your major ground 
points are clean (battery to frame, the one by the coil, etc), and 
all your major positive points are clean (back of alternator, the 
one on the starter, the one near the coil and even on the battery; 
just follow the big red and cluster of brown wires); your battery 
should last a long time. I can leave my car sitting for weeks 
without unhooking the battery and it will crank over without lacking 
power. If you don't know how old the battery is-get a new one, but 
also clean these ground because a new battery will still drain with 
bad electrical contacts. If you switch the polarities in the 
DeLorean long enough, you'll find your ground straps on the 
doors/fenders along with all the ground wires running through out 
car starting burning up. Your wipers along with a few other 
accessories will start running without a key in the ignition. So, 
obviously never hook up the battery or wires inside the coil area 
wrong or you'll have some burned wires to deal with. Anyway, the way 
to charge the battery is simply remove it from the car, and hook it 
up to the charger. Congratulations on the new car -----Dani B. #5003







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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 13:42:29 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Engine vacuum problems?

Yu have to kind of roll the intake into the valley making sure not to
unseat the "O" rings. I then slide it around a little to smear the
silicone and line up the bolt holes. Insert the bolts, snug them up
and then torque them in a rotational pattern. I leave the ignition
wires and injectors out and out of my way, it is easy enough to
install them after installing the intake manifold. On a motor I
recently did I had a vacuum leak at one of the "O" rings. I attribute
it to the fact that I did not slide the intake around that time. It
must not have competely sealed causing the vacuum leak. It drove me
nuts till I found it and I did not like having to remove everything to
fix it! I don't think you are going to warp the intake. The Workshop
Manual has the torque. To look for vacuum leaks I use a propane bottle
with a short hose. Get the ones that are used for soldering pipes and
take the nozzle off. Slip a short hose over the end. Now when you put
the hose near the suspected leak open the valve for a moment. If the
engine speed changes you are near it. You must be VERY careful. A
stray spark from bad ignition wires will run your day.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:

>>
>> The hose going to the booster is the one I'm removing in order to 
>> hook up the gauge. You say make sure the intake is properly 
>> positioned, all I'm doing is resting the intake down and putting the 
>> bolts in finger tight-and then torque them. Is there something I'm 
>> missing? Which reminds me, is there a sequence for the intake? Is it 
>> possible for the intake to warp? I'm not sure how to make sure the 
>> intake is sealing other then the starting spray method. Thanks for 
>> 








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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 13:18:19 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Newbie Owner - First Question


Automotive electrical systems can be set up two ways - positive 
earth and negative earth.  What this means is that for positive
earth cars, the common voltage reference point or ground plane 
is the positive terminal of the battery.  For negative earth systems, 
the ground plane is the negative terminal of the battery.  Most cars
in the US since the '20s use negative earth systems, and all 
cars made worldwide today use negative earth.  Britain seemd
to hold on to positive earth systems for some of their smaller
manufacturers, so they always put a sticker in a prominent
location indicating which way the car was wired.  So, hook 
up your battery tender just like you would on any other car.
I like to use the terminals in the engine compartment for 
quick charges (the positive stud on the right side and the 
lift ring on the engine block for ground).  For longer 
charges, I take the battery out of the car.

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "o0shoryuken0o" <dmc06976_at_dml_mail.com>: -------------- 



>> Hello everyone. 
>> 
>> I've been lurking here for quite some time as I've had an interest in 
>> buying a DMC - finally bought one this month! 
>> 
>> There is so much that I have to learn but my first question is: 
>> 
>> What the heck is "Negative Earth"? What about this vehicle's 
>> electrical system gives it that classification? One thing that the 
>> owner made me aware of is that over time, the battery will lose its 
>> charge. After about two weeks I am starting to notice that. It still 
>> starts, but gradually it is losing it. 
>> 
>> I bought a charger, the "trickle" kind that will automatically shut 
>> off when the battery is charged, but I don't want to F up my DMC by 
>> doing something stupid. 
>> 
>> What is the proper method for charging a battery on a DMC? Also, are 
>> there any good walkthroughs or sites of interest that have to do with 
>> the electrical system that would be good for a newbie like myself? I 
>> really want to learn more about the car and start checking stuff out 
>> for myself. 
>> 
>> Thanks! 
>> 
>> Bill 
>> 06976 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 13:52:51 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Newbie Owner - First Question

"Negative Earth" is just the English way of saying negative ground.
The "proper" way to recharge a battery is to remove it from the car
and charge it slowly. If you do decide to charge it in the car use the
jumper post in the engine compartment and hook the black (negative)
lead to the motor. If the battery goes dead quickly have the batttery
tested. If it is old or ever frozen it will not have much capacity. If
the battery still goes dead quickly (within 2 weeks) either install a
master switch or find and fix the problem draining the battery. One
very common problem is the door lights. If the rubber boots are
missing from the plungers the switch is not pushed all the way in and
the lights stay on. Disconnect the lock module unless it jas been
upgraded. Make sure all the recalls have been done. Change ALL the
fluids. Check your tire pressures as per the label in the glove box.
Go over to dmcnews.com and look over the technical section under
electrical for the wiring. Get a Workshop and Parts manual. Register
on the DoD. Join a local owner's group and attend the events, other
owners will help you.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "o0shoryuken0o" <dmc06976_at_dml_m...> wrote:

>>
>> Hello everyone.  
>> 
>> I've been lurking here for quite some time as I've had an interest in
>> buying a DMC - finally bought one this month!  
>> 
>>








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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 09:33:09 -0400
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>
Subject: Re: Newbie Owner - First Question

Bill,

Congratulations on the purchase, by now all the fun is beginning to start 
I'm sure.  "Negative Earth" means the car has a negative ground system, like 
pretty much all cars.  You would probably have to look at an old British car 
like an Austin Healey to find a positive ground system.  The battery losing 
its charge is probably a combination of a lot of things, the most common is 
the stock door locking system.  The original logic box was faulty and soon 
failed on all cars which caused constant power to be sent to the solenoids 
on each door, in-turn destroying them too.  For now you can just unplug the 
unit and decide if you want to fix it yourself, buy an upgraded module, or 
just rid of the whole electric locking system altogether, like I did.  If 
you look at the http://dmcnews.com site you'll find a bunch of articles on 
how to rid of the electrical problems that plague most Deloreans, as well as 
a lot of other good information.  You will also have to clean all of your 
ground connections, otherwise you will notice all sorts of odd electrical 
behavior including the battery not charging depending on where the weak 
connection is.  The best way I've found to track down electrical leaks is to 
connect an amp meter in series with the positive battery terminal and 
corresponding battery cable.  This will tell you how many amps are being 
pulled from the battery.  You then begin to pull fuses and when you notice a 
significant drop of draw from the battery then figure out what was powered 
by the fuse you just pulled and looked there for problems.  What type of 
alternator do you have?  If you have one of the original Duciellers then 
dump it and get a new one from one of the vendors, if it's the newer 
Motorola that the factory switched to mid-production then you're probably 
OK.  Using a trickle charger is fine, although I would steer away from using 
it with the battery hooked up to the car.  I've heard some of the cheaper 
units can cause damage to the electrical system when used in that fashion. 
What I did when I bought my car was buy a brand new battery and just left it 
disconnected until I got all of the electrical bugs worked out, it has been 
fine since.  You might want to consider just buying a new battery as the one 
in there could be shot from all of the discharges and will not hold much of 
a charge.

Also, while you're at the dmcnews site, add yourself to the owners 
directory.

Good Luck,
Todd Nelson
1561, Vermont
http://www.rit.edu/~tan5732


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "o0shoryuken0o" <dmc06976_at_dml_mail.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2005 7:33 AM
Subject: [DML] Newbie Owner - First Question



>> Hello everyone.
>>
>> I've been lurking here for quite some time as I've had an interest in
>> buying a DMC - finally bought one this month!
>>
>> There is so much that I have to learn but my first question is:
>>
>> What the heck is "Negative Earth"?  What about this vehicle's
>> electrical system gives it that classification?  One thing that the
>> owner made me aware of is that over time, the battery will lose its
>> charge.  After about two weeks I am starting to notice that.  It still
>> starts, but gradually it is losing it.
>>
>> I bought a charger, the "trickle" kind that will automatically shut
>> off when the battery is charged, but I don't want to F up my DMC by
>> doing something stupid.
>>
>> What is the proper method for charging a battery on a DMC?  Also, are
>> there any good walkthroughs or sites of interest that have to do with
>> the electrical system that would be good for a newbie like myself?  I
>> really want to learn more about the car and start checking stuff out
>> for myself.
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Bill
>> 06976 






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