Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2945
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:23 Oct 2005 00:17:28 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 13 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: luggage rack
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

2. Re: Strange acceleration problem ( For Rob Grady)
From: "dmc_5180" <dmc_5180_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. RE: Strange acceleration problem
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

4. Re: Re: luggage rack
From: lordshill_at_dml_aol.com

5. Re: New stereo system
From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>

6. Re: Steering Wheel Lock
From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>

7. RE: RE: Strange acceleration problem
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

8. Re: Strange acceleration problem
From: "Daniel" <dmcburn75_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Noise from fuel pump
From: "Daniel" <dmcburn75_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. Re: FRONT END creeking noise
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

11. Re: LV bound
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

12. RE: Back into the fray -
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

13. Re: Strange acceleration problem ( For Rob Grady)
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2005 15:43:07 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: luggage rack

The main problems with the luggage rack are:
1) It makes it harder to open the engine cover, you have to remove the
things from the luggage rack and the rack itself to open it to check
your oil or water.
2) You create a lot of wind resistance reducing your gas mileage.

The advantages are:
1) You can store ALOT of stuff on it. One owner I know uses a cargo
net and takes 2 big plastic storage boxes on it and they are heavy.
There is no security and it makes a big difference with his gas
mileage. It does not seem ot have any effect on the temperature of the
motor.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "lordshill1" <lordshill_at_dml_a...> wrote:

>>
>>    I have a luggage rack for my Delorean and I was wondering how 
>> practical it is.  I bought it with the idea of putting a suitcase on it 
>> when I go to Chicago this coming June, as the storage area in the D is 
>> very lacking.  When I looked at the instructions and then begain to 
>> wonder about the drilled holes, etc and thought it best to seek the 
>> wisdom of the seasoned D owners.  Does it have an effect on heat 
>> escaping from the engine compartment?  Thank you for your responses in 
>> advance.
>> 
>> Roy
>> 0893
>>









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2005 19:19:23 -0000
From: "dmc_5180" <dmc_5180_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Strange acceleration problem ( For Rob Grady)

Rob,

I too have a very similar experience when I Start my engine cold and then immediately try 
to take off at a quick pace without letting the car warm up for a minute.  As I get to a 
certain rpm under acceleration the engine will suddenly fall off and backfire pretty loud.  I 
let up on the accelerator a bit so it stops and continue at a less agressive pace. it usually 
only happens once when cold. it generally goes away a half mile further down the road.

I replaced my fuel filter 4-5 years ago and even then my fuel system was quite clean inside 
the tank.  I was in their this spring and everything was quite good. I could understand  
changing the filter if you went into the tank found rust and disintragated rubber 
everywhere.  But mine is clean. I won't rule out changing it, but I would like to know what 
the other things are I should look for the other 40% of the time.

One thing I should also point out is that I have  the Houston exhaust which does not have 
provisions for the heat riser duct . I just have the pipe tucked loosely on top of the right 
header so it can draw in any heat heat generated in the area. 

Other than this, the car runs perfectly. It always starts instantly and idles smooth _at_dml_ 775 
unless it is really cold say less than 50 degrees out then it might idle hunt a little for 3-4 
ups and downs before being constant.

On a diffenet note:

I have a friend who's car will not hot start, even if he just turned it off and goes to restart. 
Although it will restart if you do the CPR connector swap on the cold start valve. I was 
under the car a month ago and did a test where we ran the car with the  small return line 
running into a jar to see if the accumulator was bad.  After the initial start-up 
pressurization of the system, which of coarse pushed fuel out of the spring side of the 
accumulator, the flow almost stopped but did continue to drip albeit very slowly  but was 
constant. I just can't imagine that this would make the car not restart after shutting it off 5 
seconds earlier. He has replaced the fuel pump and the O-rings in the fuel distibutor. The 
only thing left is the accumulator ,which he has, but hasn't gotten around to changing yet. 
Are their any other possilities? 

 He also has cold weather hesitation although it is much different than my symptoms. His 
car will stumble slightly when  when accelerating say for the first 10 minutes after the car 
has been started cold. it feels more like a mis in the engine than an all out lean situation 
he's done an ignition tune up with no change. He runs a can of B-12 thru it every few 
months, with no change. I even swapped my CPR for his to try see if that might be the 
problem. no change their either accept he thought the car didn't accelerate as well with my 
unit than his. so we switched them back, and his car ran fine again. My car runs fine with 
my CPR so I'm not sure what the deal is their either.Many times he has to depress the 
accelerator half way to the floor and then it will eventually start. His car has been that way 
since he's owned it (5 years) it almost acts like it's flooded. On the other hand my car 
always starts immediatley by just turning the key. We have been chasing this mystery quite 
some time now.

Rob, any suggestions would grately appreciated. 

  Dennis 


 
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, <rob_at_dml_p...> wrote:

>>
>> Dan,
>> 
>> Before you try to trouble shoot the fuel injection I would suggest changing
>> the fuel filter. That corrects the symptoms you describe more than half of
>> the time. Do you know when it was last changed? A bad CPR won't allow you to
>> accelerate at all for a few minutes with a cold engine so I doubt it's that.
>> 
>> 
>> Rob Grady
>> 
>> P.J.Grady Inc.
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
>> Daniel
>> Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2005 4:43 PM
>> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>> Subject: [DML] Strange acceleration problem
>> 
>> Here is something ponder over. When I start my car after sitting for
>> the night it starts up fine. When I give it gas to get out of my
>> driveway and up the street, I notice I lose acceleration. I then here
>> a slight backfire in about 3-4 quicks pops. After this the car runs
>> fine and I don't get it again until the next day after sitting
>> overnight. Any thoughts on the cause of this? Thanks!
>> 
>> -Dan
>>








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2005 15:38:38 EDT
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: RE: Strange acceleration problem

 
 
Can someone explain to me how a bad fuel filter can cause hesitation and  
back firing only when the engine is cold? 


 
Thanks,
 
Dē & 6530

Dan,

Before you try to trouble shoot the fuel injection I would  suggest changing
the fuel filter. That corrects the symptoms you describe  more than half of
the time. Do you know when it was last changed? A bad CPR  won't allow you to
accelerate at all for a few minutes with a cold engine so  I doubt it's that.

Here is something ponder over. When I start my car  after sitting for
the night it starts up fine. When I give it gas to get out  of my
driveway and up the street, I notice I lose acceleration. I then  here
a slight backfire in about 3-4 quicks pops. After this the car  runs
fine and I don't get it again until the next day after  sitting
overnight. Any thoughts on the cause of this?  Thanks!







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2005 16:18:00 EDT
From: lordshill_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: luggage rack

To all... Many thanks for all the information on the luggage rack.  I  really 
appreciate the various comments.  I will be using it to go to  Chicago in 
June.  Thanks again.
 
Roy
0893


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2005 15:54:13 -0500
From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>
Subject: Re: New stereo system


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <ComposerZelgadis_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, October 17, 2005 10:58 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] New stereo system



>>>> If you really like the sound of your home stereo set, you're going to 
>>>> have
>
>> to spend some real money to copy that sound over to your DeLorean (you can
>> quite  easily run up your $1k budget).  If you're really a nutball like I 
>> am, you
>> may also take a few avenues to reduce the level of sound the DeLorean 
>> itself
>> produces (wind noise, engine noise, etc etc). Dynamat (it is Dynamat, 
>> right?)
>> is  a popular choice.  And there's always new seals and what not.
>>
>> Hope this helps.
>>
>> Regards,
>> William F.
>> #1366
>>

Thanks for the info William.  I have a Sony Cd player in my car already 
(like you, not sure of the model #) put in by the PO.  It still works ok. I 
just thought I should upgrade since I have the interior semi gutted.  I 
definetly need new speakers, (old ones in dash rotted out) and a sub woofer.

Lingo #2034 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2005 15:58:41 -0500
From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel Lock


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 20, 2005 2:19 PM
Subject: [DML] Steering Wheel Lock



>> I'm at work and had to run to the bank.  Went outside and got into my
>> DeLorean, put the key into the ignition and tried to turn it.  okay,
>> this has happened before.  Usually I'll turn the wheel a tad bit and
>> then the key and the wheel will unlock.  Not this time.  I tried
>> turning it every direction.  No luck.  I'm stuck at work cause my
>> steering wheel won't unlock allowing me to start the car.
>>
>> What do I do?
>>
>> Matt
>> VIN: 2953
>> I love work so much so I got stuck here!
>>
>>
>>

Almost identical story with my ignition lock.  Only difference is my key 
won't turn even if the steering wheel isn't locked.  Sometimes the key turns 
fine, other times I have to jam it in a few times before it will turn. 
Somedays it gives no problem at all.  I thought maybe my key was worn and 
not engageing all the tumblers in the ignition.  However the key looks to be 
fine.  I don't know what the problem is.

Lingo #2034 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2005 16:00:29 -0500
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RE: Strange acceleration problem

Sure...

Because a cold engine requires a richer mixture than a warm engine. That's 
because when the engine is cold, fuel drawn into the cylinder condenses on 
the cylinder walls, effectively leaning out the mixture. That's why the 
warmup regulator enriches the mixture when the engine is cold and partly why 
you have a cold start valve.

Anyway, if we assume that the fuel filter is partially clogged your car 
would be running leaner due to impared fuel delivery. It would possibly run 
okay when warm, but since the car NEEDS a richer mixture when cold, and 
can't get it due to the clogged filter, the filter coiuld cause symptoms 
only when cold. If it gets progressivley worse, eventually it would cause 
problems even when the engine is warm.

-Joe Kuchan



>>From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
>>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: [DML] RE: Strange acceleration problem
>>Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2005 15:38:38 EDT
>>
>>
>>
>>Can someone explain to me how a bad fuel filter can cause hesitation and
>>back firing only when the engine is cold?
>>
>>
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Dē & 6530
>>
>>Dan,
>>
>>Before you try to trouble shoot the fuel injection I would  suggest 
>>changing
>>the fuel filter. That corrects the symptoms you describe  more than half of
>>the time. Do you know when it was last changed? A bad CPR  won't allow you 
>>to
>>accelerate at all for a few minutes with a cold engine so  I doubt it's 
>>that.
>>
>>Here is something ponder over. When I start my car  after sitting for
>>the night it starts up fine. When I give it gas to get out  of my
>>driveway and up the street, I notice I lose acceleration. I then  here
>>a slight backfire in about 3-4 quicks pops. After this the car  runs
>>fine and I don't get it again until the next day after  sitting
>>overnight. Any thoughts on the cause of this?  Thanks!





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2005 21:03:03 -0000
From: "Daniel" <dmcburn75_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Strange acceleration problem

My fuel filter was replaced in August. About 2 months ago I was having
a problem where the car wouldnt start when cold. It took many atempts
to finally start. Dave Delman helped me with this problem locating a
faulty electrical connection on the cold start valve. That seemed to
correct the problem but I now get this backfiring. I'm thinking the
cold start valve is going bad? 

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, doctorDHD_at_dml_a... wrote:

>>
>>  
>>  
>> Can someone explain to me how a bad fuel filter can cause hesitation

and  

>> back firing only when the engine is cold? 
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> Thanks,
>>  
>> Dē & 6530
>> 
>> Dan,
>> 
>> Before you try to trouble shoot the fuel injection I would  suggest

changing

>> the fuel filter. That corrects the symptoms you describe  more than

half of

>> the time. Do you know when it was last changed? A bad CPR  won't

allow you to

>> accelerate at all for a few minutes with a cold engine so  I doubt

it's that.

>> 
>> Here is something ponder over. When I start my car  after sitting for
>> the night it starts up fine. When I give it gas to get out  of my
>> driveway and up the street, I notice I lose acceleration. I then  here
>> a slight backfire in about 3-4 quicks pops. After this the car  runs
>> fine and I don't get it again until the next day after  sitting
>> overnight. Any thoughts on the cause of this?  Thanks!
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2005 21:27:33 -0000
From: "Daniel" <dmcburn75_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Noise from fuel pump

I notice that when I turn the ignition to position II before I start,
I hear a buzzing sound for about 3 seconds coming from the fuel pump.
Is this normal? Also should the pump make ANY noise? I notice a little
bit of a noise when the car is running and a put my ear to the access
panel. Jeez I hate being a newbie  ;-) 

-Dan







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2005 21:49:51 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: FRONT END creeking noise

Since you had the service by DMCH and, before you do anything 
drastic, spray some silicone lubricant liberally onto and into the 
two rubber suspension joints securing the front control arm (some 
people call it the sway bar). They are right there in the front. 
Those things can get hard and squeak very loudly. This will cure it 
for a while. The best cure is to disassemble, install new ones and 
put some high-temp synthetic grease on them.

Harold McElraft - 3354




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Daniel" <dmcburn75_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>>
>> Today after resolving a few problems I was faced with another. I
>> noticed that when I would come to a stop at a stop sign or light I
>> would hear a Creek coming from the front end. My first thought was 

a

>> problem with the brakes. When I returned home I pushed down on the
>> hood at the front of the car. It made the same creek which sounded
>> like a really rusty door.  So prob safe to say its not the 

brakes.  It

>> also seems to be more prominent or coming entirely from the 

passenger

>> side. It is also heard not as loud when I turn the wheel. My car  

is a

>> low mile car having less than 4000 miles. I also believe I have the
>> original shocks and springs. It also had a 30,000mile major 

service 3

>> months ago by DMCH. Any idea as to what is going on here?? I'd
>> appreciate any help you could offer. Many thanks 
>> 
>> -Dan
>>









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2005 16:58:54 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: LV bound

We are going to be in LV for the SEMA conference.  Any other DeLorean 
owners going to be in town?

I know the Arizona people are coming up the weekend before.  Anyone 
staying over for SEMA?

Bob and Gail Brandys







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2005 18:02:15 -0400
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: RE: Back into the fray -

Hi Don,

I can answer only two of your questions but I'll address them all.

1) I have no info on this car.

2) I know of some local D's for sale and have several available at my shop
now. I have a near perfect 83 5spd (with the rare black and light grey
interior used on a very few late VIN# cars) with a one year warranty as well
as several privately owned cars at lower prices. Why don't you give us a
call?

3) It costs $5223.75 for a complete motor or $3500.00 for a short block not
including freight and installation.

4) I wish I knew its whereabouts as we sold the car brand new to the
previous owner in 1981 and did most of the service to it until he sold it to
you a few years ago. I hate to see one of my "babies" get lost!

Let me add that it is ALWAYS cheaper to buy a properly maintained or
restored Delorean than to buy a fixer-upper unless you are a mechanic and
can do all the work yourself. Labor accounts for about half of a restoration
job so you could save money, but lose (your valuable?) time, that way. I am
continually amazed at the amount of seemingly intelligent people that choose
to buy a DeLorean "blind" even after consulting with a DeLorean vender. They
think they will save money by avoiding the "middleman" but don't realize
that unless they are a very good mechanic then they'll be dealing with one
anyway in the form of expensive parts and service! I always advise potential
owners to save their money until they can buy one that is in good shape but
surprisingly few listen but hey...what can you do. "You can lead a horse to
water but"....you know the rest. 

Sincerely,

Rob Grady

P.J.Grady Inc.

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
dkazmark
Sent: Friday, October 21, 2005 12:47 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Back into the fray -

Hello All, 

Its nice to see alot of familiar names on the list that still have 
their cars. I've been out of the delorean world for about 5 years 
(sold mine to pay for my bachelors and finish school) and i am 
thinking about jumping back into delorean ownership (i must be 
crazy). I've coninually been seeing lower grade cars going for big 
bucks, and am wondering if the restoration experience is something 
that I'd like to undertake. I wouldn't even attempt it if i didn't 
live right down the street from PJ Grady's so im in a unique 
situation. A few questions.....

#1 - Does anybody on the list have any info on the Ebay car with the 
non-working engine? It seems to be in decent shape yet it lingers on 
the site with no takers. 

#2 - Is there any owners on Long Island that know of any cars for 
sale locally? 

#3 What does a crate engine run these days from any of the suppliers?

#4 Does anyone know how vin#3541 is doing out there? Never heard 
from the new owner and was wondering if shes still out there

Thanks all, 
-Donald Kazmark - former owner of #3541 new vin?




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2005 22:30:14 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Strange acceleration problem ( For Rob Grady)

I am really surprised that no one seems focused on the delay valve 
that is THE functioning piece for cold acceleration. If that delay 
valve is out of spec you will have cold engine hesitation. I have 
had three DeLoreans and two failed. I have used a white cap delay 
valve as a replacement - my preference, as it has been closer to 
specs than OEM. Solved my hesitation problems instantly.

Harold McElraft - 3354


 
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmc_5180" <dmc_5180_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>>
>> Rob,
>> 
>> I too have a very similar experience when I Start my engine cold 

and then immediately try 

>> to take off at a quick pace without letting the car warm up for a 

minute.  As I get to a 

>> certain rpm under acceleration the engine will suddenly fall off 

and backfire pretty loud.  I 

>> let up on the accelerator a bit so it stops and continue at a less 

agressive pace. it usually 

>> only happens once when cold. it generally goes away a half mile 

further down the road.

>> 
>> I replaced my fuel filter 4-5 years ago and even then my fuel 

system was quite clean inside 

>> the tank.  I was in their this spring and everything was quite 

good. I could understand  

>> changing the filter if you went into the tank found rust and 

disintragated rubber 

>> everywhere.  But mine is clean. I won't rule out changing it, but 

I would like to know what 

>> the other things are I should look for the other 40% of the time.
>> 
>> One thing I should also point out is that I have  the Houston 

exhaust which does not have 

>> provisions for the heat riser duct . I just have the pipe tucked 

loosely on top of the right 

>> header so it can draw in any heat heat generated in the area. 
>> 
>> Other than this, the car runs perfectly. It always starts 

instantly and idles smooth _at_dml_ 775 

>> unless it is really cold say less than 50 degrees out then it 

might idle hunt a little for 3-4 

>> ups and downs before being constant.
>> 
>> On a diffenet note:
>> 
>> I have a friend who's car will not hot start, even if he just 

turned it off and goes to restart. 

>> Although it will restart if you do the CPR connector swap on the 

cold start valve. I was 

>> under the car a month ago and did a test where we ran the car with 

the  small return line 

>> running into a jar to see if the accumulator was bad.  After the 

initial start-up 

>> pressurization of the system, which of coarse pushed fuel out of 

the spring side of the 

>> accumulator, the flow almost stopped but did continue to drip 

albeit very slowly  but was 

>> constant. I just can't imagine that this would make the car not 

restart after shutting it off 5 

>> seconds earlier. He has replaced the fuel pump and the O-rings in 

the fuel distibutor. The 

>> only thing left is the accumulator ,which he has, but hasn't 

gotten around to changing yet. 

>> Are their any other possilities? 
>> 
>>  He also has cold weather hesitation although it is much different 

than my symptoms. His 

>> car will stumble slightly when  when accelerating say for the 

first 10 minutes after the car 

>> has been started cold. it feels more like a mis in the engine than 

an all out lean situation 

>> he's done an ignition tune up with no change. He runs a can of B-

12 thru it every few 

>> months, with no change. I even swapped my CPR for his to try see 

if that might be the 

>> problem. no change their either accept he thought the car didn't 

accelerate as well with my 

>> unit than his. so we switched them back, and his car ran fine 

again. My car runs fine with 

>> my CPR so I'm not sure what the deal is their either.Many times he 

has to depress the 

>> accelerator half way to the floor and then it will eventually 

start. His car has been that way 

>> since he's owned it (5 years) it almost acts like it's flooded. On 

the other hand my car 

>> always starts immediatley by just turning the key. We have been 

chasing this mystery quite 

>> some time now.
>> 
>> Rob, any suggestions would grately appreciated. 
>> 
>>   Dennis 
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, <rob_at_dml_p...> wrote:
>
>>> >
>>> > Dan,
>>> > 
>>> > Before you try to trouble shoot the fuel injection I would 

suggest changing

>>> > the fuel filter. That corrects the symptoms you describe more 

than half of

>>> > the time. Do you know when it was last changed? A bad CPR won't 

allow you to

>>> > accelerate at all for a few minutes with a cold engine so I 

doubt it's that.

>>> > 
>>> > 
>>> > Rob Grady
>>> > 
>>> > P.J.Grady Inc.
>>> > 
>>> > -----Original Message-----
>>> > From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] 

On Behalf Of

>>> > Daniel
>>> > Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2005 4:43 PM
>>> > To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>> > Subject: [DML] Strange acceleration problem
>>> > 
>>> > Here is something ponder over. When I start my car after sitting 

for

>>> > the night it starts up fine. When I give it gas to get out of my
>>> > driveway and up the street, I notice I lose acceleration. I then 

here

>>> > a slight backfire in about 3-4 quicks pops. After this the car 

runs

>>> > fine and I don't get it again until the next day after sitting
>>> > overnight. Any thoughts on the cause of this? Thanks!
>>> > 
>>> > -Dan
>>> >
>
>>









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
    dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 
------------------------------------------------------------------------