Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2953
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:26 Oct 2005 22:18:47 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 14 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Re: Tyres Tyres Tyres as they spell it
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>

2. Re: Wheel options
From: "Jack Stiefel" <jackstiefel_at_dml_stiefelaluminum.com>

3. AC Question - 3 of them with a little surrounding information.
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. Re: Halloween Foolishness: Is your D haunted?
From: "S" <theborderisopen_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Re: AC Question - 3 of them with a little surrounding information.
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

6. Re: AC Question - 3 of them with a little surrounding information.
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>

7. Re: Delorean with a Futuro!...A home of the future.
From: Jonathan Minor <malletslinger_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. Re: Wheel options
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

9. Re: Won't start in the rain
From: "howardeskinjr" <howardeskinjr_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. Re: AC Question - 3 of them with a little surrounding information.
From: "Qume Fox" <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>

11. Re: Minimum rotor thickness?
From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>

12. Re: AC Question - 3 of them with a little surrounding information.
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>

13. Re: Tyres Tyres Tyres as they spell it
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

14. Re: AC Question - 3 of them with a little surrounding information.
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2005 10:38:06 -0700
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Tyres Tyres Tyres as they spell it

Both these tires are available through my local Sams Club, and I need
tires soon too,  reading up on the web the Goodrich tires have really
high ratings from users, so that's my plan...

Tom
10902 

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of Qumefox
Sent: Tuesday, October 25, 2005 7:09 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Tyres Tyres Tyres as they spell it

coreysmoo wrote:


>>I have a set of BF Goodrich's on the rear end of my car.  They work out


>>well.  The Goodrich's are wider, so they give the car, in my opinion, a


>>nice mean looking stance if you look at it from the rear.  I got some 
>>Yokohama's on the front end that fit really nice too.  I replaced all 4


>>tires in March and it ran me roughly $400 for the 2 Goodrich's and the 
>>2 Yokohama's.  I don't know if that helped...  But I like the BF

Goodrich's.

>>
>>Corey
>>2423
>>

[moderator snip]




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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2005 13:37:55 -0400
From: "Jack Stiefel" <jackstiefel_at_dml_stiefelaluminum.com>
Subject: Re: Wheel options

Hey John looks like Keystone operations.  Is that who you are using?  I
do a lot with them.  
Jack Stiefel - Tampa, Fl
--------------------------
Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tue Oct 25 22:36:12 2005
Subject: RE: [DML] Wheel options

I don't think they could do that, but with the CNC, lathe and other
equipment I'm not for sure what all they can do.
John

 

[moderator snip]




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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2005 16:12:55 -0000
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: AC Question - 3 of them with a little surrounding information.

First and formost, I want to appologize for starting the Zilla 
versus others conversation... Did not want to open up sore wounds.

I know there have been alot of posts about Air Conditioning as we 
have just finished up with the summer. I did not find the answer in 
the old messages about my first problem and description.

Unfortunately where I live, it is still rather warm here, and during 
the day, AC is still needed (These cars seem to really attract the 
heat)

Here are my problems - I've only had the car for 2 months.
1. The AC Turns on, and seems to blow a cool puff of air when it 
initializes. However longer than 1 minute, and it is the same as the 
outside temperature, so it had might as well not be on.

I initially thought that i was low on R-12, so I was going to simply 
flush out the R-12, drain the mineral oil, and fill it all with R-
134 and the necessary oil required (forget what it is called off-
hand as I type this).

I still have R-12 in the system. I hooked up a pressure monitor to 
the low and high valves off the compressor in the engine bay, and 
both sides registered about 22psi (Engine was not running)
I do know that if you want to run R-134, it should be higher, but it 
was in the correct range for the R-134, therefor, I am assuming that 
the pressure for the R-12 is OK. 

In reading other posts, I would venture to guess that the switches 
low and high pressure are shot, or do i need a higher PSI for the R-
12. (I am happy to see that I am not losing the charge that I have) 
Since I do not know the correct standing pressure for R-12, I am 
asking this question.

When the car is running, both the cooling fans seem to be running, 
and the engine temperature is pretty low (i was amazed at how cool 
the car ran without the AC on)

2. When the AC is running (ie switched on through the console), 
coming out of the vents smells like exhaust. I find this one very 
strange. As I understand air conditioning, it should be pulling air 
from the outside. I do know of one hole that does not seem to be 
sealed correctly between the engine compartment and that is for the 
wiring coming off of the light switch when you open the engine 
compartment lid, the grommet is there but does not stay in. 

Could it be that the duct work is really dirty, and needs to be 
cleaned. The passenger blower fan motor (when on actually sounds 
like a cricket) is shot and burning out? When it comes to automotive 
AC, i am really in the dark. Or am I actually getting exhaust in 
from the engine compartment, and the AC is simply recirculating it?

I just replaced the rear window seal thinking that was the culprit 
for the smell when the AC is on. 

Emission tested the vehicle, it passed with flying colours... 

3. Stupid question, which valve on ac compressor is the high, and 
which is the low. I have vin 003372. Looking at the AC compressor 
from the rear of the car, they are right beside each other, with the 
same size fittings. One is left, and one is about 2 inches away to 
the direct right. I have seen the picture of the R-134 valve 
conversion on the specialtauto.com site, and it would appear that 
the low is on the left, but I would like confirmation. 

4. Is there another fuse that just may be shot (other than the 
possible 2 pressure switches)?

Thank you
      Sean - 003372









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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2005 18:07:51 -0000
From: "S" <theborderisopen_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Halloween Foolishness: Is your D haunted?

You got some help from the great beyond.  GTO's might also start 
fixing themselves.  Vegas, however, will continue to be junk.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_h...> 
wrote:

>>
>> Bernie told me my D' may be haunted.  So I'll tell what happened.  

Last 

>> Thursday, the steering wheel lock on my DeLorean jammed up and I 
>> couldn't unlock it with the key, wiggling the wheel or anything.  

I had 

>> to be taken home on a roll back.  The next night, I was very 

tired, but 

>> I was determined to get my wheel unlocked.  I was sitting in the 

car in 

>> my garage yanking on the wheel, pushing on it and wiggling it.  

Nothing 

>> worked.  I was so tired, I was ready to fall asleep in the car.  

My 

>> left hand slipped off the wheel and my head tilted back, but my 

right 

>> hand was stil on the key.  I was giving up.  Next thing I 

remember, I 

>> hear a click and a buzz (fuel pump).  I looked up and all me 

gauges 

>> were on, the fuel pump was running and the wheel was unlocked.  

Freaky?

>> 
>> Matt
>> VIN: 2953
>> 

[moderator snip]




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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2005 18:23:49 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: AC Question - 3 of them with a little surrounding information.

Cutting through all your explantion, if your refrigerent pressure
without the motor running (rest pressure) is 22 you are low on
refrigerent. That puff of cold air is the compressor running for just
a moment and then shutting down on the low pressure switch. The thing
to do is to go to a shop and have the system tested for leaks,
repaired, flushed, vacumed and them refilled with fresh oil and
refrigerent. They should change the valve cores in the access ports,
and the dryer if the system is contaminated. You should insist they
refill with R-12 but there are other drop-in replacements available.
Try not to get talked into R-134. If the car sat a long time it might
just be that the seal on the compressor dried out and leaked. It will
be fine if you use it once in a while. The other common source of
leaks is the larger hose (discharge hose) that comes off the back of
the compressor and runs foward to the condensor coil. It is good
insurance to just replace it at the time of service so you don't lose
your refigerent again. Do not run the A/C at these pressures, you will
suck in contamination and damage things. Especially if the low
pressure switch is not working or is jumped out and the compressor is
running with the suction pressure going negative.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>>
>> First and formost, I want to appologize for starting the Zilla 
>> versus others conversation... Did not want to open up sore wounds.
>> 
>> I know there have been alot of posts about Air Conditioning as we 
>> have just finished up with the summer. I did not find the answer in 
>> the old messages about my first problem and description.
>> 
>> Unfortunately where I live, it is still rather warm here, and during 
>> the day, AC is still needed (These cars seem to really attract the 
>> heat)
>> 
>> 








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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2005 13:28:50 -0500
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: AC Question - 3 of them with a little surrounding information.

1. We need to know the pressures when the engine is running and the 
compressor engaged.
2. Be sure the heat is turned off.  Check all the way back to the hot 
water valve.
3. Select Max Cool.  This should close the fresh air door and block out 
air from outside the car.
4. The low side (cycling) switch is on the accumulator.  The high side 
switch will be with the pop-off valve on a block in the liquid line or 
connected to the discharge of the condensor.
Warren at DMC


seanhagan wrote:

>> First and formost, I want to appologize for starting the Zilla 
>> versus others conversation... Did not want to open up sore wounds.
>> 
>> I know there have been alot of posts about Air Conditioning as we 
>> have just finished up with the summer. I did not find the answer in 
>> the old messages about my first problem and description.
>> 
>> Unfortunately where I live, it is still rather warm here, and during 
>> the day, AC is still needed (These cars seem to really attract the 
>> heat)
>> 
>> Here are my problems - I've only had the car for 2 months.

[moderator snip]





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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2005 11:12:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jonathan Minor <malletslinger_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Delorean with a Futuro!...A home of the future.

Cool pics...thanks Jeremy

--- Jeremy Popp <trentjus_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:


>> Hello all. 
>> I thought everybody might enjoy these pictures. 
>>

http://groups.msn.com/DMCPhotos/deloreanwithafuturo.msnw

>> 
>> 
>> My D is parked next to a Futuro... a modular home of
>> the future. There 
>> are only around 50 in exsistance and this person
>> owns 2 connected 
>> together. Unfortunatly, its not made from stainless
>> steel, but 
>> fiberglass. The owner just finished painting it.
>> They were built in the 
>> late 60's.... well you can find out more here: 
>> http://futuro-house.net/ 
>> 

[moderator snip]




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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2005 18:16:49 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: Wheel options

John,

Since your website mentioned CNC and custom work, can you look
into making DeLorean replica wheels (same style) in 16" and 17"
sizes (as a set) to replace the 14" and 15" sizes, same offsets.
I know replacement wheels like this are a dream for many owners.

A few people looked into this over the past five or six years,
but I never heard any pricing details except very vague numbers.

Thanks,
Rich W.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:

>>
>> Charles, I'm supposed to pick up a set of wheels tomorrow that are 

like new.

>> Were now in the wheel business. Fixem up and what ever. Take a 

look towards

>> the bottom of the page.
>> John Hervey
>> http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/frame-body.html
>> 
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On 

Behalf Of

>> Charles Major
>> Sent: Tuesday, October 25, 2005 9:45 AM
>> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>> Subject: [DML] Wheel options
>> 
>> 
>> Can the wheel be chromed, gold plated, powder coated, painted? If 

so who 

>> does which? And can they have an orginal coating?
>> 









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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2005 18:35:59 -0000
From: "howardeskinjr" <howardeskinjr_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Won't start in the rain

Nope.  I have only owned the car since 6/05 though.  I usually drive 
it 2-3 times a month and haven't had this problem before. 
I've had the engine hot and restarted fine.
 --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Joey Morgan <jlm1701music_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:

>>
>> 
>> Have you had this problem when its not raining? Sounds
>> like a hot start issue (fuel accumulator)
>> 
>> Joey
>> #6297
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 

[moderator snip]




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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2005 18:42:52 -0000
From: "Qume Fox" <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>
Subject: Re: AC Question - 3 of them with a little surrounding information.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
 

>> Here are my problems - I've only had the car for 2 months.
>> 1. The AC Turns on, and seems to blow a cool puff of air when it 
>> initializes. However longer than 1 minute, and it is the same as the 
>> outside temperature, so it had might as well not be on.


If it starts out cold then goes to outside temp then my guess is you have 
a vacuum issue somewhere allowing the door that controls where the 
air is flowing to and from to open letting the fan either pull air from 
outside instead of through the condenser (or evaporator.. i allways 
forget which is which. the one inside the car) or it's allowing heater air 
to mix with the AC thus negating any cooling effects as well.  Another 
possibility could be the condenser is freezing up and not letting air flow 
through it, but 1 minute seems alittle fast for that to happen to me. 


>> I initially thought that i was low on R-12, so I was going to simply 
>> flush out the R-12, drain the mineral oil, and fill it all with R-
>> 134 and the necessary oil required (forget what it is called off-
>> hand as I type this).


If you switch to 134a you should at minimum change the accumulator as 
well. It's full of dessicant and there's no way of purging it of the mineral 
oil. 


>> I still have R-12 in the system. I hooked up a pressure monitor to 
>> the low and high valves off the compressor in the engine bay, and 
>> both sides registered about 22psi (Engine was not running)
>> I do know that if you want to run R-134, it should be higher, but it 
>> was in the correct range for the R-134, therefor, I am assuming that 
>> the pressure for the R-12 is OK. 
>>
>> Thank you
>>       Sean - 003372



Rest pressure isn't really that important. It mainly just tells you there's 
freon in the system. The pressures with the engine running and the AC 
on are what tell you how the system is operating. You need to check 
these to see if the AC is still actually working even if it's not blowing cold 
air. This will help determine if you have an AC system problem, or 
simply a vacuum or ducting problem up front. Also see if the compressor 
cycles like it should or if it just runs constantly. 

Chris
VIN# 3209
http://badger.brazi.net/index.pl/delorean








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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2005 14:05:06 -0500
From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Minimum rotor thickness?

I knew there was a seven in there somewhere.  :-)   The 12 was covered up with 
rust I guess.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kevin Milliken" <kevin.milliken_at_dml_btinternet.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2005 5:53 AM
Subject: RE: [DML] Minimum rotor thickness?



>> Hi Lingo
>>
>> The size is 12.7mm it is printed on the edge and the workshop should see
>> this and
>> not machine them past thickness.
>>
>> Regards
>>
>>
>> Kevin
>>

[moderator snip]




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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2005 19:35:53 -0000
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: AC Question - 3 of them with a little surrounding information.

  As I was driving to pick up my lunch (mmm... corn dogs) I remembered 
one more thing that you need to do to convert to 134 like that.  
Evacuate.  Basically you need to pull as much of a vacuum inside your 
A/C system as you can.  Service shops that do A/C work will have the 
correct pump.  I don't know how much luck you'll have getting them to 
evacuate it for you though, you might be able to trade what's left of 
your 12 for part of the cost.  Or just getting them to do it at all.
  What you need to do is recover what's left of the 12, put on the 134 
adapters, evacuate (preferably with the engine warm) for at least an 
hour.  That makes sure that you get all the residual 12 out.
Again, this is not how you're supposed to convert to 134, so proceed at 
your own risk.

Matt


>> 
>> I initially thought that i was low on R-12, so I was going to simply 
>> flush out the R-12, drain the mineral oil, and fill it all with R-
>> 134 and the necessary oil required (forget what it is called off-
>> hand as I type this).
>> 
>> I still have R-12 in the system. I hooked up a pressure monitor to 
>> the low and high valves off the compressor in the engine bay, and 
>> both sides registered about 22psi (Engine was not running)
>> I do know that if you want to run R-134, it should be higher, but it 
>> was in the correct range for the R-134, therefor, I am assuming that 
>> the pressure for the R-12 is OK. 









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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2005 12:38:41 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Tyres Tyres Tyres as they spell it

On 10/24/05, Shain Brannan <dsmguy_at_dml_ptd.net> wrote:

>> Hey Guys,
>>
>> Well my 23 year old and the rears have worn out.  I recently purchased
>> some new powder coated rims from Rob Grady, which for lack of a better
>> word looks great.  So i went to tirerack and they have listed 2 tires
>> that fit my car.  Dunlop qualifiers and some version of BF Goodrich
>> T/A.  The price is negligable,  and i cannot deceid what to pick.  I
>> am almost hesitant to ask,  but any suggestions?


Michelin Pilots. I love mine.

--
- Ryan
http://www.memfrag.com - Store your bookmarks. On every computer.


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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2005 19:11:36 -0000
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: AC Question - 3 of them with a little surrounding information.

  Here's a few bits of information that hopefully will help.
(disclaimer, this isn't how you're supposed to convert to 134)
  That said, it's exactly what I did to convert my D.  It has only 
been a few months so I'm still waiting to see the long term success.  
Sometimes the hoses won't hold the 134, as the molecules are actually 
smaller and can permeate hoses and seals that the 12 did not.

  22psi at rest tells me that the system is undercharged.  However to 
get a real idea of the operation hook up your gauges and start the 
engine and turn on your A/C.  You should see the low side drop to 10-
20psi (roughly) and the high side climb to 150-200psi (rough).  Not 
that ambient temperature and engine compartment tem can affect 
pressures.  Ambient mostly affects rest pressure.  Again, unless it 
is very cold when you checked, you have an undercharged system.

  About the exhaust smell -- I have no idea.  The HVAC (heating, 
ventilation, air conditioning) system brings in fresh air from a vent 
near the windshield wipers on all settings except MAX, then it opens 
a vent near the passengers feet to draw air from inside the car.

  And for your last question, which is not as stupid as you seem to 
think, the low side valve is on the driver's side of the compressor.  
Or, the leftmost of the two valves as you stand looking at the engine.

  I'm an ASE certified tech, which is what I do for a living (work on 
cars) just in case you wonder where I pulled this from  :) 

Hope it helps,
Matt

  

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>> I initially thought that i was low on R-12, so I was going to 

simply 

>> flush out the R-12, drain the mineral oil, and fill it all with R-
>> 134 and the necessary oil required (forget what it is called off-
>> hand as I type this).
>> 
>> I still have R-12 in the system. I hooked up a pressure monitor to 
>> the low and high valves off the compressor in the engine bay, and 
>> both sides registered about 22psi (Engine was not running)
>> I do know that if you want to run R-134, it should be higher, but 

it 

>> was in the correct range for the R-134, therefor, I am assuming 

that 

>> the pressure for the R-12 is OK. 
>> 

[moderator snip]




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