Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2955
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:27 Oct 2005 23:21:04 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 21 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: AC Question - 3 of them with a little surrounding information.
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. Fans - the final word
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

3. Re: Re: AC Question - 3 of them with a little surrounding information.
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

4. Re: Misc questions
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Re: Misc questions
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

6. Used Deloreans for Sale
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

7. Re: Misc questions
From: "Mike Bosworth" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>

8. Re: Owner's map update
From: "Mike Bosworth" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>

9. Re: Re: Misc questions
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

10. Re: AC Question - 3 of them with a little surrounding information.
From: "M. P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>

11. Re: (Whoops)Re: AC Question - 3 of them with a little surrounding information.
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

12. Re: AC Question - 3 of them with a little surrounding information.
From: "Qume Fox" <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>

13. www.newdelorean.com??????
From: "ashtonorlan" <ashtonorlan_at_dml_yahoo.com>

14. Flex Wheel
From: "stefandmc" <stefandmc_at_dml_yahoo.ca>

15. RE: Re: AC Question - 3 of them with a little surrounding information.
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

16. Re: Re: AC Question - 3 of them with a little surrounding information.
From: Jason Ferrara <jason_at_dml_discordia.org>

17. Re: Owner's map update
From: "brandelorean" <brandelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. Freeze 12
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>

19. Re: Misc questions
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. Re: Joe LoRe
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. Cold running problem and battery
From: "Daniel" <dmcburn75_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2005 15:35:36 -0000
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: AC Question - 3 of them with a little surrounding information.

Found where the air goes in, and max cool does not stop the air from 
going in there (it was right under the passenger side wiper, pretty 
easy to find  :-)  )


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_u...> 
wrote:

>>
>> 1. We need to know the pressures when the engine is running and 

the 

>> compressor engaged.
>> 2. Be sure the heat is turned off.  Check all the way back to the 

hot 

>> water valve.
>> 3. Select Max Cool.  This should close the fresh air door and 

block out 

>> air from outside the car.
>> 4. The low side (cycling) switch is on the accumulator.  The high 

side 

>> switch will be with the pop-off valve on a block in the liquid 

line or 

>> connected to the discharge of the condensor.
>> Warren at DMC
>> 
>> 

[moderator snip]




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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2005 15:48:01 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Fans - the final word

Hi All

Something I hope everyone will find interesting if not useful. The cause 
of all the fuss

http://www.delorean.co.uk/fanfail.html

Martin
DMC :Ltd





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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2005 07:42:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Re: AC Question - 3 of them with a little surrounding information.

 
If your pressures are at 20 on both sides when the engine is running, you defiantly are low on freon.  Worst case is that your compressor is shot and bleeding over.
 
The Freeze 12 will work fine, but don't add it to your system without completely evacuating and vacuuming the system for at least an hour.  Then check if it holds vacuum so you know you don't have any leaks.  THEN recharge.
 
I tried the Freeze 12 while I was troubleshooting another problem.  I didn't want to put my real R-12 in if I was going to have to evacuate it to change a part.  After putting the Freeze 12 in and verifying my system was functioning properly, I couldn't convince myself to replace it.  My center vent temperatures while running the Freeze 12 will dip below freezing at times while the engine is revved (as long as it's not 100 degrees outside).  That's good enough for me!
 
Also, clean your evaporator (details in the archives).
 
Jake Kamphoefner
1063


seanhagan <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
Ran the same check with my car running and the AC turned on max. 
Same pressure.

Does anyone know if the AC R-12 Substitute Freeze 12 found on the 
specialtauto.com site can be added to the regular freon that I 
already have running through the lines? Chances are, I am not going 
to get regular R-12 unless I take a treck down to Nogales.

If the substitute works, then I just may charge it up, and see how 
we do...

Thanks
Sean 

[moderator snip]




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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2005 15:23:37 -0000
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Misc questions

Man! What state do you live in that they force these inspections... 
Here in AZ all they check is that your vin matches (you should see 
some of the cars on the road here though).... But anyhow..

Your rotors are a simple install. The first thing (obviously) is to 
remove the wheels. From there you will need to remove the calipers 
off of the post that they are attached to (should be 2 bolts of some 
sort holding them on). 

Personally, if your pads are relatively low, you may want to 
consider replacing them too... To expand your caliper, you may be 
able to do it with your hands by pushing the pad back into/towards 
the caliper piston. On a cadillac i owned, I had to use a c-clamp to 
accomplish this... 

Once the caliper is off, the rotor just slides off of the 4 posts 
that your lug nuts screw onto. Put on the new rotor, Fit your 
caliper back over the rotor, put the bolts back on. Put the wheel 
back on, and you should be in business. 

Using the electronic locks? If so, to pass your inspection, you 
could simply disable them by unhooking a wire, and push the locks 
manually.

As for your steering column stuff, you can order a whole new set of 
wiper controls, hi-beam/horn arms from dmch and if I am not mistaken 
pjgrady. If that is they way you want to go. To replace this though, 
you are gonna have to pull the steering wheel off (you can get the 
tools for this from most autoparts store)
Have you tried cleaning the connections (they have an eraser looking 
thing that cleans up the metal connections that I have used on a 
trainset) Additionally, have you checked the reverse bulbs? are they 
burnt out? Have you also checked to make sure you have a current 
going to the bulbs. If your light board is hosed, a previous post 
from someone at the pjgrady site, stated that they are on sale right 
now. Please check the site for more details.

BTW jack stands are pretty much a must have. I have ramps, but have 
found that they can be a pain to use as on a completely flat surface 
they can slide across the floor.  


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "o0shoryuken0o" <dmc06976_at_dml_m...> 
wrote:

>>
>> Hey everyone!
>> 
>> There are many things that I want to do on my DeLorean, but first 

and

>> foremost are 4 issues that need correction just so I can pass
>> inspection and get registration.  I've already had the car 

inspected

>> and now I have 1 month to fix the problems before a reinspection.
>> 

[moderator snip]




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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2005 16:20:28 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Misc questions

If you are replacing the rotors replace the pads, they are too worn.
Replace the hardware too (the pins, anti-squeal shims, and
cotterpins). Replace the bearings if the old ones feel rough or are
loose. The rotors may be salavageable by cutting in a lathe.

The door locks are not usually an inspection issue. Disconect the
locking module. The top trim pulls off. The bottom one does too but
there are some bolts that have to be removed. The plastic pieces don't
always break but if they do you can either find them locally or order
them from a vender. Adjusting the linkage is a little complicated and
time consuming. Go slow and be careful of the sharp edges of the S/S
inside the doors. Make sure the locking anchor pins are properly
adjusted and everything is well lubricated BEFORE messing with the
insides of the doors. 

The headlights may just be a case of bad relays. Clean up all the
connections and replace the high and low relays.

If you don't have a jack and know how to use it safely go to a gas
station and they can put a new switch in. It won't cost much and is
MUCH safer. Cheaper than getting squashed by your car. In the meantime
you can test the wiring by touching the 2 wires together with the key
on. The lights should light up verifying the circuit and the need for
a new switch. While the mechanic does the brakes he could do the switch.

The Workshop Manual assumes some working knowledge of automobile
repair. It is not a "Dummy's Guide". It was meant for the mechanics
working at a dealership already familiar with cars.

Best to have someone actually SHOW you and demonstrate the correct and
safe way to lift a car and support it with jackstands. I, personally
detest ramps. They can flop over sideways and if you are not careful
you can overrun them getting up on them. On low cars like Deloreans
you can also damage the underside geting on and off. They won't get
you high enough anyway to use a creeper and you can't work on the
wheels or brakes.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "o0shoryuken0o" <dmc06976_at_dml_m...> wrote:

>>
>> Hey everyone!
>> 
>> There are many things that I want to do on my DeLorean, but first and
>> foremost are 4 issues that need correction just so I can pass
>> inspection and get registration.  I've already had the car inspected
>> 








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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2005 16:35:37 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Used Deloreans for Sale

*****  Moderator Note  *****
Carfax is offering a free service to help identify
flood damaged cars.  Enter the VIN at their special
site and they will tell you the zip code of the last
registered owner.  

Mike G  Moderator of the week
*****


Anyone buying a Delorean (or any car new or used) must be especially
careful now. With all the recent large storms and flooding there are a
lot of cars that were flooded or "totaled". In many cases these cars
will be "freshened up", moved out of the area, and sold for what will
appear to be a "bargain" price. That bargain will not turn out to be
such a good deal after the car rots from the inside out. Carfax may
help. Figuring out the "chain of ownership" may also help. Look in
hidden places for silt, bugs, leaves, etc. Use your nose to check for
mildew. Run the A/C and check for odd smells. Look under the carpet
for stains. See if the wiring is green at the connectors. If buying
from a dealer check on whatever warranty they may offer for flood
related repairs. If the price is too good to be true there may be a
reason! I am not saying not to buy a "flood car", just be aware that
you may face a lot of problems in the future so the price you pay
should reflect that.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757







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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2005 16:58:12 -0000
From: "Mike Bosworth" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Misc questions



I have ramps, but have found that they can be a pain to use as on a 
completely flat surface they can slide across the floor.  

Hi 

Little tip on this, wrap some carpet 'strips' under the bottom run 
and double it back. You can then drive onto the carpet and up the 
rungs without them slipping back  :) 

Regards

'Tip of the Day' Mike

# 2001


 

>> 
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "o0shoryuken0o" <dmc06976_at_dml_m...> 
>> wrote:
>
>>> >
>>> > Hey everyone!
>>> > 
>>> > There are many things that I want to do on my DeLorean, but first 
>
>> and
>
>>> > foremost are 4 issues that need correction just so I can pass
>>> > inspection and get registration.  I've already had the car 
>
>> inspected
>
>>> > and now I have 1 month to fix the problems before a reinspection.
>>> > 
>
>> [moderator snip]
>>









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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2005 16:48:49 -0000
From: "Mike Bosworth" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Owner's map update

I wanted too... but it seems like i cant, not being in the US

Regards

Mike
#2001
Yorkshire, Uk

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>>
>> I note a lot of names missing from the list..  It
>> would be good to get as many on their as possible.  
>> 
>> A recent discussion among officers of the DMA club was
>> locations for future events that will attract more
>> people.  This map is useful in choosing locations for
>> events that will be central to more owners in the
>> Mid-Atlantic states.
>> 
>> I am sure event planners in other parts of the country
>> can use it as well.
>> 
>> It is a good idea to get yourself on there, and help
>> get events closer to home.
>> 
>> 

[moderator snip]




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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2005 10:29:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Misc questions

 
Just for the sake of correcting misinformation, most of what Sean said below is incorrect.  (I'm not trying to bust his chops, I just don't want you do to something unnecessary).
 
The rotors do *not* simply come off the lugs like the later model GMs do.  These rotors also include the bearing casing so they will not just pull off when you remove the caliper.  The bearings are sealed, so a good inspection will tell a lot (sometimes the bearings fall to pieces when the rotor is removed).  Be prepared that if you want to replace the bearings, which isn't a bad idea) they will need to be pressed into the hub carrier.  There are several ways to do this, but removing the hub and taking to a press is probably the easiest.
 
As for the locks, I assume the original poster was referencing the latch, not the locks -so unhooking the lock module may not buy you much.  You should not remove the front latch; the old trick you're referencing is the removal of the front locking rod (so that latch will still latch, but not lock).  This is really all unnecessary.  Adjust the latches and locks according to the manual and you should be fine.  Sometimes all that is necessary is tightening up the cable from the door handle.
 
It is highly, highly unlikely that your steering column controls are messed up.  They almost never fail.  It is more likely that your problems are elsewhere in the electrical system as David T. suggested.
 
Finally, jacking the car up: Sean is right.  Get the jackstands.  Lift one end of the car first by putting a padded jack in the center of the boxed frame sections.  Put the jackstands on either side of the jack nearer the outside of the car.  It's hard to explain, but easy to show!  I hope that helps!
 
Later,
Jake Kamphoefner
1063


seanhagan <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
Man! What state do you live in that they force these inspections... 
Here in AZ all they check is that your vin matches (you should see 
some of the cars on the road here though).... But anyhow..

[moderator snip]





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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2005 17:27:59 -0000
From: "M. P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>
Subject: Re: AC Question - 3 of them with a little surrounding information.

Sean,
     To answer your question: Yes, Freeze-12 can be added to a 
partially-charged R-12 system.  Freeze-12 plays nice with R-12.  I 
added some this year as I have a small leak somewhere.  All it took 
was about 8 oz. from the 12 oz. can to make things right.  I do have 
a stash of R-12 as well, but until I find the leak I don't want to 
add it.  I would recommend checking the quantity and condition of 
the oil in your system, too.  I picked up some pretty neat testers 
for just that purpose and they seem to work well.
     The AZ-D has all the tools needed to service your A/C system 
and we even have some spare Freeze-12.  Drop one of us an email and 
we can help.

Matt Olans
VeeP-The Arizona DeLorean Club
VIN 16816


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>>
>> Ran the same check with my car running and the AC turned on max. 
>> Same pressure.
>> 
>> Does anyone know if the AC R-12 Substitute Freeze 12 found on the 
>> specialtauto.com site can be added to the regular freon that I 
>> already have running through the lines? Chances are, I am not 

going 

>> to get regular R-12 unless I take a treck down to Nogales.
>> 
>> If the substitute works, then I just may charge it up, and see how 
>> we do...
>> 
>> Thanks
>> Sean 








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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2005 10:31:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: (Whoops)Re: AC Question - 3 of them with a little surrounding information.

Whoops,
 
What I meant to say is "definitely", not defiantly.  Looks like my spell checker chose the wrong word.  Who knows, you might be defiant also, but that's not what I meant!   :-) 
 
Jake


Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net> wrote: 
If your pressures are at 20 on both sides when the engine is running, you defiantly are low on freon. Worst case is that your compressor is shot and bleeding over.
<snip>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2005 18:00:29 -0000
From: "Qume Fox" <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>
Subject: Re: AC Question - 3 of them with a little surrounding information.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:

>>
>> Sean, Freeze 12 has been used in this part of the country for years. 

There

>> is another company making another sub I think called Red Top or Red
>> something. A NAPA store here caries it.
>> John Hervey



Personally I wouldn't use any substitute unless it was a last resort.. and 
you also need to see exactly what these substitutes are.. I know at least 
one i've seen before that was actually flammable, so you have to watch 
out.  I know technically  you could fill the AC system with propane and it 
would cool.. But I don't think this would be a very safe practice..

I have access to R12 so i'm probably going to use it when I get to the point 
of worrying about the AC on my D, despite the cost.. It just works so much 
better than 134a

Chris
VIN# 3209
http://badger.brazi.net/index.pl/delorean







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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2005 18:50:21 -0000
From: "ashtonorlan" <ashtonorlan_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: www.newdelorean.com??????

what ever happened...Nov 2005...Little late.







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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2005 19:02:32 -0000
From: "stefandmc" <stefandmc_at_dml_yahoo.ca>
Subject: Flex Wheel

Wondering if anyone has a flex wheel they want to sell for an 
automatic transmission. Mine needs to be replaced, hopefully i can 
avoid the vendors costs of 300.00 by asking you guys. I posted this 
earlier but it wasnt put up. Let me know if anyone has an extra one. 







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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2005 14:01:36 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: AC Question - 3 of them with a little surrounding information.

Chris, I can't blame you for not wanting to use a sub, but don't cut it
short till you try it. Here is the link to the technical/section and FAQ
page. You can also check out the web site.
http://www.technicalchemical.com/tip-5.htm
John Hervey



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Qume Fox
Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2005 12:00 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: AC Question - 3 of them with a little surrounding
information.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:

>>
>> Sean, Freeze 12 has been used in this part of the country for years. 

There

>> is another company making another sub I think called Red Top or Red
>> something. A NAPA store here caries it.
>> John Hervey



Personally I wouldn't use any substitute unless it was a last resort.. and 
you also need to see exactly what these substitutes are.. I know at least 
one i've seen before that was actually flammable, so you have to watch 
out.  I know technically  you could fill the AC system with propane and it 
would cool.. But I don't think this would be a very safe practice..

I have access to R12 so i'm probably going to use it when I get to the point

of worrying about the AC on my D, despite the cost.. It just works so much 
better than 134a

Chris
VIN# 3209
http://badger.brazi.net/index.pl/delorean







To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links



 






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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2005 15:27:16 -0400
From: Jason Ferrara <jason_at_dml_discordia.org>
Subject: Re: Re: AC Question - 3 of them with a little surrounding information.

I believe, and someone correct me if I'm wrong, that there is an  
issue with Freeze-12 and slow leaks.

Freeze-12 is a blend of R-134a and R-142b. Its the R-142b that  
carries the oil. If you have a slow leak, the two gasses will leak  
out at different rates, with the R-142b leaking out faster. You can  
end up with still enough refrigerant for the compressor to run, but  
that refrigerant will be mostly R-134a, and no longer capable of  
carrying the oil used in R-12 systems. So the compressor will destroy  
itself due to lack of lubrication.

On Oct 27, 2005, at 1:27 PM, M. P. Olans wrote:


>> Sean,
>>      To answer your question: Yes, Freeze-12 can be added to a
>> partially-charged R-12 system.  Freeze-12 plays nice with R-12.  I
>> added some this year as I have a small leak somewhere.  All it took
>> was about 8 oz. from the 12 oz. can to make things right.  I do have
>> a stash of R-12 as well, but until I find the leak I don't want to
>> add it.  I would recommend checking the quantity and condition of
>> the oil in your system, too.  I picked up some pretty neat testers
>> for just that purpose and they seem to work well.
>>      The AZ-D has all the tools needed to service your A/C system
>> and we even have some spare Freeze-12.  Drop one of us an email and
>> we can help.
>>
>> Matt Olans
>> VeeP-The Arizona DeLorean Club
>> VIN 16816
>>
>>






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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2005 19:03:56 -0000
From: "brandelorean" <brandelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Owner's map update

Hey Dave,

Someone has to represent Colorado!  No one seems to be in the middle 
of the country, but there are atleast 4 or 5 of us...I know more 
that are in Colorado.  I can name atleast 5 or 6 in Colorado but I'm 
sure they can speak up for themselves.  

I'm in Denver Colorado.  I know DenverDelorean is ....because he's 
in ummmm Denver  :) 

Thanks,

Brandon
Vin 3323


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:

>>
>> http://www.frappr.com/dmldeloreanmailinglist
>> 
>> We're at 120 owners on the map now, and it looks like we've 

covered all 

>> but about 10 US states. We're also showing 2 Canadian provinces 

and 5 

>> Euro countries. I know there are a few in Asia.......
>> 
>> They have updated the interface so it displays the photos much 

better. Also note the new URL (still linked from www.dmcnews.com 
too).

>> 
>> Dave Swingle
>>









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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2005 12:28:48 -0700
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: Freeze 12

Sean:

FYI you can get R12 - pretty easy on Ebay.  Its not as cheap as Freeze
12, but some of those products are highly flammable, and while some may
mix with R12, they also contaminate it so it is a pain in the ass to
recover... 

To buy the real R12 you need to IMACA certification - its an online test
on the web, costs about $15  and will take you about an hour.  It is an
open book test, you print the study guide out before you take the test.
No big deal.

Tom

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of seanhagan
Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2005 12:18 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: AC Question - 3 of them with a little surrounding
information.

Ran the same check with my car running and the AC turned on max. 
Same pressure.

Does anyone know if the AC R-12 Substitute Freeze 12 found on the
specialtauto.com site can be added to the regular freon that I already
have running through the lines? Chances are, I am not going to get
regular R-12 unless I take a treck down to Nogales.

If the substitute works, then I just may charge it up, and see how we
do...

Thanks
Sean 

-




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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2005 20:21:25 -0000
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Misc questions

No worries... always open to correction. I was thinking of the 
caddie again. 

Sean

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_s...> 
wrote:

>>
>>  
>> Just for the sake of correcting misinformation, most of what Sean 

said below is incorrect.  (I'm not trying to bust his chops, I just 
don't want you do to something unnecessary).

>>  
>> The rotors do *not* simply come off the lugs like the later model 

GMs do.  These rotors also include the bearing casing so they will 
not just pull off when you remove the caliper.  The bearings are 
sealed, so a good inspection will tell a lot (sometimes the bearings 
fall to pieces when the rotor is removed).  Be prepared that if you 
want to replace the bearings, which isn't a bad idea) they will need 
to be pressed into the hub carrier.  There are several ways to do 
this, but removing the hub and taking to a press is probably the 
easiest.

>>  

[moderator snip]




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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2005 13:45:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Joe LoRe


>> From: "Josh Porter" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>
>> Subject: Joe LoRe
>> 
>> What ever happened to Joes 160K mile test car that was in the Gold 
>> Portfolio? What happened to him? I was wondering if anyone knew what 
>> all the added gauges were for that were located under the steering 
>> wheel?
>> 
>> Josh
>> 10989


You can search the archives back in July of this year - Chris Bowman & Rob Grady
posted an update to the DMCJoe business dealings. Chris also posted his
documentation here: http://www.geocities.com/cbowman3169/

Shannon Y
16506


	
		
__________________________________ 
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 
http://mail.yahoo.com




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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2005 21:47:08 -0000
From: "Daniel" <dmcburn75_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Cold running problem and battery

Dear group,

I've posted here a few times about a cold running problem I would have
where the car would backfire slightly when first started and driven a
few hundred feet...Well four days ago my battery died(it was over 6yrs
old) I replaced the battery and since then I have not had a single
backfire or any other problems I encountered when cold. Is this
something strange or could a weak/dying battery cause the problems I
was having? feel free to chime in. Thanks!
Danny
4160







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