Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2965
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:3 Nov 2005 22:18:57 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 26 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Monroe Shock Cross Refrence #'s
From: "Shain Brannan" <dsmguy_at_dml_ptd.net>

2. Re: Attn John Hervey
From: Robert Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

3. Re: Fuel Sender or the Gauge?
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>

4. Cold Start Valve circuit
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>

5. Re: Monroe Shock Cross Refrence #'s
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

6. RE: Cold Start Valve circuit
From: "Todd Nelson" <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>

7. Re: Monroe Shock Cross Refrence #'s
From: "dmc_5180" <dmc_5180_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. Re: 11501 Update & Looking for new/used B28F
From: "dmc_5180" <dmc_5180_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Re: Vinyl on SS
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

10. RE: Re: Monroe Shock Cross Refrence #'s
From: "Shain" <dsmguy_at_dml_ptd.net>

11. Re: Fuel Sender or the Gauge?
From: "Steelwings" <steelwings_at_dml_comcast.net>

12. Re: 11501 Update & Looking for new/used B28F
From: mike clemens <rmclemns_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Re: #4004 on ebay
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

14. delorean on ebay
From: Jonathan Minor <malletslinger_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Fuel Sender or the Gauge?
From: "Steelwings" <steelwings_at_dml_comcast.net>

16. RE: Fuse Question--"power outlet" and cigarette lighter recepticle
From: "timnagin" <timnagin_at_dml_mindspring.com>

17. Re: vin 6453 update
From: "Lawrence Lormand" <lawrencesr_at_dml_netzero.net>

18. Re: Re: vin 6453 update
From: Christopher Mack <christopher_mack_at_dml_yahoo.com>

19. Insurance, stated value, daily drivers
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

20. RE: Re: Vinyl on SS
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>

21. high beam / low beam behavior
From: Owen Emry <owen_at_dml_aerodrome.us>

22. SUNSHADE,LOUVRE broken
From: "cupsdmc" <cupsdmc_at_dml_yahoo.com>

23. Re: #4004 on ebay
From: "Eric" <hollywood2311_at_dml_gmail.com>

24. Steering wheel removal question
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>

25. Re: Fuel Sender or the Gauge?
From: "cupsdmc" <cupsdmc_at_dml_yahoo.com>

26. Re: Resonable Insurance Rates
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 02 Nov 2005 22:05:11 -0000
From: "Shain Brannan" <dsmguy_at_dml_ptd.net>
Subject: Monroe Shock Cross Refrence #'s

Does anyone have the cross refrence numbers of the monroe shocks that 
fit the front and rear of the DeLorean.  The numbers i have here seem 
to be backwards for the sensa track shocks.  I was trying to cross 
some over so i could order Billsteain shocks.

-Shain









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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2005 16:26:59 -0600
From: Robert Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Attn John Hervey


>> John,


We are in LV at Sema.  Call me if you want to get together.
312590-9824

Bob Brandys

>>
>>
>>
>>







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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 02 Nov 2005 23:32:06 -0000
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Sender or the Gauge?

I have symptoms similar to Sal's, just no solution as of yet. 

In my case, the gauge is also pegged high when full and when it 
starts to come down, it's about 1/2 tank off from reality.  I use my 
1/2 mark as Empty and the wild fluctuations I get between 1/2 and 
1/4 as REALLY EMPTY.  :) 

If you are right, then my rheostat wire has also slipped down, just 
less than his. I am puzzled by your description vs. his statement 
that the windings appear to be evenly spaced.  It sounds like your 
senders do not have this appearance.

Sal, if you want to email me a digital photo of what yours looks 
like, I'll pull my sender and do the same.  I'll be working on the 
tank this weekend anyway, installing new pump boots. 

It shouldn't take much to determine if the relative appearances of 
the two senders somehow corresponds to their differences.  Ideally, 
we'd also have a photo of a sender that is functioning perfectly. 
Any volunteers?

There is also the possibility, I guess, that we both have good 
senders and bad gauges.

Marv
#10820


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, mike clemens <rmclemns_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>>
>> Hi Sal,
>> 
>> Since no one else responded, I'll give you my
>> thoughts.  I've got three transmitters taken apart and
>> sitting in front of me.
>> 
>> All three exhibit a tendency for the rheostat wire to
>> slide to the bottom of the post that it is wrapped
>> around thus ending up with too many turns at the lower
>> end of the scale.  The wire does not appear to be
>> glued to the post, probably so the metal slide will
>> make good contact.  You can slide the wire back up the
>> post with your fingers, but I have found that gravity
>> will eventually cause it to fall back to the bottom.
>> 
>> My resistance readings are from one ohm to 100 ohms
>> one all three.  I don't have any voltage readings at
>> this time.  You can contact me offline if you have any
>> questions.
>> 
>> Mike
>> 
>> 
>> --- Steelwings <steelwings_at_dml_c...> wrote:
>> 
>
>>> > I'm having a problem with either my fuel sender or
>>> > the gauge. I was hoping someone on the list might
>>> > give me the benefit of their experience with this as
>>> > I can find almost nothing in the archives. Here's
>>> > what is happening: I have a stock, 1981 original
>>> > gauge and sender. My tank is about half-full. The
>>> > fuel gauge is indicating an "above full" reading
>>> > with the low fuel warning light dimly lit. (The
>>> > needle is at the 12:00 o'clock position) If I remove
>>> > the sender and allow the float inside to fall to the
>>> > bottom of the tube, the needle will drop to the
>>> > "empty" mark and the fuel warning light will
>>> > illuminate normally. If I manually bring the float
>>> > up approximately 1/4 of its total travel up from
>>> > bottom, the gauge will read "Full" and any linear
>>> > increment below that point will deflect the needle
>>> > accordingly.(for instance: 1/8 of the total travel
>>> > from the bottom reads "half-full") I have removed
>>> > the sender and examined it visually both inside and
>>> > out. It appears to be in almost new condition. No
>>> > visible damage, no varnish or discoloration of the
>>> > plastic or metal components. The float and wipers
>>> > travel freely along the "rheostat" winding. The
>>> > windings appear to be evenly spaced and undamaged. I
>>> > placed a VOM across the wiper lead and winding lead.
>>> > At the bottom float position, it reads about 20ohms.
>>> > At the top float position, it reads about 100ohms.
>>> > Sliding the wiper along the winding , the readings
>>> > are linear. Then, in circuit, I took a voltage
>>> > reading across the leads. Black (ground) to Red
>>> > (Power) was approximately 12.5VDC. Then I checked
>>> > across black to yellow (the return) and I got the
>>> > following: With the needle on the gauge reading
>>> > "full" (4/4ths) with the float approximately 1/4 up
>>> > from the bottom of the tube, I read 6vdc. (That is:
>>> > 6 volts to cause the deflection to read exactly
>>> > full) at 1/8th the travel from the bottom, 3 volts
>>> > and so on. If I go beyond quarter of the way up from
>>> > the bottom, the voltage exceeds the 6 volts and the
>>> > needle will deflect beyond the full mark and
>>> > continue counter clockwise until it can't go any
>>> > further. All the way up (full travel) was about
>>> > 10vdc.  The circuit looks pretty simple but the
>>> > books don't give me any reference measurements to
>>> > compare. Has anyone ever measured the resistance of
>>> > the travel in the stock DMC sender? How many volts
>>> > will cause a full deflection in the gauge? Any
>>> > Ideas? Is it the gauge or the sender? Thanks in
>>> > advance for any advice you guys might have.
>>> > Sal
>>> > 
>>> > 
>>> > [Non-text portions of this message have been
>>> > removed]
>>> > 
>>> > 
>>> > 
>>> > 
>>> > 
>>> > To address comments privately to the moderating
>>> > team, please address:
>>> > moderators_at_dml_d...
>>> > 
>>> > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
>>> > sale see www.dmcnews.com
>>> > 
>>> > To search the archives or view files, log in at
>>> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>>> > Yahoo! Groups Links
>>> > 
>>> > 
>>> >     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>> > 
>>> >  
>>> > 
>>> > 
>>> > 
>>> > 
>
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 	
>> 		
>> __________________________________ 
>> Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 
>> http://mail.yahoo.com
>>









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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2005 15:15:31 -0800
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: Cold Start Valve circuit

My cold start valve is not opening under normal cold start conditions -
no spray.

My cold start valve does not open when the thermo time switch is
bypassed and jumpered out - no spray.

The Cold Start valve sprays fine when I supply it with +12V and ground
directly at its connectors - perfect spray pattern.

Lets see if I have this right...  

It looks like ground runs from the hot start relay socket, through the
thermo switch, to one terminal, and the cold start valve using a
blue/black wire

The +12 is supplied from a white/red wire at the starter?

So, with the jumper installed I should first look for continuity from
ground to the terminal on the cold start valve which ties to the
blue/black wire, if that is good then I hook back up to the thermo time
switch and check again.  

I then look for +12 on the white/red wire while cranking?

In theory it sounds ok, but I think I'm a little off here - any help or
suggestions?

Thanks...

Tom
10902





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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 03 Nov 2005 00:54:42 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Monroe Shock Cross Refrence #'s

There is no direct cross-over on the rears - nothing in normal 
production has the groove milled in the shock like the original 
Girlings to accept the ring that carries the lower spring cup. There 
are aftermarket conversions using other shocks, but they all have some 
sort of modification or adapter used. The DMCH shocks are custom made. 
The two well-known modified ones are the Mid-States DMC setup and the 
Henninger (also SpecialT) setup. 

I've seen "standard" shocks used on the front (also with minor 
modifications/spacers) but I don't know what the number is. 

Dave Swingle


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Shain Brannan" <dsmguy_at_dml_p...> wrote:

>>
>> Does anyone have the cross refrence numbers of the monroe shocks that 
>> fit the front and rear of the DeLorean.  The numbers i have here seem 
>> to be backwards for the sensa track shocks.  I was trying to cross 
>> some over so i could order Bilstein shocks.
>> 
>> -Shain
>>









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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2005 20:03:40 -0500
From: "Todd Nelson" <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>
Subject: RE: Cold Start Valve circuit

Tom,
 
When you bypassed the TTS (Thermo Time Switch) were you cranking the engine while testing?  Under normal conditions, even when you bypass the TTS, the cold start valve will only get power when the starting is cranking since it gets power directly from the starter solenoid.  Use a voltmeter and make sure you get 12 volts at the red/white wire on the cold start valve connector (while cranking).  If you read no voltage then go down to the starter solenoid and measure the voltage directly from where the red/white wire connects, again while someone is cranking the car.  Be careful not to short anything out while down there!  If you still read no voltage, or low voltage, then your solenoid is on its way out.  If you read 12 volts at the connector while cranking, then the issue must be in the ground side of the circuit.  When you bypass the TTS make sure you're grounding the blue wire in the TTS connector.  Use a good solid wire as I have used cheapo paper clips to do this any they've melted.  If this causes the valve to spray then your TTS is probably dead.  You can test this by testing for continuity between the TTS connector and ground while the engine coolant is cold.
 
Good Luck,
Todd Nelson
1561, Vermont
http://www.rit.edu/~tan5732
 

________________________________

From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com on behalf of Tom Tait
Sent: Wed 11/2/2005 6:15 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Cold Start Valve circuit



My cold start valve is not opening under normal cold start conditions -
no spray.

My cold start valve does not open when the thermo time switch is
bypassed and jumpered out - no spray.

The Cold Start valve sprays fine when I supply it with +12V and ground
directly at its connectors - perfect spray pattern.

Lets see if I have this right... 

It looks like ground runs from the hot start relay socket, through the
thermo switch, to one terminal, and the cold start valve using a
blue/black wire

The +12 is supplied from a white/red wire at the starter?

So, with the jumper installed I should first look for continuity from
ground to the terminal on the cold start valve which ties to the
blue/black wire, if that is good then I hook back up to the thermo time
switch and check again. 

I then look for +12 on the white/red wire while cranking?

In theory it sounds ok, but I think I'm a little off here - any help or
suggestions?

Thanks...

Tom
10902



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 03 Nov 2005 00:46:45 -0000
From: "dmc_5180" <dmc_5180_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Monroe Shock Cross Refrence #'s

Shain,

First of all do you have a set of monroes on the car now? If not, a 
cross refernce number will not get you what you are looking for. The 
rear shocks will only work with custom spring seat collars. Check W/ 
Marty Maier, at mid-west delorean club. He may be able to help you 
out.

Dennis 



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Shain Brannan" <dsmguy_at_dml_p...> wrote:

>>
>> Does anyone have the cross refrence numbers of the monroe shocks 

that 

>> fit the front and rear of the DeLorean.  The numbers i have here 

seem 

>> to be backwards for the sensa track shocks.  I was trying to cross 
>> some over so i could order Billsteain shocks.
>> 
>> -Shain
>>










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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 03 Nov 2005 00:30:04 -0000
From: "dmc_5180" <dmc_5180_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 11501 Update & Looking for new/used B28F

Nate,

I can't help you with locating a used engine, but I am curious where 
you are located. You can reply privately if you want.

Dennis
DULUTH,MN


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "natesky1980" <ncskalsk_at_dml_m...> wrote:

>>
>> 
>> I Thought I'd let the list know how vin 11501 is fairing after 
>> succumbing to a engine block defect.  
>> 
>> The repair was simple and cheap (good clues of a less-than-long 

term 

>> repair). I patched the hole with epoxy and did some trivial 
>> maintenance (dist cat, wires, water pump, etc).  I haven't taken 

it 

>> out any where, just up the hill I live on ( I figure if I only 

drive 

>> up, the ol' gravity `engine' can always bring me home).   I've 

been 

>> working on smaller projects to keep me occupied and not thinking 
>> about the mess that is my engine.  Recovered the headliners, 

replaced 

>> my steering wheel bushing, touched up the frame with POR-15, and 
>> bought/installed a small fortune worth of stainless fasteners.   I 
>> was able to scrape some of the epoxy of the frame, but thankfully 

I 

>> haven't found any rust, other than some surface rust on the edge 

of 

>> the front crossmember.   The car is really clean, everywhere.  So 

it 

>> begs the question of how the valley of death became so 

contaminated.

>> 
>> Given that I expect to have the car well into the +20year range, 

I've 

>> decided this winter I will put a new / rebuilt used engine in.  
>> Again, I'm not looking to swap a different engine, just a 2.8 PRV 
>> with one less hole.
>> 
>> I've contacted a few vendors/individuals.  I was planning on 
>> purchasing a shortblock from DMC Houston for ~$1.5k as listed on 
>> their online store, but they aren't offering them anymore.   They 

do 

>> offer a longblock, depending on how the numbers land I may do 

that.  

>> I'd like to have at least a short block, rather than having to 
>> swap/replace everything into a new block.  
>> 
>> I've looked around for B28F's in the local market.  There are a 
>> couple, but all in the +100k mile range (would you belive someone 
>> telling you a 85 volvo has less??).  There is a local-ish company 
>> that sells rebuilt engines; they have the Volvo B28F and the B280F 

in 

>> the inventory. But for a grand more I could have a DMCh long block 
>> and not have to switch cradle/lower crankcase.
>> 
>> So in the interests of having options; if you have or know of a 

B28F 

>> (Volvo or Delorean) engine that's available, please let me know.  
>> (Especially in the mid-west, Minnesota region). 
>> 
>> Thanks!
>> 
>> -Nate
>> 
>> Vin 11501
>>









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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 03 Nov 2005 01:21:58 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: Vinyl on SS

Josh - I have applied self-adhesive vinyl in many ways and left it on 
for up to 7 months with no ill effects.  The flag was the longest 
running decoration.  The main issue is that you "super clean" the 
stainless when you peel the vinyl off, leaving a spot that is 
considerably cleaner and brighter colored than areas that were not 
covered with the vinyl.  The color eventually returns to normal as the 
oxide layer reforms and develops to its normal thickness.  Another 
owner (who shall remain anonymous) applied cammo cloth to his DeLorean 
using spray starch.  This was done in the very early '90's.  DO NOT do 
this with starch.  The vinyl is fine, but cloth glued on with starch 
will pit the stainless in a significant way.  The stainless must be 
clean and dry for the vinyl to stick well, and having it warm is also a 
plus, so that you can stretch the vinyl over the contours of the body.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged" or "Spirit of America"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com  


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Josh Porter" <joshp1986_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>>
>> A buddy of mine abd I were talking about DeLoreans and cammo, we were 
>> at a hunting store buying cammo. We had the idea of wraping a 

Delorean 

>> in Mossy Oak cammo. It would be a promo thing for my mom's business 
>> until the cammo started to crack then we would take it off and return 
>> it to like it is now.----That is the conversation in a nut shell.
>> 
>> I still like the old "United We Stand" DeLorean and that is what gave 
>> us the idea. How well does vinyl stick to the sheet metal? I highly 
>> doubt that we will do it but it sparked my curiousity. Although it 
>> would be the favorite car down here. Everywhere you go there is 

hunting cammo somehwere on vehicles.








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2005 21:24:08 -0500
From: "Shain" <dsmguy_at_dml_ptd.net>
Subject: RE: Re: Monroe Shock Cross Refrence #'s

Dennis,

A good friend is going to make the collars for the rear shocks when I decide
what to go with.  I have a set of gabriels on the front that work ok,  but
we always use bilstein on the front of the porshe I help work on.  In my eye
their one of the best shocks on the market.  I noticed the Houston setup,
but because of the double inflation,  I don't believe they are worth it.
I'm trying to go with something that rides ok,  but will last a long while
since I barely drive the car.  I can buy a set of Bilstein shocks for just
over what I would pay for all 4 houston shocks.  If they kept the price the
same I would have purchased them.

-Shain

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
dmc_5180
Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 7:47 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Monroe Shock Cross Refrence #'s

Shain,

First of all do you have a set of monroes on the car now? If not, a 
cross refernce number will not get you what you are looking for. The 
rear shocks will only work with custom spring seat collars. Check W/ 
Marty Maier, at mid-west delorean club. He may be able to help you 
out.

Dennis 



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Shain Brannan" <dsmguy_at_dml_p...> wrote:

>>
>> Does anyone have the cross refrence numbers of the monroe shocks 

that 

>> fit the front and rear of the DeLorean.  The numbers i have here 

seem 

>> to be backwards for the sensa track shocks.  I was trying to cross 
>> some over so i could order Billsteain shocks.
>> 
>> -Shain
>>










To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links



 







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2005 21:27:00 -0500
From: "Steelwings" <steelwings_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Sender or the Gauge?

I will be happy to post a digital of the internal windings. I will do this
tomorrow after I get home from work. However, I wish we had a baseline unit
to compare our readings. So far the only responses have been from you and
Mike and I think we all have the same problem. I don't mind springing for a
new sender. I just don't want to buy a new sender only to discover my gauge
is bad. If we could get someone on the list that could give us the impedance
characteristics of a known good unit as well confirm that a 6vdc input to
the gauge would normally cause the needle to deflect to the "full" mark.
>From what I've read, this is a problem that has been haunting Delorean
owners for years. I'm just surprised no one really responded to the thread.
Anyone want to throw us a bone here? Thanks in advance.
Sal
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 6:32 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Fuel Sender or the Gauge?



>> I have symptoms similar to Sal's, just no solution as of yet.
>>
>> In my case, the gauge is also pegged high when full and when it
>> starts to come down, it's about 1/2 tank off from reality.  I use my
>> 1/2 mark as Empty and the wild fluctuations I get between 1/2 and
>> 1/4 as REALLY EMPTY.  :) 
>>
>> If you are right, then my rheostat wire has also slipped down, just
>> less than his. I am puzzled by your description vs. his statement
>> that the windings appear to be evenly spaced.  It sounds like your
>> senders do not have this appearance.
>>
>> Sal, if you want to email me a digital photo of what yours looks
>> like, I'll pull my sender and do the same.  I'll be working on the
>> tank this weekend anyway, installing new pump boots.
>>
>> It shouldn't take much to determine if the relative appearances of
>> the two senders somehow corresponds to their differences.  Ideally,
>> we'd also have a photo of a sender that is functioning perfectly.
>> Any volunteers?
>>
>> There is also the possibility, I guess, that we both have good
>> senders and bad gauges.
>>
>> Marv
>> #10820
>>
>>
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, mike clemens <rmclemns_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>
>>> >
>>> > Hi Sal,
>>> >
>>> > Since no one else responded, I'll give you my
>>> > thoughts.  I've got three transmitters taken apart and
>>> > sitting in front of me.
>>> >
>>> > All three exhibit a tendency for the rheostat wire to
>>> > slide to the bottom of the post that it is wrapped
>>> > around thus ending up with too many turns at the lower
>>> > end of the scale.  The wire does not appear to be
>>> > glued to the post, probably so the metal slide will
>>> > make good contact.  You can slide the wire back up the
>>> > post with your fingers, but I have found that gravity
>>> > will eventually cause it to fall back to the bottom.
>>> >
>>> > My resistance readings are from one ohm to 100 ohms
>>> > one all three.  I don't have any voltage readings at
>>> > this time.  You can contact me offline if you have any
>>> > questions.
>>> >
>>> > Mike
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > --- Steelwings <steelwings_at_dml_c...> wrote:
>>> >
>>
>>>> > > I'm having a problem with either my fuel sender or
>>>> > > the gauge. I was hoping someone on the list might
>>>> > > give me the benefit of their experience with this as
>>>> > > I can find almost nothing in the archives. Here's
>>>> > > what is happening: I have a stock, 1981 original
>>>> > > gauge and sender. My tank is about half-full. The
>>>> > > fuel gauge is indicating an "above full" reading
>>>> > > with the low fuel warning light dimly lit. (The
>>>> > > needle is at the 12:00 o'clock position) If I remove
>>>> > > the sender and allow the float inside to fall to the
>>>> > > bottom of the tube, the needle will drop to the
>>>> > > "empty" mark and the fuel warning light will
>>>> > > illuminate normally. If I manually bring the float
>>>> > > up approximately 1/4 of its total travel up from
>>>> > > bottom, the gauge will read "Full" and any linear
>>>> > > increment below that point will deflect the needle
>>>> > > accordingly.(for instance: 1/8 of the total travel
>>>> > > from the bottom reads "half-full") I have removed
>>>> > > the sender and examined it visually both inside and
>>>> > > out. It appears to be in almost new condition. No
>>>> > > visible damage, no varnish or discoloration of the
>>>> > > plastic or metal components. The float and wipers
>>>> > > travel freely along the "rheostat" winding. The
>>>> > > windings appear to be evenly spaced and undamaged. I
>>>> > > placed a VOM across the wiper lead and winding lead.
>>>> > > At the bottom float position, it reads about 20ohms.
>>>> > > At the top float position, it reads about 100ohms.
>>>> > > Sliding the wiper along the winding , the readings
>>>> > > are linear. Then, in circuit, I took a voltage
>>>> > > reading across the leads. Black (ground) to Red
>>>> > > (Power) was approximately 12.5VDC. Then I checked
>>>> > > across black to yellow (the return) and I got the
>>>> > > following: With the needle on the gauge reading
>>>> > > "full" (4/4ths) with the float approximately 1/4 up
>>>> > > from the bottom of the tube, I read 6vdc. (That is:
>>>> > > 6 volts to cause the deflection to read exactly
>>>> > > full) at 1/8th the travel from the bottom, 3 volts
>>>> > > and so on. If I go beyond quarter of the way up from
>>>> > > the bottom, the voltage exceeds the 6 volts and the
>>>> > > needle will deflect beyond the full mark and
>>>> > > continue counter clockwise until it can't go any
>>>> > > further. All the way up (full travel) was about
>>>> > > 10vdc.  The circuit looks pretty simple but the
>>>> > > books don't give me any reference measurements to
>>>> > > compare. Has anyone ever measured the resistance of
>>>> > > the travel in the stock DMC sender? How many volts
>>>> > > will cause a full deflection in the gauge? Any
>>>> > > Ideas? Is it the gauge or the sender? Thanks in
>>>> > > advance for any advice you guys might have.
>>>> > > Sal
>>>> > >
>>>> > >
>>>> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been
>>>> > > removed]
>>>> > >
>>>> > >
>>>> > >
>>>> > >
>>>> > >
>>>> > > To address comments privately to the moderating
>>>> > > team, please address:
>>>> > > moderators_at_dml_d...
>>>> > >
>>>> > > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
>>>> > > sale see www.dmcnews.com
>>>> > >
>>>> > > To search the archives or view files, log in at
>>>> > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>>>> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
>>>> > >
>>>> > >
>>>> > >     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>>> > >
>>>> > >
>>>> > >
>>>> > >
>>>> > >
>>>> > >
>>
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > __________________________________
>>> > Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005
>>> > http://mail.yahoo.com
>>> >
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see

www.dmcnews.com

>>
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>







________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2005 18:59:42 -0800 (PST)
From: mike clemens <rmclemns_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 11501 Update & Looking for new/used B28F

Nate, 

Contact me off line.  I may have what you are looking
for.


Mike rmclemns(_at_dml_)yahoo.com


--- natesky1980 <ncskalsk_at_dml_mtu.edu> wrote:


>> 
>> I Thought I'd let the list know how vin 11501 is
>> fairing after 
>> succumbing to a engine block defect.  
>>----> 
>> So in the interests of having options; if you have
>> or know of a B28F 
>> (Volvo or Delorean) engine that's available, please
>> let me know.  
>> (Especially in the mid-west, Minnesota region). 
>> 
>> Thanks!
>> 
>> -Nate
>> 
>> Vin 11501
>>





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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 03 Nov 2005 02:35:37 -0000
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: #4004 on ebay

call me old fashioned, but i'd like to see the car back with its own 
interior and its own hood.

and a caring owner who wants to see it back on the road.

whether the mileage is the least of the worries surely misses the 
point, surely if it has been reversed or the clocks changed then it 
does misrepresent the actual miles (and in the UK anyway is not 
legal). although prosecutions are not common.

i think we are worrying too much about the work required.

if the frame was previously well maintained epoxy, then it should 
resist salt water well.
most parts that will rust would probably have rust on by now anyway, 
and sometime in the future need attention (like i have just changed 
my headlamp buckets-they were shot).
the electric system on this car is fairly simple, and to change 
relays etc is cheap. not sure about the transmission as is this not 
a sealed unit?

i just think we would be suprised at what would be OK.

Regards

Steve




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:

>>
>> After a car's been flooded, mileage on the odometer is the least 

of 

>> your worries and should have no impact on the value of the car. 
>> 
>> Anyone buying a flood car to rebuild it has never considered what 

it 

>> means. About the only remaining value on a car like this is 

probably 

>> the stainless and the frame itself (unless already rusted). (Yeah, 
>> the fiberglass is good but doesn't have any value). A few days 
>> underwater won't hurt the "hard parts" but like Mike said, 

anything 

>> that moves or is electrical right down to the little vacuum 

canisters 

>> on the heater is junk. Being submerged several feet is much 

different 

>> from being sprayed with rain water. There isn't much that's truly 
>> sealed against being under water, so everything is full of wet 

sand. 

>> Ball joints, CV joints, relays, radio -  everything. Some of it 

will 

>> fail right away, some not for months. But it's all bad. 
>> 
>> At least this guy's saying it's a flood car, it's pretty obvious 

that 

>> he's out to make a few bucks (what's wrong with that?) and he did 

go 

>> to the effort of buying it, dragging it back home, and pulling 

parts 

>> that he could use off the car.  Actually he'd probably make more 
>> money and catch less criticism if he just parted it out. In that 

case 

>> the parts buyers would have no idea it was a flood car either. 

Would 

>> that be better or worse? My guess is that's what will happen with 

the 

>> next owner, and no one will know. 
>> 
>> The only way to restore a car like this is to find a donor car 

that 

>> was in the right kind of accident (rollovers are good!) to donate 

all 

>> the soft parts/mechanical parts. And then don't count your time. 

When 

>> you're all done you'll have a $16,000 car with a "flood salvage" 
>> title or a "totaled" title depending on which one you use the VIN 
>> from. 
>> 
>> Dave Swingle
>> 
>> 
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Qume Fox" <qumefox_at_dml_b...> wrote:
>
>>> >
>>> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "f14dflyer" <f14dflyer_at_dml_c...> 

wrote:

>>>> > >
>>>> > > List,
>>>> > > 
>>>> > > this car was purchased by a guy who is on the DeLorean forum 

at 

>>> > entermyworld.com. He 
>>
>>>> > > intended to fix it up, but decided he'd bit off more than he 
>
>> could chew 
>
>>>>> > > > -Dave J
>>
>>> > 
>>> > I don't have a problem with what he did, only the fact that his 
>
>> auction is 
>
>>> > extremely misleading and the mileage changing. I mean if he put 

in 

>> the 
>
>>> > auction something like "the car had 12000 miles on it when I 

bought 

>> it 
>
>>> > but after swapping some parts the current odometer installed 

reads 

>>> > 5900"  then that would be a hell of alot better,
>
>>









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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2005 19:40:20 -0800 (PST)
From: Jonathan Minor <malletslinger_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: delorean on ebay

If any one is interested in seeing some pics of the
Delorean on ebay with no posted pics, I contacted the
seller two days ago and had him email me some pics of
it...he had to buy a new digital camra.
Im talking about Ebay Item number: 4586465478, vin#  
SCEDT26T3BD004289
I live about 72 miles away from the seller, so I could
go see it in person if someone wanted me to...
So if anyone wants to see the pics, just email me off
the list.

Jon Minor


		
__________________________________ 
Yahoo! FareChase: Search multiple travel sites in one click.
http://farechase.yahoo.com




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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2005 22:16:47 -0500
From: "Steelwings" <steelwings_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Fuel Sender or the Gauge?

Group,
I was going to wait until tomorrow but I managed to get the photos of the sender in question uploaded to the DML photos section. You will find them in folder: "Fuel Sender"
Sal


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2005 01:42:58 -0500
From: "timnagin" <timnagin_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: RE: Fuse Question--"power outlet" and cigarette lighter recepticle

I do hope the errors on that page you listed are due only to translation and
not lack of understanding.  Wow.  They are trying to sell product though.

Yes, there are differences in a dedicated "power outlet" and cigarette
lighter receptacle.  This is why I mentioned appreciable differences.  The
fact still remains that the De Lorean lighter receptacle is different than
most, if not all, American vehicles.  Using items that work properly in an
American receptacle may not work properly in the De Lorean.  This does not
necessarily mean there is anything wrong with either item.

I know of a few people on this list who have had issues with this very
situation, and there was absolutely nothing wrong with their car.  They can
speak up if they wish to do so.

Greg




-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Jonathan Minor
Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 2:58 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Fuse Question--"power outlet" and cigarette lighter
recepticle

There is a difference between a power outlet and a
lighter recepticle...I believe (some)newer trucks have
both in the cab.  The difference is mainly that
lighter sockets are made to grab the tip of the
lighter when it is pushed in, whereas the power
outlets are not made to grab the tip of a lighter and
WILL NOT work with lighters.
"One particular problem is its(the lighter socket's)
disability to hold accessory plugs securely
connected." http://www.sutars.se/misc.htm (more info
on this page)

When a peace of the inside of the cigarette lighter
bent/broke in my camaro, it caused the short (BTW:
before I figured out that the problem was the socket,
I went through about 3 25A fuses)

Wether or not you believe me is of no concern to me...
I am simply trying to offer advice.

To test wether or not the lighter socket is the
problem, just unplug it(from behind). If the fuse goes
again, then that wasnt the problem.
Hope that helps
Jonathan Minor

--- timnagin <timnagin_at_dml_mindspring.com> wrote:


>> The current draw for a cell phone charger, or
>> cigarette lighter adapter, is
>> much less than the lighter itself.
>> 
>> The cigarette lighter socket in the De Lorean is
>> larger than those used in
>> American vehicles, though standard in Europe at the
>> time of production.  If
>> you use an average cigarette lighter adapter in your
>> De Lorean socket you
>> can very easily short the circuit.
>> 
>> I am not sure if they are still available but at one
>> time you could purchase
>> a plastic sleeve to accommodate for this difference.
>>  This adapter was very
>> common back then as Mercedes and BMW's of that era
>> have the same over-sized
>> socket in comparison to American vehicles.
>> 
>> There is no appreciable difference between a "power
>> outlet" and a cigarette
>> lighter receptacle.
>> 
>> Greg
>> 
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>> [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
>> Jonathan Minor
>> Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2005 7:39 PM
>> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>> Subject: Re: [DML] Fuse Question
>> 
>> Before you replace the fuse, you should try to
>> locate
>> what caused the fuse to blow in the first place.
>> There is a short somewhere. Try checking the
>> cigarette
>> lighter socket first. The inside of the socket was
>> origionally intended for a lighter, not a phone
>> charger, so if the problem is the socket, and you
>> dont
>> smoke, then you can replace the socket with one that
>> is intended to be used as a power outlet...you can
>> get
>> one at auto zone for like $3. This is what I did
>> with
>> my 89 Camaro a couple years ago and I havent had any
>> problems since.
>> If thats not it, then its gonna take a little longer
>> to find the problem.  For your sake, I hope it's the
>> cigarette lighter  :-) 
>> Good luck
>> Jonathan Minor (no vin)
>> 
>> --- geoff_ombao <geoff_ombao_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
>> 
>
>>> > Greetings! Today I found the fuse for my interior
>>> > lights had blown. The manual calls for a 
>>> > 10 amp replacement, but a 25 amp fuse is currently
>>> > installed. Does anyone know which 
>>> > one is correct? (My bet is on the 10 amp one, but
>>> > wanted to see if anyone had any 
>>> > insights.)
>>> > 
>>> > Thanks in advanced.
>>> > 
>>> > - Geoff






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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 03 Nov 2005 04:30:50 -0000
From: "Lawrence Lormand" <lawrencesr_at_dml_netzero.net>
Subject: Re: vin 6453 update

Chris,
 Check the wire from the Lamba to the coil !!! I have fixed 2 already were the wire was 
pinched & cracked the insulation & seperated the wire.
Lawrence 00538m & 00915a 

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Christopher Mack <christopher_mack_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:

>>
>> Hello,
>> 
>> Over the past day or so I did the following with my
>> DeLorean
>> 
>> 1. jumpered the RPM relay - the fuel pump ran, but the
>> car did not start.. after several minutes of cranking
>> the engine I could smell gas in the engine
>> 
>> 2. checked voltages at the ballast resistor - all
>> normal
>> 3. checked voltages at the ignition coil - all normal
>> 4. checked for spark at igintion coil - no spark
>>    -based on my findings, the problem is most likely
>> either the ignition coil (unlikely since I hear these
>> rarely fail) or the distributor coil (I hear these are
>> a common failure item on Delorens)   Am I correct on
>> my diagnosis??  Plese let me know .. replacing the
>> distributor coil is out of my league as I don't have
>> the mechanical expereincce to pull the fuel
>> distributor and intake manifold off the engine to get
>> to the distributor  :(    If anyone has any
>> recommendations as what I should do next or if I did
>> anything wrong with my diagnosis, plese let me know
>> 
>> Thanks
>> 
>> Chris
>> #6453
>>








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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2005 05:22:54 -0800 (PST)
From: Christopher Mack <christopher_mack_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: vin 6453 update

Lawrence,

Where is the lamba and what coil are you referring to
?? the ignition coil or the pulse coil on the
dustributor??  Please let me know..

Thanks in advance

-Chris
#6453

--- Lawrence Lormand <lawrencesr_at_dml_netzero.net> wrote:


>> Chris,
>>  Check the wire from the Lamba to the coil !!! I
>> have fixed 2 already were the wire was 
>> pinched & cracked the insulation & seperated the
>> wire.
>> Lawrence 00538m & 00915a 
>> 
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Christopher Mack
>> <christopher_mack_at_dml_y...> 
>> wrote:
>
>>> >
>>> > Hello,
>>> > 
>>> > Over the past day or so I did the following with
>
>> my
>
>>> > DeLorean
>>> > 
>>> > 1. jumpered the RPM relay - the fuel pump ran, but
>
>> the
>
>>> > car did not start.. after several minutes of
>
>> cranking
>
>>> > the engine I could smell gas in the engine
>>> > 
>>> > 2. checked voltages at the ballast resistor - all
>>> > normal
>>> > 3. checked voltages at the ignition coil - all
>
>> normal
>
>>> > 4. checked for spark at igintion coil - no spark
>>> >    -based on my findings, the problem is most
>
>> likely
>
>>> > either the ignition coil (unlikely since I hear
>
>> these
>
>>> > rarely fail) or the distributor coil (I hear these
>
>> are
>
>>> > a common failure item on Delorens)   Am I correct
>
>> on
>
>>> > my diagnosis??  Plese let me know .. replacing the
>>> > distributor coil is out of my league as I don't
>
>> have
>
>>> > the mechanical expereincce to pull the fuel
>>> > distributor and intake manifold off the engine to
>
>> get
>
>>> > to the distributor  :(    If anyone has any
>>> > recommendations as what I should do next or if I
>
>> did
>
>>> > anything wrong with my diagnosis, plese let me
>
>> know
>
>>> > 
>>> > Thanks
>>> > 
>>> > Chris
>>> > #6453
>>> >
>
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> To address comments privately to the moderating
>> team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>> 
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
>> sale see www.dmcnews.com
>> 
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>> 
>> 
>>     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> 






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2005 09:09:42 -0800
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Insurance, stated value, daily drivers

With the recent discussions on insurance, I thought I'd ask:

Does anyone offer stated value coverage on DeLoreans that are used as
daily drivers?

Thus far, I have had no luck finding such coverage. I called virtually
every insurance company in my yellow pages, including several
"brokers" that deal with dozens of companies. None would insure a
DeLorean at stated value. The collector car companies won't touch
daily drivers.

So far I've been "risking it" with State Farm - they don't offer
stated value coverage. It's funny how you can pay top dollar for
insurance and still have no guarantees of being able to replace the
car in the event of an accident. I figure, in the event of an
accident, I'll have to sue them to get a fair settlement. I'd be much
happier if I had stated value coverage.

--
- Ryan
http://www.memfrag.com - Store your bookmarks. On every computer.


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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 03 Nov 2005 17:34:13 +0000
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Vinyl on SS

Toby is right on.

I did vinyl once also and being clean and warm are the two most important 
things.

Looks nice with the SS in my opinion.

Post pics if you do the hunting Delorean.

Jeff in NC



>>From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
>>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: [DML] Re: Vinyl on SS
>>Date: Thu, 03 Nov 2005 01:21:58 -0000
>>
>>Josh - I have applied self-adhesive vinyl in many ways and left it on
>>for up to 7 months with no ill effects.  The flag was the longest
>>running decoration.  The main issue is that you "super clean" the
>>stainless when you peel the vinyl off, leaving a spot that is
>>considerably cleaner and brighter colored than areas that were not
>>covered with the vinyl.  The color eventually returns to normal as the
>>oxide layer reforms and develops to its normal thickness.  Another
>>owner (who shall remain anonymous) applied cammo cloth to his DeLorean
>>using spray starch.  This was done in the very early '90's.  DO NOT do
>>this with starch.  The vinyl is fine, but cloth glued on with starch
>>will pit the stainless in a significant way.  The stainless must be
>>clean and dry for the vinyl to stick well, and having it warm is also a
>>plus, so that you can stretch the vinyl over the contours of the body.
>>
>>Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged" or "Spirit of America"
>>DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
>>www.delorean-parts.com
>>
>>
>>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Josh Porter" <joshp1986_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>
>>> >
>>> > A buddy of mine abd I were talking about DeLoreans and cammo, we were
>>> > at a hunting store buying cammo. We had the idea of wraping a
>
>>Delorean
>
>>> > in Mossy Oak cammo. It would be a promo thing for my mom's business
>>> > until the cammo started to crack then we would take it off and return
>>> > it to like it is now.----That is the conversation in a nut shell.
>>> >
>>> > I still like the old "United We Stand" DeLorean and that is what gave
>>> > us the idea. How well does vinyl stick to the sheet metal? I highly
>>> > doubt that we will do it but it sparked my curiousity. Although it
>>> > would be the favorite car down here. Everywhere you go there is
>
>>hunting cammo somehwere on vehicles.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>>
>>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>>Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>







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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Thu, 03 Nov 2005 10:11:24 -0800
From: Owen Emry <owen_at_dml_aerodrome.us>
Subject: high beam / low beam behavior

Question for you other owners out there about your headlights:

I've always thought that the high beams in the DeLorean would turn on _in addition to_ the low beams, but while replacing an expired bulb, I've discovered this isn't really true.  If I pull the want toward me to "flick" the high beams on momentarily, then yes, the high beams shine while the low beams are on, too (i.e. all four headlights).  However, if I push the wand away from me to turn the high beams on indefinitely, then the low beams shut off, leaving only the high beams shining.

Is this the normal behavior?

Thanks and best regards,
Owen Emry




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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 03 Nov 2005 18:40:26 -0000
From: "cupsdmc" <cupsdmc_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: SUNSHADE,LOUVRE broken

When I purchase my D this summer, the Sunshade louver was broken, and 
had a patch job hold the louver together with some epoxy.  It has 2 
clean breaks; 1 in the center and 1 on the left side. Has anyone made 
repairs to the louvre with any success? If so, how did you do it.  I 
have thought of JB Weld, and some grinding and repaint.  Any 
suggestions would be great.

Terry
1982 Vin 11572








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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 03 Nov 2005 21:28:40 -0000
From: "Eric" <hollywood2311_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: #4004 on ebay

Who cares?  It's a FLOODED car.  I seriously doubt that a few parts
here and there are going to make any difference whatsoever if someone
were to choose to restore this car.  


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_s...> wrote:

>>
>> Seems like he swapped parts onto his car and vise versa,(if you look 
>> close some parts are barely hanging in there)he put the better struts 
>> on his car,bad ones on 4004,in other words he took the good parts off 
>> of 4004 and put his crappy parts on 4004,(stripped it of any good 
>> useable items)in essense getting free parts and making a profit on 
>> top of that.You have to wonder HOW bad his parts were to swap from a 
>> water damaged car.Those seats were most likely from his car,as the 
>> seats that came with 4004 were just redone in Black Leather,Basically 
>> whoever wins it is getting a flooded car,with EVEN crappier parts 
>> than when it was flooded! Buyer beware!Here is a car that is going 
>> from bad to worse to junk??
>> cbl









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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 03 Nov 2005 21:37:47 -0000
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Steering wheel removal question

I tried pulling my steering wheel so that I could put in the new 
turn signal/horn arm and wiper control arm in. From waht I can see, 
i would need to pull the steering wheel, slide up the old, and slide 
in the new. Connect up the wires and I should be good to go (my 
wiper control amr is broken off, along with the underside of the 
steering column (thank you to PJGrady on the steering column) to be 
the only site I could find a replacement for. 

That aside, I pulled the centre nut off (it came off pretty easy) 
but when I used the steering wheel puller (Harmonics tool i think it 
is called) i "rented" from Autozone, and found that the screws/bolts 
it came with do not screw into the holes contained on the steering 
wheel towards the centre hub. 

Does anyone know what thread size and width for the bolt that I need 
to put in there in order to pull the wheel? I guess I could buy a 
whole bunch of bolts from ACE Hardware, and see what fits, but do 
not really want to spend the money on extra bolts i am just going to 
throw away 10 minutes after purchase. 

I have pulled them off of old American cars, no problem with the 
same tool, but the hole and thread size is different on the Delorean.









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Message: 25
Date: Thu, 03 Nov 2005 19:40:23 -0000
From: "cupsdmc" <cupsdmc_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Sender or the Gauge?

I had to replace the fuel sender when I purchased my did in August 
05'  It had been stored for 8 years with fuel in it.  The sender was 
gummed up.  I pull it and cleaned it to the best of my ability but 
it still only work part of the time and seem to be inaccurate all of 
the time.  I purchase a new one from delorean.com 

http://www.usadmc.com/dmcstore/ViewDir.asp?PageID=18&PageCat=2%
2DFuel+and+Emission+System parts and was up and running in no time. 

Specialtauto will rebuild yours for cheaper
Click on the links to see a photos; 
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/fuelsendunit.jpg

http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/fuel-send-unit-
used.jpg

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_h...> wrote:

>>
>> I have symptoms similar to Sal's, just no solution as of yet. 
>> 
>> In my case, the gauge is also pegged high when full and when it 
>> starts to come down, it's about 1/2 tank off from reality.  I use 

my 

>> 1/2 mark as Empty and the wild fluctuations I get between 1/2 and 
>> 1/4 as REALLY EMPTY.  :) 
>> 
>> If you are right, then my rheostat wire has also slipped down, 

just 

>> less than his. I am puzzled by your description vs. his statement 
>> that the windings appear to be evenly spaced.  It sounds like your 
>> senders do not have this appearance.
>> 
>> Sal, if you want to email me a digital photo of what yours looks 
>> like, I'll pull my sender and do the same.  I'll be working on the 
>> tank this weekend anyway, installing new pump boots. 
>> 
>> It shouldn't take much to determine if the relative appearances of 
>> the two senders somehow corresponds to their differences.  

Ideally, 

>> we'd also have a photo of a sender that is functioning perfectly. 
>> Any volunteers?
>> 
>> There is also the possibility, I guess, that we both have good 
>> senders and bad gauges.
>> 
>> Marv
>> #10820
>> 
>> 
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, mike clemens <rmclemns_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>
>>> >
>>> > Hi Sal,
>>> > 
>>> > Since no one else responded, I'll give you my
>>> > thoughts.  I've got three transmitters taken apart and
>>> > sitting in front of me.
>>> > 
>>> > All three exhibit a tendency for the rheostat wire to
>>> > slide to the bottom of the post that it is wrapped
>>> > around thus ending up with too many turns at the lower
>>> > end of the scale.  The wire does not appear to be
>>> > glued to the post, probably so the metal slide will
>>> > make good contact.  You can slide the wire back up the
>>> > post with your fingers, but I have found that gravity
>>> > will eventually cause it to fall back to the bottom.
>>> > 
>>> > My resistance readings are from one ohm to 100 ohms
>>> > one all three.  I don't have any voltage readings at
>>> > this time.  You can contact me offline if you have any
>>> > questions.
>>> > 
>>> > Mike
>>> > 
>>> > 
>>> > --- Steelwings <steelwings_at_dml_c...> wrote:
>>> > 
>>
>>>> > > I'm having a problem with either my fuel sender or
>>>> > > the gauge. I was hoping someone on the list might
>>>> > > give me the benefit of their experience with this as
>>>> > > I can find almost nothing in the archives. Here's
>>>> > > what is happening: I have a stock, 1981 original
>>>> > > gauge and sender. My tank is about half-full. The
>>>> > > fuel gauge is indicating an "above full" reading
>>>> > > with the low fuel warning light dimly lit. (The
>>>> > > needle is at the 12:00 o'clock position) If I remove
>>>> > > the sender and allow the float inside to fall to the
>>>> > > bottom of the tube, the needle will drop to the
>>>> > > "empty" mark and the fuel warning light will
>>>> > > illuminate normally. If I manually bring the float
>>>> > > up approximately 1/4 of its total travel up from
>>>> > > bottom, the gauge will read "Full" and any linear
>>>> > > increment below that point will deflect the needle
>>>> > > accordingly.(for instance: 1/8 of the total travel
>>>> > > from the bottom reads "half-full") I have removed
>>>> > > the sender and examined it visually both inside and
>>>> > > out. It appears to be in almost new condition. No
>>>> > > visible damage, no varnish or discoloration of the
>>>> > > plastic or metal components. The float and wipers
>>>> > > travel freely along the "rheostat" winding. The
>>>> > > windings appear to be evenly spaced and undamaged. I
>>>> > > placed a VOM across the wiper lead and winding lead.
>>>> > > At the bottom float position, it reads about 20ohms.
>>>> > > At the top float position, it reads about 100ohms.
>>>> > > Sliding the wiper along the winding , the readings
>>>> > > are linear. Then, in circuit, I took a voltage
>>>> > > reading across the leads. Black (ground) to Red
>>>> > > (Power) was approximately 12.5VDC. Then I checked
>>>> > > across black to yellow (the return) and I got the
>>>> > > following: With the needle on the gauge reading
>>>> > > "full" (4/4ths) with the float approximately 1/4 up
>>>> > > from the bottom of the tube, I read 6vdc. (That is:
>>>> > > 6 volts to cause the deflection to read exactly
>>>> > > full) at 1/8th the travel from the bottom, 3 volts
>>>> > > and so on. If I go beyond quarter of the way up from
>>>> > > the bottom, the voltage exceeds the 6 volts and the
>>>> > > needle will deflect beyond the full mark and
>>>> > > continue counter clockwise until it can't go any
>>>> > > further. All the way up (full travel) was about
>>>> > > 10vdc.  The circuit looks pretty simple but the
>>>> > > books don't give me any reference measurements to
>>>> > > compare. Has anyone ever measured the resistance of
>>>> > > the travel in the stock DMC sender? How many volts
>>>> > > will cause a full deflection in the gauge? Any
>>>> > > Ideas? Is it the gauge or the sender? Thanks in
>>>> > > advance for any advice you guys might have.
>>>> > > Sal
>>>> > > 
>>>> > > 
>>>> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been
>>>> > > removed]
>>>> > > 
>>>> > > 
>>>> > > 
>>>> > > 
>>>> > > 
>>>> > > To address comments privately to the moderating
>>>> > > team, please address:
>>>> > > moderators_at_dml_d...
>>>> > > 
>>>> > > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
>>>> > > sale see www.dmcnews.com
>>>> > > 
>>>> > > To search the archives or view files, log in at
>>>> > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>>>> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
>>>> > > 
>>>> > > 
>>>> > >     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>>> > > 
>>>> > >  
>>>> > > 
>>>> > > 
>>>> > > 
>>>> > > 
>>
>>> > 
>>> > 
>>> > 
>>> > 	
>>> > 		
>>> > __________________________________ 
>>> > Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 
>>> > http://mail.yahoo.com
>>> >
>
>>









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 26
Date: Thu, 03 Nov 2005 21:55:12 -0000
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Resonable Insurance Rates

That they do. If they did not, I would have switched insurance 
companies right there and then. (I also have 2 other cars on the same 
plan, am over 25 and have clean driving record).

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_g...> wrote:

>>
>> On 10/28/05, tom kasmer <tkasmer_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>
>>> > I had Progressive. Their rates are 3 times Geico. I
>>> > now have Geico
>
>> 
>> Geico insures your DeLorean?
>> 
>> --
>> - Ryan
>> http://www.memfrag.com - Store your bookmarks. On every computer.
>>










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