Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2968
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:4 Nov 2005 18:52:06 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. POR-15 available by mail order only?
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com

2. Re: dash cover
From: rodney rael <rodrael1_at_dml_gmail.com>

3. Re: high beam / low beam behavior
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>

4. RE: Cold Start Valve circuit
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>

5. 3 Quick Questions
From: "Robert J. Wilson" <rjwilson62_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Re: The Value of the DML (Formerly Fuel Sender)
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>

7. Two red wires near coil
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>

8. Boo-hoo parts
From: Oliver Holler <thehauntfactory_at_dml_att.net>

9. Re: RE: Steering wheel removal
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

10. I'm back!
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

11. Re: Cleaning up and upgrading
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>

12. RE: Cold Start Valve circuit
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>

13. Re: Delorean on Ebay
From: rodney rael <rodrael1_at_dml_gmail.com>

14. Re: #4004 on ebay
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

15. Must Sell: $15k FIRM
From: "Louie" <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>

16. Re: Fuel Sender or the Gauge?
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. LED update for the headlight/hazard/cigarette illumination ring
From: Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. Re: Steering wheel removal
From: "Christophe Vieira" <chris_delorean_at_dml_hotmail.com>

19. Re: 3 Quick Questions
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

20. Re: POR-15 available by mail order only?
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. RE: Must Sell: $15k FIRM
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>

22. DMCH Two tone seat covers- pics anyone?
From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

23. Re: 3 Quick Questions
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

24. Re: Re: Monroe Shock Cross Refrence #'s
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>

25. Re: high beam / low beam behavior
From: "Owen _at_dml_ Aerodrome" <owen_at_dml_aerodrome.us>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2005 21:19:43 EST
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: POR-15 available by mail order only?


Hello, 
 
Can anyone direct me to purchase POR-15 locally?
 
Sincerely,
Mike
 
NOTE:   THIS DOCUMENT MAY CONTAIN CONFIDENTIAL AND NONPUBLIC INFORMATION.  IT 
IS  INTENDED ONLY FOR THE USE OF THE INDIVIDUAL(S) OR ENTITY(IES) NAMED 
ABOVE, AND  OTHERS SPECIFICALLY AUTHORIZED TO RECEIVE IT.  If you are not the 
intended  recipient of this document, you are notified that any review, 
dissemination,  distribution or copying of this communication is prohibited.  If you have 
 received this communication in error, please notify me immediately by return 
 email, delete the electronic message and destroy any printed copies.  Thank  
you for your cooperation.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2005 19:22:17 -0800
From: rodney rael <rodrael1_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: dash cover

I WOULD ALSO LIKE A SET OF THREE
RODNEY
3300

On 10/31/05, delorean12_at_dml_comcast.net <delorean12_at_dml_comcast.net> wrote:

>> I would be interested in buying three (3).  I wonder if they would give us a
>> discount if we buy in bulk.  Brian, if you contact them and they offer a
>> bulk discount, count me in for 3.  Anyone else interested.
>>
>> Jason
>>
>> -------------- Original message --------------
>>
>
>>> > http://www.dashmats4less.com/index.htm?dashmats.html
>>> >
>>> > --- Brian Davis wrote:
>>> >
>>
>>>> > > Hi all, I am starting to get a crack in my dash
>>>> > > coming
>>>> > > off the corner of the glovebox. My question is where
>>>> > > can I buy a decent fitting black dash cover? Alos
>>>> > > best
>>>> > > place to get a new set of logo floormats? Thanks
>>>> > >
>>>> > >
>>>> > >
>>>> > >
>>>> > > __________________________________
>>>> > > Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005
>>>> > > http://mail.yahoo.com
>>>> > >
>>>> > >
>>>> > >
>>>> > >
>>>> > >
>>>> > > To address comments privately to the moderating
>>>> > > team, please address:
>>>> > > moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>>> > >
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>>>> > > sale see www.dmcnews.com
>>>> > >
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>>>> > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>>>> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
>>>> > >
>>>> > >
>>>> > > dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>>> > >
>>>> > >
>>>> > >
>>>> > >
>>>> > >
>>
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > __________________________________
>>> > Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005
>>> > http://mail.yahoo.com
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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>
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>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
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>>
>>
>>
>>
>>





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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 04 Nov 2005 04:26:35 -0000
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: high beam / low beam behavior

Checked on the way home tonight. Mine definitely work the way Chris 
described.

Did you install the proper bulbs for your low beams?

Marv
#10820

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Christopher Mack 
<christopher_mack_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>> When just the low beams are on only
>> the low beam filament receivves electricity.  When the
>> high beams are on, the high beam filament of the low
>> beam headlight and the high beam bulb both receive
>> electricity.  If you look atthe back of your low beam
>> headlight, you will notice that there are three
>> contacts (prongs) on the back of the bulb.  One
>> ground, one 12v+ for the high beam filament and one
>> 12v+ for the low beam filament.  
>> -Chris
>> #6453


>> --- Owen Emry <owen_at_dml_a...> wrote:
>> 
>
>>> > Question for you other owners out there about your
>>> > headlights:
>>> > 
>>> > I've always thought that the high beams in the
>>> > DeLorean would turn on _in addition to_ the low
>>> > beams, but while replacing an expired bulb, I've
>>> > discovered this isn't really true.  If I pull the
>>> > want toward me to "flick" the high beams on
>>> > momentarily, then yes, the high beams shine while
>>> > the low beams are on, too (i.e. all four
>>> > headlights).  However, if I push the wand away from
>>> > me to turn the high beams on indefinitely, then the
>>> > low beams shut off, leaving only the high beams
>>> > shining.
>>> > 
>>> > Is this the normal behavior?
>>> > 
>>> > Thanks and best regards,
>>> > Owen Emry
>>> > 
>>> > 
>>> > 
>>> > 
>>> > To address comments privately to the moderating
>>> > team, please address:
>>> > moderators_at_dml_d...
>>> > 
>>> > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
>>> > sale see www.dmcnews.com
>>> > 
>>> > To search the archives or view files, log in at
>>> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>>> > Yahoo! Groups Links
>>> > 
>>> > 
>>> >     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>> > 
>>> >  
>>> > 
>>> > 
>>> > 
>>> >
>
>>









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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2005 20:27:12 -0800
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: RE: Cold Start Valve circuit

<<Problem, the cold start valve does not open while cranking>>


Here's the latest.  My +12 is fine, it looks to be the ground portion of the
circuit.  When I Jumper out the temp sensor (which seems fine - has
continuity) the valve still does not open, but when I jump the blue black
wire at the temp sensor connector to ground the valve works normally.  

I'm confused a bit, why does white/Red run to the thermotime switch anyway?
The switch has its own ground through the waterpump to the engine.  When
cold this ground should complete the circuit for the cold start valve.  Why
is White/red even here?

Further, the diagram indicates that white/red and blue/black run to the cold
start valve first, then continue on over to the thermotime switch.  I
understand that the white/red from the starter must reach a splice point
where is splits to both the valve and the switch (though as per above I have
no idea why it goes to the switch) and that Blue black similarly splits to
both devices before it runs back to ground.  If I'm going to find bad
wiring, these splice points seem to be key, but they are not at the valve
per se as indicated, where are they?

I just know I've missed some crucial point here, and I'm due for a
school'in. This should be simple, and probably is - but I'm not getting
something...

Tom






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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 04 Nov 2005 02:49:27 -0000
From: "Robert J. Wilson" <rjwilson62_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: 3 Quick Questions

I am trying to "fix" 3 minor problems and need some information.

1.  The back-up lights do not function.  The lamps are good.  The 
ground circuit at the lamps is good.  The proper voltage is present 
on the fuse.  The fuse is good.  Looking at the schematic, I am 
suspecting the back-up switch or connections to it.  I have searched 
the manual.  The question is "Where is the back-up light switch 
located?"  

2.  I would like to "freshen-up" some spots on the leather on the 
driver's seat near where the left hand seat belt touches the seat.  
The interior is grey.  I think that I have heard of a matching 
leather dye that is available but can't locate a reference to it.  
Does anyone know where this is available?

3.  I have used "Armor All" on the black exterior trim (rear) and on 
the louvers over the engine compartment.  This does not stay bright 
and non-faded looking for long.  Is there a better product?

Thats what is on my mind at the moment.  Any help would be greatly 
appreciated.  See you at the show in St. Charles, Illinois next 
summer.

-- Bob Wilson








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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 04 Nov 2005 04:33:57 -0000
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: The Value of the DML (Formerly Fuel Sender)

It's all Mike's doing.  I was running way behind in getting my sender 
out of my tank (I had a full tank and was burning the fuel down a bit) 
to take photos.

When I'm replacing my fuel tank boots this weekend, I'll be sure to 
pull the sender and check the low light contact on mine. What exactly 
did you do to correct it?

Marv
#10820

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Steelwings" <steelwings_at_dml_c...> wrote:

>>
>> I just wanted publicly thank Mike Clemens and Marv Hien for helping 

me troubleshoot my fuel sender problem over the past few days. With the 
help of both, my fuel gauge is now functioning properly. Last 








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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2005 20:03:01 -0800
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: Two red wires near coil

When upgrading my coil I found two more red/XX wires chewed through by
rodents.  The come through the firewall near the coil, and land on the aft
most white nylon multipin connector, closest to the positive jump start
terminal.

I like to know what I'm working on when I splice rodent chewed wires - what
are these two?

Tom





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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2005 23:29:28 -0500
From: Oliver Holler <thehauntfactory_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Boo-hoo parts

I am thankful to own a DeLorean.
Recently, my pickup truck went in for service to investigate the fuel 
level sensor.
The estimate came back as a $700 repair.
(Needless to say, I'm not going to have it done!)

I've just got to shake my head and grin when DeLorean owners quibble 
over comparatively chump change differences between 'cheap' products 
and their more 'expensive' counterparts.

With today's gas prices, at least my truck's fuel needle always reads 
'Full' now -at no extra cost!  :) 
Oliver
10694





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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2005 00:05:31 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: RE: Steering wheel removal

 
In a message dated 11/3/2005 6:55:53 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
billsfanmd_at_dml_verizon.net writes:

wish I  had the exact thread size but I can't recall it. Someone mailed me
2 bolts  and I used them. They barely thread into the wheel. The problem is
the  length. It is very difficult to find that thread in the length you need.
My  steering puller kit came with 50 diff bolts and none worked! You need  to
take a bolt that has the right thread and then find it long enough at  the
store. Maybe someone on here can give you the exact bolt size. I think  True
Value or an older store has them. You are not alone in trying to find  the
bolts to do what is otherwise a simple job...

Good  luck

Mike C
2109


The bolt size is 8M.  Don't buy them too short OR too long, or  else the 
puller won't work right! Also - make sure you screw them in ALL  THE WAY or else 
you might strip the threads out of the steering wheel.
 
Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2005 00:15:15 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: I'm back!

Hey Group,
 
It has been awhile since I last had reliable internet access.  I  finally got 
that sorted out with my city's new wireless network and my laptop is  now 
fixed after 2 months of waiting for a motherboard!  Anyway, I hope to  able to 
read and respond to the list like I used to, and since I am pulling my  engine 
out this weekend, I'm sure I'll have plenty of new stuff to talk about  and 
need help on!
 
Just in case anyone thought I was dead ...
 
Andy Lien


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 04 Nov 2005 07:53:28 -0000
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Cleaning up and upgrading

Not sure what you mean by the support rod or the spring.

I had the same problem. The catch is adjustable.  Play with the 
adjustment until you have to push down and flex the cover a tiny bit in 
order to close and lock it... this flex provides some spring to pop the 
cover back up when you pull the handle.  At least it worked out well on 
my car. Not sure how long it will last... i.e., maybe the cover will 
assume a new shape and not spring again after awhile.

Another option I've seen someone use is to thread a cord or some other 
kind of handle through some of the vent openings in the cover so it can 
be lifted with your right hand while you operate the latch with your 
left.


Marv
#10820


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "lordshill1" <lordshill_at_dml_a...> wrote:

>> On my lower engine cover it still 
>> will not "pop up" when the latch is pulled.  It is not hiting the 
>> facia 
>> at all.  I noticed the support rod does not really go up fast and the 
>> spring seems to be unhooked.  Could this be the problem?  It takes 

two 

>> people to open the cover..1 to pull the latch and the other to lift 

the 

>> cover.  Any ideas?
>> 
>> Roy
>> #0893
>>









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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2005 00:07:04 -0800
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: RE: Cold Start Valve circuit

I gave up on the wiring diagram and found the schematic in the service
manual, now I get it.

It's very likely now that I actually was able to insulate the temp switch at
the waterpump by reinstalling it using Teflon tape.  Will test tomorrow
night.

If not, is there a problem with installing a spare relay into the hot start
socket till I get it sorted out?  I know the valve and the feed from the
starter are good so it should work - I'll just get rich/flooded if I crank
too long?





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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2005 19:00:48 -0800
From: rodney rael <rodrael1_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Delorean on Ebay

what is ebay item number?

rod
3300

On 11/1/05, Ed B. <mr.pants_at_dml_ca.inter.net> wrote:

>> Good point...   These guys don't usually post the questions & replies of
>> the auction so you're correct, it would just be giving them more ammo.
>> Report to eBay and hope they pull the auction before someone gets burned.
>> - ed
>>
>> 1982 DMC-12 [11594]
>> 1986.5 928S
>> 1990 Coupe Quattro 20V
>>
>>
>> geoff ombao wrote:
>>
>
>>> >Agreed, however ... better not to send the scammer any
>>> >information such as "no such thing as dual-airbag
>>> >DMC's ...". The less good info these people have, the
>>> >easier it is for informed consumers to spot a scam.
>>> >
>>> >- Geoff
>>> >
>>> >--- "Ed B." <mr.pants_at_dml_ca.inter.net> wrote:
>>> >
>>> >
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>>
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>





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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 04 Nov 2005 06:39:07 -0000
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: #4004 on ebay

It would have been better,IF the orignal seller got the 8K,Since he 
needed the cash more than the second buyer(to help get his life back 
together)but when faced with more serious problems,that was the least 
of his problems.I made the same mistake.Selling D's for a very small 
fraction of their true worth.I'm sure if the orignal seller saw the 
second auction,he was a little peeved,knowing he could have gotten at 
least 3K more for it.(and that was without the "new interior" he put 
into it,and with a crappy hood,and who knows what else.
cbl

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>>
>> Given the same opportunity i would probably do the same. I mean the 
>> stainless panels in and of themselves if in good cond are quite 
>> valuable. The frame if unrusted is also a good thing to have. 
>> 
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Eric" <hollywood2311_at_dml_g...> wrote:
>
>>> >
>>> > Who cares?  It's a FLOODED car.  I seriously doubt that a few 

parts

>>> > here and there are going to make any difference whatsoever if 
>
>> someone
>
>>> > were to choose to restore this car.  
>>> > 
>>> > 
>>> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_s...> wrote:
>>
>>>> > >
>>>> > > Seems like he swapped parts onto his car and vise versa,(if you 
>
>> look 
>
>>>> > > close some parts are barely hanging in there)he put the better 
>
>> struts 
>
>>>> > > on his car,bad ones on 4004,in other words he took the good 
>
>> parts off 
>
>>>> > > of 4004 and put his crappy parts on 4004,(stripped it of any 
>
>> good 
>
>>>> > > useable items)in essense getting free parts and making a profit 
>
>> on 
>
>>>> > > top of that.You have to wonder HOW bad his parts were to swap 
>
>> from a 
>
>>>> > > water damaged car.Those seats were most likely from his car,as 
>
>> the 
>
>>>> > > seats that came with 4004 were just redone in Black 
>
>> Leather,Basically 
>
>>>> > > whoever wins it is getting a flooded car,with EVEN crappier 
>
>> parts 
>
>>>> > > than when it was flooded! Buyer beware!Here is a car that is 
>
>> going 
>
>>>> > > from bad to worse to junk??
>>>> > > cbl
>>
>>> >
>
>>










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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 04 Nov 2005 08:11:27 -0000
From: "Louie" <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Must Sell: $15k FIRM

Hi Group,

My car has been for sale for a couple of months now, and I really 
need to sell her. I've been asking $20k/or best offer. But since I 
really need the cash I'm reducing the price to $15k FIRM. I'm 
confindent in saying you would be hard pressed to find a nicer car 
for the money. The car took second in it's category in Pigeon Forge, 
(75-100k miles) and if I would have actually cleaned it I have no 
doubts it could have taken first lol.

Too much money has been spent on this car to list everything, but it 
has all upgrades, recalls, and updates. It even has extensive 
service history through DeLorean Motor Center (nearly $20k was spent 
on the car for a restoration there in '98). The car is a true daily 
driver, it has 84k miles on it, and I drive it everywhere. It is a 
real automobile to me, and is treated as such. It is not coddled, 
but is still nicer than at least 3/4 of the DeLoreans I've 
encountered. I can email out detailed pics, and take requested 
photos as well. 

While it is a very nice looking car in most every way, it does have 
a few minor flaws. There is a crack on the drivers seat near the 
headrest, the binnacle is cracked, and there is one crack on the 
dash above the glovebox. Mechanically speaking it needs new front 
brake pads, an alignment, a shift linkage adjustment, and an A/C 
recharge. These are all very minor things that I would take care of 
myself if I had the time and money to do. None of these affects the 
car's ability to be driven or shown off though. Most everyone I've 
ever encountered has raved at how nice the car is.

While I am a tremendous fan of the car, and will own another 
DeLorean again down the road, it is time to let this one go. With 
everything going on in my life at the moment I need the money far 
more than I need the car. It's a hard decision to make, but one 
which I am not fretting about because I know with absolute certainty 
I will own another one (that will make DeLorean #3 for me, and I'm 
only 23 LOL!). If you think you would make a good home for my car, 
please email or call me at: Louie(AT)DeLorean.com or 704-591-2447.

Louie Golden
VIN 5252 Charlotte, NC








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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 04 Nov 2005 08:27:41 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Sender or the Gauge?

Just buy a new fuel sinder, very simple, problem solved.

www.pjgrady.com

or www.delorean.com


Plug it in, and forget about it, move on to something else.


-Joe O'Brien


2524,
16634,
16851











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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2005 00:35:04 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: LED update for the headlight/hazard/cigarette illumination ring


Hey everyone.

Dave has pretty much nailed the technical aspect of
this update.  I have a picture of my hazard switch
side by side with the headlight switch.  My hazard
switch has a LED in it; the headlight switch has an
incandesent bulb in it.  Both bulbs are lit up in the
picture; you all be the judges and let me know what
you all think.  The "side by side" picture is the
second one of the two posted.  Just scroll down until
you see the red triangle; you can't miss it.

http://tinyurl.com/auwr6

Jeremiah



	
		
__________________________________ 
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 
http://mail.yahoo.com





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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 04 Nov 2005 10:19:20 -0000
From: "Christophe Vieira" <chris_delorean_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Steering wheel removal

Hello,

On my car, i took off the steering column, the steering column in 
the left hand, a soft hammer (mallet) in the right. two good blows 
on each side of the steering wheel and that's it. You can do the 
same without dismounting the steering column.
It works even if the steering wheel is heavily blocked, simple and 
cheap.

Best regards,

Chris.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Mike Cohee" <billsfanmd_at_dml_v...> wrote:

>>
>> I wish I had the exact thread size but I can't recall it. Someone 

mailed me

>> 2 bolts and I used them. They barely thread into the wheel. The 

problem is

>> the length. It is very difficult to find that thread in the length 

you need.

>> My steering puller kit came with 50 diff bolts and none worked! 

You need to

>> take a bolt that has the right thread and then find it long enough 

at the

>> store. Maybe someone on here can give you the exact bolt size. I 

think True

>> Value or an older store has them. You are not alone in trying to 

find the

>> bolts to do what is otherwise a simple job...
>> 
>> Good luck
>> 
>> Mike C
>> 2109
>>










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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 04 Nov 2005 14:20:49 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: 3 Quick Questions

1. - the switch is located on the driver's side of the gearbox.  Look for two 
wires dangling nearby.  The switch has a very low failure rate, so the 
wires have probably been pulled loose.

2.  www. leatherique.com.  You are better off doing the entire
seat rather than just the area where the seatbelt has rubbed.

3.  Armour-all is terrible.  The  best solution for the sunshade is
to have it painted.  

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "Robert J. Wilson" <rjwilson62_at_dml_yahoo.com>: -------------- 



>> I am trying to "fix" 3 minor problems and need some information. 
>> 
>> 1. The back-up lights do not function. The lamps are good. The 
>> ground circuit at the lamps is good. The proper voltage is present 
>> on the fuse. The fuse is good. Looking at the schematic, I am 
>> suspecting the back-up switch or connections to it. I have searched 
>> the manual. The question is "Where is the back-up light switch 
>> located?" 
>> 
>> 2. I would like to "freshen-up" some spots on the leather on the 
>> driver's seat near where the left hand seat belt touches the seat. 
>> The interior is grey. I think that I have heard of a matching 
>> leather dye that is available but can't locate a reference to it. 
>> Does anyone know where this is available? 
>> 
>> 3. I have used "Armor All" on the black exterior trim (rear) and on 
>> the louvers over the engine compartment. This does not stay bright 
>> and non-faded looking for long. Is there a better product? 
>> 
>> Thats what is on my mind at the moment. Any help would be greatly 
>> appreciated. See you at the show in St. Charles, Illinois next 
>> summer. 
>> 
>> -- Bob Wilson 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2005 06:32:37 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: POR-15 available by mail order only?

When I bought it, I called the company and they gave
me the name of a local distributor.


--- Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com wrote:


>> 
>> Hello, 
>>  
>> Can anyone direct me to purchase POR-15 locally?
>>  
>> Sincerely,
>> Mike
>>



	
		
__________________________________ 
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 
http://mail.yahoo.com





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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 04 Nov 2005 14:01:58 +0000
From: "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: RE: Must Sell: $15k FIRM

I just want to throw my two cents in on this car for louie.

Quietest darn valve train I have ever heard and the car starts and drives 
perfect.  The minor details Louie mentioned are nothing but little items 
because of how the car drives.  I helped Louie do a large list of upgrades 
to the car last year.  I wanted to buy this vehicle myself but couldn't get 
the loan.  Even his wheels have been recoated and are among the brightest 
I've seen.  We had about 7 Deloreans get together once locally and Louie's 
car really stood out.

For 15K his car is a steal!  Check out the DCS website and you'll be able to 
confirm that he did place second in his mileage category.  The car hadn't 
been washed or detailed before he left for the PF Show but it still looked 
fabulous.  I agree that he woulda taken first if it had been detailed.  His 
frame is in great shape and looks good.  The stainless has been regrained 
and it has a great sheen to it and really shines.  Other than the few minor 
flaws in the interior it looks good and smells nice.  Doors shut very smooth 
and stay all the way up.  Seals are good all around.  Fascias were repainted 
a lighter silver color and look sharp.

I can go on and on with Louie about his car because I like it so much.  Pass 
the word around.  This car is a great daily driver that you can take 
anywhere.  He drove to and from PF in 04 with no problems along the way.

I'm sure he's got pics too if anyone wants to see them.  Car also has a 
thumping stereo upgrade in it with a woofer behind the drivers seat.  Sounds 
awesome!  Also has the hard to find Chameleon stereo head unit that 
disquises itself and was a perfect match for the Delorean styling.  I wanted 
that radio when I had a Delorean.

Anyhow, I hate that Louie has to sell his car but whoever buys it won't be 
disappointed.

Hope my response helps you out Louie!!





>>From: "Louie" <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>
>>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: [DML] Must Sell: $15k FIRM
>>Date: Fri, 04 Nov 2005 08:11:27 -0000
>>
>>Hi Group,
>>
>>My car has been for sale for a couple of months now, and I really
>>need to sell her. I've been asking $20k/or best offer. But since I
>>really need the cash I'm reducing the price to $15k FIRM. I'm
>>confindent in saying you would be hard pressed to find a nicer car
>>for the money. The car took second in it's category in Pigeon Forge,
>>(75-100k miles) and if I would have actually cleaned it I have no
>>doubts it could have taken first lol.
>>
>>





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2005 16:24:06 +0000 (GMT)
From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: DMCH Two tone seat covers- pics anyone?

Hi
Does anyone have a picture of the DMCH two-tone seat covers installed in a car? I cannot decide whether I would like them or not from the picture on the website
 
Thanks
Thomas McAuley
Vin #4087
Belfast

		
---------------------------------
How much free photo storage do you get? Store your holiday snaps for FREE with Yahoo! Photos. Get Yahoo! Photos

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 04 Nov 2005 14:48:42 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: 3 Quick Questions

Some "quick" answers:

1) If you have the 5-speed it is a switch in the side of the
transmission case. If it is an automatic it goes into the harness for
the shift computer and the switch is in the pan as part of the neutral
start circuit.

2) Look at Leatherique.com for their products

3) I like "Black Again". It lasts longer and is not greasy.

David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Robert J. Wilson" <rjwilson62_at_dml_y...>
wrote:

>>
>> I am trying to "fix" 3 minor problems and need some information.
>> 
>> 1.  The back-up lights do not function.  The lamps are good.  The 
>> ground circuit at the lamps is good.  The proper voltage is present 
>> on the fuse.  The fuse is good.  Looking at the schematic, I am 
>> suspecting the back-up switch or connections to it.  I have searched 
>> the manual.  The question is "Where is the back-up light switch 
>> located?"  
>> 
>> 2.  I would like to "freshen-up" some spots on the leather on the 
>> driver's seat near where the left hand seat belt touches the seat.  
>> The interior is grey.  I think that I have heard of a matching 
>> leather dye that is available but can't locate a reference to it.  
>> Does anyone know where this is available?
>> 
>> 3.  I have used "Armor All" on the black exterior trim (rear) and on 
>> the louvers over the engine compartment.  This does not stay bright 
>> and non-faded looking for long.  Is there a better product?
>> 
>> Thats what is on my mind at the moment.  Any help would be greatly 
>> appreciated.  See you at the show in St. Charles, Illinois next 
>> summer.
>> 
>> -- Bob Wilson
>>










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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2005 09:01:19 -0800
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Monroe Shock Cross Refrence #'s

If any one is interested in them, I have a brand new set of all 4 of  
the Monroes that are listed on the cross reference list and if   
someone wants to try them I'll get rid of them for $10 and shipping  
costs. Before I got around to installing them DMCH came out with  
their new shocks and I bought a set of them.
Phil Priestley

Vin 2105
IN FLUX

http://alessandros120.com/
(503)370-9951
1(866)225-7985


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 04 Nov 2005 08:02:15 -0800
From: "Owen _at_dml_ Aerodrome" <owen_at_dml_aerodrome.us>
Subject: Re: high beam / low beam behavior

Thanks for all the help, folks.

I've never replaced the low beam bulbs, but I'll have a look.  Given that they seem to work as prescribed when I pull the wand towards me, I'm more suspicious of the switch, but now that I know how it's _supposed_ to work I can start experimenting with the multimeter...

Just to confirm:  Are you saying that the wand-pull and wand-push behaviors should result in identical eletrical output?  Or is there any chance that pulling the wand turns on _all_ of the filaments?

Thanks again,
Owen



Marv Hein wrote:

>> Checked on the way home tonight. Mine definitely work the way Chris 
>> described.
>> 
>> Did you install the proper bulbs for your low beams?
>> 
>> Marv
>> #10820
>> 
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Christopher Mack 
>> <christopher_mack_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>> 
>
>>>>When just the low beams are on only
>>>>the low beam filament receivves electricity.  When the
>>>>high beams are on, the high beam filament of the low
>>>>beam headlight and the high beam bulb both receive
>>>>electricity.  If you look atthe back of your low beam
>>>>headlight, you will notice that there are three
>>>>contacts (prongs) on the back of the bulb.  One
>>>>ground, one 12v+ for the high beam filament and one
>>>>12v+ for the low beam filament.  
>>>>-Chris
>>>>#6453
>
>> 
>> 
>
>>>>--- Owen Emry <owen_at_dml_a...> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>
>>>>>>Question for you other owners out there about your
>>>>>>headlights:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>I've always thought that the high beams in the
>>>>>>DeLorean would turn on _in addition to_ the low
>>>>>>beams, but while replacing an expired bulb, I've
>>>>>>discovered this isn't really true.  If I pull the
>>>>>>want toward me to "flick" the high beams on
>>>>>>momentarily, then yes, the high beams shine while
>>>>>>the low beams are on, too (i.e. all four
>>>>>>headlights).  However, if I push the wand away from
>>>>>>me to turn the high beams on indefinitely, then the
>>>>>>low beams shut off, leaving only the high beams
>>>>>>shining.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Is this the normal behavior?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Thanks and best regards,
>>>>>>Owen Emry






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