Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2972
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:8 Nov 2005 02:28:38 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 18 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Collector car insurance & stained records
From: "Josh Porter" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. Re: Holy Crap I am Top Of The Vin List!!!!
From: Qumefox <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>

3. Angle Drive Removal
From: "Shain" <dsmguy_at_dml_ptd.net>

4. new DCS magazine on ebay...
From: "Josh Haldeman" <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>

5. my website for pics
From: "daren57" <daren57_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

6. Re: lambda warning
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

7. Re: I joined the engine pulling club
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

8. Re: BTTF pinball machine
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

9. How to pull an engine out (manual trans)
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

10. lambda warning & would like tech advice
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

11. Re: Boo-hoo parts
From: Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Re: DeLorean died and will not restart
From: "jmlaux83" <jmlaux83_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Re: Collector car insurance & stained records
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

14. Frequency Valve and ECM
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>

15. Re: Steering wheel removal
From: "Christophe Vieira" <chris_delorean_at_dml_hotmail.com>

16. Re: BTTF pinball machine
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

17. Testing the fuel accumulator
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>

18. Re: I joined the engine pulling club
From: "Qume Fox" <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 07 Nov 2005 01:53:34 -0000
From: "Josh Porter" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Collector car insurance & stained records

Can someone get collector car insurance with two traffic violations 
that are a few years old? I ask because I got my car driveable today 
and checked with Hagerty and did not see anything about it but read in 
it DeLoreans magazine. It has been over a year since the last ticket 
and three driving courses. The first ticket happened one week before 
DCS04. I have a daily driver so the DeLorean will only be used on 
weekends and shows, unless I get sponsored. Then it will be used for 
promos and daily driver.

Josh
10989








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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2005 20:35:09 -0600
From: Qumefox <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>
Subject: Re: Holy Crap I am Top Of The Vin List!!!!

alistairmccann wrote:


>>Hi everyone
>>
>>Just had a quick nosey at the vin list on the DMCNews site and my car
>>is top!!!!
>>
>>http://www.dmcnews.com/faq/img/news/n_vinlst.pdf
>>
>>The second best day of my life. Sorry third - Birth of son, getting
>>delorean and now top of vin list.
>>
>>My son is called Zachary by the way and he is 3 months old, and my
>>girlfriend still doesnt know who he is named after........God help me
>>if she ever finds out!
>>
>>Alistair McCann
>>Northern Ireland.
>>
>>
>>

Who maintains this list? 3209 isn't in Des Moines, IA anymore.. I bought
it in july. It now resides in Jackson, TN

Just wondering who I need to submit this information to, and also what
else is needed. The hood has groves, but no gas flap. I should know. its
leaning against the wall right behind me :P

--

Chris
VIN# 03209
http://badger.brazi.net/index.pl/delorean



--
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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2005 22:03:16 -0500
From: "Shain" <dsmguy_at_dml_ptd.net>
Subject: Angle Drive Removal

Could anyone tell me how to safely remove the angle drive.  I have my hub
assembly off of my car to install some new bearings,  and would like to
remove the drive so I can por-15 the hub.  Thanks a lot.

-Shain







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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2005 23:46:00 -0500
From: "Josh Haldeman" <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>
Subject: new DCS magazine on ebay...

Hey guys,

Just wanted to let everyone know I put up a copy of the new issue of DeLorean Car Show magazine on an ebay auction with no reserve.  Check it out, if you're interested in looking into what our magazine has to offer, and don't currently subscribe, here's a good chance to check it out.

Also, all the back issues are now up on the ebay store.  That site's address again is:

http://tinyurl.com/cm2dt

Type "magazine" into the search engine on the left and they will all come up.  

Still have a lot of DeLorean parts left too, including a nice complete manual transmission...let me know if I can help with anything.

All my best,
Josh


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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 07 Nov 2005 10:53:48 -0000
From: "daren57" <daren57_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: my website for pics

take a look at www.oldcarstuff.co.uk

use a valid email address for your username.








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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 07 Nov 2005 04:08:51 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: lambda warning

Assuming you did all this work correctly I would guess the frequency
valve is NOT buzzing. You might also need to adjust the mixture screw.
The warning light has no effect except to advise you to get a tune-up
based on mileage.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sfdelorean" <sfdelorean_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>>
>> Have just stated a 1982 for the first time since 1992. New fuel pump
>> cleaned tank, ran sea foam thru system, then replaced fuel
>> distributor, injectors and warm up regulator that had 3000 miles since
>> rebuild.  Car will start but lambda warning light comes on and RPM's
>> are limited and car appears to loose power and not idle up after a few
>> hundred yards. Help!
>>









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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2005 21:39:41 -0800
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: I joined the engine pulling club

On 11/6/05, Soma576_at_dml_aol.com <Soma576_at_dml_aol.com> wrote:

>>
>> This weekend was a complete success for VIN 11596. The operation? The goal
>> of removing the engine and transmission, separating the transmission, and
>> mounting the engine on an engine stand beginning at 11:30 AM Saturday and
>> finishing no later then 10am Sunday. And yes, we got 8 hours of sleep in
>> too!



Congratulations, Andy. I may be doing the same to my car some day, just to
really clean things up, replace the exhaust, etc.

Out of curiosity, does the engine come out the top or the bottom? With the
transmission still attached it had to have come out the bottom, but if that
were removed beforehand, can the engine be pulled out the top?

What did you use to lift the back of the car high enough to get the engine
out from underneath it?

The last time I replaced an engine in a car it was a Fiero; the engine came
out the bottom. It was not fun. Getting the car high enough to move the
engine out from underneath it was even less fun. The point where my cherry
picker, which was being used to lift the back of the car, lifted itself off
the ground while I was standing on it - that was terrifying.  ;-) 

--
- Ryan
http://www.memfrag.com - Store your bookmarks. On every computer.


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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 07 Nov 2005 04:31:14 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: BTTF pinball machine

I have 2 of them, one is for sale. $1400 is a good price IF it has
been "shopped". Shopped, meaning all rubber replaced, flippers
rebuilt, broken plastic repaired or replaced, all new bulbs, all fuses
checked, highest level of firmware, new batteries, new cordset, new
speakers, new balls. The cabinet should not be carved up and the legs
not rusty. Everything cleaned and the playfield polished. All the
functions should work, including the coin mechs. Also get the manual,
keys, and extra fuses and bulbs and polish. Be careful about getting a
"reimport". Many pinball machines are coming back from Europe. What
this means is that they were converted to 220 volts and were really
beat up between lousey repairs and shipping damage. It takes a lot of
work to get a "reimport" going right again but it can be done. Many of
the parts can still be obtained. The plastics, the backglass, and the
ramps are among the hardest to get. Most of the other parts were
generic so you can get them out of other machines like rubbers,
flippers, balls, electronics, etc. Check out the display to make sure
ALL the segments still work. The glass display tube is EXPENSIVE and
difficult to replace. Check the power board and see if any connectors
are burnt.
  The reason MJF does not appear on the machine was due to bad timing.
They were not able to get his permission in time for production. There
was no dispute.
  The game is fun to play. It is a very rugged machine and once fixed
up still is able to give a good time. It is not the "best" pin every
built, most would say Adam's Family would be. BTW the one I have for
sale is $2,000 and it has been thourghly shopped. Wholesale this pin
goes for $1795 now. Shipping not included. For those of you with a
BTTF The Pinball I can get you the highest rev firmware with a reprint
of the complete manual. I can also tell you where to go for parts.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...> wrote:

>>
>> I actually own one of these, and it is a really cool.
>> The price is about right if it is in really god condition.
>> 








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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2005 00:38:29 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: How to pull an engine out (manual trans)

Hey Group,
 
Like I said earlier, I will now try and list - in order - all the things we  
had to do in order to remove the engine from my car.  I hope this list is  
complete and it might help someone else do the work some day too.  If I  forgot 
anything, hopefully someone will point it out!
 
I'm sure there are other ways to do it (like avoiding removing the rear  
fascia) but this is how I did it as a first-timer, so I worked conservatively,  as 
I assume anyone who can benefit from this would also be trying to  work!!  
Also mine is a manual transmission. Any subtleties with an auto are  not my area 
of experience.
 
Needed tools that you cannot live without:
1. Metric sockets up to 19mm (plus a 36mm) in both standard and deep well -  
in 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" sizes as well as assorted extensions and a long 1/2"  
breaker bar. Swivels weren't needed.
2. Metric wrenches up to 19mm and a 15/16" standard wrench  for crossgate 
cable (or whatever the equiv metric size is)
3. #1 and #2 flat head and phillips screwdrivers.
4. 1/4" and 5/16" nut drivers are handy for hose clamps but not  necessary.
5. 6mm allen wrench for removing clutch from transmission.
6. Floor jack and 2 jackstands
7. oil change pan, preferably wide diameter
8. engine stand (found at harbor freight on sale for $29) and 10M bolts  
(they have a 17mm head on them) for mounting the engine to the stand. More  on 
this later.
9. Propane torch may be necessary on the exhaust, hammer is useful  too.
10. utility knife and wire snippers for cutting zip ties
11. PB Blaster!
12. Plenty of light. I wound up installing fluorescent lights in my garage  
as well as buying a 1000 watt halogen work light on a tripod which was a VERY  
smart idea.  A trouble light will probably be needed too.
13. Of course an engine hoist/cherry picker. I rented one for $40. If you  
are doing a lot of work on the car you might want to rent it for one day to  
remove the engine and then rent it again when you are ready to put it back in.  
Why pay for it while you aren't using it? They disassemble and the parts will  
fit in a minivan or pickup truck.  A load leveler on the hoist may be  helpful 
but is not necessary. 
14. At least one other set of hands to help maneuver the engine once you  try 
taking it out.
15. A couple of ice cube trays to put fasteners into and you can make a  
chart to keep track of them.
 
 
On to the engine removal - 
1. Remove battery
2. Remove axles
3. Drain coolant from main lines under car by separating the rubber link  
hoses from the metal pipes. 
4. Remove louvers and engine cover w/ cover stay
5. Remove taillight lenses, the harness for the taillights from the  
bulkhead, the engine cover release latch and cable, then pull fascia off after  you 
remove the two bolts per side that run front-to-back. You don't have to  remove 
the sideways bolts that go into the pontoon.
6. remove starter wires
7. remove belts
8. remove alternator wires and alternator
9. remove exhaust muffler heatshield
10. remove the three muffler brackets. muffler will stay on cat  pipe.
11. remove muffler from cat pipe by removing the U-clamp and sliding  muffler 
off cat pipe.
12. remove air filter box and air intake hoses from black plastic pontoon  
adaptor. Also remove the hose that goes up from the heatstove.
13. Remove coolant self-bleeder if equipped. 
14. Remove throttle cable from spindle and pull the sheath out of the  
throttle guide. Position out of the way.
15. Remove A/C compressor and try to get it on top of the pontoon. You can  
get it up and out of the way of the engine w/o removing it.
16. Remove coolant hose from left side of water pump, and remove the hose  
and metal pipe all the way down to the rubber hose under the car. Don't forget  
to disconnect the otterstat wires and now is a good time to disconnect the  
impulse coil wire (the yellow connector between the otterstat and wall under the 
 rear window).
17. Remove the coolant hose from the right side of the waterpump. Coolant  
will come out so put your catch pan under the engine. Remove this hose all the  
way to the rubber joint under the car and also remove the hose that goes to 
the  overflow.
18. Try and remove the heater hoses that go to the back of the engine. One  
goes to the valley of death, another to the heater control valve. The clamps on 
 these were so bad I had to cut the hoses off.  Remove the vacuum line from  
the heater control valve. Remove the hose that goes to the radiator cap  vent.
19. Remove the main vacuum line from the back right side of the intake  
manifold.
20. Remove the evap emission vacuum lines.
21. remove the ground wire that goes just underneath the ignition  resistors. 
22. remove the ignition coil, the coil wire, and unplug all the connectors  
to the bulkhead junction.  
23. unplug the white connector in the center of the firewall along that  wire 
loom. it supplies wires to the advance solenoid, the frequency valve, and a  
couple other parts.
24. remove the cross brace from behind the engine.
25. Get under the car and remove the lambda sensor, the wires to the  reverse 
switch,  the clutch linkage, the shifter cable (by unscrewing the  nuts that 
hold it to the bracket all of the way) and also the clutch line from  the top 
of the tranny.  Catch the fluid with your drip pan and a  towel.
26. remove the two bolts that hold the transmission mounts to the  frame.  
27. remove the three bolts that hold the tranny mounts to the  transmission.  
the transmission and the engine will now rock back slightly.  Remove the nuts 
and washers on the engine mounts as well as the engine to frame  ground from 
the motor.
28. remove the two main fuel lines from the back of the fuel  distributor.
29. position the cherry picker over the engine and attach the chains to the  
rear pull eyelets
30. begin lifting the hoist until the chains are taut.  Make sure the  chains 
aren't hitting anything like the idle speed motor.  once you are  sure 
everything is ok, start putting some more force on the engine until the  body starts 
to come up just a touch with the motor.  At this point the  engine is 
probably stuck in the motor mounts and if you keep pulling up, you  will either break 
the mounts, the rubber, or the engine casting (not good). Take  your trusty 
hammer and keep hitting the mounts from the top until they start to  slide up.  
After the engine has come out a little, put more pressure on and  repeat 
until the engine is free of the motor mounts. 
31. Look around the back of the engine for any misc. wires or hoses you may  
have missed.  Perhaps a PO did something funky that I cannot account  for. 
32. lift the engine up and pull it forward until the crankshaft pulley  is 
close to the frame.  watch out for the exhaust crossover pipe and it's  
heatshields.  As soon as you get those clear of the firewall, you might get  the 
bracket that holds the solid clutchline to the top of the trans stuck under  there. 
Maneuver as necessary.
33. To get the engine and trans out, the idea is to tip the tranny back and  
the front of the engine up so you are at about a 45 degree angle.  Here is  
where the 2nd person really comes in handy. one person can lift up on the engine 
 while another cranks the hoist. Continue cranking until the transmission is  
clear of the firewall and remove from engine compartment.  You will see  that 
the engine balances from the rear chain eyelets with the transmission  
connected to it.
 
OK, so now the engine is just hanging here. now what?  Well you  probably 
want to get the engine on an engine stand. That means removing the  transmission 
and clutch. Here's how I did it:
 
1. lower the engine a ways on the hoist until you can get jackstands under  
the front edge of the oil pan. You may need to shim them up with cardboard or  
something thin and hard so they are the same level along the back of the  pan. 
 you will be putting the stands pretty much right on the oil pan  bolts, or 
maybe between the bolts depending on what kind of stands you have.  This is 
needed because when you remove the tranny, the engine will want to tip  
backwards. The jackstands will keep it from doing this.
2. remove the exhaust crossover pipe!
3. lower the engine so it's weight is on the jackstands, but only slightly. 
4. position a floor jack under the transmission about in the middle of it,  
maybe a little further from the bellhousing. 
5. manipulating the hoist and floor jack, try to get the trans and engine  
perfectly level. watch your jackstands so they don't move.
6. remove the 3 starter mounting bolts from the transmission.
7. remove the 4 main bolts very slowly - have your friend watch the  
jackstands and help watch transmission so it stays level. 
8. before separating (which may take a hammer to jar the trans loose), have  
someone hold the engine steady on the stands. the other person can take the  
bolts out and wheel the tranny away from the engine on the floorjack. 
9. If you did a good job with the hoist, the engine should be able to  stay 
where it is by itself with support from the stands and hoist. 
10. Next we took the clutch off. We had to use PB Blaster, a propane torch,  
and a big wrench on the end of the allen wrench for extra leverage.  The  
other person had to hold the crankshaft pulley with a breaker bar and 36mm  socket 
to keep the clutch from spinning.  Apparently mine was tighter than  normal.
11. after the clutch was off, we had to get the chains repositioned so we  
could lift the engine level by itself in order to get the engine to mate to the  
engine stand. we did this by putting the trans back on the floor  jack and 
connecting it to the engine again for weight distribution (since  there was no 
clutch, we didn't have to be careful reconnecting it).  Then  we lifted the 
whole unit up a bit, took away the jack stands, and lowered the  motor to the 
ground until the engine and trans were pivoting on the floor by the  oil pan. We 
got it as level as possible and removed the tranny again, leaving  the engine 
sitting on the floor. We slackened the chains and moved the rear  chain that 
was on the air filter side to the front eye hook. so the chains went  to 
diagonal corners. Now we lifted the engine again with the hoist off the floor  and 
it was balanced well enough to bolt up to the engine stand. Note that the  
bolts that hold the tranny to the engine were not long enough to go through  the 
engine stand and into the engine more than a 1/4".  We wound up buying  longer 
bolts that were about a centimeter longer, which worked great.  
 
The biggest hang-ups we had were getting the engine to pull out of the  lower 
mounts (took about 30 min of head-scratching and hammer pounding) and then  
it took quite a while to get the clutch off, but that was because my allen  
screws were probably overtightened when my clutch was installed 4 years  ago.  
Exhaust system was easy because I had disassembled that not too long  ago, trans 
wasn't hard because it got a clutch job already, coolant, fuel, and  vacuum 
lines were easy because they were all replaced in the last five  years.  Surely 
this would have taken longer if these parts hadn't been  touched in many many 
years. Total time was about 12 hours.  Now that I know  what to do, I'm sure 
I could do it in 8 next time, and probably 5 or  6 the 3rd time with a helper 
or two.
 
Well, this is probably 99% complete. I may have forgotten one or  two minor 
details here but there is certainly WAY more stuff here than the  shop manual 
has (and it leaves out a lot of important stuff!!).  I  hope this post is 
helpful to anyone who decides they need to pull  their engine out.  
 
Good Luck!
Andy Lien
 
Fargo, ND  
1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2005 22:59:51 EST
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: lambda warning & would like tech advice

 
OK, I'll tackle the easy one first.
 
The Lambda Light is controlled by, the Lambda Counter, a device that is  
connected to the speedometer cable.  It's sole purpose in life is to supply  +12 
Volts to turn on the Lambda Light, when it measures that the car has  traveled 
30,000 miles.  When it turns on you can reset it by turning the  little 
plastic "bump" on its side that has two little indentations in it.   BTW it is 
located under the dash.  You can't miss it as it has the  speedometer cable going 
into and another one coming out of it. It has a little  window that displays a 
number which should be the percent of 30,000, ie if the  car has 15,000 miles 
it would read 50 (%).
 
Regarding the second question...
 
Please tell me (us) what sea foam is?  Have you replaced the fuel  filter?
 
What do you mean by..."and RPM's are limited"
and ..."car appears to loose power and not idle  up after a few hundred 
yards. "
 
Dē & 6530
Dave Delman
 
BTW Do you have a set of manuals for the car?  If not you  should!
 
Date: Sun, 06 Nov 2005 03:45:36 -0000
From: "sfdelorean"  <sfdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: lambda warning

Have just stated  a 1982 for the first time since 1992. New fuel pump
cleaned tank, ran sea  foam thru system, then replaced fuel
distributor, injectors and warm up  regulator that had 3000 miles since
rebuild.  Car will start but lambda  warning light comes on and RPM's
are limited and car appears to loose power  and not idle up after a few
hundred yards. Help!
 
Subject: would like tech advice

Have several issues with a Delorean  in Lakeview NC. As I am a slow
typist would like to speak with someone in  Ref. Lambda Light etc. Will
call or I am at 910-797-3532. Thanks Jim
 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2005 05:44:24 -0800 (PST)
From: Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Boo-hoo parts

Oliver, I have had the same thought regarding  replacement part prices.  Many cars and pickup trucks now have fuel pump/fuel sender units combined. When one side fails you replace the entire unit, sometimes costing $500 to $700.  Contrast that with the DMC fuel pump and fuel sender prices from our vendors.   
Rod 10921
----------
Oliver Holler <thehauntfactory_at_dml_att.net> wrote:I am thankful to own a DeLorean. Recently, my pickup truck went in for service to investigate the fuel level sensor. The estimate came back as a $700 repair.

I've just got to shake my head and grin when DeLorean owners quibble 
over comparatively chump change differences between 'cheap' products 
and their more 'expensive' counterparts.




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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 07 Nov 2005 16:39:41 -0000
From: "jmlaux83" <jmlaux83_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DeLorean died and will not restart

Had it happen to me too. Was driving and the car slowly started to 
decelerate, then stopped running and it wouldn't start again. Tried 
everything on the roadside to get it to start (checked battery, the 
inerta switch, tried jumping the inertia switch, adjusted air fuel 
mix), found out later it was the fuel pump. Had to buy a new one. 
The worse part was having to push it home up hill.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_d...> wrote:

>>
>> It must be Karma. A customer's car did that to him last night too -
>> jammed fuel pump.






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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2005 12:44:54 -0600
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Collector car insurance & stained records

Call the insurance company and ask, use a different name of course and 
different type of car. Call back later with your real name if they 
allow traffic violations then.

Mark V


On Nov 6, 2005, at 7:53 PM, Josh Porter wrote:


>> Can someone get collector car insurance with two traffic violations
>> that are a few years old? 





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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2005 12:21:55 -0800
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: Frequency Valve and ECM

 My frequency valve is not running.  I have +12V on the red/pink ,  when
I jump red/brown to ground the valve opens.  I think this tells me the
rpm relay and all wiring for the +12 are fine.

I've ordered a dwell meter and should have it in a few days.  In the
meantime it looks like all the ground and other wires seem ok.  The
connector at the ECU looks like a pain.  

I have not pulled it off but it looks like its tough to ring out the
unit while its running at the ECU due to the style of the plug.  Any
tips for this?  I'm assuming I need to check all grounds at the ECU.
Check incoming voltages, check the voltage (or impedance) for the oxygen
sensor wire (what are nominal values?) , and then when I have the meter
check the dwell on the output to the frequency valve.  I assume that the
connector at the ECU pulls straight up and off - no releases or catches?

The easiest next step may be to swap out the ECU itself.  If I stop by
the salvage yard and pick up a $10 unit from a Volvo, is it compatible?

Tom
10902




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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 07 Nov 2005 21:14:00 -0000
From: "Christophe Vieira" <chris_delorean_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Steering wheel removal

If you let Robocop doing the job with a 5kg hammer, may be...

You can use this method as long as you do not use the hammer the same
way you will use it to detroy a wall.

This way, you can extract the steering wheels in seconds without any
kind of damage on the steering wheel (even on the leather) or the
steering column.
And at least, I do not think that a hammer blow will not make a
difference in a serious crash, some kg vs tons.

Best regards,

Chris.
#04271/DL1981.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_o...> wrote:

>>
>> It is not such a great idea to use a hammer on the steering wheel. You
>> could bend the wheel itself or even worse, damage the steering column.
>> The column is made so it can collapse in the event of a serious front
>> crash. Hammering on it can bend or otherwise damage it so that it
>> would not work when you need it the most! Using a puller is the proper
>> way to go. Chances are you will have to drill out and retap in most
>> cases because a P.O. f-cked up the tapped holes anyway. Before
>> removing the wheel and after removing the nut BE SURE TO MARK THE
>> EXACT LOCATION OF THE WHEEL RELATIVE TO THE SHAFT. Failure to do this
>> may result in not having the steering wheel in the "straight ahead"
>> position when driving straight down the road. Of course this assumes
>> it was in the correct position to begin with!
>> David Teitelbaum
>> vin 10757
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Christophe Vieira"
>> <chris_delorean_at_dml_h...> wrote:
>
>>> >
>>> > Hello,
>>> > 
>>> > On my car, i took off the steering column, the steering column in 
>>> > the left hand, a soft hammer (mallet) in the right. two good blows 
>>> > on each side of the steering wheel and that's it. You can do the 
>>> > same without dismounting the steering column.
>>> > It works even if the steering wheel is heavily blocked, simple and 
>>> >
>
>>










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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 07 Nov 2005 14:41:14 -0600
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: BTTF pinball machine

That's intersting info.
Mine was an import from Germany and still has German instructions on it, and 
set up for German coinage, it went from there to Texas, then to Canada, and 
then back here to Texas.
It has been all over the world but it is in fantastic shape.
One item that often breaks on these is the three drop targets, these are 
three white panels
with drawings of "fire" on them. They get brittle and snap, but are cheap 
and easy to replace.
I have posted scans of the graphic that go on the targets so you can print 
them out and glue
them to the replacements. They are located on my website:
http://bttfstuff.netfirms.com/phpbb/nfphpbb/viewtopic.php?t=19

This is a fun pinball, but not one of these best.
I already own one of my other favorites, which was the best seller of 1989,
"Elvira and the Party Monsters". However Dave is right, "The Addams Family" 
is one of the
most sought after. I think it is the "Galaga" of the pinball world.
What made it so special was a giant magnet that would grab the ball in the 
middle of the playfield
and throw the ball around. I don't think I have ever seen that on another 
machine.

Anyway, if you are a BTTF fan or just a DeLorean fan, the BTTF pinball is 
cool to have.
There is a lot of DeLorean signage on the game, including the need to spell 
out such things
as "D-E-L-O-R-E-A-N" and "DMC", etc...

Here are some pics:

http://www.bttfstuff.netfirms.com/img/126f1.jpg

http://www.bttfstuff.netfirms.com/img/126f2.jpg

http://www.bttfstuff.netfirms.com/img/image-10.jpg

- Videobob
VIN#5278 Time Machine


>>From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
>>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: Re: [DML] BTTF pinball machine
>>Date: Mon, 07 Nov 2005 04:31:14 -0000
>>
>>I have 2 of them, one is for sale. $1400 is a good price IF it has
>>been "shopped". Shopped, meaning all rubber replaced, flippers
>>rebuilt, broken plastic repaired or replaced, all new bulbs, all fuses
>>checked, highest level of firmware, new batteries, new cordset, new
>>speakers, new balls. The cabinet should not be carved up and the legs
>>not rusty. Everything cleaned and the playfield polished. All the
>>functions should work, including the coin mechs. Also get the manual,
>>keys, and extra fuses and bulbs and polish. Be careful about getting a
>>"reimport". Many pinball machines are coming back from Europe. What
>>this means is that they were converted to 220 volts and were really
>>beat up between lousey repairs and shipping damage. It takes a lot of
>>work to get a "reimport" going right again but it can be done. Many of
>>the parts can still be obtained. The plastics, the backglass, and the
>>ramps are among the hardest to get. Most of the other parts were
>>generic so you can get them out of other machines like rubbers,
>>flippers, balls, electronics, etc. Check out the display to make sure
>>ALL the segments still work. The glass display tube is EXPENSIVE and
>>difficult to replace. Check the power board and see if any connectors
>>are burnt.
>>   The reason MJF does not appear on the machine was due to bad timing.
>>They were not able to get his permission in time for production. There
>>was no dispute.
>>   The game is fun to play. It is a very rugged machine and once fixed
>>up still is able to give a good time. It is not the "best" pin every
>>built, most would say Adam's Family would be. BTW the one I have for
>>sale is $2,000 and it has been thourghly shopped. Wholesale this pin
>>goes for $1795 now. Shipping not included. For those of you with a
>>BTTF The Pinball I can get you the highest rev firmware with a reprint
>>of the complete manual. I can also tell you where to go for parts.
>>David Teitelbaum
>>vin 10757
>>
>>
>>-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...> wrote:
>
>>> >
>>> > I actually own one of these, and it is a really cool.
>>> > The price is about right if it is in really god condition.





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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 07 Nov 2005 20:43:22 -0000
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Testing the fuel accumulator

Hello all  :) 
  I'm having the typical hot restart problem after my D sits for about 
45 minutes after being brought to operating temp.  I suspect that after 
25 years my accumulator has thrown in the towel.  
  Here's what I did to see if the accumulator was still working;
I hooked up my pressure gauge to check the operating pressure, then I 
put the vent line from my pressure gauge into a container and vented 
immediately after shutting off the engine.  I only got about a 
tablespoon of fuel.  I would think that the accumulator should store 
more than that if it was working.  I've also checked to make sure that 
the system can hold pressure, no bleed down through the pump or 
regulator.
  Can anyone see any problems with my diagnosis?

Matt Smith







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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 07 Nov 2005 22:05:26 -0000
From: "Qume Fox" <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>
Subject: Re: I joined the engine pulling club

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_g...> 
wrote:


>> Out of curiosity, does the engine come out the top or the bottom? With 

the

>> transmission still attached it had to have come out the bottom, but if that
>> were removed beforehand, can the engine be pulled out the top?
>> 
>> What did you use to lift the back of the car high enough to get the engine
>> out from underneath it?


After having pulled the engine and trans in my own D.  I can answer this 
with confidence. The engine and trans comes out the top. There is no way 
to get it out the bottom.  Some helpful hints about making this process a bit 
smoother are: 

1) Remove the rear fascia and the panel behind it. That opens up the 
whole back of the car and gives you lots of room to get the engine out. 
Getting the fascia off actually isn't that much of a chore. I recommend 
pulling it to do any in depth engine work. (Here's a pic of mine without the 
rear fascia. 2nd picture down http://badger.brazi.net/index.pl/week_2 )

2) Unbolt the motor mounts from the frame instead of seperating the two 
halfs of it.. This might be a pain to do. I don't remember, as it's been 
awhile since I pulled mine, but if you can manage it it'll keep you from 
having to lift the engine as high. I think it also makes putting it back in a bit 
easier as well. 

3) Pull the engine and trans as one piece then seperate them after they're 
out, if you need to. Some of the flywheel covers are a real pain to get to 
while the engine's in, and even after you get all the covers off so the 
engine and trans will seperate you'll be playing with it for hours trying to 
get it apart reguardless. (I know.. I seperated them and pulled the engine 
by itself.. it was a royal pain and in the end I was wishing i'd just listened 
to what others told me and pulled the thing as one piece.)

Chris
VIN# 3209
http://badger.brazi.net/index.pl/delorean








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