Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2975
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:10 Nov 2005 01:26:08 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 21 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Clean out Fuel distributor
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

2. Bilstein Shocks
From: "Shain Brannan" <dsmguy_at_dml_ptd.net>

3. RE: Possible Alternator trouble and more
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

4. floor mats
From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>

5. Re: Where to Send Delorean Information
From: mike clemens <rmclemns_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. : Re: lambda warning
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

7. Re: Possible Alternator trouble and more
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

8. Re: DCS Magazine has arrived (was "is in the mail")
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

9. Re: Clean out Fuel distributor
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

10. Steering Column Adjustment
From: "drrrh_1" <rick.heile_at_dml_hp.com>

11. Re: second otterstat this year
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

12. Re: lambda warning
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

13. Re: Steering wheel removal
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

14. Look what I got!!!!!!
From: "Jack Stiefel" <jackstiefel_at_dml_stiefelaluminum.com>

15. Re: Steering wheel removal
From: "Christophe Vieira" <chris_delorean_at_dml_hotmail.com>

16. Crystal Photos
From: "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com>

17. Re: Steering Column Adjustment
From: Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>

18. Re: Steering wheel removal
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

19. Re: Re: lambda warning
From: Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>

20. General lack of engine power. what's going on?
From: "odell_andy" <odell_andy_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

21. hood alignment?
From: "Bill Koenig" <dmc06976_at_dml_mail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 08 Nov 2005 18:44:42 -0500
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: RE: Clean out Fuel distributor

Reconnect the lines to the fuel distributer. Remove the injectors if they
are still attached. Get yourself six coffee cans and put one or two lines in
each can and then run the fuel pump by jumpering the RPM relay. Press down
on the air flap and you'll see the gas come out of the lines.

Dave Sontos

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Charles Major
Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2005 1:28 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Clean out Fuel distributor


I have had my distributor off the car (lines off) for about 3 months and
that gas was 8 months old then. As I am about ready to wrap up my repairs I
dont want junk going to my new injectors or going to my clean tank. Idea,
with the injector lines off how about I run the pump for a second or two to
push out the gunk? Want to ask cuz I know these things are not forgiving to
anything outside the norm.
Charles





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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 08 Nov 2005 23:10:28 -0000
From: "Shain Brannan" <dsmguy_at_dml_ptd.net>
Subject: Bilstein Shocks

Hello group,

This is a reply to my orgional post about Monroe Shocks.  I recently 
purchased a set of billstein shocks from a vendor that should match up 
with the DeLorean.  I called a billstein rep in North Carolina, and 
they are supply me with a rear coil over kit to allow the stock shock 
and srping coil over setup to work.  The shocks will be able to be 
adjusted height wise (on the car liek the eibach setup).  If anyone is 
intrested on how this works out, along with part numbers let me know.  
the cost has been around $350, or about the same as the houston setup, 
except with a lifetime warranty.  Which for someone like me who 
doesn't fly around in my car, and wants a decent shock this may be a 
nice option.

-Shain







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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 08 Nov 2005 18:54:41 -0500
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: RE: Possible Alternator trouble and more

One reason Johns alternators are rated higher is that his pulley has a
smaller diameter on it which makes the unit spin faster than the standard
unit. This smaller diameter pulley has less surface area for the belt to
contact so you will need to make your fan belt extra tight when using this
alternator. It is possible that the screeching niose you hear is the belt
slipping. Make sure the belt is "dry", no oil or antifreeze spilled on it.

Check the bearings on the unit by loosening and removing the belt. Try
turning the pulley by hand and see how it feels. It should spin freely with
no noise or roughness.

Recheck all of your wiring connections. Loosen, remove, and retighten.

Dave Sontos

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
usndmc
Sent: Monday, November 07, 2005 10:28 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Possible Alternator trouble and more

Everything was working great the last month, until about 5 days ago, I
started noticing that once in a while as I would accelerate, particularly in
1st and 2nd gear, through around 1500-1900 RPMs I would hear a whining
screeching sound like a rusty wheel spinning that needed some lubrication
kind of thing, and coinciding with the noise the voltmeter would dip from
its normal 13.5-14 down to about 12.5 until the noise stopped. It usually
only lasted for about 3-5 seconds. I tried 3 different times in the driveway
manipulating the throttle from the engine to replicate the symptom but could
not.





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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2005 18:43:35 -0600
From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>
Subject: floor mats

Has anyone here ever purchased the diamond plate floor mats you always see 
listed on EBay?  If so, ar they worth it?

Thanks,
Lingo #2034 






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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2005 17:03:44 -0800 (PST)
From: mike clemens <rmclemns_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Where to Send Delorean Information

Okay, maybe I'm totally computer stupid, but I have
tried three times previously to registar my car on the
dmcnews site and then again about three hours ago.

Every time I put the info in, it goes back to the
opening screen and I have no idea if my info was
accepted.  Could someone who is in charge of this site
contact me offline and let me know if I am doing
something wrong or if the site is just all hosed up??

Thanks....

Mike


--- birdwell77095 <birdwells_at_dml_usa.net> wrote:


>> The question was asked as to who maintains the VIN
>> list (found at 
>> http://www.dmcnews.com/faq/img/news/n_vinlst.pdf ).





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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2005 20:18:12 EST
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: : Re: lambda warning

NO.  You should be able to reset it without removing it.
D² & 6530

<<    From: "dmcgullwing" <dmcgullwing_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: lambda warning

Does the lambda counter need to be removed from the car in order to 
reset it? 

Eric 
 >>





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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2005 20:38:22 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Possible Alternator trouble and more

 
 
In a message dated 11/8/2005 2:27:19 A.M. Central Standard Time,  
usndmc_at_dml_gmail.com writes:

I can't  see anything really out of the order from looking. Both 
belts are new and  appear to still be fine. The battery light works 
of course but never  illuminated the whole time. I have no idea where 
to start here. I know,  the first thing I should do is call John 
Hervey. I did, and he's out of  town for a few days so no help there 
for the time being. I'd appreciate  any insights, tips, and advice on 
what to do here, or even an explanation  of what could be going on. 
Should I grab my tools and head out tonight and  put the Motorola 
back in to make sure I can get to work tomorrow morning??  (yes the D 
is my only car) Thanks a lot everyone for any help  whatsoever!

Dave
#5968


Dave,
 
Are you sure the belts are the proper tension? Sounds like the alternator  
belt has gotten a little loose - maybe you didn't tighten everything down on the 
 alternator mounts properly.
 
Andy
 
Fargo, ND  
1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 09 Nov 2005 01:39:50 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: DCS Magazine has arrived (was "is in the mail")

Not bad - I got mine today, 3 days after you mailed it. Some 
interesting stuff to look for in there:

--A picture of my M3 in a DeLorean magazine, now I need to see if I 
can get a picture of my DeLorean in a BMW magazine;

--The mysterious Mark V;

--What my front yard looks like once or twice a year;

--Ken Koncelik's new lift;

--Marc Levy and his harem;

--Shannon's mashed potatoes.

If you haven't subscribed yet, this would be a good time.

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, kKoncelik_at_dml_a... wrote:

>>
>> All of the magazines went out this morning and if the Post Office 

does not  

>> lose them you should be seeing them by mid to late next week
>> They are sent 1st class as opposed to Media Mail so hopefully they 

will not  

>> damage, destroy, lose, open and read or hold on to them for weeks.
>>  










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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 09 Nov 2005 02:37:02 -0000
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Clean out Fuel distributor

my car had been sitting 12 years!.

what i did was temp fit fuel pipe and banjo's to the six outlets and 
run the pump.

i put the feed back to the tank into a temporary container.

then run through a couple of pints.

costs a few quid but cheaper than clogged injectors.

only snag is, other parts of the system also hold the fuel from the 
distibutor, cold start valve, cpr etc.

regards

steve





--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Charles Major" <charlesmajor_at_dml_h...> 
wrote:

>>
>> 
>> I have had my distributor off the car (lines off) for about 3 

months and 

>> that gas was 8 months old then. As I am about ready to wrap up my 

repairs I 

>> dont want junk going to my new injectors or going to my clean 

tank. Idea, 

>> with the injector lines off how about I run the pump for a second 

or two to 

>> push out the gunk? Want to ask cuz I know these things are not 

forgiving to 

>> anything outside the norm.
>> Charles
>>










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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 09 Nov 2005 01:28:47 -0000
From: "drrrh_1" <rick.heile_at_dml_hp.com>
Subject: Steering Column Adjustment

I don't want this thread to be confused with the other steering column 
thread. My issue is the steering column adjustment knob.

If I loosen it I can adjust the steering wheel the way it should, but 
when I tighten it over time it slowly drops back down. Does anyone 
have any ideas about what needs to be replaced/adjusted?

Thanks,

Rick
3290







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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 09 Nov 2005 02:09:52 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: second otterstat this year

The functions sound correct. You should not drive with the otterstat 
disabled. You will look away from the temp guage at the wrong time. 
There should be no strain on the electrical system to operate the 
otterstat - it just operates one or two relays depending on who's fix 
you have.

I had two otterstats go bad like that a long time ago and the third 
one is still in and operating fine - that was probably 10 or 12 years 
ago. I wouldn't be too concerned just yet - especially if you have not 
blown a fuse (no.5). If the third one goes then maybe. Be carefull 
when you install the new otterstat to not damage or strain the 
connectors. If the connectors are damaged, strained or moved in the 
housing the otterstat could become unstable and/or malfunction.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_g...> wrote:

>>
>> My second otterstat has failed this year.
>> They fail in a good way-- the fans run continuous as soon as the key 

is

>> turned. But I am naturally worried about the strain on the 

electrical system

>> and about what is causing this behavior.
>> If I disconnect it the fans will stop (but still engage with the 

AC), but

>> that is dangerous since this time of year I don't run the AC 

continuously.









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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 09 Nov 2005 02:56:11 -0000
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: lambda warning





hi

mine is about the same!!.

stored (outside) for 12 years then shipped to the Uk!.

now mine seems to do the same, runs for about 30 seconds then chugs 
and dies.

accelerator pedal does not hlp, still chugs and dies.

restarts then does the same.

after a few times struggles to start (could be battery low).

it does buzz though so i think the frequency valve is OK.
for the first few seconds i think it runs on fuel from the cold 
start valve untill the injectors take over.

i have replaced tank, pump, accumulator, fuel filter, some fuel 
lines, CPR, Cpr delay valve.

still did the same.

thought maybe a vac leak and decided to remove air manifold (had a 
pump leak anyway so needed to do this quick)

just about to put all back on.

reconditioned pump, new hoses, new spark plugs/coil/rotorarm, new o 
rings everywhere.

so check for a leak, particularly the seal to the co adjuster(mine 
is like a putty seal), the air inlet under the air venturi (brass 
keeper and o ring).

i have tested the sensors in the y pipe under the manifold and did 
not seem to get the correct readings.
as far as i can tell (but could be wrong) my lamba sensor has failed 
(i know-rare) and could be telling the cpu that the car is warm and 
to cut in the lambda system (during warm up this is not engaged)
so i think! that mine might be overfueling or something if that is 
possible with prv system-not sure.

have you tried a fuel pressure test kit. if mine still does not run 
then that is my next move.
have you replaced the whole distributor? for a recon one? have you 
tested the injectors with pump running?

i'm also replacing my vac solenoid (for the few dollars it costs) 
and bleeding my clutch, and have removed the plunger to the fuel 
distibutor for cleaning.

it will be a couple of weeks but i can let you know if it works.

sounds exactly the same symptoms, so if you get yours running let me 
know!.

Regards

Steve

UK









--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sfdelorean" <sfdelorean_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>>
>> Have just stated a 1982 for the first time since 1992. New fuel 

pump

>> cleaned tank, ran sea foam thru system, then replaced fuel
>> distributor, injectors and warm up regulator that had 3000 miles 

since

>> rebuild.  Car will start but lambda warning light comes on and 

RPM's

>> are limited and car appears to loose power and not idle up after a 

few

>> hundred yards. Help!
>>











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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 09 Nov 2005 03:04:39 -0000
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Steering wheel removal

no i agree with David.

do not hit the column with a hammer, like many cars it is designed 
to collapse fairly easily.

and this parts is expensive to replace. always use pullers. (i have 
done many mx5's/miatas).

Regards

Steve




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Christophe Vieira" 
<chris_delorean_at_dml_h...> wrote:

>>
>> If you let Robocop doing the job with a 5kg hammer, may be...
>> 
>> You can use this method as long as you do not use the hammer the 

same way you will use it to detroy a wall.





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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2005 22:24:34 -0500
From: "Jack Stiefel" <jackstiefel_at_dml_stiefelaluminum.com>
Subject: Look what I got!!!!!!

I was in need of a new LH torsion bar and have seen prices from $500.00 for
a used one I needed to help remove to $1,500.00 for a brand new unused one.
I had a lead on 2 of them, but now Walter and Tony, thanks but looks like I
am sitting pretty.

 

http://tinyurl.com/9ra6l

 

And don't you know I won it!!!!  I think I got a good deal, is the seller on
the list?  If so Thanks!!!

 

Jack Stiefel - Tampa, Fl

DMC Vin 03461 1981 Grey 5 speed

DMC Vin 16879 1983 Black 5 speed





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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 09 Nov 2005 09:20:08 -0000
From: "Christophe Vieira" <chris_delorean_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Steering wheel removal

Why do you want to hit the column ?
You must hit the back of the steering wheel, not the column.
The aim of the hammer is only to make strong vibrations in the 
steering wheel.
We use extractors only when the hammer method does not work, i.e. 
almost never on a lot of cars.
We also use soft mallets to install windshields and we do not brake 
them.

Best regards,

Chris.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:

>>
>> no i agree with David.
>> 
>> do not hit the column with a hammer, like many cars it is designed 
>> to collapse fairly easily.





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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 09 Nov 2005 13:14:08 -0000
From: "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Crystal Photos

A while back I saw a post about someone who was interested in having 
made those Crystal Photo cubes made.  I don't recall seeing any replys.

Today I saw at the CVS Pharmacy photo section that you can have them 
made there, but they are not cheap.  They are advertised as from 29.99, 
which is for the 2.25 x 1.5 x 1.5 inch size.  They have 4 sizes, the 
biggest being 5.062 x 3.125 x 2.25 which costs $99.99. Yipes.

Happy almost holidays!

D² & 6530
(still running 2700 ohms)








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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 9 Nov 2005 10:44:04 -0600
From: Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Steering Column Adjustment

My steering wheel "drooped" over time, until I realized that I was leaning 
on it for ingress/egress.  So I positioned it where I wanted it, and 
torqued the adjustment knob with both hands.  It doesn't move anymore!


Gus Schlachter
VIN #4695
Austin, Texas




>> I don't want this thread to be confused with the other steering column 
>> thread. My issue is the steering column adjustment knob.
>> 
>> If I loosen it I can adjust the steering wheel the way it should, but 
>> when I tighten it over time it slowly drops back down. Does anyone 
>> have any ideas about what needs to be replaced/adjusted?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Rick
>> 3290



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 09 Nov 2005 11:31:20 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Steering wheel removal

Martin,

If you can get some photos of that little adapter I can make one of 
those. I have a good idea of how it should look, but a few pictures 
would be great if you ever come across the time.

I got a new steering wheel with the last car I bought and someday I 
have been planning on changing the wheel on 16851.

Thanks in advance.


Joe O'Brien


2524,
16634,
16851










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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 9 Nov 2005 11:00:49 -0600
From: Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Re: lambda warning

You do not need to remove the lambda counter to reset it, but you do need 
to crawl under the dash.

The reset "knob" is a small, rotating button with two holes.  To reset 
mine, I made my own tool:

  1. took an impression of the knob with silly putty
  2. tapped two brads/nails into a small block of wood to align with the 
holes in the impression
  3. used a Dremmel to cut the nails down to short and equal height
  4. voilą - a new tool.  Insert and rotate to reset (can't remember which 
direction, sorry)

I actually used a bottlecap the first time I tried this, but the friction 
heat from the Dremmel melted the plastic.  You could probably do this with 
a bent paper-clip if you had the device in your hand, but when under the 
dash it requires more dexterity than I possess.

Don't forget, the light is an actual reminder to check your lambda system, 
although I'm sure you already keep everything in tip-top shape without the 
benefit of a dashboard idiot light.   :-) 


Gus Schlachter
VIN #4695
Austin, Texas




>> Does the lambda counter need to be removed from the car in order to 
>> reset it? 
>> 
>> Eric 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 09 Nov 2005 17:47:15 -0000
From: "odell_andy" <odell_andy_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: General lack of engine power. what's going on?

OK, please someone help me before this car takes over my life.

i have owned my D since March last year, and only got it in a drivable
state last week. It is an late 81 Auto i bought non running in miami.
 I honestly thought it was pulling away in 2nd, and that i should have
4 forward gears. DUMBASS!
i do have 3 forward gears. in 2nd and 3rd it goes pretty well. even
with all the problems i really enjoyed myself, and remember why i
brought the thing in the first place!

today i pulled off the venturi, fuel distributor and tightened the vac
hoses. made no difference.

parts i have replaced;
fuel distributor, distributor cap,spark leads & plugs, fuel pump,
filter, coil, battery, fuses/relays, fuel lines, idle valve. ballast
resistor, 2 solonoids bottom of gearbox, (trying to find that elusive
4th gear!)

engine runs pretty well. no vac leaks. doesnt stall.
I tried to disable the lambda, following the DMCnews guide, and found
that my O2 sensor is putting out 0.35 volts (i have not replaced the
sensor, it appears good) the RPM counter also doesnt work. (it
increases from 7000 to 7500 revs when you turn the key, otherwise static. 
everything else works. 
changes to 2nd gear about 30mph, 3rd about 50. 

when pulling away from red lights, the engine has a cam rattle noise,
and has virtually no acceleration  below 10mph. 
is the lack of power and revcounter related?
any help / ideas welcome. i am running out of ...

thanks for your time,
Andy







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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 09 Nov 2005 17:42:25 -0000
From: "Bill Koenig" <dmc06976_at_dml_mail.com>
Subject: hood alignment?

hello everyone.

the hood on my car doesn't sit flush with the front quarter panels,
and its very tight when i close the hood.  what here needs adjustment?

you can take a look here:

http://home.comcast.net/~william_koenig/DMC/

there are many other things that i'm focused on to fix on my D right
now, but this is one of those little things that bugs me.. it seems
like it could be a simple enough fix that would yield a large
improvement in appearance... that and I really want to un-warp my
front fascia with the aluminum reinforcement / heat-gun method. =p








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