Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2976
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:10 Nov 2005 20:41:03 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: lambda warning & would like tech advice
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>

2. Wierd Noise from everywhere.
From: "denverdelorean" <denverdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. RE: General lack of engine power. what's going on?
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

4. Horn Button Popped Off
From: "birdwell77095" <birdwells_at_dml_usa.net>

5. Stainless Wipes
From: "Jason" <rowejj_at_dml_tds.net>

6. Re: Angle Drive Removal
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Re: Steering wheel removal
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. For sale $13K
From: "Josh Porter" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. DCS 2006 & DCS November Magazine
From: "Lawrence Lormand" <lawrencesr_at_dml_netzero.net>

10. re cleaning the manifold and y pipe
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

11. Re: Steering Column Adjustment
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

12. Re: Possible Alternator trouble and more
From: Jonathan Minor <malletslinger_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Re: General lack of engine power. what's going on?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

14. Re: General lack of engine power. what's going on?
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>

15. Re: second otterstat this year
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

16. Delorean cameo found in another movie
From: "sweitzel_2000" <sweitzel_at_dml_lffltd.com>

17. Re: DCS Magazine has arrived
From: "Lawrence Lormand" <lawrencesr_at_dml_netzero.net>

18. Re: hood alignment?
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

19. Pre-production car feature: rear lower spoiler/panel.
From: "John Dore" <dmcjohn_at_dml_hotmail.com>

20. Re: re cleaning the manifold and y pipe
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

21. Re: General lack of engine power. what's going on?
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

22. Re: General lack of engine power. what's going on?
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>

23. Re: hood alignment?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

24. Re: General lack of engine power. what's going on?
From: "Qume Fox" <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>

25. Wires at Throttle Linkage
From: "Charlesdos Mavor" <charlesmajor_at_dml_hotmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 09 Nov 2005 22:53:51 -0000
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: lambda warning & would like tech advice

I saw that on their website, after posting.  Seems to be pretty amazing 
stuff.  Have you tried any of their other products?

Bernie

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, <delornut_at_dml_p...> wrote:

>>
>> Actually Seafoam lists itself as a fuel stabilizer among it's various
>> attributes. It can also reduce combustion chamber carbon deposits when
>> introduced directly into the intake.It's been recomended by auto 

enthusiasts here in Minnesota for years and is the stabilizer of choice 
by local talk radio car guru and ex-neighbor Paul Brand. I've been 
using it in my DeLorean every winter since I bought the car new in 1982 
with no problems.

>> 
>> Bruce Benson
>> 
>
>>> > Sea Foam is a penetrating oil product, and expensive too.  I have
>>> > some but would never put it in the fuel tank, I hope he didn't try
>>> > on run it through the fuel lines.  That would be very bad.
>>> >
>>> > Bernie
>
>>









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2005 00:04:01 -0000
From: "denverdelorean" <denverdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Wierd Noise from everywhere.

I am getting a wierd noise that I can only hear when the car is moving 
and usually only at high speed. It seems to corellate with how fast 
the tires are rolling, not engine rpm's.  It is a kind of mid-
frequency hum.  do I have a CV joint going? needing lubrication?

Matt
16076 








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Wed, 9 Nov 2005 18:07:49 -0500
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: RE: General lack of engine power. what's going on?

Andy,

If the low power condition is transmission related it's possibly a bad
torque converter although that is extremely rare on this car. 
More likely the problem is engine related. Did you properly reset the fuel
CO mixture after the fuel distributor was replaced? Doing this "by ear" is
not the way to go. It should be set with an emissions tester and/or a
dwell-meter.  If this critical and sensitive adjustment is off by much it
can have a pronounced effect on engine output and emissions. The workshop
manual explains this procedure but, lacking that, your parts provider (if
they are a DMC vendor) can help you out. If you didn't buy it from a
"proper" vendor well then....shame on you!!! Other things to check include
engine timing and advance as well as basic ignition tune-up parts for
condition and correctness. Don't forget to also check the air and fuel
filters for excessive dirt and debris.

Rob Grady,

P.J.Grady Inc.  


-----Original Message-----
From:odell_andy
Subject: [DML] General lack of engine power. what's going on?
when pulling away from red lights, the engine has a cam rattle noise,
and has virtually no acceleration  below 10mph. 
is the lack of power and revcounter related?
any help / ideas welcome. i am running out of ...

thanks for your time,
Andy





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2005 00:18:36 -0000
From: "birdwell77095" <birdwells_at_dml_usa.net>
Subject: Horn Button Popped Off

While reaching under the dash to release the hood latch I accidently 
hit the horn button and knocked off the cap at the end of the turn 
signal arm. I have a spring and cap but when I put the sping back on 
and push the cap back on, the cap barely stays connected to the arm. 
Am I missing another piece or is there a trick to get the cap to fit 
snugly?

Shannon Birdwell
VIN 16113







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Wed, 9 Nov 2005 19:52:39 -0500
From: "Jason" <rowejj_at_dml_tds.net>
Subject: Stainless Wipes

    Hello all. I was just wondering if anyone has tried Claire Stainless Wipes
before.  They're a pre-saturated wipe kinda like baby wipes in the pull up
containers. The place I'm working at (for two more days) has a couple cases
that have been sitting around a while so I've thought about trying them out
but I wanted to see if anyone else has first and see what they thought of them.

                                  Jason #5903

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2005 00:31:21 -0000
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Angle Drive Removal

If you get the angle drive and nut from PJGrady, they send 
instructions. I have never done it before and it took about 1/2 an 
hour to get the old off, and the new one on.

Otherwise, i could prolly mail you the info.

Sean

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Shain" <dsmguy_at_dml_p...> wrote:

>>
>> Could anyone tell me how to safely remove the angle drive.  I have 

my hub

>> assembly off of my car to install some new bearings,  and would like 

to

>> remove the drive so I can por-15 the hub.  Thanks a lot.
>> 
>> -Shain
>>









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2005 00:26:05 -0000
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Steering wheel removal

Oh my goodness! Going to a hammer to get the steering wheel off??? 
No! 

Saturday, I did find the solution at ACE Hardware. I got a normal 
harmonics kit from Autozone (as they rent 'em to ya) Found the bolts 
that were the closest fit which came with the Harmonics kit.. I knew 
that the thread and bolt had to be metric... I am really not happy 
that I did not write down the size, so whoever else needs it, I can 
mail them to you. Please message send me a message offline. I can 
also send pics of the setup I did. 

I then unscrewed the center nut 80 to 90% of the way off so that I 
could guide in the center thingy that comes with the harmonics tool 
as it fit in nicely without touching the threads. The reason I did 
this was because, it would slide off the center post of the steering 
column. I put 2 washers on the end of the bolts purchased from ACE 
Hardware. (One washer on it bent and broke prior to pulling the 
steering wheel off) With that setup, I was able to get it off no 
problem. I have vin #003372

The harmonics kit was free (refundable deposit) and the bolts cost 
1.20 a piece. The washers I already had, so it cost me the $2.40 to 
make the necessary adapter. 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2005 01:52:01 -0000
From: "Josh Porter" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: For sale $13K

If you go to the section on DMCNEWS "DeLoreans for sale" you will see 
a car in Little Rock Arkansas going for $13,500. If you are wanting a 
car for that price range then that car is a perfect match. I went and 
looked at it the first time it was listed and the owner let me drive 
for a few miles. It runs very strong. The only thing is that there is 
a pinging noise but it doe's not sound like it has anything to do 
with oil. From what the owner told me, DMCH checked the car over and 
told them the noise was nothing major and not to worry about it. If 
there is rust on the frame then I did not see it. There is rust on 
the engine components like the exhaust manifold but it is only 
surface rust.The car is garage kept and has new seats. The only flaw 
that I saw that was on the interior is the carpets have a stain on 
the passenger side and the headliner will need to be replaced 
sometime, it is starting to come loose from the core. The antenna 
broke off at the base and where they live they get the radio stations 
without the antenna so they did not replace it. It does have some 
minor body damge but you can not see it without looking for it. It 
has black bumber covers that need to be repainted. 

If you want any further pics or whatever let me know. It is 15 mins 
from my house so it is no problem for me to drive over and looking at 
it, again. The sellers phone number is 1-501-455-8511. Her name is 
Mrs. Brown.

Josh
10989








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2005 03:40:37 -0000
From: "Lawrence Lormand" <lawrencesr_at_dml_netzero.net>
Subject: DCS 2006 & DCS November Magazine

Hello Fellow DMLER'S,First I would like to coment on the November issue of DCS Magazine,This issue has great pictures & articals, The professionalisum has been meet & every one can positively read & look over this issue  over & over with out putting it down.next I would like to tell every one I was at Ken's warehouse to Chat & get a glimps of what he's doing there, WOW!!! he has more space to work on every Delorean in the tri-state area ( don't go calling Ken now for space as it's booked ) Ken can do just about any thing on a Delorean in that warehouse that needs to be done.I would also like to say that for any one that has any Delorean Historical Papers or Items they would like to have seen by the rest of the Deloren community Ken has about 20 glass show cases for veiwing these Items if you would like to share your treasures with us please give Ken a call or go to his webste at www.deloreancarshow.com/ & find his phone# or address Please he has lots of room in these show cases & you will get your items back as soon as the veiwing is over. Check out my artical in Ken's DCS Magazine on The Mysterious Beginings of Vin 538 you can also check out all the other great articals & pictures you won't be disapointed.   Lawrence - Michgan Vin's 00538m,00915a,1025m,4873a


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2005 04:01:44 -0000
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: re cleaning the manifold and y pipe

Hi all

i am looking for advice.

i have removed my air intake manifold which looks a bit crusty.

i have tried (in the UK!) meths, acetone, ajax scouring powder, jiff 
(an abrasive cleaner), scouring pad, white spirit/panel wipe, 
detergent, allow wheel cleaner.
and nothing cleans it.

has anyone any ideas? do i need to bead blast and paint? would the 
beads go into the air ducts (and come out when it it on the engine?)

i want it looing as new as possible. it is off the car.

the same goes for the y pipe.
as far as i can tell it must be surface corrosion, so maybe i do 
need to paint?

i know you can't see the y pipe but it would be nice to get back to 
factory fresh while i am there.
i am also using engine enamel on the valley of death.
was going to use a wire brush on a dremmel to clean there.

any advice would be appreciated.

Regards

Steve
UK doc 370











________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2005 04:17:47 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Steering Column Adjustment

If, when you tighten the knob, the column still moves it is possible
the hardware is not installed in the correct order. Remove all of the
hardware and reinstall as per the parts manual. If any is missing
replace the missing parts. You should not have to overtighten to hold
the column in place.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_a...> wrote:

>>
>> My steering wheel "drooped" over time, until I realized that I was

leaning 

>> on it for ingress/egress.  So I positioned it where I wanted it, and 
>> torqued the adjustment knob with both hands.  It doesn't move anymore!





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Wed, 9 Nov 2005 20:16:32 -0800 (PST)
From: Jonathan Minor <malletslinger_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Possible Alternator trouble and more

The problems Dave described sound very similar to the
problems I was having with my camaro a couple weeks
ago.  The problem turned out to be my mass air flow
sensor and relay...in fact, the MAF sensor actually
started having problems right after I replaced the
alternator...coincidence?, maybe  ;) 
Would I be wrong to assume that Deloreans have an ECM
to control the fuel inj. system?
If it does, can anyone tell me what sensors are
included in the system? Does anyone know where I can
find out?
Just trying to satisfy my curiosity...Thanks
Jon Minor(no vin)





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2005 04:31:13 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: General lack of engine power. what's going on?

Since you bought a non-runner it can be a lot of things. I would start
with the basics. Do a compression test. That will tell you a lot about
the internal health of the motor. From there you may want to do a
differential pressure leak-down test. The camshaft noise may really be
an exhaust leak. You really do need the Lambda to work so the car will
run right. Your mixture could be way off because you replaced the
mixture unit. The timing could be off, and/or the mechanical and
vacuum advance may not be working. I can send you the instructions to
build a break-out box so you can make sure you are actually starting
out in 1st gear. You might have a bad shift computer (very common).
The tach not working *could* indicate a problem in the ignition
circuit. Hard to say but it should work so if you fix the tach it
"may" solve some of your problems. Flush the brakes with fresh Castrol
GTLMA DOT 4 and check the fluid levels in the transmission AND the
final drive. You have several problems to sort out before you really
know which direction to go in. Stop throwing parts at the car and try
to diagnose the problem, I bet many of the parts you replaced were
really OK since you still have the problem.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "odell_andy" <odell_andy_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>>
>> i have owned my D since March last year, and only got it in a drivable state last week..... > when pulling away from red lights, the engine has a cam rattle noise,
>> and has virtually no acceleration  below 10mph. 
>> is the lack of power and revcounter related?
>> any help / ideas welcome. 






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2005 05:16:06 -0000
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: General lack of engine power. what's going on?

Have you driven another DeLorean?  Maybe you have unrealistic 
expectations about the acceleration. Mine is similar to my '72 Super 
Beetle, my 1980 MGB, etc.  Then all of a sudden, I'm doing 88 MPH.

Marv
#10820


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "odell_andy" <odell_andy_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>> 
>> i have owned my D since March last year, and only got it in a 

drivable state last week.... when pulling away from red lights, the engine has a cam rattle noise,and has virtually no acceleration  below 10mph. 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2005 05:38:26 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: second otterstat this year

Kevin - I thought that I would toss this idea out for your 
consideration.  We offer an external analog adjustable fan switch 
that uses the existing wiring.  The switch allows you to set the fan 
activation temperature for any value between 180 degrees F and 240 
degrees F.  It is very accurate and consistent, and is backed by a 
limited lifetime warranty.  I have been running this in Winged1 for 
8 months with zero issues.  We have also installed them in a couple 
of local cars which were eating normal otterstats for lunch for some 
reason.  Jump onto our website, and search for K4002DP.  I will have 
to consult with my partner, as the website currently shows the 
shopping cart turned OFF for this item.  However, it is available.  
Just a thought for you.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_g...> wrote:

>>
>> My second otterstat has failed this year.
>> They fail in a good way-- the fans run continuous as soon as the 

key is turned. But I am naturally worried about the strain on the 
electrical system and about what is causing this behavior.









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2005 06:07:28 -0000
From: "sweitzel_2000" <sweitzel_at_dml_lffltd.com>
Subject: Delorean cameo found in another movie

I was working on making DVDs of some of my rare laserdiscs this
evening and was transferring a documentary made in 1984 called
"Streetwise" about runaway and homeless teenagers on the streets of
downtown Seattle. I'd seen this film numerous times before but for the
first time noticed as the camera was following a person across the
street in one shot, there was a DMC waiting to make a left turn in the
background! interesting! I uploaded a screencapture to the photos section.







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2005 02:14:19 -0000
From: "Lawrence Lormand" <lawrencesr_at_dml_netzero.net>
Subject: Re: DCS Magazine has arrived

I got my Magazine Monday,
lots of good articals in there I even gave a wrong date in my 538 
artical on the Auction I was driving it in 1984 I recal the plate 
date was 1984 I'm trying to dig up the old plate to make sure I 
beleieve it was May of 1984 for the Auction.
Lawrence
Vin's/00538m,00915a,1024m,4873a






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2005 05:49:52 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: hood alignment?

Bill - My car, Winged1, had a similar issue when I first got her.  
It now fits perfectly flush.  There are two main factors that I had 
to address.  The first was that the trunk latch was just mounted too 
high.  I slotted the holes on the mounting bracket so that the 
entire latch assembly could be moved down another 1/2 inch or so.  
This involved the holes in the mounting flanges on the black sheet 
metal bracket itself, as well as the holes in the latch assembly 
where it mounts to the black bracket.  I needed that much 
adjustment.  The second issue was that the seal was too thick and 
stiff.  The newer stock of seals might be softer to allow better 
compression, but I simply peeled the rubber seal off, and replaced 
it with self-adhesive foam seal that is used to seal under truck 
campers.  I have no leakage (and we live in Seattle), and the 
combination of the latch adjustement and the thinner seal has 
allowed me to get it perfect.  I hope this helps.

PS - Some people advocate putting shims under the front fender 
attachment flanges to raise the fenders up to match the trunk lid.  
This is okay as long as it doesn't create a mismatch between the 
fenders and the doors, both along the top edge, and along the side 
contours. I didn't take note of that factor in your car, but you can 
be the judge of that.

Toby Peterson VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com  

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Bill Koenig" <dmc06976_at_dml_m...> wrote:

>>
>> hello everyone.
>> 
>> the hood on my car doesn't sit flush with the front quarter panels,
>> and its very tight when i close the hood.  what here needs 

adjustment?

>> 









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2005 12:58:18 -0000
From: "John Dore" <dmcjohn_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Pre-production car feature: rear lower spoiler/panel.

Hi all,

In the pre-production DeLoreans (or at least some of the pre-
production cars), they had an additional fiberglass panel under the
rear fascia, which would mask the view of the frame of the car from
behind. You can see it in the following picture:

http://www.deloreans.co.uk/features/forthcomingevents/event_005(1).jpg

or here:

http://tinyurl.com/bht2e

I'd like to know why this feature did not make it onto production
DeLoreans? Looking under my car, it is clear that the space is still
there for it, even mounting holes.

Was it a problem with it warping due to exhaust heat? Or was it
restricting hot air from leaving the engine compartment, causing
overheating?

James, do DMCH have any samples of this panel in stock? Has anyone
ever thought of having it made?!

I think it looks nice...

Thanks,
John








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2005 09:19:19 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: re cleaning the manifold and y pipe

 
 
In a message dated 11/10/2005 12:58:59 A.M. Central Standard Time,  
blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk writes:

i know  you can't see the y pipe but it would be nice to get back to 
factory fresh  while i am there.
i am also using engine enamel on the valley of  death.
was going to use a wire brush on a dremmel to clean  there.

any advice would be  appreciated.

Regards

Steve
UK doc 370


Steve,
 
When I had mine off, I had the manifold and pipes bead blasted and  painted.  
They look great still, 4 years later.
 
See _http://members.cardomain.com/soma576_ 
(http://members.cardomain.com/soma576)   for pics.
 
Andy
 
Fargo, ND  
1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2005 15:07:22 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: General lack of engine power. what's going on?

Are you 100% sure that you are really shifting thru all the gears? If 
the computer governor has failed, starting out in second gear is a 
common failure mode and it really makes the car a slug (in addition 
to toasting the trans in short order). 

Put some test lights on the solenoid connection and watch it as you 
drive. This is actually a nice permanent addition to the car. 

There are three wires that connect to the bulkhead connector just 
under the two big resistors on the firewall. Lift the cover off the 
connector and you can see 5 brass screws on the right. The three 
wires oin question go to the three screws in the middle. The center 
connection is common, the two others are the two solenoid 
connections. When the car is stopped BOTH solenoid connections should 
be lit up. As the transmission shifts, you should see one light go 
out and then the other. I believe this is documented a bit better on 
the dmcnews.com tech section as well. 

Dave Swingle


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_h...> wrote:

>>
>> Have you driven another DeLorean?  Maybe you have unrealistic 
>> expectations about the acceleration. Mine is similar to my '72 

Super 

>> Beetle, my 1980 MGB, etc.  Then all of a sudden, I'm doing 88 MPH.
>> 
>> Marv
>> #10820
>> 
>> 
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "odell_andy" <odell_andy_at_dml_y...> 

wrote:

>>> > 
>>> > i have owned my D since March last year, and only got it in a 
>
>> drivable state last week.... when pulling away from red lights, the 

engine has a cam rattle noise,and has virtually no acceleration  
below 10mph.

>>









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2005 16:00:12 -0000
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: General lack of engine power. what's going on?

You own a Delorean.  

It's already taken over your life.   :) 



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "odell_andy" <odell_andy_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>>
>> OK, please someone help me before this car takes over my life.
>> 
>> i have owned my D since March last year, and only got it in a 

drivable state last week. 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2005 16:16:15 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: hood alignment?

It seems very common for the latch to be set too high. Slotting the
holes allows the latch to be adjusted lower. When doing that remove
(or at least screw all the way in) the hood stops. After adjusting the
height of the hood with the latch AND MAKING SURE THE LOOP HITS IN THE
CENTER, NOT RUBBING ON THE SIDES AS IT GOES INTO THE LATCH adjust the
hood stops. I like to have the hood sit slightly below the fender line
so I can bring it up a little with the hood stops. This keeps the hood
from bouncing while driving. Sometimes you will have to "split the
difference" ie, one side of the hood may line up and one side may be a
little high or low so you have to compromise somewhere in between.
After setting the hood stops make sure the restraining brackets on the
underside of the hood are properly positioned so they will capture the
hood stops in the event of a severe front end crash. They keep the
hood from going through the windshield and decapitating the occupants.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


>> 
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Bill Koenig" <dmc06976_at_dml_m...> wrote:
>
>>> >
>>> > hello everyone.
>>> > 
>>> > the hood on my car doesn't sit flush with the front quarter panels,
>>> > and its very tight when i close the hood.  what here needs 
>
>> adjustment?
>
>>> >
>
>>









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2005 16:19:03 -0000
From: "Qume Fox" <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>
Subject: Re: General lack of engine power. what's going on?

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, <rob_at_dml_p...> wrote:

>>
>> If you didn't buy it from a "proper" vendor well then....shame on you!!! 
>> 
>> Rob Grady,
>> 
>> P.J.Grady Inc.  


Uh. I don't know if this was said as a joke or what, but i'm a little taken 
back by it.. Not everyone can afford to allways buy new parts from 
vendors at every little thing that goes wrong with their cars.. I know if I 
had to solely rely on them for every little thing I needed for my rebuild, 
then there's no way I could afford to do it.

I have nothing against the vendors, and I will have likly spread money 
around between all of them before i'm finished with my car, however 
alot of time most of the non-delorean specific parts can be found 
cheaper from other sources, and I don't feel it right for a vendor to 
berrate us for being on a budget.

Chris
VIN# 03209
http://badger.brazi.net/index.pl/delorean







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2005 15:04:11 -0000
From: "Charlesdos Mavor" <charlesmajor_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Wires at Throttle Linkage

There is one black quick disconnect and one white that run together. Do 
they both connect or is one a dead end? If not I got a lost wire 
somewhere???







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
    dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 
------------------------------------------------------------------------