Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2981
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:14 Nov 2005 23:54:14 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Quick A/C pressure question...
From: "alex morgan" <mauibarber_at_dml_hotmail.com>

2. Re: Mode Switch Removal Method
From: Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>

3. exhaust manifold problem - what would you do?
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

4. ERRR!!! Hot Start!!!
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

5. RE: ERRR!!! Hot Start!!!
From: "Ed" <edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com>

6. Re: ERRR!!! Hot Start!!!
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

7. Re: ERRR!!! Hot Start!!!
From: Qumefox <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>

8. Transmission
From: "gbsdelorean" <gbsdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Re: ERRR!!! Hot Start!!!
From: "dmc_5180" <dmc_5180_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. Re: Mode Switch Removal Method
From: "dmc_5180" <dmc_5180_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. Re: won't go in reverse
From: George DeLorean <phantomoftheopera_gk_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Re: Yahoo Email Bouncing
From: "blane" <blane_at_dml_triad.rr.com>

13. Re: New Steering Wheel - More Sporty
From: "Dave" <vdavidj_at_dml_hotmail.com>

14. Re: Transmission
From: Joe Angell <jangell_at_dml_tmproductions.com>

15. Re: Can we ALL come to a correct definition of these DeLorean terms?
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

16. Re: Quick A/C pressure question...
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

17. factory radio or aftermarket?
From: "Dan" <djdanwilson_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. Re: won't go in reverse
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

19. "Exotic" show in Aiken, SC (11-12-05)
From: "lakelanier20" <derek4567_at_dml_hotmail.com>

20. dcs Mode Switch Removal Method in magazine
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

21. RE: exhaust manifold problem - what would you do?
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

22. Loose door strut attachment
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>

23. Water pump pulley. Or, how do I get the _at_dml_^#$^% thing off.
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>

24. 7003
From: "Josh Porter" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>

25. Brake Master Cylinder
From: "coreysmoo" <coreysmoo_at_dml_hotmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2005 19:29:23 +0000
From: "alex morgan" <mauibarber_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Quick A/C pressure question...

Aloha,
I did a pressure check on the car and found that my low pressure side reads 
about 47 at 80 degrees.  I can't find anything in any of my books that shows 
a chart on how much freon is needed at these pressures.  i know the pressure 
is supposed to be around 25-32.  I have two cans of R12.  If I put one can 
in would this be too much?  Any help would be appreciated.
-Alex







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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2005 12:44:21 -0600
From: Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Mode Switch Removal Method

Steve,

I just recently removed my own mode switch.  Not that there was anything 
wrong with it, but I had dislodged the vacuum lines while R&Ring the 
stereo. ("Why is my stereo making that hissing noise?  Why does it go away 
when I accelerate?  Why doesn't my A/C work?  Why is my idle so 
funny....oh crap!")

Anyway, I was able to remove the mode switch by removing the screw(s) in 
front (I only have one?!??) and pulling it out through the back.  But this 
may not work in your case for several reasons.  First of all, my dash was 
modified for a modern stereo that I could remove through the front, giving 
me an access hole through which to work.  This was important, since the 
electrical connector to the switch actually three individual wires, not a 
single plug.  I don't think I could have removed or replaced the switch 
without being able to see those.  AND I had to work though the stereo 
cutout, which meant using several hemostats...I felt like a surgeon, lol.

If you still have the factory radio, I don't see how you can service the 
mode switch without either removing the center console, or getting a 
"Honey I Shrunk The Kids" machine.  It is still possible that you simply 
have an open/dislodged vacuum line under the dash, but I assume you've 
looked for that already.

When you do get the mode switch apart, I highly recommend the 
"Defrost+A/C" modification:

  http://dmcnews.com/Techsection/modeswitch.html

And while you've got the A/C panel open, I advise replacing the bulbs with 
BA7 LEDs from http://www.superbrightleds.com, although THAT procedure 
required the hemostats, too.


Gus Schlachter
VIN #4695
Austin, Texas



>> I've searched the archives at dmcnews about removing the mode switch
>> from center dash 
>> board for repair.  According to parts drawing Section 7, sub 3, 
>> group 0, the mode switch is 
>> behind part 40 "RDO VENT & SW MT PLT".   It looks like there are 
>> differing opinions on 
>> whether the center console has to be removed or not to access the 
>> mode switch.  Which one is  correct?
>> 
>> So far, I've managed to remove the control knobs, indication lights,
>> and AC facia (part 35), but I am not sure what to do next. 
>> 
>> Problem symptom: No heat from vents and the windshield vents doesn't
>> have any air output.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2005 16:09:34 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: exhaust manifold problem - what would you do?

List,
 
I am currently working on removing my exhaust manifolds (engine is out of  
car) for gasket service.  
 
First of all, on the left side manifold (dipstick side), the top three  
fasteners for the manifold were studs with 11mm nuts on them.  The lower  three 
were 11mm head bolts!  Is that factory?  I think someone might  have been here 
before because these bolts were not very tight.  Luckily  every one on that side 
took the stud with it and cleanly unscrewed from the  head.
 
The right side manifold is a different story.  The top three were  studs and 
nuts (two nuts broke off flush with the manifold on top) and the  bottom ones 
were a nut which unscrewed from the stud, leaving the stud in the  head, 
another was a stud and nut and the stud unscrewed, and the last one is the  real 
trouble.  It's a bolt that holds on the starter heat shield which also  holds on 
the manifold to the head.  This one I think someone else tried to  remove 
once and was unsuccessful. I was using all 6 pt deep well sockets and my  11mm 
socket barely even turned before it skipped on the bolt, so for sure an  11mm 
won't work to pull it out.  It's too rusty and just barely too round  to work.  
I suppose someone else used the wrong socket or something on  it.  
 
What would you do to get this out? My space is somewhat limited above the  
bolt because the manifold is still attached. I have a set of craftsman  damaged 
bolt removers - they are sockets with curved blades them  for removing stuff 
like this, but none of them fit right (there isn't  one for 11mm bolts).  I am 
considering using a dremel to cut off  the head, slide off the manifold, and 
attempt to use a stud extractor on what's  left since I need to buy an 
extractor anyway for the broken studs  elsewhere.
 
Ideas?
Andy 
 
Fargo, ND  
1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2005 17:35:37 EST
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: ERRR!!! Hot Start!!!

 
 
First you have to define your problem.  If the engine cranks properly,  i.e.. 
turns over, (and over and over) at the normal speed  when you  turn the key 
to start, then it's not the starter.
 
Most hot start problems are in this category, that is the engine "cranks"  
but will not start.
 
You need to confirm that it is a fuel problem and not some ignition  problem.
 
Have yo tried the swap of the connector from the CPR to the cold start  valve?
 
Let us know.
 
D² & 6530
In pieces having its electronics customized...

From: Joey Morgan  <jlm1701music_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: ERRR!!! Hot  Start!!!

OK....PLEASE ADVISE...I replaced the fuel
accumulator(that  was fun) only to still have a hot
start problem, so I replaced the O rings  on the
pressure regulator and guess what? I still have a hot
start  problem. ERRRR!!! Starts right up on the 1st try
cold. Has anyone had this  problem? I had a 72 Chevelle
that had a similar problem, it would start  right up
cold but would not start after it got hot, the problem
was the  starter. Could that be the problem here??
Thanks in advance for any  solutions you may have.

Joey
#6297



 
Thank  you,

Dave



"Just Say  NO, to the COUCH POTATO!"®


To see how go to _www.tvpedaler.com_ (http://www.tvpedaler.com/)   



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2005 18:16:05 -0500
From: "Ed" <edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: ERRR!!! Hot Start!!!

Joey,
I  have a continuing "hot start" like problem.  Replaced accumulator and
fuel distribution unit but that did not help.  Got several points from the
group (some of which I still have to try if I can find the emails).

The unique issue with my problem is if the engine is hot and I stall or kill
the engine I immediately have the hot start like symptom.  An accumulator
problem (which is what I understand to be "the" hot start problem") does not
normally manifest itself immediately.  The car normally has to sit for a few
minutes before the hot start problem occurs if the accumulator is bad.

In any case, my work around is to hold the gas pedal to the floor and it
usually starts right back up with only a modest increase over the normal
start time.  Hotter day are more problematic.  Why this works, I don't know.
It makes no sense to me but it has worked every time for me but once.  It's
worth a try.

BTW, a good battery helps.

Good luck.

Ed
10541




>> OK....PLEASE ADVISE...I replaced the fuel
>> accumulator(that was fun) only to still have a hot
>> start problem, 





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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2005 23:04:03 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: ERRR!!! Hot Start!!!

It comes down to any (or all) of 3 different possabilities:
1) accumulator (most common)
2) leaky Primary Pressure Regulator
3) bad check valve on fuel pump

Since you did #'s 1 and 2 all you are left with is #3 assuming the
accumulator you replaced is good and the pressure regulator isn't
leaking. This problem is nothing like the problem you had with a 72
Chevelle. It had a carbureator. The starter does not cause this in a
Delorean. If switching the plugs gets you started then the problem is
your system is not holding "Rest Pressure".
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Joey Morgan <jlm1701music_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>>
>> OK....PLEASE ADVISE...I replaced the fuel
>> accumulator(that was fun) only to still have a hot
>> start problem, so I replaced the O rings on the
>> pressure regulator and guess what? I still have a hot
>> start problem. ERRRR!!! Starts right up on the 1st try
>> cold. Has anyone had this problem? I had a 72 Chevelle
>> that had a similar problem, it would start right up
>> cold but would not start after it got hot, the problem
>> was the starter. Could that be the problem here??
>> Thanks in advance for any solutions you may have.
>> 
>> Joey
>> #6297
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 		
>> __________________________________ 
>> Yahoo! FareChase: Search multiple travel sites in one click.
>> http://farechase.yahoo.com
>>









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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2005 20:44:33 -0600
From: Qumefox <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>
Subject: Re: ERRR!!! Hot Start!!!

Joey Morgan wrote:


>>OK....PLEASE ADVISE...I replaced the fuel
>>accumulator(that was fun) only to still have a hot
>>start problem, so I replaced the O rings on the
>>pressure regulator and guess what? I still have a hot
>>start problem. ERRRR!!! Starts right up on the 1st try
>>cold. Has anyone had this problem? I had a 72 Chevelle
>>that had a similar problem, it would start right up
>>cold but would not start after it got hot, the problem
>>was the starter. Could that be the problem here??
>>Thanks in advance for any solutions you may have.
>>
>>Joey
>>#6297
>>
>>
>>


First off, since you mention the starter on your other car, can you be
more specific on what problem your having?  Will the engine turn over
but just not start when hot? Or will the starter not turn the engine
over, or maybe it does but slower than normal, when its hot? If it's the
former, Where did you get your accumulator from? Are you positive it's
of recent manufacture and not a NOS part? A NOS one will be 25 years old
probably, and most likly have the same issues as the one you took off
your car.  If it's the latter then i'd say it probably is the starter.
Something's probably dragging, or not making good contact in the
solenoid, when the internals expand under the engine heat.

--

Chris
VIN# 03209
http://badger.brazi.net/index.pl/delorean



--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.362 / Virus Database: 267.13.0/167 - Release Date: 11/11/2005







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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2005 00:13:50 -0000
From: "gbsdelorean" <gbsdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Transmission

Dear Experts
In the transmission, the manual is a 5 speed, the automatic is a 3.
Is there a significant difference in performance between the two?  
Specifically at the top end.  Can the automatic cruise at 75 and still 
have reserve power for passing?  Can the manual still go from 0-60 in 
10 seconds?
Thanks
GBS








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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2005 04:31:42 -0000
From: "dmc_5180" <dmc_5180_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: ERRR!!! Hot Start!!!

Joey,

Two other possibilities are, A bad check valve at the fuel pump. The early style pumps are 
built in and require pump replacement. the later style pumps have a replaceable check 
valve.  Another possibility is a leaking  injector, which allows system pressure to bleed off. 
remember pressures are equal at all injectors. If one leaks off pressure they all lose 
pressure. A fuel pressure check with a gauge would help you alot if you have a pressure 
tester.

Your carborated chevelle has nothing in common with a bosch fuel injection system.

Dennis

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Joey Morgan <jlm1701music_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>>
>> OK....PLEASE ADVISE...I replaced the fuel
>> accumulator(that was fun) only to still have a hot
>> start problem, so I replaced the O rings on the
>> pressure regulator and guess what? I still have a hot
>> start problem. ERRRR!!! Starts right up on the 1st try
>> cold. Has anyone had this problem? I had a 72 Chevelle
>> that had a similar problem, it would start right up
>> cold but would not start after it got hot, the problem
>> was the starter. Could that be the problem here??
>> Thanks in advance for any solutions you may have.
>> 
>> Joey
>> #6297
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 		
>> __________________________________ 
>> Yahoo! FareChase: Search multiple travel sites in one click.
>> http://farechase.yahoo.com
>>









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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2005 05:05:13 -0000
From: "dmc_5180" <dmc_5180_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Mode Switch Removal Method

Steve .

This can be tricky.  Sometimes you can reach your hand to the back side from the 
passenger side floor.  Their is one small screw that needs to be removed it is next to the 
switch shaft.  

The other more common way is too remove the A/C ducts above the radio. Gently pry the 
one piece assembly forward with a small flat blade screw driver.
Next remove the radio knobs to access the shaft nuts. Remove them and push the radio 
back in then lift it up through the duct opening and remove. Now you should have easy 
access too the switch and can disconnect it . Make sure you remember the wire 
orientations for re-installation.

When you go to reinstall everything, you may need to disassemble the A/C duct vents and 
re-install the outer shell first making sure the rubber air ducts are properly in place. Then 
you can install the vents individually. becareful with them they are plastic and fragile.

if you are causious with disassembly you should not hve any problem.

Dennis


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <p2freak_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>>
>> Group,
>> 
>> I've searched the archives at dmcnews about removing the mode switch from center 

dash 

>> board for repair.  According to parts drawing Section 7, sub 3, group 0, the mode switch 

is 

>> behind part 40 "RDO VENT & SW MT PLT".   It looks like there are differing opinions on 
>> whether the center console has to be removed or not to access the mode switch.  Which 
>> one is  correct?
>> 
>> So far, I've managed to remove the control knobs, indication lights, and AC facia (part 

35), 

>> but I am not sure what to do next. 
>> 
>> Problem sympton: No heat from vents and the windshield vents doesn't have any air 
>> output.
>> 
>> Your help is appreciated.
>> 
>> 
>> Steve
>> VIN#04421
>>








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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2005 19:25:10 -0800 (PST)
From: George DeLorean <phantomoftheopera_gk_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: won't go in reverse

Could be.  Check; flywheel/clutch, linkage, and if
none of that solves it, it may be a sleeve or a
synchro.  G.D.


	
		
__________________________________ 
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 
http://mail.yahoo.com




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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 00:52:21 -0400
From: "blane" <blane_at_dml_triad.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Yahoo Email Bouncing

Todd,

You could be filling up your alloted space on your ISP's server.  Go to your
browser options and click on delete e-mails from server after they are
downloaded.

Bill Lane
#3635
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 12, 2005 8:41 PM
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2979



>>
>>
>>






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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2005 06:11:02 -0000
From: "Dave" <vdavidj_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: New Steering Wheel - More Sporty

I wanted to put an aftermarket wheel on my car, and looked for some of
the same criteria you mentioned.  After several years I was never able
to settle on a wheel, but finally decided I wanted something similar
to the Lotus Esprit Sport 350 wheel.

It's one thing to find a wheel…and an entirely different animal tying
to get the thing on the DeLorean.  I wish it were plug-n-play...but
unfortunately it required some major modifications to two MOMO hubs to
get it to work properly.

The steering column is provided by GM, so any GM, GMC, or Chevrolet
MOMO adapter should fit the spline on the steering column. 
HOWEVER…those hubs don't have the appropriate setup you will need to
work the turn signal snap-back function.  And you may run into other
problems depending on the steering wheel you choose.

I put a picture of my steering wheel in the Files section under the
Cobra folder.  I was a little disappointed when the new DMCH steering
wheel looked similar to mine…so much for my wheel being unique.

Hope this is helpful.
Dave Jacobs


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "tuxr" <tuxdarby_at_dml_m...> wrote:

>>
>> I want to replace the steering wheel with something a little more 
>> modern, more sporty, with a touch of silver in it.  Maybe grips on the 
>> side of the wheel.  Anyone know where to get something like this, and 
>> will I have a hard time getting it fit into the Delorean, I don't know 
>> if an adapter is readily available to make it fit.  Also want to 
>> replace the automatic shift knob with something that has some silver 
>> in it, also more sporty.  Thanks very much.
>>










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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2005 01:28:11 -0500
From: Joe Angell <jangell_at_dml_tmproductions.com>
Subject: Re: Transmission


>> In the transmission, the manual is a 5 speed, the automatic is a 3.
>> Is there a significant difference in performance between the two?
>> Specifically at the top end.  Can the automatic cruise at 75 and still
>> have reserve power for passing?


I've only driven the 3 speed auto, but I understand the 5-speed has  
better performance.

I usually drive at a pretty good clip in my auto trans on the  
highway, and I haven't had any trouble passing other cars driving at  
those speeds, but I haven't really paid much attention either (which  
I guess means that it's acceptable for how I drive).  It's not quite  
as responsive as the 2004 Subaru Outback I had for a bit, but I've  
never had any real problems driving it like any other car.  In fact,  
my biggest problem is when I drive another car and forget that it's  
not the DeLorean and that I need to slow down more to go around sharp  
curves.  :) 

-- Joe






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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2005 06:11:20 -0000
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Can we ALL come to a correct definition of these DeLorean terms?

Can we ALL come to a correct definition of these DeLorean terms?



Simple,anything before vin 649(649 was the supposed first official 
car sold to the general public) IS company owned cars,(NOT to be used 
as a product for consumer use/or sold/for factory or 
authorised/assigned use only,then orignally meant to be destroyed or 
dismantled,or used by QAC for parts ect.
Anything after 
vin 648 is a product(ion) of/for consumer use,consumption/ownership 
ect. Bottom line,there were only two types of cars Company owned 
cars,or Customer owner cars,AND THE REAL TRUE #1 Prototype car was 
NOT even a Delorean...it was a Fiat X19,supposet #1 proto(the one 
owned by DMCF) IS really #2 proto,#2proto is really #3 proto ect.
cbl




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, George DeLorean 
<phantomoftheopera_gk_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>>
>> My words aren't really definitions, but I at least
>> thought of a way to shorten the terms. :P  George D.
>> 
>> 
>> 		
>> __________________________________ 
>> Start your day with Yahoo! - Make it your home page! 
>> http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
>>









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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2005 15:21:00 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Quick A/C pressure question...

Are you measuring the pressure with the A/C running? If you are the
pressure is way too high DO NOT ADD ANY REFRIGERENT! The system may
have air in it or some kind of different refrigerent besides R-12. If
that is the pressure at rest the pressure is low. You really shouldn't
add refrigerent without monitoring the high side too. Make sure the
coils (both condensor AND evaporator) are clean and are getting plenty
of airflow. Very difficult to know how much freon is in the system.
The only accurate way is to remove it and measure. This kind of work
is best left to a shop with the proper equipment.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "alex morgan" <mauibarber_at_dml_h...> wrote:

>>
>> Aloha,
>> I did a pressure check on the car and found that my low pressure

side reads 

>> about 47 at 80 degrees.  I can't find anything in any of my books

that shows 

>> a chart on how much freon is needed at these pressures.  i know the

pressure 

>> is supposed to be around 25-32.  I have two cans of R12.  If I put

one can 

>> in would this be too much?  Any help would be appreciated.
>> -Alex
>>









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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2005 08:53:49 -0000
From: "Dan" <djdanwilson_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: factory radio or aftermarket?

I'm trying to figure out if my stereo is factory installed, a warranty
replacement, or aftermarket.

My car is an '83, VIN 16192. In theory it should have come from the
factory with an ASI, but it has a Craig with an integrated clock on
the cassette door. There is no clock on the center console forward of
the shifter.

Here are links to a few pics of the stereo in my car:
http://home.earthlink.net/~djdanwilson/images/16192radio_1.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~djdanwilson/images/16192radio_2.jpg

Is this one of the Craig stereos w/ integrated clock that would have
been put in a DeLorean at the factory? Don Steger looked at this
stereo in my car first hand. He said that he personally had never seen
this particular Craig stereo, or the faceplate with the large "CRAIG"
written on it, in a DeLorean before, although he said it's from the
same family/series/era of stereos as the factory installed Craigs in
the pre VIN 10305 cars. Still, Dave Swingle did mention to me once
that the Craig stereos w/ integrated clock, in his words, were
"extremely rare". Could this be why Don had never seen one in a
DeLorean, and also why they are not mentioned in the Millennium
Concours handbook?

My window sticker does not list the brand of stereo, only that a
stereo was included. Oddly, it also says "DIGITAL CLOCK ... STD".

There's always the chance a previous owner could have put this Craig
in the car on their own, but I think it's unlikely because back in '83
why would the original owner go to the trouble of having an
independent stereo shop track down and install a Craig that sort of
looks like a mediocre sounding older factory Craig instead of buying
one of the hundreds of other random better sounding aftermarket brands
they would normally sell? I believe generally when a car is new,
nobody has "keep it original" on their minds. That's why I don't see
the original owner going for that Craig. From what I understand an
older couple owned it from '86-'03. I believe they are the ones who
put in a Sears cruise control, fabric seats, and a CHMSL on the
louvers, so originality didn't matter much to them. So why would they
put in that Craig and not some "whatever" brand? I bought it from the
third owner, and he said it was there when he got it.

So, anyone have some solid knowledge or good theories as to whether
this is a "rare" factory installed Craig, a dealer or QAC warranty
replacement, or store bought?

Dan W.
VIN 16192







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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2005 15:26:32 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: won't go in reverse

There is no syncro for reverse. Check the gearshift adjsutments. Are
you lifting the gearshft knob to put it into reverse? There is a
safety gate to keep you from accidently finding reverse that you lift
the knob to get past. If you still can't find reverse you may have
trouble inside the transmission.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, George DeLorean
<phantomoftheopera_gk_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>>
>> Could be.  Check; flywheel/clutch, linkage, and if
>> none of that solves it, it may be a sleeve or a
>> synchro.  G.D.
>> 
>> 
>> 	
>> 		
>> __________________________________ 
>> Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 
>> http://mail.yahoo.com
>>









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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2005 06:17:25 -0000
From: "lakelanier20" <derek4567_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: "Exotic" show in Aiken, SC (11-12-05)

On another car forum, someone posted a link to this gallery of a car 
show this past Sautrday in Aiken, SC. I see what looks like 2 
different DeLoreans in attendance. Anyone from this group? Or someone 
you know?

http://www.jmengel.com/shows/aecs/

-Derek L
VIN 5302 







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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2005 08:41:55 EST
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: dcs Mode Switch Removal Method in magazine

In Vol 1 issue 3 there is an article with pictures on how to remove the  mode 
switch.
It is complete with a description and a number of useful pictures.
 
You can get it at
 
_www.deloreancarshow.com_ (http://www.deloreancarshow.com) 
 
Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2005 10:54:53 -0600
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: exhaust manifold problem - what would you do?

Sometimes the best tool to use is time - time soaking in PB Blaster, Kroil, 
or some other penetrant, that is. Be sure to allow any penetrants you are 
using a lot of time to work. Days, if necessary. (Of course you have to keep 
reapplying penetrant periodically as it wil evaporate.)

Sometimes even penetrant and a lot of time does not work, however. You can 
also try heating the remnant of the stud to red hot and letting it cool 
before removing, and could try spot welding a good 11 MM nut to the stud, or 
double-nutting it so that you can try the wrench again before resorting to 
stud extractors.

I think the Dremel idea is a good one since it will leave you with a 
protruding stud that you can then work on. I would not try turning that one 
out in its present state since you may break the stud off flush with the 
ehad which would complicate things. By cutting off the bolt head you'll be 
left with somethng to work with.

Good luck!

Joe Kuchan



>>From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
>>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: [DML] exhaust manifold problem - what would you do?
>>Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2005 16:09:34 EST
>>
>>List,
>>
>>I am currently working on removing my exhaust manifolds (engine is out of
>>car) for gasket service.
>>
>>First of all, on the left side manifold (dipstick side), the top three
>>fasteners for the manifold were studs with 11mm nuts on them.  The lower  
>>three
>>were 11mm head bolts!  Is that factory?  





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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2005 20:18:01 -0000
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Loose door strut attachment

Hello all.
  I was inspecting the door struts on my D and I noticed that the stud 
where the strut attaches to the car body is a little loose.  It wiggles 
when I lift the weight of the door off the gas strut.
Is that normal?  Will it damage anything if left that way, and can it 
be tightened?

Matt Smith







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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2005 20:14:30 -0000
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Water pump pulley. Or, how do I get the _at_dml_^#$^% thing off.

Hello all.
  What it the correct procedure for removing the water pump pulley?  I 
was only able to remove mine after destroying the old water pump to 
press the shaft out using a hydraulic press.
There must be a tool to remove and re-install the pulley without 
damaging anything.  Something similar to a power steering pulley 
remover perhaps?  What do the Volvo dealers use?

Matt Smith







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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2005 20:59:10 -0000
From: "Josh Porter" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: 7003

Where did 7003 end up? 

It's the car that was for sale in Little Rock Arkansas. I would like to 
start an Arkansas DeLorean owners club aka (ARDMC) but as it stands 
there are only two active members that live in Arkansas; that I know 
about, and one of them is me.

I take it that the car did not go far since the new owner looked at it 
the weekend before he bought it.

Josh
10989







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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2005 21:15:57 -0000
From: "coreysmoo" <coreysmoo_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Brake Master Cylinder

I just got my new brake master cylinder the other day.  Now, can anybody give me a 
step by step on what I need to do to replace it?  I've located the access panel in the 
trunk already, but I need to know the step by step for removal of the old, and 
replacement with the new.

Corey
2423







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