Subject:[DML] Digest Number 2983
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:15 Nov 2005 20:29:10 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Can we ALL come to a correct definition of these DeLorean terms?
From: DMCPROTO1_at_dml_aol.com

2. Re: Transmission
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

3. Re: Quick A/C pressure question...
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

4. Re: ERRR!!! Hot Start!!!
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

5. Re: Water pump pulley. Or, how do I get the _at_dml_^#$^% thing off.
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

6. Re: Brake Master Cylinder
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

7. Re: Yahoo Email Bouncing
From: Todd Nelson <todd1561_at_dml_gmail.com>

8. auto trans computer governor repair?
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

9. Re: auto trans computer governor repair?
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

10. Re: Yahoo Email Bouncing
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

11. A/C pressure
From: "alex morgan" <mauibarber_at_dml_hotmail.com>

12. Re: A/C pressure
From: Qumefox <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>

13. Re: Can we ALL come to a correct definition of these DeLorean terms?
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

14. New DMCH Performance Exhaust Inquiring feedback?
From: Jason McKee <tymchsr_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. 911, engine running on 3 cylinders
From: "odell_andy" <odell_andy_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

16. Re: Re: Water pump pulley. Or, how do I get the _at_dml_^#$^% thing off.
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

17. 911, engine running on 3 cylinders MORE INFO
From: "odell_andy" <odell_andy_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

18. Re: Water pump pulley. Or, how do I get the _at_dml_^#$^% thing off.
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>

19. Re: Water pump pulley. Or, how do I get the _at_dml_^#$^% thing off.
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

20. Turn Signal Snapback function
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. Re: 911, engine running on 3 cylinders MORE INFO
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

22. Re: Turn Signal Snapback function
From: "Josh Haldeman" <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>

23. Bilstein Shock Progress
From: "Shain Brannan" <dsmguy_at_dml_ptd.net>

24. Re: Re: Water pump pulley. Or, how do I get the _at_dml_^#$^% thing off.
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

25. Start-up RPM's
From: "coreysmoo" <coreysmoo_at_dml_hotmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2005 20:14:02 EST
From: DMCPROTO1_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Can we ALL come to a correct definition of these DeLorean terms?

Sorry, but way off. The X19 was not a Prototype it was just an experiment. 
The first DeLorean prototype car built is Proto #1, not a production Fiat that 
they played with an engine swap.

Tony Ierardi




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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2005 02:19:06 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Transmission

In the specs section of the manual you will discover that the the auto 
is like having 2 - 3 - 4 of the 5 speed trans with a torque converter 
attached. This makes in my experience, the auto a bit quicker 0 to 50 
but then you have a top end with a 4th gear and a non-lock-up torque 
converter - i.e., slower.

Having had both and driven both for many miles - I prefer the auto for 
the sort of driving I do now, but for fun the 5 speed is hard to beat.

I usually set my auto on cruse at around 70 mph which maintains about 
3200 rpm, which is not too bad. A 5 speed would be about 2700 rpm if I 
remember correctly. Gas mileage is less than a 5 speed of course but 
passing is fast enough. The top speed starts coming slower at around 
85-90.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "gbsdelorean" <gbsdelorean_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>>
>> Dear Experts
>> In the transmission, the manual is a 5 speed, the automatic is a 3.
>> Is there a significant difference in performance between the two?  
>> Specifically at the top end.  Can the automatic cruise at 75 and 

still 

>> have reserve power for passing?  Can the manual still go from 0-60 

in 

>> 10 seconds?
>> Thanks
>> GBS
>>









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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2005 01:50:11 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Quick A/C pressure question...

When David says AC "running" he means at 2,000 RPM too, fan speed on 
high and ac mode switch on max. Both air fans in front should be 
running well also.

David's right - leave this sort of thing to the folks that know AC 
and have the right tools. In your area that should be easy.

BTW what is the problem?

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_o...> 
wrote:

>>
>> Are you measuring the pressure with the A/C running? If you are the
>> pressure is way too high DO NOT ADD ANY REFRIGERENT! The system may
>> have air in it or some kind of different refrigerent besides R-12. 

If

>> that is the pressure at rest the pressure is low. You really 

shouldn't

>> add refrigerent without monitoring the high side too. Make sure the
>> coils (both condensor AND evaporator) are clean and are getting 

plenty

>> of airflow. Very difficult to know how much freon is in the system.
>> The only accurate way is to remove it and measure. This kind of 

work

>> is best left to a shop with the proper equipment.
>> David Teitelbaum
>> vin 10757
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "alex morgan" <mauibarber_at_dml_h...> 

wrote:

>>> >
>>> > Aloha,
>>> > I did a pressure check on the car and found that my low pressure
>
>> side reads 
>
>>> > about 47 at 80 degrees.  I can't find anything in any of my books
>
>> that shows 
>
>>> > a chart on how much freon is needed at these pressures.  i know 

the

>> pressure 
>
>>> > is supposed to be around 25-32.  I have two cans of R12.  If I 

put

>> one can 
>
>>> > in would this be too much?  Any help would be appreciated.
>>> > -Alex
>>> >
>
>>









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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2005 02:19:15 -0000
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: ERRR!!! Hot Start!!!

hi

i know this sidesteps the real problem a little but you could fit 
the specialtauto relay which has a switch to force the cold start 
valve to operate when you want.
a least you know you won't have to fiddle under the engine bay when 
she rufuses to start.
i gather some pedal travel required when starting is normal

Regards

steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Ed" <edgarbade_at_dml_h...> wrote:

>>
>> Joey,
>> I  have a continuing "hot start" like problem.  Replaced 

accumulator and

>> fuel distribution unit but that did not help. 





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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2005 02:22:27 -0000
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Water pump pulley. Or, how do I get the _at_dml_^#$^% thing off.

hi

i would just take to a workshop.
just had mine rebuilt in the UK including pulley remove/install shot 
blast, rebuild, lifetime guarantee for 50 (or %100ish)

i assume you'd find somewhere similar over there??

Regards

Steve


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmc_5180" <dmc_5180_at_dml_y...> wrote:

>>
>> Matt,
>> 
>> Heat the pulley near the shaft with a torch or a VERY hot heat gun.
>> the aluminum pulley will expand around the shaft area and 

vertually 

>> fall off. just be sure to keep the heat consentrated on the pulley 
>> center and keep moving it around the shaft. Once it is off, just 

let 

>>





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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2005 02:29:01 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Brake Master Cylinder

If you do not have a shop manual - now is the time to invest in one. 
That is one thing the manual is rather complete on. The vendor you got 
your MC from should have them.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "coreysmoo" <coreysmoo_at_dml_h...> wrote:

>>
>> I just got my new brake master cylinder the other day.  Now, can 

anybody give me a 

>> step by step on what I need to do to replace it?  I've located the 

access panel in the 

>> trunk already, but I need to know the step by step for removal of 

the old, and 

>> replacement with the new.
>> 
>> Corey
>> 2423
>>










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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2005 21:42:07 -0500
From: Todd Nelson <todd1561_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Yahoo Email Bouncing

Thanks guys for all the replies. Upon further investigation this actually
looks like a Yahoo problem. They're the one on the blacklists not me. I
traced the IP address that my mail server was rejecting and it belongs to
yahoo (216.155.201.59 <http://216.155.201.59>). If you look on many of the
major blacklists, Yahoo is listed. So I guess the mail server I use is using
some of these lists for SPAM filtering, and rejecting yahoo. I see Dave
Swingle set up a test DMCNews group on google groups, any thoughts of making
that a reality?  :-) 
 Thanks again,
Todd Nelson
1561, Vermont
http://www.rit.edu/~tan5732

 On 10/13/05, blane <blane_at_dml_triad.rr.com> wrote:

>>
>> Todd,
>>
>> You could be filling up your alloted space on your ISP's server. Go to
>> your
>> browser options and click on delete e-mails from server after they are
>> downloaded.
>>
>> Bill Lane
>> #3635



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2005 21:42:19 EST
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: auto trans computer governor repair?

 
 
JC Take a look at these two links on the dmcnews.com web site.
_http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/transputer2.htm_ 
(http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/transputer2.htm) 
_http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/transputer3.htm_ 
(http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/transputer3.htm) 
 
D & 6530


Message: 2
Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2005 01:02:09 -0000
From: "realrealgone" <realrealgone_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: auto trans computer governor repair?

anyone know how to repair one of these things? im good with a  
soldering iron and know my way around circuit boards. any help with be  
apperciated.

-Jc




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2005 03:00:53 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: auto trans computer governor repair?

You might want to check the technical info section of this list (from 
the home page). There are several good articles to help you understand 
what you might be able to do.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "realrealgone" <realrealgone_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:

>>
>> anyone know how to repair one of these things? im good with a 
>> soldering iron and know my way around circuit boards. any help with 

be 

>> apperciated.
>> 
>> -Jc
>>









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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2005 03:56:16 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Yahoo Email Bouncing

Google Groups is still "beta" (and has been for over a year). Until 
Google thinks it's "production" and adds in some of the features, 
like places for files and photos, we're not really ready to move the 
group there. 

The best suggestion for this problem is to set up a Yahoo email 
account and use it just for the DML and/or your other Yahoo groups. 
They never bounce their own stuff. 

It seems that some ISPs use some 3rd party filter service 
called "spamcop" and something causes it to blacklist the group 
occasionally. I've had the problem myself. Generally it clears up in 
a day or two, but I agree its annoying to have to keep resetting your 
account. 

Dave Swingle


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Todd Nelson <todd1561_at_dml_g...> wrote:

>>


 So I guess the mail server I use is using

>> some of these lists for SPAM filtering, and rejecting yahoo. I see 

Dave

>> Swingle set up a test DMCNews group on google groups, any thoughts 

of making

>> that a reality?  :-) 
>>  Thanks again,
>> Todd Nelson
>> 1561, Vermont
>> http://www.rit.edu/~tan5732
>> 








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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2005 04:05:50 +0000
From: "alex morgan" <mauibarber_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: A/C pressure

I had the A/C running on max speed max air, fans running but at idle not at 
2000 rpm.  The problem is that the compressor is cycling every 6-7 (should 
be around 12) seconds and seems like it could be a little bit cooler.  I 
installed a brand new low pressure switch and adjusted it a bit but it didnt 
seem to help much.  High side measured perfect the low side was high 
however.  This could be though becasue it was at idle and not cycling like 
it would at 2000 rpm.

Everything I read tells me that if its cycling to quickly and the pressure 
switch is ok then it is probably low freon.  It is blowing fairly cold and 
cyclilng so I don't believe it has air in the system.
-Alex


Quote:
When David says AC "running" he means at 2,000 RPM too, fan speed on
high and ac mode switch on max. Both air fans in front should be
running well also.

David's right - leave this sort of thing to the folks that know AC
and have the right tools. In your area that should be easy.

BTW what is the problem?

Harold McElraft - 3354






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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2005 22:42:18 -0600
From: Qumefox <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>
Subject: Re: A/C pressure

alex morgan wrote:


>>I had the A/C running on max speed max air, fans running but at idle not at
>>2000 rpm.  The problem is that the compressor is cycling every 6-7 (should
>>be around 12) seconds and seems like it could be a little bit cooler.  I
>>installed a brand new low pressure switch and adjusted it a bit but it didnt
>>seem to help much.  High side measured perfect the low side was high
>>however.  This could be though becasue it was at idle and not cycling like
>>it would at 2000 rpm.
>>
>>Everything I read tells me that if its cycling to quickly and the pressure
>>switch is ok then it is probably low freon.  It is blowing fairly cold and
>>cyclilng so I don't believe it has air in the system.
>>-Alex


>>

Quick question. Are you positive your AC system has r12 in it and not
r134a?  If it's been filled with 134a then it should have different
fittings installed on the high and low side hookups. If it has had 134a
put in it, then your system is probably working just fine. 134a runs at
higher pressures, and doesn't cool nearly as well as r12.

--

Chris
VIN# 03209
http://badger.brazi.net/index.pl/delorean





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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2005 06:04:35 -0000
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Can we ALL come to a correct definition of these DeLorean terms?

The red rocket aka the x19 was(to be) the prototype to help set the 
standards for the future DMC.And if you also  look at page 31 of 
SSI,THAT is what they call it,THE first Delorean Prototype! The red 
rocket.Hey I am only quoting printed fact here. 
So they used the x19 since it was the basic concept of what the 
future Delorean was to be,(engineering wise)to try possible future 
engines/drivetrains,they even setup/offset the drivetrain so that it 
sat behind the rear axles(ford V6),of the x19(x19's were mid engined)
also remember the DMC was supposed to be originally a (Wankel or Ford 
V6 engined) car,Again(it was supposed to be) the first basic  
engineering proto to help setup the engineering for the future DMC 
proto cars as we know of today.

The reason to use the x19 was,Because at the time they had,NO WAY of 
making a DMC proto as we know of today,(it was THE quickest and 
cheapest route) since,Giugiaro WAS STILL trying to design  your 
proto! And no DMC engineering(no Lotus contract yet) had yet begun 
since there was no concept, yet except for the x19(since Lotus was 
not yet even in the picture),hence concept 1 or proto1,in the same 
sense as your proto,SINCE it TO shares NOTHING(interchangeable),with 
the actual 
production car,except for the concept,JUST like the x19 ! Your proto 
did the same as the x19 was supposed to,and that was to set 
standards,in engineering,but in your case also the styling.(which was 
later re-engineered/updated),but in the case of the x19 they scrapped 
it when better things emerged,BUT could have been! 
cbl



 --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, DMCPROTO1_at_dml_a... wrote:

>>
>> Sorry, but way off. The X19 was not a Prototype it was just an 

experiment. 

>> The first DeLorean prototype car built is Proto #1, not a 

production Fiat that 

>> they played with an engine swap.
>> 
>> Tony Ierardi
>>









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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2005 23:02:41 -0800 (PST)
From: Jason McKee <tymchsr_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: New DMCH Performance Exhaust Inquiring feedback?

Hello group, Is there any body who has installed the
new performance exhaust from DMCH recently. I'm
concidering it, but its looks pricy, but very nice. I
just want to get some feedback from anybody that
installed it on there Delorean. If so, does it make a
differance in accelleration? Does it have a nice
rumble, loud or mellow? Does it look good on the car
(hang to low or just right)? Do the tips hang out to
far or in the stock location and are they cut straight
or at a 45 deg. angle?  Installation easy or hard? Any
information and/or feedback would be very helpful with
my choice. Thanks for your time:)

Jason McKee
4839



		
__________________________________ 
Yahoo! FareChase: Search multiple travel sites in one click.
http://farechase.yahoo.com




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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2005 14:46:38 -0000
From: "odell_andy" <odell_andy_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: 911, engine running on 3 cylinders

ok, so my D seemed a bit sluggish. ran a compression test, all 147-170.
tried to check rpm with dwell and discovered only Left 3 cylinders
have spark. on the Right hand cylinders it makes no difference if the
plugs are in or not! amazingly after 10mph it still picks up really well!
so, the only other fault i have on the car is no RPM / Tachometer
gauge. (gauge goes from 7000 to 7200 when key is turned, otherwise
static.)
all other wiring is corrrect. i think these faults are related.
so, is it the pulse coil  or distributor (or something else)?

please help, i have only ever driven the car twice (owned for 16
months), and i really want to get it out on the road again! (prefably
on 6 cylinders)
thanks for your help and time,
Andy







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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2005 09:08:25 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Water pump pulley. Or, how do I get the _at_dml_^#$^% thing off.

The original pulley is steel, not aluminium. You remove it by taking the 
back plate off the pump and with the aid of a longish high tensile M10 
bolt threaded into the end of the pump shaft, press the shaft out 
through the pump. You will need a hydraulic press and it'll crack at a 
good couple of tons or more.

Don't try pulling the pulley off.

Martin
DMC Ltd
www.delorean.co.uk





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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2005 15:45:52 -0000
From: "odell_andy" <odell_andy_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: 911, engine running on 3 cylinders MORE INFO

the distributor cap & spinning peg(?) are brand new, so are the leads.
plugs all test good. the white/slate wire is connected to the
distributor base. What would cause only the Left 3 plugs to fire?
distributor cap is on correctly. all parts are from delorean specialists.
any ideas? 

ps you would be amazed how well the engine runs on 3 cylinders. pretty
slow to accelerate from 0-10mph, then picks up well.(doesnt like
hills). i would prefer all 6 to work however. it has also just passed
its emmissions test in this state.
im not mistaken. to confirm i have pulled the 3 right hand leads off
the spark plugs with the engine running.(don't try yourself!) it makes
no difference to how the engine runs and sounds.

the new leads all test 3.3-3.5 ohms resistance. (also tested old set, 2.5)








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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2005 15:58:34 -0000
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Water pump pulley. Or, how do I get the _at_dml_^#$^% thing off.

Hmmm...
  What is the proper tool for supporting the pulley while pressing 
the shaft out of it?  When I did that the center of the pulley 
started to distort and press down with the shaft.  I was able to re-
straighten the pulley.

Matt Smith


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_d...> wrote:

>>
>> The original pulley is steel, not aluminium. You remove it by 

taking the 

>> back plate off the pump and with the aid of a longish high tensile 

M10 

>> bolt threaded into the end of the pump shaft, press the shaft out 
>> through the pump. You will need a hydraulic press and it'll crack 

at a 

>> good couple of tons or more.
>> 
>> Don't try pulling the pulley off.
>> 
>> Martin
>> DMC Ltd
>> www.delorean.co.uk
>>









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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2005 16:39:26 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Water pump pulley. Or, how do I get the _at_dml_^#$^% thing off.

This is the way I do it as well. (I use an appropriate size series of 
sockets rather than the screw Martin mentions, although if you have a 
hardened screw its probably safer.) There's really no issue 
with "destroying" the pump, if you are going to rebuild it you will 
be pressing the impeller shaft out anyway, if you are going to throw 
it away then you don't care. 

I don't support the pulley at all. It will move toward the pump about 1/4 inch and then stop when it bottoms against the pump. The shaft will continue out the back. 

Just remember when you press it on to the new one to support the 
impeller SHAFT from underneath or you'll press the shaft right out of 
that one too. Do not just support the impeller, it is cast iron and 
will crack. Here I also use a small socket. (I have some old ones that I don't much care about that I use as press fixtures.)

I have a cheap 10-ton Harbor Freight press and it works fine for 
this. 

If you don't want to mess with all this, the pre-installed-pulley 
versions from the vendors are definitely the way to go. 

Dave S


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_d...> wrote:

>>
>> The original pulley is steel, not aluminium. You remove it by 

taking the 

>> back plate off the pump and with the aid of a longish high tensile 

M10 

>> bolt threaded into the end of the pump shaft, press the shaft out 
>> through the pump. You will need a hydraulic press and it'll crack 

at a 

>> good couple of tons or more.









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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2005 16:46:14 -0000
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Turn Signal Snapback function

I recently had to replace the turn signal appratus, as the wiperswitch 
control arm had been broken. I purchased a new setup from one of the 
vendors along with the lower portion of the steering column, and have 
found that when I put back on the wheel, (it was off by about 20 
degrees at the time) that the snapback function did not function. I 
thought that this was normal, although now that I look back it used to 
work. Initially I thought it was due to the fact that the steering 
wheel was off at the time. I pulled the steering wheel again, and 
straightened it out (now I am only off by about 5 degrees now) Did I 
miss something when I put the turnsignal/wiper control arm appratus 
on? I did not have any leftover parts when complete. Is there 
something I need to hook to the steering wheel itself? 

Thanks
Sean







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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2005 17:00:53 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: 911, engine running on 3 cylinders MORE INFO

Andy - That peg is called the rotor...

You may also have a fuel injector problem on those cylinders.  If you 
have a timing light, put it on one of the bad cylinders and see if it
fires.  If you don't have a light, remove one of the spark plugs from the 
bad cylinders.  Attach it to the spark plug wire and hold the side of the 
plug against the block with a pair of pliers gripping the spark plug
boot and start the car.  If you see a spark, you have a fuel delivery
problem, not an ignition problem.

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "odell_andy" <odell_andy_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>: -------------- 



>> the distributor cap & spinning peg(?) are brand new, so are the leads. 
>> plugs all test good. the white/slate wire is connected to the 
>> distributor base. What would cause only the Left 3 plugs to fire? 
>> distributor cap is on correctly. all parts are from delorean specialists. 
>> any ideas? 
>> 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2005 12:55:47 -0500
From: "Josh Haldeman" <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Turn Signal Snapback function

Hey Sean,

Yes...there is a ring that the steering wheel has to slide into in the proper position for the "snapback" function to work.  You have to be careful not to crush this when reinstalling the steering wheel.  If you haven't crushed it already, you can test it out by removing the wheel...setting the turn signal, and then spinning the ring to find the right position for it, so that it shuts off both the left and the right signal arm.

Good luck,
Josh
Cincinnati Used DeLorean Parts
http://tinyurl.com/cm2dt
VIN 5102
VIN 15964


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2005 11:46 AM
Subject: [DML] Turn Signal Snapback function



>>I recently had to replace the turn signal appratus, as the wiperswitch 
>> control arm had been broken. I purchased a new setup from one of the 
>> vendors along with the lower portion of the steering column, and have 
>> found that when I put back on the wheel, (it was off by about 20 
>> degrees at the time) that the snapback function did not function. I 
>> thought that this was normal, although now that I look back it used to 
>> work. Initially I thought it was due to the fact that the steering 
>> wheel was off at the time. I pulled the steering wheel again, and 
>> straightened it out (now I am only off by about 5 degrees now) Did I 
>> miss something when I put the turnsignal/wiper control arm appratus 
>> on? I did not have any leftover parts when complete. Is there 
>> something I need to hook to the steering wheel itself? 
>> 
>> Thanks
>> Sean





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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2005 17:50:15 -0000
From: "Shain Brannan" <dsmguy_at_dml_ptd.net>
Subject: Bilstein Shock Progress

Hey Guys,

This is a repost for everyone who asked about my bilstein shock 
setup alternative.  I figured i would post it to the list so in the 
future if someone was interested they could do a simple search to 
find it.

The front shocks are part # B46-1325.  These require no modification 
to install, and require you to shim each side of the islet since it 
is smaller than the orgional shocks.  Washer could be use or you 
could have the machine shop mill you some.

Rear shocks are part # AK-1249.  These shocks must be use with 
bilsteain coil over kit # 193117, 46mm coilover kit.  This kit is a 
threaded shaft with adjustable collar.  it slides over the shock.  
it is support by a snap ring, which is provided in the kit.  The 
snap ring groove must be machined in the shock itself.  Bilstein can 
do this for you for $10 a shock or you can have your shop mill it.  
My groove is machined 1" from the shock bottom, using Bilsteain 
provided specs on width = 1.6mm, OD Max = 48.50 mm, OD Min = 48.34 
mm.  This allows for a rear adjustable ride setup.  Rear coil spring 
perches needed to be expanded to accomodate the wider spring 
sleeve.  Just go to a muffler shop and they'll expand it for you for 
a clean look.

That is is.  I will let you know how it rides in a few days.  I've 
been a little busy to finish up my transmission drive seal 
replacement.  

Cheers,

Shain 







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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2005 19:06:20 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Water pump pulley. Or, how do I get the _at_dml_^#$^% thing off.

You're pressing on the pulley, not on the shaft. The pulley is made in 
two parts, the pressed flimsy outer bit and a (very) solid tube down the 
middle. You need to press the shaft out from inside this tube. You're 
probably pressing on the whole thing which is why I always use a bolt, 
or a well aligned socket as Dave says. If you need to just start it, 
there's a short M10 bolt easily accessible to the left of your engine 
holding the left exhaust bracket to the engine block with a 17mm head. 
Use that partially threaded into the shaft to get it started, then 
you'll know where you are.

As we always fit OEM pumps which include the back plate, I install the 
pulleys using a well greased bolt, nut and several washers.

I have pressed one pulley off that took about 12 tons to crack and when 
it finally came off, was a loose fit on the new pump and had to be 
replaced. Bizarre!

Martin

dmcchaser wrote:


>>Hmmm...
>>  What is the proper tool for supporting the pulley while pressing 
>>the shaft out of it?  When I did that the center of the pulley 
>>started to distort and press down with the shaft.  I was able to re-
>>straighten the pulley.
>>
>>Matt Smith
>>
>>  
>>







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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2005 19:22:25 -0000
From: "coreysmoo" <coreysmoo_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Start-up RPM's

Just a quick question...

I've never heard another DeLorean start up besides mine, so I'm not sure if this is 
normal.  Actually, I've never heard any other car start up like this, so I'm fairly sure 
this is not normal.  Anyways, When I first turn the key, the car starts up and shoots 
the RPM's up to around 3000 and stays there for about 15 seconds.  Then it settles 
down to around 800.  The throttle does not move at all while this is happening.  Any 
thoughts?

Also, I did fix the brake master cylinder problem.  I don't really feel like revisiting the 
event, but I'm sure everyone would get a laugh out of the story.  So just know that the 
problem is gone, and I have a new, never used, still in the box master cylinder if 
anyone needs one.  :) 

Corey
2423







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