Subject:[DML] Digest Number 3004
From:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date:30 Nov 2005 19:05:50 -0000
To:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Houston Parade of Lights Sunday December 11th
From: "birdwell77095" <birdwells_at_dml_usa.net>

2. Re: Oil leak, ideas and inspiration!!
From: "Chris Williams" <chris_at_dml_cwilliams68.fsnet.co.uk>

3. Power door locks
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>

4. Re: Removing Clock
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Re: 2006 Millennium Concours in Chicago
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>

6. Re: DeLoreans and Tow dollys
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Reproduction Dash and Binnicle
From: "dmcerik" <dmcerik_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. Re: Removing Clock
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>

9. DeLorean Dealership sign font
From: "M. P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>

10. Re: Idle is lousy until it hits about 105 degrees in engine
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com

11. Re: Oil leak, ideas and inspiration!!
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Used Parts (was: What goes in a remanufactured car?)
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_delorean.com>

13. Re: Leaking Seals...or something else?
From: "outatym2001" <markman660_at_dml_ncplus.net>

14. Re: DeLoreans and Tow dollys
From: "Josh Porter" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. My new suspension upgrade done!!!!
From: "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com>

16. Re: Re: Jumping Out of 5th Gear
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

17. Optima Battery...you want fries with that?
From: Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>

18. Re: Re: Jumping Out of 5th Gear
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

19. Re: Oil leak, ideas and inspiration!!
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

20. Re: Re: Oil leak, ideas and inspiration!!
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

21. Re: Oil leak, ideas and inspiration!!
From: "Manny Sajiun" <mannyone_at_dml_optonline.net>

22. Re: Power door locks
From: Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>

23. Holiday Parade in NJ
From: DmcGman_at_dml_comcast.net

24. Re: DeLorean Dealership sign font
From: DANIEL SHANE <daniel.shane_at_dml_btinternet.com>

25. Re: Power door locks
From: "Dan" <djdanwilson_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 13:49:18 -0000
From: "birdwell77095" <birdwells_at_dml_usa.net>
Subject: Houston Parade of Lights Sunday December 11th

The Parade of Lights is coming less than two weeks away. It will be 
held on Sunday December 11th. Cost is $25. It starts about 6:15 and 
ends about 7:30. Afterwards we can meet to eat at 290 and Highway 6. 
I suggest we meet at Johnny Carino's which is an Italian food 
restaurant. The parade will head north on Highway 6 towards 290 so 
it will be convenient to continue on to 290. The website for 
information and online registration is at: 
http://www.tvffrf.org/parade.php. You can register at the event or 
online. Below is information from their website:

The annnual TVFFRF Parade of Lights date has been set for December 
11, 2005
Register Online!
Join us for Christmas through the Eyes of Children
This is a wonderful event where firefighters decorate their pumpers, 
boosters, rescue trucks, ambulances, or anything they wish and join 
the parade to do the one thing firefighters do best... show off to 
the public and other firefighters.

All participants must be in place no later than 5:45 p.m. Judging 
begins at 6:15 p.m.

START: 
The Parade of Lights starts at the K-Mart parking lot located at 
4815 Hwy 6 _at_dml_ Loch Katrine

FINISH:
The Parade ends at the Sears parking lot located at 8475 Hwy 6 _at_dml_ 
West Road

WHAT
Vehicles of all shapes and sizes, dressed out in Christmas lights 
and ornaments... a spectacle like no other!

WHO:
Anyone who wants to join in the fun and strut your stuff

This event has grown considerably over the years and has become a 
favorite among the public. If you are interested in either joining 
the parade or being a sponsor, contact the Texas Volunteer 
Firefighter's Relief Fund at tvffrf_at_dml_tvffrf.org.

If you would like to see some of the happenings from the previous 
Parade of Lights, look here.

The prices for this event is as follows:

Non-Profit $25.00 


Shannon
VIN 16113









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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 13:42:31 -0000
From: "Chris Williams" <chris_at_dml_cwilliams68.fsnet.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Oil leak, ideas and inspiration!!

Ah yes, sorry should have mentioned that I had checked that one out 
already. There is oil definatly 
leaking from somewhere around/below water pump. I shoved some 
absorbent paper down behind the water pump and it did come up with 
fresh oil on it, so really if my thinking is correct it can be a; 
oil leak from block (but if this were the case would it not be a 
huge leak due to oil pressure??) b; timing chain cover near the top. 
c; rear main throwing it everywhere? Any one got any thoughts, or 
should I bite the bullet and start stripping things, or leave it 
until it gets really bad.
thanks
Chris
Vin#4584

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_o...> 
wrote:

>>
>> Before you go crazy looking for the oil leak check the oil pressure
>> sender on the left side of the motor. It is very common for them to
>> leak and make it seem like it is the pan gasket or whatever. The
>> sender can be resealed or replaced.
>> David Teitelbaum
>> vin 10757
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Chris Williams" <chris_at_dml_c...> 

wrote:

>>> >
>>> > Hi all,
>>
>>>> > >Right, I had noticed a small oil leak that I thought was coming 

from 

>>>> > >the crankshaft oil seal. However upon looking closer it looks 

like it 

>>>> > >is coming from above the crank and below the water pump. So 

does this 

>>>> > >mean that I am about to lose all my oil pressure one day when 

an oil 

>>>> > >way in the 'valley of death' burst's or is there anywhere else 

that 

>>>> > >can leak oil above the crankshaft that I have overlooked?
>>>> > >Or should i just be on the lookout for a new block   :-( 
>>>> > >I have had some great ideas from Martin, but would like to 

throw this 

>>> > open for everones ideas.
>>> > 
>>
>>>> > >Thanks All,
>>>> > >
>>>> > >Chris
>>>> > >Vin#4584
>>
>>> >
>
>>









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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 16:04:12 -0000
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Power door locks

Hello all.
  I'm about to dive in and start diagnosing the inoperative power
locks in my D.  What I need to know is, how are they supposed to work?
For example, when can I expect the passenger's door to lock and unlock?
In my Toyota (an 85 Celica) the driver's door is unlocked using the
key, then a second twist to the unlock position unlocks the
passenger's side too.  I know the D is different, but I don't know
what I should expect.

Matt Smith







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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 16:01:26 -0000
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Removing Clock

I will make 2 assumptions here. 1 you have a manual transmission, and 
2. your clock is mounted on the panel cover assembly by the gearshift.
Personally, I have a Manual Transmission automobile and i needed to 
replace the shift boot, as well as the metal plate in which the clock 
and the rheostat resides.

If you have a manual transmission and your vin is lower than 006159, 
1. Disconnect the power from the battery.
2. unscrew the shift ball. 
3.There are 2 screws near the power window buttons remove those.
4. Lift up the panel cover assembly from the back (of the car) to the 
front (of the car). 
5. Turn it over.
6. Locate the clock.
7. Remove the wires (they should unclip/slide off) you can figure it 
out, and remember where they fit
6. There should be 2 either screws or bolts holding on the clock. 
Remove them.
7. Put in the new clock or block the hole or buy panel cover assembly 
with no clock hole. Not really sure what you want to do.
8. If you are putting in a new clock, insert the clock with the two 
pin/pen buttons towards the rear of the automobile.
9. Reconnect the wires.
10. Re-Insert the panel cover assembly
11. Re-place the shift ball back on the shifter
12. Reconnnect the power


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "tuxr" <tuxdarby_at_dml_m...> wrote:

>>
>> Can the clock be removed without taking alot apart?  Does it pop 

out 

>> somehow?
>>










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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 16:24:01 -0000
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>
Subject: Re: 2006 Millennium Concours in Chicago

The Millennium Concours at the DMCH open house this year was the 
first one organized by the new team, and we expect to take a lot of 
our learnings into the next event at DCS'06. Thanks to Ken for 
inviting us to organize a competition at DCS'06.

Although you can sign up for the concours directly on Ken's DCS 
registration page, as Dave suggests please also let Marty know so we 
can do a good job of coordinating with the participants and keeping 
everyone well informed of event details. Entering a car for 
competition is a whooping $15 (the same as for entering a car in the 
people's choice categories).

In order to give the organizing team a chance to plan well, I 
encourage folks to register for concours competition early. We'll 
strive to accommodate everyone that is interested, but in the event 
we have more people interested than is feasible to manage, 
competitors will be handled on a first-registered basis.

I look forward to another fun competition at the DCS event. With Ken 
having his hands full with the show, I suspect he won't be in the 
competition, so that should leave the #2 standing up for grabs  ;-) 

     Knut



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:

>>
>> Hi all - I'm starting to get the Millennium Concours organized for 
>> the 2006 DeLorean Car Show in Chicago (Pheasant Run). Sign up for 

the 

>> competition as part of your registration at 
>> www.deloreancarshow.com .If you are interested in competing, 

please 

>> contact Marty Maier (wingd2(AT)aol.com) prior to signing up for 

the 

>> event. 
>> 
>> Information, judging manual, etc. on the competition is available 

at: 

>> www.millenniumconcours.com . 
>> 
>> We expect to update and further refine the judging manual in the 

next 

>> few months, but the 2005 version is a good start on your 

preparation 

>> efforts. There is a low-volume mailing list primarily for 

discussion 

>> among competitors available there as well. 
>> 
>> ALSO - I'm interested in added to the ranks of judges. If you are 
>> interested in participating please contact me off-list and I'll 

tell 

>> you how it works. Best candidates for this are people who have 

owned 

>> a car for a few years, do enough of their own work on the car to 
>> understand what they are looking at, and are interested in 

furthering 

>> this sort of competition. And are planning on attending DCS2006. 
>> Prior judges and assistants should contact me if you're interested 

in 

>> judging at this event (if you already have, no need to write 

again).

>> 
>> First time judges will always be used in an "assistant" role so 

don't 

>> be afraid to get involved. 
>> 
>> Dave Swingle - t-shirt, trophy, and judge coordinator, Millennium 
>> Concours
>>









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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 16:32:59 -0000
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DeLoreans and Tow dollys

Hi,

I am aware of the wheel straps that exist on the tow dollys. I did 
not mean that it was not physically possible to put the front end on 
a tow dolly, I felt that it may have been inadvisable. 

Here is where I did not fill in the missing information. I mistakenly 
thought that the user was had an automatic. You cannot pull the 
vehicle by the front wheels and have the vehicle be an RWD automatic, 
as you can burn out the transmission. The pump which circulates the 
transmission fluid would not be running, therefor, the transmission 
would heat up due to the fact that it is turning. That is unless you 
disconnect the wheels from the transmission. Which to me seems to be 
a whole lot of work, and well worth the 30-40 dollar upgrade of a 
trailer that takes the car fully off the ground. Which is why I made 
the comment to "back it on" to the tow dolly. (My definition of a tow 
dolly is a device that drags a car by 2 wheels off the ground) Either 
way if you leave all 4 wheels on the ground you still have the same 
issue with an automatic. (Car Tow hitch)

To avoid the burning of the transmission, you would have to put the 
rear wheels up onto the dolly, and let the front wheels spin freely 
on the road.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Arnie Brandon" <arnie_at_dml_p...> wrote:

>>
>> Could you please explain further the comment in your post 

below, "SINCE YOU

>> CANNOT HOOK THE FRONT WHEELS UP TO THE TOW DOLLY, AS THE CAR IS 

RWD, YOU

>> HAVE TO BACK IT ON"?  This appears to be some misinformation.   

Refer to my

>> post to this forum dated 11-21.  In that most, if not all, tow 

dolly's come

>> equipped with wheel straps, any DeLorean can be towed on any dolly, 

front OR

>> rear wheels.  This does not apply to an auto trans.   I use straps 

and

>> safety chains utilizing the tie down eyes that are on the frame, 

rear wheels

>> on the ground.  Awaiting your reply.
>> Arnie Brandon
>> Pacific Northwest DeLorean Club member
>> #6292 since Oct. 1982
>> 
>>  -----Original Message-----
>> From: 	dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com 

[mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]  On Behalf

>> Of seanhagan
>> Sent:	Monday, November 28, 2005 4:24 PM
>> To:	dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>> Subject:	[DML] Re: DeLoreans and Tow dollys
>> 
>> Having transported my Delorean once in the last couple of months, I
>> found that it fit nicely on the car carrier that you can completely
>> put the car off the ground, and on top of the trailer. It is a
>> little more pricy to rent than the tow dolly, but since you cannot
>> hook the front wheels up to the tow dolly, as the car is rwd, you
>> would have to back it on. I am not entirely sure how to keep the
>> wheels straight if you do.
>> 
>> My advice would be to either drive the car, or get completely on a
>> trailer.
>> 
>> There was a few posts about this a few weeks ago (Early october I
>> think)
>> 
>> [long quote trimmed by moderator]
>>









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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 17:07:32 -0000
From: "dmcerik" <dmcerik_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Reproduction Dash and Binnicle

Hi,
Does anyone know when DMCH will come out with their reproduction dash
and binnicle?  I really hope its soon because I'd like that to be my
winter project, along with replacing all the fir trees and putting in
new carpet.

Thanks,
Erik
4512







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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 17:04:54 -0000
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Removing Clock

I assume you're talking about the clock in the center console forward
of the shifter.  If your car is a 5 speed like mine, all you have to
do is take out the two screws at the rear of the plate around the
shifter.  Unscrew the shifter knob, lift up the plate and there you go.

Matt Smith


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "tuxr" <tuxdarby_at_dml_m...> wrote:

>>
>> Can the clock be removed without taking alot apart?  Does it pop out 
>> somehow?
>>










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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 17:46:09 -0000
From: "M. P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>
Subject: DeLorean Dealership sign font

A while back there were a few postings on the font used for 
the "DeLorean Motor Cars" part of the dealership sign.  Did anyone 
ever find out what font was used?

Thanks,
Matt Olans
VIN 16816








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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 14:34:41 EST
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Idle is lousy until it hits about 105 degrees in engine

In a message dated 11/28/2005 9:00:06 AM Eastern Standard Time,  
deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com writes:

the  lambda  probe is about 2 or 3 years old, 
the ECU is new, but made no  difference.>>
 
Duh. I meant the warm up regulator aka CPR.  The ECU is original.  Guess I 
got my vaguely medical sounding abbreviations crossed.  Also  replaced the 
thermotime switch, but not the cold start injector (I hate to say  it... another 
medical sounding term, CSI)  Okay, DeLorean docs... what is  it?  BTW, I said it 
starts reasonably well, which is correct, but you have  to start it maybe 2 
dozen times, and no amount of twiddling, or halfway holding  or ignoring the 
gas pedal will keep it going for a full minute.  Often only  runs about 5 
seconds smelling very gassy then dies. Tried my usual vendor again  today (where I 
got the CPR) and he's still too busy to talk to me.  :-(   I  need my daily 
driver drivable again, all the more since my son took my  other wheels back to 
college last weekend.  Help!
 
Wayne A. Ernst
vin 11174
Bridgeton, NJ  





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 16:42:57 -0000
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Oil leak, ideas and inspiration!!

Where would it leak onto? My thought would be the top of the portion 
of the frame that runs around the front of the oilpan? From there ti 
would drip from the middle. Would it cause the transmission bell 
housing to become covered in oil? I have an oil leak, and replaced 
the pan seal thinking it was the problem. How do I go about resealing 
the oil pressure sender? I assume teflon tape is not the answer  :-) 

Sean


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_o...> 
wrote:

>>
>> Before you go crazy looking for the oil leak check the oil pressure
>> sender on the left side of the motor. It is very common for them to
>> leak and make it seem like it is the pan gasket or whatever. The
>> sender can be resealed or replaced.
>> David Teitelbaum
>> vin 10757
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Chris Williams" <chris_at_dml_c...> wrote:
>
>>> >
>>> > Hi all,
>>
>>>> > >Right, I had noticed a small oil leak that I thought was coming 

from 

>>>> > >the crankshaft oil seal. However upon looking closer it looks 

like it 

>>>> > >is coming from above the crank and below the water pump. So does 

this 

>>>> > >mean that I am about to lose all my oil pressure one day when an 

oil 

>>>> > >way in the 'valley of death' burst's or is there anywhere else 

that 

>>>> > >can leak oil above the crankshaft that I have overlooked?
>>>> > >Or should i just be on the lookout for a new block   :-( 
>>>> > >I have had some great ideas from Martin, but would like to throw 

this 

>>> > open for everones ideas.
>>> > 
>>
>>>> > >Thanks All,
>>>> > >
>>>> > >Chris
>>>> > >Vin#4584
>>
>>> >
>
>>










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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 19:59:21 -0000
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Used Parts (was: What goes in a remanufactured car?)

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Qumefox <qumefox_at_dml_b...> wrote:


>> Well. James said in his email that they keep only 20-25 parts from the
>> original donor car. The stainless panels, frame, underbody, and all the
>> glass (about all i'd expect to be used from the original car, at least
>> as long as they aren't damaged) eat up the good majority of that part
>> count.. 


(SNIP)

In most cases, all the glass is replaced. Our most recent car, built
for Christian and Melanie Jarzab, even had the option of a heated or
non-heated rear window! The left front fender is certainly retained,
but everything else is fair game for replacement. Many times it is
more cost-effective to replace rather than repair.


>> Basicly what i'm wanting to know is if DMCH does actually keep the used
>> parts on hand. As I know more than a few D owners, myself included, are
>> on a limited maintaince budget, and in some situations,  a good used
>> part would much better fit our budget than a new one, and be just as
>> adequate at fixing whatever problem we may need the part for as well,
>> especially for things that cosmeticly don't matter, or weren't very
>> pretty to begin with. 


(SNIP)

We do keep the majority of the used parts, Stephen is loath to throw
away anything. Consumables are properly disposed of, but hard parts
are all kept. We have discussed that there may be a market for these -
I know that Haldeman and Koncelik sell a number of used parts - but we
have resisted to date because of liability and quality concerns. We
also are not sure if it is worth the expense in manpower to clean and
inspect these parts for suitability. Also, will the sales of used
parts offset the sales of new parts to the point that it isn't
worthwhile to do so?

I expect in light of this discussion to date, and the responses from
this point forward, will cause us to re-evaluate this scenario for 2006.

James Espey
DMC (Texas)
http://www.delorean.com







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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 21:43:18 -0000
From: "outatym2001" <markman660_at_dml_ncplus.net>
Subject: Re: Leaking Seals...or something else?

Glenn, and the group.
I just posted three pictures in the 'Photos' section titled 'Water 
Leaks'.
The pictures have words I added using Microsoft Paint.  Pretty easy 
once I figured out the correct size of text.
The rain water should have not been able to enter the body and find 
its way into the interior.  The pictures are of the interior.  After 
taking the pictures I sealed up the leaks with McKanica Seam Sealer 
Black in a aerosol can.  The can is more in the shape of a tube with 
a nipple on the end for ease of applying the polyurethane based goop.
Another leak I don't have a picture of is the bottom corner of the 
passenger door glass beside the side view mirror.  Water is allowed 
to puddle up there so I removed the TRIM PAD LOWER RH (110174) and 
the TRIM PAD 'A' POST RH (101876) and added more goop to the black 
goop already there holding the window in place.
I too had my DeLorean sit outside before the mechanic could get to 
it.  It was parked nose down and the foot well on both the driver 
and passenger side had puddles of water.  The mechanic even 
suggested to maybe drill a hole in the bottom to let the water drain 
out.  Hell No!

Mark R. Vanyo
VIN 002261



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "jedimasterglenn" 
<jedimasterglenn_at_dml_c...> wrote:
Hi,

I just discovered that water has somehow been getting into my D.  
The floors on both driver and passenger sides are soaked (I had it 
parked outside at my mechanic's for a couple weeks).  My immediate 
reaction is to blame the door seals.  They're old and are a bit worn 
in areas.  Before I rush out and buy a new seal kit, are there any 
other possible problem areas I should inspect?  The car hasn't been 
driven in the rain at all, so the water must be seaping in from the 
door seals or some other area that could let water run into the 
interior (I'm thinking the trunk maybe???).

Thanks,
Glenn
5391








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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 20:50:35 -0000
From: "Josh Porter" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DeLoreans and Tow dollys

You can put the DeLorean on the dolly facing forward. The uhaul in my 
area has the transport and the dolly as the same price, $60 for a 
day. I do prefer the transport because you do not put miles on the 
tires and it looks better going down the road.

Josh


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Arnie Brandon" <arnie_at_dml_p...> wrote:

>>
>> Could you please explain further the comment in your post 

below, "SINCE YOU

>> CANNOT HOOK THE FRONT WHEELS UP TO THE TOW DOLLY, AS THE CAR IS 

RWD, YOU

>> HAVE TO BACK IT ON"?  This appears to be some misinformation.   

Refer to my

>> post to this forum dated 11-21.  In that most, if not all, tow 

dolly's come

>> equipped with wheel straps, any DeLorean can be towed on any dolly, 

front OR

>> rear wheels.  This does not apply to an auto trans.   I use straps 

and

>> safety chains utilizing the tie down eyes that are on the frame, 

rear wheels

>> on the ground.  Awaiting your reply.
>> Arnie Brandon
>> Pacific Northwest DeLorean Club member
>> #6292 since Oct. 1982
>> 
>>  -----Original Message-----
>> From: 	dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com 

[mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]  On Behalf

>> Of seanhagan
>> Sent:	Monday, November 28, 2005 4:24 PM
>> To:	dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>> Subject:	[DML] Re: DeLoreans and Tow dollys
>> 
>> Having transported my Delorean once in the last couple of months, I
>> found that it fit nicely on the car carrier that you can completely
>> put the car off the ground, and on top of the trailer. It is a
>> little more pricy to rent than the tow dolly, but since you cannot
>> hook the front wheels up to the tow dolly, as the car is rwd, you
>> would have to back it on. I am not entirely sure how to keep the
>> wheels straight if you do.
>> 
>> My advice would be to either drive the car, or get completely on a
>> trailer.
>> 
>> There was a few posts about this a few weeks ago (Early october I
>> think)
>> 
>> [long quote trimmed by moderator]
>>










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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 22:40:37 -0000
From: "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: My new suspension upgrade done!!!!

Hi all I promised Ed Uding I would post my suspension upgrade when done..I 
have put pics of it under the photo section under suspension upgrade..Okay..I 
will explain what all I have.. I have the Eibach springs from Houston..and new 
fully adjustable power shocks from Ed in the Netherlands.. also from Ed are 
all new urethane bushings for the upper and lower rear link arms. and front 
sway bar bushings in urethane..The shocks also come with urethane 
bushings.. The shocks are highly adjustable from very soft to very hard..I have 
them set about middle so far.. I have played around with the settings alittle bit 
but will do so more when I drive it again..As I have it set right now the car 
drives and handles incredibly well.. I thought it handled good before but this 
takes it to a whole new level..The ride is a little bouncy at the moment but that 
is due to the shock settings where they are..I have taken some hard corners 
and the car still sticks to the road like glue but has even less body roll now 
than it did before..It also sits much lower than I thought with the Eibach 
springs but I like it..I just have to be careful over speed bumps now..the link 
arm bushings were extremely easy to put in.. after I had the old ones pressed 
out I powdercoated my link arms with some tex black powder I had and they 
came out great...then u just push the new bushings in with a rubber 
hammer..they are two piece and the metal shaft gets tapped in after.. very 
easy. and they should last forever and are much tighter tolerances than the 
rubber ones.. On the front I just used por15 on the arms since i didnt feel like 
stripping and powdercoating them.. and the sway arm bushings just slip in 
after u unbolt the fastner.. all in all the ride is darn good.. not like riding a brick 
anymore..and I still have like 15 or so settings to play around with on each 
shock.. I would recomend them to anyone looking to upgrade.. And price wise 
they are very comparable to the setup from Houston..Dave..vin... 15275

ps.. email me if u all have any questions...

pps... I spent like three days scraping epoxy out of the frame behind the arms 
in the front and rear.. it was a mess.. Then I just coated the frame with por15 
its now rock hard over the rust and other spots..hopefully that will last a 
longtime .. and I dont even drive my car in the rain.. If anyone gets a chance 
they should check in those areas....







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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 23:35:00 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Jumping Out of 5th Gear

Hi Shain


>>Some transmissions have indents on
>>the input or output shaft that allow the nut to be bent over, to allow it to
>>not come off.  Although this only lasts for so long.  
>>

Our Renault box has this, but after 2300 miles?! I don't think it was 
done at the factory. It's a known problem in the Renault and Lotus camps


>>I've found that proper
>>torque settings is the best way,  and I'm not sure loctite is the best way
>>to go about it.  
>>

Oh it got the full tratment. New nut, torqued up properly, bent over the 
flange bit, and loctite to make triply sure.This was -my- car.

I don't do our customers gearboxes, they go off to a local specialist 
who's very good, and of course guarantees his work...

Martin






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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 16:18:59 -0600
From: Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>
Subject: Optima Battery...you want fries with that?

I went to the local Autozone to get an Optima Yellow battery, which I 
grabbed off the shelf and took to the counter to purchase.

  "What vehicle is this for, sir?"
  Gus tilted his head quizzically.  "Does it matter?"
  "It does if you want the warranty," was the matter-of-fact reply.
  Wryly, Gus answered "A 1981 Delorean."
  The clerk approached his terminal and quickly punched the keys to pull 
up the "D" list of manufacturers.  Datsun, Daihatsu, Dodge...hmmm.  He 
repeated this process, foolishly hoping for a different list the second 
time.  "Who makes that?" he asked, seeming somewhat annoyed.
  "Ummm...De Lor E an" Gus repeated, wondering how this guy managed to 
avoid both watching TV and going to the theater for the entire 80's 
decade.
  The clerk pondered his computerized predicament for a moment.  "Is 
there...some OTHER car that this battery could be for?!??"


Gus Schlachter
VIN #4695
Austin, Texas


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 23:38:05 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Jumping Out of 5th Gear

This is going back 4 years and 15,000 miles, and it's one of the 
slickest D boxes to this day.

Given the metal fragments that are likely to hav ebeen generated are 
bits of the casing, wouldn't a magnet be kind of pointless?!

The gear oil was changed out twice before doing any real miles.

That box is coming out with the engine when the turbo lump goes in 
there. I have a strengthened Renault 30 box with 3.8 final drive ready 
to go in.

Martin

David Teitelbaum wrote:


>>This looks all very familiar having just been there. Of course your's
>>is worse than mine, my cover didn't get torn up. It is nice that you
>>can do this repair without having to remove the transmission! Once you
>>torque the nut by putting the transmission into 2 gears at the same
>>time and then hammer it over on the flat it should not move. I would
>>recomend you use a magnetic drain plug so you can catch all the metal
>>that may still be in the case.
>>David Teitelbaum
>>vin 10757
>>
>>
>>  
>>







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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2005 03:56:57 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Oil leak, ideas and inspiration!!

Another possability is the cover behind one of the idler pulleys. It
is sealed with an "O" ring and maybe it is out-of-place or just
shrunk. Fairly easy to do, just make sure you put all the hardware
back exactly right or the bracket will be misaligned. If the leak is
actually around the water pump it is possable it is the casting on the
top of the motor or the timing cover.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Chris Williams" <chris_at_dml_c...> wrote:

>>
>> Ah yes, sorry should have mentioned that I had checked that one out 
>> already. There is oil definatly 
>> leaking from somewhere around/below water pump. I shoved some 
>> absorbent paper down behind the water pump and it did come up with 
>> fresh oil on it, so really if my thinking is correct it can be a; 
>> oil leak from block (but if this were the case would it not be a 
>> 








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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 22:28:33 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Oil leak, ideas and inspiration!!

 
 
In a message dated 11/29/2005 9:25:57 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
chris_at_dml_cwilliams68.fsnet.co.uk writes:

Ah yes,  sorry should have mentioned that I had checked that one out 
already. There  is oil definatly 
leaking from somewhere around/below water pump. I shoved  some 
absorbent paper down behind the water pump and it did come up with  
fresh oil on it, so really if my thinking is correct it can be a; 
oil  leak from block (but if this were the case would it not be a 
huge leak due  to oil pressure??) b; timing chain cover near the top. 
c; rear main  throwing it everywhere? Any one got any thoughts, or 
should I bite the  bullet and start stripping things, or leave it 
until it gets really  bad.
thanks
Chris
Vin#4584




>>>>>>

Chris, 
 
Have you ever been in the valley of death?  Perhaps some leaking  antifreeze 
rotted a hole into somewhere oil runs and you are seeping a little  bit??
 
Andy
 
Fargo, ND  
1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2005 04:53:52 -0000
From: "Manny Sajiun" <mannyone_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Oil leak, ideas and inspiration!!

Check the oil pressure sensor for the light, it's underneath the 
engine towards the rear, the seal tends to leak, easy to replace.

Manny Sajiun


>> 
>> 
>> 
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Chris Williams" <chris_at_dml_c...> wrote:
>
>>> >
>>> > Hi all,
>>
>>>> > >Right, I had noticed a small oil leak that I thought was coming 

from 

>>>> > >the crankshaft oil seal. However upon looking closer it looks 

like it 

>>>> > >is coming from above the crank and below the water pump. So does 

this 

>>>> > >mean that I am about to lose all my oil pressure one day when an 

oil 

>>>> > >way in the 'valley of death' burst's or is there anywhere else 

that 

>>>> > >can leak oil above the crankshaft that I have overlooked?
>>>> > >Or should i just be on the lookout for a new block   :-( 
>>>> > >I have had some great ideas from Martin, but would like to throw 

this 

>>> > open for everones ideas.
>>> > 
>>
>>>> > >Thanks All,
>>>> > >
>>>> > >Chris
>>>> > >Vin#4584
>>
>>> >
>
>>











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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 20:41:55 -0800
From: Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Power door locks

The D is actually very similar. It doesn't matter if you lock/unlock the 
door from the inside or outside, either way the other door will do the 
same. So from the drivers side using the key, when you unlock the door, the 
passenger side should unlock as well.

Before you start troubleshooting, disable the electronic locks by 
disconnecting the big white connector on the lock module in the relay 
compartment. Verify that each door properly locks and unlocks using both 
the inside switch and key (remember, the doors should be closed when 
locked). If they don't do this, you're not going to get anywhere with the 
electronics. Use this page to help align the locks if they aren't working 
properly:
http://www.dmcnews.com/bulletins/ST-10-8.81.html

Fixing the electronics can be a bit more tricky. If you can solder 
electrical components, start of by replacing the two relays in the lock 
module (Toby sells an upgraded version). If they haven't failed, they will 
someday and possibly lock you in the D! So you might as well replace them. 
Now if one or both of the doors aren't functioning properly, then you 
probably have to deal with the solenoids.

You can replace them with other solenoids at a great expense or rebuild 
them. I did this to one of mine using the article in the tech section. It 
wasn't fun, but it worked. Now I would just recommend shelling out the $100 
and buy Toby's actuator upgrade. Installing the actuators is cheaper then 
replacement solenoids and quicker then rebuilding them.

I hope this helps. If you still have issues with the system, let us know 
exactly what the problem is.

Chris
VIN 4099

At 04:04 PM 11/29/2005 +0000, you wrote:

>>Hello all.
>>   I'm about to dive in and start diagnosing the inoperative power
>>locks in my D.  What I need to know is, how are they supposed to work?
>>For example, when can I expect the passenger's door to lock and unlock?
>>In my Toyota (an 85 Celica) the driver's door is unlocked using the
>>key, then a second twist to the unlock position unlocks the
>>passenger's side too.  I know the D is different, but I don't know
>>what I should expect.
>>
>>Matt Smith






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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2005 09:13:17 +0000
From: DmcGman_at_dml_comcast.net
Subject: Holiday Parade in NJ

I am now planning to attend a Holiday Parade here in Ship Bottom NJ, on Long Beach Island, this Saturday December 3rd.  It is televised locally and we usually have a good turnout of Deloreans for this event.  A few people have told me they would like to attend again so I will organize a meeting time and place (same as alst year) for those interested.  If interested email me privately ASAP so I know for sure who is coming and how many to expect.

Gary 
VIN 3360

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2005 11:49:06 +0000 (GMT)
From: DANIEL SHANE <daniel.shane_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Dealership sign font

It's called optima.


--- "M. P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com> wrote:


>> A while back there were a few postings on the font
>> used for 
>> the "DeLorean Motor Cars" part of the dealership
>> sign.  Did anyone 
>> ever find out what font was used?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Matt Olans
>> VIN 16816





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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2005 06:10:32 -0000
From: "Dan" <djdanwilson_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Power door locks

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_j...> wrote:

>>
>> Hello all.
>>   I'm about to dive in and start diagnosing the inoperative power
>> locks in my D...but I don't know
>> what I should expect.


I expect you're going to find out why they were most likely
disconnected. You do know that the original factory door lock
controller modules made for the DeLorean all had a curse placed on
them by an evil entity named Lucas, and have been known to lock and
trap poor unsuspecting souls inside the car, sealing their fate and
burning up their door lock solenoids, right?

My guess is the door locks naturally malfunctioned, like they all seem
to sooner or later, and someone simply disconnected them.

Dan W.
16192







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