Sent: Friday, December 02, 2005 6:32 PM
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3009

There are 5 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Re: Insurance, stated value, daily drivers
From: "Tom Tait" <>

2. Re: Driver door latch issue
From: "Marv Hein" <>

3. Re: Relays
From: "Mike Bosworth" <>

4. Trip to Nashville
From: "lingolor" <>

5. Re: Jumping Out of 5th Gear
From: "John Macias" <>

Message: 1
Date: Thu, 1 Dec 2005 19:29:32 -0800
From: "Tom Tait" <>
Subject: RE: Re: Insurance, stated value, daily drivers


I have not received my final paperwork yet, but I belive all of the following to be true:  I just signed up with aon this week.  You must have another car to use on a daily basis, but if you do they don't seem to care how many miles you put on the D.

Fill out the online application, the website will tell you exactly what the premium will be based on your assumed value.  In a day or so they will either agree with your appraisal or let you know what they think, charge your credit card and mail you the paperwork.

I'm paying the minimum premium they charge, $100 a year, with no restrictions as to how I use it, so long as it is not my only car.


-----Original Message-----
From: [] On Behalf Of Josh Porter
Sent: Thursday, December 01, 2005 3:07 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Insurance, stated value, daily drivers

State Farm will not insure my car, I called and they did have it in their computer or know what it is, I have the same problem with my current insurance company Farm Buerau, or however you spell it. I am hoping that I can afford Hagerty:)


 --- In, "Dan" <djdanwilson_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> --- In, "John Macias" <jdm5_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> >
> > ...In my case, State Farm just asked me the value of the vehicle, 
> > took some pictures, then sent my application to underwriting. It 
> > took a few days, but I got
> > for the value I requested.

[very long quote trimmed by moderator]


Message: 2
Date: Fri, 02 Dec 2005 03:32:53 -0000
From: "Marv Hein" <>
Subject: Re: Driver door latch issue

I had very similar problems with my passenger side when the outside handle was used to open the door.  

The rear latch would lock but the front was left slightly out of position.  Lithium grease in the cable sleeves (or whatever they are
called) and on everything else that moves was all it took. (Thanks to John Hervey and Robert Rooney for the proper diagnosis and to Robert for actually fixing it.)


--- In, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_o...>
> This probably will require adjustment of the anchor pins and maybe 
> also the internal locks. It is a little complicated especially if
> are doing it for the first time. The Workshop Manual has the
> for the internal adjustments. The "trick" on the anchor pins is to 
> have the front AND rear latches both click at the same time. Both
> have to click TWICE and be in the 2nd locking position for the door
> be fully closed. When the door is correctly adjusted you should not
> able to lock it unless both locks are in the 2nd locking position.
> Forcing things knocks the adjustments out-of-whack. You may also
> new door seals. If the ones on the car are shot replace them before 
> adjusting the anchor pins.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> --- In, "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> >
> > See if the problem goes away if you pull up on the inner door 
> > handle, then try to latch the door? If so, I can tell you what 
> > helped mi


Message: 3
Date: Fri, 02 Dec 2005 08:59:44 -0000
From: "Mike Bosworth" <>
Subject: Re: Relays


The main 'bulk' of the SPDT relays are

Bosch Product # 0 332 209 150 (this number superceded # 0 332 204 150 as shown on a few of the 'cross reference' sheets)

as shown on here:-

Resistive Load - N/O:  40 A - 200,000 cycles Resistive Load - N/C:  20 A - 250,000 cycles Motor Load - N/O:  25 A (50 A In-rush) - 100,000 cycles Motor Load - N/C:  n/a Lamp Load - N/O:  30 A - 100,000 cycles 

Suitable for the Starter relay , ac panel lights, cooling fan relay, 
a/c 4th speed, a/c 3rd speed, High Beam, Low Beam   (7no in total)
Lamp Load - N/C:  10 A - 100,000 cycles 


Yorkshire UK


--- In, "Charles Major" <charlesmajor_at_dml_h...>
> Should they be replaced just because they are old?
> Should they be 30amp or 40amp? Or does it matter?
> I need to know so I can put my car back together.
> Regards,
> Charles


Message: 4
Date: Fri, 02 Dec 2005 15:15:31 -0000
From: "lingolor" <>
Subject: Trip to Nashville

Hey group.
My son and I will be taking the D on it's first road trip from Memphis to Nashville this Saturday morning to visit family for the weekend (not a very long trip). If anyone would like to meet along the way in Jackson, TN or in Nashville either on Saturday or Sunday email me at or cal my cell and leave a message 901-486- 6972.  I won't have much time to mingle, but just a meeting and compareing notes would be cool.  Heck, it be nice to know there's possible help close by if the car doesn't hold up for the trip.
By the way, the car has been running very well since the engine rebuild I did 2 months ago.  With the exception of the erratic or hung idle problems.

Any way, hope to see some D's on the road.

Lingo #2034


Message: 5
Date: Fri, 02 Dec 2005 15:52:52 -0000
From: "John Macias" <>
Subject: Re: Jumping Out of 5th Gear

Does anyone have more information on the redline synthetic transmission fluid? Which is preferable: The MTL or MT 90? Thanks


--- In, Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> This is going back 4 years and 15,000 miles, and it's one of the 
> slickest D boxes to this day.
> Given the metal fragments that are likely to hav ebeen generated
> bits of the casing, wouldn't a magnet be kind of pointless?!
> The gear oil was changed out twice before doing any real miles.
> That box is coming out with the engine when the turbo lump goes in 
> there. I have a strengthened Renault 30 box with 3.8 final drive
> to go in.
> Martin
> David Teitelbaum wrote:

[Long quote trimmed by moderator]


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