From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, December 03, 2005 3:59 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3010

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Jumping Out of 5th Gear
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

2. Gear lube was Re: Jumping
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

3. Re: Re: Optima Battery...you want fries with that?
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

4. RE: Re: Insurance, stated value, daily drivers (Agreed=Good, Stated=Bad)
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. "Cooling Fan Failure" Light
From: "jedimasterglenn" <jedimasterglenn_at_dml_comcast.net>

6. another DeLorean movie sighting
From: Jason Ferrara <jason_at_dml_discordia.org>

7. Re: "Cooling Fan Failure" Light
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

8. DeLorean Dents
From: "carpenter12740" <mattdcarpenter_at_dml_msn.com>

9. Re: Re: Relays
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>

10. Re: "Cooling Fan Failure" Light
From: "Todd Nelson" <todd1561_at_dml_gmail.com>

11. Re: "Cooling Fan Failure" Light
From: Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>

12. Re: Fuse #12 Blues
From: "dmc_5180" <dmc_5180_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Re: Relays
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

14. Turbocharger availability
From: "patmolamphy" <patmolamphy_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. RE: "Cooling Fan Failure" Light
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

16. Re: DeLorean Dents
From: "Dan" <djdanwilson_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. Re: Optima Battery...you want fries with that?
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

18. Re: Optima Battery...you want fries with that?
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

19. Extended Convex Mirrors - available now
From: "Tom Niemczewski" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>

20. RE: Re: DeLorean Dents
From: "Matt CARPENTER" <mattdcarpenter_at_dml_msn.com>

21. Re: Turbocharger availability
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

22. Re: Re: Relays
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>

23. Re: Optima Battery...you want fries with that?
From: "Randal" <azman3us_at_dml_yahoo.com>

24. Volo Car museum
From: Oliver Holler <thehauntfactory_at_dml_att.net>

25. Re: Optima Battery...you want fries with that?
From: "Dan" <djdanwilson_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 02 Dec 2005 19:03:52 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: Jumping Out of 5th Gear

John - The Redline MTL is great for transmissions, but NOT for the differential portion of the transaxle which exists in the DeLorean application.  The MTL just doesn't have the shear stability for diff use.  I would personally recommend using a good synthetic gear oil that meets GL-5 specifications.  I believe the MT-90 nearly fits that criteria, as do several other products from Castrol and Amsoil.  
According to the Redline website, the MTL (which is rated to GL-4) should not be used where GL-5 is specified, but MT-90 comes closer, even though it is also rated to GL-4.  They say that 75W90NS is the Redline product to use for our GL-5 application.  I use a Castrol synthetic gear oil in Winged1.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com   

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Macias" <jdm5_at_dml_h...> wrote:
>
> Does anyone have more information on the redline synthetic 
> transmission fluid? Which is preferable: The MTL or MT 90? Thanks
> 
> John
> #7009










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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 02 Dec 2005 16:40:00 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Gear lube was Re: Jumping

I contacted RedLine - neither. You should use the 75W90NS product. 
Since this is a transaxle, it needs to have the correct hypoid-spec lube for the differential. In Redline's term, NS denotes "Not for Non Slip". Yeah -a double negative but it's what it means. Their comment was that if you put their normal 75W90 stuff in there, it is too slick for the syncros to work properly. 

I've also had very good luck with the Valvoline Full Synthetic 75W90 gear lube. It's not any cheaper than Red Line, but it's probably easier to find. You need almost a whole gallon for manual trans, so you're going to be spending about $40 on a gear lube change. 

Dave Swingle


In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Macias" <jdm5_at_dml_h...> wrote:
>
> Does anyone have more information on the redline synthetic 
> transmission fluid? Which is preferable: The MTL or MT 90? Thanks
> 
> John
> #7009

>








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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 2 Dec 2005 14:43:24 -0800
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Optima Battery...you want fries with that?

On 11/30/05, gbsdelorean <gbsdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Just be glad he did not ask what color the car was...

Applebees asked me. They have this "drive up" service for to go orders where you call them in advance and they'll bring your order out to the car. So I called them up and after I placed my order I was asked:

Employee: "What kind of car will you be driving?"
Me: "DeLorean."
Employee: "And what color is it?"
Me: "Uhm, they're all silver."
Employee: "Oh, I'm sorry, I don't know much about cars."

I actually felt a little bad about it. I think I sounded like a jerk, but didn't mean to. Of course, I also had forgotten that some people do paint theirs.

--
- Ryan
http://www.memfrag.com - Store your bookmarks. On every computer.


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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 2 Dec 2005 10:34:01 -0800 (PST)
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Insurance, stated value, daily drivers (Agreed=Good, Stated=Bad)

You need to be cafeful about the type of coverage you sign up for.  There are some subtle differences between "Agreed Value" and "Stated Value" that can bite you.


This site has a good explanation of the differences, but "Agreed Value" is the one to have and not "Stated Value".

http://www.classic-british-cars.com/classic-car-insurance.html

Steve

VIN 2650 ("Project Delorean")
www.projectdelorean.com


		
__________________________________
Start your day with Yahoo! - Make it your home page! 
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs




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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 03 Dec 2005 00:18:54 -0000
From: "jedimasterglenn" <jedimasterglenn_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: "Cooling Fan Failure" Light

Well, today was the big day.  I bought my D 3 months ago and finally 
got it out of the shop and onto the road for my first drive!  And the 
fun began immediately...

Whenever I hear the cooling fan come on, the "Cooling Fan Failure" 
warning light on the control console lights.  When the fan goes off, 
it goes off.  The temp seems fine when the fan is off or on.  Is this 
a common quirk or should I investigate the fans?  My voltage indicator 
is running really low too.  I've been advised by my mechanic that I 
may need a new altenator.  Could a failing altenator and the warning 
light be related?  

Lastly, if I do end up purchasing a new altenator, should I go with a 
higher amp model (SpecialTAuto.com has pretty beefy looking ones) or 
should I saty with the stock replacement?

Thanks,
Glenn
5391...on the road!!  







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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 2 Dec 2005 12:00:57 -0500
From: Jason Ferrara <jason_at_dml_discordia.org>
Subject: another DeLorean movie sighting

I just saw the trailer for the Japanese movie Blister, and its got a  
DeLorean in it.

I have the movie on DVD (which is where I got the trailer), but I  
haven't watched it yet. The car shows up a few times in the trailer,  
so I'm guessing it has a somewhat significant role in the movie.

- Jason




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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 03 Dec 2005 02:35:48 -0000
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: "Cooling Fan Failure" Light

hi

i could be wrong but i think some people have rigged theirs so that 
the light comes on when the fans are on.

they then cover the failure bit behing the instrument panel so it 
lights 'cooling fans'.
so you know when they are running.
maybe it could be this?. not sure with mine as i have yet to run her 
more that 30 secs (engine problems!!)

regards

steve





--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "jedimasterglenn" 
<jedimasterglenn_at_dml_c...> wrote:
>
> Well, today was the big day.  I bought my D 3 months ago and 
finally 
> got it out of the shop and onto the road for my first drive!  And 
the 
> fun began immediately...
> 
> Whenever I hear the cooling fan come on, the "Cooling Fan Failure" 
> warning light on the control console lights.  When the fan goes 
off, 
> it goes off.  The temp seems fine when the fan is off or on.  Is 
this 
> a common quirk or should I investigate the fans?  My voltage 
indicator 
> is running really low too.  I've been advised by my mechanic that 
I 
> may need a new altenator.  Could a failing altenator and the 
warning 
> light be related?  
> 
> Lastly, if I do end up purchasing a new altenator, should I go 
with a 
> higher amp model (SpecialTAuto.com has pretty beefy looking ones) 
or 
> should I saty with the stock replacement?
> 
> Thanks,
> Glenn
> 5391...on the road!!
>









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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 03 Dec 2005 03:11:55 -0000
From: "carpenter12740" <mattdcarpenter_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: DeLorean Dents

Hello - Can anyone recommend a stainless steel repair shop in the 
western states?  I'm having trouble finding a source in AZ.  I have 
two dents on the bonnet I need to correct.  
Thanks!  Matt Carpenter...5586







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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 2 Dec 2005 21:50:30 -0600
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Relays

Are those "sealed" relays?

Someone once mentioned that sealed relays would be the best to fix an oem
door lock module. Does anyone have a part number for those sealed relays, or
any vendor offer those?


On 12/2/05, Mike Bosworth <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> Hi
>
> The main 'bulk' of the SPDT relays are
>
> Bosch Product # 0 332 209 150 (this number superceded # 0 332 204 150
> as shown on a few of the 'cross reference' sheets)
>
> as shown on here:-
>
>
> http://www.chiefent.com/products/product_details.asp?id=4
>
>
>
>
> Resistive Load - N/O:  40 A - 200,000 cycles
> Resistive Load - N/C:  20 A - 250,000 cycles
> Motor Load - N/O:  25 A (50 A In-rush) - 100,000 cycles
> Motor Load - N/C:  n/a
> Lamp Load - N/O:  30 A - 100,000 cycles
>
> Suitable for the Starter relay , ac panel lights, cooling fan relay,
> a/c 4th speed, a/c 3rd speed, High Beam, Low Beam   (7no in total)
> Lamp Load - N/C:  10 A - 100,000 cycles
>
> Regards
>
> Mike
> #2001
> Yorkshire UK

[long quote trimmed by moderator]




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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 2 Dec 2005 23:01:39 -0500
From: "Todd Nelson" <todd1561_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: "Cooling Fan Failure" Light

Glenn,

Do you have an aftermarket fan fail module, like John Hervey's?  If so then
the fan fail light operation is normal.  His is designed to do this to make
you aware that the cooling fans are running.  If you have the stock setup,
or a FanZilla, then the light indicates that a fan has failed for some
reason.  The best thing to do is just get under the car when the fans should
be running and make sure they're both turning and blowing towards the back
of the car.

Since you have vin 5391, you should have the later model Motorola
alternator, which should be adequate (when it was new).  But after a quarter
century, corrosion, and weakened wires it is probably not functioning to
what it used to.  I would first start by testing the output voltage of the
alternator using a digital meter, preferably after it has warmed up a bit.
Do this by placing the positive lead of the DMM to the positive lead on the
alternator (one with all the big red wires) and the negative test lead to a
good ground.  You should read around 13-14 volts.  I replaced my Ducieller
alternator with one of John Hervey's 110 Amp models, so far it has been
great.  I would recommend it even if you determine your current one is still
functioning OK, don't get another stock one.  It is also a strong
possibility that your battery is low.  Test the voltage at the battery with
the car off, should be ~12 Volts.  You should also go over all of the major
grounding points to clean them up, the more corroded they are the higher the
resistance will be and the less effective your charging system will become.
Positive connections should be cleaned as well.

Good Luck,
Todd Nelson
1561, Vermont
http://www.rit.edu/~tan5732


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "jedimasterglenn" <jedimasterglenn_at_dml_comcast.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, December 02, 2005 7:18 PM
Subject: [DML] "Cooling Fan Failure" Light


> Well, today was the big day.  I bought my D 3 months ago and finally
> got it out of the shop and onto the road for my first drive!  And the
> fun began immediately...
>
> Whenever I hear the cooling fan come on, the "Cooling Fan Failure"
> warning light on the control console lights.  When the fan goes off,
> it goes off.  The temp seems fine when the fan is off or on.  Is this
> a common quirk or should I investigate the fans?  My voltage indicator
> is running really low too.  I've been advised by my mechanic that I
> may need a new altenator.  Could a failing altenator and the warning
> light be related?
>
> Lastly, if I do end up purchasing a new altenator, should I go with a
> higher amp model (SpecialTAuto.com has pretty beefy looking ones) or
> should I saty with the stock replacement?
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn
> 5391...on the road!!




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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 02 Dec 2005 21:01:42 -0800
From: Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: "Cooling Fan Failure" Light

Glenn,
Check your relay compartment in the bottom left corner. If there is a 
jumper in the last relay socket, then it's probably been modified to light 
the indicator with the fans. If you have a blue module, then you probably 
have a true fan failure or bad module. As Todd said, confirm both fans are 
indeed working. And regardless if they are, replace the blue module. Each 
vendor has their own solution for replacement, so shop around.

Before replacing the alternator, make sure your positive and ground points 
are good. A new alternator won't fix a bad ground! Grounds to check are 
above the relay compartment behind the back panel, frame grounding point 
behind the front left wheel and the negative battery cable where it 
connects to the frame. Also, make sure the cluster of heavy gauge wires 
that go to the alternator are clean at the alternator post. If all those 
are good and tight, then it might be time for a new alternator.

If you don't plan to add a major stereo system or other major accessories, 
then John's D110 alternator will be more then enough for the job. You can 
also get your current Motorola rebuilt locally, but who knows how long it 
will last.

Chris
VIN 4099

At 12:18 AM 12/3/2005 +0000, you wrote:
>Whenever I hear the cooling fan come on, the "Cooling Fan Failure"
>warning light on the control console lights.  When the fan goes off,
>it goes off.  The temp seems fine when the fan is off or on.  Is this
>a common quirk or should I investigate the fans?  My voltage indicator
>is running really low too.  I've been advised by my mechanic that I
>may need a new altenator.  Could a failing altenator and the warning
>light be related?
>
>Lastly, if I do end up purchasing a new altenator, should I go with a
>higher amp model (SpecialTAuto.com has pretty beefy looking ones) or
>should I saty with the stock replacement?
>
>Thanks,
>Glenn
>5391...on the road!!





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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 03 Dec 2005 08:01:36 -0000
From: "dmc_5180" <dmc_5180_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Fuse #12 Blues

Tom,

 The drivers door has 2 switches, one is for the ignition buzzer, are you sure you didn't 
pull the wires on that one instead of the door ajar switch?

Does the red dash light stay on with the the door lights? Also I have never experienced a 
Diode failier that allowed current to backflow. Usualy they just fail like a blown fuse  and 
cause an open circuit. Most of the time when then the door lights don't go out is because 
of poor switch contact with the striker plate on the door.  That is why the switches usually 
have a rubber tip slipped over the end of the switch. sometimes you need to pull it out a 
little. Effectively lengthening the switch stem. This will let the door contact it sooner when 
in the closed position. Hopefully it is enough to open the switch contacts.

Dennis


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_B...> wrote:
>
> Most or all of my interior bulbs are burnt out I think (low on my list as
> I'm not driving the car much yet), but the red and yellow lights in the
> doors work.  Up until a few days ago they worked fine, went off with the
> door switch normally.  Then they stayed on one night,  I charged the battery
> back up and pulled fuse #12 and they went out, fuse back in and they came on
> - no surprise there.  Then I pulled both wires off the back of both door
> switches until I had time to replace or repair the faulty door switch - and
> the lights stayed on.
> 
> I looked at the wiring diagram and realized that I must have a faulty light
> delay module, so I pulled it out.  With that module (the white one) out, and
> both door switches unplugged, the lights were still on.
> 
> I assume I have a bad diode or two, but where else do I look for a short to
> ground, which I assume is the problem.
> 
> Fuse #12 sits lonely in the ashtray tonight,  waiting for its chance to be
> reinstalled, please help.
> 
> Tom
> 10902
>








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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 03 Dec 2005 06:16:08 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: Relays

Kevin - I think that the thread started with the typical "Bosch-
style" 5-pin relays that are used for various purposes in the relay 
compartment.  However, since you asked, we have both the open-frame 
and sealed versions of the PCB relays used in the door lock module.  
Ours are rated for 40 amps (tested to 100,000 cycles at maximum 
load), which is far greater than the stock relays.  The sealed relay 
is part number 101421-RS, and the open-frame relay is 101420-RO.  
All you need is a good soldering iron and a steady hand.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_g...> wrote:
>
> Are those "sealed" relays?
> Someone once mentioned that sealed relays would be the best to fix 
an oem door lock module. Does anyone have a part number for those 
sealed relays, or any vendor offer those?








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Sat, 03 Dec 2005 05:17:44 -0000
From: "patmolamphy" <patmolamphy_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Turbocharger availability

Is anyone know of availbale turbo package.  There used to be a company 
that advertised in the DMC magazine, but trying to find out the best 
source for a turbocharger unit.
Pat
5252







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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 2 Dec 2005 22:40:35 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: "Cooling Fan Failure" Light

Glenn, If you have the SpecialTauto.com Fan Fix the light is supposed to
come on to let you know that voltage is going to the fans. 
Sounds like it is.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com
If you have any questions about it or any other product on the car your
welcome to call.
Toll free 888-278-1629.



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
jedimasterglenn
Sent: Friday, December 02, 2005 6:19 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] "Cooling Fan Failure" Light

> Well, today was the big day.  I bought my D 3 months ago
> and finally got it out of the shop and onto the road for
> my first drive!  And the fun began immediately...
>
> Whenever I hear the cooling fan come on, the "Cooling Fan
> Failure" warning light on the control console lights.  When
> the fan goes off, it goes off.  The temp seems fine when the
> fan is off or on.  Is this a common quirk or should I
> investigate the fans?  My voltage indicator is running really
> low too.  I've been advised by my mechanic that I may need a
> new altenator.  Could a failing altenator and the warning
> light be related?  
>
> Lastly, if I do end up purchasing a new altenator, should I go
> with a higher amp model (SpecialTAuto.com has pretty beefy
> looking ones) or should I saty with the stock replacement?
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn
> 5391...on the road!!





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Message: 16
Date: Sat, 03 Dec 2005 08:53:37 -0000
From: "Dan" <djdanwilson_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Dents

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "carpenter12740" <mattdcarpenter_at_dml_m...>
wrote:
>
> I have 
> two dents on the bonnet I need to correct.  

Did you call Kenneth Vance, the person Ben Ferguson recommended in
Maricopa?

I don't know if dents in the hood can be repaired because you can't
"pick & file" the metal due to the fiberglass piece underneath that
the stainless steel is attached to. I think you would have to cut out
a section of fiberglass below the dent so it can be raised then filed
down 'till even, then patch the fiberglass section that was cut out.
I'm guessing a new hood would be cheaper?

Dan W.
VIN 16192
AZ-D







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Message: 17
Date: Sat, 03 Dec 2005 02:34:49 -0600
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Optima Battery...you want fries with that?

The most famous tutorial for the flux is:
http://rookscastle.com/tutorials/time4.html
However, it is impractical because it lists parts you simply can not find 
anywhere.

The flux is one of the more complex replicas to build because the parts 
needed just can't be found anymore. You can recreate these parts if you have 
enough creative skills.
However, I have just revolutionized the best way to replicate the flux parts 
in a way that
has never been done before.
I will soon be selling Flux capacitors that are more detailed and close the 
original than
have ever been offered before, and ironically cheaper.
There are several people out there who have been building Flux's for years 
all using
similar methods. I have figured out a way of doing it that takes all the 
hard work out
and speeding up the production and lowing the costs by completely 
replicating the parts
using RTV silicone molds and composite injection resin casting.
I am, as we speak making replicas of the original glass tubes and brass 
relays that
go inside the Flux.
Past traditional methods used by Bruce C., Doug B., and others were to use a 
1/2"
acrylic rod, drill the center and round the edges to replicate the original 
glass vacuum tube
relay. What I have done is make an exact replica mold of one of the relays 
out of a clear resin.
I also replicated the brass electro-magnetic base.
The detail is better than any other replica available, the parts look like 
the real thing.
Another detail I will keep is the correct spacing of the parts, the correct 
lighting,
chase pattern and speed of the lights, and other details that have been 
previously
over looked.
I am also working on having the electronic board made as a custom printed 
board
that only needs the components soldered on to speed up production.
This simplicity and speed will allow me to lower labor costs and sell them 
cheap enough
that anyone would be able to buy one off the shelf and hang it on the wall 
or put it
in their DeLorean.
I will be doing this to a lot of the BTTF props.
Just keep an eye on http://www.bttfstuff.com for more!
I also plan to do this for some of the DMC parts out there too!
- VB


>From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [DML] Optima Battery...you want fries with that?
>Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2005 23:09:50 -0000
>
>Steve,
>
>What's the number I want to call and get a flux capacitor, and
>actually see what shows up.
>
>And to all, are there any instructions out there on how to build a
>replica?
>
>Owning two cars, I tend to show the SS one and would really like to
>have a dummy flux capacitor for show.  Most people only know the car
>for BTTF.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Bernie

[long quote trimmed by moderator]




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Message: 18
Date: Sat, 03 Dec 2005 03:41:22 -0600
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Optima Battery...you want fries with that?

I wonder who is making these?
The only guy I know in those parts who dies that sort of thing is Doug Beck.
- VB


>From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [DML] Optima Battery...you want fries with that?
>Date: Thu, 01 Dec 2005 04:40:36 -0000
>
>Saw one for sale on http://www.az-d.org/flux.html
>
>Sean
>

[long quote trimmed by moderator]





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Message: 19
Date: Sat, 3 Dec 2005 13:35:52 +0100
From: "Tom Niemczewski" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>
Subject: Extended Convex Mirrors - available now

Hello everyone

I just wanted to let everyone know that I have made a second batch of my 
Extended Convex Heated mirrors for the DeLorean. If you thought about 
getting a set before, now you have a second chance. I have been selling 
those mirrors with great success through my website. At this moment I have 
around 70 satisfied customers and not a single complaint! I have even sold a 
few sets to one of the major suppliers. The mirrors are available through my 
website or you can get them directly from me. Just email me directly and 
remember to mention the DML to get a special DML member price of $125 per 
set including shipping to anywhere in the world.

Greetings from Poland!

Tom Niemczewski
vin 6149 (in Poland!)
tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl
www.deloreana.com





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Message: 20
Date: Sat, 03 Dec 2005 08:10:56 -0700
From: "Matt CARPENTER" <mattdcarpenter_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: RE: Re: DeLorean Dents

Hi Dan,

I met with Ken Vance yesterday - he didn't feel comfortable in doing the 
repair - too big of a job.

I'd be curious if others on the DML have had this type of work done and 
which shop or technique was used to remove dents in the hood.   The repiar 
involves two nickel size dents near the center of the hood.

I'll check on the price of a hood from DMCH.  I'm guessing it will be much 
more expensive.

Thanks,

Matt Carpenter
VIN 5586
AZ-D

>From: "Dan" <djdanwilson_at_dml_yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Re: DeLorean Dents
>Date: Sat, 03 Dec 2005 08:53:37 -0000
>
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "carpenter12740" <mattdcarpenter_at_dml_m...>
>wrote:
> >
> > I have
> > two dents on the bonnet I need to correct.
>
>Did you call Kenneth Vance, the person Ben Ferguson recommended in
>Maricopa?
>
>I don't know if dents in the hood can be repaired because you can't
>"pick & file" the metal due to the fiberglass piece underneath that
>the stainless steel is attached to. I think you would have to cut out
>a section of fiberglass below the dent so it can be raised then filed
>down 'till even, then patch the fiberglass section that was cut out.
>I'm guessing a new hood would be cheaper?
>
>Dan W.
>VIN 16192
>AZ-D





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Message: 21
Date: Sat, 03 Dec 2005 16:47:19 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Turbocharger availability

I think you are referring to Island Turbo. At the last communication I
had with Eleanor, who owns Island Turbo, at this time complete kits
are not available. Many parts are still in stock but the castings are
not being produced right now. This kit is not recomended for automatic
transmissions either. You might be able to find a set-up that was
removed from a car but parts will be missing and the turbos will
probably have to be rebuilt. Installation is no small task. It
involves drilling and tapping the block, exhaust system work (you have
to remove the entire old system) and removing and replacing the
distributer. When you are all done you MUST limit the boost to 5 lbs
or less. Any more than that and you WILL blow the ring lands off the
stock pistons. This means you will only see a gain of about 30 HP. It
does make a difference in the way the car moves but it is hard to
justify the expense for the limited gains in performance. The other
popular system on Deloreans is the BAE single turbo set-up. I do not
think any of that is available as a kit but you may be able to build
one up out of parts. The third turbo set-up was the Legend Industries
turbo with aftercoolers. Very limited production (prototypes really)
so you are not going to find any of those.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "patmolamphy" <patmolamphy_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>
> Is anyone know of availbale turbo package.  There used to be a company 
> that advertised in the DMC magazine, but trying to find out the best 
> source for a turbocharger unit.
> Pat
> 5252
>









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Message: 22
Date: Sat, 3 Dec 2005 09:19:32 -0600
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Relays

Great!

Question- how many relays are there total? Say I'd like to replace them all
in the elec compartment, door lock module, and elsewhere? Is there a total
count and a map? A kit, anyone?


On 12/3/05, Toby Peterson <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com> wrote:
>
> Kevin - I think that the thread started with the typical "Bosch-
> style" 5-pin relays that are used for various purposes in the relay
> compartment.  However, since you asked, we have both the open-frame
> and sealed versions of the PCB relays used in the door lock module.
> Ours are rated for 40 amps (tested to 100,000 cycles at maximum
> load), which is far greater than the stock relays.  The sealed relay
> is part number 101421-RS, and the open-frame relay is 101420-RO.
> All you need is a good soldering iron and a steady hand.
>
> Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
> DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
> www.delorean-parts.com
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> >
> > Are those "sealed" relays?
> > Someone once mentioned that sealed relays would be the best to fix
> an oem door lock module. Does anyone have a part number for those
> sealed relays, or any vendor offer those?




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Message: 23
Date: Sat, 03 Dec 2005 18:28:35 -0000
From: "Randal" <azman3us_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Optima Battery...you want fries with that?

Bob  

The "Flux Capacitor's" as referenced below are from a member of the 
AZ-D who has several years experience building movie props and set 
materials. He has also created a mold for the door marker lenses and 
is offering them in various colors ($15.00 for all lenses for both 
doors)  really cool check them out at www.az-d.org in the for sale 
section

Recently he sold a "Ghost Buster" Proton Pack on e-bay for just under 
$2,000! His work is most excellent  (Dude) 

He is also doing some really cool stuff for DCS in 2006!

Randal  "The 3M Guy"
AZ-D
5501

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...> 
wrote:
>
> I wonder who is making these?
> The only guy I know in those parts who dies that sort of thing is 
Doug Beck.
> - VB
> 
> 
> >From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_y...>
> >Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> >To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: Re: [DML] Optima Battery...you want fries with that?
> >Date: Thu, 01 Dec 2005 04:40:36 -0000
> >
> >Saw one for sale on http://www.az-d.org/flux.html
> >
> >Sean
> >
> 
> [long quote trimmed by moderator]
>










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Message: 24
Date: Sat, 3 Dec 2005 14:59:57 -0500
From: Oliver Holler <thehauntfactory_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Volo Car museum

Just found out about the Volo Car Museum, only 32 miles away from the 
Pheasant Run DeLorean Car Show.

http://www.volocars.com/about.html

Has a Delorean, and some 300 other cars, including a bunch of Barris 
mock-ups.

Might be worth seeing in June.
(Apologies if this is old news.)
Oliver
vin#10694





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Message: 25
Date: Sat, 03 Dec 2005 18:57:27 -0000
From: "Dan" <djdanwilson_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Optima Battery...you want fries with that?

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...> wrote:
>
> I wonder who is making these?
> The only guy I know in those parts who dies that sort of thing is
Doug Beck.
> - VB

Johnny Sawyer, VIN 5518, is the AZ-D member who makes them. They are
very nice. His hobby is making movie prop replicas.

Dan W.
VIN 16192
AZ-D







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