From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, December 04, 2005 1:19 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3012

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: DeLorean Dents
From: "Patrick C." <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>

2. Re: Optima Battery...you want fries with that?
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

3. Turbocharger availability
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

4. Re: Starting Question
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

5. Re: DeLorean Dents
From: "M. P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>

6. Re: Re: Turbocharger availability
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Recovering the console.
From: "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com>

8. Re: Turbocharger availability
From: "captain_hydrogen" <captainhydrogen_at_dml_cox.net>

9. Re: Missing idle mixture screw?
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>

10. Re: Re: Starting Question
From: stefan diklich <stefandmc_at_dml_yahoo.ca>

11. RE: Missing idle mixture screw?
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

12. RE: Starting Question
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

13. Re: Missing idle mixture screw?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

14. RE: Re: DeLorean Dents
From: "Matt CARPENTER" <mattdcarpenter_at_dml_msn.com>

15. Re: Volo Car museum
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

16. Re: Turbocharger availability
From: "Dan" <djdanwilson_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. Re: Re: Relays
From: Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>

18. Re: Missing idle mixture screw?
From: Qumefox <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>

19. angle drive replacement question
From: Owen Emry <owen_at_dml_aerodrome.us>

20. Re: DeLorean Dents
From: "Dan" <djdanwilson_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. Re: Starting Question
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

22. Re: Missing idle mixture screw?
From: "vin4258" <vin4258_at_dml_delorean.com>

23. Re: Recovering the console.
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

24. Re: Turbocharger availability
From: "Chris " <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>

25. DeLorean Christmas ideas!!!
From: "Chris Hawes" <chris_at_dml_chawes.demon.co.uk>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 03 Dec 2005 22:05:02 -0000
From: "Patrick C." <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Dents

Did you try Dry Ice?  I've heard from other owners that it works surprisingly well at popping dents back out.  I have heard to heat the area with a hairdryer, then put the dry ice on it, and you sometimes actually hear a "pop" when the dent comes back out of the stainless. 
I saw one of the dry ice repairs on a Ohio Club Member's car, and in the right light you can still see a slight imperfection.

Worth a shot,
-Patrick C.
1880


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Matt CARPENTER" <mattdcarpenter_at_dml_m...>
wrote:
>
> Hi Dan,
> 
> I met with Ken Vance yesterday - he didn't feel comfortable in doing
the 
> repair - too big of a job.
> 
> I'd be curious if others on the DML have had this type of work done and 
> which shop or technique was used to remove dents in the hood.   The
repiar 
> involves two nickel size dents near the center of the hood.
> 
> I'll check on the price of a hood from DMCH.  I'm guessing it will
be much 
> more expensive.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Matt Carpenter
> VIN 5586
> AZ-D
> 
> >From: "Dan" <djdanwilson_at_dml_y...>
> >Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> >To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: [DML] Re: DeLorean Dents
> >Date: Sat, 03 Dec 2005 08:53:37 -0000
> >
> >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "carpenter12740" 
> ><mattdcarpenter_at_dml_m...>
> >wrote:
> > >
> > > I have
> > > two dents on the bonnet I need to correct.
> >
> >Did you call Kenneth Vance, the person Ben Ferguson recommended in 
> >Maricopa?
> >
> >I don't know if dents in the hood can be repaired because you can't 
> >"pick & file" the metal due to the fiberglass piece underneath that 
> >the stainless steel is attached to. I think you would have to cut out 
> >a section of fiberglass below the dent so it can be raised then filed 
> >down 'till even, then patch the fiberglass section that was cut out.
> >I'm guessing a new hood would be cheaper?
> >
> >Dan W.
> >VIN 16192
> >AZ-D
>








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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 03 Dec 2005 16:33:04 -0600
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Optima Battery...you want fries with that?

You can trust I will let everyone know when I am ready to reveal them.
Keep an eye on http://www.bttfstuff.com for updates.
- VB


>From: Chuck McKnight <gullwingdoors_at_dml_yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [DML] Optima Battery...you want fries with that?
>Date: Sat, 3 Dec 2005 11:21:22 -0800 (PST)
>
>Any estimate yet on how much you will charge for the final product?
>
>   Chuck
>
>Videobob Moseley <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:
>   I have just revolutionized the best way to replicate the flux parts 
>in a way that has never been done before.
>I will soon be selling Flux capacitors that are more detailed and close 
>the original than have ever been offered before, and ironically 
>cheaper.
>There are several people out there who have been building Flux's for 
>years all using similar methods. I have figured out a way of doing it 
>that takes all the hard work out and speeding up the production and 
>lowing the costs by completely replicating the parts using RTV silicone 
>molds and composite injection resin casting.
>I am, as we speak making replicas of the original glass tubes and brass 
>relays that go inside the Flux.
>Past traditional methods used by Bruce C., Doug B., and others were to 
>use a 1/2"
>acrylic rod, drill the center and round the edges to replicate the 
>original glass vacuum tube relay. What I have done is make an exact 
>replica mold of one of the relays out of a clear resin.
>I also replicated the brass electro-magnetic base.
>The detail is better than any other replica available, the parts look 
>like the real thing.
>Another detail I will keep is the correct spacing of the parts, the 
>correct lighting, chase pattern and speed of the lights, and other 
>details that have been previously over looked.
>I am also working on having the electronic board made as a custom 
>printed board that only needs the components soldered on to speed up 
>production.
>This simplicity and speed will allow me to lower labor costs and sell 
>them cheap enough that anyone would be able to buy one off the shelf 
>and hang it on the wall or put it in their DeLorean.
>I will be doing this to a lot of the BTTF props.
>Just keep an eye on http://www.bttfstuff.com for more!
>I also plan to do this for some of the DMC parts out there too!
>- VB




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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 03 Dec 2005 22:33:03 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Turbocharger availability

You guys might like to read the "feature" on our website (front page)

www.delorean.co.uk

Martin
DMC Ltd






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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 04 Dec 2005 00:07:30 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: Starting Question

Stefan - This is just a quick thought ... or a shot in the dark.  Do you have the starter plate (part number 101074) installed in your car?  If this part is missing (forgotten during past work, etc.) it will alter the alignment of the starter gear relative to the flywheel ring gear.  This is kind of a stretch, but it jumped into my mind.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stefandmc" <stefandmc_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>
> This has been an ongoing problem since i bought my DMC in April.  
Every once in a while when i go to start my car the engine makes this awful grinding noise, then in have to turn the key all the way back to the insert position and try again. To start it. Now mind you it only happens every onece in a while.







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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 03 Dec 2005 22:50:51 -0000
From: "M. P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Dents

Chris Nicholson can do it,
     He can do anything.  We actually flew him over here and put him up a few years ago.  While staying at my house he graciously took on one of my project hoods and it looks fantastic!  I had dents, a crease, and dimples, mostly under the "X" fiberglass frame and he was able to remove ALL of them.  Once I blend the grain of the hood to my car you'll never be able to tell.

The man is a genius!

Matt Olans
VIN 16816
www.az-d.org


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dan" <djdanwilson_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "carpenter12740" <mattdcarpenter_at_dml_m...>
> wrote:
> >
> > I have
> > two dents on the bonnet I need to correct.  
> 
> Did you call Kenneth Vance, the person Ben Ferguson recommended in 
> Maricopa?
> 
> I don't know if dents in the hood can be repaired because you can't 
> "pick & file" the metal due to the fiberglass piece underneath that 
> the stainless steel is attached to. I think you would have to cut out 
> a section of fiberglass below the dent so it can be raised then filed 
> down 'till even, then patch the fiberglass section that was cut out.
> I'm guessing a new hood would be cheaper?
> 
> Dan W.
> VIN 16192
> AZ-D
>








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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 3 Dec 2005 14:56:26 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Turbocharger availability

I have a Island kit that I'd consider selling for the right offer..

Heck, I have a Legend engine I would consider selling for the right offer!!


--- dmc_5180 <dmc_5180_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:

> Pat,
> 
> TurboManifold is your only option that I know of. 
<SNIP>



		
__________________________________________
Yahoo! DSL  Something to write home about. 
Just $16.99/mo. or less. 
dsl.yahoo.com 





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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 04 Dec 2005 00:46:32 -0000
From: "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Recovering the console.

Has anyone recovered their own console?

I am looking for tips...

Thank you,

Dave Delman
D & 6530







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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 04 Dec 2005 02:29:51 -0000
From: "captain_hydrogen" <captainhydrogen_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Turbocharger availability

Pat,

There have been at least three DeLorean-specific turbo kits available 
over the years.  The Island Twin Turbo Kit, the BAE Single Turbo Kit, 
and the DMC ONLY Intercooled Single Turbo Kit from Harry Ward.  As 
far as I know, all of these kits used IHI Turbos in either single or 
twin configuration.  The Island Kit makes about 210 HP and I think 
the BAE Kits makes about the same.  The lesser known DMC ONLY Kit 
claims to make your DeLorean "200+ H.P.".  I know more about the DMC 
ONLY Kit mainly because I own the last kit Harry Ward put together.  
The instructions specify the use of an IHI RH136 turbo, but when I 
met Harry Ward in California in the summer of 2004, he was using an 
IHI RHB6T-542 turbo pushing 9 psi and putting out 250 - 260 HP.  This 
was possible through the use of an intercooler and his special 
instructions for fuel enrichment.  He also had made his own knock 
sensor and a few other James Bond-like gadgets.  He told me that with 
his kit, he has pushed more than 10 psi. at certain times in his 
ownership, and that he has hit about 320 HP on the same PRV-6.  He 
also says that he has never had to open the engine and make any 
changes to the internals either.  This year I bought the last kit he 
had remaining in his shop sans the turbo and the turbo-back exhaust 
system.  Harry Ward did say that if there was enough interest, he may 
consider making turbo kits again, but as of this writing, he is no 
longer making them.  I might consider parting with this kit if I 
still haven't installed it by the Spring of 2006.  Let me know if you 
have any questions.

BTW - AZ-D Club Mechanic, Ryan Gould had a DeLorean with Harry Ward's 
DMC ONLY kit and let Don Steger of DeLorean Motor Center take it 
around the block.  According to Ryan, "Don said that his was the 
fastest turbo with an automatic transmission that he had ever driven."

Thank you,
Ben Ferguson (Captain Hydrogen)
Arizona DeLorean Club, Car Cruise Director - VIN 10365

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmc_5180" <dmc_5180_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>
> Pat,
> 
> TurboManifold is your only option that I know of.  But the IHI 
turbo's that they used to 
> supply aren't availible any more. I am not sure if they ever found 
a replacement for them.  
> Also the last I heard the kit was over $8K.
> 
> The single BAE turbo kit is no longer availible either, but on a 
very rare occaision have 
> shown up on E-bay at least once that I know of.
> 
> It is easier to buy a car with them installed. They do show up for 
sale now and then.
> 
> Dennis 
> 
> 5180
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "patmolamphy" <patmolamphy_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> >
> > Is anyone know of availbale turbo package.  There used to be a 
company 
> > that advertised in the DMC magazine, but trying to find out the 
best 
> > source for a turbocharger unit.
> > Pat
> > 5252
> >
>









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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 04 Dec 2005 02:30:40 -0000
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Missing idle mixture screw?

You might want to look into getting historic or antique registration 
for your car. I don't know what state you live in but as of January 
1st, 2006 an '81 car is considered in every state to be an antique.  
With that status, unless your car is a daily driver, you probably 
won't need an emissions test.


Bernie

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "vin4258" <vin4258_at_dml_d...> wrote:
>
> Vin 4258 failed emissions a few weeks ago and after doing a tune 
up 
> (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter, oil) it failed again today 
with 
> only minimil improvement.  Emissions tester says he thinks the O2 
> sensor is ok because emission levels pass at high RPM (the 
> sensor 'kicks in' at a higher RPM but does not affect idle 
mixture?)  
> Next option is to adust the idle mixture screw, but when I go 
looking 
> for it, it seems to be missing.  All I see is a hole with no 
apparent 
> end but I do see threads.  What is this and can I simply put in a 
> replacement screw or does this need major work?  I have never 
messed 
> with it and the car only has 7k miles on it and this is the first 
> emissions testing I have been required to get since I bought it...
> 
> thanks,
> 
> CRG
>









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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 3 Dec 2005 23:26:03 -0500 (EST)
From: stefan diklich <stefandmc_at_dml_yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: Re: Starting Question

Toby, 
  Thanks for the reply, I will ask my mechanic on monday when  i talk to him, but if anyone else has anyideas im all ears.

Toby Peterson <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com> wrote:
  Stefan - This is just a quick thought ... or a shot in the dark. Do 
you have the starter plate (part number 101074) installed in your 
car? If this part is missing (forgotten during past work, etc.) it 
will alter the alignment of the starter gear relative to the flywheel 
ring gear. This is kind of a stretch, but it jumped into my mind.

Toby Peterson VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stefandmc" wrote:
>
> This has been an ongoing problem since i bought my DMC in April. 
Every once in a while when i go to start my car the engine makes this 
awful grinding noise, then in have to turn the key all the way back to 
the insert position and try again. To start it. Now mind you it only 
happens every onece in a while.




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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 3 Dec 2005 23:32:26 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Missing idle mixture screw?

CRG, I put up a picture under reference/fuel of the fuel / 02 adjustment
screw down inside the air flow meter. Take a look and you will see the screw
and how hard it would be to come out.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com




-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
vin4258
Sent: Saturday, December 03, 2005 3:01 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Missing idle mixture screw?

Vin 4258 failed emissions a few weeks ago and after doing a tune up 
(plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter, oil) it failed again today with 
only minimil improvement.  Emissions tester says he thinks the O2 
sensor is ok because emission levels pass at high RPM (the 
sensor 'kicks in' at a higher RPM but does not affect idle mixture?)  
Next option is to adust the idle mixture screw, but when I go looking 
for it, it seems to be missing.  All I see is a hole with no apparent 
end but I do see threads.  What is this and can I simply put in a 
replacement screw or does this need major work?  I have never messed 
with it and the car only has 7k miles on it and this is the first 
emissions testing I have been required to get since I bought it...

thanks,

CRG




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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 3 Dec 2005 23:39:30 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Starting Question

Stephen, It wouldn't hurt to say that Special T sent you another new
solenoid to replace the defective one. 
Sound like there is a miss alignment of the starter drive gear to the ring
gear on the flywheel when the starter is engaged. The only other thing I
can't think of would be a voltage dropout when trying to start. I would like
to talk to the mechanic.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



    

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
stefandmc
Sent: Saturday, December 03, 2005 1:58 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Starting Question

This has been an ongoing problem since i bought my DMC in April.Every 
once in a while when i go to start my car the engine makes this awful 
grinding noise, then in have to turn the key all the way back to the 
insert position and try again. To start it. Now mind you it only 
happens every onece in a while.Its not like the engine is trying to 
start either its just a really loud obnoxious grinding sound. Kind of 
embarrassing when there are people with me. Ok update as of, Dec 2. I 
replaced my flywheel (flexplate for my car auto tranny) which was bad 
(chipped teeth etc.), got a new starter from hervey (which ended up 
having a bad solenoid), got the new solenoid today and had my mechanic 
put the new starter on and the car still makes that grinding sound 
when trying to start from time to time. THe car has been at my 
mechanics for a month now and is costing me. Hes getting stumped, and 
hes worked on Deloreans before.Any suggestions on what to check is 
highly appreciated. Thanks again
Stefan




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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 04 Dec 2005 04:46:59 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Missing idle mixture screw?

That hole is supposed to be kept closed except when actually adjusting
the mixture screw after which you MUST reclose the hole and measure
emmisions again. It is not exactly an IDLE mixture screw, it affects
the mixture across the entire RPM range. It is only adjusted at idle.
Your problem *could* be a dirty/bad injector. Or a vacuum leak
possibly  including the seals on the fuel injectors. The mixture screw
is a metric allen screw (I think 3mm) and it is probably in there.
Make sure the frequency valve buzzes, even at idle before you try
adjusting the mixture. The mixture screw is VERY sensitive. It takes
only a little bit of a turn to mess up your emmisions. Generaly it is
best to leave it alone and fix the problem that causes you to fail,
not try to adjust it to fix it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "vin4258" <vin4258_at_dml_d...> wrote:
>
> Vin 4258 failed emissions a few weeks ago and after doing a tune up 
> (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter, oil) it failed again today with 
> only minimil improvement.  Emissions tester says he thinks the O2 
> sensor is ok because emission levels pass at high RPM (the 
> sensor 'kicks in' at a higher RPM but does not affect idle mixture?)  
> Next option is to adust the idle mixture screw, but when I go looking 
> for it, it seems to be missing.  All I see is a hole with no apparent 
> end but I do see threads.  What is this and can I simply put in a 
> 







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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 03 Dec 2005 23:34:55 -0700
From: "Matt CARPENTER" <mattdcarpenter_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: RE: Re: DeLorean Dents

Thanks, Patrick.  Chris Nicholson of PJ Grady appears to be the right person 
for the job.  - Just need to get him to AZ!  Thanks for your thoughts.  Matt 
Carpenter..5586


>From: "Patrick C." <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Re: DeLorean Dents
>Date: Sat, 03 Dec 2005 22:05:02 -0000
>
>Did you try Dry Ice?  I've heard from other owners that it works
>surprisingly well at popping dents back out.  I have heard to heat the
>area with a hairdryer, then put the dry ice on it, and you sometimes
>actually hear a "pop" when the dent comes back out of the stainless.
>I saw one of the dry ice repairs on a Ohio Club Member's car, and in
>the right light you can still see a slight imperfection.
>
>Worth a shot,
>-Patrick C.
>1880


[very long quote trimmed by moderator]





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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 04 Dec 2005 07:49:29 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: Volo Car museum

Oliver and Forum,

I would not exactly call it old news, but it is already "out there".
In fact, it is one of the cruise destinations after the car show.

Using the latest issue of DCS Magazine as the reference, my article
about DCS 2006 and the other DeLorean 25th Anniversary celebration
events includes the DeLorean 25th Anniversary Lake Shore Drive Cruise
on Sunday, June 18, 2006, which will "end" at the Volo Auto Museum
with a "show and shine". (also see DVD included with the DCS issue)
The Volo Museum will also have this cruise listed in their flyers.

Be sure to check out the details on Volo's website after January 1,
2006 under News and Events. (currently lists the 2005 events)

Later,
Rich W.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Oliver Holler <thehauntfactory_at_dml_a...> 
wrote:
>
> Just found out about the Volo Car Museum, only 32 miles away from the 
> Pheasant Run DeLorean Car Show.
> 
> http://www.volocars.com/about.html
> 
> Has a Delorean, and some 300 other cars, including a bunch of Barris 
> mock-ups.
> 
> Might be worth seeing in June.
> (Apologies if this is old news.)
> Oliver
> vin#10694
>








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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 04 Dec 2005 07:27:31 -0000
From: "Dan" <djdanwilson_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Turbocharger availability

> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "patmolamphy" <patmolamphy_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> >
> > Is anyone know of availbale turbo package.  There used to be a
company 
> > that advertised in the DMC magazine, but trying to find out the best 
> > source for a turbocharger unit.
> > Pat
> > 5252

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_o...> wrote:
>
> I think you are referring to Island Turbo... You might be able to
> find a set-up that was
> removed from a car but parts will be missing and the turbos will
> probably have to be rebuilt.


I seem to remember Matt Olans of AZ-D mentioning he knew of someone
who had a complete motor w/ the Island Turbo kit for sale. Don't
recall who it was, or how much or if it's still even available, but I
think he said it was complete, in good shape and ready to be installed
in a car. You may want to contact him to see if he can put you in
touch with the seller.

Dan W.
VIN 16192
AZ-D







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Message: 17
Date: Sat, 03 Dec 2005 22:07:09 -0800
From: Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Relays

At 09:19 AM 12/3/2005 -0600, you wrote:
>Question- how many relays are there total? Say I'd like to replace them all
>in the elec compartment, door lock module, and elsewhere? Is there a total
>count and a map? A kit, anyone?

All the DeLorean vendors sell relay kits that replace the common relays. 
Most of them however are the standard Bosch relays as previously mentioned 
and easy to come by. As for a map, you should get the Workshop manual. It 
covers all the components of the electrical system.

As a guide, here is what you should replace if everything is still 
original. The workshop manual will give you the locations.
Standard auto relay (Bosch 0 332 209 150) - AC Panel, 3rd and 4th fan 
speeds, high and low headlights, start inhibit, cooling fans and ignition 
(in engine compartment).
Bosch Lambda relay - available from any D vendor.
RPM fuel relay - available from any D vendor.
Lock controller relays (automotive PCB mount) - Toby (delorean-parts.com) 
or John (specialtauto.com) sell them.

The two other large relays in the electrical compartment have a low failure 
rate and don't need to be replaced.

Finally, don't forget to replace the circuit breakers. They are either over 
or under rated for the job. Replacing them should prevent issues like 
having the fans cut in and out at random. Any D vendor can also provide you 
with these too.

Chris
VIN 4099





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Message: 18
Date: Sat, 3 Dec 2005 23:09:30 -0600
From: Qumefox <qumefox_at_dml_brazi.net>
Subject: Re: Missing idle mixture screw?

vin4258 wrote:

>Vin 4258 failed emissions a few weeks ago and after doing a tune up
>(plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter, oil) it failed again today with
>only minimil improvement.  Emissions tester says he thinks the O2
>sensor is ok because emission levels pass at high RPM (the
>sensor 'kicks in' at a higher RPM but does not affect idle mixture?)
>Next option is to adust the idle mixture screw, but when I go looking
>for it, it seems to be missing.  All I see is a hole with no apparent
>end but I do see threads.  What is this and can I simply put in a
>replacement screw or does this need major work?  I have never messed
>with it and the car only has 7k miles on it and this is the first
>emissions testing I have been required to get since I bought it...
>
>thanks,
>
>CRG
>
>
>
>
First of all, need to make sure your actually talking about the idle
mixture screws.  These are them here:

 http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/idleadj.jpg

and as John Hervey's image states, they should be snugged down and
shouldn't be adjusted. If you are missing one, then that is likly your
problem.
However. I get the feeling your really talking about the mixture
adjustment, shown here"

http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/engine-1-air-flow.jpg

if so. Then the adjustment screw is pretty deep down, and you'll require
a dwell meter at the minimum to adjust it properly.

http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/air-flow-adj-2.jpg

Just remember that the acess hole you insert the allen wrench to adjust
this should be plugged at all times. If it's open its just another air
leak that throws off the mixture. You also want to be positive you don't
have any other vacuum leaks as well.  Another thing to consider is if
your mixture was really rich for a long time, you might need a new
catalytic converter.. They don't fare too well when the mixture is much
out of the proper range.


--

Chris
VIN# 03209
http://badger.brazi.net/index.pl/delorean



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Message: 19
Date: Sat, 03 Dec 2005 22:27:39 -0800
From: Owen Emry <owen_at_dml_aerodrome.us>
Subject: angle drive replacement question

Yeah, I'll call DMCH as soon as they're open, but the hour is late and I want to get my angle drive replaced asap.

So after I replace it, how tight do I need to get the 32mm axle nut?  The sheet that came from DMCH with the angle drive says "as tight as possible".  I'm working with a 32mm socket and an 18-inch ratchet to turn it.  I can put a cheater bar on it if I need to, but it's really not clear how tight is tight enough.

The paper doesn't say anything about thread locker -- should I put some loctite on it?

Thanks in advance,
Owen
VIN 10470
1 21 GW




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Message: 20
Date: Sun, 04 Dec 2005 07:14:08 -0000
From: "Dan" <djdanwilson_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Dents

Have you seen this page on the PJ Grady Europe site?

http://tinyurl.com/c33hz

I thought it may interest you.

Dan W.
VIN 16192
AZ-D


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Matt CARPENTER" <mattdcarpenter_at_dml_m...>
wrote:
>
> Hi Dan,
> 
> I met with Ken Vance yesterday - he didn't feel comfortable in doing
the 
> repair - too big of a job.
> 
> I'd be curious if others on the DML have had this type of work done and 
> which shop or technique was used to remove dents in the hood.   The
repiar 
> involves two nickel size dents near the center of the hood.
> 
> I'll check on the price of a hood from DMCH.  I'm guessing it will
be much 
> more expensive.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Matt Carpenter
> VIN 5586
> AZ-D








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Message: 21
Date: Sun, 04 Dec 2005 15:47:33 -0000
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Starting Question

stefandmc,

This is a real stretch,but check to see if the flywheel was put on 
backwards,(easy enough to do,if possible)in other words,the side that 
is supposed to face the engine is facing the tranny,that would most 
likely cause your weird problems.
cbl

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, stefan diklich <stefandmc_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>
> Toby, 
>   Thanks for the reply, I will ask my mechanic on monday when  i 
talk to him, but if anyone else has anyideas im all ears.
> 
> Toby Peterson <tobyp_at_dml_k...> wrote:
>   Stefan - This is just a quick thought ... or a shot in the dark. 
Do 
> you have the starter plate (part number 101074) installed in your 
> car? If this part is missing (forgotten during past work, etc.) it 
> will alter the alignment of the starter gear relative to the 
flywheel 
> ring gear. This is kind of a stretch, but it jumped into my mind.
> 
> Toby Peterson VIN 2248 "Winged1"
> DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
> www.delorean-parts.com
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stefandmc" wrote:
> >
> > This has been an ongoing problem since i bought my DMC in April. 
> Every once in a while when i go to start my car the engine makes 
this 
> awful grinding noise, then in have to turn the key all the way back 
to 
> the insert position and try again. To start it. Now mind you it 
only 
> happens every onece in a while.
>









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Message: 22
Date: Sun, 04 Dec 2005 17:52:00 -0000
From: "vin4258" <vin4258_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Missing idle mixture screw?

Unfortunately, Utah does not exempt from emissions testing vehicles 
built after 1967 (why would they when they can get their $25 per 
vehicle emissions test fee).  Any thoughts on the original problem?  
The car seems to run just fine at all RPMs and starts right up every 
time.  Also, the area where the screw seems to be missing has a 
raised ring area, where an adjustment screw would seem to fit, but 
instead of a screw is a deep hole...


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_c...> wrote:
>
> You might want to look into getting historic or antique 
registration 
> for your car. I don't know what state you live in but as of 
January 
> 1st, 2006 an '81 car is considered in every state to be an 
antique.  
> With that status, unless your car is a daily driver, you probably 
> won't need an emissions test.
> 
> 
> Bernie
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "vin4258" <vin4258_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> >
> > Vin 4258 failed emissions a few weeks ago and after doing a tune 
> up 
> > (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter, oil) it failed again 
today 
> with 
> > only minimil improvement.  Emissions tester says he thinks the 
O2 
> > sensor is ok because emission levels pass at high RPM (the 
> > sensor 'kicks in' at a higher RPM but does not affect idle 
> mixture?)  
> > Next option is to adust the idle mixture screw, but when I go 
> looking 
> > for it, it seems to be missing.  All I see is a hole with no 
> apparent 
> > end but I do see threads.  What is this and can I simply put in 
a 
> > replacement screw or does this need major work?  I have never 
> messed 
> > with it and the car only has 7k miles on it and this is the 
first 
> > emissions testing I have been required to get since I bought 
it...
> > 
> > thanks,
> > 
> > CRG
> >
>








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Message: 23
Date: Sun, 04 Dec 2005 16:14:16 -0000
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Recovering the console.


Dave,
You have to be very careful,if you attempt to recover your 
console,unlike the dash or barnacle,is is made of cardboard,(the 
frame part of the console)and is easily distorted/damaged,especially 
if and when you take off the original material,you will have NOTHING 
but a very flimsily cardboard,that will most likely,just fall apart 
in pieces,once the original material is removed,you would either need 
to make or put the console in some sort of stationary fixture to keep 
it solid and held in place while it is being recovered.You should be 
able to make a holding fixture to hold it firm from 1"X 3" Pine 
Lumber,and drywall screws,easily gotten at your local Home 
Depot/Lowes.Hope that helps.
cbl




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_a...> wrote:
>
> Has anyone recovered their own console?
> 
> I am looking for tips...
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> Dave Delman
> D & 6530
>









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Message: 24
Date: Sun, 04 Dec 2005 15:33:54 -0000
From: "Chris " <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Turbocharger availability

Hmmm......interesting. I've been running my "Island" setup at 7 1/2 
pounds since I got it 12 years ago. That's what Eleanor and her 
mechanic recommended as a maximum setting. You have to remember that 
the car runs normally aspirated 99% of the time. The only time the 
turbos kick in is when I'm passing or climbing a steep grade. I 
would bet that of the 55k on my car the turbos have been on for less 
than 1k and at 7 1/2 lbs less than 50 miles, and that estimate is 
probably way to high.

Chris
6301


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_o...> 
wrote:
>
> I think you are referring to Island Turbo. At the last 
communication I
> had with Eleanor, who owns Island Turbo, at this time complete kits
> are not available. Many parts are still in stock but the castings 
are
> not being produced right now. This kit is not recomended for 
automatic
> transmissions either. You might be able to find a set-up that was
> removed from a car but parts will be missing and the turbos will
> probably have to be rebuilt. Installation is no small task. It
> involves drilling and tapping the block, exhaust system work (you 
have
> to remove the entire old system) and removing and replacing the
> distributer. When you are all done you MUST limit the boost to 5 
lbs
> or less. Any more than that and you WILL blow the ring lands off 
the
> stock pistons. This means you will only see a gain of about 30 HP. 
It
> does make a difference in the way the car moves but it is hard to
> justify the expense for the limited gains in performance. The other
> popular system on Deloreans is the BAE single turbo set-up. I do 
not
> think any of that is available as a kit but you may be able to 
build
> one up out of parts. The third turbo set-up was the Legend 
Industries
> turbo with aftercoolers. Very limited production (prototypes 
really)
> so you are not going to find any of those.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757 
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "patmolamphy" <patmolamphy_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> >
> > Is anyone know of availbale turbo package.  There used to be a 
company 
> > that advertised in the DMC magazine, but trying to find out the 
best 
> > source for a turbocharger unit.
> > Pat
> > 5252
> >
>








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Message: 25
Date: Sun, 4 Dec 2005 11:38:25 -0000
From: "Chris Hawes" <chris_at_dml_chawes.demon.co.uk>
Subject: DeLorean Christmas ideas!!!

I hope this is okay to come on to the list, as the first item below is
relevant to the list.

 

My unique DeLorean DMC-12 mouldings:-

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/3x-DMC-12-DeLoreans-1-24-scale-plaster-cast_W0QQitemZ6
992246697QQcategoryZ223QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

this link lists them like all together:-

http://search.ebay.co.uk/_W0QQsassZchris-von-bronQQhtZ-1

 

See the other 18 auctions I currently have too.

 

If you know anyone looking for Christmas ideas, the above may be useful.

 

Thanks 

 

Chris Hawes

Vin 5255



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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