From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, December 05, 2005 1:42 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3014

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Turbocharger availability
From: "M. P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>

2. Defrost swich.
From: "Alan Roberts" <twodelo2_at_dml_earthlink.net>

3. Turbo and Boost in HP
From: "patmolamphy" <patmolamphy_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. Re: Turbocharger availability
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

5. Re: Missing idle mixture screw?
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>

6. RE: Re: DeLorean Dents
From: "Matt CARPENTER" <mattdcarpenter_at_dml_msn.com>

7. Re: Re: Turbocharger availability
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

8. Re: angle drive replacement question
From: "dmc_5180" <dmc_5180_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Re: Missing idle mixture screw?
From: "dmc_5180" <dmc_5180_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. RE: Fuse #12 Blues
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>

11. Re:Turbocharger availability
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

12. Re: Re: angle drive replacement question
From: Owen Emry <owen_at_dml_aerodrome.us>

13. Re: Driver door latch issue
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com

14. RE: Re: Turbocharger availability
From: "Shain" <dsmguy_at_dml_ptd.net>

15. Re: Turbocharger availability
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

16. Re: Re: Turbocharger availability
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

17. Convert To Biodiesel
From: James Pilcher <jamespilcher1_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

18. Re: Re: Turbocharger availability
From: lordshill_at_dml_aol.com

19. Re: Convert To Biodiesel
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. Re: Re: Turbocharger availability
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. Re: Re: Turbocharger availability
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. Re: Re: angle drive replacement question
From: "Alan Roberts" <twodelo2_at_dml_earthlink.net>

23. Fuse # 12 Blues (Tom 10902)
From: "Alan Roberts" <twodelo2_at_dml_earthlink.net>

24. Re: Starting Question
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>

25. Re: Convert To Biodiesel
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 04 Dec 2005 20:16:29 -0000
From: "M. P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>
Subject: Re: Turbocharger availability

Chris,
     I have an Autometer boost gauge installed to monitor my vacuum/boost pressure.  Phoenix is at about 1400 ft. in elevation. 
After talking with Rob Grady about how I would use the car, he decided on 5.5 PSI as the maximum setting for me.  I've hit it twice in 12,000 miles and that was for maybe a mile or so during a high speed run. 
Normally when I am in boost I see 3 or 4 psi max and it is definitely noticeable, but I'm not in boost conditions for more than a mile or two at a time.  I just don't find the need, usually due to speed
limits....:)
     I agree though, 99% of the time I cruise around without forced induction.  The car with its dual cat exhaust, rich mixture, and no mufflers is faster and "peppier" than a stock DeLorean.  I was very lucky to find my car with the Island Turbo kit already installed, and after Rob tuned it properly it has been really quick.  If I drive with a light foot I can see highway cruising at 75 MPH yielding 28 MPG, and if there is significant downhill activity I can cross the 30 MPG barrier.  Since having added a custom rear valance my mileage results have gone up, much to my surprise.  On a sustained 90 MPH run through the desert from Las Vegas to Phoenix I averaged 27.9 MPG over a 200 mile range.  I was leadfooting it to pass people and then there were pockets of traffic that slowed me into the 50's, but the gas mileage was still incredible!

Matt Olans
VIN 16816
www.az-d.org


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Chris " <chrisau79_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>
> Hmmm......interesting. I've been running my "Island" setup at 7 1/2 
> pounds since I got it 12 years ago. That's what Eleanor and her 
> mechanic recommended as a maximum setting. You have to remember that 
> the car runs normally aspirated 99% of the time. The only time the 
> turbos kick in is when I'm passing or climbing a steep grade. I would 
> bet that of the 55k on my car the turbos have been on for less than 1k 
> and at 7 1/2 lbs less than 50 miles, and that estimate is probably way 
> to high.
> 
> Chris
> 6301








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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 4 Dec 2005 14:45:01 -0800
From: "Alan Roberts" <twodelo2_at_dml_earthlink.net>
Subject: Defrost swich.

Has anyone successfully rebuilt a defrost switch using PJ Grady one page drawing?   What am I doing wrong.  If you want, just send response to me at twodelo2_at_dml_earthlink.net.

Thanks,

Al
Al Roberts
twodelo2_at_dml_earthlink.net
#4649/#16049

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 04 Dec 2005 20:17:40 -0000
From: "patmolamphy" <patmolamphy_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Turbo and Boost in HP

I've been reading many different opinions on the turbo.  Some say you can boost HP to about 200, others claim to only be able to boost 30 bhp without modification to the piston rings.

Has anyone removed their catalytic converter?  I've heard that you could pick up 15 bhp just with that mod, and with no emmissions testing for my car, does that mean adjusting the fuel system (air/fuel mix)?  Question from a non mechanical person Pat
5252







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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 04 Dec 2005 20:44:16 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Turbocharger availability

I would question that pressure. Are you really running 7 1/2 #? It needs to be checked with an accurate gauge. You really have to check each turbo individually and then, after adjusting each, hook the control lines together. You are right, most of the time the engine is not under boost. The amount of time under boost is largely a function of the driver's style. If you drive very conservatively you may be able to have it at 7 1/2 # but most people, especially if they drive aggresively, would blow the pistons with that boost. Remember, the Island system is NOT intercooled and some installations do not have enough fuel enrichment. This means you are flirting with disaster if you go into detonation. The altitude and type of fuel you use also make a difference. If you are at a high elevation you could add more boost without ill effects. Eleanor is not a mechanic and cannot give you engineering advice and one of the people who helped develop the turbo package, John Conway, showed us a piston that blew from overboost when we had him as our guest speaker at a DMA dinner. He said anything over 6 # is dangerous. I would check the boost and adjust it down to 6# on both turbos. You should also be using synthetic motor oil and make sure your cooling system is bulletproof, meaning it holds 15 psi for 15 minutes and has fresh anti-freeze. The turbos start making boost around 2,500 RPM's so if you keep the rev's down you stay out of boost.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Chris " <chrisau79_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>
> Hmmm......interesting. I've been running my "Island" setup at 7 1/2 
> pounds since I got it 12 years ago. That's what Eleanor and her 
> mechanic recommended as a maximum setting. You have to remember that 
> the car runs normally aspirated 99% of the time. The only time the 
> turbos kick in is when I'm passing or climbing a steep grade. I would 
> bet that of the 55k on my car the turbos have been on for less than 1k 
> and at 7 1/2 lbs less than 50 miles, and that estimate is probably way 
> to high.
> 
> Chris
> 6301

[long quote trimmed by moderator]




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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 04 Dec 2005 20:54:05 -0000
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Missing idle mixture screw?

Is the missing screw in the intake manifold or on the fuel distributor?  That would help all of us to help you.  If it's missing from the intake manifold, you have a major vacum leak.  If your fuel distributor doesn't have some kind of plug on the adjustment screw hole, you have a vacum leak there.  You will need to plug it, a golf tee will do the job, just make sure you shorten it to only plug the hole.  If there is no screw way down inside the fuel distributor, then you have another problem, but I doubt this is the case.  I would think your car wouldn't even run if that screw was missing.

Once you replace the missing screw, you will need a tune up, as the fuel mixture is going to be totally off.  What do your spark plugs look like now?  You have replaced them, any signs of rich running would show up and you can fix the problem.

25 bucks for an emissions test, what a rip off, does your state allow waivers if you spend x amount of dollars trying to fix the problem?  If so you should be OK if you just show your reciepts for all of the parts you have replaced.

Bernie

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "vin4258" <vin4258_at_dml_d...> wrote:
>
> Unfortunately, Utah does not exempt from emissions testing
vehicles 
> built after 1967 (why would they when they can get their $25 per 
> vehicle emissions test fee).  Any thoughts on the original
problem?  
> The car seems to run just fine at all RPMs and starts right up
every 
> time.  Also, the area where the screw seems to be missing has a raised 
> ring area, where an adjustment screw would seem to fit, but instead of 
> a screw is a deep hole...


[long quote trimmed by moderator]




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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 04 Dec 2005 13:50:35 -0700
From: "Matt CARPENTER" <mattdcarpenter_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: RE: Re: DeLorean Dents

Dan - I have indeed.  I'm hoping to have Chris Nicholson of PJ Grady Europe correct my dents.
Thanks for sharing.

Matt Carpenter
5586


>From: "Dan" <djdanwilson_at_dml_yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Re: DeLorean Dents
>Date: Sun, 04 Dec 2005 07:14:08 -0000
>
>Have you seen this page on the PJ Grady Europe site?
>
>http://tinyurl.com/c33hz
>
>I thought it may interest you.
>
>Dan W.
>VIN 16192
>AZ-D

[long quote trimmed by moderator]





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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 04 Dec 2005 23:50:37 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Turbocharger availability

Hi Ben

Not to attack you because I know you're only repeating what you've heard but...

>There have been at least three DeLorean-specific turbo kits available 
>over the years.  The Island Twin Turbo Kit, the BAE Single Turbo Kit, 
>and the DMC ONLY Intercooled Single Turbo Kit from Harry Ward.  As far 
>as I know, all of these kits used IHI Turbos in either single or twin 
>configuration.
>
I *thought* the BAE kit was so-called because it used a BAE turbo. I've heard from the owner of one over here that it's actually off an aircraft engine. Could be wrong though!

>The Island Kit makes about 210 HP and I think the BAE Kits makes about 
>the same.
>
Not without some modifications that go beyond those specified in the installation instructions. For starters, as you say, neither use intercoolers. The Alpine GTA and Renault 25 turbo pushed out 200hp on 8psi of boost into a 2.5, and that's with an intercooler and compresion ratio of 7.6:1

>The lesser known DMC ONLY Kit
>claims to make your DeLorean "200+ H.P.".  I know more about the DMC 
>ONLY Kit mainly because I own the last kit Harry Ward put together.
>The instructions specify the use of an IHI RH136 turbo, but when I met 
>Harry Ward in California in the summer of 2004, he was using an IHI 
>RHB6T-542 turbo pushing 9 psi and putting out 250 - 260 HP.  This was 
>possible through the use of an intercooler and his special instructions 
>for fuel enrichment.
>
I am very dubious about these figures. There are many reasons for this but one very basic reason is as follows: We know that under normal aspiration, the DeLorean engine knocks out 130hp. Now all other things being equal, you have to get twice the amount of air and fuel into it to generate twice the power. That means running a bar of boost - 14.7psi or thereabouts. And that's assuming everything else is tuned to accept it.

> He told me that with
>his kit, he has pushed more than 10 psi. at certain times in his 
>ownership, and that he has hit about 320 HP on the same PRV-6.  He also 
>says that he has never had to open the engine and make any changes to 
>the internals either.
>
Again, highly unlikely. Considering the most powerful 12v PRV put into a production car (I'm choosing my words carefully because even then, it's a hybrid) was the 3 litre even fire in the Venturi Atlantique 300 at 281bhp. It runs a compression of close to 7:1 and a bar of boost!

To go over the magic 300 barrier with a proper even fire turbo 3 litre PRV means running boost of 20psi.

I think I need to add to my article :-)

Martin
DMC Ltd
www.delorean.co.uk





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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 04 Dec 2005 22:38:32 -0000
From: "dmc_5180" <dmc_5180_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: angle drive replacement question

Owen ,

I think it's about 200 ft pounds. Either way, if you don't have a torque wrench to measure it. Just tighten it as tight as you can without a cheater bar. It will be plenty tight for all practical purposes. 

Dennis

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Owen Emry <owen_at_dml_a...> wrote:
>
> Yeah, I'll call DMCH as soon as they're open, but the hour is late and 
> I want to get my
angle drive replaced asap.
> 
> So after I replace it, how tight do I need to get the 32mm axle nut?  
> The sheet that came
from DMCH with the angle drive says "as tight as possible".  I'm working with a 32mm socket and an 18-inch ratchet to turn it.  I can put a cheater bar on it if I need to, but it's really not clear how tight is tight enough.
> 
> The paper doesn't say anything about thread locker -- should I put some loctite on it?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> Owen
> VIN 10470
> 1 21 GW
>









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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 04 Dec 2005 22:56:20 -0000
From: "dmc_5180" <dmc_5180_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Missing idle mixture screw?

This is a stretch, but do you know the condition of the catylitic converter? A friend of mine recently found out his cat was empty. Apparently, one of the previous owners decided to knock the guts out of it. Fortunately, he lives in an area that doesn't require testing.

Dennis




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "vin4258" <vin4258_at_dml_d...> wrote:
>
> Unfortunately, Utah does not exempt from emissions testing vehicles 
> built after 1967 (why would they when they can get their $25 per 
> vehicle emissions test fee).  Any thoughts on the original problem?
> The car seems to run just fine at all RPMs and starts right up every 
> time.  Also, the area where the screw seems to be missing has a raised 
> ring area, where an adjustment screw would seem to fit, but instead of 
> a screw is a deep hole...
 

[long quote trimmed by moderator]




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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 4 Dec 2005 17:47:04 -0800
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: RE: Fuse #12 Blues

It seems to me that the best way to diagnose this is to check the diodes in the circuit, and separate the circuit into sections to track down any short to ground.

Where in the car do the two wires splice/join in the two halves of the door lighting system (ground)?

ANY help appreciated.

Tom
10902

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Tom Tait
Sent: Thursday, December 01, 2005 6:19 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Fuse #12 Blues

Most or all of my interior bulbs are burnt out I think (low on my list as I'm not driving the car much yet), but the red and yellow lights in the doors work.  Up until a few days ago they worked fine, went off with the door switch normally.  Then they stayed on one night,  I charged the battery back up and pulled fuse #12 and they went out, fuse back in and they came on
- no surprise there.  Then I pulled both wires off the back of both door switches until I had time to replace or repair the faulty door switch - and the lights stayed on.

I looked at the wiring diagram and realized that I must have a faulty light delay module, so I pulled it out.  With that module (the white one) out, and both door switches unplugged, the lights were still on.

I assume I have a bad diode or two, but where else do I look for a short to ground, which I assume is the problem.

Fuse #12 sits lonely in the ashtray tonight,  waiting for its chance to be reinstalled, please help.

Tom
10902





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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 4 Dec 2005 14:51:55 EST
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re:Turbocharger availability

 
 
Martin,
 
That is a great write-up on your site.  Very informative.
 
Thanks
 
Dave Delman


Message: 3
Date: Sat, 03 Dec 2005 22:33:03 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Turbocharger availability

You  guys might like to read the "feature" on our website (front  page)

www.delorean.co.uk

Martin
DMC Ltd




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 04 Dec 2005 19:55:42 -0800
From: Owen Emry <owen_at_dml_aerodrome.us>
Subject: Re: Re: angle drive replacement question

dmc_5180 wrote:
> Owen ,
> 
> I think it's about 200 ft pounds. Either way, if you don't have a 
> torque wrench to measure it. Just tighten it as tight as you can 
> without a cheater bar. It will be plenty tight for all practical purposes.

Thanks for the info.  Since that nut appears to attach the axle to the suspension, I don't want it coming loose!

Regards,
Owen





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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 5 Dec 2005 01:30:45 EST
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Driver door latch issue

In a message dated 12/2/2005 10:01:34 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, derek.grozio_at_dml_verizon.net writes:

When  driving the D on a bumpy road, the front half of the driver door moves as  I go over bumps. By move I mean jitters like the front half is not  latched, probably about 5-6mm of movement. >>
 
Perhaps one of the lock rods is disconnected as a work-around to cure a  door that doesn't always lock or unlock properly.  You'll see when you disassemble your door. Compare it to the drawings in the Workshop  manual. I've heard of it being done. Hah! I'm a fine one to offer advice  when my own door has problems...the bellcrank gets hung up so that sometimes the  door won't unlock, or the door bounces back open instead of latching when I  close it.  I have to tap the bellcrank with my finger to dislodge it. So,  the top half of my door is always off for access. I just haven't had the time or  temperament to remove the bottom door cover again. Last time I did that it was  off until it was at P. J. Grady for a manifold gasket repair. Too bad the door  was behaving then.
 
Wayne A. Ernst, vin 11174

 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 4 Dec 2005 23:23:30 -0500
From: "Shain" <dsmguy_at_dml_ptd.net>
Subject: RE: Re: Turbocharger availability

Hey guys,  this is just some of my input here.  I built a large amount of high hp 4 cyl., cars.  Although I am not familiar with the turbo used on these kits,  I do know that there are a lot of more efficient models on the market.  The DeLorean rear mounted engine is the perfect setup for a set of top mount intercoolers like the ledgend cars had.  In my past experience with a lower compression ratio, better pistons rings (turbo rings are shaped differently), piston ring spacing, I have been able to run 15 psi all day without much failure, and 25 psi on track days (4 cyl car though).  It seems though that no one is really sure what was done to a ledgend car in the first place to indicate what is 100% different.  If anyone in interest I'm sure we could assemble a small turbo system with new kkk turbos,  that would be reliable.  Do this date my largest engine put down 570whp (awd car) at 25 psi.  

-Shain

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of M. P. Olans
Sent: Sunday, December 04, 2005 3:16 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Turbocharger availability

Chris,
     I have an Autometer boost gauge installed to monitor my vacuum/boost pressure.  Phoenix is at about 1400 ft. in elevation. 
After talking with Rob Grady about how I would use the car, he decided on 5.5 PSI as the maximum setting for me.  I've hit it twice in 12,000 miles and that was for maybe a mile or so during a high speed run. 
Normally when I am in boost I see 3 or 4 psi max and it is definitely noticeable, but I'm not in boost conditions for more than a mile or two at a time.  I just don't find the need, usually due to speed
limits....:)
[moderator snip]




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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 05 Dec 2005 03:48:00 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Turbocharger availability

The problem with the turbo is a lot more than just making more horespower. When you start approaching 200 HP you face the "weakest link" problem. The transmission and clutch were not meant to handle that kind of power. When the DMA had Fred Dellis, of Legend Industries, as a guest speaker he said that Legend Industries was able to get all the power they wanted out of the motor. His problem was the rest of the car couldn't handle it. Right away they started breaking the input shaft on the transmission. You have to remember they were going to be putting this into new cars and had to warranty everything so they were trying to engineer a package that would last. This is a whole lot different from selling an aftermarket kit with no warranty.
BTW Legend made a lot of changes inside the motor to handle the boost.
The long range plan for the transmission was to dump Renault and use another box able to handle the higher levels of power. Even John Conway said some owners always wanted more and were turning up the boost. He was scared that they would all eventually blow up. He was OK at 6# but even that can be dangerous depending the ambient temperature, octane, etc. On a hot day with low octane gas and running the boost for a while with the engine getting real hot you could approach detonation and it won't take long to beat the pistons to death. 6# is maybe a little conservative but the results of overboosting are expensive. Ask Mark Levy. His oil breather blows out whenever he drove under boost.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_d...> wrote:
>
> Hi Ben
> 
> Not to attack you because I know you're only repeating what you've
heard 
> but...
> 
> >There have been at least three DeLorean-specific turbo kits available
>








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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 05 Dec 2005 06:56:46 -0600
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Turbocharger availability

The BAE kit uses a Rajay (Rotomaster) 300 series turbo that is also used on 
some aircraft.

BTW, actual dyno testing we've done on my son's car shows that going from 5 
pounds to 7 pounds of boost returned no gains whatsoever.

-Joe Kuchan


>From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Turbocharger availability
>Date: Sun, 04 Dec 2005 23:50:37 +0000
>
>Hi Ben
>
>Not to attack you because I know you're only repeating what you've heard
>but...
>
> >There have been at least three DeLorean-specific turbo kits available
> >over the years.  The Island Twin Turbo Kit, the BAE Single Turbo Kit,
> >and the DMC ONLY Intercooled Single Turbo Kit from Harry Ward.  As
> >far as I know, all of these kits used IHI Turbos in either single or
> >twin configuration.
> >
[moderator snip]




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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 05 Dec 2005 13:49:28 +0000
From: James Pilcher <jamespilcher1_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Convert To Biodiesel

Hi,

I just got #5380 running for the first time since i bought it in july 
(turns out it had a ceized cold start valve). Just need to diagnose the 
cooling problem that kept her off the road in the first place and all 
will be well.

It occured to me whilst fantasising about the fun i'm going to have in 
it, that the world's oil supply has just peaked and petrol (gasoline to 
you yanks) is going to get more expensive and then run out altogether.

How monstrous a task would it be to replace the PRV with a Turbo-diesel 
that could run on bio-diesel? I assume the fuel delivery system might 
need altering too?

Any thoughts.....

cheers
james

		
___________________________________________________________ 
Yahoo! Model Search 2005 - Find the next catwalk superstars - http://uk.news.yahoo.com/hot/model-search/




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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 5 Dec 2005 10:13:50 EST
From: lordshill_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Turbocharger availability

 
Hello..  I have a BAE Turbo that was installed by the prior owner back  on 
May 1, 1984.  When I purchased the car from the original owner he was  very 
specific about letting it warm up properly and "cool" down properly.   When I 
asked him why I was informed that it may "blow up" if it is not  done.  I have 
always done as he said but am wondering if it is  accurate.  I've never had any 
other problems with the transmission; clutch  or drive train.
 
Roy
0893
 
 
In a message dated 12/5/2005 10:03:41 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net writes:

The  problem with the turbo is a lot more than just making more
horespower. When  you start approaching 200 HP you face the "weakest
link" problem. The  transmission and clutch were not meant to handle
that kind of power. 


 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 5 Dec 2005 07:33:06 -0800 (PST)
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Convert To Biodiesel

Aside from the obvious engine conversion issues, there
might also be some with the tranny since diesels are
usually low-rpm torque monsters.  Might eat up the
original tranny.  

Just another consideration.

Steve

--- James Pilcher <jamespilcher1_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

> Hi,
> 
> I just got #5380 running for the first time since i
> bought it in july 
> (turns out it had a ceized cold start valve). Just
> need to diagnose the 
> cooling problem that kept her off the road in the
> first place and all 
> will be well.




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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 5 Dec 2005 07:24:13 -0800 (PST)
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Turbocharger availability

When I got it there was a slight problem with detonation. I designed a water injection system and that did away with it. That design is posted on the DML somewhere. I also run premium fuel and synthetic oil that is designed for turbo charged engines. I have no "blow by". Mark and I have discussed this in the past. Yes, they are set at 7 1/2 pounds. I see no need to change that now. No problem with clutch or transmission. I don't shift under boost. Full synthetic in the transmission too. I don't think I'm what anyone would call an aggressive driver but no moss grows on my tires either.
   
  Chris
  6301

David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net> wrote:
  I would question that pressure. Are you really running 7 1/2 #? It
needs to be checked with an accurate gauge. You really have to check
each turbo individually and then, after adjusting each, hook the
control lines together. You are right, most of the time the engine is
not under boost. The amount of time under boost is largely a function
of the driver's style. If you drive very conservatively you may be
able to have it at 7 1/2 # but most people, especially if they drive
aggresively, would blow the pistons with that boost. 
[moderator snip]




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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 5 Dec 2005 07:45:52 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Turbocharger availability

Just to be clear, this problem was on my ISLAND turbo
car..  

As I have stated before on the DML, I pay close
attention to turbo DeLoreans at DCS and other DeLorean
events.   I have yet to see with my own eyes a
DeLorean with a turbo kit that does not have a small
amount of pressure in the crankcase even at idle. 
Most had small amounts of smoke coming out too.

6068 was so bad (before I removed the engine) that
under full boost the oil breather would pop out of the
engine, and oil would spray out of it.  On select
occasions, the oil would hit the exterior of the
exhaust/turbo and start a fire.  Good thing I kept a
fire extinguisher with me!

The project to do a engine swap in 6068 is back on
track now..  So all is well!  Maybe when I am done
with it, I will tear down the PRV I removed from 6068
to see exactly what is broken.

1860, the Legend turbo does not have any of these
problems.


--- David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net> wrote:
<SNIP>
> overboosting are expensive. Ask Mark Levy. His oil
> breather blows out
> whenever he drove under boost.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
<SNIP>


		
__________________________________ 
Start your day with Yahoo! - Make it your home page! 
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs




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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 5 Dec 2005 07:42:00 -0800
From: "Alan Roberts" <twodelo2_at_dml_earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Re: angle drive replacement question

I'm also concerned about the wheel coming loose.  Since the axle tube goes 
through to the outside of the wheel (where is it held on by the axle nut) it 
seems to me the solution is to remove  or loosen the axle nut.  Put the 
angle drive on and tighten it but just to the bottom (no resistance on the 
axle tube).  And then tighten the axle nut to its specified level (looks 
like 145 lb-ft)  This should properly tension the tube with the correct 
(36mm?) socket on the axle nut and a torque wrench from the end that it is 
easy to use the wrench.
Al Roberts
twodelo2_at_dml_earthlink.net
#4649/#16049 







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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 5 Dec 2005 07:33:13 -0800
From: "Alan Roberts" <twodelo2_at_dml_earthlink.net>
Subject: Fuse # 12 Blues (Tom 10902)

I just found and cured an opposite problem with one of my cars, an open.  That was easier.  You should be able to work the problem by removing diodes to isolate portions of the circuit as you proposed.  There is a hint as to the source of the problem.  Did this happen after having had a door open?

Using M:18:12 in the shop manual (the Door and Inferior Light circuit)  find the diode which has a Purple/Black wire in the cathode side of it.  On the drawing, it is the Lower left hand diode.   Separate one side of the wires from the diode.  Using a VOM or, it you have a small portable 12 volt battery (A very handy tool for trouble shooting) Power the Right hand door circuit (Purple/Black wire)  With the one side of the right hand door switch unplugged, do the door lights work, or is there a short to ground.  The reason I like the portable 12 volt source is that the three lights in parallel (the ones on the door) represent a very low resistance, something you might not be able to see the difference between and a short.
A similar process can be done for the left hand door with the other door isolation diode.  Then find the diode which changes the definition of the door to a jar (small joke) which runs off of fuse # 5.  It sounds like that circuit is sound, but worth a check.  Lastly the top right hand diode which will show if the two interior lights work.  

When the correct time comes in the restoration process, you might seriously think about replacing all lamps in the car, except the turn/brake lights and head lights with LEDs and leave the White "Dome Light Decay" out of the car.  I've found that is a nice enhancement.  It also reduces the battery drain when the doors are jars and or the trunk or engine cover are open.  I hope that I've helped.  

By the way, I can give you what I believe to be the correct info on diode replacements when your interested.

Al
Al Roberts
twodelo2_at_dml_earthlink.net
#4649/#16049

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 05 Dec 2005 15:57:30 -0000
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Starting Question

I've never seen this on a D before, but on the other cars I've worked
on it has been either a faulty starter - The Mechanism that engages
the gear gets sticky and dosen't extend fully before spinning up - Or
the ring gear on the flywheel has worn teeth.
My 0.02
Matt Smith



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_s...> wrote:
>
> stefandmc,
> 
> This is a real stretch,but check to see if the flywheel was put on 
> backwards,(easy enough to do,if possible)in other words,the side that 
> is supposed to face the engine is facing the tranny,that would most 
> likely cause your weird problems.
> cbl
> 
[moderator snip]




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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 05 Dec 2005 10:58:05 -0500
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Convert To Biodiesel

James,
I just did a homework assignment on bio-diesel. As far as the engine
replacement I don't have any direct knowledge of switching gas for diesel
engines. The most difficult part would still be the matching of the tranny
to the engine. Other than that the fuel tank could still be used but you may
have to replace the fuel pumping components. Here is the main web page I
found most useful during my research. http://www.biodiesel.org/ You may find
better engine conversion information here or one of the other related pages.

Dave Sontos

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "James Pilcher" <jamespilcher1_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, December 05, 2005 8:49 AM
Subject: [DML] Convert To Biodiesel


> Hi,
>
> I just got #5380 running for the first time since i bought it in july
> (turns out it had a ceized cold start valve). Just need to diagnose the
> cooling problem that kept her off the road in the first place and all
> will be well.
>
> It occured to me whilst fantasising about the fun i'm going to have in
> it, that the world's oil supply has just peaked and petrol (gasoline to
> you yanks) is going to get more expensive and then run out altogether.
>
> How monstrous a task would it be to replace the PRV with a Turbo-diesel
> that could run on bio-diesel? I assume the fuel delivery system might
> need altering too?






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