From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, December 16, 2005 3:40 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3029

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Plastic and Metal Door Guides (was: Door Oddity?)
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_delorean.com>

2. Re: Eibach springs/shock set
From: "Christophe Vieira" <chris_delorean_at_dml_hotmail.com>

3. Re: Eibach springs/shock set
From: "Christophe Vieira" <chris_delorean_at_dml_hotmail.com>

4. Re: Failed emmissions AGAIN
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

5. shocks
From: "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Re: Re: Re-tint Lens
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

7. Trans problem-voilent shake
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

8. RE: Bad Cat?
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

9. Re: Plastic and Metal Door Guides (was: Door Oddity?)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

10. Re: Failed emmissions AGAIN
From: "valleyrat12" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. Re: Re: Eibach springs/shock set
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Second gear fork pin (David T)
From: "alex morgan" <mauibarber_at_dml_hotmail.com>

13. Re: Plastic and Metal Door Guides (was: Door Oddity?)
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>

14. Re: Re: Eibach springs/shock set
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

15. Re: Eibach springs/shock set
From: "John Macias" <jdm5_at_dml_hotmail.com>

16. Re: Re: Eibach springs/shock set
From: ". ." <klo_at_dml_cidio.net>

17. Re: Re: Eibach springs/shock set
From: <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

18. Re: Re: Failed emmissions AGAIN
From: Owen Emry <owen_at_dml_aerodrome.us>

19. Something Hot is coming
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

20. Re: Second gear fork pin (David T)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

21. Re: Plastic and Metal Door Guides (was: Door Oddity?)
From: "Dan" <djdanwilson_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. Re: Trans problem-voilent shake
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

23. Re: Re: Failed emmissions AGAIN
From: "Tom Niemczewski" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>

24. Re: Plastic and Metal Door Guides (or, why *I* love Dave T's posts)
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_delorean.com>

25. Tamper proof plug?
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 21:21:49 -0000
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Plastic and Metal Door Guides (was: Door Oddity?)

According to the "Material Receiving Cards" for these plastic door guides, the factory had only received 208 complete sets of these guides as of Dec 16, 1981. Those wouldn't have lasted very long befreo being depleted and then they would have had either to go back to fitting the metal guides at either the factory or later in the states at the QAC.

James Espey
DMC (Texas)
http://www.delorean.com


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_h...> wrote:
>
> While attending a car show with the AZ-D this past weekend, I noticed 
> that the doors on my car have plastic caps around the latches.
> 
> Dan Fox believes the plastic parts were introduced on the 1983 cars.  
> Sure enough, of the 10 D's we had there, all 1981 and 1982 cars had 
> metal parts.  The 1983 cars had plastic.
> 
> Here's my mystery.  I have 1982 VIN 10820 with plastic parts that 
> "shouldn't be there."
> 
> Dan's car is 100 behind me (10920) and has the "correct" metal parts. 
> The parts have different numbers of screw holes, so it seems other 
> parts of the door are different too.  Both cars were built in Dec. '81.
> 
> Any ideas on this curiousity?  
> 
> Marv
> #10820
> AZ-D
>










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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 22:36:30 -0000
From: "Christophe Vieira" <chris_delorean_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Eibach springs/shock set

There is 3 positions to adjust the rear spring seats on PJ Grady's shocksso I can fix it for the rear. James told that the final high is reached after about 1000 miles and I put on them only 250 on them.

To mix shocks and spring, both parts must have the same working area.
After it's a matter of characteristics, you can use Eibach springs with Spax, Koni or other brand of shocks.

I did not complain because handling is there (much much better than
before) and I think that PJ Grady's performance shocks are really good with Eibach springs.

Regards,

Chris.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
>
> Are the rear shocks that Chris used adjustable? I believe that if you 
> put the Eibach springs on rear shocks that are stock, or designed to 
> operate only at the stock height, the rear is going to sit low but 
> about 1/2 inch. The DMCH rears are adjustable to compensate for this 
> as part of the design. (So are Marty's by the way). I have no idea why 
> the front would appear high, unless the shocks you used are severely 
> pressurized. I have seen the same springs end up at different heights 
> on different cars for no particular reason. (yes - we have swapped 
> springs around cars trying to figure some of this out).
> 
> Sometimes its not good to "break up" a system, and when you mix and 
> match different vendors' systems, you can't complain to the system 
> integrator since it's yourself.
> 
> Dave
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, doki_pen <doki_pen_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> >
> > That is definitely NOT the look I'm going for.
> >  
> > Jon
> > 
> > ----- Original Message ----
> > From: Christophe Vieira <chris_delorean_at_dml_h...>
> > To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 12:16:06 PM
> > Subject: [DML] Re: Eibach springs/shock set
> > 
> > 
> > Hello,
> > 
> > I installed on my car DMCH Eibach spring and PJ Grady perfo shocks.
> > I use to drive fast and handling is really great with this setup and 
> > yes, it could be better if ride was a little more firm. We do not
> use
> > to drive "barge" in Europe. ;-)
> > 
> > The only "bad" point about Eibach spring is that the front is still
> a
> > little too hight on my car.
>








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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 21:51:01 -0000
From: "Christophe Vieira" <chris_delorean_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Eibach springs/shock set

Hello James,

I had the shocks from PJ Grady a long time before the Eibach springs were available, I did not want to replace them as they were still new when I received your springs, this is the only reason.

I put only 250 miles on them since I got them installed on my car. I hope I will get the same result shown on your photos. I did not think that the Grady's shocks are in cause because I believe they are designed to  work on lowered cars.

Even if the high is still not perfect, the handling is there and really there.

Best regards,

Chris.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "James Espey" <james_at_dml_d...> wrote:
>
> Chris -
> 
> The photo you posted shows that something is not right on your car. I 
> question whether the problem is in the shocks or if it's not yet 
> settled in yet.
> 
> Here is a photo of our complete setup (Eibach springs and our brand of
> shocks) after about 1,000 miles:
> 
> http://www.delorean.com/eibach.jpg
> http://www.delorean.com/eibach2.jpg
> 
> This is what ALL of our installs look like after they settle in - I do 
> know that our system was designed to be installed as a unit - why did 
> you choose the Grady shocks?
> 
> James Espey
> DMC (Texas)
> http://www.delorean.com
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Christophe Vieira"
> <chris_delorean_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> >
> > Hello,
> > 
> > I installed on my car DMCH Eibach spring and PJ Grady perfo shocks.
> > I use to drive fast and handling is really great with this setup and 
> > yes, it could be better if ride was a little more firm. We do not 
> > use to drive "barge" in Europe. ;-)
> > 
> > The only "bad" point about Eibach spring is that the front is still 
> > a little too hight on my car.
> > 
> > You can see the result here :
> > http://perso.wanadoo.fr/delorean/vin04271-640x480/vin04271-0482.jpg
> 
> (SNIP)
>









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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 16 Dec 2005 00:56:05 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Failed emmissions AGAIN

I have cleaned many sets of injectors. I have never found a "clogged"
one. What I DO see is injectors with lousey spray patterns (very
common) and a few that open at too low a pressure or dribble. In all cases I have been able to make them work better, not always like new ones, but certainly good enough so that the engine will run well. When an injector has a bad spray pattern the fuel isn't atomized well and the fuel does not get evenly distributed and therefore does not burn effiecently. I believe the injectors "gum up" from disuse. On a car that was never stored (or unused for an extended period of time) I suspect the injectors would never get to the point they would have to be cleaned. Gasoline sold today is formulated for fuel injected cars and has cleaners built in to the additive package. For cars that are used on a regular basis these cleaners will keep the fuel system clean. They WILL NOT clean up a contaminated system. Even the fuel system cleaners that you can buy like Techron, as good as they are, will not clean up a contaminated system. It can't hurt to try a bottle but don't expect miracles. If you suspect a contaminated fuel system the first thing to do is to inspect the inside of the fuel tank. No sense in cleaning up injectors if your fuel tank has dirt or water inside! BTW the injectors have a fine screen inside to prevent small particles from getting into the injector. If the screen gets dirty enough to be plugged up you have bigger problems than a bad fuel injector! Using glass jars to catch fuel can be dangerous, if one should break and you have a spark you could ruin your day!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_g...> wrote:
>
> You really can't clean the injectors yourself. The BOSCH shops that 
> clean them simply run some solvent thru them for a short period of 
> time. That's great if you've got a bit of gum that's clogging up the 
> injectors, but can't clear out hard debris, or repair a weak spring.
> So it's probably more economical to just replace all of the injectors,
>








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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 16 Dec 2005 02:33:04 -0000
From: "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: shocks

Hi James I was talking with Chris about his Eibach springs.. my car has the Eibach springs which i just installed last month with shocks from Ed Uding in the Netherlands.. and my car sits really low in the front.. the tires are almost up in the wheel wells.. so I adjusted the rear to about the same.. there is no nose up stance on my car at all anymore... why do they sit differently?? I can send u a pic if u like..Dave..vin. 15275..







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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 21:17:29 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Re-tint Lens

 
 
In a message dated 12/12/2005 2:47:22 P.M. Central Standard Time, TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com writes:

Marv

Note as well that you and I have relatively close  VINs.  Maybe a bad batch.

Tom
10902


>>
11596 had the same problem until I replaced it with a new  lens.  I think there must have been a bad batch out there.
 
Andy
 
Fargo, ND
1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 16 Dec 2005 01:14:29 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Trans problem-voilent shake

Hey guys, it's been a long time since I've posted here. I haven't really had the time (5 years to go in the Army). Anyway, my car shakes violently when starting from a dead stop in first gear until about 5- 10 mph. This doesn't happen in any other gear including reverse and the clutch was replaced recently. So, it's obviously internal-anyone know which part it could be that's causing this? For now I'll just have to deal with burning the clutch a little starting out in second. 
Thanks all, and happy holidays! -----Dani B. #5003







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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 21:49:05 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Bad Cat?

Nathan,
In working with the factory that builds the cat's the 2 things that render the cats non effective is they get clogged up and won't pass the exhaust properly. 
The second thing is the precious metal that coats the block is also rendered useless when the car is flooded a lot and has the glow and is burned up.
Flooding for extended periods of time will also render the 02 sensor useless also because it also is coated with a precious metal. 
Proper maintenance with tune ups and fixing gas smells at the first signs can and will prolong the life of the cat and 02. 
As it stands now, 25+ years old they need to be checked.
The block which is the part of the cat that does the work can't be looked at and determined if it's good or bad. 
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com

   

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
valleyrat12
Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 1:36 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Bad Cat?

I pulled my Cat today, lookied inside and there is a screen but I can shine light through from one side to the other.  I admit I do not know much about them other than there is platinum inside them. I am pretty sure this is the original that came with the car. Is there any way to tell if it is bad by looking at it?

Nathan





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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 16 Dec 2005 03:52:39 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Plastic and Metal Door Guides (was: Door Oddity?)

There must be a lot more than 208 sets. I guess that would mean 4 pieces per set for a total of 832. On the wharehouse tour in Ohio I saw a tote bin chock full of those things and I know that some are installed on some cars so there must have been more than 208 sets. The early cars didn't have guides, the later cars had metal guides. I suspect that the plastic ones where supposed to be used after the stock of the metal ones were used up. I bet the factory went to plastic to save weight (and costs). The metal ones add a lot of weight to the doors and you could probably save at least one spline. You probably don't even have to adjust the torsion bar to retrofit the plastic guides onto an early car that didn't have any. As to why a particular vin has metal or plastic, since the QAC centers either did not keep records or they were lost, there is no way to know what happened. Same story about the hoods and other running changes. Even though records seem to indicate vin cut-offs for running production changes like the antennae, hoods, radios, and tailpipes, I do not think the factory followed it nor the QAC centers. Typically assembly plants will use parts until they run out and then go over to the updated parts so they use up all of the older inventory. Just because they knew they were going to go over to the plastic guides does not mean they were going to throw away all the metal ones that had not been used yet. As far as the factory was concerned I don't think they really worried much about the vin cut-offs. That is for the concours judges to argue over! As far as the "Materiel Receiving Cards", one can wonder if the records are complete and accurate since DMC went into bankrupcy and no one really protected the records.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "James Espey" <james_at_dml_d...> wrote:
>
> According to the "Material Receiving Cards" for these plastic door 
> guides, the factory had only received 208 complete sets of these 
> guides as of Dec 16, 1981. Those wouldn't have lasted very long befreo 
> being depleted and then they would have had either to go back to 
> fitting the metal guides at either the factory or later in the states 
> at the QAC.
> 
> James Espey
> DMC (Texas)
> http://www.delorean.com
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> >
> > While attending a car show with the AZ-D this past weekend, I 
> > noticed that the doors on my car have plastic caps around the latches.
> > 
> > Dan Fox believes the plastic parts were introduced on the 1983 cars.  
> > Sure enough, of the 10 D's we had there, all 1981 and 1982 cars had 
> > metal parts.  The 1983 cars had plastic.
> > 
> > Here's my mystery.  I have 1982 VIN 10820 with plastic parts that 
> > "shouldn't be there."
> > 
> > D








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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 16 Dec 2005 04:11:41 -0000
From: "valleyrat12" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Failed emmissions AGAIN

I have recently purchased the car in Colorado and drove it back to California. The PO said that he put nothing but premium in the tank and I have followed suite. The fuel in the tank is only a week old. 
I do not know when the last tune up was done, I am doing one myself along with replacing the O2 sensor, changing the oil and installing a new cat. There is a tick coming from the right hand valve train (confirmed by Delorean Motor Company in Garden Grove) so I will also be re-gapping the valves. I also had Don check and adjust the mixture but I gather that if my O2 sensor is bad that will not mean much.  Out side of the work I am doing on the car (previously
mentioned) I do not know what else could be the problem. Also I am not aware of any major work that was done to the engine in the recent past aside from a fuel system work over done by the PO. (It had sat for a while before he bought it) The tank was cleaned and a new fuel pump was installed. 

BTW I got 26 miles to the gallon on the drive home, sounds like a healthy engine to me. Or could it indicate a lean condition? I figured Delorean Motor Company would have caught that. If it fails again I will be at aloss. (and in trouble with my wife....) :(

Nathan

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_g...>
wrote:
>
> You really can't clean the injectors yourself. The BOSCH shops that 
> clean them simply run some solvent thru them for a short period of 
> time. That's great if you've got a bit of gum that's clogging up
the
> injectors, but can't clear out hard debris, or repair a weak
spring.
> So it's probably more economical to just replace all of the
injectors,
> rather than to clean them, IF they are clogged.
> 
> But first of course, you have to verify that you HAVE clogged fuel 
> injectors. You could do this with six baby food jars, and a bit of 
> patience. Check for proper spray pattern, and an equal
displacement of
> fuel. HOWEVER...
> 
> You stated that your numbers on HydroCarbons were 18 & 16. I'm
> *assuming* that these are the variances on a two-speed emissions
test,
> because they're simular to what my car was putting out when
properly
> tuned. Now as a comparison, I had a single clogged injector. And
here
> are the results off my car:
> 
> 152ppm HC/.22%CO _at_dml_ 2,500 RPM & 1138ppm/.48%CO _at_dml_ 750 RPM
> 
> Your results are no where near what I had, so I wouldn't
immediately
> think of this being a clogged injector since it doesn't look like
your
> issue is an incomplete burn in the combustion chamber. My initial 
> guess would be either bad gas, or the engine is running too lean.
But
> the issue isn't something that can easily be solved, without a
little
> background on the car.





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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 20:18:05 -0800 (PST)
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Eibach springs/shock set

How about posting some pictures?
   
  Chris
  6301

delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com wrote:
  I'm an original owner with 25 years of driving the DeLorean. When I bought the car I hated the 4x4 look with the extreme high front end. The first time I exceed 100mph the car felt as though it was close to going air borne and needless to say there was little feeling of control. At the time the only option was the cut and swap which I did. Handling improved dramatically as did the way the car looked. I drove it like that for many years replacing the original Girling shocks once during the years they were available. When Marty had the Mid-States softer progressive springs made along with the shock kit I switched to that. The ride improved considerably and the handling diminished only slightly. The problem I incurred was the softer suspension settled too low when the trunk was full of luggage. I ended up with a rubber doughnut between a pair of coils on each side of the front suspension. ]





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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 16 Dec 2005 04:23:24 +0000
From: "alex morgan" <mauibarber_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Second gear fork pin (David T)

My 5speed delorean has the second gear pop out problem however I have been able to learn to drive the car so that it almost never does it.  I just wanted to know if its possible that this second gear problem could be caused by something else?  Could a linkage adjustment or old fluid cause only second to do this?  I have a S.S. clutch line installed and ONLY second gear gives me trouble.  Before I have my mechanic open the transmission I wanted to make sure it couldn't be anything else.  (when i say possible I mean probable, I know anything is possible when working on cars) Mahalo, Alex



From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Transmission problems - an update

The broken roll pin and the bent shifter fork are from not fully disengaging the clutch and forcing shifts. Probably from having the plastic clutch line and/or just banging the poor box into gears. The shifter fork can be straightened and the roll pin is easily changed once you get the box out and apart. If you shift it "like a normal person" and put the braided steel clutch line in you should not have any problems with the manual transmission. For added peace of mind many owners use synthetic gear oil. The claim is easier and smoother shifting, especially in cold weather. 




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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 16 Dec 2005 05:33:58 -0000
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Plastic and Metal Door Guides (was: Door Oddity?)

These really are unique from VIN to VIN.  Makes it fun.

Thanks, James.  

Marv
#10820
AZ-D








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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 16 Dec 2005 11:24:34 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Eibach springs/shock set

I can add something to this discussion.

For years now, the DeLorean Owners Club over here has been supplying lowered front springs. The quaity control is good as with any spring manufacturer and they are all tested before shipping to show the same elasticity.

I have a set of Grady's shocks on my car, and a set of these springs on the front. My car is forever getting comments on its low front end as it's really low without the front wheel obviously disappearing into the wheel arch. I've tracked down this photo - sorry that the front end's obscured a bit, but I think you can see how level the car is. I have the rear set to the lowest "ring" on the shock.

http://www.delorean.co.uk/DSCN1866.JPG

The DOC springs have been known to produce different results on different cars too.

Remember the main suspension bolts must be torqued with the weight of the car on them.

I am not happy with Grady's shocks from a handling point of view. I enjoy spirited country-lane driving although they give a fantastic ride on the motorway and at speed, I will be taking them off in the near future. Anyone want to make me an offer? They have approx 8000 miles on them since I bought them in Memphis.

Martin

Christophe Vieira wrote:

>Hello James,
>
>I had the shocks from PJ Grady a long time before the Eibach springs 
>were available, I did not want to replace them as they were still new 
>when I received your springs, this is the only reason.
>
>I put only 250 miles on them since I got them installed on my car. I 
>hope I will get the same result shown on your photos. I did not think 
>that the Grady's shocks are in cause because I believe they are 
>designed to  work on lowered cars.
>
>Even if the high is still not perfect, the handling is there and really 
>there.
>
>Best regards,
>
>Chris.
>







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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 16 Dec 2005 13:03:12 -0000
From: "John Macias" <jdm5_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Eibach springs/shock set

Could you add a picture of your vehicle? I'd love to see it with these 17 & 18" wheels. I'm also impressed you actually got luggage in there.

John
#7009

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, <delornut_at_dml_p...> wrote:
>
>--- The ride is a bit harsher than
the Mid 
> States setup but I also added 17" wheels up front and 18" wheels in
the rear 
> with extremely low profile tires. There is give and take between
handling 
> and a softer ride. I prefer the edge going to handling and even
after a 5500 
> mile trip in late summer I didn't find anything all that
objectionable with 




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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 16 Dec 2005 02:06:14 -0700
From: ". ." <klo_at_dml_cidio.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Eibach springs/shock set

FWIW.... I had the front and rear shocks as well as the front springs of PJ Grady in my DeLorean for many years and with over 80,000 miles or more.  This 
combination handled and rode well and they were ready for replacement.

Recently, I had heard so much as how great the DMCH springs and shocks combination was.  I wanted to see for myself if there was a difference of the 
DMCH's system versus PJ Grady's system so I had the DMCH complete package of front and rear springs and shocks installed two months ago by PJ Grady.

My findings to my DeLorean, is that after the DMCH system was installed, the rear sat way too low and cause the two rear wheels off to be off camber.  The 
rear wheels was doing a split and causing a slight premature wear to the inner tire.  This situation also causes the rear end to “sinks” under hard 
acceleration.   I believe that this is where upper or lower adjusting control arms are necessary to help correct the camber condition. The other situation was 
that the DMCH front springs are lower then the front "sagging" springs of PJ Grady's that they had replaced and with the passenger's side about a 1/2" lower 
then the driver's side.  With all of these conditions, the standing height was not visually right or physical correct, although the DMCH system is correctly 
installed.  The DMCH's system ride was also a big disappointment.  Handling was not very good on turns at higher speeds for the rear was sliding out on 
tight turns causing sway and the ride was generally bumpy and hard.  I couldn't believe that this is the ride what everyone is bragging about?

Two weeks ago I've taken my DeLorean back to PJ Grady to have the rear shock adjusted to a higher setting with the rear driver's side adjusted a 1/4" higher 
then the passenger's rear shock.   This adjustment had made a BIG difference in the standing height and also correcting the condition of the camber, as well 
as the ride and the handling ability of the DeLorean -- Offering a total major improvement in the ride.  Now, it "rides on rails" like everyone claims.  So, the 
DMCH's front spring and shocks are excelling in handling and offers a "good" general ride.   

IMO, the PJ Grady's front spring and shocks offers a more comfortable ride although a bit short in handing as compare to the DMCH's system, but this can 
be due to the original OEM rear springs which prompts the rear to be higher then the DMCH's rear springs.  

As of now, the DMCH's system front springs in my DeLorean are not symmetrical in height as they should be with the passenger's side being lower of 3/8" 
to 1/2".   I don't know the reason for the differences, for maybe the springs have a different compression rate or the well housings maybe different in 
dimensions?  I do know that my frame has not been in an accident as to cause the differences.  Rob said that he had installed several DMCH systems in 
other DeLoreans and have gotten better results for they were correct in their standing heights.  Rob suggested that shims could be fitted to the front 
springs of my DeLorean as to help raised the front and to help the ride.  Rob also suggested driving it for a while until they "settle in" and when he gets the 
shims made up, the shims will be installed to correct these situations.

So, until the shims are added…. The ride of the DMCH is still worth the money so far and they do feel like the “DeLorean is on rails.”   Personal, I still like the 
ride to be softer and I believe that the shocks of PJ Grady may yield that effect if fitted with the DMCH springs.  I won’t know until they are installed in this 
combination in the future.

For reference, I have the standard OEM rims and the correct sizes of Michelin Pilots tires for the front and rear.   Oh yes, on tires, I like the Pirellis slightly 
better, for they are quieter.

Kayo Ong
#5508
Lic  9D NY


----- Original Message -----
From: "Christophe Vieira" <chris_delorean_at_dml_hotmail.com>
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 21:51:01 -0000
Subject: [DML] Re: Eibach springs/shock set

> Hello James,
> 
> I had the shocks from PJ Grady a long time before the Eibach springs
> were available, I did not want to replace them as they were still new
> when I received your springs, this is the only reason.
> 
> I put only 250 miles on them since I got them installed on my car. I
> hope I will get the same result shown on your photos. I did not think
> that the Grady's shocks are in cause because I believe they are
> designed to  work on lowered cars.
> 
> Even if the high is still not perfect, the handling is there and
> really there.
> 
> Best regards,
> 
> Chris.
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "James Espey" <james_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> >
> > Chris -
> > 
> > The photo you posted shows that something is not right on your car. I
> > question whether the problem is in the shocks or if it's not yet
> > settled in yet.
> > 
> > Here is a photo of our complete setup (Eibach springs and our brand of
> > shocks) after about 1,000 miles:
> > 
> > http://www.delorean.com/eibach.jpg
> > http://www.delorean.com/eibach2.jpg
> > 
> > This is what ALL of our installs look like after they settle in - I do
> > know that our system was designed to be installed as a unit - why did
> > you choose the Grady shocks?
> > 
> > James Espey
> > DMC (Texas)
> > http://www.delorean.com
> > 
> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Christophe Vieira"
> > <chris_delorean_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hello,
> > > 
> > > I installed on my car DMCH Eibach spring and PJ Grady perfo shocks.
> > > I use to drive fast and handling is really great with this setup and
> > > yes, it could be better if ride was a little more firm. We do not use
> > > to drive "barge" in Europe. ;-)
> > > 
> > > The only "bad" point about Eibach spring is that the front is still a
> > > little too hight on my car.
> > > 
> > > You can see the result here :
> > > http://perso.wanadoo.fr/delorean/vin04271-640x480/vin04271-0482.jpg
> > 
> > (SNIP)
> >
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
>  





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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 16 Dec 2005 11:31:19 -0600
From: <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Eibach springs/shock set

I've put a photo called 6938 in the photo section in the Yahoo site. It was 
the only photo I had handy and my car is hibernating for the winter.

Bruce Benson


> How about posting some pictures?
>
>  Chris
>  6301
>
> delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com wrote:
>  I'm an original owner with 25 years of driving the >DeLorean. When I 
> bought
> the car I hated the 4x4 look with the extreme high front 
>  >end....................................... 






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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 16 Dec 2005 11:02:11 -0800
From: Owen Emry <owen_at_dml_aerodrome.us>
Subject: Re: Re: Failed emmissions AGAIN

valleyrat12 wrote:
> I have recently purchased the car in Colorado and drove it back to 
> California. The PO said that he put nothing but premium in the tank 
> and I have followed suite.

Just for the record, that's a waste of money.  Your engine is designed for 87 octane, and anything above that accomplishes nothing aside from driving up the value of my Exxon/Mobil stock.  Thoughtful of you, but not necessary.  :-)

Here, again, is a link to the gasoline FAQ:
http://www.faqs.org/faqs/autos/gasoline-faq/part3/

...and a relevant quote from the FAQ:
If you use a fuel with an 
octane rating higher than what the engine can use, you are just wasting 
money by paying for octane that you can not utilise.
[...]
If your vehicle does not have a knock sensor, then using a fuel with an 
octane rating significantly below the octane requirement of the engine means 
that the little men with hammers will gleefully pummel your engine to pieces. 




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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 16 Dec 2005 18:32:54 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: Something Hot is coming


Group, DRP is coming to the Delorean community Jan.1st, 2006. 
Stand by for more details..

John Hervey

www.specialtauto.com

 

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 16 Dec 2005 19:15:58 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Second gear fork pin (David T)

You can go over the shifter adjustments, lubricate the shift linkage,
make sure the oil level is correct, maybe even change the gear oil.
Chances are these things may even improve it slightly but ultimatly to
cure the problem you will have to replace the bent/broken roll pin.
The pin itself is not the big deal, once you pull the trans it is
tempting to start replacing other things like the clutch plate,
throwout bearing, pilot bearing, slave sylinder, etc. The labor is
about the same, the price of the parts will add up quickly!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "alex morgan" <mauibarber_at_dml_h...> wrote:
>
> My 5speed delorean has the second gear pop out problem however I
have been 
> able to learn to drive the car so that it almost never does it.  I just 
> wanted to know if its possible that this second gear problem could
be caused 
> by something else?  Could a linkage adjustment or old fluid cause o









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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 16 Dec 2005 15:46:48 -0000
From: "Dan" <djdanwilson_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Plastic and Metal Door Guides (was: Door Oddity?)

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_h...> wrote:
>
> These really are unique from VIN to VIN.  Makes it fun.

...unless you're a concours judge!







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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 16 Dec 2005 19:10:04 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Trans problem-voilent shake

If it shakes that bad my guess is the engine is not running correctly
at idle so when you start out you have no power unless you rev it up
and slip the clutch. The clutch itself and the transmission would not
cause the shake. Maybe the brakes are dragging or the e-brake drags,
that would make it hard for the motor to get the car moving! Put it in
neutral and see if you can roll the car on a flat, level driveway. If
nothing is dragging you have to go over the motor and find out why it
doesn't have enough power. Start with the mechanical and vacuum
advance and the base timing. Make sure both advance mechanisms are
working and the base timing is right.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
>
> Hey guys, it's been a long time since I've posted here. I haven't 
> really had the time (5 years to go in the Army). Anyway, my car shakes 
> violently when starting from a dead stop in first gear until about 5-
> 10 mph. This doesn't happen in any other gear including reverse and 
> the clutch was replaced recently. So, it's obviously internal-anyone 
>








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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 16 Dec 2005 17:23:02 +0100
From: "Tom Niemczewski" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>
Subject: Re: Re: Failed emmissions AGAIN

Hello Nathan

One of the reasons for your failed emissions might be the prolonged use of 
premium fuel. I am assuming that you mean 93 octane. Higher octane gas 
causes deposits to form inside the cylinders and in the exhaust system. That 
in turn will over time cause the compression to be raised. With that you 
will get higher temperatures in the center of the cylinders along with 
unburned gasoline close to the edges of the cylinders. The DeLorean engine 
was designed to use 87 octane gasoline and this is what you should use. 
Using 93 will just cost you much more and will not do any good for the car.
Before you go to test the emissions again make sure to burn all of the 93 
you have in the tank and then fill it up with 87. Then go for an hour long 
drive at highway speeds. This should clean up a lot of the deposits left 
from using 93 octane fuel. From there go directly to the testing station. 
Try not to get stuck in traffic as idling for prolonged period of time will 
again cause deposits to start forming.
I posted about the use of 93 gas in the past, but I guess it's a good idea 
to mention that again for new members on the list.
BTW, 87 octane in USA is the same as 91 in Europe.

Good luck

Tom Niemczewski
vin 6149 (in Poland!)
tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl
www.deloreana.com




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "valleyrat12" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, December 16, 2005 5:11 AM
Subject: [DML] Re: Failed emmissions AGAIN


>I have recently purchased the car in Colorado and drove it back to
> California. The PO said that he put nothing but premium in the tank
> and I have followed suite. The fuel in the tank is only a week old.
> I do not know when the last tune up was done, I am doing one myself
> along with replacing the O2 sensor, changing the oil and installing
> a new cat. There is a tick coming from the right hand valve train
> (confirmed by Delorean Motor Company in Garden Grove) so I will also
> be re-gapping the valves. I also had Don check and adjust the
> mixture but I gather that if my O2 sensor is bad that will not mean
> much.  Out side of the work I am doing on the car (previously
> mentioned) I do not know what else could be the problem. Also I am
> not aware of any major work that was done to the engine in the
> recent past aside from a fuel system work over done by the PO. (It
> had sat for a while before he bought it) The tank was cleaned and a
> new fuel pump was installed.
>
> BTW I got 26 miles to the gallon on the drive home, sounds like a
> healthy engine to me. Or could it indicate a lean condition? I
> figured Delorean Motor Company would have caught that. If it fails
> again I will be at aloss. (and in trouble with my wife....) :(
>
> Nathan
>





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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 16 Dec 2005 19:18:09 -0000
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Plastic and Metal Door Guides (or, why *I* love Dave T's posts)

There certainly *are* more than 208 sets - my posting said that 208
sets complete sets had been received as of Dec 16, 1981 - the month
when the cars in question were assembled. More than ONE THOUSAND
additional sets arrived at the factory the first week of January,
1982. We have about 100 complete sets of all four pieces remaining in
inventory.

Incidentally, most parts deliveries to the factory stopped about the
time they went into receivership, though these records were still
maintained by employees at the factory as indicated by on these cards.
Later today I'll post scans of these Material Receiving Cards - which
as the only known surviving records are better than numbers pulled out
of the air - in the forums at:

http://www.dmchelp.com/

James Espey
DMC (Texas)
http://www.delorean.com 

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_o...> wrote:
>
> There must be a lot more than 208 sets. I guess that would mean 4
> pieces per set for a total of 832. On the wharehouse tour in Ohio I
> saw a tote bin chock full of those things and I know that some are
> installed on some cars so there must have been more than 208 sets.
(SNIP)
> As far as the "Materiel Receiving Cards", one
> can wonder if the records are complete and accurate since DMC went
> into bankrupcy and no one really protected the records.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "James Espey" <james_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> >
> > According to the "Material Receiving Cards" for these plastic door
> > guides, the factory had only received 208 complete sets of these
> > guides as of Dec 16, 1981. Those wouldn't have lasted very long before
> > being depleted and then they would have had either to go back to
> > fitting the metal guides at either the factory or later in the states
> > at the QAC.
> > 
> > James Espey
> > DMC (Texas)
> > http://www.delorean.com








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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 16 Dec 2005 13:09:31 -0800
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: Tamper proof plug?

I need to get my tamper proof plug opening clear so I can try to correct
a mixture problem.  I'm not sure what the factory plug looks like, but I
don't think that is what I have.  It looks like there are threads going
down the inside of the hole, then a metallic mass - maybe the remnants
of a screw and the head has been stripped out or maybe JB Weld or
similar - its hard to tell especially when I don't know what either the
virgin hole or the original plug look like.

I'm about to get some duct tape sticky side up under the hole, get the
shopvac running next to the hole, and just drill it out.  If this is a
bad idea somebody stop me.

Does anyone have a close-up photo of the hole with and without the
factory plug installed?

When all is done can I carefully seal it up with some ultra copper
silicon?

Tom
#10902




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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