From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, December 19, 2005 6:19 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3035

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Trans problem-violent shake
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

2. Re: Replacing Delorean Steering Rack
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

3. Re: Hot Start Solution
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

4. RE: Odd Temperature Gauge
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>

5. Re: Hot Start Solution
From: "Steve" <p2freak_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. RE: Re: Trans problem-violent shake
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

7. Re: Paint Codes
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

8. Re: Hot Start Solution
From: Chris Murley <qumefox_at_dml_gmail.com>

9. Re: Free flow air intake is a joke
From: "Lawrence Lormand" <lawrencesr_at_dml_netzero.net>

10. RE: Hot Start Solution
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

11. "performance air intake"
From: "Daniel Deutsch" <mroboto_at_dml_aol.com>

12. Re: Replacing Delorean Steering Rack
From: Chris Murley <qumefox_at_dml_gmail.com>

13. Re: Question for Toby
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

14. RE: Re: Eibach springs/shock set
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Re: Failed emmissions AGAIN
From: "Dan" <djdanwilson_at_dml_yahoo.com>

16. Re: Free flow air intake is a joke
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

17. RE: "performance air intake"
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

18. Re: Free flow air intake is a joke
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

19. Question for owners with issues.
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_gmail.com>

20. Re: Eibach springs/shock set
From: "Mike Bosworth" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>

21. Moving and Changing e-mail adddress.
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_gmail.com>

22. Re: Hot Start Solution
From: "Scot Stern" <Scotstern_at_dml_aol.com>

23. Is there a block author feature on yahoo,
From: "patmolamphy" <patmolamphy_at_dml_yahoo.com>

24. RE: Re: Hot Start Solution
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>

25. Re: Re: Hot Start Solution
From: Cal <thecal_at_dml_optonline.net>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 19 Dec 2005 02:35:29 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Trans problem-violent shake

It is possible you have a leaking engine seal and/or a broken engine
or transmission mount. Jack the car up and start looking. Inspect
epecially carefully the transmission mount in front on the left side
for cracks. Depending on how you drive the car maybe you wiped the
clutch disc out and now you are hitting metal. It can also be that the
clutch disc is not sliding on the splines like it should. The clutch
disc has to "float" on the input shaft. If it is stuck in one spot
that can cause clutch chatter.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
>
> Rob-new or reconditioned?-you tell me, I got the clutch disc from you
> (along with other misc. transmission gaskets/parts) and I'm not quite
> sure if it was new or reconditioned. I bought and installed a new disc
> and pressure plate a little over a year ago. The disc would still be
> 







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Mon, 19 Dec 2005 02:30:18 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Replacing Delorean Steering Rack

From the questions you are asking I am assuming your level of
mechanical skill is low. Replacing the rack is not especially
difficult. It does require the car to be raised up. You cannot use
ramps, you have to remove the front wheels. You may have to replace
the tie rod ends. You first have to determine the rack is REALLY worn.
Other parts can be worn causing you to guess the rack is worn. Check
the universal joints on the input shaft, the bolts that tighten up the
joints on the splines, the tie rod ends, sway bar bushings, and tie
rod ends. If you do not have enough experience to check these parts go
to a good front end shop and have them check it out. They can tell you
what you will need and then you can get it and either let them do the
work or do it yourself and let them finish it up. You *should* have a
four wheel alignment AFTER replacing the rack and any other worn
parts. You can also have worn or bent parts like control arm
bushings,ball joints, etc. Before springing for an expensive part like
a rack you really should thorouly inspect the whole front end suspension.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, mike p <cambpd_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>   Can anyone please tell me the steps involved in replacing the
STEERING  RACK on a Delorean?  Mine is shot, even thought the person
who  sold me the car said it only had 40K miles on it!  
>   
>   How difficult a job is a steering rack replacement, easy, medium 
difficulty, very difficult?  Can it be done standing the car on 
ramps?, on jacks?   Can it be replaced discretely without  having to
replace anything else?  Will the front end need  alignment afterwards.  
>   
>   Thank you for any advice!
>   
>   Sincerely,
>   Mike
>   #5781
>   
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
> http://mail.yahoo.com 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Mon, 19 Dec 2005 02:38:49 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Hot Start Solution

Before rewiring the car try the plug swap when the car is hot and
won't start. If it works then your switch will work. Fixing the hot
start problem is not all that hard. If it is fuel it is only a couple
of things that can cause it. If the plug swap doesn't get you going
then maybe it is electrical. You could have a bad impulse coil in the
distributer.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Scot Stern" <Scotstern_at_dml_a...> wrote:
>
> OK, I have owned my Delorean for well over 10 years and it now has 
> 12,200 miles on it.  I really like the car but I have spent way more 
> than I should have on the proverbial "hot start" problem.  
> 









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Sun, 18 Dec 2005 19:03:13 -0800
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: RE: Odd Temperature Gauge

If you have a local radiator shop they will have an IR temperature gun,
point it at a component and it will tell you its temp without even touching
it. If you drop by they should be so excited to see the car they'll help you
out on the spot.  They can tell you exactly how warm you are running, better
than comparisons to other D's in some ways.  You may have a low temp
otterstat installed,  a low temp or defective thermostat, this will help you
identify any of these...

Tom

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Marv Hein
Sent: Sunday, December 18, 2005 3:33 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Odd Temperature Gauge

This would confirm my suspicions. I hope you're wrong because it 
doesn't look as easy to change a thermostat on this car as on others 
I've changed. 

Interesting also that it also took me two tries to pass my emissions 
test. The car spent awhile idling at the second shop while the guy 
tried to find DeLorean in his system and it passed easily.

Running extra cold might be the only thing that lets me get around 
here in Vegas in the Summer... it buys me some travel time. So 
getting it right for Winter might take its toll later.  As long as I 
stay in heavy traffic in the Winter, the car won't really run cold 
much. What to do, what to do...

I guess the answer might lie in what temperature that 1/8 mark really 
represents.

Marv
#10820


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_c...> wrote:
>
> My D used to behave the same way. Only sitting in traffic would the 
needle 
> pass the 1/4 mark. When I replaced the water pump and thermostat, 
the 
> needle would then go to the 1/4 mark and stay there. This confirmed 
that my 
> old thermostat was sticking open since the temperature gauge was 
untouched.
> 
> You can check for a stuck thermostat by starting the car when it's 
cold and 
> turning on the heater. When the air starts to get warm, the coolant 
inside 
> the engine block is now warm. Turn the car off and check the 
radiator. 
> Before I replaced the thermostat, it would be slightly warm too. 
After I 
> replaced the thermostat, it was cold.
> 
> I also discovered this is why I failed my first emissions test. The 
car 
> couldn't get up to full operating temperature before I took my 
first test. 
> The second time I had to wait in line and temp rose to the 1/4 mark 
and passed.
> 
> Chris
> VIN 4099








To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links



 






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Mon, 19 Dec 2005 03:12:29 -0000
From: "Steve" <p2freak_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Hot Start Solution

Hi.  Here are my 2 cents.

Internal combustion engine depends on combustion process to work.  The
fire/combustion triangle applies here: air, fuel, and heat.  It looks
like you've checked all the variables concerning the fuel system.  Air
process is pretty simple unless the fuel/air mixture is screwed up.

The most likely culprit is heat.  That means the ignition system. 
Ignition coil shot?  ECU computer faulty?  Safety interlocks kicking
in?  Try looking into this area and tell us what you find.    

V/R


Steve 
VIN#04421



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Scot Stern" <Scotstern_at_dml_a...> wrote:
>
> OK, I have owned my Delorean for well over 10 years and it now has 
> 12,200 miles on it.  I really like the car but I have spent way more 
> than I should have on the proverbial "hot start" problem.  
> 
> I took the car to Garden Grove from San Diego no less than 5 times 
> with the exact same problem.  I spent well over $4,000 on the hot 
> start problem and changed the accumulator, various fuel components 
> and even the fuel distributor and still, I have a hot start problem.
> 
> About the only thing that has not been changed are the fuel injectors 
> and I assuming now that this is probably the culprit.  At this point, 
> I am afraid to drive the car as once I drive it, and if I let it sit 
> for more than 30 minutes, it will not restart.
> 
> Today, I purchased a $1.13 part.  I bought a momentary switch and I 
> shall wire it as per the instructions contained in several of the 
> posts to a spot under the left side of my dash.  Hopefully, 
> this "modification" will work and I will once again have a dependable 
> car.
> 
> The instructions are well done and the connector in the fuse 
> compartment was easy to find.  This "mod" should have been either 
> automated by the factory or included as a standard accessory on all 
> Deloreans.
> 
> I know you are going to say to take it to a vendor and have them fix 
> it and my response is that I have, at least 5 times and all that I 
> get is a bill and no solution to this annoying design problem.
> 
> The car is wonderful and I am not a "newbie" to the ownership 
> experience, but this particular issue is clearly a design flaw that 
> prevents this automobile from being a reliable product.
> 
> Any thoughts?
>








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Sun, 18 Dec 2005 21:32:32 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Trans problem-violent shake

Dani, I'm kinda getting in this late but let me ask you: Did you place the
pilot bearing along with the rear main seal and gasket. 
The relined clutch disk we sell are balanced and will increase clutch disk
life over the original due to the increased amount of material.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com

   

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
stainlessilusion
Sent: Sunday, December 18, 2005 4:30 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Trans problem-violent shake

Rob-new or reconditioned?-you tell me, I got the clutch disc from you
(along with other misc. transmission gaskets/parts) and I'm not quite
sure if it was new or reconditioned. I bought and installed a new disc
and pressure plate a little over a year ago. The disc would still be
in there but when my transmission leaked the oil all over the disc,
there was no point in replacing a new pressure plate so I just put in
the new disc from you (Rob). My questions is-why is this suddenly
happening? Why not last month, or the month before (I didn't JUST put
the clutch in and it's just suddenly happening after the work) why
isn't it happening in reverse or second gear and why is my pedal
height the same... These were all reasons I didn't think of the clutch
as a problem. Can a reconditioned clutch have such a short life? I'd
understand if I was racing around burning the clutch all the time
(even then it should last a long time) but that's hardly the case for
me-the hardest it's seens is now when I have to start in second
instead of first. My flywheel seems to be fine, not worn and had no
scoring so I didn't se a reason to get it cut. -----dani

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, <rob_at_dml_p...> wrote:
>
> Mike,
> 
> I agree with your assessment that it's probably the clutch.
Chattering is
> common if the flywheel was not ground to match the new disc. Rebuilt
discs
> sometimes chatter as well. Dani did you replace the pressure plate
and did
> you use a new or reconditioned disc?
> 
> Rob Grady,
> 
> P.J.Grady Inc.67.13.12/194 - Release Date: 12/7/2005
>









To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links



 






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Sun, 18 Dec 2005 22:49:56 EST
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Paint Codes

DBU or DBC 33584 
 
It is in the archives
 
Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Sun, 18 Dec 2005 22:03:24 -0600
From: Chris Murley <qumefox_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Hot Start Solution

Scot Stern wrote:

>About the only thing that has not been changed are the fuel injectors 
>and I assuming now that this is probably the culprit.  At this point, 
>I am afraid to drive the car as once I drive it, and if I let it sit 
>for more than 30 minutes, it will not restart.
>
>
>  
>
If you've replaced the accumulator and the orings in the primary 
pressure regulator in the fuel distributer, then you probably do have 
one or more injectors leaking down.

>I know you are going to say to take it to a vendor and have them fix 
>it and my response is that I have, at least 5 times and all that I 
>get is a bill and no solution to this annoying design problem.
>
>  
>
Well. did they tell you they had fixed it? If not then you should have 
never carried it back to them a second time. If they did tell you it was 
fixed, then after the second time (I can understand  making a wrong 
diagnosis the first, and possibly even second times.. ) You should have 
demanded some type of warranty on the work done. Heck even my company 
(pc/electronics repair business)  gives warranties on repair jobs 
(hardware related anyway) to keep our customers happy. Plus it shows we 
stand behind our work.   To me your story doesn't speak very highly of 
this particular vendor, but on the other hand, it's kind of your own 
fault for continuing to give them your hard earned money for producing 
no results.

Also this particular problem isn't really a design problem .When all the 
fuel system parts are functionion properly, the system works perfectly.  
The problems come, as in any system, really, when individual parts 
making up the system start to fail.  One of the difficulties with the 
K-jet fuel injection though, is that there are a handful of failure 
points that can exhibit the exact same symptoms. Like the hot start 
problem.   But this still doesn't excuse your vendor of continuing to 
charge you for not fixing your problem. Hot start problems might be hard 
to track down (when it's not the accumulator), but I know with my D 
before I started rebuilding it.. It is not at all difficult to test 
for..  While I might not have been a D owner for very long,  I have yet 
to read on this list or in its archives, of anyone saying that they had 
an 'ocassional' hot start problem.  With most i've read, as well as with 
my own car, it's pretty much been a yes/no kind of issue.

-- 

Chris
VIN# 03209
http://badger.brazi.net/index.pl/delorean





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Mon, 19 Dec 2005 04:38:59 -0000
From: "Lawrence Lormand" <lawrencesr_at_dml_netzero.net>
Subject: Re: Free flow air intake is a joke

Well, This is Lawrence vin538 I have been dealing with John for 
about 6 years now & I had a alt. fire at Pigeon Forge & John 
replaced it free of charge right there & then even offered to 
install it. that was the only problem I had & I will always deal 
with this personal Professional vender.
Lawrence
538m,915a,1024m,4873a




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, lordshill_at_dml_a... wrote:
>
>  
> Daniel.. I have no idea as to what your agenda is but I'll vouch 
for John  
> Hervey.  I have the same free flow air intake that you speak so 
badly  about and 
> I had no trouble at all fitting it in.  It works fine and I have  
no trouble 
> with it.  I've bought all sorts of electronic updates and such  
from John and 
> they work perfectly.  You state that he is a "fly by night  
vendor" simply 
> because he sells from his home, or a workshop attached to his  
home.  By your 
> definition Bill Gates or Steve Jobs would be fly-by night  when 
they started out. 
> Why create un necessary overhead to drive prices  up?  I'll give 
you a good 
> example of why John is a go to guy.  A half  shaft on my D bound 
up.  The 
> choices I had was to buy a new one from an  "established" vendor 
($ 600 +/-) or a 
> rebuild from John for about half that if  mine could not be 
rebuilt.  He sent 
> the rebuilt quickly to me and I sent  back to him the old one.  He 
called me a 
> week or so latter to give me the  "bad news" that mine was rebuild 
able and 
> the total transaction cost me  $140.00.  Hmm.. $600 vs $140... 
kinda wonder why 
> I would spend $460  extra?  
>     How about an established vendor who sold me an air  
conditioning 
> compressor and dryer?  25 year old stock that failed after a  few 
weeks (Compressor) 
> and a dryer that was not correct for my vin D.   Still have not 
received a cent 
> back.  John had what I needed for much less  than half the price 
and brand 
> new.  Works excellent.  I've bought from  "established vendors" 
and generally 
> have been very happy with the stuff I bought  and I simply stopped 
buying from 
> the one who ripped me off.  
>     Rubber products.. Would you agree that rubber  deteriorates 
over a period 
> of time?  Most of John's rubber products are  brand new and fit 
perfectly.  
> 25 year old stock or new?  
>  
> No agenda here, as I buy from all but one.  
>  
> Roy
> #0893
>  
>  
> In a message dated 12/18/2005 11:41:42 A.M. Eastern Standard 
Time,  
> mroboto_at_dml_a... writes:
> 
> Regarding the Hervey Free flow air intake:
> I bought it, and it does  not fit properly. I don't recommend it. 
In fact, 
> the first one he sent was  1/2" too tall to be able to close the 
engine cover! 
> He sent a replacement, but  it does not fit the air intake well 
enough to 
> prevent debris from entering the  engine. It stayed on my car for 
an hour before I 
> removed it.
> 
> Another  concern that I have, buying products from a fly by night 
vendor 
> selling from  his house, what if the product damages your car? 
Does the vendor 
> carry product  liabilty insurance? Will they still be there if 
your engine blows, 
> or catches  fire as a result of their product?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Sun, 18 Dec 2005 21:25:08 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Hot Start Solution

Scott, With a CIS tester you can very easily tell how the pressure on the
system is bleeding down and without throwing a lot of parts at it you should
be able to find the culprit. There isn't that many parts that will cause the
problem. Think of a CIS Tester is the pressure measuring device for the fuel
system as a blood pressure strap around your arm they use in the hospital.
Also, Was the accumulator and new one or NOS 25 year old one.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com
   

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Scot Stern
Sent: Sunday, December 18, 2005 4:05 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Hot Start Solution

OK, I have owned my Delorean for well over 10 years and it now has 
12,200 miles on it.  I really like the car but I have spent way more 
than I should have on the proverbial "hot start" problem.  

I took the car to Garden Grove from San Diego no less than 5 times 
with the exact same problem.  I spent well over $4,000 on the hot 
start problem and changed the accumulator, various fuel components 
and even the fuel distributor and still, I have a hot start problem.

About the only thing that has not been changed are the fuel injectors 
and I assuming now that this is probably the culprit.  At this point, 
I am afraid to drive the car as once I drive it, and if I let it sit 
for more than 30 minutes, it will not restart.

Today, I purchased a $1.13 part.  I bought a momentary switch and I 
shall wire it as per the instructions contained in several of the 
posts to a spot under the left side of my dash.  Hopefully, 
this "modification" will work and I will once again have a dependable 
car.

The instructions are well done and the connector in the fuse 
compartment was easy to find.  This "mod" should have been either 
automated by the factory or included as a standard accessory on all 
Deloreans.

I know you are going to say to take it to a vendor and have them fix 
it and my response is that I have, at least 5 times and all that I 
get is a bill and no solution to this annoying design problem.

The car is wonderful and I am not a "newbie" to the ownership 
experience, but this particular issue is clearly a design flaw that 
prevents this automobile from being a reliable product.

Any thoughts?









To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links



 






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Mon, 19 Dec 2005 04:22:48 +0000 GMT
From: "Daniel Deutsch" <mroboto_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: "performance air intake"

My posting was in response to another that asked if anyone had experience with the Hervey air intake. I shared my experience, which was a negative one. 
It was not meant as a personal attack, however, the response that I received was. 

I also posed a common sense question, regarding the support that you would get from a vendor working from his home, in the event the product they sold caused damage to your car.

Instead of responding directly to the questions, I was accused of having a "hidden agenda". If the points that I mentioned in my post were untrue, then why did'nt Mr. Hervey specifically refute them?

To clarify, I did call Mr. Hervey when the product he sent was too big to fit, not allowing the engine compartment to close. His response, "this was the first shipment from this fabricator, and I never actually mounted one on a car yet."

I also noticed he did not respond to the question whether he carries product liabilty insurance. Someone selling electrical products for cars is exposing themselves to tremendous liabilty, in the event that a car burns up. 

I would also like to see any type of evidence that the air intake in question actually improves "performance". 

To further clarify, I did not endorse any other particular vendor in my previous post. Everyone has the right to do business with whoever they choose. I was simply sharing my personal experience with this product and it's vendor. 

Oh, and yes, properly stored rubber can remain supple after 25 years. The one in my wallet still looks great!

Daniel Deutsch
15779 & 3356
























X
Daniel Deutsch
(407) 222-4721

Sent from my Blackberry wireless.
 PLEASE REPLY ALL EMAILS TO:
Mroboto_at_dml_aol.com




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Sun, 18 Dec 2005 22:32:22 -0600
From: Chris Murley <qumefox_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Replacing Delorean Steering Rack

mike p wrote:

>Hi All,
>  Can anyone please tell me the steps involved in replacing the STEERING  RACK on a Delorean?  Mine is shot, even thought the person who  sold me the car said it only had 40K miles on it!  
>  
>  How difficult a job is a steering rack replacement, easy, medium  difficulty, very difficult?  Can it be done standing the car on  ramps?, on jacks?   Can it be replaced discretely without  having to replace anything else?  Will the front end need  alignment afterwards.  
>  
>  Thank you for any advice!
>  
>  Sincerely,
>  Mike
>  #5781
>  
>  
>
Your car might only have 40k miles on it, but you have to remember it's 
25 years old too. that can take more of a toll on seals than miles 
sometimes.  My guess is your problem is the seals on the rack leaked and 
the rack got used with no oil in it and eventually wore out. That or the 
boots tore or cracked and it got debris in it to the same end.

Removing it isn't really a big issue. There are just four bolts actually 
attaching it to the frame. Then you have the tierod ends to remove, and 
also the coupling to the steering shaft.  As far as needing an alignment 
afterwards.. I would say it would be in your best interests. When you 
remove the tierod ends, you can count the threads it takes to unscrew 
them, and make sure you reattach them to the new rack with the same 
number of turns and you should be close to where you were originally 
with the tow in. But if it was me i'd have it checked professionally 
just to make sure you didn't mess up.

As far as getting the rack out.. Well. That might me more of a 
challange. I removed mine from the frame after I had the rest of the 
front suspension removed so it was pretty easy for me. I don't know 
about with everything still intact though. I'm sure one of the vendors 
or other DMLers can chime in with this info.

I also now have a question for the vendors out there. Do any of you 
offer seal kits for the steering rack so we can rebuild them ourselves 
if we want to? I know they're rebuildable or people wanting them for 
cores would be pointless.  I know the rack on my car is good, so I don't 
see the point of shelling out $300 for another one. If none of the 
vendors offer anything i'll just have to hunt around locally to find 
something.  It's just a rack afterall, not exactly odd technology.. and 
my dad swears the whole front suspension and rack looks just like that  
used on mustang II's, and thererfor has been used on many a street rod, 
and as much as I hate to admit it, after looking through alot of his 
hotrod and street rod magizines, I agree with him. The front suspension 
setup on the D is very similar.

-- 

Chris
VIN# 03209
http://badger.brazi.net/index.pl/delorean





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Mon, 19 Dec 2005 07:02:55 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: Question for Toby

Al - Sorry for the late reply - it's been a bit hectic for us.  Our 
lifetime warranty on all parts and kits that are supported by this 
warranty is limited to the original purchaser for as long as they own 
the car that the parts were originally installed in.  That is pretty 
much an industry standard for this type of warranty.  I personally 
have owned Winged1 for just shy of 18 years, so this kind of warranty 
would have been quite handy for me.  Please feel free to contact me if 
you have any questions or concerns.  Merry Christmas, (or, if you 
prefer) Happy Holidays!

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Alan  Roberts" <twodelo2_at_dml_e...> wrote:
>
> Hi Toby, I appreciate your lifetime warranty.  Just one question.  
Whose life.  The part, the car, the owner, yours?
> Al








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Mon, 19 Dec 2005 06:12:43 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Eibach springs/shock set

6068 is fitted with the older style DMCH springs
(before they switched to Eibach), and NOS shocks.

The performance was better than the cut-and-swap
springs, and 20 year old shocks.  We also installed
DMC-GG's adjustable rear control arms at the same
time.  

My opinion on this wont matter much, because the setup
on 6068 is no longer available.  

1860 has stock springs, and 25 year old shocks still
on it...  I have no experience driving any of the
setups currently being discussed.  Sorry!  :)


--- rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com wrote:
<SNIP>
> We had experimented with hybrid installations
> between the two kits and don't
> think it's necessary to advise against the
> combination of our front springs,
> which we still offer BTW, with DMCH shocks or Eibach
> springs with our old
> shock setup. I think Mark Levy is still using that
> combination and may wish
> to offer his input? They were similar enough to be
> interchangeable in my
> opinion. However I would advise against combining


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Mon, 19 Dec 2005 13:14:28 -0000
From: "Dan" <djdanwilson_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Failed emmissions AGAIN

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tom Niemczewski" <tomciodmc_at_dml_p...> wrote:
>
> ...the answer to that would be that whoever 
> wrote the Owner's Handbook must have made a mistake or just forgot to 
> mention that in YOUR book. I say "your" book because mine clearly
states 
> that in the USA 87 should be used and that 91 was for Europe. Maybe
I have a 
> later version of the book that was updated.
> Anyway, in the Owner's Book that I have there is a mention of that
on page 
> 40. Right on top, on the right side of the page. Here's an EXACT
copy of 
> that:
> 
> Fuel Requirements
> USA
> Your De Lorean is designed to operate at factory specifications at
UNLEADED 
> GASOLINE only of at least 87 anti-knock index (R+M/2) (91 research
octane 
> number)

I have a 1983 Owner's Handbook. Probably the last edition printed. You
are correct. It does state that on page 40. I however was referring to
page 39 where is says:

"Fuel Tank          51.6 litres          13.2 gallons
(91 octane unleaded only)"

When I see "91 octane unleaded only" in the handbook of an American
car, I naturally assume they mean U.S. 91. That is a fair and
reasonable assumption. Also consider that your average U.S. car buyer,
like myself, does not know the difference between (R+M/2) & RON, so
what is says on page 40 is over most people's heads. So take what it
says on page 39, not understand what it says on page 40, throw in the
"premium 91 is better than regular 87" marketing influenced
misconception along with the common uninformed thinking that "I'm
driving an expensive sports car, and expensive sports and luxury cars
need to run on 'better' fuel" and you can see why your average
DeLorean consumer would choose U.S. 91 octane to fuel their D.

I now understand the difference between (R+M/2) & RON because I looked
it up on Wikipedia. I also now see that the Owner's Handbook was
poorly written.


> Is this a bulletproof enough source? :)

Yes, but looking back on what I wrote I was apparently not clear
because I was referencing the desire for bulletproof sources on your
claim of deposits building up due to using higher octane fuel than
required that leads to emission issues when I said: "I don't believe
using slightly higher octane than needed based on the engine's
compression ratio will hurt anything..."


> The higher the octane number the less chance for detonation but
> at the same time combustion temperatures are higher.

Okay, so wouldn't higher combustion temps burn off these deposits?
Again, I'm not arguing as much as approaching this from the point of
view of someone with limited knowledge attempting to apply common
sense based on what they know. Also, my previous question still
remains. If you have an engine that has been run for a long time on
higher octane fuels than required, and it now has these deposits built
up that have raised it's compression as a result. Wouldn't suddenly
running it on lower octane cause, or run a higher risk of detonation
since you're now running fuel lower in octane than appropriate for the
engine's "new" raised compression ratio? I mean, if the deposits
raised the engine's compression, wouldn't running a fuel that is not
adequate for the current compression cause knock rather than clean out
the deposits?


> Use 87! Your car will be much better with it in the long run.

Ambient air temp is another factor in detonation. I know this through
experience, not through a text book. Again, I live in Phoenix,
Arizona. One mile above hell, lol. I have a '97 T-bird with a 3.8
liter V6. It's a low compression engine too, and Ford suggests running
it on 87 (R+M/2) in the handbook, but if I do on days between 80 & 115
degrees fahrenheit, or when climbing steep grades at any air temp, the
engine detonates like crazy. I've had four Ford V6s that all did this,
but when you ran them on 89 or 91 (R+M/2), there was no audible knock.
Will the PRV V6 do the same? I don't know, but I also do not want to
find out.


> And the most important thing - 93 IS NOT BETTER than 87.

It is if it prevents detonation in your particular engine regardless
of what a handbook says. I'll take emission fouling deposits over
detonation any day!

By the way, just an FYI. Premium fuel in Colorado is 91 (R+M/2), not
93 (R+M/2).

Dan W.
VIN 16192
AZ-D








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Mon, 19 Dec 2005 09:28:32 -0800
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Free flow air intake is a joke

Daniel,

> Another concern that I have, buying products from a fly by night vendor
> selling from his house, what if the product damages your car? Does the
> vendor carry product liabilty insurance? Will they still be there if your engine
>  blows, or catches fire as a result of their product?

Two things:

1. John Hervey is not a "fly by night" vendor. He is a professional
businessman who has done many great things for this community. Most of
us here support him, including myself. I have had many dealings with
John and all have been positive.

2. It is incredibly discouraging to hear you would go after a vendor
legally. This is a small, specialized community. It is my humble
opinion that you, and only you, are responsible for the products you
put on your car. If you don't understand how a specific product or
modification works and can't personally confirm it's safety through
your own experience, don't install it. If you do so anyway, you are
responsible for it.

I know "legal precedent" says otherwise, but I'm talking about common
sense here. Take responsibility for your own actions, people. Judge
the safety of a product for yourself before using it.

--
- Ryan
http://www.memfrag.com - Store your bookmarks. On every computer.


________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Mon, 19 Dec 2005 10:23:05 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: "performance air intake"

Daniel, 
I will respond, but normally if someone has a problem with the product they
come back to the vendor instead of attacking them and call the names over
the DML. 
The designer did make a change and 2 or 3 went out before it was caught. I
had not checked the 2nd design so that was my fault. But as soon as you
found the problem you told me you had a show and I promptly send you another
( no charge ) for the Florida show  ( and I never heard another word.) 
As you know I needed the defective unit back and after months and about 5 to
6 request and me charging your credit card for the second one because I
thought you were not going to send it back did you send it back and disputed
the card charge. ( You didn't even call me back about that. What was a
business supposed to do.) 
There was a package with a new O Ring and hardware for the air flow meter
supplied with every unit that goes out. I have to assume you put the new O
Ring on the air flow meter for the first one which makes the unit fit tight.
You may even have to put a little WD40 or grease on it. 
( I never heard back about that either. )
There is no hard core data that has been produced nor have I told anyone
that x amount of HP would be produced. On the contrary I tell people it's
more of a cosmetic look and due to the size and volume of air and with the 
K & N or type filter will lessen the air flow restriction and increase the
response to the acceleration.
By the way, What insurance does your company carry.
Also, Rubber and products containing rubber stored in acid paper boxes
corrugated boxes in warehouses that are exposed to humidity heat and cold
won't last long. From what I have seen in some warehouses, that isn't done.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com
 
         

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Daniel Deutsch
Sent: Sunday, December 18, 2005 10:23 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] "performance air intake"

My posting was in response to another that asked if anyone had experience
with the Hervey air intake. I shared my experience, which was a negative
one. 
It was not meant as a personal attack, however, the response that I received
was. 

I also posed a common sense question, regarding the support that you would
get from a vendor working from his home, in the event the product they sold
caused damage to your car.

Instead of responding directly to the questions, I was accused of having a
"hidden agenda". If the points that I mentioned in my post were untrue, then
why did'nt Mr. Hervey specifically refute them?

To clarify, I did call Mr. Hervey when the product he sent was too big to
fit, not allowing the engine compartment to close. His response, "this was
the first shipment from this fabricator, and I never actually mounted one on
a car yet."

I also noticed he did not respond to the question whether he carries product
liabilty insurance. Someone selling electrical products for cars is exposing
themselves to tremendous liabilty, in the event that a car burns up. 

I would also like to see any type of evidence that the air intake in
question actually improves "performance". 

To further clarify, I did not endorse any other particular vendor in my
previous post. Everyone has the right to do business with whoever they
choose. I was simply sharing my personal experience with this product and
it's vendor. 

Oh, and yes, properly stored rubber can remain supple after 25 years. The
one in my wallet still looks great!

Daniel Deutsch
15779 & 3356
























X
Daniel Deutsch
(407) 222-4721

Sent from my Blackberry wireless.
 PLEASE REPLY ALL EMAILS TO:
Mroboto_at_dml_aol.com




To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links



 







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Mon, 19 Dec 2005 15:42:17 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Free flow air intake is a joke

Before bad-mouthing a vendor you should at least give them the chance
to "make it right". They all seem to prefer satified customers and
generally will go "above and beyond" to try to straigthen things out.
It can be difficult to sell you the exact right part from a customer's
not always exact description of a problem. In fact it is amazing the
process works correctly as often as it does. Most customers do not
order by part # from the Parts Manual either so it is up to the vendor
to figure out what the customer NEEDS, not always what he WANTS. Not
always the same thing! If after giving the vendor ample oppertunity to
"make good" then feedback on the DML would be appropriate. It is also
useful if people would share their GOOD experiences too. No vendor can
do it right every time. The difference between a good vendor and a bad
vendor is how they stand behind their products and services. That is
what is remembered long after the lower prices! In some cases a
customer's car is modified and the stock parts they order won't work
because the customer either didn't know about the modifacation or
negelected to mention it to the vendor. In defense of John H there
have been some complaints and he was sick but he seems to work things
out with his customers. Lucky for us Delorean owners, if you don't
like or get a long with a particular vendor at least there are others
to choose from! Some people with other "Orphan" cars don't have ANY
choice!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_B...> wrote:
>
> Daniel:
> 
> On first reading your post I rolled my eyes and though here we go again.
> Flame on. 
> 
> Now, lot of the information in your post was helpful - you tried two
> 









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Mon, 19 Dec 2005 16:59:55 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Question for owners with issues.

Let me start off by saying that I am not intending for this post to be
a flame. It's not an attack, just an honest question for people.

I've been pretty dormant on this, and other lists for a while now, but
I have been reading some of the topics that have recently been
discussed. Two in particular are regarding "valleyrat's" failed smog
test, and Scott's Hot-Start issue. And I honestly have to ask this:

Do any of you own a Workshop Manual?

Allot of questions that I'm seeing on here are uber-simple ones that
should already have been obvious with a workshop manual, and a little
automotive know how.

Now don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to say that everyone here
should be at the level of an ASE mechanic. After all, this is a forum
for DIY'ers seeking help. But if you're asking about an engine running
lean, and you've not yet hit it with a timing light, then let's take a
step back, and even ask how to do that, before tearing your exhaust
system apart to shine a light into the Catalytic Convertor.

Hot Start problems are NOT normal on the DeLorean, or any car that
uses a K-Jetronic fuel injection system. I've seen DeLoreans fire-up
in triple digit heat, and have only taken about a second-long turn of
the key to do so. For a beater Volvo that ends up on some
"Buy-Here/Pay-Here" car lot in the middle of the ghetto, yes, the
Hot-Start relay is needed, because it's assumed that people will NOT
properly maintain these cars in the long run. For a high-end car such
as the DeLorean, it's assumed that proper maintenance will negate the
installation of a band-aid remedy.

Now I know that sounds a bit harsh. And I wouldn't normally be so
frank in my words for someone who is still getting familiar with their
car. But 10 YEARS and you still have this issue?    Even if you're not
handy with a wrench, I can understand. But at the very least, be more
aggressive with your mechanic and demand that the issue you paid for
to be resolved, gets properly taken care of. Especially if you're
already armed with the knowlege of how the affected system(s) function.

Like I say, I've seen DeLoreans fire up in all sorts of weather, and
not have an issue. So this is NOT a "design flaw" with the DeLorean
car itself. If there is any flaw in this case, it's flawed diagnotic
procedure that's been performed on your car by both your mechanic, AND
by you (that "design flaw" statement is insulting to me, and other
owners who's cars operate properly). It's a machine, not a deity.
Money means nothing to it. So throwing cash at the car's issue(s) will
not appease the gremlins inside, and make the issue magicly go away.

You've got two potential issues: 1. Electrical, or 2. Fuel Pressure.
And if it is Fuel Pressure related (as it typicly is), you need to
perform the proper diagnotic procedure to determine it as such. THEN
determine what has to be replaced, and start the diagnosis procedure
over again if it's still not resolved.

I don't care if you buy *new* stuff from John Hervey, or 25 year old
*NOS* parts from DMCH. Age has nothing to do with the fact that some
parts may leave the factory defective. So just because it was replaced
once, doesn't mean that the new part is any better off than the
*defective* one you replaced. Assuming of course that proper
troubleshooting is what determined it to be bad in the first place.

You have 5 components of the Fuel Injection system that are
responsible for maintaining fuel pressure while the system is at rest.
Performing the reccomending system test will help you determine which,
if any, of these components are at fault.

Now I know that this post has sounded a bit mean, but believe me, it's
more of a "tough love" message here. My solution for you isn't to take
the car into a vendor to get the issue fixed. No, I think that it's
high time you hunker down, and bust a few knuckles fixing the issue
yourself. Unless someone doesn't have a cost-prohibative tool (ie.
alignment rack, exhaust gas analyser), or they lack valuable
experience in a particular area (ie. MVAC, or electronics repair) that
requires the use of a vendors services, there is no reason that people
shouldn't be working on their cars themselves. Even if you're tight on
workspace where you can tear the car apart, you need to at least be
able to partially diagnose the issue yourself, and talk it over with
your mechanic.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Mon, 19 Dec 2005 17:14:53 -0000
From: "Mike Bosworth" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Eibach springs/shock set

Hi

Whilst on this subject,I would urge anyone to check their car should 
it looked to have been lowered at anytime in the past, the cut and 
swap method is certainly not the sort of procedure anyone wants to 
carry out or continue to use on their car. On one particular car i 
have recently looked at this had cut shocks on both the front and the 
rear, not a bad job was done on the 'face of it' but with the cut end 
sited at the top over the last ten years or so, they has 
been 'digging' into the top rubber bushings. In one case almost all 
the way through it.

This undoutably caused further strain on the steering rack and 
suspension components in general (with the tie rods in need of 
replacement)
  
Kind Regards

Mike
#2001


> The performance was better than the cut-and-swap
> springs, and 20 year old shocks.  We also installed
> DMC-GG's adjustable rear control arms at the same
> time.  
> 
> My opinion on this wont matter much, because the setup
> on 6068 is no longer available.  
> 
> 1860 has stock springs, and 25 year old shocks still
> on it...  I have no experience driving any of the
> setups currently being discussed.  Sorry!  :)
> 
> 
> --- rob_at_dml_p... wrote:
> <SNIP>
> > We had experimented with hybrid installations
> > between the two kits and don't
> > think it's necessary to advise against the
> > combination of our front springs,
> > which we still offer BTW, with DMCH shocks or Eibach
> > springs with our old
> > shock setup. I think Mark Levy is still using that
> > combination and may wish
> > to offer his input? They were similar enough to be
> > interchangeable in my
> > opinion. However I would advise against combining
> 
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Mon, 19 Dec 2005 17:18:15 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Moving and Changing e-mail adddress.

Next Wednesday will be the last time I'm going to be online for a
while. I'm moving out of state permanently, and will only have
sporadic access to my e-mail. And as a result, I'm also changing my
e-mail address too.

My new address will be dmcvegas(at)gmail.com

I hate using the list to send out messages like this, but I'm still
getting e-mail from others here with my old cox.net address, that will
soon be no more.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Mon, 19 Dec 2005 19:18:18 -0000
From: "Scot Stern" <Scotstern_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Hot Start Solution

John,

This group is really lucky to have people like you as a member.  Your 
assistance is always helpful and you are responsive to both your 
customers and the members that have not yet become your customers.  

My experiences with you have been nothing but favorable and I think 
that you are an oasis in the desert of misinformation.  Thanks!

I rally don't know if the accumulator was a new one or a NOS one.  
Don installed it so I really don't know.  

Any reconmendations of where to get a CIS tester?  I really would 
like to solve this problem but I am terribly frustrated by my 
inability to do so.

On another note, I am not sure if this is the proper venue but is 
there an easy way to change the distributor cap?  I am thinking that 
it might be a good idea to change the distributor cap, coil and 
wires.  I am not sure if the wires were ever changed but I know that 
I did do the plugs.

I would like to change the coil but I really do not want to have to 
change the ECU or the resisters or modify the car to do so.  Any 
thoughts?

Thanks,

Scot Stern
6452 - 12,200 miles

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
>
> Scott, With a CIS tester you can very easily tell how the pressure 
on the
> system is bleeding down and without throwing a lot of parts at it 
you should
> be able to find the culprit. There isn't that many parts that will 
cause the
> problem. Think of a CIS Tester is the pressure measuring device for 
the fuel
> system as a blood pressure strap around your arm they use in the 
hospital.
> Also, Was the accumulator and new one or NOS 25 year old one.
> John Hervey
> www.specialtauto.com
>    
> 
>







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Tue, 20 Dec 2005 00:02:17 -0000
From: "patmolamphy" <patmolamphy_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Is there a block author feature on yahoo,

I'd love to block a few authors.  

For a very non-mechanical person, I have found this site to be a 
resource that I can't do without.  I'm sure many of you started out 
clueless when you first started on this crazy disease called "Delorean 
Owneritis", or others call it a love/hate relationship.

I've always wanted my car, and except for changing oil, I'm learning.  
I do have a shop manual, but everyone here knows there are 
certain "bugs" that can be easily remedied, and rather tear the car 
apart, I've found people here more than willing to help, and I really 
appreciate it, and it's saved me time and money.

Thanks to the experienced posters on this board.

Pat Molamphy

VIN #5252


[MODERATOR'S NOTE: I don't think there is a yahoo feature for blocking an author, but some e-mail programs allow you to create filters that would produce a similar result.]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Mon, 19 Dec 2005 14:42:13 -0800
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Hot Start Solution

I'd love to hear that Auto zone has a compatible tester,  but as far as
I know the easiest route is to pony up $85 or so and buy one from eBay -
search for Jetronic K and you will find several eBay stores stocking
them. 

As far as changing out the cap, wires, and rotor, they can be replaced
by pulling the fuel mixture unit,  it seems a daunting task for but in
the end its not so bad  I can pull or put it in in about 20 minutes now.
With that out you have some, but limited access to the distributor.  All
in all its worth pulling the intake manifold too.  More to do, it will
take more time and the car will be down for a while as you realize that
you need to replace more stuff once you pull it off and find problems in
the "Valley of Death" - but wouldn't you rather find the problems now,
proactively.  

The very best thing you can do (assuming you already have a shop manual,
in which case this is #2) if your shy about this stuff is to pack up
your tools and ratchet set and go to a local junkyard,  Find a Volvo
with a B28 engine and practice removing the fuel mixture unit, the
intake manifold, the cold start valve and tube, all that stuff, on a car
that is not yours and that you don't love.  Then take yours apart,
Start a list, shop the vendors, and clean up a bunch of potential
problems, all while having excellent access to the distributor while the
intake is off.  If you do it with just the mixture unit off and screw up
the clip that holds on the distributor cap, because you didn't have
enough room, you'll be going there anyway.

None of it is Brain Surgery - and you have a great resource here to help
you,  go for it.

Tom
10902

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of Scot Stern
Sent: Monday, December 19, 2005 11:18 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Hot Start Solution

John,

This group is really lucky to have people like you as a member.  Your
assistance is always helpful and you are responsive to both your
customers and the members that have not yet become your customers.  

My experiences with you have been nothing but favorable and I think that
you are an oasis in the desert of misinformation.  Thanks!

I rally don't know if the accumulator was a new one or a NOS one.  
Don installed it so I really don't know.  

Any reconmendations of where to get a CIS tester?  I really would like
to solve this problem but I am terribly frustrated by my inability to do
so.

On another note, I am not sure if this is the proper venue but is there
an easy way to change the distributor cap?  I am thinking that it might
be a good idea to change the distributor cap, coil and wires.  I am not
sure if the wires were ever changed but I know that I did do the plugs.

I would like to change the coil but I really do not want to have to
change the ECU or the resisters or modify the car to do so.  Any
thoughts?

Thanks,

Scot Stern
6452 - 12,200 miles

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
>
> Scott, With a CIS tester you can very easily tell how the pressure
on the
> system is bleeding down and without throwing a lot of parts at it
you should
> be able to find the culprit. There isn't that many parts that will
cause the
> problem. Think of a CIS Tester is the pressure measuring device for
the fuel
> system as a blood pressure strap around your arm they use in the
hospital.
> Also, Was the accumulator and new one or NOS 25 year old one.
> John Hervey
> www.specialtauto.com
>    
> 
>







To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links



 






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Mon, 19 Dec 2005 16:54:21 -0500
From: Cal <thecal_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Hot Start Solution

I've used this tester succesfully after Rich A. recommended it to me. It 
comes with more adapters than you need, but you can figure out the right 
one visually. Only thing you might need extra is some o-rings.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/ItemBrowse/c-10101/s-10101/p-100000160266/mediaCode-ZX/appId-100000160266/Pr-p_CATENTRY_ID:100000160266

-Cal
#3161

Scot Stern wrote:

>John,
>
>This group is really lucky to have people like you as a member.  Your 
>assistance is always helpful and you are responsive to both your 
>customers and the members that have not yet become your customers.  
>
>My experiences with you have been nothing but favorable and I think 
>that you are an oasis in the desert of misinformation.  Thanks!
>
>I rally don't know if the accumulator was a new one or a NOS one.  
>Don installed it so I really don't know.  
>
>Any reconmendations of where to get a CIS tester?  I really would 
>like to solve this problem but I am terribly frustrated by my 
>inability to do so.
>
>On another note, I am not sure if this is the proper venue but is 
>there an easy way to change the distributor cap?  I am thinking that 
>it might be a good idea to change the distributor cap, coil and 
>wires.  I am not sure if the wires were ever changed but I know that 
>I did do the plugs.
>
>I would like to change the coil but I really do not want to have to 
>change the ECU or the resisters or modify the car to do so.  Any 
>thoughts?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Scot Stern
>6452 - 12,200 miles
>
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
>  
>
>>Scott, With a CIS tester you can very easily tell how the pressure 
>>    
>>
>on the
>  
>
>>system is bleeding down and without throwing a lot of parts at it 
>>    
>>
>you should
>  
>
>>be able to find the culprit. There isn't that many parts that will 
>>    
>>
>cause the
>  
>
>>problem. Think of a CIS Tester is the pressure measuring device for 
>>    
>>
>the fuel
>  
>
>>system as a blood pressure strap around your arm they use in the 
>>    
>>
>hospital.
>  
>
>>Also, Was the accumulator and new one or NOS 25 year old one.
>>John Hervey
>>www.specialtauto.com
>>   
>>
>>
>>    
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> 
>
>
>
>  
>





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
    dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 
------------------------------------------------------------------------