From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, December 22, 2005 8:18 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3040

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Failed emmissions AGAIN - really long
From: "Dan" <djdanwilson_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. Pulling my manual transmission to replace main seal
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. My starting issues Re: Question for owners with issues.
From: "Dan" <djdanwilson_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. Impulse box
From: "james" <dmc_12_2180_at_dml_msn.com>

5. Re: Failed CA Emissions UPDATE (still bad)
From: "mingovw" <mingovw_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Re: Happy new owner (passed smog today!)
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>

7. Re: crumple tube.
From: "funkstuf" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>

8. Need One Rear Yokohama AVS Intermediate
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_delorean.com>

9. Re: Re: Failed CA Emissions UPDATE (still bad)
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>

10. Re: Impulse box
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

11. Re: Re: Failed emmissions AGAIN - really long
From: "Tom Niemczewski" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>

12. Front Tires still needed
From: "Cliff Wallace" <thereddog_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

13. Re: Failed CA Emissions UPDATE (still bad)
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_gmail.com>

14. Battery for Delorean
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

15. Re: Question for owners with issues.
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

16. RE: Front Tires still needed
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>

17. Re: Pulling my manual transmission to replace main seal
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

18. Re: Pulling my manual transmission to replace main seal
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

19. Re: Battery for Delorean
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>

20. RE: Front Tires still needed and a cool coincidence
From: Parts Pit Mike <thepartspit_at_dml_rogers.com>

21. RE: Impulse box
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

22. Obligitory joke
From: "mlick27" <mlick27_at_dml_yahoo.com>

23. No More Deloreans?
From: "geoff_ombao" <geoff_ombao_at_dml_yahoo.com>

24. Before the internet
From: doki_pen <doki_pen_at_dml_yahoo.com>

25. Re: Battery for Delorean
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 21 Dec 2005 22:14:10 -0000
From: "Dan" <djdanwilson_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Failed emmissions AGAIN - really long

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tom Niemczewski" <tomciodmc_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> 
> >> Is this a bulletproof enough source? :)
> > Yes, but looking back on what I wrote I was apparently not clear
> <SNIP>
> > Okay, so wouldn't higher combustion temps burn off these deposits?
> ****
> Ok, you would be right in this case... it seems logical, but you are 
> forgetting one thing. In case of the engine the time of the burn is
also 
> important. This means that all gasoline needs to be burned in a 
> predetermined amount of time...
> Makes sense? ;)

Yep


> > Also, my previous question still
> > remains. If you have an engine that has been run for a long time on 
> > higher octane fuels than required, and it now has these deposits 
> > built up that have raised it's compression as a result. Wouldn't 
> > suddenly running it on lower octane cause, or run a higher risk of 
> > detonation
> ****
> YES, You are right. It might cause knock when you switch to
'regular'. It 
> the engine has been run on premium for a long time it will sound
much worst 
> at first. BUT with the raised compression and now faster burning
fuel the 
> deposits will be cleared out of the engine pretty quickly. That is
why I 
> advised to go on a hour long drive at highway speeds. Detonation and
knock 
> usually occur at high loads (heavy acceleration). Cruising at constant 
> highway speed does not put a lot of load on the engine and at the
same time 
> keeps it running at high RPMs. Great exercise for the engine, clears
any 
> deposits, moves a lot of gas through the converter clearing it as well.

How about moving down to 89 first, then 87?


> I would like to congratulate everyone who got this far reading my tech 
> stuff. You must be really TOUGH! ;)

Tom - Just so you know, I was not trying to debate you or say you were wrong. I'm just trying to understand.

Dan W.
VIN 16192
AZ-D








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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 22 Dec 2005 01:13:09 -0000
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Pulling my manual transmission to replace main seal

OK, I am really sick of the leak that is not coming from my oil pan (I recently replaced the oil pan seal), and leaking out onto the frame. Examined the oil pressure sender, and while yes it does leak (a little) it is not enough to run forward and roll off of the frame. 

So I have a couple of questions.
1. I am going to have to drain the fluid ( thinking it is gear oil) from the tranny. What is supposed to be put back in? as well as what grade?
2. Do I need to replace the pilot bearing that the manual states needs to be replaced when the transmission is worked on (since I am only replacing the seal, and not actually taking the thing apart, I am not sure) 3. What is the bolt head size holding on the bell housing?
4. Is there anything else that I need to be wary of? (other than not dropping the thing on my head)


Thanks!
Sean
#3372







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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 22 Dec 2005 01:17:00 -0000
From: "Dan" <djdanwilson_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: My starting issues Re: Question for owners with issues.

I start the car in neutral with my left foot on the dead pedal and my right foot on the brake. I don't touch the accelerator pedal. Last week while looking through the Owner's Handbook again I noticed it says "Press accelerator pedal down approximately on quarter of it's total travel" while cranking. I did try this, and it didn't seem to make any difference.

Dan W.
VIN 16192
AZ-D


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, mike.griese_at_dml_w... wrote:
>
> Dan - what position is the gas pedal in when you start the car?
> 
> --
> Mike
> 
> 
> -------------- Original message from "Dan" <djdanwilson_at_dml_y...>:
-------------- 
> 
> 
> > Here's my version of the "hot start" issue. 
> > 
> > I usually only drive the car on Saturdays, to and from cruise-ins. 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>









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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 22 Dec 2005 02:42:16 -0000
From: "james" <dmc_12_2180_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Impulse box

I have burnt out impulse box, is there a cross referrence to some thing on a Volvo GLE or some other vehicle that i can use to get one thru local auto parts ???









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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 22 Dec 2005 01:02:52 -0000
From: "mingovw" <mingovw_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Failed CA Emissions UPDATE (still bad)

Generally historical vehicles are classified as driven less than 6,000 miles a year. If you can live with that, then go for the historical plates. In Ohio, Michigan, WVa, and PA historical plates make you exempt from smog checks, yearly liscense renewals, and you qualify for a steep discount with insurance.

I did say about checking with your area for any law changes, but when most cars reach 25 years old, most people don't drive them everyday. But there are some that do, and if it bothers you, then keep up the standard as you were. Even here in Ohio, the police have far better things than to concern themselves with logging miles of vehicles with historical plates on them. I'm sure they have even less time in California compared to Ohio. 

If you can sleep better at night by not having historical vehicle plates, then dont't get them.  I can't wait till my April registration to get my historical plates, though my car passes with flying colors on smog (2524, 16634) I'm in it for the insurance discounts, and the removal of annual liscense renewals, at least that is how it is in Ohio. Bummer, if it doesn't apply in CA.

On 16851 I have a hollowed out catalytic converter, but still will get historical plates for the savings. Doesn't bother me in the least, but then again, I come nowhere close to 6,000 miles a year. 
500-1,000 miles if I am lucky anymore. I wouldn't worry about it if you just drive your car for recreational fun, and you have other vehicles for primary transportation.

Joe O'Brien

2524,
16634,
16851










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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 22 Dec 2005 16:00:34 -0000
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Happy new owner (passed smog today!)

That's great!!  It's not even my car and I'm still a little happier this morning when I hear that you found the problem :) I didn't even think of someone lugging the engine during the test. 
Ack, it's so simple...  At least the final fix was inexpensive. :) Just out of curiosity, could you post your final numbers?  For a reference.

Matt Smith


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "valleyrat12" <valleyrat12_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>
> Hello Everyone,
> 
> My car passed smog today with the help of Dan at DMC in Garden Grove. 
> He dialed in the fuel mixture and the car passed with flying colors. 
> It turns out that one of my previous attempts at smog was foiled by an 
> idiot smog tech that did not keep the RPMS high enough at 15mph.
> Delorean owners beware in CA.
> 
> Also, I fixed me cooling fan problem.  After going through the circuit 
> with John H. we managed to isolate a few of the potential problems. It 
> turns out some idiot put the wrong type of relay in the fain relay 
> socket!
> 
> I am now a HAPPY new owner of a Delorean.  Hooray!!
> 
> Nathan
>








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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 22 Dec 2005 16:03:51 -0000
From: "funkstuf" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: crumple tube.

Thank you for the comments.  I was unable to actually find out what happened, but, I agree it looks more like a TRAUMATIC event rather than normal wear and tear.  I do have a new crumple tube and am going to replace that over the next month or so.  
Thanks again for comments.
Dale Funk
4984
941

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_d...> wrote:
>
> Sorry I'm a bit late on this thread. That photo looks VERY
familiar. 
> Have a lok at this
> 
> http://www.delorean.co.uk/DSCN1818.JPG
> 
> This was caused when the car in quesion hit a kerb at 30 mph. It
broke 
> the steering rack as well and took a nice chunk out of the wheel
for 
> good measure. It didn't hit anything head on. This car had a new 
> extension fitted and is back on the road.
> 
> I do have another customer who's saving up for a frame extension
after 
> an altercation with a wall. He demolished it and ended up sitting
on top 
> of a pile of bricks. Being a later car, it already had the frame 
> extension recall and it certainly did its job! The whole
front "cone" on 
> one side is squashed upwards by about 1/2" with a perfect imprint
of the 
> recall plate impressed underneath. It stayed in one piece though. 
Sorry, 
> I didn't take a snap of that one.
> 
> Martin
> DMC Ltd
> www.deloream.co.uk
> 
> Dave Swingle wrote:
> 
> >I'm not sure that the reinforcement kit would have helped this
one. 
> >This looks like what happens when you run into a concrete parking 
> >stop, and hard. This is a long way from normal wear and tear, and
I 
> >don't see how you could get this from bad roads without ripping
the 
> >ball joints out first. 
> >
> >This could also concievebly happen by dragging the car up ramps
onto 
> >a trailer with the front tires flat, but the operator would have
to 
> >have been using a winch and also be somewhat brain-dead at the
time. 
> >
> >Dave Swingle
> >  
> >
>








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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 22 Dec 2005 10:21:32 -0600
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Need One Rear Yokohama AVS Intermediate

I have a client doing the Autorama Show in San Antonio early next year and needs ONE REAR Yokohama AVS Intermediate tire, as new as possible. 
He has one new rear, and needs a match for it.

Reply by email to "james (at) delorean.com".

Thanks!

James Espey
DMC (Texas)
http://www.delorean.com




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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 22 Dec 2005 10:18:30 -0500
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Failed CA Emissions UPDATE (still bad)

In Pennsylvania (at least), you are exempt from emissions inspection in any year that you drive less than 5,000, even if you have a regular plate.  The inspection station simply checks the milage and  
issues a special sticker that says "EXEMPT".   I squeeze under some  
years but not others.

--Pete Lucas
   VIN #06703


On Dec 21, 2005, at 8:02 PM, mingovw wrote:

> Generally historical vehicles are classified as driven less than 6,000 
> miles a year. If you can live with that, then go for the historical 
> plates. In Ohio, Michigan, WVa, and PA historical plates make you 
> exempt from smog checks, yearly liscense renewals, and you qualify for 
> a steep discount with insurance.
>
<<<snip>>>






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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 22 Dec 2005 17:06:11 +0100 (MET)
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: Re: Impulse box

James,

what do you call an impulse box ?
DMCH has all of the ECU's on stock. 

Elvis

> 
> I have burnt out impulse box, is there a cross referrence to some 
> thing on a Volvo GLE or some other vehicle that i can use to get one 
> thru local auto parts ???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 

--
Lust, ein paar Euro nebenbei zu verdienen? Ohne Kosten, ohne Risiko!
Satte Provisionen für GMX Partner: http://www.gmx.net/de/go/partner





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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 22 Dec 2005 17:07:44 +0100
From: "Tom Niemczewski" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>
Subject: Re: Re: Failed emmissions AGAIN - really long

Hello again

<SNIP>
>> Cruising at constant
>> highway speed does not put a lot of load on the engine and at the
> same time
>> keeps it running at high RPMs. Great exercise for the engine, clears
> any
>> deposits, moves a lot of gas through the converter clearing it as well.
> How about moving down to 89 first, then 87?
****
Yes, you can do that. But 89 burns slower than 87. It will definitely be 
better than 93 (or 91) and will help in the process of clearing any deposits 
left by the use of 93 (91). If your engine isn't really bad (a lot of 
deposits and knock) then by switching right away to 87 you will speed up the 
process. If you get serious knock from 87 then using 89 for a while is a 
good idea. One or two full tanks of 89 and then switch to 87 and stay with 
87. And taking the car on a highway is a good idea for every car that only 
sees city driving. Any DeLorean that is only used to go to drive-ins or a 
lot of city driving will be very happy with occasional hour long drive on 
the highway using 87 gas. Just like running is good for your heart, highway 
is good for the engine :)

>> I would like to congratulate everyone who got this far reading my tech
>> stuff. You must be really TOUGH! ;)
> Tom - Just so you know, I was not trying to debate you or say you were
> wrong. I'm just trying to understand.
****
It's ok Dan, I know that. I did not take it as that. Like I said before, 
there is a lot of confusion when it comes to gasoline grades and I am glad I 
can share my knowledge with others... and help some DeLoreans in the process 
:)

If you have any other questions concerning this subject don't hesitate to 
ask. I'd be glad to help you out. I've spent some time working at an 
automotive lab doing research on things like gasoline use, emissions, engine 
oil etc. I'm glad I can share what I have learned there.

Take care

Greetings from snowy Poland!

Tom Niemczewski
vin 6149 (in Poland!)
tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl
www.deloreana.com






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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 22 Dec 2005 17:12:58 -0000
From: "Cliff Wallace" <thereddog_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Front Tires still needed

Hello group.  I'm having a hard time finding a set of front tires for
my  Delorean.  Looking for Goodyear Eagle ST (P195/60/14).  These have
been discontinued for about 10 years. I still have the original NCT's
on the front.  They have plenty of tread, but are warped. 
I've called Coker and Goodyear, but neither can help with it. Coker
doesn't have the license from Goodyear to remanufacture them. It just
figures, you can get tires for a car built in 1910, but not 1981. 
I've also called local Goodyear centers in here in Oklahoma even for a
decent used set, but nothing. Tire Rack and all of those other online
stores don't have it either. I think the only way I'll find a set is
in someone's garage or a place that bought them from Goodyear when
they consolidated them. 
I'd like to get a matching set for all four since my rear tires are
the Eagle ST's.  They only have about 3-4K miles on them.  I can still
see the colored marks on the tread.   
I like them not only because they are raised white letter tires, but
it's the same brand used on the Delorean in Back to the Future.  

Any help would be appreciated. 

Thanks,
Cliff 
10525









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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 22 Dec 2005 17:34:10 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Failed CA Emissions UPDATE (still bad)

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "mingovw" <mingovw_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>
> Generally historical vehicles are classified as driven less than 
> 6,000 miles a year. If you can live with that, then go for the 
> historical plates. In Ohio, Michigan, WVa, and PA historical plates 
> make you exempt from smog checks, yearly liscense renewals, and you 
> qualify for a steep discount with insurance.
> 
> I did say about checking with your area for any law changes, but 
> when most cars reach 25 years old, most people don't drive them 
> everyday. But there are some that do, and if it bothers you, then 
> keep up the standard as you were. Even here in Ohio, the police have 
> far better things than to concern themselves with logging miles of 
> vehicles with historical plates on them. I'm sure they have even 
> less time in California compared to Ohio.
<SNIP>

While the police and the DMV/PS may not actively enforce the milage
limitations, your insurance company will certainly care. If you are
involved in an accident, the car is stolen, or you have to file any
sort of claim on the car, the insurance company is going to check the
milage. And if you've exceeded it, then they don't have to pay on the
claim. And in some states, the limit for said vehicles (like Nevada)
is only 2,500 miles a year.

Collector/limited use insurance also has other limitations too.
According to Hagarty, the vehicle must be stored in a locked garage,
you cannot use the vehicle to commute it, the vechicle cannot be
parked out in the open, and no one under 25 may have access to the
car. So be aware that while collector car insurance may certainly fit
your budget, there are other aspects of it that may clash with your
driving routines.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"








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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 22 Dec 2005 18:31:26 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Battery for Delorean

I have seen advice on getting a battery, where people recommend an 
Optima similar to what's in a 98 Chevy Suburban - a Group 78 side 
terminal type.  I live in MA, and not sure where Optima's are sold.  I 
went to an Autozone, and all they had were "Dura..something" 
batteries.  I looked up the Suburban in that guide, and not sure which 
98 version Suburban I need to match it to (cylinders, model, etc.).  
Any help to find the right battery in MA would be appreciated.  Thanks.








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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 22 Dec 2005 17:52:08 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Question for owners with issues.

While troubleshooting any emission issue with the DeLorean engine I 
think it would be useful to remember that a properly tuned mechanically 
sound DeLorean engine is very clean burning, even by today's standards.

Therefore, in diagnosis, rather than focusing on clean burn science, 
even though such information can be extremely helpful in the diagnosis, 
I would concentrate on specs. If the engine is failing emission testing 
something is out of spec - that's it - period. Finding the failing spec 
adjustment or failing component is a matter of testing with the proper 
equipment in the proper sequence.

If the engine or it's operating systems have been modified in any way - 
then the application of clean burn science may be essential to 
achieving a clean burning engine. A modified engine or operating system 
is by any definition out of spec.

So, to me, solving the emission issue is the task of finding what is 
out of spec, which can be, without the proper tools and applying the 
proper technique, extremely difficult and frustrating. And, as we have 
seen, guessing often results in numerous parts replacements 
and "adjustments" with limited results. If the engine is in fact out of 
spec, one may be able to apply clean burn science to compensate - but 
then - one must still know what is out of spec.

Harold McElraft - 3354 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_g...> wrote:
>
> No problem. All we need to do here is a little bit of proper 
> troubleshooting, and I'm sure that your issue is easily resolvable. 
> In the process however, forgive me if this post starts to sound a bit 
> juvenile. It's not my intention. I just want to explain things of how 
> I would troubleshoot your issue, in as simple of terms as possible...
> 








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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 22 Dec 2005 10:33:38 -0800
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: RE: Front Tires still needed

Cliff:

I just spent the morning at the tire shop putting new rubber under
10902, which just went back on the road last week,  I went with Goodrich
TA Radials, but that's not my point.

The tires that I took off were installed in May of 1993, and they only
had 300 miles on them.  I intend to drive this car occasionally, and
there is no way I would put myself or my wife in a car with tires that
old, even though they looked fine.  Now the tires did develop a flat
spot each from sitting for a long time, but it was the UV exposure, dry
rot, or other degradation in the rubber, seen or unseen that I was
worried about.

I have had a "perfectly good" older tire blow out on the freeway on
another car years ago - no perceptible damage or warnings, just old.  I
was going about 65 at the time and I consider myself fortunate it was on
the rear, not the front.

I know a lot of concours owners have original tires, but I cannot
believe they drive on them regularly.  My understanding in general is
that show car owners who want vintage tires generally trailer the car or
have them on a separate set of wheels and install them once on location.
I would really rethink using vintage tires.  

You will note that a recurring theme on John Hervey's site is that he
tries to sell new products, not NOS when it comes to fuel accumulators
or bushings or the like because the rubber in those items, in his
opinion, may not be up to snuff.  I would much rather lose a fuel
accumulator at 60 miles per hour than a tire.

If you are looking for tires for show purposes, then you will likely
need to get them from a small shop or private entity.  Chain stores are
not going to want to be involved with getting you those tires from a
liability point of view.

My $.02,  but when it comes to safety I'd rather be a killjoy than keep
quiet.

Drive safe.

Tom
#10902

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of Cliff Wallace
Sent: Thursday, December 22, 2005 9:13 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Front Tires still needed

Hello group.  I'm having a hard time finding a set of front tires for my
Delorean.  Looking for Goodyear Eagle ST (P195/60/14).  These have been
discontinued for about 10 years. I still have the original NCT's on the
front.  They have plenty of tread, but are warped. 
I've called Coker and Goodyear, but neither can help with it. Coker
doesn't have the license from Goodyear to remanufacture them. It just
figures, you can get tires for a car built in 1910, but not 1981. 
I've also called local Goodyear centers in here in Oklahoma even for a
decent used set, but nothing. Tire Rack and all of those other online
stores don't have it either. I think the only way I'll find a set is in
someone's garage or a place that bought them from Goodyear when they
consolidated them. 
I'd like to get a matching set for all four since my rear tires are the
Eagle ST's.  They only have about 3-4K miles on them.  I can still
see the colored marks on the tread.   
I like them not only because they are raised white letter tires, but
it's the same brand used on the Delorean in Back to the Future.  

Any help would be appreciated. 

Thanks,
Cliff
10525









To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links



 






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Thu, 22 Dec 2005 11:18:56 -0800
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Pulling my manual transmission to replace main seal

On 12/21/05, seanhagan <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> 1. I am going to have to drain the fluid ( thinking it is gear oil)
> from the tranny. What is supposed to be put back in? as well as what
> grade?

You don't have to drain the fluid. Just pull the transmission; the
fluid will stay in. Unless you just need to change it, in which case I
recommend the Valvoline synthetic gear oil. I think it's 75-90, but
don't quote me on that.

> 2. Do I need to replace the pilot bearing that the manual states
> needs to be replaced when the transmission is worked on (since I am
> only replacing the seal, and not actually taking the thing apart, I
> am not sure)

Not sure, but while you're in there: Why not? Pulling the tranny isn't
exactly a bucket of fun. If you're going to do it, you might as well
replace a few extra parts so you don't find yourself pulling it again
6 months from now. While you're at it, how long as it been since you
changed your clutch? You might consider that, too.

> 3. What is the bolt head size holding on the bell housing?

Can't recall off-hand but once you get under there it will take all of
3 seconds to figure out.

> 4. Is there anything else that I need to be wary of? (other than not
> dropping the thing on my head)

Make sure you're using a real transmission jack. It will save you a
ton of headache (perhaps literally). Don't delude yourself into
thinking your floor jack, however nice, will suffice. It might, but at
a huge expense in time, not to mention safety. A real tranny jack will
make quick(er) work of this job. I bought a little one for under $50
at Harbor Freight.

--
- Ryan
http://www.memfrag.com - Store your bookmarks. On every computer.


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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 22 Dec 2005 19:42:01 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Pulling my manual transmission to replace main seal

This would be a good time to invest in a service manual.  It has a procedure
for removing the grearbox.  It is very handy for keeping track of all of the 
stuff you need to disconnect/reconnect when servicing the gearbox.

The gearbox will not "just drop out".  You need to move it away from the
engine far enough to disengage the input shaft from the crankshaft and
clutch before it can be lowered.  It needs to move straight back (er, forward). 
 
There is no need to remove the gear oil before you start.

The pilot bearing is outside of the gearbox.  It is inserted into 
the end of the crankshaft and receives the free end of the input 
shaft when the gearbox is reinstalled.  They are cheap and easy 
to replace.

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>: -------------- 


> OK, I am really sick of the leak that is not coming from my oil pan 
> (I recently replaced the oil pan seal), and leaking out onto the 
> frame. Examined the oil pressure sender, and while yes it does leak 
> (a little) it is not enough to run forward and roll off of the 
> frame. 
> 
> So I have a couple of questions. 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 22 Dec 2005 20:43:31 -0000
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Battery for Delorean

I was able to get an Optima side terminal battery from my Interstate
battery supplier.  It was great because he had one on the truck so I
could check to make sure it fit first.
The battery you're looking for will fit most GM products.  (Olds,
Pontiac, Chevy, GMC, Saturn?, Vette, Buick, Caddy, etc.)
Checker, Schucks, or Kragen have a different brand of Gell cell
battery that will work.  NAPA, Carquest, Action Auto parts, really any
parts house should be able to find a Group 78 Gell cell for you.  As
long as you can find someone working there who knows how to find parts
without an application.
Just tell them you want a group 78 gell cell, that should do it.
In case you need it, it fits, among many other things, a 98 Chevy 4x2
1500 pickup with a 4.3L V6.

Matt Smith



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_f...> wrote:
>
> I have seen advice on getting a battery, where people recommend an 
> Optima similar to what's in a 98 Chevy Suburban - a Group 78 side 
> terminal type.  I live in MA, and not sure where Optima's are sold.  I 
> went to an Autozone, and all they had were "Dura..something" 
> batteries.  I looked up the Suburban in that guide, and not sure which 
> 98 version Suburban I need to match it to (cylinders, model, etc.).  
> Any help to find the right battery in MA would be appreciated.  Thanks.
>








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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 22 Dec 2005 15:07:10 -0500 (EST)
From: Parts Pit Mike <thepartspit_at_dml_rogers.com>
Subject: RE: Front Tires still needed and a cool coincidence

Very interesting point Tom,
   
  Having just got 17076 at the beginning of November this year, the tires are still the originals from 1983 with somewhat less than 23,000kms on them. 
   
  Next spring I will be replacing them as I intend to drive the car some distances to shows and at speed.
   
  Just a note to you BTTF fans.... my daughter noticed this next point. I brought my car home November 5, 2005 -- fifty years to the day Marty McFly took the Delorean on its most famous ride.
   
  Cool.
   
  "Parts Pit" Mike


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 22 Dec 2005 15:03:48 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Impulse box

James, What do you mean by the impulse box. No one except Delorean parts
suppliers will have something like that. Keep in mind your dealing with a
car 25 years old. The parts houses have to stock what moves.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
james
Sent: Wednesday, December 21, 2005 8:42 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Impulse box

I have burnt out impulse box, is there a cross referrence to some 
thing on a Volvo GLE or some other vehicle that i can use to get one 
thru local auto parts ???









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moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 22 Dec 2005 20:15:09 -0000
From: "mlick27" <mlick27_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Obligitory joke

News item:
The International Earth Rotation and Reference Systems Service (IERS)
 announced in July that a leap second
(http://maia.usno.navy.mil/eo/leapsec.html) would be inserted at the
end of 2005 in order to account for the deceleration of the earth's
rotation. 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leap_second

Oblig BTTF Joke:
Great, now my flux capacitor is going to be all screwed up.  

Old DeLorean ref:
Remember, go to the DMCH and type in part number 18851985.  Probably
NOS and out of stock.  Same goes for 19852015 :)

-- Marty









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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 22 Dec 2005 21:56:11 -0000
From: "geoff_ombao" <geoff_ombao_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: No More Deloreans?

Has anyone else noticed that there haven't been any Deloreans listed on ebaymotors for 
the past few days. First time I've seen that marketplace run dry since I started shopping for 
mine a bit less than a year ago.

Just an observation.







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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 22 Dec 2005 14:18:09 -0800 (PST)
From: doki_pen <doki_pen_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Before the internet

What did some of you long time owners do for assistance and parts availability before you could use the internet as a resource?
 
Also, do you think obscure cars, such as the delorean, would face less ownership if it weren't for the knowledge that help and parts availability is only a button click away?
 
Growing up in the 80's and 90's, I wasn't in the financial position to own a delorean until two years ago.  I had been following the mailing lists and already knew who PJ Grady was when owning one of these cars was but a dream.  Personally, the decision to puchase one, especially one needing as much work as mine did, was made much easier knowing all these resources were made so readily available.
 
Jon
#3215




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Message: 25
Date: Thu, 22 Dec 2005 22:58:51 -0000
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Battery for Delorean

Sears carries all three types of Optima batteries, I would recommend
the red top for the 3 year no questions asked warranty, the others are
only one year.  But, I do have to say this, I have a red top in 4045
and have has to replace it 3 times so far, though the 3rd battery
seems to be holding up.  A standard type 78 battery from anyone would
be a whole lot cheaper, and they also have warranties.

Bernie

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_f...> wrote:
>
> I have seen advice on getting a battery, where people recommend an 
> Optima similar to what's in a 98 Chevy Suburban - a Group 78 side 
> terminal type.  I live in MA, and not sure where Optima's are sold.  I 
> went to an Autozone, and all they had were "Dura..something" 
> batteries.  I looked up the Suburban in that guide, and not sure which 
> 98 version Suburban I need to match it to (cylinders, model, etc.).  
> Any help to find the right battery in MA would be appreciated.  Thanks.
>









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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