From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, December 30, 2005 3:05 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3051

There are 24 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Does anyone else have one of these? Blank VIN Plate (dash)
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

2. Vin 3323 Restoration - Need a Little Help!
From: "brandelorean" <brandelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. lower engine compartment cover
From: "lordshill1" <lordshill_at_dml_aol.com>

4. RE: IRS Auction of VIN 6413
From: "Emory Lehman" <elehman3_at_dml_earthlink.net>

5. Re: AutoWeek Delorean Article.
From: "Louie" <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>

6. Re: Raising the seat height
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>

7. Re: Raising the seat height
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

8. Re: Mystery Coolant leak found
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

9. Re: Re: Raising the seat height
From: <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

10. Water pump and internal water pipe removal
From: "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_gmail.com>

11. Loud Clicking Noise From Engine Area, Car Wont Start
From: "alistairmccann" <pilot25dmc_at_dml_o2.co.uk>

12. Re: Water pump and internal water pipe removal
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

13. Re: Loud Clicking Noise From Engine Area, Car Wont Start
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

14. Re: Loud Clicking Noise From Engine Area, Car Wont Start
From: "Tom Niemczewski" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>

15. Re: Does anyone else have one of these? Blank VIN Plate (dash)
From: dmc82_at_dml_comcast.net

16. Re: Loud Clicking Noise From Engine Area, Car Wont Start
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

17. Re: Loud Clicking Noise From Engine Area, Car Wont Start
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

18. Re: Loud Clicking Noise From Engine Area, Car Wont Start
From: "dmc_5180" <dmc_5180_at_dml_yahoo.com>

19. Re: AutoWeek Delorean Article.
From: "Dan" <djdanwilson_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. Re: Re: oil pan gasket removal
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

21. Re: Water pump and internal water pipe removal
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

22. '82 for sale
From: "Matt Carpenter" <mattdcarpenter_at_dml_msn.com>

23. Re: Re: Check out the 72 BMW Gullwing
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

24. Re: Does anyone else have one of these? Blank VIN Plate (dash)
From: Christopher Mack <christopher_mack_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 29 Dec 2005 18:46:25 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: Does anyone else have one of these? Blank VIN Plate (dash)

Cecil,

If you are referring to the SS door VIN plates, yes, you are correct that there are quite a few of these blanks floating around.  However, this VIN tag discussion was focusing on the early SS dash plates, with a DMC logo and the factory details printed on the plate, with an outlined location for the VIN.
These appear to be used on less than 90 early 500 series cars.

Later,
Rich W.
 

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, dmc82_at_dml_c... wrote:
>
> I haven't read all of this thread however I have several of the
blank VIN plates so I don't think those are rare.
> 
> Cecil Longwisch
> 
> 
> 
> 
> any case, feel free to continue the discussion of it. I have
> > talked to Ken K and the blank VIN plate will for sure be at DCS. 
> > 
> > -Patrick C. 
> > VIN 1880









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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 29 Dec 2005 19:07:48 -0000
From: "brandelorean" <brandelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Vin 3323 Restoration - Need a Little Help!

Hey Everyone,

Haven't posted in quite a while but have been extremely busy.  Well I 
am looking everwhere for a 1990 Eagle Premier Main Wiring Harness from 
the ECU to the Engine Wiring Harness.  

If anyone knows where I might be able to find a 1990 Eagle Premier 
(Have checked all my local salvage yards), please contact me _at_dml_ 
Brandelorean(AT)yahoo.com

I'll be sure to pay for the part if you can pull it off a salvage 
vehicle and some to you for your time as well.  

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Brandon
Vin 3323








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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 29 Dec 2005 20:21:03 -0000
From: "lordshill1" <lordshill_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: lower engine compartment cover

Hello to all...

     I'm looking for a lower engine compartment cover.  Mine has a 
break in the center rib almost to the lock end.  I do not need the 
screens and vents as mine are in good shape.  Please contact me off 
line if you have same available.

Roy
0893







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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 29 Dec 2005 14:31:02 -0600
From: "Emory Lehman" <elehman3_at_dml_earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: IRS Auction of VIN 6413

Have you looked at the IRS web site?  It has the VIN # of: SCEDT26TXD006413
with an odometer reading of: 34,222 miles.  

Here is the web site with other info on other cars that are up for auction:

http://www.treas.gov/auctions/irs/fwtx_auto_1105.htm

Enjoy!!

Emory Lehman
(Future owner)


> -----Original Message-----
> From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
> Of birdwell77095
> Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2005 1:55 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] IRS Auction of VIN 6413
> 
> If anyone is going to the IRS auction in January in Dallas where VIN
> 6413 will be sold, please let me know the transmission type, interior
> color and manufacture date.
> 
> Shannon
> 
> VIN 16113
> 




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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 29 Dec 2005 20:35:22 -0000
From: "Louie" <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: AutoWeek Delorean Article.

It's interesting that Autoweek has made this comparison of the 
DeLorean to the Boss 302 Mustang, because I've made it a thousand 
times. My Dad has owned his '69 Boss 302 since 1973, when it was 
traded in at my Grandpa's Ford dealership. I have to say I really 
doubt there are less Boss 302's around than DeLoreans from my 
experience though. I've been a part of Mustang clubs and the classic 
car hobby in general all my life because of my Dad's Boss, and I've 
come across countless Boss Mustangs. I've only ever bumped into ONE 
DeLorean at a car show without my knowledge that the car would be 
there, but Boss's seem to pop up about everywhere (I saw yet another 
one in someone's driveway last week). Like the DeLorean, Boss 302's 
were pretty much collector cars right out of the box, and they seem 
to have a higher survival rate than many collectible cars.

If it isn't the rarity difference, then what really makes the Boss 
more valuable than the DeLorean then? It certainly isn't their 
handling or braking... the Boss is downright frightening in those 
departments, I know first hand lol. And critics always moan about 
the DeLorean's build quality and reliability... let me tell you the 
Boss's are less than stellar in those departments too. Boss's are 
loud, crude, ride hard, don't brake, or corner worth a darn, break 
easily and often, yet are still worth about twice as much as 
DeLoreans are (average retail now is $42k+ for a Boss, which 
originally stickered for $3.5k new).

It's really a combination of things which make the Boss such a hot 
collectible. First and foremost... racing. They barnstormed the 
Trans Am series in 1969 and 1970, pretty much slaughtering the 
competition and really turned the racing world upside down. The cars 
were really just built for homologation purposes, so that Ford could 
race at Trans Am. This makes the Boss *different from the start*... 
the DeLorean, though a unique automobile, was really in essence just 
a standard production model... it had no fancy varients (except the 
handful of Legend cars, which DO fetch Boss prices and THEN SOME!).

I think even more importantly, the Boss was important to a 
generation which now has LOTS of disposable cash, the baby boomers. 
Many people from that generation want the car, and can and DO pay 
big bucks to acquire one. From what I've seen the baby boomers are 
largely disinterested in the DeLorean... they're all about Muscle 
Cars for the most part. Does that mean all hope is lost for the 
DeLorean? Not hardly! Kids who grew up in the '80s with the lore of 
JZD, and more importantly, Back To The Future, are now in their 20s 
and 30s. They're starting to have enough money of their own to buy 
THEIR dream car, the DeLorean. I'm a perfect example... I'm 23 and 
have owned not one, but TWO DeLoreans. My guess is that DeLorean 
values will only continue to rise (especially over the next 10 
years), but Boss 302 values will plateu, and eventually begin to 
fall off as the generation that cherishes that car begins to age 
further and die off.

And there is my little thesis on collector car values :-). I told 
you guys I wouldn't totally disappear after I sold DeLorean #2!

Louie Golden
VIN: plotting on how to acquire DeLorean #3 :-)







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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 29 Dec 2005 20:13:24 -0000
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>
Subject: Re: Raising the seat height

Hello.

Yup, Rob's right.  The studs would be more prone to bending in a 
collision using washers to space up the seat.  

On the other hand, only the force generated by the chair decelerating 
in the collision would be felt by these studs, so it may be that they 
would not break until the deceleration became so abrubt the person in 
the seat was going to be killed anyway.  We won't know for sure 
without a test.  Any volunteers?  I'll pass, I hope.

I second Rob's idea of shimming the track, to lower the stress 
concentration on the fiberglass.  It seems a good idea.

Rick Gendreau


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Rob Grady" <rob_at_dml_p...> wrote:
>
> Dave & John,
> 
> That is correct but I would not suggest it as raising the tracks 
like that
> could make the mounting studs more prone to bending or breaking in a
> collision. The lack of support would increase bending leverage and 
give the
> seat more built-in inertia in a crash IMHO. Any of the engineers on 
the list
> with theoretical experience in bending force loads and leverage 
effects care
> to confirm or refute this? In any case not many shops would want to 
take on
> the potential liability of doing any modifications to the mounting 
of your
> seats but you're free to do so on your own. If you do raise the 
seat I'd
> suggest at least shimming the tracks so they fully contact the 
floor but I'm
> not recommending it....OK? It's something you might consider anyway.
> 
> Rob Grady,
> 
> P.J.Grady Inc.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On 
Behalf Of
> Dave Swingle
> Sent: Wednesday, December 28, 2005 1:57 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Re: Raising the seat height
> 
> The quick and dirty way would be to stack some washers under the 
seat 
> on the mounting bolts. If you look under the car you'll see four 
nuts
>








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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 29 Dec 2005 21:15:38 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Raising the seat height

You are forgetting the possability of a rear end collison. In such a
collision the forces leveraging on the seat back with all of the
occupant's weight will put large loads on the front studs, nuts, and
washers trying to pull them through the fiberglass and the rear ones
down through the floor. In a front end collison or a side impact the
forces on the seat are negligable. Using large washers and/or shims
will spread the load out.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "twinenginedmc12"
<twinenginedmc12_at_dml_g...> wrote:
>
> Hello.
> 
> Yup, Rob's right.  The studs would be more prone to bending in a 
> collision using washers to space up the seat.  
> 
> On the other hand, only the force generated by the chair decelerating 
> in the collision would be felt by these studs, so it may be that they 
> w







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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 29 Dec 2005 21:09:28 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Mystery Coolant leak found

I have never actually replaced a freeze-out (Welch Plug) in a
Delorean. This is the technique generaly used for these plugs. You're
right, if there is no step in the hole then it is too easy to knock it
right through. Sides or no sides it locks tighter when you can hit it
in the center. Generaly you see the plugs with sides used when there
is no step. You hit it in till it is flush with the edge of the block.
The problem becomes (if there is no step) if you hit it again to
expand it you could knock it in further. When you buy the freeze-out
plugs I am sure the vendor you buy them from can tell you how best to
install them.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmc_5180" <dmc_5180_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>
> Dave,
> 
> I am curious why you would install the freeze plugs in backwards
from the factory. I 
> usaually reserve that method for saucer shaped welch plugs that don't h








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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 29 Dec 2005 16:50:50 -0600
From: <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Raising the seat height

I'd guess there's a pretty good chance none of us are physicists so deciding 
whether  the studs have a higher or lower shear capacity than the fiber 
glass floor's ability to withstand the studs trying to rip themselves out 
first is really just food for conversation. The Delorean seat belts are 
anchored independent of the seat itself and hopefully would reign in the 
load in the event of a frontal crash. There isn't much room for the seat to go backward in a rear end crash. With that in mind I'm still comfortable 
adjusting the seat, with-in reason, by using washers for shims.

Bruce Benson


> You are forgetting the possability of a rear end collison. In such a
> collision the forces leveraging on the seat back with all of the
> occupant's weight will put large loads on the front studs, nuts, and
> washers trying to pull them through the fiberglass and the rear ones
> down through the floor. In a front end collison or a side impact the
> forces on the seat are negligable. Using large washers and/or shims
> will spread the load out.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757





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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 29 Dec 2005 23:14:55 -0000
From: "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Water pump and internal water pipe removal

I am in the process of replacing my all-original cooling system. I 
have been soaking the bolts for the water pipe and water pump with 
penetrating oil for a few days. Tomorrow morning I am going to get a 
propane torch for heating the bolts before removing. I don't have much 
experience with this sort of thing and was just looking for any tips 
or advice on how to remove these bolts without breaking them. Also, if 
they do happen to break, I've heard it's a real pain to drill them 
out. Never done that before either...any helpful pointers on the 
entire process would be greatly appreciated! Thanks everyone and Happy 
upcoming New Year!

Dave
#5968







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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 29 Dec 2005 23:44:09 -0000
From: "alistairmccann" <pilot25dmc_at_dml_o2.co.uk>
Subject: Loud Clicking Noise From Engine Area, Car Wont Start

Tried starting the car up tonight for its weekly 15 minutes of running but when I turned on 
the ignition to start the car there was a loud clicking noise and all the dash lights went dim 
and nothing happened - I have a feeling that the stater is stuck or broken....Is this the case 
and how hard is it to fix???

An ideas.

Alistair McCann
Pilot 25







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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 29 Dec 2005 23:47:20 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Water pump and internal water pipe removal

Start with a 1/4" drive ratchet because you shouldb't be able to snap 
them with that. DOn't go heating them till you've tried that as heating 
them will make the ally of the block brittle

Martin

usndmc wrote:

>I am in the process of replacing my all-original cooling system. I 
>have been soaking the bolts for the water pipe and water pump with 
>penetrating oil for a few days. Tomorrow morning I am going to get a 
>propane torch for heating the bolts before removing. I don't have much 
>experience with this sort of thing and was just looking for any tips 
>or advice on how to remove these bolts without breaking them. Also, if 
>they do happen to break, I've heard it's a real pain to drill them 
>out. Never done that before either...any helpful pointers on the 
>entire process would be greatly appreciated! Thanks everyone and Happy 
>upcoming New Year!
>
>Dave
>#5968
>
>  
>






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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 29 Dec 2005 23:51:52 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Loud Clicking Noise From Engine Area, Car Wont Start

Starter solenoid, the small round box mounted on top of the starter. 
Replace it or open it up and replace the copper contactor. This is 
pretty common on "start it once a week" cars because you usually have 
to crank it more than normal. 

But first just make sure the battery is good. 

Dave (just lets the car sleep all winter)


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "alistairmccann" <pilot25dmc_at_dml_o...> 
wrote:
>
> Tried starting the car up tonight for its weekly 15 minutes of 
running but when I turned on 
> the ignition to start the car there was a loud clicking noise and 
all the dash lights went dim 
> and nothing happened - I have a feeling that the stater is stuck or 
broken....Is this the case 
> and how hard is it to fix???
> 
> An ideas.
> 
> Alistair McCann
> Pilot 25
>









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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 30 Dec 2005 01:17:26 +0100
From: "Tom Niemczewski" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>
Subject: Re: Loud Clicking Noise From Engine Area, Car Wont Start

Hello Alistair

Before you go into pulling the starter out of the car check and clean the 
battery connections. First start with the cables at the battery itself and 
then move on to clean the ground where the black battery cable is bolted to 
the frame. It's on the right side of the car right where the trailing arm 
bolt is.
When you engage the starter the large load on the electrical system causes 
overload on the weak and dirty connections. That actually opens the circuit 
and that is why all the lights dim.
I give it a 99% that when you clean the connections everything will be back 
to normal.
Good luck

Greetings from snowy Poland!

Tom Niemczewski
vin 6149 (in Poland!)
tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl
www.deloreana.com <- home of the DeLorean convex mirrors


----- Original Message ----- 
> Tried starting the car up tonight for its weekly 15 minutes of running but 
> when I turned on
> the ignition to start the car there was a loud clicking noise and all the 
> dash lights went dim
> and nothing happened - I have a feeling that the stater is stuck or 
> broken....Is this the case
> and how hard is it to fix???
>
> An ideas.
>
> Alistair McCann
> Pilot 25






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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 29 Dec 2005 23:54:44 +0000
From: dmc82_at_dml_comcast.net
Subject: Re: Does anyone else have one of these? Blank VIN Plate (dash)

yes, I was mistaken as I have the door ones.
That will teach me to read every tenth email!


-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net> 

> Cecil, 
> 
> If you are referring to the SS door VIN plates, yes, you are 
> correct that there are quite a few of these blanks floating 
> around. However, this VIN tag discussion was focusing on the 
> early SS dash plates, with a DMC logo and the factory details 
> printed on the plate, with an outlined location for the VIN. 
> These appear to be used on less than 90 early 500 series cars. 
> 
> Later, 
> Rich W. 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, dmc82_at_dml_c... wrote: 
> > 
> > I haven't read all of this thread however I have several of the 
> blank VIN plates so I don't think those are rare. 
> > 
> > Cecil Longwisch 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > any case, feel free to continue the discussion of it. I have 
> > > talked to Ken K and the blank VIN plate will for sure be at DCS. 




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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 29 Dec 2005 23:54:35 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Loud Clicking Noise From Engine Area, Car Wont Start

 Being Pilot 25, I bet you've never had the starter circuit update. My 
car (#1458) suffered too.

http://www.dmcnews.com/bulletins/ST-05-2.82.html

Either that or dead/duff battery, loose connection on it or dodgy ground 
strap from engine to chassis.

Martin

alistairmccann wrote:

>Tried starting the car up tonight for its weekly 15 minutes of running but when I turned on 
>the ignition to start the car there was a loud clicking noise and all the dash lights went dim 
>and nothing happened - I have a feeling that the stater is stuck or broken....Is this the case 
>and how hard is it to fix???
>
>An ideas.
>
>Alistair McCann
>Pilot 25
>
>
>  
>






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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 30 Dec 2005 00:50:08 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Loud Clicking Noise From Engine Area, Car Wont Start

It *could* be the starter solenoid. More likely a dirty connection or
a weak battery. Start by removing the battery, cleaning it and the
connections up, and recharging and testing the battery. If it tests
good after recharging then put it back in and try again. 
 IMHO a better way to store a car is to remove the battery and trickle
charge it once a month for a day. Remove the fuel, put the car up on
jackstands and cover it. Starting it once a week and running it for 15
min does not make it last any better. In fact, if it doesn't warm up
you can be doing more harm than just letting it sit. Don't forget you
have to change the fluids regularly even if you don't drive it. The
brake and clutch especially. Those fluid draw moisture from the air
and by not using the car (heating the fluid to drive the moisture off)
those systems will rot.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
>
> Starter solenoid, the small round box mounted on top of the starter. 
> Replace it or open it up and replace the copper contactor. This is 
>








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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 30 Dec 2005 00:31:59 -0000
From: "dmc_5180" <dmc_5180_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Loud Clicking Noise From Engine Area, Car Wont Start

You might want to try charging the battery. Since low voltage will cause the clicking also.

Dennis


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "alistairmccann" <pilot25dmc_at_dml_o...> wrote:
>
> Tried starting the car up tonight for its weekly 15 minutes of running but when I turned on 
> the ignition to start the car there was a loud clicking noise and all the dash lights went dim 
> and nothing happened - I have a feeling that the stater is stuck or broken....Is this the case 
> and how hard is it to fix???
> 
> An ideas.
> 
> Alistair McCann
> Pilot 25
>









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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 30 Dec 2005 01:43:18 -0000
From: "Dan" <djdanwilson_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: AutoWeek Delorean Article.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Louie" <louie_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> 
> If it isn't the rarity difference, then what really makes the Boss 
> more valuable than the DeLorean then?

Overall desirability. That's all.

Rarity, performance, visual appeal, history/heritage, nostalgia,
general visibility and trend are just some of the various factors that
contribute to overall desirability.

The Mustang has enjoyed mass appeal since day one. The DMC-12 was a
brief trend gone sour turned cult following. Will it's current status
change in the future? It might, or it might not depending of many
things. Only time will tell. An increase in desirability and value is
a double edge sword though.

Dan W.
VIN 16192
AZ-D







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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 29 Dec 2005 20:49:21 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: oil pan gasket removal

 
 
In a message dated 12/29/2005 2:11:27 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk writes:

Sure -  if you drain the oil and coolant first. The coolant has two drain 
bungs in  either side of the block, same as the sump  plug

Martin


>>>
OK, yeah that's what I thought.  I have never  removed those plugs but I have 
a nifty tool I made with a Dremel - I ground down  a 3/8" Chevy/Ford 
stripped-out-differential-check-plug extractor which I then  put inside a 5/8" 
deepwell socket.  it fits perfectly and is made of  hardened steel.
 
I tried having a machine shop make me a drain plug tool with 5/16" key  stock 
but the metal was too weak and I twisted it trying to loosen my drain plug  
(don't remember making it that tight last time!!).  
 
Once I have the engine back in the car I plan on setting this extractor  
thing in a regular socket so hopefully I can use it once the engine is back  where 
it belongs again.
 
I'll drain the coolant tonight and then try Mike Greise's plug outlet trick  
since I happen to have a spare laying around in my bedroom at the moment  
anyway!
 
Thanks guys - I'll let you know how it turns out.
 
Andy
 
Fargo, ND  
1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 29 Dec 2005 21:42:18 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Water pump and internal water pipe removal

 
 
In a message dated 12/29/2005 5:33:55 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
usndmc_at_dml_gmail.com writes:

I am in  the process of replacing my all-original cooling system. I 
have been  soaking the bolts for the water pipe and water pump with 
penetrating oil  for a few days. Tomorrow morning I am going to get a 
propane torch for  heating the bolts before removing. I don't have much 
experience with this  sort of thing and was just looking for any tips 
or advice on how to remove  these bolts without breaking them. Also, if 
they do happen to break, I've  heard it's a real pain to drill them 
out. Never done that before  either...any helpful pointers on the 
entire process would be greatly  appreciated! Thanks everyone and Happy 
upcoming New  Year!

Dave
#5968


>>>>
Dave,
 
I did this a few years ago.  Here is what I did:
 
1. use penetrating oil for a couple of days prior to removal.
2. Use a propane torch to heat the bolt up.  Just point the torch  flame at 
the bolt and the pipe it goes into.  Do this for maybe a minute or  so.  avoid 
heating the block or heads because this kind of heat could  damage the 
aluminum. keep a fire extinguisher handy and wear safety  glasses.
3. immediately after heating, use a ball-peen hammer and tap the head of  the 
bolt a few times to jar it loose from any rust or whatever.
4. being sure to use the appropriate size 6 pt socket and high quality  
ratchet and extensions, make sure you have plenty of room to maneuver (set this  up 
before heating or tapping). Joe LoRe advised me to apply maximum power  right 
away to the ratchet, as this minimizes the likelyhood of slowly twisting  the 
head off if you go slow.  He reasoned that the sudden torque would  break the 
bolt free and come out cleanly.  Not sure if this is best advice  but it 
worked perfectly for me and I got the Y-pipe bolts out w/o any trouble at  all.  
Make sure to replace all the O-rings and washers in there.   Don't cheap out 
because you don't want to do this again!!
 
Good luck!
Andy
 
Fargo, ND  
1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596



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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 29 Dec 2005 20:42:36 -0700
From: "Matt Carpenter" <mattdcarpenter_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: '82 for sale


http://chrisbeckerphoto.com/delorean/index.html

FYI...Spotted this one on google alerts






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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 29 Dec 2005 21:05:11 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Check out the 72 BMW Gullwing

This month's Road and Track has an interesting 2 or 3 page article on the  M1 
and its phases of prototyping.  There is a drawing of it with gullwing  doors 
that open the same and physically look the same as the DMC, in fact the  
whole profile of the car would make you think it's a DMC if you just glanced at  
it. Definitely worth a look.
 
Andy
 
Fargo, ND  
1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596
 
 
In a message dated 12/29/2005 9:34:59 A.M. Central Standard Time,  
swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com writes:

That  appears to be a prototype of a BMW M-1 also designed by Giugiaro. 




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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 29 Dec 2005 20:25:46 -0800 (PST)
From: Christopher Mack <christopher_mack_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Does anyone else have one of these? Blank VIN Plate (dash)

HEllo,

I also have two blank Door VIN plates.  I noticed
awhile that the part number on 81 door vin plates
differs from that of the 82 and 83 door vin plates. 
In terms of the blank door vin plates that are
floating aroud out ther I am curious what part number
people have.  If anyone has a blank vin plate let me
know

Thanks

-Chris & 6453

--- dmc82_at_dml_comcast.net wrote:

> yes, I was mistaken as I have the door ones.
> That will teach me to read every tenth email!
> 
> -------------- Original message -------------- 
> From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net> 
> 
> > Cecil, 
> > 
> > If you are referring to the SS door VIN plates,
> yes, you are 
> > correct that there are quite a few of these blanks
> floating 
> > around. However, this VIN tag discussion was
> focusing on the 
> > early SS dash plates, with a DMC logo and the
> factory details 
> > printed on the plate, with an outlined location
> for the VIN. 
> > These appear to be used on less than 90 early 500
> series cars. 
> > 
> > Later, 
> > Rich W. 
> > 
> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, dmc82_at_dml_c... wrote: 
> > > 
> > > I haven't read all of this thread however I have
> several of the 
> > blank VIN plates so I don't think those are rare. 
> > > 
> > > Cecil Longwisch 

> > > 
> > > any case, feel free to continue the discussion
> of it. I have 
> > > > talked to Ken K and the blank VIN plate will
> for sure be at DCS. 

> 
> 





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