From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, January 01, 2006 3:47 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3053

There are 17 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. License Plate Holder
From: "tuxr" <tuxdarby_at_dml_msn.com>

2. Re: Does anyone else have one of these? Blank VIN Plate (dash)
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

3. cat eliminator pipe for sale
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

4. Improved Automatic Transmission Computer
From: "Steve" <p2freak_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Re: Re: oil pan gasket removal
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

6. Re: before the internet & another N.Y. Times article
From: "sandorp1" <piszar_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

7. Re: Water pump and internal water pipe removal
From: "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_gmail.com>

8. Re: Improved Automatic Transmission Computer
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

9. Re: Water pump and internal water pipe removal
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

10. Re: Water pump and internal water pipe removal
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

11. Re: Water pump and internal water pipe removal
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

12. Re: gas tanks [was Water pump ]
From: Chris Murley <qumefox_at_dml_gmail.com>

13. Righty Tighty, Lefty Loosey Right?
From: "secret_jedi_guy" <secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_yahoo.com>

14. Re: Righty Tighty, Lefty Loosey Right?
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

15. Re: Re: Improved Automatic Transmission Computer
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

16. DeLorean ownership experience.
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. Re: Water pump and internal water pipe removal
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 31 Dec 2005 03:24:22 -0000
From: "tuxr" <tuxdarby_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: License Plate Holder

If you want to display your Delorean interest when you're driving your other car, I posted a photo of a license plate holder I had made (under "License Plate Holder" file).  It says "My Other Car is a Time Machine".  Got the stainless steel look to it, which nicely matches the silver of my Camry.  Many people wouldn't get it, but those that know you will.  Cost me $18 at the mall.  Just an idea for what it's worth.  Happy new year.







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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 31 Dec 2005 04:47:26 -0000
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Does anyone else have one of these? Blank VIN Plate (dash)

One hundred percent correct,been there,as when I bought a Bricklin to restore back in 1992,and put it thru inspection the DPO(dreaded previous owner)for some reason had run a "fifth" Rivet thru the door Vin tag,and my motor vehicles made a BIG stink out of that,even tho the four original rivet's were still there,they did a VERY close inspection on that Vin tag for any kind of tampering/removal,and determined after  quite a bit of investigation,that,that Vin tag was the original and belonged with that car.
cbl 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_o...>
wrote:
>
> As of now I do not think ANYONE has the legal authority (except a 
> State DMV maybe) to recreate or create a vin tag.




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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 31 Dec 2005 00:03:34 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: cat eliminator pipe for sale

Hey Group,
 
I just ordered DMCH's performance exhaust (you know, since I have my engine out anyway........).  Well now I won't be needing any of my old exhaust  stuff which includes a stainless steel catalytic converter eliminator  pipe I bought a few years ago from Ed Uding. A pic can be seen on page 8 of  my website - _http://members.cardomain.com/soma576_ (http://members.cardomain.com/soma576) 
 
The rest of my exhaust is stock and in good shape except it needs two new  
studs welded to the pass side manifold where the xover pipe bolts onto it.   
Both of those broke during disassembly.  The manifolds should be machined  on the mating surfaces too.  Someone might be able to use this stuff and  get it cleaned up and high temp coated or something? 55K miles on the  parts.
 
Make an offer for any of these parts, otherwise I am throwing them out at the end of Jan when my new exhaust is installed.
 
Andy
 
Fargo, ND
1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 31 Dec 2005 05:47:03 -0000
From: "Steve" <p2freak_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Improved Automatic Transmission Computer

Group,

I've just finished rebuilding the AC mode switch and tackling the next item on the work list.

Is there an improved automatic transmission computer one can purchase or build?  The archives indicate some people have taken the computer out of the transmission housing and installed it in the engine bay. 
How is it accomplished?

Please e-mail me off the list if you have a broken computer that can be rebuilt.

Thanks.



Steve
VIN#04421








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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 31 Dec 2005 11:30:55 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: oil pan gasket removal

Just to clarify...

http://www.delorean.co.uk/coolant_drain.jpg  (Dave, you're welcome to have this in the tech section)

Don't want you pulling oil drains :-)

BTW when you turn it over, you will inevitably get a dribble here and there - I find a flattenned cardboard box does a good job of soaking up any drips

As for drain plug tools - the 8mm square key is common to a lot of French cars and the tools are quite easy to get here. Any set of socket-style tools will have an 8mm in it. I got one from Teng, lost it, then got one from Snap-On which I like because it has a 19mm head.

Martin

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com wrote:

> 
>  
>
>OK, yeah that's what I thought.  I have never  removed those plugs but 
>I have a nifty tool I made with a Dremel - I ground down  a 3/8" 
>Chevy/Ford stripped-out-differential-check-plug extractor which I then  put inside a 5/8"
>deepwell socket.  it fits perfectly and is made of  hardened steel.
> 
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 31 Dec 2005 16:06:07 -0000
From: "sandorp1" <piszar_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: before the internet & another N.Y. Times article

I was in the Mustang hobby for 18 years before I sold my car and bought a Delorean.  Mustang owners have far more vendors than our marque, yet people were grateful to have such a large base of support for their Stangs.  They were also very supportive of each other and it was rare to find any arrogance from "experts".

When I bought my car and joined the forums I was surprised to see such a high level of negativity about the vendors as well as hostility towards individuals!  We are extremely lucky to have ANY support for our orphaned brand and should be grateful that we can keep our (sometimes problematic!) cars running and looking their best.  I have worked with Rob on numerous occasions and he would give you the shirt off his back.  Stephen and James at DMCH are just as great, and I have received good support from Special T Auto too.  

People need to realize that we are lucky to have any support at all.  Let's stop whining and start enjoying our hobby!  Otherwise those potential owners who stop by a forum to check out our hobby will be driven away and never return.

OK, I'll get off my soap box now.


Sandor
# 3002






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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 31 Dec 2005 21:12:55 -0000
From: "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Water pump and internal water pipe removal

2 for 2 so far, Andy. I got the water pump out successfully. Maybe you can help with the last thing trying to stand in the way of a Happy New Year. I'm trying to replace my original gas tank. I removed the support plate but gravity did not do the trick bringing it down. It is positively wedged in place. The foam is practically bonded to it. I used a screw driver to try and separate the tank from the foam where I could. I tried pounding on it from the access cover from the top with a rubber mallet, to no avail. Next I fashioned a wooden lever and wedged it from the top between the rear part of the tank (skinny part) and the fiberglass body just above and it and tried that lever action repeatedly to dislodge it. All it accomplished was to push the top of the tank in as I pulled. I know there are a hundred reasons not to do this besides the ones I can think of, but the only possible idea I have left is to cut at it with a Dremel from the bottom and hack it up and pull it out in pieces. Anybody had any similar problems? Thanks for any help!

Dave
#5968

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
>
>  Dave,
> 
> Glad to hear that my advice worked for you too.  If I  remember, I
think I 
> just tapped on my water pump bolts with a hammer a few times
before loosening 
> and just gave them the old heave-ho.  





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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 31 Dec 2005 22:00:36 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Improved Automatic Transmission Computer

There is no "improved" version of the shift computer. If the one in your car is shifting properly the best thing to do is to keep your hands off of it. There are some things you CAN do. Do all of the external "on car" service checks. Check the fluid levels in the transmission AND final drive. You can even change the fluids if you feel the need. Check the cable adjustment to the shift computer. Make sure the kick-down switch is properly adjusted and working. Check the line pressure and make sure the vacuum modulator is hooked up and there are no vacuum leaks. If the transmission is working right it needs very little attention outside of regularly checking the fluid level. You can also make sure the wiring harness to the shift computer is securely fastened and away from the hot exhaust pipes.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757  



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <p2freak_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>
> Group,
> 
> I've just finished rebuilding the AC mode switch and tackling the next 
> item on the work list.
> 
> Is there an improved automatic transmission computer one can purchase 
> or build?  The archives indicate some people have taken the computer 
> out of the transmission housing and installed it in the engine bay.
> 








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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 31 Dec 2005 22:36:00 -0000
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Water pump and internal water pipe removal

stop.stop.stop....

i did all this as i could find no info on removing the tank.
the manual is no good. you need to temporary drop/remove the water pipes running under the car. they wedge it in place.
i did the same with a block of wood and mallet and could not work out what was holding it in place.
yes the rubber pads do also but for me the water pipes removed and the tank dropped out easy.
it was ok for me as i had a new tank to go in but my old one is undamaged.

now the tank going back in, thats another problem, aas you need eight hands....

i used a trolley jack to hold up, refix the water pipes then slide the plate and used a jack lightly to push the tank up fully.

obviously be carefull only only work on the tank when empty.

Regards

Steve
vin 1621



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_g...> wrote:
>
> 2 for 2 so far, Andy. I got the water pump out successfully. Maybe you 
> can help with the last thing trying to stand in the way of a Happy New 
> Year. I'm trying to replace my original gas tank. I removed the 
> support plate but gravity did not do the trick
bringing 
> it down. It is positively wedged in place. The foam is practically 
> bonded to it. I used a screw driver to try and separate the tank from 
> the foam where I could. I tried pounding on it from the
access 
> cover from the top with a rubber mallet, to no avail. Next I fashioned 
> a wooden lever and wedged it from the top between the
rear 
> part of the tank (skinny part) and the fiberglass body just above and 
> it and tried that lever action repeatedly to dislodge it. All
it 
> accomplished was to push the top of the tank in as I pulled. I
know 
> there are a hundred reasons not to do this besides the ones I can 
> think of, but the only possible idea I have left is to cut at it with 
> a Dremel from the bottom and hack it up and pull it out in pieces. 
> Anybody had any similar problems? Thanks for any help!
> 
> Dave
> #5968
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> >
> >  Dave,
> > 
> > Glad to hear that my advice worked for you too.  If I  remember,
I 
> think I
> > just tapped on my water pump bolts with a hammer a few times
> before loosening
> > and just gave them the old heave-ho.
>









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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 31 Dec 2005 22:23:53 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Water pump and internal water pipe removal

It can be very difficult to get the tank out. They used grease to get it in and the grease hardens into a kind of glue or cement and the foam pads kind of make it stick in place. Unless you HAVE to remove it to do a frame repair I suggest leaving it in. You can clean it well without removing it. If you still insist on removing it you can try standing on it and using your foot to try to work the back, pointy edge down. You can also try a 2x4 to lever it out. Pry bars and screwdrivers will only flex a small area, they are too narrow. You can try using a wire to cut the foam pads too. Do not cut the tank up, there is no reason to damage it and another tank is not cheap. You have all the access you need from the top where the fuel pump goes in to reach in and clean the insides. It doesn't get much better even if you remove the tank. With acetone you can clean it up very nice inside, it should not have to be removed to be steamed. Another way to get the tank out has been discovered by another poster on the list. I do not recomend it. First remove the plate. Next, fill the tank with gas. Now drive on a bumpy road and wait for the Fire Department to clean up the mess!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_g...> wrote:
>
> 2 for 2 so far, Andy. I got the water pump out successfully. Maybe you 
> can help with the last thing trying to stand in the way of a Happy New 
> Year. I'm trying to replace my original gas tank. I removed the 
> support plate but gravity did not do the trick bringing it down. It is 
> positively wedged in place. The foam is practically bonded to it. I 
> used a screw driver to try and separate the tank from the foam where I 
> could. I tried pounding on it from the access cover from the top with 
> a rubber mallet, to no avail. Next I
> 








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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 31 Dec 2005 19:34:30 -0600
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Water pump and internal water pipe removal

Dave,

Have you removed the two cooling pipes?

Try to put a flat piece of 1/8" steel bar along the sides to break the 
bond with the frame.

Pounding won't work.  You need to get some level in there to start 
moving it.

Also, I have found that spraying penetrating oil long the sides helps 
it to slide better.

Bob





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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 31 Dec 2005 19:28:05 -0600
From: Chris Murley <qumefox_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: gas tanks [was Water pump ]

usndmc wrote:

>2 for 2 so far, Andy. I got the water pump out successfully. Maybe
>you can help with the last thing trying to stand in the way of a
>Happy New Year. I'm trying to replace my original gas tank. I
>removed the support plate but gravity did not do the trick bringing
>it down. It is positively wedged in place. The foam is practically
>bonded to it. I used a screw driver to try and separate the tank
>from the foam where I could. I tried pounding on it from the access
>cover from the top with a rubber mallet, to no avail. Next I
>fashioned a wooden lever and wedged it from the top between the rear
>part of the tank (skinny part) and the fiberglass body just above
>and it and tried that lever action repeatedly to dislodge it. All it
>accomplished was to push the top of the tank in as I pulled. I know
>there are a hundred reasons not to do this besides the ones I can
>think of, but the only possible idea I have left is to cut at it
>with a Dremel from the bottom and hack it up and pull it out in
>pieces. Anybody had any similar problems? Thanks for any help!
>
>Dave
>#5968
>
>
>
Just out of curiosity, why would you need to replace the gas tank? Does
it have a hole in it or something? To my knowlege theres nothing that
goes wrong with the gas tanks themselves. They're fairly tough plastic(




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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 00:28:44 -0000
From: "secret_jedi_guy" <secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Righty Tighty, Lefty Loosey Right?

Hello all,

I'm trying to replace my angle drive and the instructions DMCH sent 
me say to loosen the axel nut a few threads.  The problem is that 
this  sucker is on tight and I'm not sure which way to turn this.

Is it to the left or to the right.  The wheel turns left in rapid 
forward motion most of the time.  Since that is the case if turning 
the axel nut to the left loosens it wouldn't the centripidal force 
of the spining wheel eventually spin the nut off?  It would make 
sense that threading the nut to loosen to the right to prevent that 
from happening.  

There really is no way to loosen the nut or get the nut off without 
an air impact drill, but I just want to make sure I'm loosening it 
instead of tightening it on more.

Thanks DMLers

Japheth Deaux

VIN: 1223-DelorVette







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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 31 Dec 2005 20:44:01 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Righty Tighty, Lefty Loosey Right?

 
 
In a message dated 12/31/2005 7:40:05 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_yahoo.com writes:

Is it to  the left or to the right.  The wheel turns left in rapid 
forward  motion most of the time.  Since that is the case if turning 
the axel  nut to the left loosens it wouldn't the centripidal force 
of the spining  wheel eventually spin the nut off?  It would make 
sense that  threading the nut to loosen to the right to prevent that 
from  happening.  



>>>>>
The nut is 'reverse threaded', or really it's all a matter of  perspective.  
You are looking at the back side of it!!
 
Turn the nut the 'tight' way and you will get it off!  Been there,  done that.
 
Andy
 
Fargo, ND  
1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 15
Date: Sat, 31 Dec 2005 19:46:14 -0600
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Improved Automatic Transmission Computer

Yes there is an improved shift computer, i have seen it!

Mark V


On Dec 31, 2005, at 4:00 PM, David Teitelbaum wrote:

> There is no "improved" version of the shift computer. 




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Message: 16
Date: Sat, 31 Dec 2005 21:26:55 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: DeLorean ownership experience.

I still have a Mustang, and can tell you I no longer
show it or participate in any shows with it because of
the general arrogance of many Mustang owners. 
"experts" telling me I have the wrong radiator hose
clamp, or the spark plug electrode should be at the 3
o'clock position instead of 12 o'clock.

Like my DeLorean, I DRIVE my Mustang.  It is far more
acceptable among DeLorean owners to actually use your
car than many other "collector" cars.


--- sandorp1 <piszar_at_dml_sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> I was in the Mustang hobby for 18 years before I
> sold my car and 
> bought a Delorean.  Mustang owners have far more
> vendors than our 
> marque, yet people were grateful to have such a
> large base of 
> support for their Stangs.  They were also very
> supportive of each 
> other and it was rare to find any arrogance from
> "experts".
<SNIP>


		
__________________________________________ 
Yahoo! DSL  Something to write home about. 
Just $16.99/mo. or less. 
dsl.yahoo.com 





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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 03:06:15 -0000
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Water pump and internal water pipe removal

you can also ease the pad away from the frame with a piece of flat 
plastic or ease away and put card between the two.

if still won't come out, try threading plastic packaging straps over 
the whole tank to give you something to pull on.
it should ease out OK.
mine did.

regards

Steve




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_s...> wrote:
>
> Dave,
> 
> Have you removed the two cooling pipes?
> 
> Try to put a flat piece of 1/8" steel bar along the sides to break 
the 
> bond with the frame.
> 
> Pounding won't work.  You need to get some level in there to start 
> moving it.
> 
> Also, I have found that spraying penetrating oil long the sides 
helps 
> it to slide better.
> 
> Bob
>








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