From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, January 01, 2006 10:05 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3054

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Screen Painting
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>

2. Re: DeLorean ownership experience.
From: "sandorp1" <piszar_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

3. Problems
From: "lamborghinijim" <lamborghinijim_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. Re: Improved Automatic Transmission Computer (Long)
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

5. Re: Righty Tighty, Lefty Loosey Right?
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Re: Re: Improved Automatic Transmission Computer
From: Greg Zapf <x86Daddy_at_dml_gmail.com>

7. Re: gas tanks [was Water pump ]
From: Chris Murley <qumefox_at_dml_gmail.com>

8. Re: Water pump and internal water pipe removal
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

9. Re: Righty Tighty, Lefty Loosey Right?
From: "sandorp1" <piszar_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

10. Re: Re: DeLorean ownership experience.
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. Radiator
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

12. AW: Problems
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

13. #6195 for sale
From: "turbodelorean" <dmcfan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

14. Re: Re: Improved Automatic Transmission Computer
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

15. There's no knowing the weather.
From: "Tell you if you ask." <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

16. Jacking up Car....
From: "Mike Bosworth" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>

17. Re: Problems
From: Chris Murley <qumefox_at_dml_gmail.com>

18. Re: Problems
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

19. Re: Re: Improved Automatic Transmission Computer (Long)
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>

20. Would you buy?
From: "firedude38" <FireDude38_at_dml_msn.com>

21. Automobile Transporter Question
From: "Michael Townsley" <michaeltownsley_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

22. Re: Problems
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

23. Re: Automobile Transporter Question
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

24. Re: Improved Automatic Transmission Computer (coming soon)
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

25. Fuel Filter Replacement
From: "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_gmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 31 Dec 2005 23:26:42 -0800
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: RE: Screen Painting

I will point out that the perforated metal panels which are used to create an Omnimax dome screen (yes - like the BTTF Ride Domes) are not painted as it can tend to block some of the perforations, instead they are powder coated.  I'd consider looking at that if you are concerned.

Tom Tait
10902
BTTF Ride '91 & '93 

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of tuxr
Sent: Friday, December 30, 2005 6:03 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Screen Painting

I plan to paint the screens on the engine cover a metallic silver color.
Anyone know of any special paint I should use?  Any problems in doing this, would it make the holes too small and not vent properly?  As always, thanks for the advice.





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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 13:04:19 -0000
From: "sandorp1" <piszar_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: DeLorean ownership experience.

Marc, that is while you are SHOWING your car!  There are STANDARDS for any car when you are SHOWING it!  It has nothing to do with arrogance.  When you show a Mustang it needs to meet MCA standards.  
When you show a D in a Concours event it needs to meet Concours standards.  That has nothing to do with arrogance either.  

What I was talking about was a general smart-alecky attitiude that pervades many posts in the D forums when it comes to vendors, tech advice, responding to others, etc.  It had ZERO to do with showing cars.

Thanks for your response.


Sandor
# 3002



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>
> I still have a Mustang, and can tell you I no longer show it or 
> participate in any shows with it because of the general arrogance of 
> many Mustang owners.
> "experts" telling me I have the wrong radiator hose clamp, or the 
> spark plug electrode should be at the 3 o'clock position instead of 12 
> o'clock.
> 
> Like my DeLorean, I DRIVE my Mustang.  It is far more acceptable among 
> DeLorean owners to actually use your car than many other "collector" 
> cars.
> 
> 
> --- sandorp1 <piszar_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> 
> > I was in the Mustang hobby for 18 years before I sold my car and 
> > bought a Delorean.  Mustang owners have far more vendors than our 
> > marque, yet people were grateful to have such a large base of 
> > support for their Stangs.  They were also very supportive of each 
> > other and it was rare to find any arrogance from "experts".
> <SNIP>
> 
> 
> 		
> __________________________________________
> Yahoo! DSL  Something to write home about. 
> Just $16.99/mo. or less. 
> dsl.yahoo.com
>









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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 14:18:33 -0000
From: "lamborghinijim" <lamborghinijim_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Problems

Hi guys need your help again.

And a happy New Year to you all.

1.Manual gearbox : What is the cross ref Pt No for the reverse 
llight switch, or what other vehicles was it used on?

2. Have a slight miss/hessitation, happend the other day after 
washed engine but after a short drive and a rest it cleared. Got the 
engine wet again but this one has stayed, taken car out for 3 good 
runs, seems OK on a steady throttle but hessitates on acceleration. 
I have changed the fuel filter.

2. Emmission stuff, what has to be done to remove all this garbage, 
you cannot see the motor because of al the crap fitted!!!!

Cheers

Jim











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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2006 11:30:23 EST
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Improved Automatic Transmission Computer (Long)

 
 
Steve,
 
Great timing.  I was thinking of the same question.  I know I  read about 
someone discussing a digitally controlled Automatic Transmission  Computer (ATC) 
using a PIC computer.  Somehow I think that is overkill, but  maybe its just 
that I'm an analog kind of guy, though.  I have been  frustrated with my ATC's 
intermittent shifting (or not shifting)  problem.  I think I did finally get 
it fixed though. 
 
I previously moved the ATC to the left hand side of the engine  compartment 
the first time I took it out because I did not want to have to keep  crawling 
under the car each time I needed to look at it.  Of course I  believe that in 
reality, IT was never bad in the first place and only started  going bad after 
I fooled with it, which I did because of what I thought was a  weird 
"shifting" problem.  
 
Sometimes, when I am in third gear at medium throttle and medium load and  
"give it more gas" the tranny slips so badly its as if it has been put into  
neutral. I come off the gas and it catches right away.  It does really  happen 
often, especially not that I know how to prevent it.  (To Dave T,  yes I finally 
bought a tranny pressure gauge but of course haven't used it  yet.)   I 
originally thought that it was down shifting into first  instead of second.  A set 
of transmission solenoid LEDs (courtesy of Dave  T's help) proved that that 
was not the problem.  But by that time the ATC  was already out and opened up.  
After not finding the typical blown  capacitors I decide to move it to a more 
easily accessed site because I just  knew I'd be in it again.
 
I did this by carefully desoldering the three wire that connect the boards  
to the generator.  I soldered a shielded two conductor cable to the  generator, 
and filled the rest of the case that housed the boards with silicone  rubber. 
 You can then loosen and reroute the original black cable that  still goes to 
the boards, along with your new shielded cable, back over the  tranny and 
into the engine compartment.  Make sure you use cable ties to  keep the wires 
away from the hot exhaust and any moving parts.
 
Using Dr Dave's theory that when ever something is not working, look at the  
last thing you screwed around with...  The boards seems rather sensitive  
mechanically especially the ribbon cable that connects the two together.   That 
was the first to break.  I found a number of bad solder joints, which  by the 
way looked fine even under a 10x loupe. Originally I did my testing  with the 
car on jack stands so the wheels were off the ground.  I think  this lead to the 
premature failure of my new CV boots so I don't recommend  it.  More recent 
testing was done with the car engine off using a  variable voltage source made 
from a 9 volt battery across a 100K - 10 turn  potentiometer.  This provides a 
0 to 9 volt variable voltage that is easily  adjusted. I connected this to 
the point where the two input diode connect  together.  Of course you'll need 
the schematic to help troubleshoot.   I found that the 1st to 2nd up shift 
occurred at ~ 3.8 volts, 2nd to 3rd up  shift at 7.4 volts.  3rd to 2nd down shift 
at 5.37 volts and 2nd to 1st  downshift at 3.7 volts (which seems a bit too 
close to the up shift  voltage.)
 
Using this method I found that touching or twisting the board would cause  it 
to shift. I also found that the circuit is very sensitive to being shorted by 
 the minute electricity conducted though my fingers and hands so I ended up  
holding the board with a pair of plastic forceps and applying pressure to test 
 for intermittent areas with another plastic probe.  I found several areas  
that seemed to be the most sensitive to touch and position and resoldered all  
the joints in those areas.  Again, the joints looked fine visually.   Also I 
could not seem to get the coating off the boards prior to resoldering so  that 
made it a bit difficult.  I used lacquer thinner but it didn't  work.
 
If I had to make a new ATC I think it would be similar to the one already  in 
place, that is analog.  I would make it on one board so as to eliminate  the 
ribbon cable and I would add protection diodes and bypass / filter caps to  
the IC power as others have recommended in the past.  Shifting could be  
adjusted by fine tuning the comparator resistors.  Not being all that  familiar with 
digital PICs this would be the easiest for me.
 
All comments and suggestions welcome. 
 
Happy New Year!
 
D & 6530
Dave Delman
 
 
 




Message: 4
Date: Sat, 31 Dec 2005 05:47:03 -0000
From: "Steve" <p2freak_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Improved Automatic Transmission Computer

Group,

I've just finished rebuilding the AC mode switch  and tackling the next
item on the work list.

Is there an improved  automatic transmission computer one can purchase
or build?  The  archives indicate some people have taken the computer
out of the  transmission housing and installed it in the engine bay. 
How is it  accomplished?

Please e-mail me off the list if you have a broken  computer that can
be  rebuilt.

Thanks.



Steve
VIN#0442




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 03:38:33 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Righty Tighty, Lefty Loosey Right?

It turns right (normal), you just need to use brute force to get it off. Helps
if you turn the wheel to the left, and possibly use a cheater bar.
Turning the wheel to the left minimizes the chance of bumping any
tools into the fender while removing. I use a large open ended wench
to remove the nut. Can't remember the size offhand though.

Good luck.


-Joe O'Brien

2524,
16634,
16851









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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2006 01:05:19 -0600
From: Greg Zapf <x86Daddy_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Improved Automatic Transmission Computer

Who offers it and how much!?  Last I checked, more than one were in
development, but none released yet.  And I'm about to perform surgery
on mine yet again, so the timing is great.

--Greg
#2894

On 12/31/05, DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com> wrote:
> Yes there is an improved shift computer, i have seen it!
>
> Mark V
>
>
> On Dec 31, 2005, at 4:00 PM, David Teitelbaum wrote:
>
> > There is no "improved" version of the shift computer.
>
>




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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2006 00:35:27 -0600
From: Chris Murley <qumefox_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: gas tanks [was Water pump ]

Chris Murley wrote:

>usndmc wrote:
>
>
>
>>2 for 2 so far, Andy. I got the water pump out successfully. Maybe
>>you can help with the last thing trying to stand in the way of a
>>Happy New Year. I'm trying to replace my original gas tank. I
>>removed the support plate but gravity did not do the trick bringing
>>it down. It is positively wedged in place. The foam is practically
>>bonded to it. I used a screw driver to try and separate the tank
>>
>>
>>from the foam where I could. I tried pounding on it from the access
>
>
>>cover from the top with a rubber mallet, to no avail. Next I
>>fashioned a wooden lever and wedged it from the top between the rear
>>part of the tank (skinny part) and the fiberglass body just above
>>and it and tried that lever action repeatedly to dislodge it. All it
>>accomplished was to push the top of the tank in as I pulled. I know
>>there are a hundred reasons not to do this besides the ones I can
>>think of, but the only possible idea I have left is to cut at it
>>with a Dremel from the bottom and hack it up and pull it out in
>>pieces. Anybody had any similar problems? Thanks for any help!
>>
>>Dave
>>#5968
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>Just out of curiosity, why would you need to replace the gas tank? Does
>it have a hole in it or something? To my knowlege theres nothing that
>goes wrong with the gas tanks themselves. They're fairly tough plastic(
>
>
>

Hrm. For some strange reason the mod de jeur chose to hack off over half
my reply, so here goes again.

Just out of curiosity, why would you need to replace the gas tank? Does
it have a hole in it or something? To my knowlege theres nothing that
goes wrong with the gas tanks themselves. They're fairly tough plastic(
and fully enclosed by the frame and access panel to boot! So it takes
something major to puncture one.). You also have to remember any stock
the vendors have of theses will be NOS as well.. No one to my knowledge
has ever had a reason to remanufacture these so anything you replaced it
with would be just as old so there's no advantage in doing it if thats
your sole reason. It's just work for no gain. If your doing it because
of debris in the tank, then the pump, pickup and baffle will come out
with the tank in the car.. I think the baffle just requires some bending
to do it, and from there it's just a matter of  getting the last of the
fuel siphoned out and  then cleaning the inside of the tank good.

But to reply to your question.. I seem to recall when I pulled mine  for
the restoration of the car, that for some reason BOTH sides of the foam
was glued, both to the tank and the frame. I ended up having to destroy
most of the foam to get my tank dislodged, and that was even with the
body off where I could access the top.

So my advice to you. If your just wanting to replace the tank because of
age, then your probably best off leaving it alone and in the car. Any of
the tanks you'd get from the vendors would be just as old. If your doing
it for fuel system contamination, then just pull the pump, sender,
baffle, and pickup and clean the tank thoroughly through the access hole.

--

Chris
VIN# 03209
http://badger.brazi.net/index.pl/delorean






--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.371 / Virus Database: 267.14.9/217 - Release Date: 12/30/2005






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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 17:20:35 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Water pump and internal water pipe removal

Good luck - I tried evrything and broke off all three.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_g...> wrote:
>
> Andy,
> 
> Thanks for the advice! I did exactly as you said with the Y-pipe 
> bolts and they came out no problem, none broken. Do you (or 
anybody 
> else) know if this is safe to do for the water pump bolts. I 
haven't 
> tried it yet on them because I wasn't sure about whether or not 
> putting the flame to those bolts would damage the block around it. 
I 
> have tried loosening them with a 1/4" drive ratchet to avoid 
> snapping them, but they haven't budged. I'm quite worried about 
> breaking one of them. Anybody have any more advice on how to 
> approach the water pump bolts? Thanks all!
> 
> Dave
> #5968
> 
> 
> > 
> > >>>>
> > Dave,
> >  
> > I did this a few years ago.  Here is what I did:
> >  
> > 1. use penetrating oil for a couple of days prior to removal.
> > 2. Use a propane torch to heat the bolt up.  Just point the 








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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 13:11:12 -0000
From: "sandorp1" <piszar_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Righty Tighty, Lefty Loosey Right?

Looking at the nut, it loosens as you turn it left, i.e. lefty 
loosey.

There is a way to get it off without an impact wrench.  With a good, 
solid wrench on the nut, use a hydralic jack on the end of the 
wrench and it will work perfectly.  That's what I did to get mine 
off.

Good luck, this is a pretty straightforward project once you get 
that nut loosened!


Sandor
# 3002




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "secret_jedi_guy" 
<secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>
> Hello all,
> 
> I'm trying to replace my angle drive and the instructions DMCH 
sent 
> me say to loosen the axel nut a few threads.  The problem is that 
> this  sucker is on tight and I'm not sure which way to turn this.
> 
> Is it to the left or to the right.  The wheel turns left in rapid 
> forward motion most of the time.  Since that is the case if 
turning 
> the axel nut to the left loosens it wouldn't the centripidal force 
> of the spining wheel eventually spin the nut off?  It would make 
> sense that threading the nut to loosen to the right to prevent 
that 
> from happening.  
> 
> There really is no way to loosen the nut or get the nut off 
without 
> an air impact drill, but I just want to make sure I'm loosening it 
> instead of tightening it on more.
> 
> Thanks DMLers
> 
> Japheth Deaux
> 
> VIN: 1223-DelorVette
>








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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2006 10:24:38 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: DeLorean ownership experience.

I have never put my Mustang in a MCA show.  Only
brought it to cruise nights, and the local "peoples
choice" shows.  Much like with the DeLorean, the
spectators loved my car but I always had a problem
with other Mustang owners.

As far as vendors go, yes there are a lot more to
choose from in the Mustang world.  However, with a
Mustang it is not a requirement to use them to keep
your car running.  The few times I used the "Mustang
Experts" (here in NJ) I found them to be overpriced,
and arrogant.  For the majority of DeLorean vendors,
this is not the case at all.

FWIW, my DeLorean ownership has been a better
experience than Mustang ownership...  Now, if I just
had a DeLorean convertible I would be all set!!

--- sandorp1 <piszar_at_dml_sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Marc, that is while you are SHOWING your car!  There
> are STANDARDS 
> for any car when you are SHOWING it!  It has nothing
> to do with 
> arrogance.  When you show a Mustang it needs to meet
> MCA standards.  
> When you show a D in a Concours event it needs to
> meet Concours 
> standards.  That has nothing to do with arrogance
> either.  
> 
> What I was talking about was a general smart-alecky
> attitiude that 
> pervades many posts in the D forums when it comes to
> vendors, tech 
> advice, responding to others, etc.  It had ZERO to
> do with showing 
> cars.
> 
> Thanks for your response.
> 
> 
> Sandor
> # 3002
> 



	
		
__________________________________ 
Yahoo! for Good - Make a difference this year. 
http://brand.yahoo.com/cybergivingweek2005/





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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2006 13:27:44 -0600
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Radiator

Is there only 2 versions of the Delorean Radiator, the stock 2 core 
plastic and the aftermarket 3 core metal with a pep-cock/drain plug on 
the drivers side on the bottom?

Mark V





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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2006 20:55:09 +0100
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: Problems


1. Renault 7700732507, from R25 or A310....

3. Emission stuff - what garbage are you talking about ?
there is only the cat and the frequency valve, why do they bother you ?

Elvis



Hi guys need your help again.

And a happy New Year to you all.

1.Manual gearbox : What is the cross ref Pt No for the reverse 
llight switch, or what other vehicles was it used on?

2. Have a slight miss/hessitation, happend the other day after 
washed engine but after a short drive and a rest it cleared. Got the 
engine wet again but this one has stayed, taken car out for 3 good 
runs, seems OK on a steady throttle but hessitates on acceleration. 
I have changed the fuel filter.

2. Emmission stuff, what has to be done to remove all this garbage, 
you cannot see the motor because of al the crap fitted!!!!

Cheers

Jim






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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 18:50:41 -0000
From: "turbodelorean" <dmcfan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: #6195 for sale

I would just like to make a post stating that I have decided to sell my 
car and not change my mind this time. It is in the for sale section for 
everyone to look at. If you or someone you know is looking for an 
excellent DeLorean this is it. There is not one issue with my car and 
once you buy you can just enjoy the car instead of putting thousands of 
dollars in parts and restoration to get another DeLorean to where mine 
is. I will miss it and I hope it will go to an owner that truely 
appreciates these cars. Even once my car is sold I will still be a 
member of this board and I thank all of you that have helped me during 
my ownership. Thanks!

Peter Kuchan







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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2006 12:48:39 -0600
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Improved Automatic Transmission Computer

They will have to chime in on that one. I rather have them give you 
details about it. All I really can say is I have seen it installed on a 
car and last i heard it was working perfect.

Mark V



On Jan 1, 2006, at 1:05 AM, Greg Zapf wrote:

> Who offers it and how much!?  Last I checked, more than one were in
> development, but none released yet.  And I'm about to perform surgery
> on mine yet again, so the timing is great.
>
> --Greg
> #2894
>
> On 12/31/05, DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com> wrote:
>> Yes there is an improved shift computer, i have seen it!
>>
>> Mark V

>> On Dec 31, 2005, at 4:00 PM, David Teitelbaum wrote:
>>
>>> There is no "improved" version of the shift computer.




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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 20:40:46 -0000
From: "Tell you if you ask." <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: There's no knowing the weather.

Now that I have some other vehicles in my stable, I took advantage 
of that fact to store my DeLorean for the winter nearly 4 months 
ago. We had some early snow that fooled me into thinking a brutal 
winter was in the making.

Well it's Jan 1st and it's 50 degrees and sunny. Unable to resist, I 
pulled the cover off and thew a fresh battery in it. It fired right 
up like I had driven it yesterday and after about 20 seconds of 
hunting, the idle settled down exactly where it should (with a 
functional Lambda system even!). It drove perfectly around the block 
and I buttoned it down again.

Considering the absolute disaster this car was when I bought it, 
it's nice to know that all my hard work wasn't in vain. Even though 
I've owned for 4 years now, I haven't forgotten all the people who 
were so generous with advice, labor, parts, tools and workspace that 
made this possible. The list is too long to post here. You know who 
you are so thanks again.

Sincerely,

Rich A.
#5335







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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 20:24:26 -0000
From: "Mike Bosworth" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Jacking up Car....

Hi All

Seeing as the question of where to jack up of the car seems to come
up pretty regulary, and as my car is up on stands at the mo whilst i
do my winter bits, i have added a piece to the bottom of my Tech
page explaining how i lift the front end up, pictures speak a
thousand words and all that. I hear the mention of jacking up the
car in the middle of the front cross brace but have yet to find a
jack 'skinny' enough to get under the car from the front. On my car
with stock front springs yes i could do this, but since i put in my
lowered springs its too low to get one under now.

Any how heres my little write up....

http://www.orgsites.com/tx/bozzzydmc/_pgg6.php3


Kind Regards and a Happy New Year to all!

Mike
#2001/403
Yorkshire Uk







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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2006 15:10:27 -0600
From: Chris Murley <qumefox_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Problems

lamborghinijim wrote:

>2. Emmission stuff, what has to be done to remove all this garbage,
>you cannot see the motor because of al the crap fitted!!!!
>
>Cheers
>
>Jim
>
>
Nothing can be done.. all the 'crap' on the engine is required for it to
run, not for emissions.  About the only two visible components you lose
by getting rid of the lambda controls (emissions stuff) are the
frequency valve and the catalytic converter.  The fuel distributor, CPR,
cold start valve, etc, are still required for the fuel system to work,
lambda or not. About the only way to get rid of this stuff would be to
get you a carburated intake and just use a carb instead of fuel
injection.  That or piece together an EFI system.  In both reguards,
unless you know what your doing and what your getting into, your best
off leaving it alone.

While I do agree the K-jet FI is ugly as sin, if you get rid of it and
switch to something else, as with any extreme modifications, you'll lose
alot of the fuel system related support and advice you get here with the
stock system because no one will really know what you have or have done
to your car but you, and will have no experience to draw from to help
you out.  This alone is one of the primary reasons i'm not really doing
much customizing to the drivetrain of my own D. While I do have decent
mechanical skills, I don't want to lose the wealth of knowledge
available here if something breaks.

--

Chris
VIN# 03209
http://badger.brazi.net/index.pl/delorean



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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 20:50:04 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Problems

1. The reverse light switch is used on all the other Deloreans.
(Manual only)

2. Remove the ignition wires at the spark plugs and use compressed air
to blow out the water. If that doesn't help replace the ignition wires
and spark plugs.

3. Actually most of the "cr-p" is NOT emission related directly,
mostly for improved warm-up performance (and reduced emmisons during
that time). I recomend you get the origional stock systems running as
they should BEFORE you go modifying things. It is a whole lot easier
to get a stock set-up running right than something you cobble
together. Once you leave stock it is difficult for anyone to give you
advice and you may have to use non-stock parts. The PRV is a very
clean running engine without a smog pump and other things that have
been used to try to clean up a dirty engine. One thing that "may"
improve performance is soemthing you can't even see easily. There have
been claims that removing the catalytic convertor improves performance.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "lamborghinijim" <lamborghinijim_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
>
> Hi guys need your help again.
> 
> And a happy New Year to you all.
> 
> 








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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 16:19:26 -0500
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Improved Automatic Transmission Computer (Long)

On Jan 1, 2006, at 11:30 AM, doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com wrote:

> I know I  read about
> someone discussing a digitally controlled Automatic Transmission   
> Computer (ATC)
> using a PIC computer.  Somehow I think that is overkill, but  maybe  
> its just
> that I'm an analog kind of guy, though.

Well, calling a PIC a "computer" is kind of misleading.  It is a very  
popular family of embedded processor chips, some of them very low- 
end.  A PIC powerful enough for this purpose can be had in small  
quantities for $2-3, and one would need very few additional  
components. Hardly overkill.  Of course, it is always easier to do  
what you know how to do, but objectively, if one were to start from  
scratch, in this day and age a digital solution is a no-brainer, just  
on the basis of cost. And it would also be much easier to "tweak" and  
to add features such as multiple shift patterns, performance  
reporting to a "car computer", diagnostics, etc.

An open-source project in this area would be great-fun, and I suspect  
a lot of people would chip in.  ...must resist time sink.....  :-)

--Pete Lucas
   VIN #06703




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 02 Jan 2006 00:02:48 -0000
From: "firedude38" <FireDude38_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Would you buy?

I just came across a 1981 Delorean for sale with 16,800 miles.  The 
seller is the original owner.  He is some rich guy with too many 
toys.  He drives the car 5 miles every month.  The car has received no 
upgrades at all. What would be gtreat price?  Also, how much would it 
cost to upgrade the car?  I know it needs relay kit, major service etc.

Any suggestions would be great.








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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 02 Jan 2006 00:44:47 -0000
From: "Michael Townsley" <michaeltownsley_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Automobile Transporter Question


I am going to be sending a car from Connecticut to Arkansas and I was 
wondering if there are folks on the DML that had a positive experience 
with a particular transporter that they would recommend I check out for 
the job. Thank you.








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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 02 Jan 2006 01:16:26 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Problems

lamborghinijim wrote:

>1.Manual gearbox : What is the cross ref Pt No for the reverse 
>llight switch, or what other vehicles was it used on?
>  
>
In SA, probably easiest to fin done for a late Lotus Esprit. Anything 
from teh S2 onwards used the UN1 box. A lot of the older Renault sused 
them too, eg 25 turbo.

>2. Have a slight miss/hessitation, happend the other day after 
>washed engine but after a short drive and a rest it cleared. Got the 
>engine wet again but this one has stayed, taken car out for 3 good 
>runs, seems OK on a steady throttle but hessitates on acceleration. 
>I have changed the fuel filter.
>
Errm. It could be a lot of things. Check the lambda system's working 
first, check your CPR's okay.It's usually one of the two.

>2. Emmission stuff, what has to be done to remove all this garbage, 
>you cannot see the motor because of al the crap fitted!!!!
>
Actually the only bit related to the emissions is the little buzzy valve 
under the air box. The European carb'd engine only put out 2hp more than 
its K-Jet equivalent, so don't exoect miracles by removing it all.

Best Wishes

Martin






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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 02 Jan 2006 01:18:58 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Automobile Transporter Question

We always use www.tgal.us for transatlantic shipping. They do domestic 
stuff as well

Martin

Michael Townsley wrote:

>I am going to be sending a car from Connecticut to Arkansas and I was 
>wondering if there are folks on the DML that had a positive experience 
>with a particular transporter that they would recommend I check out for 
>the job. Thank you.
>  
>






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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 02 Jan 2006 02:02:55 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: Improved Automatic Transmission Computer (coming soon)

List,

I know it has been a long time coming for many of you, but there
is a new Automatic Transmission Shift Computer that is now in the
final stages of Beta testing.  As many of you know, I have been
working on this project with the help of many members of the DML
and DeLorean community and there is finally a replacement solution
to a problem that has been "patch and wait for the next failure".

I will be posting more details as soon as the paperwork is done
with the company that will be providing this and other new items.
The initial release will not be available as a user-install item,
since transmission inspection and/or service will be required and
a full module/cable harness core exchange will be required.  The
new unit will be available for installation in the Midwest first,
with other installation locations to follow.  The initial version
of this unit will only function with stock shift points.

I hope this item will help many get their DeLoreans ready to drive
to DCS 2006 for a new record number of DeLoreans attending an event.

Later,
Rich W.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, doctorDHD_at_dml_a... wrote:
>  
> Steve,
>  
> Great timing.  I was thinking of the same question.  I know I  read 
about 
> someone discussing a digitally controlled Automatic Transmission  
Computer (ATC) 
> using a PIC computer.  
>
> snip <








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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 02 Jan 2006 03:55:40 -0000
From: "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Fuel Filter Replacement

I searched the archives but couldn't find anything, so I must be the 
only idiot who can't correctly replace a fuel filter. I reconnected 
everything but I can't stop a leak from the bottom of the filter 
where the rigid line meets the filter. It seeps out through the back 
of the nut from the rigid line. I have been easing it this way and 
that trying to get the perfect angle with the rigid line, it looks 
nice and seated in the filter opening when I start screwing the nut 
on. Got the nut fully threaded as far as it would go and it is still 
leaking. What is the catch? How do I properly reconnect it so there 
is no leak? Back to the garage to try some more while I wait. Thanks 
for any help on this, I really need to leave to go back to 
Mississippi tomorrow :(

Also, thanks everyone for all the advice on removing the gas tank. I 
finally got it out after about an hour of jumping on it from above. 
Whoever asked why I was replacing it, it's because something 
happened to the old one where it swelled or something, at least the 
neck of the hole for the fuel sending unit, and the ring wouldn't 
properly screw on. Tried ordering a new ring but had the same 
problem. So whenever the tank would be near full and gas would slosh 
it would come out the bad seal of the sending unit hole. PO told me 
it sat for years and years with gas in it so I think maybe there was 
some expansion of the air in the tank from the gas breaking down and 
going bad that swelled it? I don't even know if that's possible, but 
whatever the reason I have a new tank in now, and one less problem.

Dave
#5968







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