From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2006 3:10 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3056

There are 21 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Problems
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

2. Re: Automobile Transporter Question
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

3. Re: Automobile Transporter Question
From: "John Rydholm" <ebondefender_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. RE: Fuel Filter Replacement
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

5. Re: Fuel Filter Replacement (update)
From: "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_gmail.com>

6. Goodyear NTC's For Sale
From: "carpenter12740" <mattdcarpenter_at_dml_msn.com>

7. Jetronic Test gauges instructions?
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>

8. Cigarette Lighter Short and Arm Rest Removal
From: "birdwell77095" <birdwells_at_dml_usa.net>

9. Missfire
From: "lamborghinijim" <lamborghinijim_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. Re: Re: Fuel Filter Replacement
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

11. Barrett-Jackson auction
From: BondAtomic_at_dml_aol.com

12. Re: Improved Automatic Transmission Computer (coming soon)
From: "gullwingmag" <gullwing-magazine_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

13. exhaust problem
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

14. Re: Delorean mug
From: "robert parker" <roberthparker_at_dml_hotmail.com>

15. Re: Missfire
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

16. Re: Jetronic Test gauges instructions?
From: Cal <thecal_at_dml_optonline.net>

17. Re: Missfire
From: "Tell you if you ask." <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

18. New DeLorean time machine T-Shirts available at BTTF.com
From: "BTTF.com" <stephen_at_dml_bttf.com>

19. Re: Jetronic Test gauges instructions?
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

20. RE: exhaust problem
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

21. factory painted car,
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 02 Jan 2006 04:19:17 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Problems

Are you sure you need a new switch?  Those are usually pretty bullet-proof.
About the only way they fail is if somebody lops of one of the spade lugs.
If both lugs are there, it's easy enough to remove the switch and test it before looking for a new one.

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "lamborghinijim" <lamborghinijim_at_dml_yahoo.com>: -------------- 


> Hi guys need your help again. 
> 
> And a happy New Year to you all. 
> 
> 1.Manual gearbox : What is the cross ref Pt No for the reverse llight 
> switch, or what other vehicles was it used on?
> 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 02 Jan 2006 04:20:25 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Automobile Transporter Question

Two of the better and more well known ones are Passport and Horseless
Carriage. Very important to ask about what insurance they carry and
how much they will cover, don't let anyone tell you your insurance
company will pay. Take pictures BEFORE it goes into the truck. Have a
written contract just in case they "lose" it or it takes a lot longer
than they promised.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd
<martin_at_dml_d...> wrote:
>
> We always use www.tgal.us for transatlantic shipping. They do domestic 
> stuff as well
> 
> Martin
> 
> Michael Townsley wrote:
> 
> >I am going to be sending a car from Connecticut to Arkansas and I was 
> >wondering if there are folks on the DML that had a positive experience 
> >with a particular transporter that they would recommend I check out
for 
> >the job. Thank you.
> >  
> >
>








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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 02 Jan 2006 04:40:32 -0000
From: "John Rydholm" <ebondefender_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Automobile Transporter Question

I went through carmoves.com back in August of 2004 when I got my 
DeLorean. They shipped it all the way from Newport, CA to here in 
Romeo, MI on a small trailer car carrier. The gentleman's name was 
Edwin Gerhardt. It ran me about $895 bucks. Ouch, but I got my car 
no problem. One week advance notice and a 7-14 day turnaround. I 
think mine took about a week.
-Johnny
#10715

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Michael Townsley" 
<michaeltownsley_at_dml_s...> wrote:
>
> 
> I am going to be sending a car from Connecticut to Arkansas and I 
was 
> wondering if there are folks on the DML that had a positive 
experience 
> with a particular transporter that they would recommend I check 
out for 
> the job. Thank you.
>









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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2006 22:45:55 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Fuel Filter Replacement

Dave, Bosch made a construction change sometime back and the part number
normally listed for the DeLorean application won't work. To my knowledge
Bosch no longer makes a fuel filter that will. To be able to use a Bosch
filter or any other filter I made an adapter that goes on the metal line.

http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/fuel-injection.html
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: usndmc
Subject: [DML] Fuel Filter Replacement

I searched the archives but couldn't find anything, so I must be the 
only idiot who can't correctly replace a fuel filter. I reconnected 
everything but I can't stop a leak from the bottom




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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 02 Jan 2006 05:01:54 -0000
From: "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Filter Replacement (update)

I got the filter from a vendor and the little elbow on the bottom of 
the old filter to which the rigid line attaches fit into this 
filter, so I'm guessing it's the right one. 

In looking more carefully, on the rigid metal line, with the gold 
cone tip, the fuel is leaking out the back of the cone tip. I can 
have the nut all the way back on the rigid line away from the 
connection, with the cone seated in the fuel filter hole, and there 
will be no leak from the connection of the hole and the cone, but 
system rest pressure makes fuel slowly seep out between the back of 
the cone and the metal rigid line. Is the nut that secures the 
connection supposed to have a little rubber gasket of some sort at 
its top to prevent this leak from coming out the nut when it is 
tightened down? Or is it possible that in disconnecting the rigid 
line from the old fuel filter the rigid line got pulled away slighty 
from its gold cone tip and opened this leak out the back of the tip? 
I'm pretty confused, and in a world of hurt! Any help is 
tremendously appreciated,

Dave
#5968

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
>
> Where did you get the filter? There were some being sold for a 
while 
> that 
> had the wrong fitting and would not seal at the bottom. Bosch 
> apparently makes 
> the filter two different ways with the same part number, so you 
can't 
> even 
> look at that to check. Generally the DMC vendors ship you the 
right 
> one, if you go to a foreign car parts store with the Bosch part 
> number you may get the wrong one. 
> 
> dave
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> >
> > I searched the archives but couldn't find anything, so I must be 
> the 
> > only idiot who can't correctly replace a fuel filter. I 
reconnected 
> > everything but I can't stop a leak from the bottom of the filter 
> > where the rigid line meets the filter. It seeps out through the 
> back 
> > of the nut from the rigid line. I have been easing it this way 
and 
> > that trying to get the perfect angle with the rigid line, it 
looks 
> > nice and seated in the filter opening when I start screwing the 
nut 
> > on. Got the nut fully threaded as far as it would go and it is 
> still 
> > leaking. What is the catch? How do I properly reconnect it so 
there 
> > is no leak? Back to the garage to try some more while I wait. 
> Thanks 
> > for any help on this, I really need to leave to go back to 
> > Mississippi tomorrow :(
> > 
> > Also, thanks everyone for all the advice on removing the gas 
tank. 
> I 
> > finally got it out after about an hour of jumping on it from 
above. 
> > Whoever asked why I was replacing it, it's because something 
> > happened to the old one where it swelled or something, at least 
the 
> > neck of the hole for the fuel sending unit, and the ring 
wouldn't 
> > properly screw on. Tried ordering a new ring but had the same 
> > problem. So whenever the tank would be near full and gas would 
> slosh 
> > it would come out the bad seal of the sending unit hole. PO told 
me 
> > it sat for years and years with gas in it so I think maybe there 
> was 
> > some expansion of the air in the tank from the gas breaking down 
> and 
> > going bad that swelled it? I don't even know if that's possible, 
> but 
> > whatever the reason I have a new tank in now, and one less 
problem.
> > 
> > Dave
> > #5968
> >
>








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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 02 Jan 2006 06:55:43 -0000
From: "carpenter12740" <mattdcarpenter_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Goodyear NTC's For Sale

I am offering a set of four Goodyear NTC tires which were mounted on 
my DMC when I bought it with 7,500 miles on the clock. The tires are 
25 years old so not roadworthy but perfect for static display 
purposes. Any reasonable offer will be accepted. Buyer is responsible 
for shipping and will ship worldwide. Thanks.  Matt Carpenter  5586  
mattdcarpenter(at)msn.com







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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2006 23:52:59 -0800
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: Jetronic Test gauges instructions?

I see some generic Jetronic troubleshooting guides on the web, but does
someone have the instructions for using a Jetronic K pressure test kit?

Tom
10902




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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 02 Jan 2006 14:07:13 -0000
From: "birdwell77095" <birdwells_at_dml_usa.net>
Subject: Cigarette Lighter Short and Arm Rest Removal

A couple of weeks ago while in a parade I had Christmas lights plugged 
into the cigarette lighter. After a few minutes the lights flickered 
and went out. Later I found that the fuse for the cigarette lighter 
had blown. When I replace the fuse, it blows immediately. So I 
disconnected the lighter and put in the fuse and now all the other 
items on that circuit work fine, such as the radio. I can't see 
anything wrong with the lighter. Should I simply replace the lighter 
or could there be something wrong in the wiring?

Also, how does one remove the central arm rest? I removed the rear 
tray and then removed the two 10mm bolts. I removed the front blact 
panel around the gear stick but the arm rest seems to be bolted down 
in the middle somewhere. I couldn't find screws anywhere keeping it 
down.

Shannon
VIN 16113







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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 02 Jan 2006 14:22:14 -0000
From: "lamborghinijim" <lamborghinijim_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Missfire

Hi guys and thank you all that replied to my post. Perhaps I was a 
bit hasty about the emmision stuff, u see i have cars that have air 
compressors that blow air into the exhausr manifold on 
deacceleration. Yes I checked out my manual and i see most of it is 
the management kit.

Still dont like the evaporative canister thing.

Any way Ive progressed from a 5 cylinder engine to about a 2.5 
cylinder motor.
Found out that getting to the distributor is no 5 min 
job......cleaned cap and replaced leads etc. Put it all back fired 
he up and with much popping and backfiring thru the intake she runs 
like a dog...take foot off gas and she dies.

Re checked spark lead all in correct firing order (according to 
book, No 1 front right and No 4 front left).....so where have I gone 
wrong? 
I think the hoses on the fuel distributor.......does any one have a 
better drawing showing ins/outs/toos and froms than the w/shop 
manual?

Once i sort this out and get her running good.....ignition 
timing....we live some 1500m (4500ft) above sea level, on older cars 
with carbs the pracctice was to advance ignition by 2deg.....anyone 
any thoughts on that?


All the best

Jim










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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 02 Jan 2006 14:21:37 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Fuel Filter Replacement

It sounds like the typical problem of the crush fitting having no more 
crush left in it. I know this won't be of much help, but I have a 
collection of new elbows and they all come with the olive and fitting 
that go over the hard line. I have an "in situe" pipe flaring kit and 
would say that for probably a quarter of the cars I've done a fuel 
filter on, I end up cutting off the old union and flaring a new one in 
its place (of course having the tools and parts to do it make this an 
easier option where perseverance might otherwise work, it's simply 
easier). I've had them where the olive spins but won't crack off, I've 
had them refuse to seal, and so corroded that I was going to break 
something, either in my arm or on the car if I tried any harder!

The elbowx and fittings are really inexpensive, but the pipe flaring kit 
is a lot for just one job

Martin

Dave Swingle wrote:

>Where did you get the filter? There were some being sold for a while 
>that 
>had the wrong fitting and would not seal at the bottom. Bosch 
>apparently makes 
>the filter two different ways with the same part number, so you can't 
>even 
>look at that to check. Generally the DMC vendors ship you the right 
>one, if you go to a foreign car parts store with the Bosch part 
>number you may get the wrong one. 
>
>dave
>  
>







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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2006 00:53:50 EST
From: BondAtomic_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Barrett-Jackson auction

Here's the Banshee, 1 of 2, being auctioned off by Barrett-Jackson. A 
gorgeous car. The link comes with a history lesson for some.

http://www.barrett-jackson.com/events/scottsdale/vehicles/cardetail_list.asp?i
d=181761

John 
4275


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 02 Jan 2006 16:10:48 -0000
From: "gullwingmag" <gullwing-magazine_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Improved Automatic Transmission Computer (coming soon)

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_o...> wrote:

>I hope this item will help many get their DeLoreans ready to drive
>to DCS 2006 for a new record number of DeLoreans attending an event.


So is this to say they "will" be available "in time" for us to have 
them installed before DCS 2006?

Patiently waiting, Ron









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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2006 11:51:12 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: exhaust problem

Hey Group,
 
I have my engine out and I am doing some exhaust work on it.  I have  
uploaded a file to the yahoogroups photo section under the folder '11596' for  you to 
view.  You can see that this port has me worried.  the bottom  left corner is 
dimpled in the aluminum and the upper left stud hole appears to  be corroded. 
 To my knowledge this port was not leaking but I am not 100%  sure. I pulled 
the engine because of a blown gasket on the other side of the  engine.  The 
only way this one was leaking is if it wasn't ticking while it  leaked which is 
what tipped me off to the other port which appears to be just  fine but was 
ticking like a tractor.  The stud hole is pitted until about  1/8" deep where 
the threads start.  
 
Should I be worried about this stuff?  What should I do/what CAN I  do?  At 
this point bringing the engine to a machine shop is a last resort.  I don't 
have a truck or cherry picker, but if I have no other option besides  pulling the 
head then that is what I might do.  I have never pulled a head  before, how 
difficult is that?
 
Any opinions or advice appreciated!
This project just keeps getting bigger and bigger!
 
Andy
 
Fargo, ND  
1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 02 Jan 2006 17:36:12 +0000
From: "robert parker" <roberthparker_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Delorean mug

   Greetings to all!   I received a mug for Christmas with a head-on photo 
of a DMC on it.  Sitting on a beach, doors open, lights on, surf in 
background.  Lovely mug!  Just curious:  anyone want to raise their hand and 
claim the photo?     I shall enjoy drinking my tea out of it.  The mug was 
made in England, though that may be inconsequential.   So, I could be 
staring at YOUR Delorean.     Drive Stainless (but not while drinking)       
  Robert  VIN  6924







To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at 
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links










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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 02 Jan 2006 20:49:09 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Missfire

It is very tight working in the area by the distributer. When I do I
always check around to see if I knocked any vacuum hoses loose. You
could also have dislodged the tube for the idle motor. It can be
easily  checked by looking inside past the air sensor. You should be
able to see the cut edge sticking through the "O" ring. Make sure the
frequency valve is buzzing on the right valve cover. If it doesn't the
engine will run like sh-t. The vapor cannister doesn't do much. Check
the hoses to it and make sure the large one comong out of the bottom
isn't plugged up. You can also change the filter on the bottom. I
would leave it hooked up, it prevents fuel fumes from getting into the
passenger compartment and it prevents overpressurizing the fuel tank.
Also make sure the rotor is seated all the way down and the cap is
snapped into place correctly.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "lamborghinijim" <lamborghinijim_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
>
> Hi guys and thank you all that replied to my post. Perhaps I was a 
> bit hasty about the emmision stuff, u see i have cars that have air 
> compressors that blow air into the exhausr manifold on 
>









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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 02 Jan 2006 15:53:32 -0500
From: Cal <thecal_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Jetronic Test gauges instructions?

You mean what to look for? The workshop manual has a section on all the 
various numbers you should read with the tester in different positions.

Tom Tait wrote:

>I see some generic Jetronic troubleshooting guides on the web, but does
>someone have the instructions for using a Jetronic K pressure test kit?




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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 02 Jan 2006 21:10:21 -0000
From: "Tell you if you ask." <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Missfire

Regarding your firing order...

When you say "front" are you referring to the front of the car or 
front of the engine? Due to the rear engine configuration, they 
aren't the same thing.

The cylinder order is shown below as per page C:02:07:

     ---front of vehicle---
          4        1
          5        2
          6        3
     ---rear of vehicle---

The firing order is: 1, 6, 3, 5, 2, 4 per page C:01:01 of the manual.

Regarding the fuel line installation order, -technically- the 6 
injector lines can be installed in any order around the top of the 
fuel distributor because it's mechanical and when the plunger 
travels inside, the same amount of fuel is supposed to be delivered 
to all 6 ports at the same time. The supply, return, cold start and 
recirculate for the frequency valve locations are more critical. A 
correct picture can be found here: 

http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/fuelhoses.htm

and in case you didn't know, a wealth of technical info can be found 
here: 

http://www.dmcnews.com/techmain.htm

Hope this helps.

Rich A.
#5335


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "lamborghinijim" 
<lamborghinijim_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>
> Hi guys and thank you all that replied to my post...... Found out that getting to the distributor is no 5 min 
> job......cleaned cap and replaced leads etc. Put it all back fired 
> he up and with much popping and backfiring thru the intake





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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 02 Jan 2006 21:14:02 -0000
From: "BTTF.com" <stephen_at_dml_bttf.com>
Subject: New DeLorean time machine T-Shirts available at BTTF.com

BTTF.com is pleased to announce the availability of several brand 
new 'Back to the Future' shirt designs from Thunder Creek, who is known 
for leading the industry with their trend-setting high-end quality 
clothing and premium products. Their licensing relationship with 
Universal Studios has made it possible for fans to purchase a wide 
assortment of licensed retro '80s designs from the series in various 
sizes directly from our online store (http://www.bttf.com/store/). 

Through our special arrangement with Thunder Creek, we're now able to 
price these shirts very competitively, and we're confident that you'll 
find them to be among the lowest priced officially licensed 'Back to 
the Future' shirts found anywhere on the internet. All sizes are 
currently priced at $12.88 each ($14.88 for 2XL) plus S/H. 

Stephen Clark
BTTF.com








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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2006 21:11:47 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Jetronic Test gauges instructions?

 
 
In a message dated 1/2/2006 12:18:16 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com writes:

I see  some generic Jetronic troubleshooting guides on the web, but does
someone  have the instructions for using a Jetronic K pressure test  kit?

Tom
10902


>>>
Everything you need to know is in the shop manual!
Just pick out the right adaptors, hook it up as shown in the shop manual,  
and check for all of the pressures as indicated in the fuel/emissions  section.  
there are four or five things you can check depending on ambient  and 
operating pressure. Don't forget to check rest pressure!
 
Andy
 
Fargo, ND  
1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 02 Jan 2006 15:33:16 -0600
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: exhaust problem

Andy,

It sure looks like perhaps someone's been there ahead of you and done some 
not so good work. (Just a guess.)

NOTE TO LIST: I know the best option is a new head, I really do! But, I'm 
going to offer Andy some ideas for "agricultural" repairs that might 
possibly get him out of the woods without that expense, so please don't come 
at me with pitch forks and torches! ;)

Andy, probably nobody can give you an authoritative answer based on your 
photo and description.
Dealing with a case of corrosion such as this is probably as much art as it 
is science, and seeing the parts up close would possibly result in some 
better ideas on how to handle it. The best fix of course is to replace that 
head, but here are some "take your chances" ideas that fall short of that 
option.

Scenario 1: (the best case scenario) Which is that you can do almost nothing 
to it, put it all back together and not have any problems with it:

On the upper left hole, how good are the threads that start about 1/8 deep? 
Are they nice and clean, or are they also corroded? Also, it is hard to tell 
from your photo, but is that a crack growing out of that same hole at about 
the 9 o'clock position? If there is no crack and the threads are in really 
good shape beginning about 1/8" below the surface you might get away with 
putting a new stainless stud in there with ample (lots) of anti-seize to 
help prevent further corrosion in that spot. If you follow this course of 
action just be sure to fully seat that stud to take maximum advantage of the 
remaining threads, and be sure not to over-torque the nut. (Use a new nut, 
of course!)

On the dimpled metal by the lower left hole, since it wasn't leaking before 
and since the head seems flat right arount the port, it might seal again.

Scenario 2. Head cracked by the upper left hole. The prognosis here is not 
as good as in the first scenario, but you may be able to use some JB Weld to 
strengthen the area around that hole and get away with slapping it back 
together as above and not have any more trouble with it - or not - nobody 
can say for sure.

If you try either of the above fixes, you are, of course, taking a chance 
that after you put it back together it will leak and you can't seal it and 
you start speaking all kinds of French words and spending all kinds of 
American dollars to replace the head anyway. Or you might get lucky and have 
no problems except maybe some sleepless nights as you stare at the ceiling 
wondering if it will hold.

The best fix would be to replace the head of course. Perhaps a good 
automotive machine shop could weld that area and re-drill/tap the stud hole. 
I don't just don't know waht an experienced shop could/would do with your 
problem. I think I would try to get the best close up of that are you can 
and take that picture to a local auto machine shop or two to see what they 
say about it.

Good luck.
Joe Kuchan.


>From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
>Subject: [DML] exhaust problem
>
>I have my engine out and I am doing some exhaust work on it.  I have
>uploaded a file to the yahoogroups photo section under the folder '11596'for  you to view.  You can see that this port has me worried.




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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 03 Jan 2006 03:20:07 -0000
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: factory painted car,

Check out this ebay auction:

http://tinyurl.com/7vot8

The owner claims it was factory painted,or as he says "Delorean" 
painted.
 THE only Deloreans with any kind of factory authorized paint were the 
Lotus prototype mules,and even those were not painted by DMC.
Nice "mint" paint for a 24 yr.old paint job.But of course all Deloreans 
came in ONE color bare Stainless Steel.

cbl







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