From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2006 10:53 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3064

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. WIKIPEDIA's daily feature.
From: KiwiDean_at_dml_aol.com

2. Re: Wheel Styles
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

3. Re: NEED WINDSHIELD
From: "jamesrguk" <James_rg_at_dml_hotmail.com>

4. Re: Wheel Styles
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

5. AW: RE: Upgrading horns
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

6. Re: luggage compartment strut replacement
From: "Dan" <djdanwilson_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Buzzer Defeat ???
From: "Michael Townsley" <michaeltownsley_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

8. Re: Wheel Styles
From: MICHAEL W TOWNSLEY <michaeltownsley_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

9. RE: Dash & Door VIN plates
From: delorean_at_dml_netcom.no

10. Luggage Rack
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

11. Re: Buzzer Defeat ???
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

12. Re: Wheel Styles
From: lordshill_at_dml_aol.com

13. Re: Buzzer Defeat ???
From: Jeff Angwin <jeff_at_dml_delorean.com>

14. Re: Buzzer Defeat ???
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

15. Re: RE: Upgrading horns
From: Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>

16. Re: Wheel Styles
From: Chris Murley <qumefox_at_dml_gmail.com>

17. Re: RE: Dash & Door VIN plates
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

18. HORN ADJUSTMENT
From: mike clemens <rmclemns_at_dml_yahoo.com>

19. DRP is here.
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

20. Re: Luggage Rack
From: dmc82_at_dml_comcast.net

21. DMA 2005 Holiday Party - Website Recap
From: Delorean Mid-Altantic Club <clubevents_at_dml_deloreanmidatlantic.com>

22. RE: NEED WINDSHIELD
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

23. Delorean item
From: "andy" <andyblackmon_at_dml_aol.com>

24. RE: Re: Radiator
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

25. Re: Dash & Door VIN plates
From: "Patrick C." <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2006 02:20:21 EST
From: KiwiDean_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: WIKIPEDIA's daily feature.

The DMC-12 is the featured item on the WIKIPEDIA online encyclopedia.
_http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Main_Page_
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Main_Page) 
 
Dean thomas


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 07 Jan 2006 07:47:12 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Wheel Styles

In addition: I found out last year (but from a not 100% reliable source) that the wheels were actually made by a company in Maidstone, Kent - a  mere 12 miles from my house. And that they went bust 2 years ago. Damn.

Martin

Dave Swingle wrote:

>http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/wheels.html
>
>Check your wheels - it's amazing how many cars have mismatched sets and 
>the owners don't know it. I believe that this is described in a service 
>bulletin but I have not looked it up again to check.
>
>Dave Swingle
>  
>






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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 07 Jan 2006 08:53:13 -0000
From: "jamesrguk" <James_rg_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: NEED WINDSHIELD



Yeah, over hear in the UK there is a company who will make DMC Windshields to order, they can do them in the OEM bronze or Green tint, amazing really just phoning round a few local glass companies I found one who could make them.

They're not overly expensive, I think Martin G, DMC LTD (UK) may have a better deal now, nice to know that this part is still availible.

If it's an insurance job you could probably get the insurance company to cover the cost of the shipping & handling with a bit of clever invoicing.

James RG
England, UK


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
>
> hi all
> 
> yes these are available in the UK. Remanufactured.







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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 07 Jan 2006 07:45:29 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Wheel Styles

I've got a little addition to that... When I bought my project car #4426 I had the wheels refurbished. One of the front centre caps had never fitted properly and I'd always assumed it was the cap. Actually it turned out to be the little groove around the edge of the centre hole was entirely absent on that wheel, meaning the cap never clicked in and sat proud on the wheel. I've seen a few other cars like this since.

Our refurb place kindly cut the groove for me.

Best Wishes

Martin
#1458 - original thin/grey and refurbed as such!
#4426 - thick silver

Dave Swingle wrote:

>http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/wheels.html
>
>Check your wheels - it's amazing how many cars have mismatched sets and 
>the owners don't know it. I believe that this is described in a service 
>bulletin but I have not looked it up again to check.
>
>Dave Swingle
>  
>







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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2006 10:20:34 +0100
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: RE: Upgrading horns

Hey Alex,

I installed these horns here last year:

http://www.deloman.de/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_26&products_i
d=256

Those are louder, have a nice two tone sound (not that mismatched two tones of the original ones when you try to play with the adjustment screw on the back of the horn) easy to install and work perfectly even without an extra Relay.
I don't think (ok, I haven't measured it yet) that the drawn current is excessively higher.
Instead - you only push the button like a second or so - no time at all for the wires to heat up.

The positive thing about those horns is - now they give you "respect" when you push the button, not like my original ones that made children laugh...

Elvis & 6548...sleeping during the winter



The stock 25 year old horns on my car sound like they are working loudly.
They are as loud or louder than all the other stock deloreans I have heard.
  I just want some real LOUD sounding horns.

-Alex
mauibarber_at_dml_hotmail.com







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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 07 Jan 2006 11:01:49 -0000
From: "Dan" <djdanwilson_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: luggage compartment strut replacement

Thanks everyone - Matt Olans was able to help me resolve the matter.
Turns out the removal of the incorrect struts was not cut-n-dry. The DMCH replacement struts are now in place, and I could not be happier with their performance.

For the record - My post was not meant as a complaint about lack of support from DMCH. For most people who would order parts for a car like this, instructions are not necessary, and would be a waste of paper. For others, the few steps covered in their .pdf file is enough to point them in the right direction. I'm unfortunately one of the few who needs a lot of hand holding from people who are more experienced when it comes to stuff like this due to my skill level. That's why I posted. I'm not blaming Houston for my inability to figure out something so elementary. Although I've made a living in the automotive industry, my specialty was getting parts to fail, not repairing them.

Dan W.
VIN 16192
AZ-D





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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 07 Jan 2006 12:58:28 -0000
From: "Michael Townsley" <michaeltownsley_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Buzzer Defeat ???


I would like to know how to defeat the door open and seat belt buzzer because it sometimes goes off for no reason and it is bothersome if you are working on the car with the doors open. 

I defeated it for a while by pulling the fuse but that also defeats the horns and the Hazard Warning Flashers. I have tried disconnecting the wiring to the Buzzer but then other wiring related problems occur.

I have seen D's in parades with their doors up and no buzzer going off so there must be some way to it.

Mike Townsley
Vin # 17043








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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2006 04:34:41 -0800 (PST)
From: MICHAEL W TOWNSLEY <michaeltownsley_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Wheel Styles

Does anyone know the name, location, etc of the orginal wheel sourcer/supplier(s) to Delorean for the DMC 12.



Dave Swingle <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com> wrote: 
 Shannon Yocom reminded me today of our discussion regarding the three distinct wheel styles and colors used on the DeLorean during production. I happen to have some of each in the basement so I whipped up a quick info page to show the difference. 

http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/wheels.html




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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2006 15:02:39 +0100
From: delorean_at_dml_netcom.no
Subject: RE: Dash & Door VIN plates

I don't have the Parts Manual with me right now, but I'm quite sure that the dash VIN plate shown in the manual is the one with the DMC logo and N. Ireland written on it. Just like the one shown in the Photo section. So this would indicate that this was the *intended* plate. Now the question is this - why did the factory change the smart dash VIN plate to the grey or black "boring" one?
These later plates really looks like a fake when compared to the one in the door. In my opinion, the original with the logo and N. Ireland should have been used on all cars.

Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
Norway

VIN # 06759
________________________________________________________________________
> ______________________________________________________________________>    From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_delorean.com>
> Subject: Dash & Door VIN plates (was: Does anyone else have one of 
> these?)
>
> We don't have any blank dash VIN plates, period. We don't have the 
> machine to stamp the numbers on VIN plates, dash or door.
>
> The original part number for the dash VIN plate was 106113 and was 
> aluminum with black logo as the one you have.




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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2006 09:11:53 -0600
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Luggage Rack

I just got my new Luggage Rack from www.delorean.com last week and it looks amazing.

It is funny how a 20+ year old part can still look new as the day it was made.

The Vinyl bag that holds the parts is still soft like it was made yesterday. The straps that hod your things down to the Luggage Rack are also still soft just like new.

They still have over 100 left i believe so they are still available if you want one.


Mark V





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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 07 Jan 2006 16:31:31 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Buzzer Defeat ???

The simplist method is to just pull one of the wires off of the door
switch on the driver's door that controls the buzzer. Since there are
2 switches there (one for the lights and 1 for the buzzer) try the
switches first so you know which is which.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Michael Townsley"
<michaeltownsley_at_dml_s...> wrote:
>
> 
> I would like to know how to defeat the door open and seat belt buzzer 
> because it sometimes goes off for no reason and it is bothersome if you 
> are working on the car with the doors open. 
> 
> I defeated it for a while by pulling the fuse but that also defeats t








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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2006 11:35:55 EST
From: lordshill_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Wheel Styles

 
Dave..I think I heard at one time that wheel type was determined by what  the 
VIN was.  Would you have any information on that?  I have an early  vin and I 
think I have the correct wheel (0893 and dark grey and  thin.  Correct?  
Thanks
 
Roy
0893 
 
 
 
In a message dated 1/7/2006 2:06:06 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com writes:

http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/wheels.html

Check your wheels  - it's amazing how many cars have mismatched sets and 
the owners don't  know it. I believe that this is described in a service 
bulletin but I have  not looked it up again to check. 






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 07 Jan 2006 09:06:41 -0800
From: Jeff Angwin <jeff_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Buzzer Defeat ???

Defeating the buzzer is really quite simple.

There are two door switches on the passenger side. One is for the 
buzzer, and one for the door marker lights. Simply reach behind the 
switches and remove one wire from one switch. It will either turn off 
the buzzer or the light. Of course if it turns off the light, replace 
the wire and pull one wire from the other switch.

If, as you say, defeating the buzzer this way causes other problems... 
(I don't have the wiring diagram with me now, so I'm not sure how that 
can be...) Then you can disconnect the wire directly at the buzzer. The 
buzzer is located on a plate that is attached to the steering column 
bracket, left hand side. The plate has three or so modules mounted on 
it, the buzzer is one of these. Disconnect one wire from the buzzer there.

Jeff Angwin
VIN 3034


Michael Townsley wrote:
> I would like to know how to defeat the door open and seat belt buzzer 
> because it sometimes goes off for no reason and it is bothersome if you 
> are working on the car with the doors open. 
>
> I defeated it for a while by pulling the fuse but that also defeats the 
> horns and the Hazard Warning Flashers. I have tried disconnecting the 
> wiring to the Buzzer but then other wiring related problems occur.
>
> I have seen D's in parades with their doors up and no buzzer going off 
> so there must be some way to it.
>
> Mike Townsley
> Vin # 17043
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>  
>
>
>   






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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2006 10:15:08 -0800
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Buzzer Defeat ???

Mike,

There are two little plunger switches on the driver's side, front of
the door. The door pushes them in when you close it. One of them
controls the buzzer and the other controls the lights. Disconnect one
of the wires from one; if the lights go out, plug it back in and
disconnect the other. Very quick & easy fix.

-Ryan

On 1/7/06, Michael Townsley <michaeltownsley_at_dml_sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> I would like to know how to defeat the door open and seat belt buzzer
> because it sometimes goes off for no reason and it is bothersome if you
> are working on the car with the doors open.
>
> I defeated it for a while by pulling the fuse but that also defeats the
> horns and the Hazard Warning Flashers. I have tried disconnecting the
> wiring to the Buzzer but then other wiring related problems occur.
>
> I have seen D's in parades with their doors up and no buzzer going off
> so there must be some way to it.
>
> Mike Townsley
> Vin # 17043
>


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Message: 15
Date: Sat, 07 Jan 2006 10:21:21 -0800
From: Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RE: Upgrading horns

Alex,
Here is a quick guide to installing a relay for the horns. If you are still 
uncertain about this, I would recommend finding somebody comfortable with 
automotive electrics to help you wire.

First buy a basic automotive relay (Radio Shack #275-226). There are 4 
terminals on this relay. Two perform the actual switching of the new horn's 
power and the other 2 power the coil. Take the existing power wire that 
went to one of the horns and connect it to a coil terminal. Now run a wire 
from the other coil terminal to a grounding point on the car. Now when you 
press the horn button, the relay will click on and off.

Next you need to run a heavy gauge wire from the battery to the relay (see 
if the horn manufacture recommends a minimum gauge). Make sure you put a 
in-line fuse by the battery as you don't want to start a fire if the wire 
shorts out! Once you get the wire to the relay, you need to connect it to 
one of the switch terminals. Now just run another wire from the last switch 
terminal to the positive side of the new horns. Make sure the horns are 
grounded and you should be set.

The relay works as a secondary switch. Pressing the horn button in the car 
simply activates the relay. The relay will now switch on the cars using the 
high power wire that you just ran from the battery. If you don't want the 
relay in front of the car, you can relocate it and power the coil off the 
horn switch inside the car. You will just have to find where to tap the 
horn wire, but the rest of the wiring will remain the same.

Hope this helps,
Chris
VIN 4099

At 05:21 AM 1/7/2006 +0000, you wrote:
>The stock 25 year old horns on my car sound like they are working loudly.
>They are as loud or louder than all the other stock deloreans I have heard.
>   I just want some real LOUD sounding horns.
>
> From my understanding if you just hook up louder horns and they draw too
>much current (even with car on) you can fry your wires in the steering
>column/horn switch.  I dont want this to happen.  I read in past postings
>that this happned to, "thereallasvegas".  I am confused on how to set up the
>relay.  Do you run all new wiring from the fuse box to the steering column?
>Or is it from the steering column to the horns?  Where does the relay go?
>Is there anyway to set this up without taking the steering wheel off?  These
>are the questions that torment me. :)  Does anybody have pics of the relay
>installed?
>
>Chris or others, if you can walk me through the relay set up I would really
>appreciate it.
>-Alex
>mauibarber_at_dml_hotmail.com





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Message: 16
Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2006 12:34:33 -0600
From: Chris Murley <qumefox_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Wheel Styles

Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd wrote:

>I've got a little addition to that... When I bought my project car #4426
>I had the wheels refurbished. One of the front centre caps had never
>fitted properly and I'd always assumed it was the cap. Actually it
>turned out to be the little groove around the edge of the centre hole
>was entirely absent on that wheel, meaning the cap never clicked in and
>sat proud on the wheel. I've seen a few other cars like this since.
>
>Our refurb place kindly cut the groove for me.
>
>Best Wishes
>
>Martin
>#1458 - original thin/grey and refurbed as such!
>#4426 - thick silver
>
>
This kinda sounds like a good old quality control error to me. The wheel
probably just got missed for some reason when that groove was originally
machined. I know one of my rear wheels has two indents machined in the
fins for the valve stem, one right next to the other. Since my other
rear wheel is normal I assume it was caused by a similar QC error.

--

Chris
VIN# 03209
http://badger.brazi.net/index.pl/delorean



--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.371 / Virus Database: 267.14.15/223 - Release Date: 1/6/2006






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Message: 17
Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2006 12:41:41 -0600
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: RE: Dash & Door VIN plates

They changed them because the tag will blind you in the sunlight.  As we all 
know, the DeLorean dash is great for reflecting on the windshield, and I 
guess those things would be like looking at a mirror in the sun.  That's 
also why many of the early VIN tags that have the logo were painted over 
with black paint.  --But usually the paint can be removed....  [looks at 
Rich  W.]

Jake


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <delorean_at_dml_netcom.no>
Subject: [DML] RE: Dash & Door VIN plates


>I don't have the Parts Manual with me right now, but I'm quite sure that the dash VIN plate shown in the manual is the one with the DMC logo and N. Ireland written on it. Just like the one shown in the Photo section. So this would
> indicate that this was the *intended* plate. Now the question is this - why did the factory change the smart dash VIN plate to the grey or black "boring" one?




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Message: 18
Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2006 10:54:55 -0800 (PST)
From: mike clemens <rmclemns_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: HORN ADJUSTMENT

Hello Group,

Several people have contacted me about the horn
adjustment, so I'll post it for all.

The Delorean horns are MIXO's made in France.  One is
a high note and the other is a low note.  The first
thing you need to do is check to see if the plastic
bell horns are in good condition.  To do this,
disconnect the electrical connections and remove the
horns from their mounting brackets.

Inspect the plastic bell for cracks and corrosion,
especially around the four (4) mounting screws that
hold the metal base to the plastic.  Due to how the
horns are mounted on the car, they are very
susceptible to moisture corrosion.  If a bell is
cracked, then it is best to contact a vendor for a new
one.

If the bell is in good condition, lay it on your
workbench with the mounting bolt facing up.  Take a 12
volt source (I use a lawnmower battery) and connect a
jumper from the negative post to the mounting bolt on
the horn.  Connect another jumper to the positive post
and touch it to the spade connector on the horn.  The
horn should sound if it is in good shape.  If you
don't have the tone or loudness you want, there is a 7
mm bolt head about one inch from the mounting bolt
(opposite side from the spade connector) that is the
adjustment screw.  Just turn it a quarter turn either
way and test again.  If the sound gets better, you are
going the right way and if it is worse, go one half
turn the opposite direction and test again.  Every one
has their own thoughts as to what sounds good so you
will have to be the judge of what you want your horns
to sound like and adjust accordingly.

Now, once you have set both the low and high notes,
you will need another set of jumpers so you can hear
both of them together, just like they will sound on
the car.  After you have hooked up the two negatives,
touch both positive spades at the same time to hear
the horns together.

Now comes a very important part, "re-installation". 
Make sure you have a good solid ground (no corrosion)
when you bolt them back on the car.  Do not face the
bells forward or they will be great moisture
collectors.  Turn them so the opening faces inboard
(towards the radiator) and this way they will resonate
off the car and sound even louder than on the bench. 
(The same principal as the chimes on a grandfather
clock)

If you still have problems, contact me off list with
your phone number and I'll call and help you trouble
shoot.

Mike     TPS      1630


		
__________________________________________ 
Yahoo! DSL  Something to write home about. 
Just $16.99/mo. or less. 
dsl.yahoo.com 





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Message: 19
Date: Sat, 07 Jan 2006 20:53:09 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: DRP is here.

Group, 
" DRP " De Lorean Restoration Pricing. Check it out on the web site 
menu bar. It will help save you even more money over what I'm charging 
VS others. As you know I'm normally available 7 days a week, 12 hours 
a day if I can help.
Check out the terms  Toll free #1-888-278-1629.
Call if you have any futher suggestions.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com

  








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Message: 20
Date: Sat, 07 Jan 2006 19:38:33 +0000
From: dmc82_at_dml_comcast.net
Subject: Re: Luggage Rack

Are these NOS or reproductions?
I thought these were all gone.

Cecil Longwisch
#10663

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com> 

> I just got my new Luggage Rack from www.delorean.com last week and it looks amazing.




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Message: 21
Date: Sat, 07 Jan 2006 15:22:27 -0500
From: Delorean Mid-Altantic Club <clubevents_at_dml_deloreanmidatlantic.com>
Subject: DMA 2005 Holiday Party - Website Recap

Just a quick note to let you all know that the DMA website has been updated
with content from our 2005 Holiday party!
You can see all the info on our website at:
http://www.deloreanmidatlantic.com/updates/updates.htm
 
Enjoy!
 
Delorean Mid-Atlantic Club


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 22
Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2006 15:24:48 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: NEED WINDSHIELD

Steve, Can you let me know. I don't remember the manufactures name, but he
was in the UK.
John Hervey

  

-----Original Message-----
From:blackaddertoo
Subject: Re: [DML] NEED WINDSHIELD

hi all

yes these are available in the UK. Remanufactured.




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Message: 23
Date: Sat, 07 Jan 2006 23:23:41 -0000
From: "andy" <andyblackmon_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Delorean item

In the 18th edition of Uncle John's Bathroom Reader (can be found in 
most book stores)there is a very good read about the Delorean. It has 
some history of the company, the man and of course the famous drug 
deal. Some bad things to say about the car but also some not so bad. A 
nice read with some information I had not seen before, you may wish to 
check it out.

Andy B 3513







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Message: 24
Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2006 15:28:21 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Radiator

Harold, As you said the cooling capacity is about the same between the OE
and new Brass. The problem is we only have one company that is making the
brass replacement. I would like to have another source and aluminum has been
on my mine.
I'll let the group know what I find out.
John

    

-----Original Message-----
From:Harold McElraft
Subject: [DML] Re: Radiator

I have found the cooling for the 3 row replacements and the 2 row 
OEM to be about the same also. However, aluminum should be much more 
efficient. What would one cost? Would you spec it to provide some  
increased cooling capacity?

Harold McElraft - 3354




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Message: 25
Date: Sun, 08 Jan 2006 01:09:13 -0000
From: "Patrick C." <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Dash & Door VIN plates

Like what others speculated, I have a hunch that the change was
because of the sun reflecting off of the bare brushed aluminum and
hitting the windshield.  James Epsey posted some of the original
blueprints on DMCHelp, one of which is for the vin plate exactly like
mine in the photos section with the DMC logo, etc.  Another blueprint
was for a black VIN plate with silver text on it without a DMC logo,
and the third was for the VIN plates like most of us have on our
dashboards.  I wonder if any plates were made with the black paint and
silver text.  Perhaps one of those is floating around out there somewhere.

-Patrick C. 
Vin 1880

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, delorean_at_dml_n... wrote:
Now the question is this - why did
> the factory change the smart dash VIN plate to the grey or black
"boring" one?
> These later plates really looks like a fake when compared to the one
in the
> door. In my opinion, the original with the logo and N. Ireland
should have been
> used on all cars.
> 
> Best wishes
> Stian Birkeland
> Norway




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