From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 7:44 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3069

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Re: Automatic with a high pitch hum when above 45%
From: "Matt Carpenter" <mattdcarpenter_at_dml_msn.com>

2. Re: Eurofest
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Re: Re: "Bench Bleeding"
From: "Ed B." <mr.pants_at_dml_ca.inter.net>

4. Re: Eurofest
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_delorean.com>

5. DCS Preview
From: "Patrick C." <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>

6. Re: Eurofest
From: "John Dore" <dmcjohn_at_dml_hotmail.com>

7. Re: Dash & Door VIN plates
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. Re: "Bench Bleeding"
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

9. Re: Eurofest
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>

10. Re: DCS Preview
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

11. Diving Eurofest
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Re: Re: "Bench Bleeding"
From: "Ed B." <mr.pants_at_dml_ca.inter.net>

13. Speedometer bouncing
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

14. Re: Speedometer bouncing
From: ComposerZelgadis_at_dml_aol.com

15. RE: Speedometer bouncing
From: "Matt Carpenter" <mattdcarpenter_at_dml_msn.com>

16. Re: Re: Eurofest
From: Jamie Hamlin <jamiepierce2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. Re: Speedometer bouncing
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

18. Idle speed too high - other causes?
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>

19. Re: Body Dies in Galway Bay (was Eurofest)
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

20. Re: Speedometer bouncing
From: "Patrick C." <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>

21. Re: Front bumper problem
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

22. Re: Idle speed too high - other causes?
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>

23. AW: Idle speed too high - other causes?
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

24. Re: Speedometer bouncing
From: "Matt Carpenter" <mattdcarpenter_at_dml_msn.com>

25. Re: Idle speed too high - other causes?
From: "Chris " <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 09 Jan 2006 20:30:24 -0700
From: "Matt Carpenter" <mattdcarpenter_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Automatic with a high pitch hum when above 45%

I'm going to take everyone's advice and check a number of things, including the final drive fluid and bearings.  I'll make sure to check the differential fluid as well.  Thanks!  Matt Carpenter...5586


>From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Re: Automatic with a high pitch hum when above 45%
>Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 02:44:00 -0000
>
>Have you checked the fluid in the differential?
>
>Harold McElraft - 3354
>
>
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "carpenter12740"
><mattdcarpenter_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> >
> > I could use some feedback on a noise my D has been making since I 
> > recently bought her.
> >
> > The car is an automatic with 8,400 miles and seems to make a
>subtle
> > high pitched humming when I'm exceeding 45mph or so, only on 
> > acceleration. When I take the foot off the gas, no noise. Tran
>fluid
> > always reads normal when engine is warm.  Radio is off so there's
>no
> > interference issues.
> >
> > Any suggestions or thoughts would be much appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Matt Carpenter
> > 5586
> > az-d.org




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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2006 19:33:13 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Eurofest

OOPS!

That was, DIVE trip...  as in, SCUBA.  


--- Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:

> Still unsure if I will be going or not...
> 
> However, a few months back I asked about anyone interested in planning 
> a drive trip to Galway bay to visit the DeLorean body dies...
> 
> Anyone interested?  That would me incentive (for me) to go.
>


		
__________________________________________
Yahoo! DSL  Something to write home about. 
Just $16.99/mo. or less. 
dsl.yahoo.com 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Mon, 09 Jan 2006 23:38:49 -0500
From: "Ed B." <mr.pants_at_dml_ca.inter.net>
Subject: Re: Re: "Bench Bleeding"

> Harold McElraft wrote:
>
>Are you sure the rear brakes are working ok? That is, the pistons 
>are not stuck, lines are not blocked, etc. Have you tried a vacuum 
>bleed at the rear calipers until the fluid is clear?
>

Yep... the rear callipers are new (not refurbed... new) & working 
properly.  The lines are good: no blockage, no swelling, etc.  I also 
swapped back to the old callipers with the same results.  (In fact, 
there's nothing wrong with the old callipers & the old pads were next to 
new as well, but I had a new set of complete brakes/pads that was part 
of a bulk purchase I made, so that's why I put them on when I had the 
wheels off to do some other work on the suspension).

I definitely properly bled the callipers the old-fashioned way); clean, 
fresh fluid throughout, no air bubbles, several bleedings.  I changed: 
master cylinder, callipers, pads & rotors, so it could be any of these, 
although I know the callipers are good & all the rotors & pads were new, 
purchased from DMCH.  I did not bleed the master cylinder because I 
thought it would bleed with the system, as in my other cars, so I will 
try this when I get her out again in the spring-time (it's in storage 
now).  If it does not fix the weak rear braking problem, at least it 
will be properly bled and I can eliminate this as a possibility.

I drove the car for about 800km (500 miles) after the brakes were 
swapped, so everything should have "broken in".  Rob at PJ grady 
suggested checking the pads & rotors so, for kicks, I put in the old 
pads and the braking was BETTER.  The "new" pads were all smoothed out 
by the rotors.  Could the rotors possibly be to blame for the poor 
grip?  I sanded the surface before putting them on; I assume they are 
"ready-to-wear", so to speak, no??  They look totally new still; no 
marks.  Again, in spring-time when I bleed the m.c., I'll swap back the 
old rotors and see if this is the culprit.

Right now, I know I should try re-bleeding the m.c. properly, then the 
callipers & that way I'll know I'm starting off with a correctly bled 
system.

Thanks for everyone's suggestions so far... with a new suspension & 
steering bits and a lot of hard work, I need to drive my baby and not 
worry about stopping issues!

- ed

1982 DMC-12 [11594]
1986.5 928S
1990 Coupe Quattro 20V



>
>  
>
>>I,too, have less than stellar braking since I replaced my master 
>>cylinder, rotors, pads & callipers.  So bad, in fact, that with 
>>    
>>
>the car 
>  
>
>>up on jack stands and the engine & tranny in 1st gear idling (no 
>>accelerator applied), all my weight on the brake pedal will just 
>>    
>>
>barely 
>  
>
>>stop the rear rotors from turning.  
>>




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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 04:33:40 -0000
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Eurofest

"Drive" trip or "dive" trip? There was some talk last year or maybe
even in 2004 about them being raised, did that ever happen? I'd go
with you on a "drive" trip, but not a "dive" trip.

James

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>
> Still unsure if I will be going or not...
> 
> However, a few months back I asked about anyone
> interested in planning a drive trip to Galway bay to
> visit the DeLorean body dies...
> 
> Anyone interested?  That would me incentive (for me)
> to go.
>








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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 05:50:14 -0000
From: "Patrick C." <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: DCS Preview

I've been meaning to give DMLers a rough idea of what will be at the
DCS in Chicago.  I have helped Ken out in his warehouse a few times in
the last few weeks, and I was stunned at the amount of framed pictures
he has that will be on display at the show.  There are well over 100
VERY impressive pictures of JZD, rare D's, the factory, etc, etc, etc
that will be hanging on the walls at the show.  Many of these pictures
I had never seen before.  

Ken also has purchased many glass jeweler-style display cases that
will house rare DeLorean memorabilia, historic documents, and whatever
other rare artifacts owners are willing to loan to be displayed at the
show.  If you have anything unique that you are willing to display,
shoot Ken an email.

This is just a small sampling of what I have seen so far, but I can
say without a doubt that this will be the best DCS yet.  

With the anticipated display of one of the Gold plated DeLoreans,
Proto 1, and Johnny Carson's former DeLorean, I'm counting down the
days until June 15th.  Make your reservations early, and remember
there is a Corvette show going on at the same time, so other hotels in
the area may fill up quickly if you choose not to stay in one of the
200 set aside DeLorean rooms at Pheasant Run.  

See you all in June,
-Patrick C.
Vin #1880








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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 12:34:33 -0000
From: "John Dore" <dmcjohn_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Eurofest

Hi Marc,

My friend runs the website www.scuba.ie

and would be a good place to start organising a dive over here in 
Ireland!

Let me know if you want me to check into anything for you.

See you over here in a few months hopefully!

John Dore, Ireland.

http://www.delorean.ie

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>
> Still unsure if I will be going or not...
> 
> However, a few months back I asked about anyone
> interested in planning a drive trip to Galway bay to
> visit the DeLorean body dies...
> 
> Anyone interested?  That would me incentive (for me)
> to go.
> 
> 
> 
> --- alistairmccann <pilot25dmc_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> 
> > Hi everyone
> > 
> > With eurofest only a few months away I decided to
> > start this new group 
> > to welcome you all to Ireland
> > 
> > It will have info on hotels and other places to
> > stay. If you have any 
> > questions on Eurofest and Northern Ireland in
> > general then join now!!!
> > 
> > 
> >
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/deloreanownersofireland/
> > 
> > Cheers
> > 
> > Alistair McCann
> > Pilot25
> > Northern Ireland
>








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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 08:42:48 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Dash & Door VIN plates

I wouldn't sweat it Patrick, as yours will always be an oiginal, and
the rest would just be reproductions.

Just reproductions of a similar design would be so much better looking
than the drab black plates we have now.

I'm sure some experimenting with stamping tools would yield a similar
style stamping font.

Interesting to see if anyone decides to reproduce this piece. Never
realized it could just as easily be reproduced like on the stinless
steel labels.

I'd for sure buy three!


-Joe O'Brien

2524,
16634,
16851







--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Patrick C." <PRC1216_at_dml_a...> wrote:
>
> I don't plan to assist in the reproduction of this VIN tag, the sole
> reason being it would lower the value of the blank original tag that I
> have.  
> 
> If anyone is interested in purchasing the (what might be the last in
> existance) real deal, shoot me an email at PRC1216(at)aol.com.  I've
> had several offers for $300, but I am holding out for $400, and I'll
> ship it anywhere in the world.  Once someone else owns this rarity,
> they can decide if they would care to send it out to have
> reproductions made.
> 
> Stamping the VIN number in a blank tag does present the real problem,
> and as others mentioned, the state inspection might not like it one
> bit if they detect a new vin plate has been installed on the car.  I'm
> no expert on this subject though.    
> 
> -Patrick C.
> 1880
> 
> 
> > > Message: 1
> > >    Date: Sun, 08 Jan 2006 05:23:05 -0000
> > >    From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_y...>
> > > Subject: Re: Dash & Door VIN plates
> > >
> > > My thoughts exactly Stan. I only wonder if it would eb possible to
> > > reproduce Patricks plate since it is already blank, and then just
> > > stamp out our existing vin number on it.
> > >
> > > It is just so much better looking than the flat black plate we
> have now.
> > >
> > > -Joe O'Brien
> > >
> > > 2524,
> > > 16634,
> > > 16851
> >
>








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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 14:39:15 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: "Bench Bleeding"

Good call - I've seen a couple of cars in the past year where the 
flexible hoses between the calipers and the body are plugged solid. I 
think age is catching up to some of this stuff and it's time to 
replace things like this that you'd never consider a "wear-out" item 
on a newer car. 

First try bleeding the calipers - if you can't get anything (or very 
much) to come out the bleeder, take the line off the caliper and try 
again. I've seen at least a few where you could take the line off the 
caliper, stand on the brake pedal with both feet and nothing would 
come out!

There are several nice SS braided alternatives available from the 
usual (and unusual) vendors now. 

Dave S.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_a...> 
wrote:
>
> Are you sure the rear brakes are working ok? That is, the pistons 
> are not stuck, lines are not blocked, etc. Have you tried a vacuum 
> bleed at the rear calipers until the fluid is clear?
> 
> Harold McElraft - 3354
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Ed B." <mr.pants_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> >
> > Hello everyone & Happy New Year to y'all from the Great White 
> North...!
> > 
> > I,too, have less than stellar braking since I replaced my master 
> > cylinder, rotors, pads & callipers.  So bad, in fact, that with 
> the car 
> > up on jack stands and the engine & tranny in 1st gear idling (no 
> > accelerator applied), all my weight on the brake pedal will just 
> barely 
> > stop the rear rotors from turning.  







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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 16:48:23 -0000
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Eurofest

Wonder what their condition is.

Matt

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "James Espey" <james_at_dml_d...> wrote:
>
> "Drive" trip or "dive" trip? There was some talk last year or maybe
> even in 2004 about them being raised, did that ever happen? I'd go
> with you on a "drive" trip, but not a "dive" trip.
> 
> James







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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 15:15:09 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: DCS Preview

Another couple of reminders - the hotel requires NO money up front for 
reservations, and will allow cancellations up to the day prior to the 
event at no charge. 

Ken will refund your money if you cancel right up to the event. So 
there is no risk if you sign up now. 

Dave S.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Patrick C." <PRC1216_at_dml_a...> wrote:
>
> I've been meaning to give DMLers a rough idea of what will be at the
> DCS in Chicago.  I have helped Ken out in his warehouse a few times in
> the last few weeks, and I was stunned at the amount of framed pictures
> he has that will be on display at the show.  







________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 09:28:48 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Diving Eurofest

Yea..  It was "Dive" sorry for the typo.

I did receive a few private responses to this idea,
but they were all from people who don't dive..  Plus
the jokes of my popularity in the DeLorean community
making it an opportunity to cut my air lines!  :)

So, please excuse the slight OT message.  For anyone
considering a SCUBA event for Galway bay, I would only
recommend it to someone who is an advanced certified
diver.  From what I understand, the DeLorean tools are
about 100-140Ft deep and the water is COLD with low
visibility.  So, this is not your tropical reef dive
that many vacation resorts will take inexperienced
people diving. 

Also (John Dore), If you have contacts in Ireland that
can help with this it would be great.  I don't know
the exact locations of the DeLorean tools, and would
love to have an experienced divemaster with us who may
be familiar with those waters.  Of course, no one has
expressed any real interest in joining me on this, so
if you know of any local divers (non DMC people?) over
there who want to join me that would be cool to.

Maybe we can video tape the whole thing for the
non-diver DeLorean nuts?  :)


--- James Espey <james_at_dml_delorean.com> wrote:

> "Drive" trip or "dive" trip? There was some talk
> last year or maybe
> even in 2004 about them being raised, did that ever
> happen? I'd go
> with you on a "drive" trip, but not a "dive" trip.
> 
> James



		
__________________________________________ 
Yahoo! DSL  Something to write home about. 
Just $16.99/mo. or less. 
dsl.yahoo.com 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 12:55:36 -0500
From: "Ed B." <mr.pants_at_dml_ca.inter.net>
Subject: Re: Re: "Bench Bleeding"

Good advice, thanks very much, Dave.  I believe the flexible brake lines 
were OK (the brakes worked fine before I swapped everything), but I will 
definitely re-check more closely when I tackle the job again in spring.

The brakes were all working wonderfully before.  The brake fluid was 
long overdue for a change & the reservoir was damaged.  I was 
"freshening up" a lot of the car & I decided to swap out the m.c. & 
reservoir, pads, calipers, rotors all with new stuff, since I had the 
new parts anyway.  System was bled thoroughly: clear, clean fluid coming 
out of all the calipers properly, but now very weak braking, even back 
with the original calipers (which I know to be good from before).  Quite 
frustrating, but I'm sure the solution is simple.  Will tackle the 
master cyl. bleeding first and take it from there.

Thanks again for all the suggestions  (keep 'em coming if I've missed 
anything!)....
- ed

1982 DMC-12 [11594]
1986.5 928S
1990 Coupe Quattro 20V


Dave Swingle wrote:

>Good call - I've seen a couple of cars in the past year where the 
>flexible hoses between the calipers and the body are plugged solid. I 
>think age is catching up to some of this stuff and it's time to 
>replace things like this that you'd never consider a "wear-out" item 
>on a newer car. 
>
>First try bleeding the calipers - if you can't get anything (or very 
>much) to come out the bleeder, take the line off the caliper and try 
>again. I've seen at least a few where you could take the line off the 
>caliper, stand on the brake pedal with both feet and nothing would 
>come out!
>
>There are several nice SS braided alternatives available from the 
>usual (and unusual) vendors now. 
>
>Dave S.
>  
>





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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 09:38:47 -0800
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Speedometer bouncing

Hello,

At lower speeds, my speedometer bounces up and down. Any idea what the
problem could be? I think I recall reading a new speedo cable would
fix this but not sure if I need upper or lower, or if there's
something else I should look into.

Thank you,

-Ryan


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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 13:54:03 EST
From: ComposerZelgadis_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Speedometer bouncing

Needs more lubrication.  Mine did this and completely died out (always  rests 
_at_dml_ zero, regardless of true speed).  I let mine go for so long that I  need 
both, a new lower speedo cable and an angle drive (which includes the  plastic 
disc, I believe).  To make matters slightly worse, I believe your  speedometer 
will now read slower-than-true, so I suggest using the RPM to MPH  chart _at_dml_ DMC 
News until you get it fixed.  Wouldn't want you to get  pulled over for doing 
eight over when your speedometer read five or six  over.
 
Regards,
William F.
#1366


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 12:01:54 -0700
From: "Matt Carpenter" <mattdcarpenter_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: RE: Speedometer bouncing

Mine does the exact same thing.  Someone told me something simply needs to 
be tightened.  I look forward to hearing suggested solutions!  Thanks, Matt 
Carpenter....5586


>From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Speedometer bouncing
>Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 09:38:47 -0800
>
>Hello,
>
>At lower speeds, my speedometer bounces up and down. Any idea what the
>problem could be? I think I recall reading a new speedo cable would
>fix this but not sure if I need upper or lower, or if there's
>something else I should look into.
>
>Thank you,
>
>-Ryan




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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 11:04:33 -0800 (PST)
From: Jamie Hamlin <jamiepierce2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Eurofest

I've been Scuba diving now for 16 years.
  This would be something I would love to checkout
  and to see what kind of shape they are in.
  Does anyone know how deep they are?
   
  Jamie
  Vin#5677
  Vin#2606

conundrum1984 <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:
  Wonder what their condition is.

Matt

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "James Espey" wrote:
>
> "Drive" trip or "dive" trip? There was some talk last year or maybe
> even in 2004 about them being raised, did that ever happen? I'd go
> with you on a "drive" trip, but not a "dive" trip.
> 
> James




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 11:57:45 -0800
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Speedometer bouncing

On 1/10/06, ComposerZelgadis_at_dml_aol.com <ComposerZelgadis_at_dml_aol.com> wrote:
> Needs more lubrication.  Mine did this and completely died out (always  rests
> _at_dml_ zero, regardless of true speed).  I let mine go for so long that I  need
> both, a new lower speedo cable and an angle drive (which includes the  plastic
> disc, I believe).  To make matters slightly worse, I believe your  speedometer
> will now read slower-than-true, so I suggest using the RPM to MPH  chart _at_dml_ DMC
> News until you get it fixed.  Wouldn't want you to get  pulled over for doing
> eight over when your speedometer read five or six  over.

Too late. :) Tagged for 47 in a 35 this morning. According to my
speedometer I wasn't going that fast. Thus, here I am, asking about
the cables.

Err, so, the angle drive has been lubricated - I did that last
weekend, actually. I guess I just need to lubricate the cables? How do
I do that?

-Ryan


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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 20:56:43 -0000
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Idle speed too high - other causes?

Hello all.
  The idle speed on my D is too high ~1800 rpm warm.  I've read the
"Discussions on Idle Speed"  and everything checks out.  The throttle
plates are correct, idle switch and ISC system work, no vacuum leaks,
the brass screws in the throttle body are fully seated, all o rings,
gaskets and seals in the plenum are new.
  I'm out of ideas for now and I'm hoping someone else can help.
Could the backfire valves in the throttle plates be leaking?

Matt Smith








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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 20:28:56 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Body Dies in Galway Bay (was Eurofest)

This is a bit aged, but a couple of years ago I got a some neat info 
on this topic from someone who was involved with the original sinking 
of the dies. Many of the newer list members have probably not seen 
this:

http://www.dmcnews.com/Resource/bodydies/bodydies.html

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_h...> 
wrote:
>
> Wonder what their condition is.
> 
> Matt
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "James Espey" <james_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> >
> > "Drive" trip or "dive" trip? There was some talk last year or 
maybe
> > even in 2004 about them being raised, did that ever happen? I'd go
> > with you on a "drive" trip, but not a "dive" trip.
> > 
> > James
>








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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 21:58:13 -0000
From: "Patrick C." <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Speedometer bouncing

NAPA sells a graphite lubricant specially made for speedometer cables.    

-Patrick C.
1880  



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> Too late. :) Tagged for 47 in a 35 this morning. According to my
> speedometer I wasn't going that fast. Thus, here I am, asking about
> the cables.
> 
> Err, so, the angle drive has been lubricated - I did that last
> weekend, actually. I guess I just need to lubricate the cables? How do
> I do that?
> 
> -Ryan
>








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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 22:01:47 -0000
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Front bumper problem

DaDoc,
What you are seeing is ONLY the tip of the iceberg,so to speak,if there 
is spread at both ends,it basically means the impact force was spread 
throughout the area,(both sides and rearward)on the front fascia,and 
also to the HDF(high density foam) structure underneath the fascia and 
possibly the metal framing of the HDF structure,and onto the black 
fiberglass under body,possibly cracking the under body,since this 
section of the under body is basically a "hanging shelf" or 
cantilevered Aka: a weak-point in the black body,that can get damaged 
even in a minor collision.
Unfortunately the ONLY way to get this right again,is to pull off the 
front fascia,and repair/replace any damaged parts or areas,the Delorean 
is one of the few cars out there,that has the unique one piece  
fiberglass under-body,that absorbs the impact of a front collision
(Lotus Esprit is the other)  throughout the black-body.Meaning that on 
a VERY hard front impact,the whole fiberglass nose could/will shear-off 
almost up to the front firewall will shear-off,but yet the passenger 
compartment/interior WILL stay untouched,with the doors(both) still 
able to open,because the impact will be absorbed throughout,and through 
the cavities of the black-body that are filled with HDF,absorbing the 
impact of the collision.(Like a sponge absorbing water)I hope that 
gives you a prospective of what engineering went into the Development 
of the black under-body.By the way,here is a little Trivia: THE 
original reason the ERM,was not used was that, 
Lotus were most unhappy about it all, not merely because the 
prototype's roadholding and general rigidity were not helped by the big 
cut-outs in the shell dictated by the gull-wing doors, but also because 
of the safety limitations. Their own vast experience of both glassfibre-
based bodies and backbone chassis-frames led them to surmise that in 
its original guise the DeLorean would fare very badly indeed in a 
barrier crash test. Very shortly Grumman  the US aerospace concern  
were invited in by DeLorean to analyse the structure on their most 
sophisticated computers; they did so and predicted that the rear-
mounted engine and gearbox would catch up with the occupants in the 
front footwells in a 26mph crash test!.... Meaning that the whole 
backend would crush flush with the dash!! You did not want to be in 
that car! The reason to have a full length frame under the car.

cbl






--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dadoc2791" <gekko_at_dml_f...> wrote:
>
> When I bought my '81 the previous owner had apparently driven it into 
a 
> post, dead center, tweaking the front bumper.  It is barely noticable 
> from a couple of steps off, but up close you can see the seam between 
> the stainless and the "rubber" rear edge of the bumper is spread at 
> either end.  Does anyone know of a way to "pull" or restore the 
normal 
> shape without replacing the bumper?
> 
> Thanks in advance for any help
> 
> DaDoc
>









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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 22:02:34 -0000
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Idle speed too high - other causes?

Mine started idling exactly like this when I slightly bent the 
connecting arm between the accelerator cable spool and the arm that 
holds the idle microswitch. The bend wasn't visible but it had the 
effect of shortening the arm just enough to pull the butterfly valves 
open a hair, just as if I were applying a little throttle. It would 
idle between 1500 and 2000 no matter what I did.

With your engine idling, try pressing the idle switch arm towards the 
switch and see if the assembly moves a little more, enough that your 
idle becomes normal.  If so, there are notes in the tech section on 
resolving this problem. The arm is easily removed (one clip beneath 
the spool) and length-adjusted by screwing the end ball in/out as 
needed.  Wish I'd found the notes BEFORE I spent two days figuring it 
out myself. :)

Not saying this is it, but it was on my car!

Marv
#10820
AZ-D



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_j...> wrote:
>
> Hello all.
>   The idle speed on my D is too high ~1800 rpm warm.  I've read the
> "Discussions on Idle Speed"  and everything checks out.  The throttle
> plates are correct, idle switch and ISC system work, no vacuum leaks,
> the brass screws in the throttle body are fully seated, all o rings,
> gaskets and seals in the plenum are new.
>   I'm out of ideas for now and I'm hoping someone else can help.
> Could the backfire valves in the throttle plates be leaking?
> 
> Matt Smith
>









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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 00:30:15 +0100
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: Idle speed too high - other causes?

Some more ideas - is the idle motor rusted/freezed in the open position ?

Is the temperature-sensor ok ? if the resistance is too high or even 
open - then idle is set to a higher speed (simulates low temperature).

Defect idle ECU ? Try another one.

Is the idle motor humming/vibrating (100Hz) ?


Elvis & 6548




Hello all.
  The idle speed on my D is too high ~1800 rpm warm.  I've read the
"Discussions on Idle Speed"  and everything checks out.  The throttle
plates are correct, idle switch and ISC system work, no vacuum leaks,
the brass screws in the throttle body are fully seated, all o rings,
gaskets and seals in the plenum are new.
  I'm out of ideas for now and I'm hoping someone else can help.
Could the backfire valves in the throttle plates be leaking?

Matt Smith








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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 16:22:50 -0700
From: "Matt Carpenter" <mattdcarpenter_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: Speedometer bouncing

What do you recommend for lubrication for the speedometer cable?
Thanks, Matt Carpenter, 5586, az-d.org


>From: ComposerZelgadis_at_dml_aol.com
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [DML] Speedometer bouncing
>Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 13:54:03 EST
>
>Needs more lubrication.  Mine did this and completely died out (always  
>rests
>_at_dml_ zero, regardless of true speed).  I let mine go for so long that I  need
>both, a new lower speedo cable and an angle drive (which includes the  
>plastic
>disc, I believe).  To make matters slightly worse, I believe your  
>speedometer
>will now read slower-than-true, so I suggest using the RPM to MPH  chart _at_dml_ 
>DMC
>News until you get it fixed.  Wouldn't want you to get  pulled over for 
>doing
>eight over when your speedometer read five or six  over.
>
>Regards,
>William F.
>#1366
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 23:44:37 -0000
From: "Chris " <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Idle speed too high - other causes?

Try this.....unplug your ECU and start the car. If the idle is fairly 
normal then you've found the problem.

Chris
6301
>
> Hello all.
>   The idle speed on my D is too high ~1800 rpm warm.  I've read the
> "Discussions on Idle Speed"  and everything checks out.  The throttle
> plates are correct, idle switch and ISC system work, no vacuum leaks,
> the brass screws in the throttle body are fully seated, all o rings,
> gaskets and seals in the plenum are new.
>   I'm out of ideas for now and I'm hoping someone else can help.
> Could the backfire valves in the throttle plates be leaking?
> 
> Matt Smith
>










________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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