From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 3:55 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3070

There are 14 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Speedometer bouncing
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>

2. Re: Idle speed too high - other causes?
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>

3. Re: Speedometer bouncing
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

4. What to call the Scuba Show... Diving for Deloreans?
From: Parts Pit Mike <thepartspit_at_dml_rogers.com>

5. Re: Speedometer bouncing
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

6. Engine Dies at idle HELP!
From: "valleyrat12" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Re: Speedometer bouncing
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. Re: Engine Dies at idle HELP!
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Re: Speedometer bouncing
From: Christopher Mack <christopher_mack_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. Re: Engine Dies at idle HELP!
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

11. Re: What to call the Scuba Show... Diving for Deloreans?
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

12. Re: Engine Dies at idle HELP!
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>

13. Re: Engine Dies at idle HELP!
From: Christopher Mack <christopher_mack_at_dml_yahoo.com>

14. Re: What to call the Scuba Show... Diving for Deloreans?
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 21:49:39 -0000
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Speedometer bouncing

I guess you could start by lubricating the angle drive through the set screw or grease fitting, if you have one. There is a tech note or recall notice around someplace on that.  It's easily done from behind the left front wheel with the wheels turned hard left.  No need to jack up the car, remove the tire, etc.  If using the set screw, disconnect the cable and flip the drive over to add lubricant, flip back and reconnect the cable. Try to do it every oil change.  I believe the recommended lubricant on the recall notice was gear oil because I had to go buy some to do this.

To further delay repair, it's probably not a bad idea to pull your speedometer cables from their sheaths and inspect/lubricate them.  
My lower cable slipped in and out easily when disconnected from the AD and lambda counter. I imagine the upper will do the same, but I am guessing since I haven't serviced it.  You may find them frayed, which could be the cause of your bouncing.

This bought me about six months of additional service before the AD quit. I didn't notice any real difference in speedo performance after I installed my new angle drive... still within a mph or so of my GPS readings.

Marv
#10820
AZ-D

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_g...> wrote:
>
> Hello,
> 
> At lower speeds, my speedometer bounces up and down. Any idea what
the
> problem could be? I think I recall reading a new speedo cable would 
> fix this but not sure if I need upper or lower, or if there's 
> something else I should look into.
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> -Ryan
>








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 00:21:23 -0000
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Idle speed too high - other causes?

Ok, I think I might be onto something here... or I'm just going crazy...
  It would appear that the little relief valves in the throttle plates are in backwards.  I don't know how that would happen, but...
I've removed the throttle body and the "ram's horn" looking part of the intake.  If I look into the throttle body from the end that attaches to the fuel distributor I see the spring end of the relief valves.  That means that the flat end is toward the engine vacuum.  If I'm correct that means that vacuum is pulling these valves open.
  I've double checked to make sure that the throttle plates are in correctly and the bevels of the plates seat nicely against the throttle bore, and the plates are set the right direction.
I'm so confused...

Matt Smith

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_j...> wrote:
>
> Hello all.
>   The idle speed on my D is too high ~1800 rpm warm.  I've read the 
> "Discussions on Idle Speed"  and everything checks out.  The throttle 
> plates are correct, idle switch and ISC system work, no vacuum leaks, 
> the brass screws in the throttle body are fully seated, all o rings, 
> gaskets and seals in the plenum are new.
>   I'm out of ideas for now and I'm hoping someone else can help.
> Could the backfire valves in the throttle plates be leaking?
> 
> Matt Smith
>








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 00:24:41 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Speedometer bouncing

There can be several causes for the speeometer to bounce and read inaccuratley. Make sure the drive disc is not slipping between the hub and the rim. You can wrap the edge of the disc with some electrical tape to trap it more securely. Inspect the square hole in the center and make sure it is not rounded out. Make sure the cable goes in to the square hole in the disc far enough to be secure. If this doesn't help the next step is to make sure you have the lower cable support and that it isn't broken. Remove the lower inner cable and lay it on a piece of newspaper. It should have a large natural curl to it without any sharp kinks and the ends should not have any fraying or unwinding.
Lubricate freely and reinstall. Less likely for a problem with the upper inner cable but if working on the lower cable didn't fix it then remove the upper, inspect, lubricate, and reinstall. If working on the cables doesn't fix the bouncing you may have to have the speedo head looked at. I found one car had some of the plastic posts inside broken and the metal clip on the post got the post and the clip stuck on the magnetic assembly causing the speedometer to eat angle drives and read slow. The angle drive is supposed to be lubricated at regular intervals when you have the car serviced. For most of us that means at least once a year. You can check the calibration of your speedometer by driving by mile markers and checking the odometer and your speed with a stop watch. As for the Police, a radar detector is a good investment.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757  



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_g...> wrote:
>
> On 1/10/06, ComposerZelgadis_at_dml_a... <ComposerZelgadis_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> > Needs more lubrication.  Mine did this and completely died out
(always  rests
> > _at_dml_ zero, regardless of true speed).  I let mine go for so long that
I  need
> > both, a new lower speedo cable and an angle drive (which includes
the  plastic
> > disc, I believe).  To make matters slightly worse, I believe your
 speedometer
>







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 20:35:34 -0500 (EST)
From: Parts Pit Mike <thepartspit_at_dml_rogers.com>
Subject: What to call the Scuba Show... Diving for Deloreans?

Wow this would be a great TV show for Speedvision or the Discovery Network.
   
  A gang of scuba diving Delorean fans travel off the coast of Ireland in search of the Lost Dies that made the famous car. 
   
  I AM serious here by the way... certainly a human interest story for the papers.
   
  Parts Pit Mike
  VIN 17076


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 17:44:08 -0600
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Speedometer bouncing

I used a graphite speedometer lube bought at NAPA, 2 years now with no bouncing.

Mark V


On Jan 10, 2006, at 12:54 PM, ComposerZelgadis_at_dml_aol.com wrote:

> Needs more lubrication.  Mine did this and completely died out (always  
> rests _at_dml_ zero, regardless of true speed).  I let mine go for so long 
> that I need both, a new lower speedo cable and an angle drive (which 
> includes the plastic disc, I believe).  To make matters slightly 
> worse, I believe your speedometer will now read slower-than-true, so I 
> suggest using the RPM to MPH chart _at_dml_ DMC News until you get it fixed.  
> Wouldn't want you to get  pulled over for doing eight over when your 
> speedometer read five or six  over.
>
> Regards,
> William F.
> #1366




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 01:13:30 -0000
From: "valleyrat12" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Engine Dies at idle HELP!

Hello all,

My car is manifesting a new problem. The car will start then idle at 1000 rpm for about 10-15 seconds then die.  If i push on the accellerator or turn the spindle the engine will abruptly die.  If the car manages to stay running for about thirty seconds I can turn the spindle and the engine will begin to respond, first coughing and bogging down, then eventually respond like normal.  (once warm??) 

What the heck is this? I searched the archives and the closest thing I can come to is that it may be related to the control preassure regulator. I removed the fuel line going from the center of the fuel dist. to the CPR and the screen had a some dirt around the edges. I removed it, still has this problem.  I drained my battery twice so far trying to solve this!

Since I am relatively new to the Delorean I must also ask this:  When the key is turned to the "on" position I hear a click and a buzz (I think the frequency valve) then the buzzing stops and will not start again until I turn the crank. I removed the cover from the RPM relay and confirmed that the click is from that relay. Is this a normal condition? Also when the engine is running the sound of the frequeency valve changes and immediately causes the idle to fluctuate up and down (300 RPM or so) with the change in sound.  Normal, or $&#_at_dml_*& up?

Alot, I know but this newby needs the help! Thanks!

Nathan
2277









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 01:49:17 -0000
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Speedometer bouncing

You may want to also validate that you have the correct tire size on your front tires. Since your speed is based on how many times the Driver's side wheel turns, if you have smaller times, your speedo can read that you are going faster than you really are... the converse also holds true. If your tires are too tall/large, your speedo will register a slower speed. 

Often times (like when you are driving west out of San Diego California on the I-8 (or is it the five - The freeway number is not all that important) on your way to El Centro, they have a way to check if your speedo is off based on the milage markers.

Either that or you can drive by those signs at the airport that measure your speed without giving a photo-radar ticket, but just display your speed to find out how much you are off.

I know that my speedo is about 2 or 3 mph, according to that sign. 
My speedo was on the 30 mph line, and the sign read 33.

Sean
3372
AZ-D

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Patrick C." <PRC1216_at_dml_a...> wrote:
>
> NAPA sells a graphite lubricant specially made for speedometer
cables.    
> 
> -Patrick C.
> 1880
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_g...>
wrote:
> > Too late. :) Tagged for 47 in a 35 this morning. According to my 
> > speedometer I wasn't going that fast. Thus, here I am, asking
about
> > the cables.
> > 
> > Err, so, the angle drive has been lubricated - I did that last 
> > weekend, actually. I guess I just need to lubricate the cables?
How do
> > I do that?
> > 
> > -Ryan
> >
>








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 01:51:58 -0000
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Dies at idle HELP!


Do you hear sounds coming from the front of the car (towards the glove box)?

Have you validate that your fuel pump is good?

Sean

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "valleyrat12" <valleyrat12_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
>
> Hello all,
> 
> My car is manifesting a new problem. The car will start then idle
at 
> 1000 rpm for about 10-15 seconds then die.  If i push on the 
> accellerator or turn the spindle the engine will abruptly die.  If
the 
> car manages to stay running for about thirty seconds I can turn
the 
> spindle and the engine will begin to respond, first coughing and 
> bogging down, then eventually respond like normal.  (once warm??)
> 
> What the heck is this? I searched the archives and the closest
thing I 
> can come to is that it may be related to the control preassure 
> regulator. I removed the fuel line going from the center of the
fuel 
> dist. to the CPR and the screen had a some dirt around the edges. 
I 
> removed it, still has this problem.  I drained my battery twice so
far 
> trying to solve this!
> 
> Since I am relatively new to the Delorean I must also ask this:  
When 
> the key is turned to the "on" position I hear a click and a buzz
(I 
> think the frequency valve) then the buzzing stops and will not
start 
> again until I turn the crank. I removed the cover from the RPM
relay 
> and confirmed that the click is from that relay. Is this a normal 
> condition? Also when the engine is running the sound of the
frequeency 
> valve changes and immediately causes the idle to fluctuate up and
down 
> (300 RPM or so) with the change in sound.  Normal, or $&#_at_dml_*& up?
> 
> Alot, I know but this newby needs the help! Thanks!
> 
> Nathan
> 2277
>









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 18:11:03 -0800 (PST)
From: Christopher Mack <christopher_mack_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Speedometer bouncing

Hello,

Which speedometer cable? (I am assuming both the upper and the lower) My speedometer stopped working after the cable was bouncing I bought new anglke drive and may also need ot get a lower speedo cable based on my findings when I take out hte old angle drive in a few weeks

-Chris
-Chris

--- Matt Carpenter <mattdcarpenter_at_dml_msn.com> wrote:

> What do you recommend for lubrication for the speedometer cable?
> Thanks, Matt Carpenter, 5586, az-d.org
> 
> 
> >From: ComposerZelgadis_at_dml_aol.com
> >Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> >To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: Re: [DML] Speedometer bouncing
> >Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 13:54:03 EST
> >
> >Needs more lubrication.  Mine did this and
> completely died out (always
> >rests
> >_at_dml_ zero, regardless of true speed).  I let mine go
> for so long that I  need
> >both, a new lower speedo cable and an angle drive
> (which includes the
> >plastic
> >disc, I believe).  To make matters slightly worse,
> I believe your
> >speedometer
> >will now read slower-than-true, so I suggest using
> the RPM to MPH  chart _at_dml_
> >DMC
> >News until you get it fixed.  Wouldn't want you to
> get  pulled over for
> >doing
> >eight over when your speedometer read five or six
> over.
> >
> >Regards,
> >William F.
> >#1366




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 02:19:52 -0000
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Engine Dies at idle HELP!

Hi

my car has sat for 12 years (then i shipped to the Uk to restore) and i have pretty much the same problem, and have hunted throughout to find the same with others (but found no complete answers!)

with my car i have changed the CPR, petrol filter, accumulator, plugs, pulled injectors and tested the spray pattern, removed air intake manifold and changed o rings, changed sensors in y pipe and she still does exactly the same thing....starts ok then runs 30 secs then revs drop then dies.

i thought the cold start vale may be leaking fuel into the intake (and efeectivley flooding it) but my next check was the idle system.

so removed the idle cpu and motor and sent away to be put on a test car....worked fine.

i have now removed the idle motor, blocked the two pipes leading from it and used the three brass screws then started and she now idles at 1500 revs and carried on running!.

so i think with my car the microswitch may be faulty or there is a diode next to the cpu, or the wire feed from the distributer (which tells the cpu the engine revolutions, and obviously check fuse 1 which feeds the idle system.

not saying your is the same...but it is exhibiting exactly the same symptoms.

if she struggles to start check the plug which goes to the cold start valve, the connectors inside mine push back in the rubber when you plug it in and did not connect correctly.

from others

"As said in previous post, you can completely remove the idle speed motor (large black can size of baked bean tin on left hand side of engine when viewed from the rear. Block the 2 rubber pipes with a large bolt in each (v important).

Fully seat the 3 brass screws (just above the W shaped part of the inlet manifold when stood from the rear of the engine) by hand, DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THEM THEY WILL SHEAR Then, undo the 2 nearest to you by 2.5 turns and then the one furthest away by 7 full turns. This should get the car to idle at a fixed rate."

and
why many people out there now think that their idle speed motor should stop making that buzzing sound after a few seconds ?
They are totally mislead because it is supposed to buzz as long as the key is inserted and turned to the position where all the bulbs in the dash are on. The green wire to the idle ECU is fed by the AUX relay and fuse #1 - it's not even connected to the RPM relayJust to add, these invariably fail open-circuit (and sometimes the connector can go bad resulting in the same symptoms) but is incredibly easy to diagnose. If you look at the top of your idlespeed ECU, you'll see that the pin-out for the plugs is numbered. Look for pins 9 and 11, and put an ohm-meter across them in the plug. From memory, the reading should be between 700 and 2200 ohm depending on engine temp. If it's O/C you immediately know where to look"

these are off others

hope this helps, i am not working on mine for a few days so let me know how you get on.

Regards

Steve












--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "valleyrat12" <valleyrat12_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
>
> Hello all,
> 
> My car is manifesting a new problem. The car will start then idle
at 
> 1000 rpm for about 10-15 seconds then die.  If i push on the 
> accellerator or turn the spindle the engine will abruptly die.  If
the 
> car manages to stay running for about thirty seconds I can turn
the 
> spindle and the engine will begin to respond, first coughing and 
> bogging down, then eventually respond like normal.  (once warm??)
> 
> What the heck is this? I searched the archives and the closest
thing I 
> can come to is that it may be related to the control preassure 
> regulator. I removed the fuel line going from the center of the
fuel 
> dist. to the CPR and the screen had a some dirt around the edges. 
I 
> removed it, still has this problem.  I drained my battery twice so
far 
> trying to solve this!
> 
> Since I am relatively new to the Delorean I must also ask this:  
When 
> the key is turned to the "on" position I hear a click and a buzz
(I 
> think the frequency valve) then the buzzing stops and will not
start 
> again until I turn the crank. I removed the cover from the RPM
relay 
> and confirmed that the click is from that relay. Is this a normal 
> condition? Also when the engine is running the sound of the
frequeency 
> valve changes and immediately causes the idle to fluctuate up and
down 
> (300 RPM or so) with the change in sound.  Normal, or $&#_at_dml_*& up?
> 
> Alot, I know but this newby needs the help! Thanks!
> 
> Nathan
> 2277
>








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 02:34:58 -0000
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: What to call the Scuba Show... Diving for Deloreans?


Mike,

I do not know what the coastline is like there,but if it is anywhere like here in the Northeast Coast(Long Island Sound),EVEN if those Dies were made from Stainless Steel after 20+ years under salt water,(Heck after a few weeks)and being Barnicle encrusted,they would be so far damaged,that they would be rendered useless,IF you could even find them...as they would be Barnicle encrusted(yes barnicles WILL damage stainless steel)and plant life /muck/sand/debris,and water movement would have most likely hidden or moved them off the orignal dumping area.That was one of the major reasons to dump them in the ocean,to Destroy them,the British Goverment knew that.

cbl


 --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Parts Pit Mike <thepartspit_at_dml_r...>
wrote:
>
> Wow this would be a great TV show for Speedvision or the Discovery
Network.
>    
>   A gang of scuba diving Delorean fans travel off the coast of
Ireland in search of the Lost Dies that made the famous car. 
>    
>   I AM serious here by the way... certainly a human interest story
for the papers.
>    
>   Parts Pit Mike
>   VIN 17076
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 03:10:09 -0000
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Dies at idle HELP!

  I can't remember if you ended up getting a fuel pressure gauge while you were hunting for the cause of your failed emmissions.  If you've got one, hook it up and watch your fuel pressure.  If you don't have one yet, I strongly suggest getting on as it will take out a lot of guesswork.
  All your noises sound normal, the "hunting idle" seems to be a hallmark of our cars.  I will conquer it one day though *sticks flag in sand!!*  Ahem...
  Get someone to help you, remove the air cleaner assy. and have them start the car up while you stand by the engine (all the usual warnings apply here, don't get run over, don't wear ties or loose clothes, don't touch hot things, don't lick the drive belt, etc.) Twist the throttle pulley slightly and press down very  slightly on the metering plate (that 6" or so disk on top center under the air cleaner housing) this will admit more fuel, careful a little bit goes a long way.  If the engine runs better, you might be too lean, though we don't know the cause yet.  If it runs worse, it's too rich.  Again, we don't know the cause.  Be careful when pressing down the plate, you just barely need to move it.  If you push too much, and admit too much fuel the engine will run poorly anyway.

Matt Smith

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "valleyrat12" <valleyrat12_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>
> Hello all,
> 
> My car is manifesting a new problem. The car will start then idle at 
> 1000 rpm for about 10-15 seconds then die.  If i push on the 
> accellerator or turn the spindle the engine will abruptly die.  If the 
> car manages to stay running for about thirty seconds I can turn the 
> spindle and the engine will begin to respond, first coughing and 
> bogging down, then eventually respond like normal.  (once warm??)
> 
> What the heck is this? I searched the archives and the closest thing I 
> can come to is that it may be related to the control preassure 
> regulator. I removed the fuel line going from the center of the fuel 
> dist. to the CPR and the screen had a some dirt around the edges. I 
> removed it, still has this problem.  I drained my battery twice so far 
> trying to solve this!
> 
> Since I am relatively new to the Delorean I must also ask this:  When 
> the key is turned to the "on" position I hear a click and a buzz (I 
> think the frequency valve) then the buzzing stops and will not start 
> again until I turn the crank. I removed the cover from the RPM relay 
> and confirmed that the click is from that relay. Is this a normal 
> condition? Also when the engine is running the sound of the frequeency 
> valve changes and immediately causes the idle to fluctuate up and down 
> (300 RPM or so) with the change in sound.  Normal, or $&#_at_dml_*& up?
> 
> Alot, I know but this newby needs the help! Thanks!
> 
> Nathan
> 2277
>








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 17:55:54 -0800 (PST)
From: Christopher Mack <christopher_mack_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Dies at idle HELP!

Nathan, 

I am having a similar problem with my DL. The problem would be where the idle gets low when the car is cold and the car will not restart.  I had the problem fixed but now my car is runing too rich, sounds like my car's engine needs an air/fuel mixture adjustment.  
For the control pressure regulator I just fixed one on a friends car by taking it apart and cleaning the screen out with brake cleaner and checking all the electrical components too before reinstalling it.  His car accelerates fine now instead of coughing when trying to accelerate. Does your car have the same problem whne hot and cold?? let me know

Thanks

Chris

--- valleyrat12 <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
> 
> My car is manifesting a new problem. The car will start then idle at 
> 1000 rpm for about 10-15 seconds then die.  If i push on the 
> accellerator or turn the spindle the engine will abruptly die.  If the 
> car manages to stay running for about thirty seconds I can turn the 
> spindle and the engine will begin to respond, first coughing and 
> bogging down, then eventually respond like normal.
> (once warm??)
> 
> What the heck is this? I searched the archives and the closest thing I 
> can come to is that it may be related to the control preassure 
> regulator. I removed the fuel line going from the center of the fuel 
> dist. to the CPR and the screen had a some dirt around the edges. I 
> removed it, still has this problem.  I drained my battery twice so far 
> trying to solve this!
> 
> Since I am relatively new to the Delorean I must also ask this:  When 
> the key is turned to the "on" position I hear a click and a buzz (I 
> think the frequency valve) then the buzzing stops and will not start 
> again until I turn the crank. I removed the cover from the RPM relay 
> and confirmed that the click is from that relay. Is this a normal 
> condition? Also when the engine is running the sound of the frequeency 
> valve changes and immediately causes the idle to fluctuate up and down 
> (300 RPM or so) with the change in sound.  Normal, or $&#_at_dml_*& up?
> 
> Alot, I know but this newby needs the help! Thanks!
> 
> Nathan
> 2277
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 18:57:22 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: What to call the Scuba Show... Diving for Deloreans?

So, give them a call!  :)

I would not mind Discovery paying my dive expenses. 
LOL!


--- Parts Pit Mike <thepartspit_at_dml_rogers.com> wrote:

> Wow this would be a great TV show for Speedvision or the Discovery 
> Network.
>    
>   A gang of scuba diving Delorean fans travel off the coast of Ireland 
> in search of the Lost Dies that made the famous car.
>    
>   I AM serious here by the way... certainly a human interest story for 
> the papers.
>    
>   Parts Pit Mike
>   VIN 1707




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
    dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 
------------------------------------------------------------------------