From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 8:27 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3071

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Re: Speedometer bouncing
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>

2. Re: Engine Dies at idle HELP!
From: "valleyrat12" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Re: Luggage Rack
From: Jason Ferrara <jason_at_dml_discordia.org>

4. Re: Engine Dies at idle HELP!
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

5. RE: Louder Horns for DMC...one more question.
From: "alex morgan" <mauibarber_at_dml_hotmail.com>

6. Fuel pump gets hot...
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>

7. RE: Re: Buzzer Defeat ???
From: "robert parker" <roberthparker_at_dml_hotmail.com>

8. Re: What to call the Scuba Show... Diving for Deloreans?
From: Parts Pit Mike <thepartspit_at_dml_rogers.com>

9. Re: Idle speed too high - other causes?
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>

10. CV boot replacement
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>

11. Re: Re: What to call the Scuba Show... Diving for Deloreans?
From: Parts Pit Mike <thepartspit_at_dml_rogers.com>

12. Re: Speedometer bouncing
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Re: Fuel pump gets hot...
From: "M. P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>

14. Re: CV boot replacement
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

15. Re: Fuel pump gets hot...
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

16. Re: What to call the Scuba Show... Diving for Deloreans?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

17. Re: CV boot replacement
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

18. Re: What to call the Scuba Show... Diving for Deloreans?
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

19. Re: CV boot replacement
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>

20. Teamspeak
From: "Jay" <Magnum70_at_dml_gmail.com>

21. RE: Re: Fuel pump gets hot...
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>

22. Re: Luggage Rack
From: Chris Murley <qumefox_at_dml_gmail.com>

23. Re: Re: What to call the Scuba Show... Diving for Deloreans?
From: Chris Murley <qumefox_at_dml_gmail.com>

24. Re: Re: What to call the Scuba Show... Diving for Deloreans?
From: Parts Pit Mike <thepartspit_at_dml_rogers.com>

25. SuperCharger and Engine Vacuum
From: "Nick" <nicholden_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 21:33:49 -0600
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>
Subject: RE: Re: Speedometer bouncing

I too have a bouncing speedo.  I've done a bunch of things to it and it still bounces.

Anyway, here are additional thoughts:
- Check to see that the cable through the hub is not pushing the yellow cap out a bit.  If so it will kink the cable when the hub is tight.  Drill out the cap (carefully!!!) to allow the cable to come through  and seal with silicone to keep dry.

- Connect up the cable to an variable speed electric drill and operate various pieces of the cable to see where the bouncing is occurring.  Start close the speedo and work back.

Nick
897
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.371 / Virus Database: 267.14.16/225 - Release Date: 1/9/2006






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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 04:09:28 -0000
From: "valleyrat12" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Dies at idle HELP!

My car is having the same problem more or less cold and hot.  The usual problem is the engine fires up and immediately dies. It usually takes three or four cranks before it stays running. The idling then dieing are a new symptom.  

I took my CPR apart and noticed that the wire that attaches to the bolt in the center was touching the case. It looked like it has shorted out (corrosion/burn marks) but I am not sure. Also the plug socket looks very corroded and possible shorted. From looking at the schematic it seems that the electronics inside the CPR are grounded outside of the device. 

Am I correct in assuming that if any of the internal electrical contacts are touching the case the CPR will not function?

I cleaned the screen, re adjusted the center contact so that it does not touch the case, and put it all back together. Once my battery is charged I will hook everything back up.

Keep the suggestion coming!! Thanks!

Nathan
2277
 

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Christopher Mack <christopher_mack_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>
> Nathan,
> 
> I am having a similar problem with my DL. The problem would be where 
> the idle gets low when the car is cold and the car will not restart.  
> I had the problem fixed but now my car is runing too rich, sounds like 
> my car's engine needs an air/fuel mixture adjustment.
> For the control pressure regulator I just fixed one on a friends car 
> by taking it apart and cleaning the screen out with brake cleaner and 
> checking all the electrical components too before reinstalling it.  
> His car accelerates fine now instead of coughing when trying to 
> accelerate. Does your car have the same problem whne hot and cold?? 
> let me know
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Chris
> 
> --- valleyrat12 <valleyrat12_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> > Hello all,
> > 
> > My car is manifesting a new problem. The car will start then idle at 
> > 1000 rpm for about 10-15 seconds then die.  If i push on the 
> > accellerator or turn the spindle the engine will abruptly die.  If 
> > the car manages to stay running for about thirty seconds I can turn 
> > the spindle and the engine will begin to respond, first coughing and 
> > bogging down, then eventually respond like normal.
> > (once warm??)
> > 
> > What the heck is this? I searched the archives and the closest thing 
> > I can come to is that it may be related to the control preassure 
> > regulator. I removed the fuel line going from the center of the fuel 
> > dist. to the CPR and the screen had a some dirt around the edges. I 
> > removed it, still has this problem.  I drained my battery twice so 
> > far trying to solve this!
> > 
> > Since I am relatively new to the Delorean I must also ask this:  
> > When the key is turned to the "on" position I hear a click and a 
> > buzz (I think the frequency valve) then the buzzing stops and will 
> > not start again until I turn the crank. I removed the cover from the 
> > RPM relay and confirmed that the click is from that relay. Is this a 
> > normal condition? Also when the engine is running the sound of the 
> > frequeency valve changes and immediately causes the idle to 
> > fluctuate up and down (300 RPM or so) with the change in sound.  
> > Normal, or $&#_at_dml_*& up?
> > 
> > Alot, I know but this newby needs the help! Thanks!
> > 
> > Nathan
> > 2277





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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 22:43:20 -0500
From: Jason Ferrara <jason_at_dml_discordia.org>
Subject: Re: Luggage Rack

Here is a luggage rack in use

http://www.discordia.org/~jason/newtank.jpg

On Jan 9, 2006, at 5:17 AM, Stuart Nicholls wrote:

> Does anyone have any pictures of a car with the luggage rack fitted? 
> I'd love to see what one looks like.
>
> Stuart
> VIN# 5641 "Maddie"
> DOC 414




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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 14:35:44 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Dies at idle HELP!

This is usually caused by a problem in the Control Pressure Regulator circuit or the Lambda system. Make sure the vacuum hoses are hooked up and not leaking to the CPR. Make sure the frequency valve is buzzing.
Also check that you are tripping the idle micro.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Christopher Mack <christopher_mack_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>
> Nathan,
> 
> I am having a similar problem with my DL. The problem would be where 
> the idle gets low when the car is cold and the car will not restart.  
> I had the problem fixed but now my car is runing too rich, sounds like 
> my
> 







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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 05:28:58 +0000
From: "alex morgan" <mauibarber_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Louder Horns for DMC...one more question.

Thanks for the detailed info.  I have one more question though.  I have heard that its possible to melt your stock wire with a louder horn.  If you 
buy a new horn that   draws 15 amps and the delorean has a 20 amp fuse in 
the fuse box for the horns than how are people melting the horn wires?  
Shouldn't the fuse blow way before the wire melts?  I am assuming they are not running a horn that pulls more than 15-20 amps.

Secondly, where do you presume the wires are melting?  Before (from fuse box to switch) or after (horn switch to horn) the horn switch?
-Alex





Quote
"Alex,
Here is a quick guide to installing a relay for the horns. If you are still
uncertain about this, I would recommend finding somebody comfortable with
automotive electrics to help you wire.

First buy a basic automotive relay (Radio Shack #275-226). There are 4
terminals on this relay. Two perform the actual switching of the new horn's
power and the other 2 power the coil. Take the existing power wire that
went to one of the horns and connect it to a coil terminal. Now run a wire
from the other coil terminal to a grounding point on the car. Now when you
press the horn button, the relay will click on and off.

Next you need to run a heavy gauge wire from the battery to the relay (see
if the horn manufacture recommends a minimum gauge). Make sure you put a
in-line fuse by the battery as you don't want to start a fire if the wire
shorts out! Once you get the wire to the relay, you need to connect it to
one of the switch terminals. Now just run another wire from the last switch
terminal to the positive side of the new horns. Make sure the horns are
grounded and you should be set.

The relay works as a secondary switch. Pressing the horn button in the car
simply activates the relay. The relay will now switch on the cars using the
high power wire that you just ran from the battery. If you don't want the
relay in front of the car, you can relocate it and power the coil off the
horn switch inside the car. You will just have to find where to tap the
horn wire, but the rest of the wiring will remain the same.

Hope this helps,
Chris
VIN 4099"






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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 22:35:05 -0800
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: Fuel pump gets hot...

I know this has come up before, and that AZ-D probably has the most
experience with hot weather operation - but in this case it seems extreme.

I've just gotten my car running regularly in the last month or so - and on
some days, even in the mid 70's the fuel pump overheats.  It even happens
when the tank is nearly full.  In all occurrence it seems to happen when the
car idles a lot, as opposed to just driving a lot.

First the pump gets loud, then it quits, it takes about 90 minutes before it
runs again.

Is this a sign that I have a kinked pickup line?  Defective pump?  It sure
does seem to be tied to the fans blowing hot air on the tank because it
happens during heavy idling periods...

What experience do any of you have with SpecialTautos Hot air dam?

Tom
10902






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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 16:58:46 +0000
From: "robert parker" <roberthparker_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Buzzer Defeat ???

OR....  pull the buzzers them selves.  Plugged in to the panel left of 
steering wheel, under dash. I pulled both right after I got the car. Last I 
saw them, they were under the seat- 23 yrs. ago.    Drive Stainless    
Robert   VIN 6924


From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Buzzer Defeat ???
Date: Sat, 07 Jan 2006 16:31:31 -0000

The simplist method is to just pull one of the wires off of the door
switch on the driver's door that controls the buzzer. Since there are
2 switches there (one for the lights and 1 for the buzzer) try the
switches first so you know which is which.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Michael Townsley"
<michaeltownsley_at_dml_s...> wrote:
 >
 >
 > I would like to know how to defeat the door open and seat belt buzzer
 > because it sometimes goes off for no reason and it is bothersome if you
 > are working on the car with the doors open.
 >
 > I defeated it for a while by pulling the fuse but that also defeats t




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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 09:56:53 -0500 (EST)
From: Parts Pit Mike <thepartspit_at_dml_rogers.com>
Subject: Re: What to call the Scuba Show... Diving for Deloreans?

Seriously this is a GREAT story.. especially if you guys can "Raise the Deloreans."
   
  

Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
  So, give them a call! :)

I would not mind Discovery paying my dive expenses. 
LOL!


--- Parts Pit Mike wrote:

> Wow this would be a great TV show for Speedvision or
> the Discovery Network.
> 
> A gang of scuba diving Delorean fans travel off
> the coast of Ireland in search of the Lost Dies that
> made the famous car. 
> 
> I AM serious here by the way... certainly a human
> interest story for the papers.
> 
> Parts Pit Mike
> VIN 1707




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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 15:56:37 -0000
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Idle speed too high - other causes?

Well, the high idle is fixed...  I took the throttle plates out and
flipped them over so the relief valves would be facing the right way,
now my idle is right where it should be.
  I don't know how the plates could have been swapped around, the
split screws that hold the plates on looked original.  Could this have
been a factory error?  I can't think of any reason for the plates to
be removed from the throttle body, it just dosen't make sense.

Matt Smith


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_j...> wrote:
>
> Ok, I think I might be onto something here... or I'm just going crazy...
>   It would appear that the little relief valves in the throttle plates
> are in backwards.  I don't know how that would happen, but...
> I've removed the throttle body and the "ram's horn" looking part of
> the intake.  If I look into the throttle body from the end that
> attaches to the fuel distributor I see the spring end of the relief
> valves.  That means that the flat end is toward the engine vacuum.  If
> I'm correct that means that vacuum is pulling these valves open.
>   I've double checked to make sure that the throttle plates are in
> correctly and the bevels of the plates seat nicely against the
> throttle bore, and the plates are set the right direction.
> I'm so confused...
> 
> Matt Smith
> 









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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 15:59:54 -0000
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: CV boot replacement

Hello all.
  What is the procedure for removing the outer CV joint from the axle?
 I damaged the boot while installing my clutch, so there is no
contamination in the joint.  I've looked in the service manual, it
dosen't mention the CV axles, or I'm not looking in the right place :P
How do I take this apart?

Matt Smith







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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 10:13:54 -0500 (EST)
From: Parts Pit Mike <thepartspit_at_dml_rogers.com>
Subject: Re: Re: What to call the Scuba Show... Diving for Deloreans?

cbl1739  wrote: they would be so far damaged,that they would be rendered useless,IF you could even find them...as they would be Barnicle encrusted
   
  Pit Mike replies: Yeah but the story would be about the search and the determination of the people involved. Even if they pulled up a lump of rotting metal I think it would be a cool adventure.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 06:01:27 -0000
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Speedometer bouncing

Just make sure you tighten the lower cable enough, and you should be 
fine when you replacce the angle drive.

Sean

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Christopher Mack 
<christopher_mack_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>
> Hello,
> 
> Which speedometer cable? (I am assuming both the upper
> and the lower)
> My speedometer stopped working after the cable was
> bouncing
> I bought new anglke drive and may also need ot get a
> lower speedo cable based on my findings when I take
> out hte old angle drive in a few weeks
> 
> -Chris
> -Chris
> 
> --- Matt Carpenter <mattdcarpenter_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> 
> > What do you recommend for lubrication for the
> > speedometer cable?
> > Thanks, Matt Carpenter, 5586, az-d.org
> > 
> > 
> > >From: ComposerZelgadis_at_dml_a...
> > >Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> > >To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> > >Subject: Re: [DML] Speedometer bouncing
> > >Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 13:54:03 EST
> > >
> > >Needs more lubrication.  Mine did this and
> > completely died out (always  
> > >rests
> > >_at_dml_ zero, regardless of true speed).  I let mine go
> > for so long that I  need
> > >both, a new lower speedo cable and an angle drive
> > (which includes the  
> > >plastic
> > >disc, I believe).  To make matters slightly worse,
> > I believe your  
> > >speedometer
> > >will now read slower-than-true, so I suggest using
> > the RPM to MPH  chart _at_dml_ 
> > >DMC
> > >News until you get it fixed.  Wouldn't want you to
> > get  pulled over for 
> > >doing
> > >eight over when your speedometer read five or six 
> > over.
> > >
> > >Regards,
> > >William F.
> > >#1366
>









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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 18:32:17 -0000
From: "M. P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel pump gets hot...

Tom,
     Great question, and thanks for pointing to us.  Yep, we have A 
LOT of experience with fuel delivery issues.  Let me go point by 
point in your email.

A pump sound and quitting isn't good.  Time to go into the tank and 
inspect everything: the pump, the baffle, and the lines.  Chances 
are your pump is letting you know it is giving up.  Mid 70's on a 
full tank is a great fuel situation so for your pump to quit there's 
definitely an issue.  I'd bet on the pump, but visually inspect 
everything and see if you can find an obvious problem.

A bunch of us bought John Hervey's air dam over the past year.  I 
can tell you right off the bat it does not hurt or do anything 
detrimental to the fuel system or to handling.  I have had my car in 
excess of 130 MPH with the air dam and there was no front-end float 
of any kind.  I find it works best when idling or moving in city 
traffic.  Since asphalt temperatures can exceed 130 degrees in the 
summer, the rubber air dam directs that excessive heat away from the 
fuel tank and certainly does its job.  I had a quiet fuel pump all 
summer.

Marv had major pump issues this summer up in Las Vegas.  He 
installed a temperature sensor the pump area to monitor conditions 
and even used a small transmission cooler setup mounted in front of 
the radiator to cool return fuel before being dumped back into the 
tank.  While I agree that this is overkill in most places, it has 
worked for Marv with great success.  Pictures can be found on the AZ-
D Yahoogroup.

While these are good solutions to the symptoms, they won't fix the 
problem, although they have a good chance at alleviating it.  Start 
with a visual inspection and let us know what you find.

Good Luck,

Matt Olans
VIN 16816
www.az-d.org




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_B...> wrote:
>
> I know this has come up before, and that AZ-D probably has the most
> experience with hot weather operation - but in this case it seems 
extreme.
> 
> I've just gotten my car running regularly in the last month or so -
 and on
> some days, even in the mid 70's the fuel pump overheats.  It even 
happens
> when the tank is nearly full.  In all occurrence it seems to 
happen when the
> car idles a lot, as opposed to just driving a lot.
> 
> First the pump gets loud, then it quits, it takes about 90 minutes 
before it
> runs again.
> 
> Is this a sign that I have a kinked pickup line?  Defective pump?  
It sure
> does seem to be tied to the fans blowing hot air on the tank 
because it
> happens during heavy idling periods...
> 
> What experience do any of you have with SpecialTautos Hot air dam?
> 
> Tom
> 10902
>








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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 19:07:28 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: CV boot replacement

Go over to dmcnews.com under technical. You will find the procedure
there. While you are at it you may consider replacing all your boots
and relubing all 4 joints. In all probability it hasn't been done for
25 years and the boots will fail soon. Boots are cheap, the joints are
expensive. Try not to let a half-shaft "hang". Tie them up or you bend
the metal collar that the boot attaches to. Best to just remove them
to work on them.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_j...> wrote:
>
> Hello all.
>   What is the procedure for removing the outer CV joint from the axle?
>  I damaged the boot while installing my clutch, so there is no
> contamination in the joint.  I've looked in the service manual, it
> dosen't mention the CV axles, or I'm not looking in the right place :P
> How do I take this apart?
> 
> Matt Smith
>









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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 19:00:01 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel pump gets hot...

Your fuel pump is dying. It's death was hastened by either a kinked
suction hose, dirty strainer, or a hole in the suction hose allowing
air to get in (any or all of the above). The thing to do now would be
to remove the pump, inspect all the internal parts in the tank,
replace any in deteriorated or questionable condition, and replace the
fuel pump. While you are in there you should drain the tank and wipe
it out to remove any trace of water or dirt.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_B...> wrote:
>
> I know this has come up before, and that AZ-D probably has the most
> experience with hot weather operation - but in this case it seems
extreme.
> 
> I've just gotten my car running regularly in the last month or so -
and on
> some days, even in the mid 70's the fuel pump overheats.  It even
happens
> when the tank is nearly full.  In all occurrence it seems to happen w







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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 19:15:58 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: What to call the Scuba Show... Diving for Deloreans?

The body dies have more of a historical significance than anything
else. Even if they could be recovered in usable condition there will
never be enough of a need to actually use them. When you consider what
the press time, set-up time, cost of materiel and everything else that
would go into it would cost it is not economically feasable for them
to be used. You can't just make a dozen panels and stop, you would
have to make many and who would put that kind of money into an
inventory item that would move so slow? It makes more sense to buy a
cheap, damaged Delorean and strip the panels off of it. Or repair a
damaged panel. BTW even damaged dies *can* be fixed up but it comes
down to economics. Unless you were going to make hundreds of panels it
just doesn't make sense. Panels can be made by hand. It is time
consuming (read expensive), but still cheaper than using the dies. In
fact that is how prototype parts are made before making production dies.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Parts Pit Mike <thepartspit_at_dml_r...> wrote:
>
> cbl1739  wrote: they would be so far damaged,that they would be r








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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 18:57:08 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: CV boot replacement

There's a link to the whole process, photos and all, on the tech page 
at www.dmcnews.com. Look under "transmission". 

Easy, but messy. 

Dave S


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_j...> wrote:
>
> Hello all.
>   What is the procedure for removing the outer CV joint from the axle?
>  I damaged the boot while installing my clutch, so there is no
> contamination in the joint.  I've looked in the service manual, it
> dosen't mention the CV axles, or I'm not looking in the right place :P
> How do I take this apart?
> 
> Matt Smith
>









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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 19:24:52 -0000
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: What to call the Scuba Show... Diving for Deloreans?

True,This would be more like finding relics from time past,but would 
also be helpful in seeing what 20 plus years of underwater does to 
stainless steel,but like any relic recovered from the waters of any 
nations shores,there might be a problem with ownership,and knowing 
the British Government,they might make a big stink over retrieving 
something that they never want in any way recovered,most likely 
it/they would have to be dumped right back INTO the bay,so as not to 
cause any problems,with the previous owners/British Government.
cbl 




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Parts Pit Mike <thepartspit_at_dml_r...> 
wrote:
>
> cbl1739  wrote: they would be so far damaged,that they would be 
rendered useless,IF you could even find them...as they would be 
Barnicle encrusted
>    
>   Pit Mike replies: Yeah but the story would be about the search 
and the determination of the people involved. Even if they pulled up 
a lump of rotting metal I think it would be a cool adventure.
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>








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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 19:08:16 -0000
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: CV boot replacement

Never mind, I found the info I needed online after a short search.

Matt Smith


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_j...> wrote:
>
> Hello all.
>   What is the procedure for removing the outer CV joint from the axle?
>  I damaged the boot while installing my clutch, so there is no
> contamination in the joint.  I've looked in the service manual, it
> dosen't mention the CV axles, or I'm not looking in the right place :P
> How do I take this apart?
> 
> Matt Smith
>








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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 04:10:41 -0000
From: "Jay" <Magnum70_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Teamspeak

hey guys, I set up a VOIP server for discussions, to use it download
the teamspeak client

Infomation: http://www.goteamspeak.com/

Download client: http://www.goteamspeak.com/index.php?page=downloads

when you have teamspeak properly configured and running,type in this
URL into teamspeak.
Link :  tgp.servequake.com
then go down to the channel "DMC News" if you need any help, feel free
to email me

P.S. if you need help setting up the client, check out: 

http://dontcamp.com/tstutorial/ 







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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 11:40:00 -0800
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Fuel pump gets hot...

Thanks David.  The pump is new and all of that was done a year ago,  but
its possible I didn't get everything out of the tank or kinked a hose.

Taking the car down to Don Stenger in a few days,  I'll let them pop it
open and take a look.

Tom 

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of David Teitelbaum
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 11:00 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Fuel pump gets hot...

Your fuel pump is dying. It's death was hastened by either a kinked
suction hose, dirty strainer, or a hole in the suction hose allowing air
to get in (any or all of the above). The thing to do now would be to
remove the pump, inspect all the internal parts in the tank, replace any
in deteriorated or questionable condition, and replace the fuel pump.
While you are in there you should drain the tank and wipe it out to
remove any trace of water or dirt.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_B...> wrote:
>
> I know this has come up before, and that AZ-D probably has the most 
> experience with hot weather operation - but in this case it seems
extreme.
> 
> I've just gotten my car running regularly in the last month or so -
and on
> some days, even in the mid 70's the fuel pump overheats.  It even
happens
> when the tank is nearly full.  In all occurrence it seems to happen w





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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 14:08:17 -0600
From: Chris Murley <qumefox_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Luggage Rack

Jason Ferrara wrote:

>Here is a luggage rack in use
>
>http://www.discordia.org/~jason/newtank.jpg
>
>On Jan 9, 2006, at 5:17 AM, Stuart Nicholls wrote:
>
>
>
That's just funny looking for some reason. :)

--

Chris
VIN# 03209
http://badger.brazi.net/index.pl/delorean



--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.371 / Virus Database: 267.14.17/226 - Release Date: 1/10/2006






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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 14:24:58 -0600
From: Chris Murley <qumefox_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: What to call the Scuba Show... Diving for Deloreans?

cbl1739 wrote:

>True,This would be more like finding relics from time past,but would
>also be helpful in seeing what 20 plus years of underwater does to
>stainless steel,but like any relic recovered from the waters of any
>nations shores,there might be a problem with ownership,and knowing
>the British Government,they might make a big stink over retrieving
>something that they never want in any way recovered,most likely
>it/they would have to be dumped right back INTO the bay,so as not to
>cause any problems,with the previous owners/British Government.
>cbl
>
>
>
>
There most likly wouldn't be a probem with ownership since the fact the
dies were sold off as scrap to a fishery to be used as anchors for fish
farm nets. So unless the fish farm is still in operation, there would be
no owners to complain.  If the fish farm is still in operation though,
they probably wouldn't like people going and pulling up their net
anchors. Who knows what the british government would say. That would
depend on how many powermongers that were around back then still held
office, and how much bad blood was truely still flowing. However I can't
see them causing much fuss about it. Especially since it's unlikly that
both ALL the dies could be located again, and that they'd be in any
condition to ever be used once more if they were located and surfaced.

--

Chris
VIN# 03209
http://badger.brazi.net/index.pl/delorean



--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.371 / Virus Database: 267.14.17/226 - Release Date: 1/10/2006







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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 15:47:00 -0500 (EST)
From: Parts Pit Mike <thepartspit_at_dml_rogers.com>
Subject: Re: Re: What to call the Scuba Show... Diving for Deloreans?

cbl1739 wrote: most likely they would have to be dumped right back INTO the bay,so as not to cause any problems,with the previous owners/British Government.

Parts Pit Mike replies: Wow what an ending!  The scuba guys have to put them back slowly into the water. A proper burial at sea!! Would say a whole lot as well about Government Waste and shortsightedness!
   
  This potential "show" just gets better and better.
   
  Parts Pit Mike
  Canadian Vin 17076 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 20:49:08 -0000
From: "Nick" <nicholden_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: SuperCharger and Engine Vacuum

Hi,

I have almost completed a supercharger and EFI installation.

My question is how exactly does the crankcase get it's vacuum?? and 
what purpose does the brass tube under the fuel distributor serve in 
relation to this (if any.
I have removed all the old EGR system so do i still require the hose 
off the brass tube to the small tube on the filler cap?? The large 
tube on the filler cap i have connected to the intake before the 
throttle plate.

I didnt want to blow the oil cap off the first time i start it!

Is the brass tube under the fuel distributor feeding off the 
manifold or does it go right through and feed into or off the valley
(crankcase)

How would this function now the manifold will be under preasure and 
not vacuum??  I also have a blow off valve that will re-circulate 
the boost back into the intake at idle.

All advice is greatly appreciated. (hope i have explained what i was 
trying to ok!)

Cheers, Nick - Sydney








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