From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 2:48 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3073

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: SuperCharger and Engine Vacuum
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

2. Re: What to call the Scuba Show... Diving for Deloreans?
From: "geoff_ombao" <geoff_ombao_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Re: Speedometer bouncing
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

4. Re: Re: What to call the Scuba Show... Diving for Deloreans?
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

5. Re: Engine Dies at idle HELP!
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

6. another ebay scam??
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

7. RE: Re: What to call the Scuba Show... Diving for Deloreans?
From: "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia_at_dml_comcast.net>

8. RE: CV boot replacement
From: "Shain" <dsmguy_at_dml_ptd.net>

9. Re: What to call the Scuba Show... Diving for Deloreans?
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

10. Re: SuperCharger and Engine Vacuum
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. Windshield washer details?
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>

12. Re: What to call the Scuba Show... Diving for Deloreans?
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Re: SuperCharger and Engine Vacuum
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

14. Re: Fuel pump gets hot...
From: "Dan" <djdanwilson_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Re: Luggage Rack
From: Joe Angell <jangell_at_dml_tmproductions.com>

16. Remaking Fenders.
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. RE: Re: What to call the Scuba Show... Diving for Deloreans?
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. Re: Louder Horns for DMC...one more question.
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

19. Re: Re: What to call the Scuba Show... Diving for Deloreans?
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

20. Re: Engine Dies at idle HELP!
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

21. Re: SuperCharger and Engine Vacuum
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

22. Re: What to call the Scuba Show... Diving for Deloreans?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

23. Re: Remaking Fenders.
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

24. Re: Engine Dies at idle HELP!
From: "valleyrat12" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>

25. Re: Re: Speedometer bouncing
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 02:57:01 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: SuperCharger and Engine Vacuum

Nick - you will need to provide an alternate vacuum source if you supercharge your car.  An electric vacuum pump and a reservoir will be enough to run accessories like your power brake booster and HVAC system.  Devices that rely on the difference between manifold pressure and absolute pressure - like the advance for the distributor need a different kind of change.  The distributor on my Esprit uses a push-pull mechanism.  The diaphragm that drives the advance has a port for a vacuum line and one for a pressurized line.  This way, as boost builds, you don't lose advance.  I haven't looked at what systems use manifold vacuum, but a similar system could be devised for them.

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "Nick" <nicholden_at_dml_yahoo.com>: -------------- 


> Hi,
> 
> I have almost completed a supercharger and EFI installation. 
> 
> My question is how exactly does the crankcase get it's vacuum?? and 
> what purpose does the brass tube under the fuel distributor serve in 
> relation to this (if any.
> I have removed all the old EGR system so do i still require the hose 
> off the brass tube to the small tube on the filler cap?? The large 
> tube on the filler cap i have connected to the intake before the 
> throttle plate.
> 
> I didnt want to blow the oil cap off the first time i start it! 
> 
> Is the brass tube under the fuel distributor feeding off the manifold 
> or does it go right through and feed into or off the valley
> (crankcase)
> 
> How would this function now the manifold will be under preasure and 
> not vacuum?? I also have a blow off valve that will re-circulate the 
> boost back into the intake at idle.
> 
> All advice is greatly appreciated. (hope i have explained what i was 
> trying to ok!)
> 
> Cheers, Nick - Sydney
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: 
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 03:12:23 -0000
From: "geoff_ombao" <geoff_ombao_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: What to call the Scuba Show... Diving for Deloreans?

How difficult would it be to produced a small run of replacement LF fenders? I'd assume that there are some firms out there that could re-create a fender from a sample, or 3D model (perhaps using hydroforming). If necessary to reproduce by hand, could this work be economically done domestically? Overseas?

Please note that manufacturing is not an area of my expertise.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, mike.griese_at_dml_w... wrote:
>
> The problem is, we don't need a couple hundred left front fenders.  
> 
> --
> Mike
> 
> 
> -------------- Original message from Chris Murley <qumefox_at_dml_g...>: 
-------------- 
> 
> 
> > I'm not really so sure about this. If the left front fender dies 
> > were made available again that part alone would probably be cost 
> > effective enough to reman a few hundred of them. Granted they would 
> > still be quite expensive, at least they wouldn't be so rare. The 
> > other panels, your right. They are available enough as it is on the 
> > NOS/used markets not to be worth the cost.
> > 
> > 
> > --
> > 
> > Chris
> > VIN# 03209
> > http://badger.brazi.net/index.pl/delorean
> > 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>








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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 02:41:08 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Speedometer bouncing

The bouncing is usually caused by the OEM lower cable that is too long 
(a subsequent change used a shorter cable - there was a bulletin on 
this I believe). The longer cable has too much bend in it and allows 
the cable to have accelerating rotations in it. Poor lubrication will 
usually amplify the acceleration and the bouncing. If it is lubricated 
with a proper, thin, non hardening lubricant it will usually minimize 
after some "settling in". Unfortunately, the longer lower cable also 
allowed moisture to collect in a trap effect in the cable behind the 
front wheel before it entered the car (there is usually some extra 
rubber piece over the cable too that help this) thus causing seizure 
of the cable in the housing and often destroying the angle drive when 
it seizes. The longer cable can cause various problems.

Order the shorter cable from DMCH (the last time I tried they were 
out) or, get the Teflon coated cable from DPNW. DPNW's is a longer 
cable and initially had some of the bounce but after running a while 
is virtually all gone.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_b...> wrote:
>
> I too have a bouncing speedo.  I've done a bunch of things to it and 
it
> still bounces.
> 
> Anyway, here are additional thoughts:
> - Check to see that the cable through the hub is not pushing the 
yellow cap
> out a bit.  If so it will kink the cable when the hub is tight.  







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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 03:06:39 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Re: What to call the Scuba Show... Diving for Deloreans?

Not quite.  Imagine for a moment some divers "salvaging" 50 miles
of underwater oil pipeline.  Salvage applies to property lost at sea.
Ballast attached to fishing equipment is definitely not lost.

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>: -------------- 


> Ownership of the dies is not that big a problem. The British 
> government sold the dies to a fishing company so the government no 
> longer has any interest or say in the use or the handling of the dies. 
> The ownership of the dies is now with the fishing company but maybe 
> they can be recovered under the Maritime Salvage laws. I am no expert 
> in that but if it is under the water and someone "salvages" them they 
> (the salvagers) may then become the rightful owners. This *could* be 
> interesting enough to get one of the cable channels to help. You would 
> not have to recover ALL of the dies, one or two would be enough. 
> Remember, each die set is composed of a female AND a male component so 
> if you wanted to get an actual working set you must recover the 2 
> parts that go together. In any search like this you begin with 
> research. You try to identify from a paperwork trail exactly what you 
> are looking for (the # and type of dies, markings, and weights, for 
> instance) who dumped them, where they were dumped, etc. These things 
> are heavy, you would need a large boat equiped with a crane capable of 
> lifing them. From research you will find out just how heavy they are. 
> There had to be some kind of document when the dies were sold to the 
> fishing company or maybe from the bankrupcy records. Of course we are 
> talking 25 years ago so much of what you would be looking for won't be 
> found. 
> David Teitelbaum 
> vin 10757 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 03:08:20 -0000
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Engine Dies at idle HELP!

Hi David

does not the lambda system only cut in when the car has warmed?

unless the thermister is faulty,  telling the lambda system the car 
is warm when it is not?

is it best to do the removal/bypass of idle system using the screws 
to help narrow the problem?

Regards

Steve

Regards

Steve


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_o...> 
wrote:
>
> This is usually caused by a problem in the Control Pressure 
Regulator
> circuit or the Lambda system. Make sure the vacuum hoses are 
hooked up
> and not leaking to the CPR. Make sure the frequency valve is 
buzzing.
> Also check that you are tripping the idle micro.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Christopher Mack
> <christopher_mack_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> >
> > Nathan, 
> > 
> > I am having a similar problem with my DL. The problem
> > would be where the idle gets low when the car is cold
> > and the car will not restart.  I had the problem fixed
> > but now my car is runing too rich, sounds like my
> >
>









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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 03:31:02 -0000
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: another ebay scam??

hi all

have you seen the delorean vin ...901 'good condition' for $5500 on 
ebay this just has to be a scam surely as this wouldn't buy a rebuild 
project. if its true for a good running car i'll take it!!!!!

the feedback is 100% but surely this acount has been 'cracked'. maybe 
someone over your way (i'm in the UK) can check it out and make sure 
someone does not get stung.

Regards

Steve







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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 19:50:24 -0700
From: "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: RE: Re: What to call the Scuba Show... Diving for Deloreans?

I know a master diver who might be interested... how serious are you.  do
you know the depth?? exact location?? timeline?

Darkstar

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Marc Levy
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 12:48 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: What to call the Scuba Show... Diving for
Deloreans?


It was never my intention to raise these tools..
However, I would assume they are owned by the fishing
company that sank them.  For all we know, they are
still "in use" holding nets that are still farmed.

So, if anyone missed it I am still looking for people
interested in DIVING the site to just see the tools.
Let me know if you are.


--- cbl1739 <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> nations shores,there might be a problem with
> ownership,and knowing
> the British Government,they might make a big stink
> over retrieving
> something that they never want in any way
> recovered,most likely
> it/they would have to be dumped right back INTO the
> bay,so as not to
> cause any problems,with the previous owners/British
> Government.
> cbl
>
>
>
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Parts Pit Mike
> <thepartspit_at_dml_r...>
> wrote:
> >
> > cbl1739  wrote: they would be so far damaged,that
> they would be
> rendered useless,IF you could even find them...as
> they would be
> Barnicle encrusted
> >
> >   Pit Mike replies: Yeah but the story would be
> about the search
> and the determination of the people involved. Even
> if they pulled up
> a lump of rotting metal I think it would be a cool
> adventure.





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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 22:25:10 -0500
From: "Shain" <dsmguy_at_dml_ptd.net>
Subject: RE: CV boot replacement

Just a good idea.  I just re did my axles.  I used a synthetic grease and
had the axles powder coated.  Just while your there I guess.  It's a dirty
job, but well worth the time.

-Shain

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 9:10 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] CV boot replacement

 
 
In a message dated 1/11/2006 12:32:30 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com writes:

Hello  all.
What is the procedure for removing the outer CV joint from the  axle?
I damaged the boot while installing my clutch, so there is  no
contamination in the joint.  I've looked in the service manual,  it
dosen't mention the CV axles, or I'm not looking in the right place  :P
How do I take this apart?

Matt Smith


>>>
Matt,
 
Any idea when the last time the CV joints were cleaned and packed?   Now's a

good time to do it - you don't want to have to replace them if they  break!!
 
You have to remove the axle from the car (take all the bolts off of the  
yokes on the ends).  Then you can pop the cap off of the end of the axle
and I 
think there is a snap ring in there.  Actually just check the tech  articles

section of DMC News.com where Dave Swingle made a great write-up on the  
procedure (Constant Velocity Joint Service).  That will tell you everything
you need 
to know.  Marty Maier used to sell a great CV boot/grease kit - I  would 
recommend that one if you want to do them all while you are at.   Takes
about an 
hour per axle and is really messy!
 
Andy
 
Fargo, ND  
1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596




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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 03:37:25 -0000
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: What to call the Scuba Show... Diving for Deloreans?



Naa,Nothing like that,the British Government(in a attempt to make 
sure that the Delorean would never be produced again) sold them off
(the dies) to a Fishing Company,and they used them(sank them) to 
anchor down their fishing nets,and have been there since.
cbl


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>
> OK, now I am lost... were the dies lost when a boat sank? What 
would 
> the dies be doing in the water? Wouldn't it be cheaper to make a 
new 
> die?
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Parts Pit Mike <thepartspit_at_dml_r...> 
> wrote:
> >
> > Seriously this is a GREAT story.. especially if you guys 
> can "Raise the Deloreans."
> >    
> >   
> > 
> > Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> >   So, give them a call! :)
> > 
> > I would not mind Discovery paying my dive expenses. 
> > LOL!
> > 
> > 
> > --- Parts Pit Mike wrote:
> > 
> > > Wow this would be a great TV show for Speedvision or
> > > the Discovery Network.
> > > 
> > > A gang of scuba diving Delorean fans travel off
> > > the coast of Ireland in search of the Lost Dies that
> > > made the famous car. 
> > > 
> > > I AM serious here by the way... certainly a human
> > > interest story for the papers.
> > > 
> > > Parts Pit Mike
> > > VIN 1707
> >
>








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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 21:15:39 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: SuperCharger and Engine Vacuum

Hook the PCV hose someplace before the supercharger...

Or, just leave it open to the atmosphere (not as
environmentally friendly)


--- Nick <nicholden_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:

> Hi,
> 
> I have almost completed a supercharger and EFI
> installation.
> 
> My question is how exactly does the crankcase get
> it's vacuum?? and 
> what purpose does the brass tube under the fuel
> distributor serve in 
> relation to this (if any.
> I have removed all the old EGR system so do i still
> require the hose 
> off the brass tube to the small tube on the filler
> cap?? The large 
> tube on the filler cap i have connected to the
> intake before the 
> throttle plate.
> 
> I didnt want to blow the oil cap off the first time
> i start it!
> 
> Is the brass tube under the fuel distributor feeding
> off the 
> manifold or does it go right through and feed into
> or off the valley
> (crankcase)
> 
> How would this function now the manifold will be
> under preasure and 
> not vacuum??  I also have a blow off valve that will
> re-circulate 
> the boost back into the intake at idle.
> 
> All advice is greatly appreciated. (hope i have
> explained what i was 
> trying to ok!)
> 
> Cheers, Nick - Sydney





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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 20:04:23 -0800
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: Windshield washer details?

My car came with nothing attached to the windshield washer connection. I
have all the parts now, but the parts manual image isn't great for figuring
out just how it gets put onto the arm.  Can anyone point me toward photos of
the wiper arm with the bits installed onto it?  Feel free to email off list.

Tom Tait
ttait_at_dml_brcweb.com
#10902





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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 21:20:25 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: What to call the Scuba Show... Diving for Deloreans?

"One of you guys"??

Aren't you one of us?  :)

I have a friend that works with a production company
that does programs for Discovery.  They specifically
only work on educational programs, but I have asked if
they can get me a contact at Discovery channel to talk
to.

However, this does not mean you or anyone else can
also make some calls to Discovery Channel.

The "Monster Garage" team may also have some contacts.



--- Chuck McKnight <gullwingdoors_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:

> One of you guys really should call Discovery. 
> They've done enough other stuff on the De Lorean,
> why not this?  They could also tie in the 25th
> anniversary of DMC, and maybe do a brief history.
>    
>   Chuck




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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 11:51:12 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: SuperCharger and Engine Vacuum

Hi Nick

You seem to be a bit confused here, but I'll see what I can come up with...

 >My question is how exactly does the crankcase get it's vacuum??
 >
The crank case is vented through the oil filler. It's not necessarily
under vacuum at all times.

 >and
 >what purpose does the brass tube under the fuel distributor serve in
 >relation to this (if any.
 >
The brass pipe under the metering head, or under the whole intake
venturi? The one directly beneath the metering head is the idlespeed
throttle-bypass. The big long one with the cold start injector on the
end serves to apply engine vacuum to the oil filler, to the charcoal
cannister, and connects directly to the centre of all siz intake ports,
so is connected to the idlespeed motor, and the cold start injector.

 >I have removed all the old EGR system so do i still require the hose
 >off the brass tube to the small tube on the filler cap??
 >
The DeLorean engine does not have EGR. But the answer is yes, you still
need that. I would install a non-return valve in it through so you don't
end up pressurising the crank case too much to the point of blowing oil
out through the main seals. However the Renault ones don't have the
vacuum feed, just the breather. The cap is clipped on and the breather
has a catch tank that feeds back to the sump.

 >The large
 >tube on the filler cap i have connected to the intake before the
 >throttle plate.
 >
That goes to the air intake simply so it gets filtered air drawn through
and into the intake via the smaller hose.

 >Is the brass tube under the fuel distributor feeding off the
 >manifold or does it go right through and feed into or off the valley
 >(crankcase)
 >
You've done this installation and you haven't had the intake manifold
off?! It goes to the manifold. It's part of the air intake.

 >How would this function now the manifold will be under preasure and
 >not vacuum??
 >
The same as all the othe aftermarket turbo engines: Not as it was
designed to.

 > I also have a blow off valve that will re-circulate
 >the boost back into the intake at idle.
 >
A blow-off valve (dump valve over here) is there to vent boost when the
throttles shut and is actuated with vacuum downstream of the throttles.
It doesn't do anything at idle.

Martin







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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 08:11:42 -0000
From: "Dan" <djdanwilson_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel pump gets hot...

> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_B...> wrote:
> >
> > I know this has come up before, and that AZ-D probably has the 
> > most experience with hot weather operation - but in this case
> > it seems extreme... on some days, even in the mid 70's the fuel
> > pump overheats. It even happens when the tank is nearly full...
> > First the pump gets loud, then it quits, it takes about 90 minutes
> > before it runs again.
> > 
> > What experience do any of you have with SpecialTautos Hot air dam?

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "M. P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> 
> A bunch of us bought John Hervey's air dam over the past
> year...Since asphalt temperatures can exceed 130 degrees in the 
> summer, the rubber air dam directs that excessive heat away from the 
> fuel tank and certainly does its job.  I had a quiet fuel pump all 
> summer.

I too live in Phoenix. I purchased my D one year ago today. I always
feel I'm going to jinx myself by saying stuff like this, but after one
year and 3,444 miles I've had absolutely no fuel pump issues with what
I estimate is a three year old pump. I've driven the car almost every
weekend since I purchased it, which includes a number of 105+ degree
summer days. Nothing against John Hervey's products, but I did not
need his hot air dam in place to accomplish this.

Also, my cooling system is still original, which includes the factory
radiator. The engine ran between 195 & 210 degrees on those same 105+
degree days. This tells me a factory radiator and cooling system has
the ability to adequately cool the engine, even here in Phoenix during
the summer. Still, just because it has the "ability", it does not
necessarily mean it has durability in this climate, but the car came
here from CA in '86, and it's radiator has lasted 20 years and 18,072
miles in this climate. Plastic pieces or not, it appears to have been
a pretty decent radiator. Nonetheless, I do intend to replace it some
time this year, hopefully before I have a problem.

I guess the point I'm trying to make is, it would appear to me that if
everything is functioning correctly, the car's fuel pump should not
act up or fail simply due to the outside air temperature, therefore it
should not need a crutch to help it along, and the factory cooling
system should also cool sufficiently, and if it's not, then there is a
problem unrelated to it's design. Again, I'm not a mechanic, nor an
engineer. I'm only passing along my experience over one year,
including a Phoenix spring and summer, with my particular car. I can't
say what will happen in the future if I don't keep up on preventive
maintenance. (knocking on wood, lol)

Dan W.
VIN 16192
AZ-D







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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 04:08:02 -0500
From: Joe Angell <jangell_at_dml_tmproductions.com>
Subject: Re: Luggage Rack


Here's mine hauling all four summer tires on the luggage rack, held  
down with bungie chords.

	http://www.tmproductions.com/Misc/Misc-Images/DMCCarryingTires.jpg

I usually just leave the luggage rack on the car.  I just got it in  
November and I've used it two or three times so far.

Unfortunately, Vermont weather has already caused parts of the  
luggage rack and the hinged anchors to rust, mostly where metal is in  
contact with other metal (the vast majority of the rack still looks  
fine; it's just when you take it off that you can see the rusted  
areas).  It can be cleaned up pretty easily, and the stainless is of  
course undamaged.

-- Joe


>> Does anyone have any pictures of a car with the luggage rack
>> fitted? I'd
>> love to see what one looks like.
>>
>> Stuart
>> VIN# 5641 "Maddie"
>> DOC 414
>>





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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 06:32:47 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Remaking Fenders.

It is strange that this discussion comes up all the
time on the DML.

Has *ANYONE* had a problem getting a body part when
they need it?

Unlike other orphan cars, we have the advantage of
being able to take a fender off of a junk car that has
been exposed to the elements for 20 years, and clean
it up with some elbow-grease in no time at all.

If it was necessary, and cost effective to reproduce
any parts I am sure it would have been done already. 
People are not going to throw away their DeLoreans
because they cant find a fender.


--- geoff_ombao <geoff_ombao_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:

> How difficult would it be to produced a small run of
> replacement LF fenders? I'd assume 
> that there are some firms out there that could
> re-create a fender from a sample, or 3D 
> model (perhaps using hydroforming). If necessary to
> reproduce by hand, could this work 
> be economically done domestically? Overseas?
> 
> Please note that manufacturing is not an area of my
> expertise.
>

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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 06:28:12 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Re: What to call the Scuba Show... Diving for Deloreans?

Most of the details I have have been discussed on the
DML in the past few days.

Diving is a significant factor in my decision to go to
Eurofest, which is why I was "fishing" for interest
from others.  If I do go to Eurofest, I would also
want to stay for the Lotus event the following
weekend.  Costing flights to get to Belfast for
Eurofest, then back to London to hang out for the week
until the Lotus event seems to be costly. 


--- Darkstar <darkstarmedia_at_dml_comcast.net> wrote:

> I know a master diver who might be interested... how
> serious are you.  do
> you know the depth?? exact location?? timeline?
> 
> Darkstar
>

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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 14:53:30 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Louder Horns for DMC...one more question.

I think the biggest problem with upgrading the horns is that if you do
not use a horn relay you will melt the horn switch and wiring in the
steering column. Just about every modern (after 1950) car uses a horn
relay. With all the relays used in a Delorean I can't imagine why they
would cheap out and not use one for the horns! Wiring one up is no big
deal if you are familiar with automotive wiring. It should be on it's
own circuit so if it does fail it doesn't take anything else out with
it. Most safety related systems (wipers, lights, brake lights, etc)
are on their own independant circuits just for that reason, not
because of current requirements.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_c...> wrote:
>
> Alex,
> Keep in mind there are other accessories on that fuse. So the wiring
to the 
> horns may only be rated for the stock ones. The D's wiring wasn't
designed 
> very well, so it would be possible to overload the horn circuit and not 
> blow a fuse. Sure if you shorted it, the overload would be short en







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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 14:37:02 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Re: What to call the Scuba Show... Diving for Deloreans?

The supply of left front fenders is fine - we don't need to make any.  There are
no DeLoreans running around without a left front fender.  There are left front
fenders gathering dust waiting to be installed.  There are other cars that will 
never run again with left front fenders gathering dust waiting to fall off.  

We do not need more left front fenders.

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "geoff_ombao" <geoff_ombao_at_dml_yahoo.com>: -------------- 


> How difficult would it be to produced a small run of replacement LF fenders? I'd 
> assume 
> that there are some firms out there that could re-create a fender from a sample, 
> or 3D 
> model (perhaps using hydroforming). If necessary to reproduce by hand, could 
> this work 
> be economically done domestically? Overseas? 
> 
> Please note that manufacturing is not an area of my expertise. 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 14:59:20 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Dies at idle HELP!

The frequency valve should be buzzing even when the motor is cold. The
Lambda is running in "fixed" mode until the engine and the O2 sensor
warms up.

Unless you can't keep the motor running at all at idle it is not
necessary to "bypass" the idle motor system.

David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
>
> Hi David
> 
> does not the lambda system only cut in when the car has warmed?
> 
> unless the thermister is faulty,  telling the lambda system the car 
> is warm when it is not?
> 
> is it best to do the removal/bypass of idle system using the screws 
> to help narrow the problem?
>







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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 15:12:39 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: SuperCharger and Engine Vacuum

If you are adding a supercharger one of the things you should be doing
is reading the Workshop Manual. You need to familarize yourself with
all of the car's (and motor's) systems so you know what effects you
will be having on them so you can figure out how to get everything to
work. Running a motor and not being able to use engine vacuum to run
some of the systems in a Delorean will present some challanges! This
is why a turbocharger is, in some respects, an easier installation. If
you are adding an electric supercharger maybe you can turn it on and
off so you have vacuum most of the time.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd
<martin_at_dml_d...> wrote:
>
> Hi Nick
> 
> You seem to be a bit confused here, but I'll see what I can come up
with...
> 
>  >My question is how exactly does the crankcase get it's vacuum??
>  >
> The crank case is vented through the oil filler. It's not necessarily
> under vacuum at all times.
> 
>  >and
>  >what purpose does the brass tube under the fuel distributor serve in
>  >relation to this (if any.
>  >
> The brass pipe under the metering head, or under the whole intake
> venturi? The one directly beneath the metering head is the idlespeed
> throttle-bypass. The big long one with the cold start injector on the
> end serves to apply engine vacuum to the oil filler, to the charcoal
> cannister, and connects directly to the centre of all siz intake ports,
> so is connected to the idlespeed motor, and the cold start injector.
> 
>  >I have removed all the old EGR system so do i still require the hose
>  >off the brass tube to the small tube on the filler cap??
>  >
> The DeLorean engine does not have EGR. But the answer is yes, you still
> need that. I would install a non-return valve in it through so you d







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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 15:16:37 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: What to call the Scuba Show... Diving for Deloreans?

It is not a matter of not being able to actually GET a body panel.
Most people confuse availablity with price. When you can't get one at
any price THEN you consider making them. Do not mislead yourself and
think that if someone started making fenders they would get cheaper,
that probably would not happen, in fact the opposite would probably occur.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, mike.griese_at_dml_w... wrote:
>
> The supply of left front fenders is fine - we don't need to make
any.  There are
> no DeLoreans running around without a left front fender.  There are
left front
> fenders gathering dust waiting to be installed.  There are other c








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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 15:22:45 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Remaking Fenders.

Agreed - I'm sure at this time I could find 4 or 5 left front fenders 
on the market if I really needed them. But I don't need them, and 
neither does anyone else. As cars are getting scrapped faster than they 
are getting wrecked, more become available. Another factor is that 
several people now have very strong talents in repairing the stainless, 
so bent parts that would have been replaced a few years ago are now 
being repaired. 

Someone mentioned (I think near the beginning of this thread) one that 
recently didn't sell on ebay at $1k. That's a good market indicator. 

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>
> It is strange that this discussion comes up all the
> time on the DML.
> 
> Has *ANYONE* had a problem getting a body part when
> they need it?
> 









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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 16:07:03 -0000
From: "valleyrat12" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Dies at idle HELP!

Does that mean that when first warming up the frequency valve should 
be buzzing at a steady rate? Mine fluctuates causing the typical 
idle hunt even when the engine is cold, but it is buzzing. 

Nathan
2277
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_o...> 
wrote:
>
> The frequency valve should be buzzing even when the motor is cold. 
The
> Lambda is running in "fixed" mode until the engine and the O2 
sensor
> warms up.
> 
> Unless you can't keep the motor running at all at idle it is not
> necessary to "bypass" the idle motor system.
> 
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "blackaddertoo" 
<blackaddertoo_at_dml_y...>
> wrote:
> >
> > Hi David
> > 
> > does not the lambda system only cut in when the car has warmed?
> > 
> > unless the thermister is faulty,  telling the lambda system the 
car 
> > is warm when it is not?
> > 
> > is it best to do the removal/bypass of idle system using the 
screws 
> > to help narrow the problem?
> >
>








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Message: 25
Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 09:13:48 -0800
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Speedometer bouncing

Just wanted to write a note of thanks to everyone for your responses.
To sum up real quick:

1. Angle drive should be lubricated. I did this last weekend and it
seemed to help a bit, but not much.

2. Lube the cables with a speedometer lube (A couple of people
recommended a graphite lube from Napa made for speedometer cables).
Start with the lower, move on to the upper if it doesn't help (or just
do both, can't hurt).

3. Check the drive disc to ensure it's not slipping. Make sure the
square hole is not rounded out and the cable goes in far enough to be
secure.

4. Lastly, replacing the OEM cable with a slightly shorter cable from
DMCH is a good idea.

I'll start working down these points until it is solved. I'm thinking
a good cable inspection and lube, and potential replacement of the
lower cable, should do the trick.

Thanks again,

-Ryan


________________________________________________________________________
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