From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2006 11:43 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3077

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Re: Key duplicity
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

2. Re: The Return of DeLorean World
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

3. Re: Crap in fuel pump + normal pump sound?
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

4. Re: Crap in fuel pump + normal pump sound?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

5. Re: Key duplicity
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>

6. Otterstat Popped Out While Driving
From: "trdstne71" <trdstne71_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Re: Otterstat Popped Out While Driving
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>

8. Re: Crap in fuel pump + normal pump sound?
From: "valleyrat12" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Re: Re: Otterstat Popped Out While Driving
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>

10. Re: Otterstat Popped Out While Driving
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

11. Re: Re: Otterstat Popped Out While Driving
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

12. Re: Otterstat Popped Out While Driving
From: "trdstne71" <trdstne71_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Re: Otterstat Popped Out While Driving
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

14. Re: Otterstat Popped Out While Driving
From: "trdstne71" <trdstne71_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Re: Otterstat Popped Out While Driving
From: "pjgrady2000" <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

16. Re: Otterstat Popped Out While Driving
From: "Randal" <azman3us_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. Re: Re: Otterstat Popped Out While Driving
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

18. Re: Otterstat Popped Out While Driving
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

19. Two Different Louvre Styles--Anyone else ever noticed this?
From: "Patrick C." <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>

20. Re: Two Different Louvre Styles--Anyone else ever noticed this?
From: Johnny Sawyer <johnny.sawyer_at_dml_gmail.com>

21. Re: Crap in fuel pump + normal pump sound?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

22. COLORIZED DELOREAN WIRING DIAGRAM
From: mike clemens <rmclemns_at_dml_yahoo.com>

23. Re: Two Different Louvre Styles--Anyone else ever noticed this?
From: "valleyrat12" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>

24. Alternator Sound
From: "valleyrat12" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>

25. Re: Re: Otterstat Popped Out While Driving
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2006 20:58:27 -0800
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Key duplicity

Where is the circuit for the inertia switch? I've already got a starter kill on my alarm system, but might as well flip the inertia switch too. ;-)

-Ryan

On 1/13/06, David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net> wrote:
> that fits inside them can turn them. The inertia switch can prevent 
> the motor from starting but does nothing to prevent someone from 
> opening the doors. You are correct in assuming that there was a


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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2006 01:28:26 EST
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: The Return of DeLorean World

I recieved my copy a few weeks ago and have been too busy to actually write back and thank Sasha and the others on the magazine.  

This was a good reading issue and I too was glad to see the return of DeLorean World (name)

The people are what makes these organizations work and I am glad to see more of that in this issue.  As you all know the DCS has done this and kept the people as the focal point.

I really like seeing members and such on the covers and I see now that DeLorean World has done this as well.

Great issue
And thanks Sasha.

Stay tuned to the DCS However as I am working on a big surprise for the show and today I got confirmation.  All I have to do is work out details.  So if you miss the show you will miss the second biggest surprise I have to offer. 
(John being the biggest in Cleveland)

Ken
DeLorean Car Show Inc
DeLorean Car Show Magazine



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2006 14:42:52 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Crap in fuel pump + normal pump sound?

Your trouble with the decomposed filter screen is common for well aged systems that have set in decomposed fuel. Replacing ALL the affected components is important for getting the system back to a trouble free operation. Sometimes the fuel distributor and injectors can be salvaged because the decomposed fuel dried up much sooner than the stuff in the fuel tank or components such as the filter and accumulator that had larger quantities of fuel trapped in them.

If you have ingested trash through the pump, and it sounds like you have, you should replace it. The damage may just leave you stranded somewhere down the road. Since some of the trash may have passed on downstream I would replace all components, except the lines, from the tank filter through the fuel filter - that would include the accumulator. I would also recommend a thorough cleaning of the fuel lines - like blowing out with air - before replacement of your fuel system pieces.

Run some Marvel Mystery Oil through the system for a few tanks to finish cleaning out the system. I use it virtually all the time since it also acts as a light stabilizer for the fuel.

Harold McElraft - 3354



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "valleyrat12" <valleyrat12_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
>
> When my pump was hooked up I would jump the RMP relay to get it 
> running and I noticed this: the pump would operate for 10-12
seconds 
> at a higher pitch (while pressuring up I imagine) then drop
abruptly 
> to a lower pitch. Is this normal, or should the pump sound be 
> constant, or is 10-12 seconds too long, should it pressure up
faster? 
> I am thinking this could be related to my starting issue.
> 
> As per my last post the fuel screen for my pump disintegrated and
was 
> ingested. Is it possible to reverse the pump operation to clean it 
> out, or is there any way to clean it out? Am I better off with a
new 
> pump? It is a new pump. 
> 
> Nathan
> 2277 apart and sad :-(
>








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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2006 17:45:10 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Crap in fuel pump + normal pump sound?

As the pump pressurizes the fuel system it will slow down and the sound changes, that's normal. The timing is because it takes some time to pump up the accumulator. As for the fuel screen that the pump ingested that is BAD. For it to have done that the screen must have been completly blocked with dirt so the pump literaly sucked the screen and the dirt right in. After that there was no screen to stop all the other dirt so it also went through the pump. The pump is probably on borrowed time. Maybe you don't have to change it immediatly but I would order another to have on hand so when it does die you can put it right in. I would scrub the tank clean with acetone and all the parts inside. Make sure it is scrupulosly clean. Drive the car and use up at least 1 tank of gas then replace the fuel filter.
After that check the pattern on the injectors, they should be OK but with that much dirt having gone through the system they should be checked just to be sure they are OK.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "valleyrat12" <valleyrat12_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>
> When my pump was hooked up I would jump the RMP relay to get it 
> running and I noticed this: the pump would operate for 10-12 seconds 
> at a higher pitch (while pressuring up I imagine) then drop abruptly 
> to a lower pitch. Is this normal, or should the pump sound be
> 








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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2006 18:39:41 -0000
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Key duplicity

Driver's side on the side wall. Not too hard to find. Plunger moves up 
and down.  I don't recall the on/off positions but if your car is 
running now, off is opposite of that! 

Marv
#10820
AZ-D


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_g...> wrote:
>
> Where is the circuit for the inertia switch? I've already got a
> starter kill on my alarm system, but might as well flip the inertia
> switch too. ;-)
> 
> -Ryan
> 
> On 1/13/06, David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> > that fits inside them can turn them. The inertia switch can prevent
> > the motor from starting but does nothing to prevent someone from
> > opening the doors. You are correct in assuming that there was a
>








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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2006 18:08:47 -0000
From: "trdstne71" <trdstne71_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Otterstat Popped Out While Driving

Hello!

New to the group...  I've owned a Delorean for almost two years 
now.  Love every second of it, but naturally have started doing my 
own repairs...  :-)

I've been having overheating issues and after researching on the 
internet, I believe my otterstat is dead and the fans don't ever 
come on.  To test this theory, I popped the otterstat out and 
jumpered the fan wires directly - the fans came on immediately - so 
I know they're not bad.  But I never hear them come on while I'm 
driving or idling.

Long story short, I put the bad otterstat back in (ordered a new low 
temp one as I live in sunny AZ) and continued to drive the car.  
Last night, my engine temp skyrocketed - fortunately only a couple 
hundred yards from home.  Got back and found that sure enough - the 
otterstat had popped out by itself - which leads me to believe I 
didn't reconnect it very well.

Which finally brings me to my question...  Usually Fan Temperature 
switches screw in...  this one just seems to sit there and be held 
in with a small chinsy metal clip.  Doesn't seem very strong for a 
high pressure/temperature system.  Is there some special way to 
really make sure it's well and truly secured?  I am particularly 
concerned because I should be receiving the new otterstat soon but 
it won't do me much good if it just pops out at the next turn...

Thanks all,

Treadstone71







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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2006 19:36:54 -0000
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Otterstat Popped Out While Driving

You could use a nylon tie wrap to hold in in, in addition to the metal
clip.  The tie wrap will not be affected by the heat of the cooling
system, but could be from the heat of the exhaust system.  So if you
use the tie wrap, check on it once in a while for deteriotation, and
replace when necessary, cheap insurance against an overheated engine.

Bernie

VIN 4045 and 6704

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "trdstne71" <trdstne71_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>
> Hello!
> 
> New to the group...  I've owned a Delorean for almost two years 
> now.  Love every second of it, but naturally have started doing my 
> own repairs...  :-)
> 
> I've been having overheating issues and after researching on the 
> internet, I believe my otterstat is dead and the fans don't ever 
> come on.  To test this theory, I popped the otterstat out and 
> jumpered the fan wires directly - the fans came on immediately - so 
> I know they're not bad.  But I never hear them come on while I'm 
> driving or idling.
> 
> Long story short, I put the bad otterstat back in (ordered a new low 
> temp one as I live in sunny AZ) and continued to drive the car.  
> Last night, my engine temp skyrocketed - fortunately only a couple 
> hundred yards from home.  Got back and found that sure enough - the 
> otterstat had popped out by itself - which leads me to believe I 
> didn't reconnect it very well.
> 
> Which finally brings me to my question...  Usually Fan Temperature 
> switches screw in...  this one just seems to sit there and be held 
> in with a small chinsy metal clip.  Doesn't seem very strong for a 
> high pressure/temperature system.  Is there some special way to 
> really make sure it's well and truly secured?  I am particularly 
> concerned because I should be receiving the new otterstat soon but 
> it won't do me much good if it just pops out at the next turn...
> 
> Thanks all,
> 
> Treadstone71
>









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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2006 21:09:20 -0000
From: "valleyrat12" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Crap in fuel pump + normal pump sound?

The fuel filter would catch all that stuff right? So, everthing past 
the filter should be good? The car would drive fairly well 
considering what I pulled out of the pump, is that common? 

Nathan

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_o...> 
wrote:
>
> As the pump pressurizes the fuel system it will slow down and the
> sound changes, that's normal. The timing is because it takes some 
time
> to pump up the accumulator. As for the fuel screen that the pump
> ingested that is BAD. For it to have done that the screen must have
> been completly blocked with dirt so the pump literaly sucked the
> screen and the dirt right in. After that there was no screen to 
stop
> all the other dirt so it also went through the pump. The pump is
> probably on borrowed time. Maybe you don't have to change it
> immediatly but I would order another to have on hand so when it 
does
> die you can put it right in. I would scrub the tank clean with 
acetone
> and all the parts inside. Make sure it is scrupulosly clean. Drive 
the
> car and use up at least 1 tank of gas then replace the fuel filter.
> After that check the pattern on the injectors, they should be OK 
but
> with that much dirt having gone through the system they should be
> checked just to be sure they are OK.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "valleyrat12" <valleyrat12_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> >
> > When my pump was hooked up I would jump the RMP relay to get it 
> > running and I noticed this: the pump would operate for 10-12 
seconds 
> > at a higher pitch (while pressuring up I imagine) then drop 
abruptly 
> > to a lower pitch. Is this normal, or should the pump sound be 
> >
>








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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2006 15:44:34 -0600
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Otterstat Popped Out While Driving

Hmmm.. question about this otterstadt and the metal clip:
can the metal clip ground out one of the connections on the otterstat and
either cause the fans to run continuous or not all?
Seems like it could, which could my issue, they run constantly and the
engine never warms up enough when its not hot outside.
-Jason Bourne-- er, Kevin


On 1/14/06, Bernie <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net> wrote:
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "trdstne71" <trdstne71_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> > Which finally brings me to my question...  Usually Fan Temperature
> > switches screw in...  this one just seems to sit there and be held
> > in with a small chinsy metal clip.  Doesn't seem very strong for a
> > high pressure/temperature system.  Is there some special way to
> > really make sure it's well and truly secured?  I am particularly
> > concerned because I should be receiving the new otterstat soon but
> > it won't do me much good if it just pops out at the next turn...
> >
> > Thanks all,
> >
> > Treadstone71
> >
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2006 20:43:33 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Otterstat Popped Out While Driving

You probably did not snap the clip on right. Usually the clip is fine.
If you want just use a nylon strap-tie around the pipe and between the
wire clips on the otterstadt switch. Refill and bleed the system. I
don't know that even in AZ you actually need a "low temp" otterstadt.
Since the motor is supposed to run at least 190 I don't think it gets
that hot even in AZ. You did not have to remove the otterstadt switch
to test it. Just pull the wires off and use a paper clip to connect
the wires together. If the fans come right on then the rest of the
circuit should be working correctly. Use an uprated circuit breaker
and remove the fan fail relay. Your otterstadt switch should install
from the bottom. On early cars they were installed on the top. If
yours is on top it is an easy fix. I suspect your overheating problems
started because you have coolant leaks and your system became
airbound. Pressure test and bleed. If after that you have to add
coolant you have leaks. They must be fixed or you will continue to
have overheating problems. Test the cap also. If the cap does not
release at 15 psi that can cause the ottterstadt switch to blow out.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_c...> wrote:
>
> You could use a nylon tie wrap to hold in in, in addition to the metal
> clip.  The tie wrap will not be affected by the heat of the cooling
> system, but could be from the heat of the exhaust system.  So if you
> 







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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2006 00:07:05 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Otterstat Popped Out While Driving

The rad fan switch works on a positive supply, fed off fuse #5 from 
memory. The legs are insulated for the first quarter inch or so. I would 
suspect yours has stuck (unplug, see if the fans stop) or the relay, or 
something stuck in the ac wiring

Martin

kjc wrote:

>Hmmm.. question about this otterstadt and the metal clip:
>can the metal clip ground out one of the connections on the otterstat and
>either cause the fans to run continuous or not all?
>Seems like it could, which could my issue, they run constantly and the
>engine never warms up enough when its not hot outside.
>-Jason Bourne-- er, Kevin
>
>  
>






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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2006 00:08:58 -0000
From: "trdstne71" <trdstne71_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Otterstat Popped Out While Driving

Thanks - it's a bottom switch.  Unfortunatly I don't have any kind 
of workshop and the car has an aftermarket BAE Turbo installed.  The 
turbo is right in the way making access to the otterstat somewhat 
difficult.  That plus the fact that I had never done this before, I 
ended up pulling the whole otterstat out instead of just the leads.  
Next time I'll know better...  As far as leaks, I recently had all 
the cooling system tubes replaced so it would be depressing if that 
were the cause. :(

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_o...> 
wrote:
>
> You probably did not snap the clip on right. Usually the clip is 
fine.
> If you want just use a nylon strap-tie around the pipe and between 
the
> wire clips on the otterstadt switch. Refill and bleed the system. I
> don't know that even in AZ you actually need a "low temp" 
otterstadt.
> Since the motor is supposed to run at least 190 I don't think it 
gets
> that hot even in AZ. You did not have to 




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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2006 00:09:56 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Otterstat Popped Out While Driving

Does your otterstat install on the top of the pipe by chance?  If 
it does, loosen the hose clamps and rotate the pipe so the 
otterstat fitting is on the bottom of the pipe.  This ensures that
there is always coolant on the otterstat element.  Also, a cable
tie is good insurance for the clip.

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "trdstne71" <trdstne71_at_dml_yahoo.com>: -------------- 


> Hello! 
> 
> New to the group... I've owned a Delorean for almost two years 
> now. Love every second of it, but naturally have started doing my 
> own repairs... :-) 
> 
> I've been having overheating issues and after researching on the 
> internet, I believe my otterstat is dead and the fans don't ever 
> come on. To test this theory, I popped the otterstat out and 
> jumpered the fan wires directly - the fans came on immediately - so 
> I know they're not bad. But I never hear them come on while I'm 
> driving or idling. 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2006 23:59:53 -0000
From: "trdstne71" <trdstne71_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Otterstat Popped Out While Driving

Heh - so few people recognize the reference... :-D

Anyway - I suppose it's possible.  But when I pulled my otterstat, 
it had a reasonably thick plastic/rubber shielding around the two 
pins that the electrical system connected to.  Maybe if it wore down 
or something...

Treadstone71

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_g...> wrote:
>
> Hmmm.. question about this otterstadt and the metal clip:
> can the metal clip ground out one of the connections on the 
otterstat and
> either cause the fans to run continuous or not all?
> Seems like it could, which could my issue, they run constantly and 
the
> engine never warms up enough when its not hot outside.
> -Jason Bourne-- er, Kevin









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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2006 00:09:52 -0000
From: "pjgrady2000" <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: Re: Otterstat Popped Out While Driving

Good advice Bernie as the metal clip combined with a black (Outdoor 
rated) tie wrap makes for virtualy no failures I am aware of. 
However I would like to point out that a low temp. otterstat in a 
warm climate causes the cooling fans to stay on most of the time 
after initial startup. This causes an increase in the operating 
temperature of the fan wiring circuit and in at least one instance 
I've seen caused, at least indirectly, an electrical fire which 
fortunately the owner put out without incident. We recommend 98 
degree centigrade otterstates that were originally used on the 
DeLorean. These have become hard to find as of late so I've been 
reluctantly using 97 degree units for the time being . IMHO any unit 
that engages below 97 degrees is potentially dangerous.

The other contibuting factor, I'm fairly sure of, was a fan-fail 
link wire that started to burn because of the increased heat from 
the fans continued operation. Any of these link wires or "Fan Fixs" 
that incorporate ATC fuseholders should be checked at least yearly 
for signs of overheating and replaced if any signs of heat damage 
exists. 

"Fanzilla" solved these issues but has been unavailable for a 
protracted amount of time. In the interum we've started using "The 
Little Grey Box", as named by it's inventor, with excellent results. 
Either one of these sequential fan controllers combined with a 97 or 
98 degree Otterstat would be a much safer way to go for your car in 
the Arizona heat. I just wish I could think of a catchier name 
for "The L.G.B." !

Rob Grady,

P.J.Grady Inc,




 --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_c...> wrote:
>
> You could use a nylon tie wrap to hold in in, in addition to the 
metal
> clip.  The tie wrap will not be affected by the heat of the cooling
> system, but could be from the heat of the exhaust system.  So if 
you
> use the tie wrap, check on it once in a while for deteriotation, 
and
> replace when necessary, cheap insurance against an overheated 
engine.
> 
> Bernie
> 
> VIN 4045 and 6704
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "trdstne71" <trdstne71_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> >
> > Hello!
> > 
> > New to the group...  I've owned a Delorean for almost two years 
> > now.  Love every second of it, but naturally have started doing 
my 
> > own repairs...  :-)
> > 
> > I've been having overheating issues and after researching on the 
> > internet, I believe my otterstat is dead and the fans don't ever 
> > come on.  To test this theory, I popped the otterstat out and 
> > jumpered the fan wires directly - the fans came on immediately - 
so 





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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2006 00:09:46 -0000
From: "Randal" <azman3us_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Otterstat Popped Out While Driving

Welcome - be very careful running the low temp otterstat here in AZ 
as your fans will run much too often and can lead to overheating the 
fan electrical system - thus burning up the wires and melting the 
fuse box. I ran the low temp myself for a very short time and 
switched back! Stick with the regular temp otterstat! But, make sure 
that radiator is the 3 core, the coolant reservoir has been changed 
to a metal one and your hoses are in good shape.  Also check to see 
if you have the original blue fan fail module (located in the relay 
panel behind the passenger seat) if so this needs to be changed out 
with fused jumpers at a minimum  most of us here run the coveted 
FanZilla!  Lastly check the thermostat as the car is 25 years old and 
we have seen a few fail.

We have many cars here in AZ and in Vegas that run cool even when 
it's 110!

Randal 5501 "The 3M Guy"
"Arizona DeLorean Club
www.az-d.org   

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "trdstne71" <trdstne71_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>
> Hello!
> 
> New to the group...  I've owned a Delorean for almost two years 
> now.  Love every second of it, but naturally have started doing my 
> own repairs...  :-)
> 
> I've been having overheating issues and after researching on the 
> internet, I believe my otterstat is dead and the fans don't ever 
> come on.  To test this theory, I popped the otterstat out and 
> jumpered the fan wires directly - the fans came on immediately - so 
> I know they're not bad.  But I never hear them come on while I'm 
> driving or idling.
> 
> Long story short, I put the bad otterstat back in (ordered a new 
low 
> temp one as I live in sunny AZ) and continued to drive the car.  
> Last night, my engine temp skyrocketed - fortunately only a couple 
> hundred yards from home.  Got back and found that sure enough - the 
> otterstat had popped out by itself - which leads me to believe I 
> didn't reconnect it very well.
> 
> Which finally brings me to my question...  Usually Fan Temperature 
> switches screw in...  this one just seems to sit there and be held 
> in with a small chinsy metal clip.  Doesn't seem very strong for a 
> high pressure/temperature system.  Is there some special way to 
> really make sure it's well and truly secured?  I am particularly 
> concerned because I should be receiving the new otterstat soon but 
> it won't do me much good if it just pops out at the next turn...
> 
> Thanks all,
> 
> Treadstone71
>









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Message: 17
Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2006 19:15:45 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Otterstat Popped Out While Driving

 
 
In a message dated 1/14/2006 5:55:50 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com writes:

Hmmm..  question about this otterstadt and the metal clip:
can the metal clip  ground out one of the connections on the otterstat and
either cause the  fans to run continuous or not all?
Seems like it could, which could my  issue, they run constantly and the
engine never warms up enough when its  not hot outside.
-Jason Bourne-- er, Kevin



>>>
Kevin,
 
I suppose it could, but I have never heard of that happening and the last  
time I checked mine I don't recall it being something that you need to be  
careful of.  Your otterstat is probably broken and should be replaced if it  never 
shuts off.
 
Andy
 
Fargo, ND  
1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2006 00:59:40 -0000
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Otterstat Popped Out While Driving

it may be some previous owner decided to short the wires to run 
continuous to save changing the switch!.

just pull the leads off and see if the fans stop and if there is a 
short either deliberate or accidental

or the switch is faulty, easy to change.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "trdstne71" <trdstne71_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>
> Heh - so few people recognize the reference... :-D
> 
> Anyway - I suppose it's possible.  But when I pulled my otterstat, 
> it had a reasonably thick plastic/rubber shielding around the two 
> pins that the electrical system connected to.  Maybe if it wore 
down 
> or something...
> 
> Treadstone71
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> >
> > Hmmm.. question about this otterstadt and the metal clip:
> > can the metal clip ground out one of the connections on the 
> otterstat and
> > either cause the fans to run continuous or not all?
> > Seems like it could, which could my issue, they run constantly 
and 
> the
> > engine never warms up enough when its not hot outside.
> > -Jason Bourne-- er, Kevin
>








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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2006 01:47:59 -0000
From: "Patrick C." <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Two Different Louvre Styles--Anyone else ever noticed this?

Last night while I was at Ken Koncelik's warehouse getting help
repairing my cracked center rib section in my louvres, I noticed how
another owner's car had a different style of louvres completely.  The
VIN was a 13xx series, and looking at the louvres from the back, the
center section was very thin.  On my louvres, and on all of the
louvres I have seen, the center section has about a 1 inch wide "t"
section branching out from the thin center section (for extra support
I suppose).  Does anyone know when they switched louvre styles?  It
must be a vin between 1300 and 1880, unless my louvres were replaced
with later style louvres at one point. 

I assume they changed to the beefier center section due to cracking on
the earlier louvres?

If I had pictures I would post them to explain better what I am trying
to say above, but hopefully it isn't too confusing.

-Patrick C.
Vin #1880








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Message: 20
Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2006 20:22:26 -0700
From: Johnny Sawyer <johnny.sawyer_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Two Different Louvre Styles--Anyone else ever noticed this?

I know exactly what you're talking about, Patrick.  The first time I noticed
that, was when James Espey pointed it out to me on another owner's DeLorean
(VIN 789).  I'm assuming it was changed to the 1" spine simply for the
support/cracking reasons, like you mentioned.

I suppose one would need to be a little more gentile opening and closing
them.

I've only seen that oddity louvre on earlier cars, but I don't know what the
cut-off VIN would be.

Johnny
5518
AZ-D


On 1/14/06, Patrick C. <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com> wrote:
>
> Last night while I was at Ken Koncelik's warehouse getting help
> repairing my cracked center rib section in my louvres, I noticed how
> another owner's car had a different style of louvres completely.  The
> VIN was a 13xx series, and looking at the louvres from the back, the
> center section was very thin.  On my louvres, and on all of the
> louvres I have seen, the center section has about a 1 inch wide "t"
> section branching out from the thin center section (for extra support
> I suppose).  Does anyone know when they switched louvre styles?  It
> must be a vin between 1300 and 1880, unless my louvres were replaced
> with later style louvres at one point.
>
> I assume they changed to the beefier center section due to cracking on
> the earlier louvres?
>
> If I had pictures I would post them to explain better what I am trying
> to say above, but hopefully it isn't too confusing.
>
> -Patrick C.
> Vin #1880
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 21
Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2006 03:55:01 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Crap in fuel pump + normal pump sound?

The filter is supposed to catch "all that stuff". And since the fuel
system is a recirculating system then theoretically all of the dirt in
the tank will eventually be caught by the filter. There are also very
fine screens inside the fuel injectors to catch anything that either
gets past the filter or somehow gets into the system after the filter.
Nothing ever works 100%. The filter screen in the tank is supposed to
keep the "big stuff" from getting caught in the fuel pump. The fuel
tank is a good indicator of the insides of your fuel system. If it is
dirty inside then you can assume that the rest of the fuel system is
also contaminated. I have seen where a running car (not a Delorean)
dies because the owner put some fuel system cleaner in. While it did
clean the system, all the crud that came loose plugged everything up.
The first step in cleaning a contaminated system is to clean the tank.
Much of the dirt and water will settle in the fuel tank. Fresh fuel
has cleaners in it and will slowly clean up a running system.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "valleyrat12" <valleyrat12_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>
> The fuel filter would catch all that stuff right? So, everthing past 
> the filter should be good? The car would drive fairly well 
> 







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Message: 22
Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2006 19:58:01 -0800 (PST)
From: mike clemens <rmclemns_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: COLORIZED DELOREAN WIRING DIAGRAM

Group,

Many of you probably saw the Colorized wiring diagram
listed on Ebay (item # 8028505549) that just recently
ended with a high bid of $32.99.  I was the originator
and seller of this item and I was trying to determine
a fair price to ask for it, as I had several to sell.

I have already contacted the winning bidder and told
him I would not be charging him his full bid.  What I
am going to do is offer it to anyone on the group for
$25.00 plus $6.00 shipping and ($1.30 for insurance,
if you want it).

I'm just a regular Delorean enthusiast, just like all
of you, and I am trying to fill a small need to our
community, an easy to read wiring diagram.  Old farts
like me who have been reading and working with wiring
schematics for 40+ years need all the help we can get.

For any and all that are interested, please contact me
off line.  I appreciate the moderators allowing this
through as it is basically a shameless advertising
plug, but one I think most of the community would like
to have in their workshop.

Mike    TPS      1630

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 




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Message: 23
Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2006 04:05:59 -0000
From: "valleyrat12" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Two Different Louvre Styles--Anyone else ever noticed this?

2277 with "early" louvre.

nathan
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Johnny Sawyer <johnny.sawyer_at_dml_g...> 
wrote:
>
>  Does anyone know when they switched louvre styles?  
It
> > must be a vin between 1300 and 1880, unless my louvres were 
replaced
> > with later style louvres at one point.




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Message: 24
Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2006 04:20:30 -0000
From: "valleyrat12" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Alternator Sound

Gee I'm posting here a lot...

OK, I noticed while my car is idling right after it is started that 
my battery voltage is low, below the 14 or so volts it should read 
when running. If I rev the engine the meter will suddenly bounce up 
to where it should be and continue even when the engine runs back 
down to idle, indicating that the alternator is working. Also, a 
whirring sound can be heard from the alternator AFTER the gauge 
indicates that it is working. I have cleaned all of the contacts and 
the condition persists. 

I have noticed this on other cars and assume that the sound is 
normal, but I assume that my alternator is dieing. What would cause 
the alternator to work only after the engine is revved up to 3000 
rpm? Also, there are some wires (2) that are hanging down by the 
alternator that are not hooked up, Black/Green I think.



Nathan
2277









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Message: 25
Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2006 22:42:19 -0600
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Otterstat Popped Out While Driving

On 1/14/06, Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk> wrote:
>
> The rad fan switch works on a positive supply, fed off fuse #5 from
> memory. The legs are insulated for the first quarter inch or so. I would
> suspect yours has stuck (unplug, see if the fans stop) or the relay, or
> something stuck in the ac wiring
>
> Martin
>
The plastic around the wire is gone, it's just bare spade connectors if I
remember right. I did put some heat shrink tubing on the one I found was hot
by chance.
It did this first in june, I put a otterstat in and then it started doing it
again just a few months later. If I unplug, it does indeed stop the fans.

So, check to see if the radiator-fan relay is getting stuck?
Or what would I check in the AC wiring?


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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