From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 1:48 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3080

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Otterstat Popped Out While Driving
From: "Mike Bosworth" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>

2. Re: Temp gauge flipped over
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

3. Fuel Accumulator Replacement - Stuck
From: "Steve" <p2freak_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. Hot Start Solution
From: "Scot Stern" <Scotstern_at_dml_aol.com>

5. Powdercoated DMC frames experience anyone?
From: "John Dore" <dmcjohn_at_dml_hotmail.com>

6. Re: Fuel Accumulator Replacement - Stuck
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

7. Re: Powdercoated DMC frames experience anyone?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

8. Crankshaft Pulley
From: "edherrmann" <edherrmann_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Clutch chatter update
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

10. Re: Fuel Accumulator Replacement - Stuck
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

11. Re: Powdercoated DMC frames experience anyone?
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

12. Re: Powdercoated DMC frames experience anyone?
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

13. Re: Fuel Accumulator Replacement - Stuck
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

14. Re: Re: Delorean tires
From: Cliff Schmucker <cliff_at_dml_deloreanproject.com>

15. What do you know about VIN 16723? (Minnesota car from 91 - 2005, Doug Bright)
From: "mrvic20" <faycraig.newton_at_dml_virgin.net>

16. Driving the dream
From: "willinot" <willinot_at_dml_ukonline.co.uk>

17. RE: Re: Delorean tires
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>

18. Re: Crankshaft Pulley
From: "Mike Bosworth" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>

19. Re: Crankshaft Pulley
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

20. Re: Newsday Article
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>

21. Re: Crankshaft Pulley
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>

22. Re: Delorean tires
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

23. Re: Crankshaft Pulley
From: "spaceboy_2912" <seanmm_at_dml_alltel.net>

24. Re: Crankshaft Pulley
From: dmc82_at_dml_comcast.net

25. Re: Newsday Article
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2006 10:17:00 -0000
From: "Mike Bosworth" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Otterstat Popped Out While Driving

Hi

Probably stating the obvious here, but if your otterstat has popped out you have lost a lot of coolant, cant see that this is mentioned anywhere? 

Kind Regards

Mike
#2001

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "trdstne71" <trdstne71_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>
> Hello!
> 
> New to the group...  I've owned a Delorean for almost two years now.  
> Love every second of it, but naturally have started doing my own 
> repairs...  :-)
> 
> I've been having overheating issues and after researching on the 
> internet, I believe my otterstat is dead and the fans don't ever come 
> on.  To test this theory, I popped the otterstat out and jumpered the 
> fan wires directly - the fans came on immediately - so I know they're 
> not bad.  But I never hear them come on while I'm driving or idling.
> 
[moderator snip]




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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2006 22:22:14 -0800
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Temp gauge flipped over

Hi Matt,

Mine did this once, too. If I recall correctly, I was working on some wiring and accidentally touched something I shouldn't have while it was hot. The gauge reversed itself and, I might add, seemed to work just fine other than pointing the wrong direction. The list here pointed me to the "push it back with a paperclip through the odo reset hole" and it's worked fine ever since.

-Ryan

On 1/15/06, dmcchaser <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com> wrote:
> My D did a strange thing last night, I started it up and the temp 
> needle flipped over so it was pointing to about the 5:00 position.  I 
> was able to re-flip it by fashioning a tool from a bobby pin and 
> inserting it carefully through the odo reset hole.  Now it seems to be 
> working Ok.
> Is it normal for the gauge to flip?  What might be causing this?  Is 
> my car possed by the spirit of an AMC Pacer?


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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2006 07:19:44 -0000
From: "Steve" <p2freak_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Fuel Accumulator Replacement - Stuck

Group,

An attempt to replace the fuel accumulator over the 3 day weekend kind of failed.  Here are my findings.  Perhaps someone will find the information useful in the future.

1.  Looking at the Section 2, Subsection 1, group 0 parts diagram, the fuel accumulator has the 2 metal fittings pointing forward toward the fuel tank.  But on VIN 04421, it is pointing backwards toward the engine.  Which way does yours point?

2.  I've been able to disconnect part #41, the 90 degree elbow, part 36, the flexible fuel pipe, and drop the whole accumulator down through the hole in chasis.  However, I am having trouble with part #38, SPL Fir Tree Insert and part 4, Hose-Fuel Return and Feed: I can't disconnect them.  Generous amount of PB Blaster oil and long handled wrench didn't move the connector an inch where it is connected to the accumulator.  It's like the fuel accumulator and the metal fitting are welded together.  Banging the metal connector didn't help.  Is it possible someone put lock tight on the fitting?  Any suggestions?
 
3.  In the struggle against seemingly welded together fittings, I damaged the Fuel Return & Feed Hose #4.  The hose (part 4) and the fitting (part 38) are coming apart.  It's leaking fuel.  The rubber covering on the hose (part 4) is flaking off and exposing white braided material.  The part 4 and part 38 are press fitted together.  Perhaps it is time to replace the hose?  How do you repair the connection?

4.  From the flexible fuel pipe (part 36), I collected at least 5 gallons of fuel.  According to previous postings, I shouldn't be getting much fuel since the fuel pump is not running.  
The car sat for at least 15 hours before work started.  Is my fuel system messed up?

Thank you for your help.


Steve
VIN#04421









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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2006 04:23:38 -0000
From: "Scot Stern" <Scotstern_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Hot Start Solution

Several weeks ago, many of you were kind enough to offer some really excellent suggestions concerning my ongoing hot start problem.  I had originally had the work done at Garden Grove DMC and they had changed the check valve, the fuel lines, the accumulator (twice) the injectors and the fuel distributor but I still had the problem.  

After over $3,000 and much frustration I took it back to Garden Grove and explained the situation and showed them that the car had less than 1,000 miles on it since they had done the work. Remember, that I live in San Diego and much of the 1,000 miles had be accumulated driving back and fourth to their shop.

Anyway, they worked on the car and found the problem.  Apparently, they had used my original pressure relief valve in the new fuel distributor and the $.30 "O ring" was bad which let the pressure bleed down.

They fixed for me and were quite nice about the situation.  I also had the TAB's changed as several years ago I had purchased a set of "Toby Tabs" and never had them changed because there was no place in San Diego to have it done.  While my car only has 12,200 miles on it I was worried about the Tabs breaking or bending as a result of all of the horror stories in the postings.

I saw the old ones that came out of my car and they looked like brand new so, apparently, I was not one who had the problem.  At least now I will not have to worry about them in the future and this is a comfort to me.

I also was relieved to learn that my "loose" spark plug problem was simply what it appeared to be.  No one had tightened the plug when they changed them several years before.  I suspect that the phone rang, or they were distracted, and just never tightened it.  In any case, it was a relief as I had tried to tighten it and I thought that it was striped because it did not seem to tighten like it should have.

I also learned that that top of the distributor and the coil had a small piece broken off (both in the same spot on the coil wire) so they changed those plus added new plug & coil wires.  This seemed to correct my problem with "lugging" at about 2,500 RPM.  The car now runs fine at all RPM ranges.

All in all, a positive experience and I thank all of you that suggested that I return to the vendor.  They do have the expertise to do the job.  I now have another $1,250 invested, but I do hopefully have a dependable car that will start if I take it out to drive it.

Thanks to all of you for your help and I thought it might be worthwhile to report the solution so that those that helped will have more information for their future recommendations.  The most important aspect being that the vendors have so much experience that they are the best source for problems to be corrected.

John Harvey seems to have the solution to the hot start problem with his two kits as when you are all through it is usually going to be one of those two things that go wrong.  As I have said before, he is a wonderful asset that Delorean owners should cherish.

Rob Grady gives excellent advice as he recommends things that could be wrong and further suggests talking about it with the vendor that did the work.  He too is a wonderful resource and I only wish that we were not 3,000 miles apart.

Both Danny and Don certainly know the Delorean and, with patience and perseverance, a Delorean owner can also find a solution to their problems at this vendor.

Thanks again,

Scot Stern
6452








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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2006 13:55:51 -0000
From: "John Dore" <dmcjohn_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Powdercoated DMC frames experience anyone?

Hi guys,

I'm looking for anyone who has experience with a powdercoated frame in a DeLorean (or even a partly powdercoated frame, such as a frame with a new powdercoated front frame extension welded on).

I've never heard any real life example of how durable powdercoating is on our frames.. Well, I've been told its great, but have no idea how long it is expected to last.

When the vendors sell refurbished cars, they have freshly powdercoated frames, but what I'm wondering is how soon afterwards do the frames start to show signs of rust again? Does the powdercoated surface become chipped from stones etc easily? Has anyone added a clearcoat over the powdercoating to give it extra protection/strength?

There was a guy called Nick on the list a few years ago, who did a frame off restoration on his car, and powdercoated his frame. If you're still here Nick, how does the frame look now after a few years of use?

Anyone who had their frame extension replaced a few years ago - how is the powdercoating holding up in this area today?

Thanks a million to anyone with any information!

Regards,
John







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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2006 15:52:48 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Accumulator Replacement - Stuck

#1 Usually towards the rear
#2 Get a bigger wrench
#3 Replace the hose
#4 Remove the rest of the fuel from the tank and wipe it out. After all of this work use up a tank of fuel and then replace the fuel filter David Teitelbaum vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <p2freak_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>
> Group,
> 
> An attempt to replace the fuel accumulator over the 3 day weekend
kind of failed.  Here 
> are my findings.  Perhaps someone will find the information useful
in the future.
> 
>







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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2006 15:48:58 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Powdercoated DMC frames experience anyone?

Powder-coating is an excellant way to paint and protect a frame. The problem in doing it on a Delorean is the removal of the epoxy.
Removing the epoxy is a big deal as it does not come off easily.
Another problem (not unique to Deloreans) is there are some box sections that would have to be cut open to gain access to the interior. Of course any rusted out sections would have to be repaired before powdercoating. Powdercoating is very durable and not susceptable to chips but it must be applied to a VERY clean and properly prepared surface, usually a blasted surface. A lot depends on the shop that does the work. They have to have an oven large enough to put the frame in. Typically there is no clearcoat for powder, it doesn't need it and it won't stick anyway. Usually a failure of a powdercoated part occurs because the surface was not treated properly and it rusted UNDER the powder. The biggest drawback to doing a frame is that you have to completely disassemble the car. Don't forget to do the rear trailing arms. You wil also find, in doing a frame, a million other little things to do and/or replace. It can get expensive, and not just the powdercoating. An alternative to powder is to remove the loose epoxy, sand, and repaint. If the car is not driven in bad weather it will last a long time.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Dore" <dmcjohn_at_dml_h...> wrote:
>
> Hi guys,
> 
> I'm looking for anyone who has experience with a powdercoated frame in 
> a DeLorean (or even a partly powdercoated frame, such as a frame with 
> a new powdercoated front frame extension welded on).
> 
> I've never heard any real life example of how durable powdercoating is 
> on our frames.. Well, I've been told its great, but have no idea how 
> long it is expected to last.
> 
> When the vendors sell refurbished cars, they have freshly powdercoated 
> frames, but what I'm wondering is how soon afterwards do the frames 
> start to show signs of rust again? Does the powdercoated
>








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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2006 17:33:33 -0000
From: "edherrmann" <edherrmann_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Crankshaft Pulley

Has anyone removed a crankshaft pully. I have the muffler out for more 
clearance but how do I jam the flywheel so it will not turn. I read 
there is a Volvo tool (5112) But I can't locate one. Do I have to 
remove the starter or is their another way to stop the flywheel from 
rotating. My car is an automatic. Thanks  ED







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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2006 17:27:33 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Clutch chatter update

I thought I'd share this to those who have clutch chatter problems 
that are unexplained. I finally had a chance to take the transmission 
out yesterday and I found that among all the things that could have 
caused the chatter- it was the pilot bearing. When I installed the new 
clutch this summer I also installed a new pilot bearing. The bearing 
is not damaged, but grease had been leaking through the seal on the 
bearing and with the centrifugal force had been slowly running down 
the flywheel and eventually onto the surface causing chatter. This 
could have been the situation for those who had nothing leaking and 
couldn't figure out why the clutch was slipping. -----dani b. #5003








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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2006 18:34:29 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Fuel Accumulator Replacement - Stuck

This is not going to help too much but one of the things I personally 
had made when starting up in the DeLorean business was getting all the 
hoses made with new ends and in a modern flexible high pressure rubber 
fuel hose - mainly for the fuel pump and for the accumulator. I believe 
the vendors stateside still sell everythig as seperate parts. When I get 
an accumulator like yours that refuses to budge, I just cut off the hose 
and replace it. This was inspired by my project car that needed both the 
accumulator and the fuel filter cutting off and new fittings installed 
because they just would not move - to the point where I was going to 
damage either the car or myself by trying harder!

To remove the hose from the hard line up inside the chassis, you'll need 
a 17mm crowsfoot and a friend with a 14mm spanner to hold onto the top 
of the line which you can access through the hole in the underbody under 
the centre console between the ashtray and change tray. You can do it 
without removing the console.

As to the fuel leak - it sounds like it's just syphoning off. Simple 
physics :-) The return hose (the little barb on the bottom of the 
accumulator is just held on with hose clips because it's low pressure. 
The flexible high pressure line and the solid line are all part of the 
high pressure side.

Martin
www.delorean.co.uk

Steve wrote:

>4.  From the flexible fuel pipe (part 36), I collected at least 5 gallons of fuel.  According to 
>previous postings, I shouldn't be getting much fuel since the fuel pump is not running.  
>The car sat for at least 15 hours before work started.  Is my fuel system messed up?
>  
>







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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2006 18:37:49 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Powdercoated DMC frames experience anyone?

Powdercoating is basically a plastic finish that's sprayed on as a 
powder, then melted in an oven. This gives a uniform, hard, bonded 
layer. Is it better than the original epoxy? Almost certainly, given the 
uniform nature of it.

Personally, I'd investigate Nylon Plastic-coating. Applied in the same 
way, but the material is about three times the price, but the finish is 
really really wierd. It feels almost soft to the touch and nothing will 
stick to it - it's what springs are usually done in because it's also 
flexible.

Martin

John Dore wrote:

>Thanks a million to anyone with any information!
>
>Regards,
>John
>  
>






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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2006 10:07:03 -0600
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Powdercoated DMC frames experience anyone?

All the refurbished Deloreans that DMCH sells have Powder-coated 
frames. Maybe they have some owners names that are willing to answer 
questions about the quality?

Mark V


On Jan 16, 2006, at 7:55 AM, John Dore wrote:

> Hi guys,
>
> I'm looking for anyone who has experience with a powdercoated frame
> in a DeLorean (or even a partly powdercoated frame, such as a frame
> with a new powdercoated front frame extension welded on).
>
[moderator snip]





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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2006 18:39:46 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Fuel Accumulator Replacement - Stuck

BTW, in my last post, it just dawned on me that my own car that caused 
me a lot of trouble in this area was in fact #4426 - not that I think 
this is anything other than coincidence :-)

Martin
#1458
#4426

Steve wrote:

>Steve
>VIN#04421
>
>  
>







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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2006 15:59:08 -0500
From: Cliff Schmucker <cliff_at_dml_deloreanproject.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Delorean tires

well, it seems that the 235/60/15 situation has changed more than I
realized - so far have not been able to find anything other than RWL
(Raised White Letter) versions...

however, Black Side Wall is what is generally available for the
195/60/14

doing a quick search on various manufacturer's web sites, here is what
I have found so far that seems to be currently manufactured:


MFG / model
	size		service	sidewall

BFGoodrich Radial T/A
	P195/60R14	85 S	RWL 
	P235/60R15	98 S	RWL

Cooper Radial G/T
	P195/60R14	85 T	BLK
	P235/60R15	98 T	RWL

Firestone Firehawk INDY 500
	P195/60R14	85 T	BW
	P235/60R15	98 S	RWL

Dunlap G/T Qualifier
	P195/60R14	85 T	BSW
	P235/60R15	98 T	RWL

Dayton Daytona SR w/ UNI-T
	P195/60R14	85 T	BW
	P235/60R15	98 S	RWL


there might be some black 235's still out there in distribution (grab
them while you can!), but it looks like whatever vehicle is currently
using them likes the raised white letters :-(

putting the white letters facing in on the rear, or using the BFG with
white out on all 4 seems to be the current choices

if anyone knows of other mfg. brands/models that are still being made,
please let me know, or add to this list

TNX, Cliff

3441, 3307, 6147, 4523


>Tue, 27 Dec 2005 09:57:10 -0000, Joe wrote:

>Despite what some people think, I have BFGoodrich Radial TA non white
>letter tires on 2 of my cars. You can get them in the correct sizes,
>and the have a wonderful ride. What more do you need?
>
>
>-Joe O'Brien
>
>2524,
>16634,
>16851
>
>






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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2006 21:57:48 -0000
From: "mrvic20" <faycraig.newton_at_dml_virgin.net>
Subject: What do you know about VIN 16723? (Minnesota car from 91 - 2005, Doug Bright)

Hi everyone!

I imported my car to the uk in april 2005...i got very little 
history with the car so i have been doing some research on VIN 16723 
and was wondering if anyone knows of the whereabouts of DOUG 
BRIGHT.  According to receipts i received when i bought the car he 
owned the car between 7/17/91 and 4/19/98!  I have 2 address for 
Doug in minnesota and wrote to both but with no reply, however it is 
highly likely that he no longer lives there as the last receipt was 
98! 

According to the reciepts the car was WHITE in 1991 - i know that 
the next owner Dennis Christensen restored it to stainless in 2000 
but he said he bought it from a consignment shop! (Whats that?)

I would love to contact Doug to find out more about the history of 
my car!  Can you help? Do you know anything about VIN 16723? (Black 
interior auto which was definately white between 91 and 2000 and 
spent the majority of its life in minnesota!)

Any help on my detective trail would be greatly appreciated (however 
small)

many Thanks

Craig Churchill (Devon , UK)
DOC 388 Vin 16723









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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2006 23:58:41 -0000
From: "willinot" <willinot_at_dml_ukonline.co.uk>
Subject: Driving the dream

Hello all.

I have been a member of the DMC News for a few years now but only as 
an observor.  At long last though that all changed on Saturday 
afternoon when I managed to purchase Vin 02493.

Its is a July 81 model with black interior and 5 speed box.  

By Monday I had driven around 400 miles back home to Ireland with no 
problems at all, and a really great time driving my dream car.

There are a few bits and pieces needing done to it but nothing that 
will stop me driving and enjoying her and more importantly going along 
to EUROFEST 2006

I would be really intrested in any history on this car as I would like 
to try and build up a more detailed profile on her to go with the 
paperwork I have already.  The earliest registration I have for the 
car is to Kansas City (think this was the first registration of tyhe 
vehicle).  The car then went to Belguim (approx 1990) before going to 
UK in 1999.

Thanks again,

Paul
vin - at long last - 02493









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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2006 14:58:53 -0800
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Delorean tires

I have Goodrich TA with the RWL side mounted in and the Blackwall facing
out on rears.  Note that the front tires I got (TA Traction) are black
on both sides, which is good as they have a rotation orientation and
could not be flipped.

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of Cliff Schmucker
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 12:59 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Delorean tires

well, it seems that the 235/60/15 situation has changed more than I
realized - so far have not been able to find anything other than RWL
(Raised White Letter) versions...

[moderator snip]





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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2006 22:49:05 -0000
From: "Mike Bosworth" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Crankshaft Pulley

Hi

Here is a message posted on the DOCUK a while ago im sure it may be 
some help

KInd Regards

Mike
#2001

Here is the info. on the Flywheel		
holding tool. Check out www.Lasertools.co.uk. Part No.3203.	
	
Put a bolt through the slot into the lower mounting hole for	
	
the starter motor and put a nut on the other side, adjust the teeth
		
so they mesh with the flywheel. The engine is then locked. and the
		
pulley nut should be a lot easier to get off.		
Cost about 7. If needed to get off a stubborn nut use a Propane 
torch I( used burns MAPP gas. This burns extra hot and was better 
than my little propane blowlamp.)

		


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "edherrmann" <edherrmann_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>
> Has anyone removed a crankshaft pully. I have the muffler out for 
more 
> clearance but how do I jam the flywheel so it will not turn. I 
read 
> there is a Volvo tool (5112) But I can't locate one. Do I have to 
> remove the starter or is their another way to stop the flywheel 
from 
> rotating. My car is an automatic. Thanks  ED
>








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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 00:35:52 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Crankshaft Pulley

The simplest option that covers a lot of bases is to go and buy a 
compressor and decent impact wrench. It's not unknown to tear an engine 
mount with a locked flywheel and a long breaker.

Martin

edherrmann wrote:

>Has anyone removed a crankshaft pully. I have the muffler out for more 
>clearance but how do I jam the flywheel so it will not turn. I read 
>there is a Volvo tool (5112) But I can't locate one. Do I have to 
>remove the starter or is their another way to stop the flywheel from 
>rotating. My car is an automatic. Thanks  ED
>  
>






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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 01:07:17 -0000
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Newsday Article

Patrick,

OK not a really bad engine choice, just under powered.  The engine is
reliable, just as any engine is when well maintained, and engineered.

I have owned cars that have run up well over 200,000 miles on them,
then the cost of fixing other problems wasn't worth keeping the car
anymore.  I do believe the highest milage car I had was traded in at
278,000 miles, it still ran great, but I couldn't justify dumping
another $1000 into a brake job, on a car with a book value of less
than $200.  BTW it was my first Camry, I have owned 3 of them, I still
have a '99 with only 13K miles on it, still runs great.  And it's not
for sale.

My first car was acutally a Holden (HG I think), in Australia, very
reliable but leaked like a sieve when it rained.  But the straight 6
was so powerful, and so easy to work on.  Was it an exotic like a
DeLorean, no I couldn't afford anything like an exotic back in 1978.

Bernie

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Patrick Conlon <PRC1216_at_dml_a...> wrote:
>
> Bernie,
>     I disagree with the comment "a really bad engine choice (I think
we  
> can all agree on this)".  I think the PRV is a good little engine,  
> just not the fastest or most powerful engine choice that could have  
> been made.  I've helped work on a fellow owner's DeLorean that had  
> 300,000 miles on the original engine, never rebuilt.  Now compare  
> that with a comparable Lotus engine from the 80's, and you'll find  
> that 40,000 or 50,000 miles can be a lifetime for those engines.
>     Also remember that we were just coming out of an energy crisis
when  
> the engine choice was made.  Getting 21-29 mpg is pretty good for a  
> 25 year old car today.
> 
> Whenever people give me a hard time at a car show about a 'puny'  
> engine, I remind them that the '81 Corvette only made 180 HP.
> 
> -Patrick C.
> Vin #1880
[moderator snip]




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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2006 23:08:51 -0000
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>
Subject: Re: Crankshaft Pulley

I removed my crankshaft pully not too long ago in order to sleeve the 
shaft and replace the seal to eliminate a pesky weep that had 
developed in the area (I cann't stand to have any drips on my 
concrete).

I used a large impact gun to remove the nut and I don't think I had to 
do any blocking of any kind to get the nut off with the gun. Using a 
breaker bar you would obviously have to do some sort of blocking, but 
instead of going to the trouble of removing the starter and installing 
some specialty blocking tool, you might instead just buy a good impact 
gun (which you'll find helpful for all kinds of stubborn jobs).

My cars are manual transmission, but since the car was on a lift I 
can't imagine it made any real difference. Removing the muffer is 
indeed necessary in order to get sufficient clearance for your impact 
gun.

   Knut


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "edherrmann" <edherrmann_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>
> Has anyone removed a crankshaft pully. I have the muffler out for 
more 
> clearance but how do I jam the flywheel so it will not turn. I read 
> there is a Volvo tool (5112) But I can't locate one. Do I have to 
> remove the starter or is their another way to stop the flywheel from 
> rotating. My car is an automatic. Thanks  ED
>









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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 01:21:24 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Delorean tires

Just turn the RWL to the inside. After a while the white will 
virtually disappear.

I like Cooper tires - I have them on a daily driver not a D, any 
feedback on them for the D? The Goodrich T/A's I have had on a D in 
the past and they seemed to get very noisy after about 10,000 miles.


Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Cliff Schmucker <cliff_at_dml_d...> wrote:
>
> well, it seems that the 235/60/15 situation has changed more than I
> realized - so far have not been able to find anything other than 
RWL
> (Raised White Letter) versions...
> 
[moderator snip]




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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 01:19:02 -0000
From: "spaceboy_2912" <seanmm_at_dml_alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Crankshaft Pulley

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "edherrmann" <edherrmann_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>
> Has anyone removed a crankshaft pully. I have the muffler out for 
more 
> clearance but how do I jam the flywheel so it will not turn. I read 
> there is a Volvo tool (5112) But I can't locate one. Do I have to 
> remove the starter or is their another way to stop the flywheel from 
> rotating. My car is an automatic. Thanks  ED
>
You should not need to jam the flywheel if you use an impact wrench on 
the nut. I have taken the pulley off a few times without ever needing 
a jam but I did use an impact wrench. FWIW make sure you have the 
woodruff key in the 12'oclock position when you remove the pulley, you 
don't want that dropping into the oil pan.







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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 02:57:15 +0000
From: dmc82_at_dml_comcast.net
Subject: Re: Crankshaft Pulley

Mine is a manual but that should not make a big difference. What I can tell you is that I needed a 1/2" drive impact wrench to get mine off and I had my engine out of the car with a 4 foot cheater bar on it and it wouldn't budge. It took about 5 minutes of the impact wrench but it finally came off.

Cecil Longwisch
#10663


-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "edherrmann" <edherrmann_at_dml_yahoo.com> 

> Has anyone removed a crankshaft pully. I have the muffler out for more 
> clearance but how do I jam the flywheel so it will not turn. I read 
> there is a Volvo tool (5112) But I can't locate one. Do I have to 
> remove the starter or is their another way to stop the flywheel from 
> rotating. My car is an automatic. Thanks ED 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: 
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com 
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com 
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 01:43:56 -0000
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Newsday Article

Oh, so true, so true, it is a fantastic car, the only other one like
would be the Gullwing Mercedes, but who can afford that, if you can
you probably don't own a DeLorean.  Like I said, if the company had
lasted a couple of more years, who knows what might have been.

Can't wait for DCS 2006, the DeLorean and Corvette show at the same
time.  I bet some trades take place, should be very interesting.

Bernie

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
>
> hey hold on the car is not just a great car, it is a FANTASTIC car.
> 
> yes it needs maintenance, but so do all.
> 
> and the engine choice, i know the power would be good but would you 
> really want a ferrari or lotus engine which would cost a fortune to 
> maintain and rebuild.
> i looked at lotus esprits (1980's) but gather you are talking plus 
> 5000 uk money just for an engine rebuild.
> i'd rather stick to the prv and go to the local shop to buy the 
> air/oil/fuel filter etc.
> and JZD was just of course developing the twin turbo so had the 
> factory continued, who knows what we would of had.
> 
> if you drive down the road in a ferarri or a Delorean, which will 
> the most people look at? got to be Delorean every time.
> 
> Regards
> 
> steve
> owner, UK
[moderator snip]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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