From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 3:37 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3081

There are 9 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Crankshaft Pulley
From: "natesky1980" <ncskalsk_at_dml_mtu.edu>

2. Re: Re: Powdercoated DMC frames experience anyone?
From: Chris Murley <qumefox_at_dml_gmail.com>

3. Re: Newsday Article
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>

4. RE: Powdercoated DMC frames experience anyone?
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>

5. RE: Hot Start Solution
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

6. Re: What do you know about VIN 16723? (Minnesota car from 91
From: Chris Murley <qumefox_at_dml_gmail.com>

7. Re: Powdercoated DMC frames experience anyone?
From: "dmc01081" <rgoodwin2001_at_dml_hotmail.com>

8. RE: Fuel Accumulator Replacement - Stuck
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

9. Re: Fuel Accumulator Replacement - Stuck
From: "Steve" <p2freak_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 03:03:27 -0000
From: "natesky1980" <ncskalsk_at_dml_mtu.edu>
Subject: Re: Crankshaft Pulley

A proper torque-rated (>150ft. lbs) impact wrench will remove the pulley without the need to lock the flywheel.  I've done it this way a couple times with no complaints.

Other than using a impact wrench or locking the flywheel, the only method left (that I can think of) is blocking the wheels and putting the transmission in drive (or reverse), that should allow you to remove the nut with a breaker bar.  I wouldn't recommend this method (even though I have in the past, on a manual).  Keep in mind that in drive the car will attempt to roll backwards as you apply counter- clockwise force to the crank and vice-versa in reverse.

I've heard, and it makes sense to me, that you shouldn't apply lock- tite when you put the nut back on (although the manual recommends it).



-Nate
11501

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "edherrmann" <edherrmann_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>
> Has anyone removed a crankshaft pully. I have the muffler out for
more 
> clearance but how do I jam the flywheel so it will not turn. I read 
> there is a Volvo tool (5112) But I can't locate one. Do I have to 
> remove the starter or is their another way to stop the flywheel
from 
> rotating. My car is an automatic. Thanks  ED
>








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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2006 22:04:31 -0600
From: Chris Murley <qumefox_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Powdercoated DMC frames experience anyone?

David Teitelbaum wrote:
> An alternative to powder is to remove the loose epoxy, sand, and 
> repaint. If the car is not driven in bad weather it will last a long 
> time.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
Actually this is the route i'm going with mine, instead of powder coating. My decision on this was mostly based on time and finances, plus the fact I couldn't find anyone locally who could bake the entire frame.
So I decided to just remove the sections of epoxy that showed signs of rust beneath, sandblast those sections and treat for rust, then re epoxy then sand smooth and paint the entire frame. Unfortunately I've been trying to finish this particular job for over two months, but life has been against giving me much free time to work on the car..

--
Chris
VIN# 3209
http://badger.brazi.net/index.pl/delorean






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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 01:24:51 -0000
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Newsday Article

Steve,

Thanks for the rocking tip it worked, I rocked the car in second gear and bingo it started up this morning no problems, guess I need a new starter.  And what was really wierd it wasn't hunting for a steady idle either (like it mormally does), just nice and smooth.  I need to get into it and figure out just what the problem is.  I have been reading and re-reading the manuals on the Lamda system and idle control system all day today.

Does anyone know where I can get a diagnotic plug and harness?  6704 is missing it, I looked everywhere and it's not there.  I want to hook up the dwell meter but guess what, no where to hook it up to.

Thanks,

Bernie

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
>
> hi
> just check the power going to the starter leads, are these OK.
> if yes the starter may have burnt out/jammed as even a weker power you 
> should hear something.
> 
> do you hear any relay clicks?
> 
> if a manual box, put in second gear and rock the car (or push start) 
> if the starter gear has jammed, i use to have a ford escort do this 
> till i changed the starter.
> 
> Should be easy to diagnose.
> Regards
> 
> Steve
> 
[moderator snip]




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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2006 20:10:53 -0600
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>
Subject: RE: Powdercoated DMC frames experience anyone?

John,

I powdercoated my frame and I am delighted.

I had the bad metal removed and replaced.

I used a belt and suspenders approach to rustproofing and finish.
1) I zinc chromated the frame
2) I used a zinc rich powdercoat primer
3) I put the finish color on

The training arms were galvanized due to the harsher environment.

The finish is great and durable.  I don't drive it a lot so I can't reply relative to its long lasting performance.

Nick

--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.371 / Virus Database: 267.14.18/230 - Release Date: 1/14/2006





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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2006 23:21:19 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Hot Start Solution

Scot, Did you notice that I give what I call the hot start 2 O Ring kit away with the new accumulator.$99.95.
John Hervey
Specialtauto.com





-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Scot Stern
Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2006 10:24 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Hot Start Solution

Several weeks ago, many of you were kind enough to offer some really excellent suggestions concerning my ongoing hot start problem.  I had originally had the work done at Garden Grove DMC and they had changed the check valve, the fuel lines, the accumulator (twice) the injectors and the fuel distributor but I still had the problem.  

[moderator snip]




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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2006 22:18:13 -0600
From: Chris Murley <qumefox_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: What do you know about VIN 16723? (Minnesota car from 91

mrvic20 wrote:
> According to the reciepts the car was WHITE in 1991 - i know that the 
> next owner Dennis Christensen restored it to stainless in 2000 but he 
> said he bought it from a consignment shop! (Whats that?)
>
>
A consignment shop is just a place that sells things for people, for percentage of the selling price. Basically their main function is to provide a store front and traffic and most pure consignment shops don't actually own any of the inventory they have themselves.

Can't really say i've ever seen one that handles cars before though.

--
Chris
VIN# 3209
http://badger.brazi.net/index.pl/delorean






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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 03:19:55 -0000
From: "dmc01081" <rgoodwin2001_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Powdercoated DMC frames experience anyone?

Have you considered a galvanized frame as an option?  My frame was galvanized in the early 90's by the original owner and survived Kansas City in the winter for over 10 years as a daily driver.  Is a great article in Delorean World on the frame change out.  I do not know the issue number and issue but here is a link to the article entitled "rust never sleeps" http://www.roberts- engineering.com/DeLorean/RustNeverSleeps.pdf  

Robert
Houston 1081



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Dore" <dmcjohn_at_dml_h...> wrote:
>
> Hi guys,
> 
> I'm looking for anyone who has experience with a powdercoated
frame 
> in a DeLorean (or even a partly powdercoated frame, such as a
frame 
> with a new powdercoated front frame extension welded on).
> 
> I've never heard any real life example of how durable
powdercoating 
> is on our frames.. Well, I've been told its great, but have no
idea 
> how long it is expected to last.
> 
> When the vendors sell refurbished cars, they have freshly powdercoated 
> frames, but what I'm wondering is how soon afterwards
do 
> the frames start to show signs of rust again? Does the
powdercoated 
> surface become chipped from stones etc easily? Has anyone added a 
> clearcoat over the powdercoating to give it extra
protection/strength?
> 
> There was a guy called Nick on the list a few years ago, who did a 
> frame off restoration on his car, and powdercoated his frame. If 
> you're still here Nick, how does the frame look now after a few
years 
> of use?
> 
> Anyone who had their frame extension replaced a few years ago -
how 
> is the powdercoating holding up in this area today?
> 
> Thanks a million to anyone with any information!
> 
> Regards,
> John
>








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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2006 23:22:58 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Fuel Accumulator Replacement - Stuck

Steve, Did you see the removal instruction n the web site I also made 2 wrenches that are long for leverage to break the bolts loose.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Steve
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 1:20 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Fuel Accumulator Replacement - Stuck

Group,

An attempt to replace the fuel accumulator over the 3 day weekend kind of failed.  Here are my findings.  Perhaps someone will find the information useful in the future.

1.  Looking at the Section 2, Subsection 1, group 0 parts diagram, the fuel accumulator has the 2 metal fittings pointing forward toward the fuel tank.  But on VIN 04421, it is pointing backwards toward the engine.  Which way does yours point?

2.  I've been able to disconnect part #41, the 90 degree elbow, part 36, the flexible fuel pipe, and drop the whole accumulator down through the hole in chasis.
However, I am
having trouble with part #38, SPL Fir Tree Insert and part 4, Hose-Fuel Return and Feed: I can't disconnect them.  Generous amount of PB Blaster oil and long handled wrench didn't move the connector an inch where it is connected to the accumulator.  It's like the fuel accumulator and the metal fitting are welded together.  Banging the metal connector didn't help.  Is it possible someone put lock tight on the fitting?  Any suggestions?
 
3.  In the struggle against seemingly welded together fittings, I damaged the Fuel Return & Feed Hose #4.  The hose (part 4) and the fitting (part 38) are coming apart.
It's leaking
fuel.  The rubber covering on the hose (part 4) is flaking off and exposing white braided material.  The part 4 and part 38 are press fitted together.  Perhaps it is time to replace the hose?  How do you repair the connection?

4.  From the flexible fuel pipe (part 36), I collected at least 5 gallons of fuel.  According to previous postings, I shouldn't be getting much fuel since the fuel pump is not running.  
The car sat for at least 15 hours before work started.  Is my fuel system messed up?

Thank you for your help.


Steve
VIN#04421









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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 04:20:16 -0000
From: "Steve" <p2freak_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Accumulator Replacement - Stuck

Martin,

Thanks for the reply.  If I am to cut off the fuel hose, where would
you suggest I cut and then what do I do with the cut hose?

Concerning your comment on removing the hose from hardline in the
second paragraph.  I am not familiar with crowsfoot and spanner wrench
tools (Googled spanner wrench, and it looks like a giant cross at
least 40 cm long).  Could you elaborate on the tools and procedures? 
I believe you are talking about the oval shaped hole where one
normally access the fuel accumulator.



Steve
VIN#04421


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd
<martin_at_dml_d...> wrote:
>
> This is not going to help too much but one of the things I personally 
> had made when starting up in the DeLorean business was getting all the 
> hoses made with new ends and in a modern flexible high pressure rubber 
> fuel hose - mainly for the fuel pump and for the accumulator. I believe 
> the vendors stateside still sell everythig as seperate parts. When I
get 
> an accumulator like yours that refuses to budge, I just cut off the
hose 
> and replace it. 







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