From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 4:00 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3082

There are 19 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Blower Fan Speed Switch Hard To Fit??
From: "Eric" <hollywood2311_at_dml_gmail.com>

2. RE: Re: Powdercoated DMC frames experience anyone?
From: robin.coombe_at_dml_oxinst.co.uk

3. Re: Powdercoated DMC frames experience anyone?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

4. Orlando FL DeLorean Gathering *with cruise to Old Town* Sat, Jan 21st
From: "Michael Cole" <stainless_delorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Re: Door / Window Rattle
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. San Diego British Rolling Car Day - 15 April, 2006
From: "dmcox_sd" <dmcox_at_dml_tfb.com>

7. Re: Powdercoated DMC frames experience anyone?
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

8. Crankshaft Pulley
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Re: What do you know about VIN 16723? (Minnesota car from 91 - 2005, Doug Bright)
From: "mrvic20" <faycraig.newton_at_dml_virgin.net>

10. Values
From: "Jason" <rowejj_at_dml_tds.net>

11. RE: Re: Newsday Article
From: "Dom Diaz" <dom_diaz_at_dml_hotmail.com>

12. Re: Powdercoated DMC frames experience anyone?
From: "Derek" <derek.grozio_at_dml_verizon.net>

13. Re: Crankshaft Pulley
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>

14. Re: Fuel Accumulator Replacement - Stuck
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

15. Soft brake peddle UPDATE
From: Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>

16. Re: Newsday Article
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

17. Re: Powdercoated DMC frames experience anyone?
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

18. Rebuilding Starters and Motorola Alternators?
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>

19. New Flux Capacitor available, and other "unique" products
From: Hank <heskin_at_dml_gmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2006 16:38:26 -0000
From: "Eric" <hollywood2311_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Blower Fan Speed Switch Hard To Fit??

We covered this topic not that long ago on Tamir's!:

http://tinyurl.com/7sdrw


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Alistair McCann" <pilot25dmc_at_dml_o...>
wrote:
>
> Hi all
> 
> My blower fan speed switch broke today and I was straight on to
DMCH 
> to order a new one but how hard is it to fit....  It looks to be 
> pretty straight forward but I am sure that there is a hidden snag.
> 
> I take it that the old one just unplugs from an electrical block 
> connector and then is pushed through the hole on the front of the
a/c 
> switch panel, then the old one is fitted in its place. 
> 
> Am I right in this assumption??
> 
> Alistair
> Belfast.
>








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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 11:26:56 -0000
From: robin.coombe_at_dml_oxinst.co.uk
Subject: RE: Re: Powdercoated DMC frames experience anyone?

I can't speak for the longevity of powder coating or galvanising as it wasn't my car and I didn't do the work (just documents the process on my web site for someone else) but if you want to see what was involved in Galvanising and Powder Coating a Delorean frame, take a look at the following site:

	<http://www.delorean-dmc12.co.uk/restoration/default.html>

Click on the site link, then on The Restoration section, then Chassis.

It'll give you an idea of the kind of work involved and the look of the finished product.


Robin.
P.S.  (It's not my car and I didn't do the restoration, just documented it on behalf of someone else - details on the site.)

-----Original Message-----
From: dmc01081 [mailto:rgoodwin2001_at_dml_hotmail.com]
Sent: 17 January 2006 03:20
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Powdercoated DMC frames experience anyone?

Have you considered a galvanized frame as an option?  My frame was galvanized in the early 90's by the original owner and survived Kansas City in the winter for over 10 years as a daily driver.  Is a great article in Delorean World on the frame change out.  I do not know the issue number and issue but here is a link to the article entitled "rust never sleeps"
http://www.roberts- engineering.com/DeLorean/RustNeverSleeps.pdf  

Robert
Houston 1081



[moderator snip]




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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 14:45:43 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Powdercoated DMC frames experience anyone?

Zinc coating, aka galvanizing, is not a great option. You have to find someone with a tank large enough to dip the frame in, it adds a LOT of weight, it messes up all the holes which have to be drilled/tapped out, you have to cut open any areas that can trap the molten zinc, and the frame can distort from the heat. Before doing zinc I would consider powder, no distortion and much less weight.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 



-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmc01081" <rgoodwin2001_at_dml_h...> wrote:
>
> Have you considered a galvanized frame as an option?  My frame was 
> galvanized in the early 90's by the original owner and survived Kansas 
> City in the winter for over 10 years as a daily driver.  Is a great 
> article in Delorean World on the frame change out.  I do not
>







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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 15:27:01 -0000
From: "Michael Cole" <stainless_delorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Orlando FL DeLorean Gathering *with cruise to Old Town* Sat, Jan 21st

Hello everyone.

I would like to take this time to invite everyone who is able to
attend to a DeLorean work day/ car show and cruise to Old Town in
Kissimmee on January 21, 2005.

We are meeting at 8:30 a.m. at the Altemonte Springs mall in Central
FL, then heading over to Brandon (Morpheus')apartment community to do
repairs, install parts, hang out, etc.  

I was able to secure permission to attend (as a group) the Saturday
Night Cruise at Old Town which is reserved primarily for carls 1970
and above.  I explained how it was the 25th anniversary of the car and
how this is one of the few gatherings of this many DeLoreans in one
place at one time.  We are parking on the brick driveway known as
Trophy Row, which requires us to be at old town as early as possible.
 We are going to be there at 3:30 pm., and all cars must be present at
that time.  If we are late or another group stakes claim, we will
still be parked as a group.  Since it is the 25th anniversary, more
than likely we will be the group at the end of the cruise to close it out!

Its a day full of delorean activities, cruising, showing, and cruising
again.  If you wish to attend, please email me no later than Thursday,
January 19th to confirm because i do have to give an accurate car
count no later than FRIDAY, 12:00 pm.

I know we have alot of Tampa DeLorean people and a few of you in
Central and South Florida.  Please feel free to come on out!


Michael Cole
stainless_delorean(at)yahoo.com







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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 09:06:28 -0800 (PST)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Door / Window Rattle

James,
It could be the lower window tracks. When the window is all the way up they are
free to move around with no weight in them, especially if the window track bolts
are loose. Check to see if you have any loose bolts. Also while you have the
upper & lower door panels off... drive around a bit with the door panels off so
you can see what happens in there while driving, hitting bumps, etc.

To remove rattles in my doors & Patrick C's we used plenty of white lithium (sp?)
greese and the fuzzy side of velcro so metal wasn't rubbing against metal. 

Hope this helps.

Shannon Y
16506

-----------------------------------

   From: "James" <deloreandmcxii_at_dml_excite.com>
Subject: Door / Window Rattle

It has been a bit since I've posted. I kinda get disinterested in all 
things DeLorean when she's tucked away for the winter. But I managed 
to get her out a couple of day in a row while the salt and snow is 
gone. Just to get the juices flowin.

She has developed a rattle in the doors that I thought was the lock/
handle linkage. I noticed, however, that it only rattles when the 
window is all the way up. It has to be completly sealed or the rattle 
does not occur.

Any idea where this might be coming from. It it hard to pinpoint, 
sometimes it sounds like lower door, sometimes upper door, and 
sometimes even the roof section of the door.

Thanks! Can you beleive DCS06 is only 6 months away!!?

-James LaLonde 4009

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 




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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 17:27:24 -0000
From: "dmcox_sd" <dmcox_at_dml_tfb.com>
Subject: San Diego British Rolling Car Day - 15 April, 2006

For those in the southern California area, mark your calendars for 
April 15th this year.  I put a flyer for the event in the files area -
 look for a Word document called 11th Annual BCD (British Car Day).

We've had a really good Delorean turnout the last few years and 
everyone has had a good time.  A couple of years ago, we got to see 
one of the first Lotus Elise imported into the US.  In 2005, there 
were over 225 British cars in attendance, including 7 Deloreans.  
Because of the size, this year's event will not end at a restaurant 
as before, but instead we will be going to a local park for a 
picnic.  The only cost will be a $2.00 entrance fee to the park.  The 
route will be touring the San Diego back-country and should be a fine 
ride.  I've spent a lot of time cruising that area on my motorcycle, 
and can promise good roads and nice scenery.  I won't make any 
promises about the weather, but it should be very good at that time 
of the year.

For more information, read the flyer or contact me at:
dmcox (_at_dml_) delorean (dot) com

I hope to see another big turnout this year.

Dave Cox
vin 16367







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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 10:13:11 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Powdercoated DMC frames experience anyone?

 
 
In a message dated 1/17/2006 1:52:07 A.M. Central Standard Time,  
nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net writes:

The  training arms were galvanized due to the harsher environment.

The  finish is great and durable.  I don't drive it a lot so I can't  reply
relative to its long lasting  performance.

Nick



>>>
I plan on removing my entire suspension later this winter and getting it  
refurbished. Should I get everything powdercoated or galvanized?  Drawbacks  to 
either one?
 
Andy
 
Fargo, ND  
1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 09:26:50 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Crankshaft Pulley

All of the posts saying to use an impact gun instead
of locking the engine makes me wonder how you all
re-assemble it using the proper torque.



__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 20:00:48 -0000
From: "mrvic20" <faycraig.newton_at_dml_virgin.net>
Subject: Re: What do you know about VIN 16723? (Minnesota car from 91 - 2005, Doug Bright)

Hi

I have located Doug Bright!  I just had a great chat with him!  He 
owned the car for 5/6 years when it was and told some interesting 
stuff!! Best of all he is going to send me a picture of when it was 
white!!!!

If you know any more about 16723 i would love to know!


many thanks

Craig

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "mrvic20" <faycraig.newton_at_dml_v...> 
wrote:
>
> Hi everyone!
> 
> I imported my car to the uk in april 2005...i got very little 
> history with the car so i have been doing some research on VIN 
16723 
> and was wondering if anyone knows of the whereabouts of DOUG 
> BRIGHT.  According to receipts i received when i bought the car he 
> owned the car between 7/17/91 and 4/19/98!  I have 2 address for 
> Doug in minnesota and wrote to both but with no reply, however it 
is 
> highly likely that he no longer lives there as the last receipt 
was 
> 98! 
> 
> According to the reciepts the car was WHITE in 1991 - i know that 
> the next owner Dennis Christensen restored it to stainless in 2000 
> but he said he bought it from a consignment shop! (Whats that?)
> 
> I would love to contact Doug to find out more about the history of 
> my car!  Can you help? Do you know anything about VIN 16723? 
(Black 
> interior auto which was definately white between 91 and 2000 and 
> spent the majority of its life in minnesota!)
> 
> Any help on my detective trail would be greatly appreciated 
(however 
> small)
> 
> many Thanks
> 
> Craig Churchill (Devon , UK)
> DOC 388 Vin 16723
>








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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 19:09:35 -0500
From: "Jason" <rowejj_at_dml_tds.net>
Subject: Values

        Hi all, this may sound really...really stupid but does anyone know of an 
online source of cars values that would show the lowest value of our car? 
Yes, that's right, the lowest. The total opposite of what we would normally
want. If anyone could help it would be greatly appreciated. I need to find 
something by wednesday morning. Thanks in advance.......

                                 Jason  #5903 - for now at least...hopefully forever though

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 14:18:32 -0500
From: "Dom Diaz" <dom_diaz_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Newsday Article

Having owned both; I disagree. The Ferrari is more recognized and, in my opinion as a driver, more enjoyable because you canexperience more open air. The Delorean is a great car (with fantastic styling), don't get me wrong, but half of the attention it gets is from people uneducated about the marquee and with all kinds of theories about what motor is in it, drug conspiracies, and whether or not JZD is still in jail (RIP).If only JZD could have designed the inside of the Ferrari (Not nearly as cozy). I'm just saying let's not let our imaginations get outta hand here...;-)

> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com> From: blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk> Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2006 02:06:28 +0000> Subject: Re: [DML] Newsday Article> > hey hold on the car is not just a great car, it is a FANTASTIC car.> > yes it needs maintenance, but so do all.> > and the engine choice, i know the power would be good but would you > really want a ferrari or lotus engine which would cost a fortune to > maintain and rebuild.> i looked at lotus esprits (1980's) but gather you are talking plus > 5000 uk money just for an engine rebuild.> i'd rather stick to the prv and go to the local shop to buy the > air/oil/fuel filter etc.> and JZD was just of course developing the twin turbo so had the > factory continued, who knows what we would of had.> > if you drive down the road in a ferarri or a Delorean, which will > the most people look at? got to be Delorean every time.> 




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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 17:33:47 -0000
From: "Derek" <derek.grozio_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Powdercoated DMC frames experience anyone?

> David Teitelbaum wrote:
> > An alternative to powder is to remove the
> > loose epoxy, sand, and repaint. If the car is not driven in bad
> > weather it will last a long time.
> > David Teitelbaum
> > vin 10757

Any idea what type/brand/color of paint should be used to match the 
epoxy? I plan on sanding down my tow hooks as they are showing a bit of 
rust, and painting with rustbullet to protect them, then cover with a 
matching paint. Just looking for that product info. Thanks!

-Derek #10084








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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 20:30:49 -0000
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Crankshaft Pulley

  I use an impact gun when space permits, mine claims that it develops
~640lb/ft in reverse, so I haven't run into a crank pulley bolt that
it wouldn't remove.  When space is tight I use a Snap-on 36" breaker
bar and put it on the crank bolt, then I brace the bar against a solid
area and "bump" the starter.  Usually this will break a semi-stubborn
bolt loose.  I have NOT tried this on a D, so it may not work, there
may not be anything solid enough to brace the bar against.  Also, you
want to disable the ignition so the engine won't start.
  I know this isn't the "right way" to do this, but it has saved me
from having to remove the radiator in front-engine cars.  
If you try this, you do so at your own risk.  The bar can break all
sorts of stuff (including you) if you set it up incorrectly, or get
between it and the frame.  Also, since the D is mostly fiberglass back
there, it might not have a strong enough place to brace the bar
against.  That said, it might just do the trick.

Matt Smith

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "natesky1980" <ncskalsk_at_dml_m...> wrote:
>
> A proper torque-rated (>150ft. lbs) impact wrench will remove the 
> pulley without the need to lock the flywheel.  I've done it this way 
> a couple times with no complaints.
> 
> Other than using a impact wrench or locking the flywheel, the only 
> method left (that I can think of) is blocking the wheels and putting 
> the transmission in drive (or reverse), that should allow you to 
> remove the nut with a breaker bar.  I wouldn't recommend this method 
> (even though I have in the past, on a manual).  Keep in mind that in 
> drive the car will attempt to roll backwards as you apply counter-
> clockwise force to the crank and vice-versa in reverse.
> 
> I've heard, and it makes sense to me, that you shouldn't apply lock-
> tite when you put the nut back on (although the manual recommends it).
[moderator snip]




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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2006 03:12:37 -0000
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Fuel Accumulator Replacement - Stuck

hi

if youv'e dropped the accumulator through the whole youve done the 
hard bit. i then removed the small return feed so the unit would 
lower better.

if i  remember right, i think i use two wrenches, one on the nut and 
one on the accumulator, postion them so the is a small inch gap at 
the handle end and then 'crush' the two handles together..this way 
you can get a huge amount of torque
i also use this method to tighten (but not as much as you don't want 
to over tighten).
you can't get enough torque holding the accumulator by in your hand 
(if this is what you have done)

i think it is normal for the rubber to perish on the fuel pipes, you 
will find the same at the petrol pump end if they are original.

but you should not be getting that much petrol out of this as the 
pump is not running and there should really be little/no pressyre 
after that amount of time.
the petrol would need to run upwards through the feed pipes, unless 
it its working as a syphon, is your check vale on the pump ok?
this needs sorting as in an emergency you don't want petrol to be 
able to escape from the tank.



Regards

Steve


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
>
> Steve, Did you see the removal instruction n the web site I also 
made 2
> wrenches that are long for leverage to break the bolts loose.
> John Hervey
> www.specialtauto.com
> 
> 
> 
[moderator snip]




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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 19:19:35 -0800
From: Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Soft brake peddle UPDATE

Well, it looks like I finally have good brakes now. Here's a break down (no 
pun intended) of what I did:

Bench bled the master cylinder - This sadly didn't make any difference. I'm 
still not sure what I did wrong as I got a kit to do it. After pumping it 
20-30 times and not getting any bubbles, I reconnected the hard lines. 
Rebled the whole system and nothing!

Replaced rear rubber lines - I thought maybe the combination of the new MC 
and front braided SS lines might have caused the old ones to swell and 
fail. So I spent approximately 4 hours (not including the trip to the 
hospital to get 5 stitches in my arm) replacing them! I've never had to use 
so much force with a hammer on the D to get the old lines out. After 
replacing them, I rebled the system and still no improvement.

Two person bleed - This was the last thing I could think of, since I 
previously used a one-man pressure bleeder. I didn't have a partner 
immediately handy to help, so I just bled the front left brake as I could 
use one arm to pump the brake peddle and another to open/close the bleeder. 
Sure enough I ended up getting a bunch of air through the lines and the 
peddle got much stiffer!

Took it for a quick test drive and the peddle is not nearly as soft now. 
I'm fairly confident that once I get somebody to help me bleed all 4 
brakes, I'll get all the air out of the system! So while that one-man 
pressure bleeder was nice, I wouldn't use it to bleed a newly installed 
system. At least when it comes time to bleed the system again in 2 years, 
it will be a breeze as there shouldn't be any air in the system!

Thanks for the tips,
Chris
VIN 4099

At 09:38 AM 1/5/2006 -0800, I wrote:
>I just recently replaced my calipers and master cylinder. I then used a 1
>man pressure bleeder to bleed the system. While the brakes work, I have to
>pump the peddle once during braking before it gets firm and the car stops
>really well. I rebled the system, which helped a little. But I still have a
>soft peddle the first time I press it.
>
>Is there a special step in bleeding the two piston calipers? It sounds like
>I may still have an air pocket in the system. Or is it possible I have
>something else wrong? The only other thing I can think of is I replaced the
>front rubber lines with the braided SS, while I kept the original rear
>ones. So is it possible the rear ones are expanding too much now? I can
>replace them if necessary, but it's a lot more work I'd rather not do right
>now.






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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2006 02:58:25 -0000
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Newsday Article

hi

glad i could help


steve


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_c...> wrote:
>
> Steve,
> 
> Thanks for the rocking tip it worked, I rocked the car in second 
gear
> and bingo it started up this morning no problems, guess I need a 
new
> starter.  And what was really wierd it wasn't hunting for a steady
> idle either (like it mormally does), just nice and smooth.  I need 
to
> get into it and figure out just what the problem is.  I have been
> reading and re-reading the manuals on the Lamda system and idle
> control system all day today.
> 
> Does anyone know where I can get a diagnotic plug and harness?  
6704
> is missing it, I looked everywhere and it's not there.  I want to 
hook
> up the dwell meter but guess what, no where to hook it up to.
> 
[moderator snip]





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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2006 03:18:36 -0000
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Powdercoated DMC frames experience anyone?

Hi

Personally, if i was doing this i would galvanise/powder coat and 
then epoxy coat.
i think the quality of the epoxy is proven as many cars are good 
after 25 years, however i am not sure with galvanising/powder 
coating as i thought they scratch much easier and one any 
damage/scratches rust soon sets in.
the original epoxy is pretty tough stuff and if you 'slip' against 
it with a tool is resists well.

Regards

Steve







--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, robin.coombe_at_dml_o... wrote:
>
> I can't speak for the longevity of powder coating or galvanising 
as it
> wasn't my car and I didn't do the work (just documents the process 
on my web
> site for someone else) but if you want to see what was involved in
> Galvanising and Powder Coating a Delorean frame, take a look at the
> following site:
> 
> 	<http://www.delorean-dmc12.co.uk/restoration/default.html>
> 
> Click on the site link, then on The Restoration section, then 
Chassis.
> 
> It'll give you an idea of the kind of work involved and the look 
of the
> finished product.
> 
> 
> Robin.
> P.S.  (It's not my car and I didn't do the restoration, just 
documented it
> on behalf of someone else - details on the site.)
[moderator snip]




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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 20:16:45 -0800
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: Rebuilding Starters and Motorola Alternators?

 
I'm facing the need to get both my starter and Motorola alternator
addressed soon.  I'm not displeased with the options for new and rebuilt
components out there, but in the past I've had good luck on other
vehicles having these units professionally rebuilt.  Living in the LA
are there are a number of very good shops that do this work at
apparently competitive prices.  I've talked with two local vendors who
have both said they should be able to get the proper components, perhaps
even a higher output stator and related components for the alternator,
for prices right around $100 each.  This would include blasting the
casings and refinishing, etc.  All of these promises were made though
the components are still assembled and on the car mind you.

I've heard from other sources that the components, particularly for the
alternator, have become very difficult to find.  Who else has been
through is recently?  Did anyone find a specific shop I should be
talking to (I'm in LA but I'm already looking at shipping charges if I
replace the units, so no good option is out).

Any help appreciated.

Tom Tait
10902




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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 21:25:22 -0500
From: Hank <heskin_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: New Flux Capacitor available, and other "unique" products

Check out the new Flux Capacitor from KaleCoAuto:

http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6&products_id=28

Their Lowering Kits, Blinker Fluid, and Johnson Rods look like
interesting new products.

-Hank
#1619





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