From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, January 20, 2006 4:15 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3085

There are 24 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Maybe Catalytic?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

2. Re: Orlando Delorean Gathering
From: "Brandon" <morpheus34711_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Re: Values
From: "Dan" <djdanwilson_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. Re: Newsday Article
From: "dom1172" <dom_diaz_at_dml_hotmail.com>

5. Re: Soft brake peddle UPDATE
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>

6. Water leak source
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>

7. Re: Maybe Catalytic?
From: "valleyrat12" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. Re: Possible fuel system problem/observation
From: "Gekko_at_dml_TDS" <gekko_at_dml_flex.com>

9. Re: Re: Values
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

10. Re: Re: Delorean tires
From: rodney rael <rodrael1_at_dml_gmail.com>

11. RE: Re: Maybe Catalytic?
From: "Redgee Capili" <redgee_at_dml_capili.org>

12. Spotted in STL
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

13. Re: Re: ebay Louvre Struts or another reason to buy from a DeLorean Vendor!
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

14. RE: Re: Maybe Catalytic?
From: "Redgee Capili" <redgee_at_dml_capili.org>

15. Re: Maybe Catalytic?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

16. Re: Possible fuel system problem/observation
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

17. Re: Rebuilding Starters and Motorola Alternators?
From: rodney rael <rodrael1_at_dml_gmail.com>

18. Re: Values
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>

19. Deloreans in Toronto
From: Parts Pit Mike <thepartspit_at_dml_rogers.com>

20. Re: Re: Values
From: rodney rael <rodrael1_at_dml_gmail.com>

21. Thanks All (Was: Otterstat Popped Out While Driving)
From: "trdstne71" <trdstne71_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. Re: Maybe Catalytic?
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

23. Backup light help.
From: "mugread" <roland_at_dml_dnai.com>

24. Re: Track Day At Autobahn Country Club Near Chicago
From: "feffman" <feffman_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2006 14:56:26 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Maybe Catalytic?

You didn't mention how long it has been since you did any type of tune-up work on the car. Fresh gas is always a good thing to have.
Using a good injector cleaner once in a while is also a good idea. I don't think you will change the #'s much using different octane. IMHO I suggest a tune-up changing the fuel filter, spark plugs, ignition wires, distributer cap and rotor, all the little vacuum lines, and cleaning and testing the injectors. I also would check the ignition timing and the mechanical and vacuum advance. If all this doesn't improve your #'s you  *may*  need a catalytic converter.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Redgee Capili" <redgee_at_dml_c...> wrote:
>
> Hi Everyone
>  
> It's been a while since I've written the group.  I read through some
of the
> archives (lots of great information there), but I was hoping to get 
> some experienced minds on this one.
>  
> I recently failed my smot test (California), and the results were as
> follows:
>  
> At 15mph
> RPM - 1916
> CO2 - 14.2
> O2 - 0.1
> HC - 141max, 45ave, 94meas
> CO - 0.99max, 0.16ave, 0.94meas
> NO - 1148max, 434ave, 45meas
> Result - Pass
>  
> At 25mph
> RPM - 1903
> CO2 - 14.4
> O2 - 0.5
> HC - 113max, 33ave, 15meas
> CO - 0.79max, 0.14ave, 0.00meas <--- this showed normal after a
manual test
> NO - 978max, 357ave, 1787meas  <<<<< problem - pass is 1100 Result - 
> Fail
>  
> The technician went through a series of checks based on the results
and he
> suggested either the fuel injection or fuel pump not sending enough ga







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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2006 12:58:48 -0000
From: "Brandon" <morpheus34711_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Orlando Delorean Gathering

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, whocruiser_at_dml_a... wrote:
>
>  
> I'll be there, but I think you know that already...  Do you know how
 late 
> things are likely to finish up?  Should I plan on staying overnight
in  the 
> local area Saturday night?  With a 3-4 hour drive home, I might
prefer  to stay 
> over rather than hit the road tired after a long day.   Likewise, I
might well 
> drive up Friday and get a good night's sleep before going  over to
the mall on 
> Saturday morning.  Either way I have friends nearby in  Maitland
whose sofa I 
> can borrow (yeah Chas, I'm CCing you on this as a  reminder...), I
just need 
> to know if I should still tell them to expect me  & when.
>  
> Dan Harris - VIN # 1662 - FL Tag # MY 81DMC
>  

I think that staying overnight is probably a good idea, considering we probably won't be breaking off until after 9 or 10, depending on if we grab a bite to eat after the cruise or not.  Coming up Friday night is not a bad idea either, if it's within your budget for a hotel room. 
We are looking forward to having as many Ds as possible on Saturday, so even if you can't make it out early we would love to have you out to Old Town later in the day!  

-Brandon Shelton (Morpheus)
#4205
Orlando, FL.








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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2006 07:59:02 -0000
From: "Dan" <djdanwilson_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Values

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> 
> In another 8-10 years when it's
> got 150k miles on the clock I'll still be running a huge number of new 
> parts and I'll still be perfectly reliable - while the "classics" that 
> sit in garages and gather dust will require even more time and money 
> to be useful than they do today.

Actually, that is not correct. "Classics" that sit in garages and figuratively gather dust are "useful" and used as dedicated show/concours cars, trailer queens, garage ornaments, and museum/collection pieces. They would no longer be "useful" in those roles if you upgrade them with new and improved after market parts to make them reliable and drivable, two things such cars need not be.
Getting you from point A to point B and back again reliably is not their purpose. "Useful" is not necessarily defined as reliably drivable.

If you want an all original "trailer queen", then that's what you buy.
If you want a "driver", then buy a "driver". You don't buy one for the purpose of having the other. That's not cost effective.

Dan W.
VIN 16192
AZ-D








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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2006 15:45:10 -0000
From: "dom1172" <dom_diaz_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Newsday Article

Fair enough, I guess it all depends on why you drive a car.

I do miss the D, though.

Dom

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
>
> More recognized & more fun to drive... probably yes, but as far as
getting more
> attention... no. 
> 
> Joe O'Brien & I have a friend who owned a Ferrari 308 (the Magnum
P.I. car). When
> driving around one day (Joe & 'friend' in the Ferrari) and me
following behind,
> we came to a stop light. Joe heard the people on the corner
yell, "awe wow look
> at that car", "cool a DeLorean" - totally ignoring the bright red
Ferrari right
> in front of them. This also happend to me on other occations while
driving with
> the Ferrari.
> 
> Shannon Y
> 16506
> 
[moderator snip]




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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2006 16:00:34 -0000
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Soft brake peddle UPDATE

Just my two cents here :)
  I've never been able to bleed all the air out of new brake components with a one person bleeder.  I don't know why, but I think the dry components hold air bubbles on the surfaces inside and need the pressure and agitation of fluid being forced by the master cylinder to knock the bubbles loose.
I just grab another technician and bleed the brakes, that way there's no question about air remaining in the system.
However, if someone does find a successful one person bleeder...

Matt Smith

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <p2freak_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>
> A suggestion.
> 
> You can get airline check valves from fish/pet stores.  The check 
> valves are used in conjunction with air pump to prevent water from 
> siphoned into the air pump.
> 
> The check valve costs about 2 bucks.  Connect to your bleed line and 
> voila.  Automatic one way valve.  No need to pinch the line with pliers.
> 
> 
> 
> Steve
> VIN#04421
> 
[moderator snip]




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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2006 16:03:24 -0000
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Water leak source

Hello all,
  I found the source of my water leak yesterday, it's coming in by the window on the passenger's side, running down inside the door, and standing on the lower door seal.  How can I seal this window?  Is there something in the tech section that will help?  I'm still not sure if it's leaking past the fixed glass, or the sliding part, or possibly both.

Damp and foggy,
Matt Smith








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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2006 16:10:40 -0000
From: "valleyrat12" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Maybe Catalytic?

I am also in CA (Southern) and had the same problem when I brought my car in from Colorado. I kept failing NOx. Things I ended up
replacing: Cat (with SpecialT replacement) Tune-up, O2 sensor. I retested after this and STILL failed. I took the car to the guys at DMC in Garden Grove and they had their smog guy run the car. Before they took the car in they re adjusted the fuel mixture to bring it into spec. I ended up passing. In fact, I was told that my car should have passed on the other (3) occasions but the technician who tested it was not getting the wheels up to the proper RPM. In retrospect I don't think that my Cat needed replacement. 

Nathan
2277
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Redgee Capili" <redgee_at_dml_c...> wrote:
>
> Hi Everyone
>  
> It's been a while since I've written the group.  I read through
some of the
> archives (lots of great information there), but I was hoping to
get some
> experienced minds on this one.
>  
> I recently failed my smot test (California), and the results were
as
> follows:
>  
> At 15mph
> RPM - 1916
> CO2 - 14.2
> O2 - 0.1
> HC - 141max, 45ave, 94meas
> CO - 0.99max, 0.16ave, 0.94meas
> NO - 1148max, 434ave, 45meas
> Result - Pass
>  
> At 25mph
> RPM - 1903
> CO2 - 14.4
> O2 - 0.5
> HC - 113max, 33ave, 15meas
> CO - 0.79max, 0.14ave, 0.00meas <--- this showed normal after a
manual test
> NO - 978max, 357ave, 1787meas  <<<<< problem - pass is 1100 Result - 
> Fail
>  
> The technician went through a series of checks based on the
results and he
> suggested either the fuel injection or fuel pump not sending
enough gas OR
> the catalytic converter is no longer effective.  The Nitrogen
Oxide readings
> were high - everything else seemed fine.  The test results above
were from
> one run, we got the high NO readings on the second run - truly
weird.
>  
> Reading through some of the previous threads in the list, I could
actually
> also blame additional things like:
>     1. Gas in the tank is about 6 months old - haven't been
driving it much
> (this will change :-))
>     2. I've been using 91 octane (many of you felt strongly about
keeping it
> at 87 octane).
>  
> Well, before I was thinking of doing a fuel injection flush, or at
least run
> a cleaner through the system.  Pipe out as much of the old gas as
possible
> and refill with 87.  Then finally look at the catalytic converter
(maybe use
> SpecialT's catalytic replacement).  Does this sound right to you
guys?  Does
> the catalytic converter (41k original miles) sound like the
culprit here, as
> recommended by the technician?  Thanks.
>  
> R
>  
>  
>  
>  
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>









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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2006 08:17:12 -0800
From: "Gekko_at_dml_TDS" <gekko_at_dml_flex.com>
Subject: Re: Possible fuel system problem/observation

Nathan,

The fuel pump is built to overdeliver both volume and pressure so that the engine will never starve for fuel, even at high rpm's and full throttle.  The fuel from the return line is exactly as you percieved it, overrun from the accumulator.  Without any backpressure on the line (with an open ended line) the pump will run at max volume capacity which will be more volume than the oriface of the open line can actually pass at a given time so there will be some backup in the accumulator, which will present through the return line.  Not something I'd worry about.

Craig
07181



Message: 8
Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2006 06:16:55 -0000
From: "valleyrat12" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Possible fuel system problem/observation

I noticed while pumping the gas out of my tank that some fuel was coming out of the return line. I pumped the fuel via the fuel pump to the filter and collected it from there. Why would fuel come back through the return line? Possibly from the accumulator? If that is true than is it possible that my system pressure could be low due to this leak into the return line? Or is a little escape through the accumulator normal? 


Nathan
2277


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2006 10:15:57 -0800
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Values

On 1/18/06, Dan <djdanwilson_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Actually, that is not correct. "Classics" that sit in garages and 
> figuratively gather dust are "useful" and used as dedicated 
> show/concours cars, trailer queens, garage ornaments, and 
> museum/collection pieces. They would no longer be "useful" in those 
> roles if you upgrade them with new and improved after market parts to 
> make them reliable and drivable, two things such cars need not be.
> Getting you from point A to point B and back again reliably is not 
> their purpose. "Useful" is not necessarily defined as reliably drivable.

Heh. At the risk of offending some people: It's a car, one designed for high production numbers, designed to be driven. I know there are many people who buy cars for purposes other than driving them, but at that point they're not really cars anymore, just trophies. And that's OK, but let's just be honest about it.

> If you want an all original "trailer queen", then that's what you buy.
> If you want a "driver", then buy a "driver". You don't buy one for the 
> purpose of having the other. That's not cost effective.

Well, I agree with you here. My argument was simply in regards to the value. Claiming a car is low book simply because it's driven often is ridiculous. It really depends on the market for that particular car.

It appears to me that more DeLoreans are driven on a regular basis than other classics, and more and more people getting into DeLoreans are doing so for the purpose of driving them. Perhaps it's the relatively low cost of entry for such an exotic vehicle, parts availability, etc. I expect if, God forbid, I ever need to sell my car, I'll be able to find a buyer at medium to high book value a lot easier given it's "useful as a car" status.

-Ryan


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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2006 09:31:00 -0700
From: rodney rael <rodrael1_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Delorean tires

My solution that I am very happy with is high performance Falken Ziex
(manufactured by Sumitomo)..   the front is 195-60-R-14 and rear slight
compromise 225-60-R-15 these are sharp looking tires same tread pattern
(which is H speed rated)   They are a directional tire and black not the
RWL.   full road hazard and full warranty all 4 for 399.99!...   go to any
discount tire store.

ROdney
3300


On 1/16/06, Tom Tait <TTait_at_dml_brcweb.com> wrote:
>
> I have Goodrich TA with the RWL side mounted in and the Blackwall 
> facing out on rears.  Note that the front tires I got (TA Traction) 
> are black on both sides, which is good as they have a rotation 
> orientation and could not be flipped.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On 
> Behalf Of Cliff Schmucker
> Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 12:59 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Delorean tires
>
> well, it seems that the 235/60/15 situation has changed more than I 
> realized - so far have not been able to find anything other than RWL 
> (Raised White Letter) versions...
>
> [moderator snip]
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2006 10:58:17 -0800
From: "Redgee Capili" <redgee_at_dml_capili.org>
Subject: RE: Re: Maybe Catalytic?

Thanks David.  Tune was done about a year ago, but drove it less than 1000 miles since (been travelling).  Timing was right on - so that wasn't an issue.  I also drove it 50 miles before bringing it to the Smog Technician.

No misfires - she ran quick, just like how it's always driven.  The only issue was the rough idle at first start (but I expected that for sitting around).  

It sounds like you're not expecting the CC to be the least possible culprit here.  

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of David Teitelbaum
Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2006 6:56 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Maybe Catalytic?

You didn't mention how long it has been since you did any type of tune-up work on the car. Fresh gas is always a good thing to have.
Using a good injector cleaner once in a while is also a good idea. I don't think you will change the #'s much using different octane. IMHO I suggest a tune-up changing the fuel filter, spark plugs, ignition wires, distributer cap and rotor, all the little vacuum lines, and cleaning and testing the injectors. I also would check the ignition timing and the mechanical and vacuum advance. If all this doesn't improve your #'s you  *may*  need a catalytic converter.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Redgee Capili" <redgee_at_dml_c...> wrote:
>
> Hi Everyone
>  
> It's been a while since I've written the group.  I read through some
of the
> archives (lots of great information there), but I was hoping to get 
> some experienced minds on this one.
>  
> I recently failed my smot test (California), and the results were as
> follows:
>  
> At 15mph
> RPM - 1916
> CO2 - 14.2
> O2 - 0.1
> HC - 141max, 45ave, 94meas
> CO - 0.99max, 0.16ave, 0.94meas
> NO - 1148max, 434ave, 45meas
> Result - Pass
>  
> At 25mph
> RPM - 1903
> CO2 - 14.4
> O2 - 0.5
> HC - 113max, 33ave, 15meas
> CO - 0.79max, 0.14ave, 0.00meas <--- this showed normal after a
manual test
> NO - 978max, 357ave, 1787meas  <<<<< problem - pass is 1100 Result - 
> Fail
>  
> The technician went through a series of checks based on the results
and he
> suggested either the fuel injection or fuel pump not sending enough ga







To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links



 







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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2006 13:41:04 -0800 (PST)
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Spotted in STL

 
  I hate to use the list for a spotting, but we don't usually have many around here.  Today, in our unseasonal mid-60s weather, I've spotted two different DeLoreans in the St. Louis area.
   
  One downtown, the other had no license plates and drove through the Rain Tunnel Express car wash in Fenton, MO.  If either of you are on this list, please email me privately.  There are a few of us around here and we'd like to hear from you!
   
  From beautiful downtown St. Louis,
   
  Jake Kamphoefner
  1063
   


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2006 23:23:03 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: ebay Louvre Struts or another reason to buy from a DeLorean Vendor!

I've seen lots of cars where the triangular metal part of the engine cover catch is bent to make it shorter and overcome the problem of not being able to lift it high enough for the catch to click into place

Martin

Dave Swingle wrote:

>I just went out and measured a couple of sets. Original 05/81 date code 
>Lift-O-Mats are 17" ball center to center. I have a car here with a set 
>of Grady's that are a couple of years old - same measurement. The 
>louvers and hood work fine. You may have something else out of 
>adjustment.
>
>Dave S.
>






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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2006 15:58:01 -0800
From: "Redgee Capili" <redgee_at_dml_capili.org>
Subject: RE: Re: Maybe Catalytic?

Thanks Nathan - good to know.  I passed 2 years ago, so this was a bit of a surprise, consider that the 1325 has been running great.  I'll probably look into the mixture - could be running too lean.  Anyone know of a crude method to check if mixture dials are in the right settings?

 

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
valleyrat12
Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2006 8:11 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Maybe Catalytic?

I am also in CA (Southern) and had the same problem when I brought my car in from Colorado. I kept failing NOx. Things I ended up
replacing: Cat (with SpecialT replacement) Tune-up, O2 sensor. I retested after this and STILL failed. I took the car to the guys at DMC in Garden Grove and they had their smog guy run the car. Before they took the car in they re adjusted the fuel mixture to bring it into spec. I ended up passing.
In fact, I was told that my car should have passed on the other (3) occasions but the technician who tested it was not getting the wheels up to the proper RPM. In retrospect I don't think that my Cat needed replacement. 

Nathan
2277
[moderator snip]





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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2006 00:09:01 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Maybe Catalytic?

I would still suggest you make sure the mechanical and vacuum advance are both working. Just checking base timing would get you to pass at idle but at speed, if the advances are not working correctly, you would fail. You could still have a bad pattern on an injector too. The combustion chambers could also be carboned up causing high combustion temps and high NOX. It is not common for a CC to go bad but maybe someone hollowed it out or overheated it with a too rich mixture.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Redgee Capili" <redgee_at_dml_c...> wrote:
>
> Thanks David.  Tune was done about a year ago, but drove it less
than 1000
> miles since (been travelling).  Timing was right on - so that wasn't 
> an
> 







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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2006 00:18:02 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Possible fuel system problem/observation

Actually the excess fuel is returned by the Primary Pressure Regulator on the mixture unit. The return hose on the accumulator is there  when the diaphram inside the accumulator leaks. All the accumulator does is hold the system pressure up for a while after the motor has run (rest pressure)and it also takes some of the pressure spikes and surges out so the mixture unit does not see the pulsations from the fuel pump. If you see fuel come out of the accumulator from the return port (not the
hose) then the accumulator is bad. This is not a good indicator though, I had an accumulator go bad and because I didn't see any flow from the return port I thought it was OK. I was wrong because the port was plugged up inside with bits of rubber from the diaphram inside. I discovered that after cutting the thing open. Looked like small round chunks of black rubber. BTW because the pump "overdelivers" fuel it tends to heat the fuel as it passes through the "relief valve" aka Primary Pressure Regulator.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Gekko_at_dml_T..." <gekko_at_dml_f...> wrote:
>
> Nathan,
> 
> The fuel pump is built to overdeliver both volume and pressure so
that the engine will never starve for fuel, even at high rpm's and full t









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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2006 19:06:24 -0700
From: rodney rael <rodrael1_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Rebuilding Starters and Motorola Alternators?

Tom:

Go check out John Hervey's website.   www.specialtauto.com   He has the
rebuilt motorola (97 amps) for $180.  and also a 110 amp output for $180.00
and also a 150 amp I think that one is approx. $250.   Great guy and he
stands by what he sells!..

Rodney
3300


On 1/17/06, Tom Tait <TTait_at_dml_brcweb.com> wrote:
>
>
> I'm facing the need to get both my starter and Motorola alternator 
> addressed soon.  I'm not displeased with the options for new and 
> rebuilt components out there, but in the past I've had good luck on 
> other vehicles having these units professionally rebuilt.  Living in 
> the LA are there are a number of very good shops that do this work at 
> apparently competitive prices.  I've talked with two local vendors who 
> have both said they should be able to get the proper components, 
> perhaps even a higher output stator and related components for the 
> alternator, for prices right around $100 each.  This would include 
> blasting the casings and refinishing, etc.  All of these promises were 
> made though the components are still assembled and on the car mind you.
>
> I've heard from other sources that the components, particularly for 
> the alternator, have become very difficult to find.  Who else has been 
> through is recently?  Did anyone find a specific shop I should be 
> talking to (I'm in LA but I'm already looking at shipping charges if I 
> replace the units, so no good option is out).
>
> Any help appreciated.
>
> Tom Tait
> 10902
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2006 23:16:42 -0000
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Values

Since I planned to drive my D every day when I got it, I went out of my way to find a car that had been used similarly.  The PO, out of necessity, had replaced many of the old worn-out items.  Fuel lines, belts, tires, brakes, clutch cylinders, fuel pump, and suspension had all been done in the past two years.

I was willing to pay a premium for a smoothly-running D that might stay that way awhile.  Shortly after purchase, the very same points were made by the appraiser who appraised the car for $2K more than I paid.

Everyone will have their own opinion, but 8,000 miles and 8 months later with only $180 spent on labor (brake master), I feel the premium was worth it. The only critical item I also had to replace was the fuel pump, all other parts have been "tinkering" on my part. 

I could have spent $5K less, but I couldn't afford the time in lost use or potential glares from my wife every time I dipped back into the till to bring a different kind of car up to snuff. It was way easier for me to go to the well once.

Ryan, if I ever need to replace my car, God forbid, I'll make you an offer on yours! :)

Marv
#10820
AZ-D

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_g...> wrote:

> Well, I agree with you here. My argument was simply in regards to
the
> value. Claiming a car is low book simply because it's driven often
is
> ridiculous. It really depends on the market for that particular
car.
> 
> It appears to me that more DeLoreans are driven on a regular basis 
> than other classics, and more and more people getting into
DeLoreans
> are doing so for the purpose of driving them. Perhaps it's the 
> relatively low cost of entry for such an exotic vehicle, parts 
> availability, etc. I expect if, God forbid, I ever need to sell my 
> car, I'll be able to find a buyer at medium to high book value a
lot
> easier given it's "useful as a car" status.









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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2006 21:46:54 -0500 (EST)
From: Parts Pit Mike <thepartspit_at_dml_rogers.com>
Subject: Deloreans in Toronto

Okay, I can't help with those Pittsburgh sightings...
   
  But who on this list has a Delorean in or near Toronto?
   
  Parts Pit Mike


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2006 19:13:09 -0700
From: rodney rael <rodrael1_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Values

Ryan:

Well Put!!...   I agree wholeheartedly.   The value of the car is to drive
it and when I do at some point sell mine, it WILL get high book value due to it's drivability and usefulness again due to it's drivability.

Rodney
3300


On 1/19/06, Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com> wrote:
>
> On 1/18/06, Dan <djdanwilson_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> >
> > Actually, that is not correct. "Classics" that sit in garages and 
> > figuratively gather dust are "useful" and used as dedicated 
> > show/concours cars, trailer queens, garage ornaments, and 
> > museum/collection pieces. They would no longer be "useful" in those 
> > roles if you upgrade them with new and improved after market parts 
> > to make them reliable and drivable, two things such cars need not be.
> > Getting you from point A to point B and back again reliably is not 
> > their purpose. "Useful" is not necessarily defined as reliably drivable.
>
> Heh. At the risk of offending some people: It's a car, one designed 
> for high production numbers, designed to be driven. I know there are 
> many people who buy cars for purposes other than driving them, but at 
> that point they're not really cars anymore, just trophies. And that's 
> OK, but let's just be honest about it.
>
> > If you want an all original "trailer queen", then that's what you buy.
> > If you want a "driver", then buy a "driver". You don't buy one for 
> > the purpose of having the other. That's not cost effective.
>
> Well, I agree with you here. My argument was simply in regards to the 
> value. Claiming a car is low book simply because it's driven often is 
> ridiculous. It really depends on the market for that particular car.
>
> It appears to me that more DeLoreans are driven on a regular basis 
> than other classics, and more and more people getting into DeLoreans 
> are doing so for the purpose of driving them. Perhaps it's the 
> relatively low cost of entry for such an exotic vehicle, parts 
> availability, etc. I expect if, God forbid, I ever need to sell my 
> car, I'll be able to find a buyer at medium to high book value a lot 
> easier given it's "useful as a car" status.
>
> -Ryan
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2006 04:24:33 -0000
From: "trdstne71" <trdstne71_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Thanks All (Was: Otterstat Popped Out While Driving)

I just wanted to thank everyone on the list for their help.  The new otterstat arrived, and I figured out that I did clip the old one in incorrectly.  I also went with the suggestion to use a nylon tie wrap just for good measure.  My car seems to be running much better.  The temperature gauge has yet to rise above the quarter mark.

Now if I can just fix the squealing breaks...  :-D

Thanks again,

Daniel








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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2006 02:21:54 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Maybe Catalytic?

I notice that the RPM is actually lower at 25mph which leads me to believe you have an automatic?

Given the RPM I am suspect of the adjustment of the micro switch. If it is activated to the idle position the vacuum advance shuts down and the idle speed motor comes on. With a slight throttle open position to attain speed this would cause an imbalance in the air fuel ratio for that throttle position. It would seem that something like this is occuring since at 1916 rpm the engine was clean but at
1903 it wasn't. Even considering load at the same RPM I doubt if it is parts or fuel age/octane related. Could be a vacuum leak I would check the vacuum lines - ALL of them, especially at the fuel canister.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Redgee Capili" <redgee_at_dml_c...> wrote:
>
> Hi Everyone
>  
> It's been a while since I've written the group.  I read through
some of the
> archives (lots of great information there), but I was hoping to
get some
> experienced minds on this one.
>  
> I recently failed my smot test (California), and the results were
as
> follows:
>  
> At 15mph
> RPM - 1916
> CO2 - 14.2
> O2 - 0.1
> HC - 141max, 45ave, 94meas
> CO - 0.99max, 0.16ave, 0.94meas
> NO - 1148max, 434ave, 45meas
> Result - Pass
>  
> At 25mph
> RPM - 1903
> CO2 - 14.4
> O2 - 0.5
> HC - 113max, 33ave, 15meas
> CO - 0.79max, 0.14ave, 0.00meas <--- this showed normal after a
manual test
> NO - 978max, 357ave, 1787meas  <<<<< problem - pass is 1100 Result - 
> Fail
>  








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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2006 05:19:35 -0000
From: "mugread" <roland_at_dml_dnai.com>
Subject: Backup light help.

When I purchased my DeLorean, the backup light sockets had no light bulbs in them.  Upon installing bulbs, I discovered that the lights are on constantly no matter where the automatic transmission gear selector is set.

It is probably the switch.  Where do I find the switch?  Is the switch part of another switch?

Please help.

Thank you,
Roland Smith
Vin: 6667







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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2006 03:24:59 -0000
From: "feffman" <feffman_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Track Day At Autobahn Country Club Near Chicago

Fellow British Car Fans:

Registration and the track day packet for the Lotus Ltd's June 5th track day at Autobahn (www.AutobahnCountryClub.net) near Chicago can now be done on line with Pay Pal at:

     http://www.LotusCarClub.org/trackday.htm

Please note there is a $5 upcharge to register on line using Pay Pal. 
Mail the registration form as instructed, noting your Pay Pal payment.  

If you would like to more information or a registration e-mailed contact me at Feffman_at_dml_Yahoo.com or (314) 889-0572.

We look forward to seeing you June 5th at Autobahn for the full 3.56 mile Autobahn road course!

Mark Pfeffer - Lotus Ltd. Track Day Coordinator








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