From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2006 4:40 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3086

There are 9 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Re: ebay Louvre Struts or another reason to buy from a DeLorean Vendor!
From: Hank <heskin_at_dml_gmail.com>

2. Re: Backup light help.
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

3. Re: Re: Maybe Catalytic?
From: "Tom Niemczewski" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>

4. Re: Backup light help.
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

5. Re: Values
From: "Dan" <djdanwilson_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Fraudulent ebay listings
From: "Gekko_at_dml_TDS" <gekko_at_dml_flex.com>

7. FS: temp-adjusting door stuts
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

8. Re: Re: Backup light help.
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>

9. Re: Re: Values
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2006 07:00:17 -0500
From: Hank <heskin_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: ebay Louvre Struts or another reason to buy from a DeLorean Vendor!

I believe that usually happens by accident, when someone tries to force close the engine cover without releasing the latch - it buckles.
  I don't think I've ever seen an example where it was done on purpose.

-Hank
#1619

On 1/19/06, Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk> wrote:
> I've seen lots of cars where the triangular metal part of the engine 
> cover catch is bent to make it shorter and overcome the problem of not 
> being able to lift it high enough for the catch to click into place
>
> Martin





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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2006 14:46:08 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Backup light help.

On an automatic the back-up lights are controlled by the reverse/neutral switch located on the transmission. Since the bulbs were removed it is obvious this has been a known problem for some time and the P.O. just removed the bulbs to  "correct" it. Before condeming the reverse switch (which does not commonly fail) I would suspect that the wiring harness got melted on the exhaust pipe. Carefully inspect every inch of the several wires that go to the transmission from the plug on the firewall. Generally, if the damage is not severe, it can be repaired with good electrical tape. Since only your lights seem to be affected it should not be too bad. Strap-tie the wires away from all heat sources. If this is not the problem and the switch is good you could have a wiring problem elsewhere. In that case you are just going to have to follow the circuit to find the trouble.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "mugread" <roland_at_dml_d...> wrote:
>
> When I purchased my DeLorean, the backup light sockets had no light 
> bulbs in them.  Upon installing bulbs, I discovered that the lights 
> are on constantly no matter where the automatic transmission gear
>








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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2006 13:43:27 +0100
From: "Tom Niemczewski" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>
Subject: Re: Re: Maybe Catalytic?

Hi

Make sure there is no vacuum leak at the vacuum advance solenoid. It is 
bolted behind the mixture control unit, right below the fuel distributor. 
Part number 101116, parts manual page 2.4.0 component number 27. Every 
solenoid I have seen so far was leaking! 100% of them! If this part is not 
sealed it will create a vacuum leak and the vacuum advance will be below 
specs. They all leak right where the electrical connections go inside the 
housing. It is best to remove the solenoid from the car and seal around the 
connectors with oxygen sensor safe silicone. It is important to use sensor 
safe silicone because if the vapors get sucked into the engine they will 
damage the sensor and make the emissions even worst.
Good luck

Greetings from Poland!

Tom Niemczewski
vin 6149 (in Poland!)
tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl
www.deloreana.com

> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Redgee Capili" <redgee_at_dml_c...> wrote:
>>
>> Thanks David.  Tune was done about a year ago, but drove it less
> than 1000
>> miles since (been travelling).  Timing was right on - so that wasn't an
>> 




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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2006 14:54:18 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Backup light help.

Manual or Automatic? 

On a manual it's screwed into the side of the transmission on the 
driver side. Common failure part, but usually they don't work at all. 
No oil will come out if you remove the switch to replace it. 

On the Automatic its part of the multiswitch (neutral start switch) 
that is on the passenger side, held in by a bracket, has a big cable 
coming out that runs up to the junction box on the back wall of the 
engine compartment. If you just pull it out of the trans you'll lose 
about 1/2 gal of ATF unless you drain it first. This one is a bigger 
problem since the cable is molded at both ends. I've never seen one 
fail. I would think that, if this switch had failed, the car would not 
start since the switch would be indicating "reverse" all the time. Of c 
ourse they could have jumped that, so then the car would start in any 
gear. 

Dave S


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "mugread" <roland_at_dml_d...> wrote:
>
> When I purchased my DeLorean, the backup light sockets had no light 
> bulbs in them.  Upon installing bulbs, I discovered that the lights 
> are on constantly no matter where the automatic transmission gear 
> selector is set.
> 
> It is probably the switch.  Where do I find the switch?  Is the 
switch 
> part of another switch?
> 
> Please help.
> 
> Thank you,
> Roland Smith
> Vin: 6667
>









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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2006 08:04:07 -0000
From: "Dan" <djdanwilson_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Values

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, rodney rael <rodrael1_at_dml_g...> wrote:
>
> Ryan:
> 
> Well Put!!... I agree wholeheartedly. The value of the car is to drive
> it

Okay, then I guess both of those '81 AMEX gold plated museum cars hold
no value whatsoever, lol.


> and when I do at some point sell mine, it WILL get high book value due 
> to it's drivability and usefulness again due to it's drivability.

It has also better be close to cosmetically flawless, like a concours
car, as well as drivable if you realistically expect to get the NADA
High Retail Value of $29,700 for it.

I'm not attempting to knock anybody's car. The reality is, no matter
how "drivable" or mechanically solid a car is, if it's in mediocre to
poor cosmetic shape, and needs restoration, it simply not going to
bring top dollar.

Dan W.
VIN 16192
AZ-D








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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2006 07:19:24 -0800
From: "Gekko_at_dml_TDS" <gekko_at_dml_flex.com>
Subject: Fraudulent ebay listings

Just a heads-up to the group.  I keep an eye on Delorean parts listings on ebay in case something I could use pops up.  I naturally check out the cars being listed as well.  Recently there have been a rash of listings for Deloreans for sale with VERY low Buy It Now prices (from $4500 - $6600) on cars that look to be in terriffic shape.  Most of the listings offer the car to "Pre-Approved" bidders or with a "You must contact me by email at xxxx_at_dml_yahoo.com or xxxx_at_dml_msn.com ) addesses before I will consider your bid.  The auction is usually ended early because they get a "fish" on the line asking to buy the car.  There's usually a story about having family crisis or being out of the country but they are affilliated with ebay's squaretrade group insuring the payment is secure and refundable if you do not receive the vehicle in the condition described, etc. etc.  I enjoy doing the dance with these guys and turn them over to ebay's security team when they realize I didn't just fall !
 off the turnip truck and won't respond to me any longer.  The most recent one even went to the trouble of setting up a website called square-trade.ws so that they could send me emails with that address with the invoice for the car.  Of course, SquareTrade.com is ebay's high-value purchase protection group, not square-trade.ws.  Watch your backs when looking to pick up stuff cheap.  If they ask you to send money via Western Union to someone who's supposedly acting as a disinterested third party "escrow" service, RUN-don't-walk for the exit with your hand on your wallet!

Craig
VIN -07181


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2006 10:28:36 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: FS: temp-adjusting door stuts

Group,
 
Last year I bought a set of Toby Peterson's temperature compensating door  
gas struts.  Turns out I really didn't need them as I have a couple of  torsion 
bar issues to work out first.  They have not been installed and are  in 
like-new condition.
 
They are $90/pr new, would like to get $70 shipped OBO.
 
Thanks - 
Andy
 
Fargo, ND  
1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2006 11:22:42 -0500
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Backup light help.

When I first got my automatic, the reverse lights were stuck on in  
park, neutral, and reverse, and the starter would run in park,  
reverse, neutral, or drive, but not in 1 or 2.  Turned out that the  
multiswitch was physically damaged from the outside (nailed by a  
stone or something, I assume). The damage was not all that obvious,  
but replacing the switch/cable assembly cleared it all up.  So, don't  
be so sure that it isn't the switch.

--Pete Lucas
    VIN #06703


On Jan 20, 2006, at 9:54 AM, Dave Swingle wrote:

> On the Automatic its part of the multiswitch (neutral start switch)
> that is on the passenger side, held in by a bracket, has a big cable
> coming out that runs up to the junction box on the back wall of the
> engine compartment. If you just pull it out of the trans you'll lose
> about 1/2 gal of ATF unless you drain it first. This one is a bigger
> problem since the cable is molded at both ends. I've never seen one
> fail. I would think that, if this switch had failed, the car would not
> start since the switch would be indicating "reverse" all the time.  
> Of c
> ourse they could have jumped that, so then the car would start in any
> gear.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2006 08:28:56 -0800
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Values

Quick sum-up of responses:

On 1/20/06, Dan <djdanwilson_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> It has also better be close to cosmetically flawless, like a concours
> car, as well as drivable if you realistically expect to get the NADA
> High Retail Value of $29,700 for it.
>
> I'm not attempting to knock anybody's car. The reality is, no matter
> how "drivable" or mechanically solid a car is, if it's in mediocre to
> poor cosmetic shape, and needs restoration, it simply not going to
> bring top dollar.

Absolutely, Dan. I agree completely. If it's a daily driver with worn
out parts and a multitude of "little issues", it's going to get closer
to low book than anything else. However, I like to think most people
who drive their DeLoreans every day keep them in pristine condition,
as I do. Yeah, I spend more time and money on mine as I'm wearing
things out, but it's such a tiny price to pay for the privilege of
driving a literal "dream car" every day.

Marv:

> I could have spent $5K less, but I couldn't afford the time in lost
> use or potential glares from my wife every time I dipped back into
> the till to bring a different kind of car up to snuff. It was way
> easier for me to go to the well once.

See, I did things the other way around. I bought a DeLorean that was
middle of the road value wise, but paid several thousand less than
(admittedly, my rough estimate of) what it was worth. I picked up my
car with about 45k miles on it from the original owner. It had been
driven enough that, even though most parts were old, they were in good
enough shape for a 15 hour drive home. It had been maintained, not as
well as I'd have liked, but maintained nonetheless. Then I began the
process of replacing anything that either gave me a problem or that I
thought might give me a problem or things that just needed to be
improved over the original parts.

The only things I have left to address now are some minor engine &
transmission issues and a few cosmetic flaws, none of which prevent me
from driving the car to work every morning.

Your way would have saved me a lot of time but I got such a good deal
on my car I couldn't pass it up. To be honest I think I'm about even
right now on money spent vs. what the car is currently worth, so my
countless hours of time were essentially donated to the car, but
that's OK.

> Ryan, if I ever need to replace my car, God forbid, I'll make you an
> offer on yours! :)

LOL; you'll have to make the offer to my widow when I'm dead. ;-)

I say that now, but truth be told, if I came under financial
difficulties I'd part with my DeLorean in a hurry. That's another nice
thing about this car, while I don't  consider it an investment by any
stretch of the imagination, at least it's not going down in value.
It's almost like a rolling "in case stuff happens" emergency savings
account. ;-)

(disclaimer: The last statement was terrible financial advice. I don't
recommend anyone rely on a car to be your savings account! It's nice
to have it in your back pocket if life goes horribly wrong but don't
be a fool by actually depending on it.)

-Ryan


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